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Comments
http://www.bnsf.com/cws/tracing/index.html
Simply enter the last 8 digits of your VIN# and you can see where your truck is at any given moment and know it's estimated delivery date.
My truck status went from:
'as of 10/9, scheduled build week of 10/25, delivery of 11/8'
to
'as of 10/18, locked in, scheduled build week of
10/25, delivery of 11/8'
to
'as of 10/28, scheduled build week of 10/28,
arrival of 11/15'
Seemed weird that it would say as of 10/28 when I called on 10/23... But the real meaning of the message is: The actual date of build is 10/28..
to
(just checked today 10/30)
'as of 10/29, truck is released from the plant, with arrival of 11/14'
I have to tell ya'll this info, cause my wife really doesn't care to hear anything more about trucks, and I have to tell someone..
Please advise.
I was also told that the camper package rather than snow plow package without electronic shift on the fly would allow me the best personal plowing option both cost and function wise. As long as I put a reasonable size plow on my vehicle - no big V blade, I would get more for my money, not viotate the warranty, and have a better plowing situation for my personal use. I was told while electronic shift on the fly is an acceptable option with the snowplow package, his personal way to go would be to avoid it if I decide to plow. One year earlier another dealer told me that in checking with Ford they recommended the manuel locking hubs with the snowplow package - that is, they recommended not getting the electronic shift on the fly option.
Please advise.
Reasons for me to do it myself:
- I feel this is a trivial piece of equipment that doesnt increase/decrease the value of the truck.
- It would be a hassle for me to leave my truck while they replace the console.. Or even to wait an hour or so each time..
- They're going to replace it with the same unit that will likely fail..
I'm sure there will be enough warranty claims without mine added to the mix.
When I hear that ford has a true fix, maybe I'll look into having it replaced..
----------
Tom18,
Although I've heard of folks waiting some time for truck with V10 + lariat.. 6-8months seems a bit excessive.. Although I can't confirm/deny the 'regional' allocation story, we know for a fact that theres also a 'dealer specific' allocation as well.
So, if the region is limited, its even more important to use a dealer that has a larger allocation for the region. Some questions you can ask, (not sure if they'll answer you).
a. How many total SD's are you allocated for this month.
b. What percentage of the total are alloted for V10
c. What percentage of the total are alloted for lariat
An allotment sheet a dealer showed me all their allotment breakdown categories, (engine, DRW, Lariat), which the dealer only alloted 3% of 12 trucks/month for V10. as 3% of 12 is less than 1, the dealer would have to wait 2 months just to have allotment for the V10 and get the order accepted.. (they had 3% V10, 3% 5.4L, 94% PSD), I went to a different dealer..
Go to the city and look some more..
235/85 r16 calcs out to be 31.7
265/75 r16 calcs out to be 31.6
It also makes sense to me that they would be close, otherwise the factory would have to tweak the speedodmeter depending on which tire was selected.
http://www.azstarnet.com/~zil/suburb/gearcalc.htm
It migh help when comparing different tire sizes. I am sure there are others but this has several calculators all in one place.
http://www.kbb.com/carfax.html
If you like the truck, you should be able to get it for a good price as this dealer can't possibly sell it as a 'new' truck..
truck. I guess I have a real phobia about buying
a vehicle with only a few thousand miles on it. I always wounder why would someone sell or trade in a vehicle thats hardly used? Unless its a repo and you can find out for sure I wouldent trust it.
It could be a lemon that could become your worst nightmare, or like you already said, could be stolen, salvaged, etc.
Just to much to worry about for the few thousand you might save.I have had opertunitys in the past for what looked like good deals, but my phobia got the best of me and I passed on them and bought new vehicles.
I know some people make great deals on slightly used vehicles, but I dont think its worth the risk.I would rather wait the eight weeks for my
F350 then end up with a nightmare.
John
4X4 Lariat, How much over invoice did you pay?
I'm not brand loyal. Please give me an object view only. No Ford or Dodger lovers needed, please. Please backup your viewpoints. Thanks.
I have never once so much as called or bothered the dealer or the vopc to follow the progress of the truck ordered only 6 weeks ago. I am as excited as anyone about receiving the new truck, but I have never seen so many people whine about when their truck is or isn't arriving... I wish this site would get back to being of a more technical nature, after all we are grown adults... right?
I wonder how long it would take for the dealer to repo your truck if you didn't get him a new check? Just kidding, of course. Once again, it sounds like a dealer error saved someone some bucks. A difference of 1/2% on a five year loan will save you about $5-$10 per month.....about a 12-pak. I got lucky with my interest rate.
My loan is at 7.9%. Now before you say that the rate isn't so great, I guess should explain that it's a RV loan. I wrapped my camper and truck up in the same loan.
They predicted clear skies today. Ha! It's snowing something awesome. We've already got several inches on the ground this morning. Big fluffy white flakes....
Ashewitt... the wealth of info on the board... thanks for that url, we'll save it for future reference.
Paull1... "bucked" means all parts are on the line for build. your truck ought to be born today or tomorrow & your next update (after 5pm on the 3rd) ought to be "released".
Crazyelvis... what the hell? you've definitely had a rather "aggravating" experience! and now more of the same. you just "fell-through-the-cracks" over there I suppose. but what are you gonna do? how many times in life have you had no choice but to depend upon others even though you're inwardly thinking that this may be a bad idea? you'd "think" that when you told them to cash the thing promptly that you REALLY mean't it). they just didn't make any exceptions out of their normal routine (and they SHOULD have because you "warned" them about the date). unreal. well, you're driving around "free" today, but the higher rate will more than make up for it (& they ought to pay your trade-in off NOW!) it's their screwup, not yours. my significant has a "theory" that I do not wholly agree with. it's this: "whatever you wish to happen, will happen." I don't agree with it because I really don't believe you "wish" for these kinds of things to happen. I slipped & fell the other day & I wasn't even thinking about it to happen & I certainly did not "wish" for it to happen. but it happened, anyway. you take what steps you can without getting all paranoid about it... but "things" do happen regardless.... to everyone. but we can only sympathize when they do & so please keep us abreast.
lewac....Mike at Gator Ford (the dude you sit down to pay and do extra waranties with) did not call me back today or fax me his credit app for the 6.9% loan. If my trade in was payed off I would be quite happy. He could take all the time he wanted......but I would like my trade payed off....since the payment was due on the 19th of Oct. And it is acruing (sp?) intrest at $2.30 a day.....which I am NOT going to pay!!!!! Oh well...if something can go wrong it will!!! Still very happy with the truck.....last fill up....60% HWY 41% City......13.3MPG......just seeing if you are all paying attention!
What kind of "extra" hidden cost have you guys been hit with when you have gone to pick up your "BEAST"? I've heard of advertising, some type of processing fees. Is this a legitimate cost to the consumer or a way to squeeze money out of us? I'm trying to figure out what is hype and what is honest.
Thanx,
David
The fee for gas to provide you with a full tank is legit.
Taxes, tags and title are legit.
I paid a $40 documentation fee. The only reason I paid it was because I bought my truck in another state. The $40 was related to the dealer having to prepare special paperwork so I wouldn't get hit with his local sales tax (I paid my local sales tax via my hometown DMV). Any documentation fees are added on by the dealer, not Ford. Some are legit. Some are not. I felt the $40 was legit for my transaction. If it was $100, I might have had a different opinion. If you buy it locally, there shouldn't be any doc fees.
I've also seen drop-ship fees. That's when you buy the truck out-of-state and have it delivered to a dealer near you. The receiving dealer charges a prep fee. Your selling dealer often negotatiates this (or it's a standard fee. I'm not sure which) and pays the receiving dealer and then charges you. Usually, they factor in something for their time. You have to decide if it's excessive. This fee obviously doesn't apply if you buy it locally.
Quick summary.....if you buy locally, Ford advertising and gas are the only charges that are not added on by the dealer (plus tax, title and tags). Everything else is negotiable.
hudson5- Advertising and fuel are the only two legitimate "extra" costs that Ford dealers will charge you. Both are printed on the factory invoice. Advertising (FDAF or Ford Dealers Advertising Fund) is based on regional associations so it will vary in different parts of the country. But in the long run, who cares what a dealer calls the charges above the invoice price? The deal I made for my truck was for $200 above the factory invoice price; for all I cared that $200 could have been labeled "profit", or "document prep charge", or "salary for the guy out back that washes vehicles after they're serviced". My point is, make your deal for a set amount above factory invoice, ask to be shown the FACTORY INVOICE, and don't pay a cent more than what you've bargained for, no matter what the dealer says any "extra" charge is for when you go to pick up your truck.
Dave
I agree with crazyelvis and lewac. In fact your post had less SuperDuty content than most. Quit clogging up our forum with your whining..
laura31,
I'm not an expert with putting larger tires on trucks, but I think as long as you don't go crazy with the tiresize, (stay 33" or under), I think the 3.73 ratio will work for you when the truck is empty. Who knows, you might even squeak a few more hiway mpg out of it with the slightly larger tires..
Tell me there is less oil.....those *astards are just producing less...although this country has soooo much gas/crude/oil in reserve that an OPEC slowdown on production should not reflect a 34 cent a gallon increase in a year. New topic.... Glorbal Oil Manufacture and Distribution Theory...anyone interested????!!!! ha ha.....
And thanx lewac and bess....It would come as a suprise to my wife that someone would agree with me though!!! And I try to put at least on technical thing in every post so I stay on the topic......Today it is GAS.....tomorrow who knows?????!!!!!!!
Sounds like you are the one whineing. You are lucky to have gotten your truck in only eight weeks, some people have waited that long just to get a build date!
Maybe your truck wasent anything great for you so you didnt mind waiting.
I for one have ordered what I concider to be my dream truck I have wanted one like it for years.
And I am having a hard time waiting for it. I like to come here and hear about other people like me going through the waiting game, it makes the wait a little easyer. If that makes me a whiner so be it!
WHINE! WHINE! WHINE!
John
I purchased the v-10 but was wondering how the PSD buyers justified the extra $3,400 cost over the v-10. If you use an average of 12 mpg for the v-10 and an average of 16 mpg for the PSD and a cost of $1.16 per gal. I came up with the following.
If you drive 1,000 per month the fuel savings would be 24.16 per month. The monthly payment would be an extra 82.21 on 3,400 @7.5% for 48 mos.
The total extra cost would be 3,946 including interest. You would also have extra cost on insurance and on personal property taxes.
If you drive 12,000 a year it would take you 13.5 years to recoup the 3,946.
If you invested the 3400 in a mutual fund that returned 15%, you would have 5,946 after 4 yrs, over 22,000 in 13.5 yrs. I realize that if you sold in 4 yrs you would recoup from 40-45% of your investment-1,360 to 1530.
I have not towed with mine yet but according to carterw @ #349 the v-10 does quite well. So why not put that extra money on retirement or another toy such as an atv,pwc, or motorcycle.