Partially true - the vast majority of the parts are electronic and the electronic components are powered up whenever the car is running even if no disk is playing. If we assume that all of the drives have the same or a similar MTBF then more drives means you are more likely to experience a failure before the MTBF. I suspect that "usage" likely means "power on hours" and not "disk playing hours" although a duty cycle for disk play would likely be part of the MTBF calculation for each of the drives.
Engine does not shutdown as you walk away. The car will chime to let you know that you are walking away with the engine running, because it lost the signal of the Intelligent key. But the car will keep running (it should). The idea behind the intelligent key is simply to relieve you from getting a key to unlock the doors, start the engine, open the trunk, etc, but it's not meant at controlling the car automatically based on whether the key is nearby the vehicle or not.
CD & DVD units are powered on, but mechanically stopped until a disc is required to be read, exactly like the CD-ROM/DVD units on a PC. Since failures are almost always mechanical with these units, we should be able to watch plenty of DVD and listen to CDs for a long time before these units crack up.
I am from Queens, too. You should check out salerno in NJ, a bit out of the way but very good pricing and nice people to deal with. I ordered my M45 sport with everything from them last month. I also went to Brooklyn and Park Ave in NJ. I spoke with guys at Ramsey but at least on the phone and by email they are much more expensive than everybody else I spoke with.
CD & DVD units are powered on, but mechanically stopped until a disc is required to be read, exactly like the CD-ROM/DVD units on a PC. Since failures are almost always mechanical with these units, we should be able to watch plenty of DVD and listen to CDs for a long time before these units crack up.
My insurance guy is a good friend of mine--he is using th 05 Q45 as a guideline--I live in NW Ohio and have a perfect driving record so the cost is very low for full coverage.
I saw the crimson red in the book and found it 60 miles away. It is a dark red, almost a maroon when it's not sunny outside. However, when it is sunny the crimson red almost looks like a candy-apple red and WOW! I love the red color and have zero regrets in choosing it.
I am sure that you'd like the crimson red much more than the blue--but hey, it's your car and just make sure you look at both of them in the near-dark or a cloudy day and then look at both of them in the bright sunlight--that'll help you decide.
I think Infiniti "suggests" premium, but its not required as on the V8. I'm pretty sure the V6 can take 87, but wether that will result in any power and efficiency loss in M35 guise, dont know.
Don't know about M, but on my 94 Altima, 96 Maxima and 02 QX4, I tried 87 and 93 so many times. I found virtually no difference in terms of MPG, acceleration, idle smoothness, whatever. Even if there is a little difference, I think my driving style variation will easily overwrite it.
So many times of comparison made me bored, and I use 87 99% of time.
being as though i work for nissan and not infiniti, i cant be 100% sure of this, however all of the vehicles with the 3.5L V6 in nissan's lineup recommend premium fuel (91 octane). it won't hurt the engine if you choose to put in 87, however it will reduce fuel economy and horsepower, and in the end may just end up working out the same if you pay for the premium.
Have you tested this? To my knowledge The key fob transmits a resistance code through RF. It's not just relieving you from unlocking the doors and starting the car. If the vehicle does not receive the proper code it will not start, when it loses the code the engine should not continue to run. If the key was not needed to operate the vehicle when the battery drains it wouldn't be necessary to dock the fob to start the car.
The Intelligent key is designed for convenience (and for operating the vehicle of course), but not for governing operations beyond the control of the driver. Car should be turned on and off when the driver explicitly decides to do so.
Placed the order w/the dealer Feb 16, order went to factory March8, and took delivery of my M35x Black, Wheat, Journey, Tech on June 16. Not quite a week yet and love everything about the car. I paid Invoice plus $2000(which was the deal we originally made in Feb) and got the same amount on the trade as they quoted me originally. They held to everything they promised 4 months ago and have treated me like royalty. I have one question that they have not been able to answer yet regarding a phone book entry. The voicemail system I use has me dial an 800# to access the service, then an access code(7 more digits), then a password(6 more digits). My cell phone, Motorola v710 allows me to store the whole string of numbers using a "pause" key between each command- ex. "please enter access code", then "please enter password".Does anyone know if there is a "pause key" on the M's keypad? I'd like to be able to program the whole string one time! BTW, I dealt with Infiniti of Columbus, here in the Buckeye state.
I have read several comments (some that appear conflicting?) regarding engine RPMs when the M35 is being driven at ~70 mph on a highway. I have seen various numbers but most are in the 2600 - 3000 range. Is this correct? If so I wonder why?
I have an FX35 and it sits at 2000 RPM @ 60 mph and about 2300 RPM @ 70 mph. I see no reason why the M35 would be a lot higher? Could differences be related to the "drive-by-wire-throttle" programming? :confuse:
I am very much interested in the M35, but quitness is an issue with me. I have been on a couple of test drives in an M35 Sport but did not think to check the engine RPMs at highway speeds - I'll do that on my next test drive.
I went yesterday to the dealership and the aero kit is not available on the M35x. Also i priced out a blk/tech/journey and splash and spoiler and it was exactly the msrp when u price it online. i think it was 50,600. I know they u can do better so I'll play it out. Plus they were like the residuals will go up so u should jump on it now. Any comments. thanks
I actually just got my car from Ramsey. I called all the dealers in the area including Salerno, Park, etc. and none of them could beat Ramsey (some had similar deals, but did not have the right color etc). I have a 35x with journey, tech, full spare and splash guards, umbria with black interior (total list price was $50,300) and am paying $543/month for a 39 month lease with zero down (my total out of pocket was around $1800 which was the lease fee, first month lease payment, motor vehicle charges and etching). It's low because I took advantage of Infiniti's multiple security deposit option (9 month refundable security deposit). That reduced my payment by about $63 and equates to an over 13% return on my money, which I thought was a pretty good deal. I also took the 10,000 miles per year allowance, which for me is plenty, but the lease price would increase by about $10/month if I went for 12,000. The residual on the car is about $31,800.
How is what you are paying compared to invoice. I guess if I were to give Ramsey more time they could have offered a better deal but in my experience they offered me FX45 last December for invoice + $2000 when you could easily find it at invoice + 100 and this spring invoice + $4000 on M45 sport. Both times I called to confirm that they couldn't do better. All other places had better pricing and it's hard to figure out why. I always dealt with the internet manager so may be if you go to the dealership they treat you differently.
I'm not sure how it compares to invoice. Since I was leasing I was really only concerned with monthly lease price. What made it a good lease was also a higher residual. I think the price of the car was about $2500 - $3000 off of the sticker. What is the relationship between sticker and invoice?
Also, the only time I actually went to the dealer was to pick up the call. I had another price and I cold called the dealer, got a great salesman, told him my other deal and he beat it (considerably). He also matched what I was offerred for the trade of my G35, which was an aggressive price, sight unseen. I thought that could be an issue when I went to pick up the car, but it wasn't and they were really great.
Can't your dealer just do a swap? Seems easy enough to me. :confuse: I can not comprehend a dealer who wouldn't take care of an item such as this - its a $50K+ car :confuse:
Folks, please be sure you are familiar with your terms of use in our community ... you may not post salesfolks' names or any other specific sales contact info other than the dealer's name and general location, and you may not use our Forums to sell or to buy things.
The easiest way to review the terms of use to is check the Rules of the Road link at the top of the page. The full Membership Agreement is available via the link on the left side of the page.
If, after reviewing those documents, any questions remain, please feel free to email me and ask. You can always get my email address from the link to my profile at the top of this discussion.
I have recently joined the ranks of Infiniti owners and purchased a 2006 M45 Sport. I have had it for 2 weeks but have only put 20 miles on the odometer. Why so little? I took delivery and went on a 2 week vacation & business trip (which I’m still on) the following day. I almost forget what the car looks like.
Before leaving I was able to program the BT system to work with my V710 as well as the homelink system. However I would like to use my iPod with the stock system. I have the Journey package so it is the one level up upgrade from the stock sound system. What is the best way to connect both systems? In my last car, I used a system from Dension USA. This worked great as it appeared to the system as a CD changer. However Dension does not have support for any of the Infiniti’s. Looking for options?
Has anybody hardwired a ValentineOne radar detector to their M?
being that it is a factory item - and Nismo being Nissans performance line of accesories etc... I would think that it would be - but have not heard for sure.
Urwin-Besides this forum, there's lots more information about the M on the freshalloy.com M 35/45 forum, and I would be happy to respond to your full sized spare issue there.
harborman, just curious, did you order Sirius radio or XM? I am in the same situation you are but with one month delay from your order. So if your delivery time is any proxy I should be getting my car mid July. My car was ordered with the factory on April 6 (actual purchase on March 23), and my dealer initially said "2 to 3" months. Now that 2 months have come and gone, I was trying to guage how accurate the 3 month quote would be and by your experience it seems like it's pretty much there. The reason I ask about the satellite radio is becuase I ordered Sirius and I wonder if this is what is causing the delay or if it is just a normal 3 month delivery window and the dealer is just try to promise more than they can deliver (which wouldn't be surprising in the least, would it?!).
I have never ordered a car before, but might end up doing so with my next one, since I don't want to settle when it comes to a $50k+ car. What is the order process like? What is required up front, and are most dealers more or less likely to deal on an ordered car? Is it a percentage down up front, or do they just order it and figure they'll sell it on the lot if someone were to back out of the order? Any input would be appreciated.
I'm leaning toward a loaded (minus rear DVD) M45 Sport in Twilight Blue or Crimson Roulette and if the dealer doesn't have exactly what I decide on, I will be happy to wait rather than settle.
Also, has anyone ever bought 2 vehicles at the same time? If so, did you get a better deal as a package sale? I'm also thinking about a QX56 for my wife and am wondering if buying both (if that's what we decide on for her) would give me a good bargaining position (and how good)?
good evening M45 owners, I was wondering if you guys can help me to get a good deal on M45 sport, with journey and tech package (MSRP around $58K). I was quoted over email for $56K ($2000 minus MSRP). Can you share with me prices you have paid?
I have an '06 M45 J/T and I added an iPod by using a Belkin TuneBase plugged into the front power plug and ran wires back to the Aux audio inputs. The wires are hidden and the installation looks great. The iPod sits up and is easy to see and use. Not quite as good as if it were integrated into the radio but, hey.
I don't think the radio is holding up delivery. I ordered XM. I believe that is pretty much the norm for ordering the car. Orders are placed by the dealer by the 8th of the month. The following month is the build month, then it takes the slow boat across the water. They are pretty much right on when they say 100- 110 days, so mid-July should be the target. Contact your sales associate and ask for the vin # of your car. If they have it ask them to check the status of the car. They can tell if it has arrived at the port, when it is on the train( to the regional distribution center) and when it leaves the regional distribution center. Once it is off the train it is considered "in dealer inventory" and they start paying floor plan charges (interest) on your car, so they are very interested in delivering it to you. I had mine in 5 days from the time it came off the train.
Then they quoted me an off the cuff premium of $2K. I am married, in my 40's with 2 other autos and no accidents ever.
I called GEICO and changed over all 3 policies and I saved so much money that the M ended up costing me an additional $400.
Here in AZ we have among the highest rates in the country due to our proximity to Mexico and the very high rate of vehicle theft. Nonetheless, my USAA premium for my M-car was increased only $60 over what I was paying for my '01 DeVille. I've never found anyone who can match USAA's rates.
I live in NJ and have had USAA for over 10 years, and also believed no one could beat them. However, 6 or so months ago, GEICO became available in NJ and for the identical coverages on an '03 Jag S-Type and '04 Lexus RX330 GEICO beat USAA by ~$1000/year. Before switching, I gave USAA a chance to compete, but when I told the lady what GEICO's price was, even she said I would be insane not to switch. So far, no regrets.
Unfortunately there are no Aux inputs without the dvd audio (ie 5.1 surround). I believe this requires the tech or premium package. .
Right now, without the aux input, there are limited choices for the M.
Monster iCruise The good - It offers a true aux input, - It's compatible with your steering wheel controls, - It offers an optional display that can be mounted on your dash or visor.
The Bad - You have to completely give up use of your CD player (Very very bad) - It shows no iPod info on your NAV screen.
FM Modulator If you get an FM modulator hard wired, it will work fairly reliably, as it can better compete with local channels.
I believe that's it for right now, but more will probably be coming.
If you have an Aux input, will it show the iPod info on the NAV screen even when the car is moving? I assume for this you need to run the video as well as audio inputs into the AUX input in the back seat - right?
Does anyone have experience buying a car off of a lease with Infiniti as the lessor? If so, do they typically hold firm to the residual as the buyout price or has there been some movement, particularly where there is a very high residual (66%)? Obviously things change, but I was trying to get an idea based on past experience.
If you have an Aux input, will it show the iPod info on the NAV screen even when the car is moving? I assume for this you need to run the video as well as audio inputs into the AUX input in the back seat - right?
AFAIK, there's currently no way to get ipod track info on the NAV screen. You're suggesting using the aux video inputs to do that, but according to a discussion on the ipodlounge forum, there's no way to get that track info, even from the ipod photo's video out.
It's a nice idea. The NAV screen is capable of displaying DVD audio (and probably AUX audio), when the parking break is engaged. You could alter the NAV hardware to show the video while driving. (Its been done with DVD, but we can't go into it here.)
However, until Apple provides a video out that shows track info, it's all academic.
There might be one more option available for connecting an iPod.
Home made Aux input - You might try disassembling the CD player to determine if it’s using an analog audio feed to the head unit. - If so, you should be able to attach an audio switcher with a relay to that audio feed, to achieve a real aux input. The relay switch could be mounted under the dash as people have done for the NAV mod.
> I have tested this and the car DOES continue to run.
Upon delivery, the dealer explained to me that I would not need to give the valet a key fob in order for the car to be driven away and parked and the engine to be shut off. However, I would have to give valet a key fob to bring the car back.
Some posters on this forum indicated that they would make the first oil change ahead of the first 3,750 mile service interval, what with the metal particles from the 1,200 mile break-in period, etc. On the other hand, I heard different recommendations from some high-end car manufacturers: the oil used at the factory is of a special type that the engine needs for a proper break-in, therefore, leave it be and do not change it before the first recommended maintenance. Yet another opinion is that a factory uses the cheapest oil of the recommended grade that happens to come its way, so change it as soon as possible (that actually turned true with the low-maintenance Mercedes engines in the MLs made in Alabama--a class action suite resulted in only sythetic oil being used). What are the opinions on this for the new M?
Also, how about switching to synthetic oil from 3,750 onwards? I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic with good results on other cars. Are there any opinions on Castrol or other competing brands or synthetic types (such as "recommended for new cars") for 5W30 oil recommended for the M across the wide temperature range?
Picture these actual scenarios: The M is parked right outside of your first-floor office window during the workday, so that you can keep an eye on it. Leave the key fob in your office and go to a conference room -- this makes the car ready to be entered, started and driven away (re: the valet scenario) due to the 30 ft range stated in the manual. Now, let's say that you carry the key fob in your pocket and visit a colleague in an adjacent office. You do not see the car and it is still in the RF range. Am I missing something, or is it a theft enabler?
Most cars with keyless start only start the car when you are inside the car. I have a car, not an Infiniti, and if you have the key in your pocket and are standing outside of the car barely, someone sitting in the car cannot start the car. Are you sure it says 30 feet away. I would be worried if they could even get into the car but I think that is wrong. I don't think that someone can open your car if remote is 30 feet away.
Sorry, for flooding this forum with posts. I hope you guys will forgive a new excited M owner...
There is a separate Zaino (detailing) thread but I am wondering if somebody here may have a specific experience/recommendation on detailing their new M.
I have used Meguiar's products so far and am quite pleased with the results but this Zaino stuff intrigues me. Here is what I think I will try: - Wash the new M with blue Dawn (as recommended by Zaino to strip everything clean, including any tar pickup from the road in the first few hundreds of miles) - Should I use Z7 car shampoo at this stage to make sure all of the alkaline Dawn is gone? Or maybe skip the Dawn and just use Z7? - Apply Z2 with ZFX for quicker curing - Apply Z6 - If I still have time / strength, apply more layers of Z2 and Z5 for added protection (Zaino says ~6 mos with one layer, ~9 mos with two) - Finish with Z8 for extra durability?
My main goal is paint protection not the looks because the new M in Diamond Graphite already looks "glossy and wet" and all that. Any recommendations?
Given that most drivers in this price range lease, oil choice is beyond irrelevant. I'd be stunned in anyone could tell, in day-to-day driving, what oil was in the crankcase, so long as there was enough in there to keep the LOP warning off.
I buy my cars and keep them for well in excess of 100K miles, if they're worthy. I concern myself a lot with oil & filters. Most don't.
Bless you for caring. I'm guessing 99% of the people who will turn in their M's in 2-3 years (the real stick-in-the-muds might last 4) give a rip less about the oil, which is why I'm somewhat reluctant to buy an off-lease car of any type.
Synthetics are great in extremely low temperatures (Montana, Alberta, Manitoba, that sort of thing) but are otherwise of limited use to most drivers. That said, I still use the stuff. Cheap insurance, and all that. Oh, but wait, I'm keeping my car way, way, way beyond the warranty.
I'm running bare at the moment (well, not exactly, but I will tomorrow). I'd be willing to bet that the number of people who will drive their new M beyond the warranty long enough to care about what kind of oil was used could have a convention in a phone booth.
Oh, wait -- there aren't phone booths anymore. I date myself, as if I hadn't already.
this makes the car ready to be entered, started and driven away (re: the valet scenario) due to the 30 ft range stated in the manual The 30 feet is for the remote transmitter NOT for the fob. For the fob to work, you need to be within a couple of feet.
Comments
Exactly right.
Pete
I am sure that you'd like the crimson red much more than the blue--but hey, it's your car and just make sure you look at both of them in the near-dark or a cloudy day and then look at both of them in the bright sunlight--that'll help you decide.
So many times of comparison made me bored, and I use 87 99% of time.
-thene
I have one question that they have not been able to answer yet regarding a phone book entry. The voicemail system I use has me dial an 800# to access the service, then an access code(7 more digits), then a password(6 more digits). My cell phone, Motorola v710 allows me to store the whole string of numbers using a "pause" key between each command- ex. "please enter access code", then "please enter password".Does anyone know if there is a "pause key" on the M's keypad? I'd like to be able to program the whole string one time!
BTW, I dealt with Infiniti of Columbus, here in the Buckeye state.
I have an FX35 and it sits at 2000 RPM @ 60 mph and about 2300 RPM @ 70 mph. I see no reason why the M35 would be a lot higher? Could differences be related to the "drive-by-wire-throttle" programming? :confuse:
I am very much interested in the M35, but quitness is an issue with me. I have been on a couple of test drives in an M35 Sport but did not think to check the engine RPMs at highway speeds - I'll do that on my next test drive.
Also, the only time I actually went to the dealer was to pick up the call. I had another price and I cold called the dealer, got a great salesman, told him my other deal and he beat it (considerably). He also matched what I was offerred for the trade of my G35, which was an aggressive price, sight unseen. I thought that could be an issue when I went to pick up the car, but it wasn't and they were really great.
The easiest way to review the terms of use to is check the Rules of the Road link at the top of the page. The full Membership Agreement is available via the link on the left side of the page.
If, after reviewing those documents, any questions remain, please feel free to email me and ask. You can always get my email address from the link to my profile at the top of this discussion.
Thanks.
Before leaving I was able to program the BT system to work with my V710 as well as the homelink system. However I would like to use my iPod with the stock system. I have the Journey package so it is the one level up upgrade from the stock sound system. What is the best way to connect both systems? In my last car, I used a system from Dension USA. This worked great as it appeared to the system as a CD changer. However Dension does not have support for any of the Infiniti’s. Looking for options?
Has anybody hardwired a ValentineOne radar detector to their M?
Regards,
Chris
Is this a Nismo piece?
being that it is a factory item - and Nismo being Nissans performance line of accesories etc... I would think that it would be - but have not heard for sure.
Does anyone know here?
Thanks,
I'm leaning toward a loaded (minus rear DVD) M45 Sport in Twilight Blue or Crimson Roulette and if the dealer doesn't have exactly what I decide on, I will be happy to wait rather than settle.
Also, has anyone ever bought 2 vehicles at the same time? If so, did you get a better deal as a package sale? I'm also thinking about a QX56 for my wife and am wondering if buying both (if that's what we decide on for her) would give me a good bargaining position (and how good)?
I believe that is pretty much the norm for ordering the car. Orders are placed by the dealer by the 8th of the month. The following month is the build month, then it takes the slow boat across the water. They are pretty much right on when they say 100- 110 days, so mid-July should be the target.
Contact your sales associate and ask for the vin # of your car. If they have it ask them to check the status of the car. They can tell if it has arrived at the port, when it is on the train( to the regional distribution center) and when it leaves the regional distribution center. Once it is off the train it is considered "in dealer inventory" and they start paying floor plan charges (interest) on your car, so they are very interested in delivering it to you. I had mine in 5 days from the time it came off the train.
I called GEICO and changed over all 3 policies and I saved so much money that the M ended up costing me an additional $400.
Here in AZ we have among the highest rates in the country due to our proximity to Mexico and the very high rate of vehicle theft. Nonetheless, my USAA premium for my M-car was increased only $60 over what I was paying for my '01 DeVille. I've never found anyone who can match USAA's rates.
Craig
Right now, without the aux input, there are limited choices for the M.
Monster iCruise
The good
- It offers a true aux input,
- It's compatible with your steering wheel controls,
- It offers an optional display that can be mounted on your dash or visor.
The Bad
- You have to completely give up use of your CD player (Very very bad)
- It shows no iPod info on your NAV screen.
FM Modulator
If you get an FM modulator hard wired, it will work fairly reliably, as it can better compete with local channels.
I believe that's it for right now, but more will probably be coming.
Pete
- It shows no iPod info on your NAV screen.
If you have an Aux input, will it show the iPod info on the NAV screen even when the car is moving? I assume for this you need to run the video as well as audio inputs into the AUX input in the back seat - right?
AFAIK, there's currently no way to get ipod track info on the NAV screen. You're suggesting using the aux video inputs to do that, but according to a discussion on the ipodlounge forum, there's no way to get that track info, even from the ipod photo's video out.
It's a nice idea. The NAV screen is capable of displaying DVD audio (and probably AUX audio), when the parking break is engaged. You could alter the NAV hardware to show the video while driving. (Its been done with DVD, but we can't go into it here.)
However, until Apple provides a video out that shows track info, it's all academic.
Pete
Home made Aux input
- You might try disassembling the CD player to determine if it’s using an analog audio feed to the head unit.
- If so, you should be able to attach an audio switcher with a relay to that audio feed, to achieve a real aux input. The relay switch could be mounted under the dash as people have done for the NAV mod.
Please let us know what you discover.
Pete
Upon delivery, the dealer explained to me that I would not need to give the valet a key fob in order for the car to be driven away and parked and the engine to be shut off. However, I would have to give valet a key fob to bring the car back.
Some posters on this forum indicated that they would make the first oil change ahead of the first 3,750 mile service interval, what with the metal particles from the 1,200 mile break-in period, etc. On the other hand, I heard different recommendations from some high-end car manufacturers: the oil used at the factory is of a special type that the engine needs for a proper break-in, therefore, leave it be and do not change it before the first recommended maintenance. Yet another opinion is that a factory uses the cheapest oil of the recommended grade that happens to come its way, so change it as soon as possible (that actually turned true with the low-maintenance Mercedes engines in the MLs made in Alabama--a class action suite resulted in only sythetic oil being used). What are the opinions on this for the new M?
Also, how about switching to synthetic oil from 3,750 onwards? I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic with good results on other cars. Are there any opinions on Castrol or other competing brands or synthetic types (such as "recommended for new cars") for 5W30 oil recommended for the M across the wide temperature range?
There is a separate Zaino (detailing) thread but I am wondering if somebody here may have a specific experience/recommendation on detailing their new M.
I have used Meguiar's products so far and am quite pleased with the results but this Zaino stuff intrigues me. Here is what I think I will try:
- Wash the new M with blue Dawn (as recommended by Zaino to strip everything clean, including any tar pickup from the road in the first few hundreds of miles)
- Should I use Z7 car shampoo at this stage to make sure all of the alkaline Dawn is gone? Or maybe skip the Dawn and just use Z7?
- Apply Z2 with ZFX for quicker curing
- Apply Z6
- If I still have time / strength, apply more layers of Z2 and Z5 for added protection (Zaino says ~6 mos with one layer, ~9 mos with two)
- Finish with Z8 for extra durability?
My main goal is paint protection not the looks because the new M in Diamond Graphite already looks "glossy and wet" and all that. Any recommendations?
I buy my cars and keep them for well in excess of 100K miles, if they're worthy. I concern myself a lot with oil & filters. Most don't.
Bless you for caring. I'm guessing 99% of the people who will turn in their M's in 2-3 years (the real stick-in-the-muds might last 4) give a rip less about the oil, which is why I'm somewhat reluctant to buy an off-lease car of any type.
Synthetics are great in extremely low temperatures (Montana, Alberta, Manitoba, that sort of thing) but are otherwise of limited use to most drivers. That said, I still use the stuff. Cheap insurance, and all that. Oh, but wait, I'm keeping my car way, way, way beyond the warranty.
I'm running bare at the moment (well, not exactly, but I will tomorrow). I'd be willing to bet that the number of people who will drive their new M beyond the warranty long enough to care about what kind of oil was used could have a convention in a phone booth.
Oh, wait -- there aren't phone booths anymore. I date myself, as if I hadn't already.
From the Infiniti M Quick Reference Guide, top of pg. 3:
"INTELLIGENT KEY
Your Intelligent Key will operate up to 30 feet from your vehicle."
The 30 feet is for the remote transmitter NOT for the fob. For the fob to work, you need to be within a couple of feet.