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Comments
I agree with you that electronics can get finicky, but so do many mechanical components, and as I said, the TL has a good history and reputation for being reliable. The standard warranty is 4 yrs/50k miles, and the extended warranty typically costs in excess of $1.5k. Depending on your tolerance for risk, the extended warranty does give you more peace of mind, but it has to be bought upfront, at a not-so-nominal cost. For those of us who intend to keep the car for a long time, an extended warranty may well be worth it. For me, I usually get a new car in 4 years, and let my wife drive my old car (usually with less than 25k miles) for a few more years. Since my wife is not tech savvy and does not care much about luxury items - she does not even listen to CD or use the heated seats or sun roof - the myriad of electronics in the TL will likely be uselss to her or appeal to her senses, other than the BT handsfree phone, which she finds practical and user friendly.
Forgive me but like my screen name indicates, I'm new to cars. What is the factory warranty on the nav? So the extended warranty covers the nav? Do extended warranty prices vary from state to state?
Vicnation-
Your OTD price is unreal. What state do you live in? I wonder if the dealerships here in So. Cal. will laugh at me if I even ask for that amount.
What is a good price for Low Jack?
Thanks for everyone's advice!
I live in NC and my local dealership didn't want to work with me at all. I called several other dealerships and asked if they would sell the car for $35,120 OTD and one took me up on it. Funny thing, they had to travel 6 hours with a flatbed to get it because they didn't have the colors I wanted in stock. Dealerships outside of the town you live will be more willing to deal with you because they don't have to pay the advertising costs to get you in the door...especially dealerships in small towns. It's a freebie for them.
I didn't haggle at all with them because I didn't want to play the game. The more you talk price with a salesperson, the more likely your set price will go up. It's a game each salesperson learns. I worked at a dealership for many years and know the game.
Salespeople are more willing to bend at the end of the month when they are trying to meet their monthly goals. You have to let the dealership make something on the car. I gave them the holdback fee and the doc fees. I figured that was enough profit for them. Others have even done better. Tax here is 3% so take that in consideration. Your tax is probably higher.
I'm here at Maryland, the lowest quote I got was 34,000 +tax. Some dealers I called said they will beat that price.
I'm going into dealer tomorrow, so probably get some more info.
Willing to pay: $34,000 (what I'm prepared to offer dealers for haggle-free business)
• Excludes MA state tax
• Includes ALL charges & fees:
o Destination/delivery
o Documentation (including MA registration & title)
o Dealer augments
o Dealer preparation
o Advertising
o etc.
Also includes these accessories:
• Wheel locks
• Splash guards
• All season floor mats
• Trunk tray
I believe this to be a fair offer - the dealer will earn full holdback. Accessories + MA reg & title will be a wash.
Thanks for your input!
Tell them you want them to match the best price you found and I'm sure they'll bite especially towards the end of the month. Figure out what your tax will be and calculate your out-the-door price. Use that final price to deal.
Sticker for 07 TL Navi $36,795.00 The out the door before sales tax and tags is $35,777.45. This dealer likes to play with the number 7. Then you add sales tax and tag to that number. They also like to play with finance numbers and quote you at a 8.50% rate so the lease looks better even though it has some extra money added into the figure. What is it about some dealers who think you are stupid and can't do simple math. I know how to figure a lease so if they add to the numbers I can find it. Funny thing is they never understand the numbers themselves because the computer did it.
Salespeople like to use a lot of numbers because they know the attrition rate of the customer when more numbers are used. The more numbers are thrown around, the more likely the customer will be willing to cave.
At one point in the negotiation, I was tired of haggling with numbers and I had alsready caved some from my set price...we were still $700 apart. During one of the many trips the salesman took to his "manager", I paused and thought, this isn't worth it. I shouldn't be willing to give ground when they are still making a fair profit. When he came back with another unacceptable offer, I told him I was through and walked out. I got back home and called about 5 dealerships I found within 100 miles and told them the price I was willing to pay (which was lower than the set price I originally went into the dealership with). Two of them jumped at it. I took the closer (in distance) of the two.
Don't be afraid to walk out and don't get caught in the numbers game...you will lose.
It also might do you well to get your financing somewhere else. You can probably find a local credit union that will give you a good rate.
I am not familiar with the "holdback" concept. Is this like a volume discount for the dealer? What amount is this typically and are the dealers getting it for the typeS also?
Great advice on the extended warrantee. Most people don't know that the price is negotiable, so I appreciate you listing the base price. Do you know if these warrantees are transferable if you sell the car?
Also, what $ over invoice did you end up paying on your deal (assuming that you're paying full price for the license and doc fees)?
Thanks for your help!
Anyway, I went to two dealers within two days. The first I haggled down to invoice ($35,600 before TTL), however they weren't willing to give me an extra $500 on my trade in value so I bid them farewell. I called a second dealership and told them my situation, and they were much nicer - immediately offered the same invoice price and promised to beat the deal on the trade... I ended up getting $600 extra on the trade.
anyway, with the money factor of 0.00137 and resid value of 57% for 15000 miles, the lease deal was too good... Instead of purchasing i leased and my car payments are actually $250 less than what i was paying on the bmw. My monthly is $529.00 with taxes.
Acura's leases are excellent (i've leased three cars and have taught many friends about leases).... gap insurance is included, the acquisition fee was built in, no security deposit, and there is a $1500 damage allowance at the end of the lease term . Although bmw does have attractive leases on certain models during certain months, they tend to charge a "MACO" fee, acquisition, and security deposit so your out - the - door payment is still high for a 0 down lease.
In the last 3 years I've now have purchased/leased a 2006 g35 coupe 6mt and a 2006 325i. After i've driven the tl type s for awhile I think I might become an expert in the "Entry level sport sedan" forum discussion. All i need is the lexus is 350.
Good luck to all that are looking to purchase/lease - if you are looking to lease soon, you should get in on the current lease deals now - you can get a tl type s for possibly less than $500/month with absolutely 0 down, only the first month's payment.
The dealership always has to make something on a car. Right now, apart from any other factory to dealer incentives, the dealership receives a 3% of MSRP "holdback fee" from the factory for every unit sold. This is in addition to any profit they may make over the invoice fee. 3% equates to over $1,000. Usually, dealers won't give up anything from their holdback but a few here have been able to dip into that a little. Both Honda and Acura have the 3% holdback fee on all their vehicles so the Type S would be included.
The price I was willing to pay included the invoice, doc fees, and the TTL. That gave the dealership a fair profit and I got what I feel was a fair deal. Ultimately, I think I paid $9 over invoice before TTL and doc fee. Others on this site have even done a little better than me.
As for the AcuraCare warranties, they are transferrable for a $50 fee. Otherwise, if you sell the vehicle, get in an accident, get rid of it for any reason, or just wish to cancel it, you are entitled to get back the pro-rated balance ...whenever you wish to cancel. I believe you get an initial grace period where you can get 100% back from the warranty should you change your mind after the initial purchase but I'm not sure how long that might be. The cost for the 8 year/120k mile warranty was raised $100 in January to $1,415. They make these periodic adjustments once or twice a year from what I understand. The Finance manager doesn't want you to know that this price is negotiable and they gave me a hard time until they knew I wouldn't budge. $100 profit is better than no profit and it's not like these things are sitting on shelves and taking up inventory space.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
On a related note, does anyone happen to know if there are any factory to dealer incentives being offered for the TypeS (or scheduled for the near future)?
I would have to believe that, espacially for Honda/Toyota products, that the odds are severely stacked in the house's favor re: extended warranties. I recently owned a first model year Chrysler product, odds would seem to be in favor of an expensive out of warranty repair? I kept the 300M for 2.5 years/31,000 miles out of warranty and no failures whatsoever. I won! Used the extended warranty $$$ I kept invested as down paymemt on my '05 TL. Needless to say, no extended warranty.
Having written all this, if you can't sleep at night without the extended, by all means as vicnations advises, negotiate the price!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Car: 2007 TL base w/ Nav (carbon bronze, taupe)
Accessories: wheel locks, trunk tray, color matched splash guards, all season mats
OTD Cost: $36,185 (includes TTL of $1,770); Not including TTL: $34,415
This site was invaluable in helping me get a reasonable deal, many thanks.
Thanks
A
I agreed on a deal TL w/navi for 35170 OTD.
how does it sound?
I'm also in Princeton, and always have my MDX serviced at Bridgewater Acura. That's a great price you paid for the TL-S. Would you mind PM me you experience for your TL-S purchase? Thanks.
Here in MD it is 5% + 210 + 99
hopefully get down 100 or lil more when i actually nego with cash.
On the road price.
I'm in the NY metro area.
I am planning to buy a 2007 TL no nav this month (and can wait until last day of the month). First, Edmunds shows invoice price for TL (auto) without Nav as $30,848. Someone in this thread had mentioned an invoice on it as $31,500 or so. What is the correct invoice price?
Second, what's a reasonable deal? Considering the invoice of $30,848 makes their cost $29,923 (with the 3% holdback-correct?) and everything I've read so far, it seems I might be able to offer invoice + TTL or am I crazy? I live in NJ and have easy access to Princeton Acura, Brigewater Acura, and Langhorne Acura.
And my last question is what is best way to proceed? Do I simply e-mail the dealerships with my offer and see what comes back? Do I visit and do it in person?
Again, any comments would be appreciated.
When I picked up my Acura in November, the saleswoman told me that in order for them to get credit for the sale in a particular month the car had to be delivered before the end of the month. Anyone out there know whether it's true?