Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Ours used to be with the old owner. We closed for all the major holidays, and were closed every Sunday. He figured that if we could not survive closing 6 days a year + Sundays then we were doomed any how. Now we only close on Christmas, Thanksgiving, and New Years Day :mad: :sick:
It all changed when one of our competitors decided to be open 364 days a year. Unfortunatley your competition determines your hours in our area.
If they say no, get up to walk out, and tell them to call if they change their minds. You may end up waiting until the fall, but it is worth it to save may thousands of dollars.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Remember, these are asking prices....even at $16,995 or more, the selling price after negotiations should get pretty close to your target range.
My wife wants a loaded Honda Pilot this summer. And my car is a beater that I hoped to replace in December.
The car buying process is so time consuming though, I wondered about doing it all at the same time. Would I get a more favorable deal from a dealership if I came in to buy two cars on the same day?
I've seen where I can get the pilot she wants for around 6k below msrp, and if I bought two, or if I bought an element, (which isn't moving too well on the dealership floors either here in Calif), could I get that for a better price than if I showed up at the dealership a month after buying my wife's car?
Thanks!
-thene
They are going to take you for whatever they can get. If you let them, that is.
Buying two at a time will result in some people getting screwed twice. For another person, it might result in two super deals.
Do the research and go make an offer on one, two or ten cars, however many you need at the time.
Try to figure a no profit deal for whatever car you want. That can be your first offer. Go up as needed within your comfort zone and see if you end up with a car or two.
It is possible to make a great deal any day of any month, but not necessarily at every dealership you happen to visit.
Just get out there and make some offers.
Short answer is YES.
Carfax on their website even says so. Not everything gets to carfax so use it only as a guide and have an expert look it over to make sure.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
LAM group contribution 494.45
LAM dealer contribution 494.45
Are these ad fees or something. Sure were on the invoice. Did I get taken for 1k?? Are these fees normally negotiable??
Not sure I don't have any expericne with chevy stores.
-thene
I would imagine it's some sort of dealer contribution for marketing, but charging it twice. I'd be a little suspicious of that.
I bought a Tahoe about 5 months ago. Granted, it was under employee pricing (GMS), which is well under invoice. I kept the incentives. Never saw any LAM charges.
Best thing to do is to tell them you're not paying any LAM. Deal is contigent on the dealer backing those fees out of the deal. If they don't want to....hit the door. You'll see how "interested" they are to get your business in pretty short order.
It's not like Tahoes are "hot items" right now with gas prices the way they are.
This was an after the fact question, achenator has already bought the Tahoe.
I have no idea whether this LAM fee is legit, but is sounds like a bunch of bull. There is a thread from, "Stories from Sales Frontlines" discussing this issue. Just because a salesman shows you a computer print-out on what they paid for a vehicle, doesn't make it legitimate. No, they aren't necessarily lieing about it. But, if they want to charge a CODB fee(cost of doing business)for $500 they have the right to do so.
Do your homework/research... and forget about any weird fees or charges shown to you via computer monitor or printout. Pay the destination fee, $50-$75 dealer fee... and forget about the advertising and other bullblank fees. :shades:
The LAM "fees" sound suspicious, at best....particularly, two of them.
As you say, agree to a price....forget about the fees. Dealerships can add any fee they want. If you're making a deal, the bottom line is how much money is going from the customer's pocket into the dealership's pocket. If the amount of money you've agreed that has to come out of your pocket doesn't "jive" with the amount of money the dealership says you have to pay, there is no deal.
LAM sounds like Local Advertising Market to me but why does it show up twice?
Well then they got ya
It does seem to be common practice in GM Dealerships. I googled it and there are conversations all over the net about it, not just one dealer.
That sounds dumb though so no idea what it is.
Young and Rubicon does our advertising but we abreviate our Ad fee as RAG(Regional Advertising Group)
By the way, the dealer fee is usually sprung on the customer in F&I, AFTER the vehicle price was agreed upon.
Ya I belive that is on page 2 of the book we all have.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Or WAY more than necessary.
I had originally agreed to the vehicle price via Email and knew the 'haggle" part would have to be made on the trade-in....but then when the $599.00 dealer fee showed up....that's when I finally got $13,599.00 for the trade-in.
It should be noted that they more than likely still made a profit (which I readily know they should) but not the $2,599.00 more than what I agreed to.
You never know till you ask
I can't believe someone would sign a sales contract and not question almost $1000 in unknown fees....wow !
I've probably bought, or helped other family members buy, at least 6 different GM vehicles. The employee price is well under invoice. And, the customer keeps any incentives available.
In all of these purchases, there has never been any mention of a LAM fee. I'd have to think that even employees would pay any sort of dealership fee for advertising, but that's never been the case.
It's also questionable that they'd charge the fee twice.
To give you an example, my '07 Tahoe 4WD LTZ had an MSRP of around $52K. My price, including all inventives, was under $42K (or well under $10k off MSRP and well under invoice using available incentives and the employee discount). I just added tax, title, license....which are fixed costs. IIRC, even the doc fee was only $40. That's it. No LAM....or anything else, for that matter.
This is in OH, so I don't know if the incentives are the same where you are.
It sounds like your company has negotiated some sort of deal on those Tahoes at around $900 over invoice (where the LAM comes in)... you retain the incentives. They can call it anything they want. But, that's what the deal looks like to me.
If achenator is paying $1,000 over true invoice, it sure wouldn't be a great deal. I wouldn't care how many free loaners, back shavings and toenail clippings he's getting... it would still be a average to crappy deal.
But, hey... as long as he's happy.
the next customer was buying a Z-71 for his 16 year-0ld son.
I would been more happy about my deal had it been edmunds invoice minus incentives, but I guess I paid invoice plus 1k minus 3k in incentives.
$1000 profit is not to much to ask on that expensive of a truck.
I suppose if you want an easy stress free transaction it may be the way to go. But, if you want the "best deal", like this discussion title suggests, I think you have to break away from any special purchase groups or friends in the business... and go it alone. Enjoy your truck.
Still, I really like my Tahoe. It's probably one of the best vehicles in its class (full size SUVs), right now. That's saying something given all the competition out there (Expedition, Navigator, Titan, Infiniti QX, Escalade, Lexus LX, Toyota Sequoia, etc).
Plus, GM is rebating them (as is every manufacturer on their big SUVs).