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the email you got sounds like it's either financing OR rebate. anyone heard of dealers turning around both to the customer?
also, what are some of you getting charged for dealer fees? the fees i was getting charged after a decent quote seemed a bit spiked.
Reasons for choosing TL
ES350 -- Reliability is not as good as it used to be according to owners reviews.
Costs about $5000 more when compatibly equipped.
G35 ----- Reliability is not as good as TL
I am not a boy racer so RWD and more power don’t attract me.
Leaving in Indiana, FWD is more practical.
Costs about $3500 more when compatibly equipped.
link title is good place to find MSRP & Invoice for cars.
TL Base -------- MSRP $34,440 Invoice $31,750
TL w/ Nav ------ MSRP $36,940 Invoice $33,998
TL Type-S ----- MSRP $38,940 Invoice $35,832
*Price includes Destination Charge
Currently, there is $2000 manufacture to dealer incentive only on purchase. Not on lease. Special financing is only available in select region. You have to ask dealer to find out about special financing. So here is what you should expect to pay when you are shopping for 2008 Acura TL.
In large competitive market ( Bay Area California, La Area California and Houston, Dallas Texas etc...). If you have more than 6 to 7 or more Acura dealers in your area it is a large competitive market. Invoice less $2000(dealer incentive) less $500 to $1000 (dealer is more willing to share their 2% hold back). Bottom line is go for $2500 ~ $3000 below invoice.
In medium size market (4 or 5 Acura dealers in your area) Invoice less $2000(dealer incentive) less $300 to $700 (dealer is some what willing to share their 2% hold back). Bottom line is go for $2300 ~ $2700 below invoice.
In small size market (3 or less Acura dealers in your area) Invoice less $2000(dealer incentive) less $0 to $300 (dealer is not willing to share their 2% hold back). Bottom line is go for $2000 ~ $2300 below invoice.
*Above target pricing applies to most shoppers, but individual bargaining skills, trade-in (give you less for your trade-in and lower the price on new car or vice-versa) and financing (shopper with bad credit score, dealers love people with bad credit because they see it as a chance to make big profit) could make the difference in pricing.
* Try not to take the car that’s been sitting in the dealer lot for more then 2 months the max. You can find built month and year on the sticker on the inside of your driver’s door jam. Dealers want to move out old inventory, especially in smaller markets where turn over ratio is not as good as in larger markets. Unless dealer is willing to give you a substantial discount for it don’t take cars with over 50 mi and/or built in more than 2 months ago. After a test drive write down the VIN of the car you picked and make sure this VIN is what you see on the contract before you sign.
Dealer add-on protections (leather protection, clear coat paint protection, under body protection etc . are never recommended. No matter how dealer sweet talk you into it, it either not needed or way over priced. If you really want them check out your local detail shops. You could find better ones for less then half the cost.
Dealer installed accessories -- Don’t take it unless you could have the dealer throw it in for free at the price you negotiated without installed accessories. Bottom line is don’t buy any accessories from dealer unless it’s totally free. If you want to buy any genuine Acura Accessories check out these sites. You could find it for a lot less then at your dealership.
link title
link title
link title
Dealer Documentation Fees -- Unfortunately for shoppers, there is no set price for this fee. You just have to visit different dealership in your area to find out what the reasonable documentation fee in your market is for yourself. I’ve read as low as $50 to as high as $500. It just varies by market. If dealer A is charging $100, dealer B is charging $125 and dealer C is charging $135 for documentation fee you know that the reasonable documentation fee in your market is $100.
Check out this for your information.
link title
Other Charges -- Do Not Pay. you shouldn't have to pay anything other then Tax, Title, Registration, Documentation Fees, Extended Warrenty (if bought one) and Tire Tax. If you see anything else on bill of sales dealer is just trying what ever it can to make more profit on you.
Extended warranty – You have to make the decision on this yourself. I didn’t buy one because when I decided to buy Acura TL reliability was a big factor. I don’t anticipate TL will have enough break downs to recoup what I spend on extended warranty. If you decide to buy one only buy Acura Care Extended Warranty (this service is provided and backed by Acura and good in any Acura dealer in the US) DO NOT buy third party extended warranty as they could be pain in the rear when you actually need to use your warranty. Followings are places where you could buy legit Acura Care Extended Warranty online at fair price. It’s honored at any Acura dealer in the US weather you buy it online or from dealership.
link title
link title
link title
* Acura will not allow online sales of Acura Care Extended Warranty beginning April 1.
Tax, Title and registration fee – This is about the only thing that gets straight forward in car buying. Everyone pays same set amount that applies to your vehicle in your area. Unless you live in same county or city everyone pays different amount for this. Dealers would rarely play games on this because Uncle Sam is watching.
Here is what I paid for 2008 Acura TL w/Nav
Price of Vehicle ------ $ 31,498.00 ( Includes Destination Charge )
Tax ----------------------- $ 1,889.88 ( 6% Indiana Tax Rate )
Tire Tax ----------------- $ 1.25
Documentary Fee --- $ 99.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total ...................... $ 33,488.13 ( I wrote the check for this amount )
* I had dealer throw in color matched splash guard at no charge.
* I bought the car built in 02/08. Dealer wanted me to take the car built in 09/07 with same color and 25 mi on it, but I said NO.
* In Indiana, dealer doesn’t collect Title & Registration Fee. Buyer has to go to DMV(it’s called BMV in Indiana) for Title and Registration on new car purchase.
Hope this helps folks who are looking for new car. ^.^
Just letting you know my transaction. I just got a new 08 TL w/nav for 31.5K a week ago. I took the 2k dealer cash over the 2.9% finance they offered. My total out of pocket cost came to a little under 33.4k. I went do woodfiend acrua in woodfield IL. they were very nice!
I also have a question that i hope one of you know... it said in the review that you can have the climate function displayed on the nav screen. does anyone know how to do this? I have yet to figure it out! Maybe I'm just slow.. but can someone please let me know? Thanks!
What is current tax rate for vehicle purchase in Schaumburg, IL. I though it was 6.5% at least. You said you paid $ 31,500 for the TL w/Nav and total came out to under $33,400.
Price of car ------- $31,500.00
Tax ------------------- $ 2,047.50 ( Tax Rate 6.5% )
Title ------------------ $ ?
Registration ------- $ ?
Document Fee --- $ ?
---------------------------------------------
$ 33,547.50 ( before title, registration and doc. Fee)
Without factoring in title, registration and document fee (because I have no clue how much you paid for these) it’s already over your claimed out of pocket total of little under 33.4K. Can you share your secrete on how you manage to do it? This could help others in your area.
Thnaks.
I have to wonder if you drove a crappy TL-S or something like that, the shift gates on mine a slick. In fact when I first test drove the TL-S I thought second gear was neutral and was trying to pull it farther back LOL. MY 98 Maxima traveled twice as far in the gates, it took some getting used to. The clutch is amazing in comparison as well, easy to predict and modulate, I can use the throttle a lot more on take off than my Maxima could. We had really nasty weather in Dallas/FW today and the TL-S is amazingly stable on wet roads, the other drivers were really pissing me off...they were sooo slow! For straight line freeway in inclement weather the FWD has an advantage all it's own: If you keep the throttle on, it's really hard for the rear end to get out of line, or stay out. Let off the gas and the opposite is instantly true. :surprise: When hitting troughs and puddles, the FWD just pulls the car through, even if the rear end steps out, since the front wheels are pulling forward, the rear end tracks back in line. I used this idea to hilarious results on the traffic circle last year when it snowed hard. I was bored and there was no traffic so I set the parking brake and drifted around the circle with the rear and dragging like a wake board. You can easily modulate the drift with the throttle and if you let off completely you get a nice 180. I recommend that anyone who sees snow covered road try this in a parking lot or empty street, it's great practice. Most of the wrecks I saw in the snow last year were single vehicle, the darn Texans panic when they see ice and let off the gas or slam on the brakes, then they go flying. It's counter-intuitive to the non-performance driver to stay on the throttle, and the news media doesn't help by telling everyone to slow down. Anyway, that was a nice tangent! LOL.
I am in the market for a TL-S in the Illinois area, I am going to use your post to negotiate a good price.
What has worked for me very well in the past was to e-mail multiple dealers in your area/s and have them compete for your business. Just bought a Lexus 08RX 350 for $2k under invoice using this technique~!
Enjoy your TL, its at such a sweet spot, luxurios and sporty at the same time, very few cars that can compete with it at its price point!
Purchased 2008 TL w/NAVI from Springfield Acura for:
Price: $31,000 including Destination
MV: $389
Doc: $258
Prep: $400
Etch: $188 (Don't really need but didn't haggle over it)
NJ Tire Tax: $7.50
NJ Tax: 7%
Contact John Freudenberger, Internet Sales.
Wasn't a terrible buying experience (since I have low expectations) but three things really irked me.
1. I sent an email with all the exact details of the purchase conditions including the price & financing. During the financing part of the buying process, it was 'conveniently" overlooked that I had stated that 2.9% as the finance rate.
2. Which leads to my next issue, they kept urging me to give them the down payment when I hadn't received or signed the contract. Who the hell in their right mind signs over thousands of dollars for a downpayment without seeing or agreeing to a contract?!?!?!? Give me $K now and oh by the way, the price and financing rate just changed. Maybe I am naive and this is the standard practice in the car industry but as a manager of million dollar contracts, it seems ludicrous. As it turned out, that's when I was notified that the agreed to 2.9% financing rate was not available. I still got a decent rate but I was more upset about what I thought was bad business....whether it was intentional or not.
3. I was prepared to speak to multiple people thanks to Edmunds. Amazing how many of the story details are true. I learned to ignore everything they say or do and just focus on what matters, the details of the sale (Must Read - "Confessions of a Cars Salesman" - http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/42962/article.html)
However, why the hell did it take 3 hours for a car purchase when all the terms of the deal were clearly stated in my email. Oh by the way, bring in extra copies of any and all communication.....they steal your copy and never give it back. I should've been out of there in 1.5 hours tops.....even with the negotiation on the financing. If it weren't for the great price, I'd walked out after an hour.
All in all, I'm very happy with the price and financing terms. I'd give my experience with Springfield Acura a "C+".....the salesmen were somewhat friendly (except for the big shot) but the whole car buying game is ridiculous. Hope this helps you potential buyers.
PowerAcura in Torrance, CA. Fleet and Internet Department. They emailed the price and encouraged me to shop it around. Shopped it at two largest dealerships and they didn't counter
No pressure from Finance guy to purchase add ons. Great experience.
Apparently the cost on the base model auto populated when the lady typed it in, and she had to look up info on the TL-S. This led me to believe that the base model was correct, and I probably should have had to pay even more on the TL-S. So I shut up and accepted it.
Can any of you here from Indiana share what you paid for your tag? If I had a reference to go by for either vehicle I would have an idea whether I saved money or overpaid.
Thanks!
Got my beauty 08 TL with NAV Ext RBP Int parchment
Emailed almost all dealers in and around orange county ,quite amazed to see dealers so aggresive.To keep it short Metro Acura had the straight quote of $30,646+TTL but they wouldnt do the .9% APR.Finally got the TL from Sierra Acura for $33,995 OTD .Even better they slipped in trunk tray,splash guards,wheel locks and all weather mats along with the .9%.Wier Canyon would match the rate but refused the PRO PAC and Cerritos wouldnt go more than $32,450 OTD.It could easily have been my best car buying experience but for the finance manager at Sierra who tried to bump up my apr and sell me the extended warranty :mad: .they only agreed after i started to walkaway.such an aggresive pricing and the .9% there could never be a time as good as this.The worst they can do is sell the car at a loss.buyers bonanza all the way :shades:
I've been following this forum for a while and in the market now for a base 08 TL w/o Nav. There is some invaluable information in this forum and I hope to share my buying experience once it's all said and done.
Based on all the posts here, it seems I should be looking at Invoice-2K as a base price for negotiations. Can anyone confirm that?
Anyone has experience with dealerships in the Boston area?
Thanks much.
Service-wise I give A of B a C+. Nice folks, but my two warranty issues (rattles) each took two trips to fix. I can't believe they didn't know they hadn't fixed the rattles the first time when they released the car to me. Oh, and after one service, they washed the car but then parked it under a tree and the birds did a bit of target practice...!
Note that their "Doc Fee" ($197) included "free" lifetime state inspections.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
So, This TL type S Blue, w/ Sticker $38,000 ish, consider it
-2007 Model
-5000+ miles on it, not registered before.
-no choice of color
-no low finance available(08 models has special finance)
-2009 model is due with in a year
-bad test drive experience
how much should i aim if i want to buy it? i know the TMV of a 2008 TL-S is $35,000ish.
btw: insist on taking a drive to the freeway or high way, it has to be driven more than 3 blocks to get a feel on the car.
my 2 cent.
I do agree, though, that this is a used car and can't be considered new. Honestly, I'll be surprised if they'll sell it to you for its true value, assuming they won't be able to apply any dealer incentive cash.
Look at like this: you will almost certainly be able to buy a brand new TL-S for around $33,000, where you will have the full warranty and be able to get exactly what you want. How much do you need to save on this car for it to be worth it? Two thousand? Three thousand?
I wouldn't pay anything near new price on it, but a lot of it depends on how much that 5000 miles means to you.
oh he told me briefly that "low" means "low 30s"
But what worries me more than anything else is the test drive. If he wouldn't let you drive the car more than three blocks or on the freeway, I wouldn't touch that car. Sounds like they're hiding something.
I loved the 08 TL in a test drive, but I don't want to pay anything out of pocket except regular inception fees (Bank/Aquisition, documentation, DMV). I also want to include my tax payments into the montly calculation (Is this a good idea? I don't want to loose all my tax money if the car is stolen or totaled).
The dealer is telling me that the best he can do for me (after negotiation) is $405 per month...0 down...taxes included or $370 with taxes upfront. Car cost is $31,500 according to the dealer and has a 56% expected residual.
Is this a deal? Or can I get better? Any speculation whether deals will be better or worse in April?
Thanks.
They also wouldn't meet me on the trade-in of an '05 TL w/45K miles in excellent condition (they went up to $18K from $17K and I wanted $19.6K), so I was $3,600 upside-down versus the expectation I had of getting what I wanted for the trade plus the $2K difference at .9%. So I had to walk.
Long questions short....is anybody getting $2K under invoice with .9% financing on a base '08 TL? Is $19.6K asking too much for an '05 TL in excellent condition with 45K miles on it (I just had the brakes done but it's probably going to need tires pretty soon)?
Thanks to all for this excellent resource.
2008 TL Base with Navigation, Polish Metal Metallic and Taupe interior.
Edmunds listed MSRP: $36,940
Edmunds listed Invoice:$33,998
Edmunds listed TMV:$33,631
Sale price: $33,500 + 7% FL Tax
Title, license, doc fees: $599
Down Payment: $3000
Trade-in: $1500 (2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES)
Monthly Payment for 72 months at 5.75%
$525.04
Not the greatest deal, but a decent one. Under invoice is always a good deal. I probably could it haggle some more for $32,500, but I chose not to.
2008 TL-S
Carbon Bronze with black interior (had to get it from Cincinnati, my color choice wasn't on the lot)
$34,500 plus TTL
5.65% interest on the loan
Trade-in: 2001 Chrysler 300M ($5000 trade, had to push them for this. They still swear they gave me $500 more than it was worth).
I hope this helps others with your negotiations. I know this site helped me.
Thanks
Thanks a lot
anyone here think it is POSSIBLE to find a slightly used 2007 TL-S.. say one with betwen 15-25k miles on it and get the dealer down to $20-23k?
I see that trade in on one is down in that range. it makes me think that some dealer out there...lets say a Toyota or other NON ACURA dealer that takes an 07 TL-S on trade and rapes the seller..they pay 20-21k for it....now they are trying to flip it and get rid of it. the car market sucks and is slow as all hell..
i show up and offer to buy it on the spot for 22 or 23k. if they don't take my offer, I walk.
if I can find an 07 TL-S that was traded in, and the dealer hosed the seller...I bet $5 I can find a dealer that will sell it at what they paid just to get it off their lot.
buying a new 08 for $32k or 33k is a nice deal. buying a one year old one at a 10,000 discount would be a stellar deal.
:confuse:
We test drove a TL last weekend and fell in love. The only hesitation is that the model look will change a lot this summer as the 2009 is reportedly going to change significantly. We keep our vehicles 5 years or so (this will replace a 2003 Camry XLE that was loaded even nav back then). A little fear that this model will look real old in 2013 when we go to sell it. I am assuming the $2000 dealer incentive is because of the model change and the model change will be significantly more expensive (AWD, etc,). If it is a lot more money the new model will probably be out of our price range anyway.
Is this a correct assumption or will their be dealer incentives this summer on the newer style?
One of my thoughts is not to haggle on financing and just pay off the note within the first month or two. That way the dealer can make some margin on selling my note. Does anyone know if Acura financing has any pre-payment penalties? Are there any additional costs to create the finance paperwork. I realize a dealer has to make some money somewhere and I want to negotiate the cleanest deal I can - Then sell my Camry afterwards in the 30 days following (we get temp plates here in NH). Have sold many cars on Ebay and CL, etc so no fear there. My thought process is to attempt a deal for a TL with Nav at $2500 - $3000 under invoice (is this possible) and then to list the add-ons I want at the prices I have found online - from links provided here. I figure the lowest online price must still provide a profit for the seller and then consider them all installed for free (not sure if that is realistic). The accessories we want are: Wing Spoiler, Moonroof Visor, body side and door trim moldings, splash guards, trunk trays and wheel locks and an actual platinum warranty from Acura for 7 years, 100,000 miles (find this useful when reselling the car at the 5 year mark (camry has the typical 60K on it for example).
Realistically - what charges after the below invoice deal can the dealer legitamately add to the price - destination? there is no tax in NH and the title is probably pretty inexpensive. Any thoughts on my approach? Will probably email it to the dealers in New England and see who bites...