I have some recent newspaper ads (not more than 1 month old) from another part of the country that have really good prices. When should I bring out these ads when I am at the dealership?
I will be buying my first car fairly soon. I don't have a car to trade-in. When do I should let the dealer know that?
Unless you are willing to go to the other part of the country and buy there, those newspapers aren't all that relevant. Each cities market is competitively different. and the dealers cost for the car might be different as well. As an example, Toyota's in the SouthEast have an extra 600 or so of SET fees they have to pay to get the vehicle into the South. Having a newspaper ad from Washington DC a much more competitive area and outside of the SET, could vary the price one would have to pay to get the vehicle substantially.
Dealers will price (obviously), to make the most profit they can. They will only go as low as they need to in the local competitive market area. They're normally competing against the dealership down the street, not against one in another area of the country.
Well, if you want the local dealers to have a good laugh, you can tell them that. I can see them saying, "Go right ahead and fly out to SF and buy the car there; then drive it back home. See how much money you can save."
But you could try the dealers in a closer area, like Washington DC as kiawah mentioned. I've heard mostly good things about prices from fitzmall.com.
Well, if you want the local dealers to have a good laugh, you can tell them that. I can see them saying, "Go right ahead and fly out to SF and buy the car there; then drive it back home. See how much money you can save."
Remarkably, there is still money to be saved that way. Until this week, the prices in So. Cal. were 2-3k less than SE MI prices. That means you get a free vacation to the west coast and you get to bring a car back with you. Alternatively, the last time I shipped a car from CA to MI (2003), it was about $600.
The big downside to shipping (if you don't fly there first) is that you won't have a chance to inspect the car before paying. I personally would never buy a car, even a new one, sight unseen.
The dealership will ask you if you have a trade. Don't worry about that. They make more money (generally) I believe on trade-ins, than on the new vehicles.
If it were me, for the vehicle I was interested in and seeing as though you'd (I'd be) purchasing my first car, to educate and pre-calibrate myself (not necessarily in this order):
I'd research Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) for the various trim levels
Pay $25 for a Consumer Reports Pricing Analysis
Visit a web-site like www.carsdirect.com and see what they are offering on the vehicle/trim in your ZIP code
Read everything on www.carbuyingtips.com
Look on the manufacturer's site for any rebate / incentives which may be in play.
CA appears to be the most competitive area of the country from what I've seen the deals people are reporting....I'd be shocked and surprised if you get anywhere near that price from an Ohio dealership. DC/VA/Maryland area seems to be the next best.
You'll probably be lucky to match Fitzmall, as previously mentioned....which would be a much easier drive. Pocket the savings or spend a week vacation at DC. You didn't mention what make vehicle you were interested in, but Fitzmall has a bunch of different brands (but not Honda's), so you may have to shop around.
Thanks for letting me know that the Ohio market is not as competitive. I will still bring out the ad from northern California. I'm going to try to make an argument for the lower cost of living in northwest Ohio compared to the San Francisco Bay Area.
Should I conceal that the fact that I do not have trade until the end of the new car price negotiation?
And so with a lower cost of living in Ohio, comes a higher level of available disposal income, which drives up the price that dealers can get for their vehicles. Should be a fun discussion.
Just don't burn any bridges. You may want to eventually go back to that dealership with a more realistic offer.
You may want to try the patent pending "bobst" method of car buying, do a search in the forums for many posts on the matter. Just walk in with your written offer on your business card, and ask them if they will sell it to you at that price today. If they say yes, you buy. If they say no...you walk to the next dealer and increase your offer by some $$'s.
Minimizes the total amount of negotiation time you'll be doing, and takes all of the stress and debate out of the process.
This is not a way to get a good car deal in Ohio unless you intend to fly to SF and buy the car. You need to find out what prices are in Ohio markets. They already know the cost of living here because they live here (I'm in Ohio too).
California also has different emissions requirements, and some vehicles can be shipped there more easily from Asia. There are a lot of factors that go into the cost of a car. Find out what regional prices are and negotiate accordingly. Your tactic is likely to cost you good will and a good deal.
Note - California emissions requirements are the strictest in the entire U.S. So it will have no problem getting into any other state(the reverse isn't true, though - it's often a major paperwork PITA to get cars from other states registered here in California)
I'm trying to give away as little about my identity online.
I don't really need a car; I only want a car if it is a good deal. I have lived in OH for 2 yrs. without a car.
I haven't driven for a while. I just need a car for practicing. I will need a car in two years. I just want a car that is reliable.
I'm not paying for the car by myself. Someone else is paying for the car. If I can't get a good price on a car, I guess I could rent a car for practicing and then have someone else purchase the car in SF (when they see a good price) and have it sent to me.
I haven't mention what the prices that my shopping companion is showing.
With all respect buying a car is not all that difficult. Go to the new car section here at edmunds look up invoice. Determine what you want to pay for it. If there any rebates subtract them for invoice unless it is either special financing or rebate which ever one you want to take. If you have a trade look up trade in values.
I wonder why you are trying to use add's from a different part of the country. I'm sure they advertise in your area. Dealerships pay a lot of money to advertise and if they are going to advertise they will put their best price in the advertisement.
The other thing I don't understand is why you don't need a car for 2 years? Do you not have a license yet? I understand you are trying to hide your identity but a dealership will not know if you posted on here unless you walked into the dealer and said "hey they are doing this in California, I want this deal" They will only know if they read these forums.
If you have to practice driving by a used car for $500 from the paper and practice. There is no way you can determine what the market will be in two years so why buy a car now for a car you will use in two years?
If that is the case like I suggested buy a $500 car now to practice and two years buy a new car
I wish I was 14, but unfortunately, I have been old enough to buy booze for a while.
Okay, I'm also a student. I don't really need a car now because I live within walking distance from campus and other places I need to frequent. I will need a car in about two years when I have to do some clinicals off-campus.
I wanted to buy a car for several hundred dollars and get rid of it next summer, but my folks, who live in the West, want to buy me a new car. They are doing the negotiating and they want to do it their way. They will be coming to OH.
oh, so most of what i posted w.r.t. helping you determine new car pricing for the model / trim you are interested in to calibrate you is not for you.
if you can avoid it, i would
a). not allow the folks to negotiate b). not convince you to buy new c). not co-sign for you
there, i wrote what i wrote and i wrote it.
Frankly, IF you are within walking distance to school or public transportation to same, it's safe to do some walking on foot, and haven't needed a car yet, then DON'T GET ONE. FOCUS ON SCHOOL.
When you graduate (or have a job decent enough to pay for a vehicle, it's upkeep, the insurance, the fuel), then and only then consider purchasing a vehicle (used) and save some $$$ and build your credit rating.
when you know your real finances, then go for the new vehicle if you need one, and if it fits your financial objectives.
My folks want me to have a car. I have to say that my folks are paying entirely for the car (no financing), but part of me is a cheap skate. If automobiles were not heavy, I would be rebuilding a salvage vehicle.
i understand. however, can you pay for the fuel, maintenance, insurance, or are they paying for that too? you gonna drive it when you don't need it (i presume parking on campus is a @#$%^&.
it makes no sense.
ask them to put the money down on your tuition and fees, or are they already doing that too...
there will come a point in life where you'll have to be a self-made person. some assistance is one thing... a graduation present that's a new car?
i'm sure there are many that would disagree with me but that is: totally totally over-board and mis-directed IMHO.
i wouldn't want to be learning to drive on a new car (that was mine...someone elses - fine).
also, your parents are enabling a certain convenience that is potentially neither needed and will be a money sink.
a vehicle you have which you drive just a few miles a day isn't good for a car as it will never get to operating temperature.
the folks paying for the vehicle does nada for your credit, which at some point, you need to establish for yourself.
the vehicle is going to cost (someone) in gas, insurance and maintenance, even if seldomly used.
the money is potentiall more wisely spent elsewhere providing you have a safe commute to/from campus.
vehicles are not an entitlement, but young people seem to think otherwise.
lot's of vehicles get hit / damaged / broken into on or near campus.
lots of young drivers away from home engage in risky behavior with their vehicles.
i could keep going...
i'm merely suggesting that you honestly assess the situation.
p.s. one of the great ways to meet someone who may turn out to be a lifelong friend or significant other is to mess their car up learning to drive. :shades:
Everything user777 said is true but he forgot the biggest downside to owning a car on campus. Every bum in the school will be asking for a ride. They will also encourage you to party with them (so they don't have to walk home). Now you have the added problems of cleaning vomit off your seats and paying for the DWI lawyers.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I'm a little late to this party, but I can't disagree with what anyone has said mypoint.
If your parents are buying the car, the deal should be negotiated by them.
If you're concerned about their "out of pocket" for a car, make this easy on them...
They don't know the market here. Just go to Edmund's TMV for the car they're willing to buy. Type in your zip code. Edmunds will spit out a general price for the car.
Or, go to Carsdirect.com using your zip code, and you should get a price that will be somewhat in the ball park.
Your idea for getting a "beater" just to drive around campus is a good one. Look in your local newspaper and see what's available from a private owner for the price range you're looking for.
When you have more specifics about the car you are interested in....model, year, options, mileage, condition, etc, we'll be better able to help you with the price.
What part of OH are you located? Which university are you attending?
You just described my freshman year of college. At my college freshman were not allowed to have a car on campus unless there was some special need or extenuating circumstance. I had my own car, that I paid my parents fair market value for my junior year of high school, because my mother was recovering from cancer and I wanted to be able to get home quickly if there was an emergency. I didn't want to have to rely on someone else to give me a ride home so I applied for and got a waiver from the university.
I had to park my car in a satellite lot over a hour walk from my dorm over on the far edge of campus. I happened to have a chemistry class in a building only 10 minutes from that lot so on Fridays I would usually pick up my car and drive it back to the dorm where I could park on the weekend. There was this girl in that class who lived in the dorm next to mine and I would give her a ride back to the dorm so she wouldn't have to walk. She was very cute and seemed like a nice girl so I didn't mind giving her a ride and it was not like it cost me anything as I was driving anyway.
This went on for a few weeks and then one weekend she called asking to borrow my car. I said no because no one drives my car but me. She begged me and I still said no. She got mad and hung up the phone.
Next week she wouldn't sit with me anymore and wouldn't ride with me back to the dorm. The week after that she found a new friend, a sophomore with a brand new BMW that his parents bought him, to give her a ride back to the dorm.
We pretty much stopped talking after that and her roommate, who I went to High School with, played some very mean tricks on me. :mad: :confuse:
Moral of the story: People will take advantage of you when you have a car in college.
oh yeah, i didn't think of that angle (getting taken advantage of), but it's true, you end up being the "gofor" (if you say yes), because you don't want others driving your car, unless you've lost your mind (and that may mean falling for someone).
if you say "no" you tend to loose the superficial acquaintences real fast.
the campus i lived on wouldn't allow motor vehicles for freshman, and also demanded you live on campus. two very good rules for new college students IMHO.
by the time i was a junior, i had a family beater hand-me-down (VW rabbit manual + rust) which was just fine, but i seldom drove anywhere unless it was the weekend.
i was too busy focused on schoolwork and campus-based activities. my studies were my job since my folks were helping with tuition. i suppose if at the time i had to be employed to make up for tuition and fees, maybe a car would have been a necessity if on-campus work or local-transportation were impractical.
i graduated with loan debt, but manageable debt, and worked to build my credit before making my first car purchase (used). it wasn't until my third vehicle that i bought new.
i think this fiscal restraint and a good sense of where the money should go (pay down my loan obligations) was very important. this discipline has served me well in my later years as i'm sure it has others.
another lesson i learned, it's sometimes so tempting and easy to say "yes", and so much harder to just say "no".
if i had another point to make, it might be, it will bring you greater satisfaction to be self-made and able to afford your own new car purchase in the future.
i see many kids getting new BMWs or ACURAs or Jeeps in high-school, and I think, they'll actually be at a great disadvantage in the future because of their parent's poor decision making.
oh yeah, i didn't think of that angle (getting taken advantage of), but it's true, you end up being the "gofor" (if you say yes), because you don't want others driving your car, unless you've lost your mind (and that may mean falling for someone).
Oh yeah I fell hard for this girl as she was one of the three types that really knocked me over at the time.
Petite, Indian with Dark Raven hair and just a bit of a British accent. All of that would seriously compromise my judgment.
I didn't work for my first two years of college, I still worked at a shop during all school breaks, but I did work during the school year for my last three years.
I needed the car when I started working since the BT schedule didn't always line up with my work schedule.
My biggest bit of advice would be if you do get a car DO NOT under any circumstances let anyone else drive it. Also be very wary of people taking advantage of you. Especially girls that are way out of your league.
I am in your parents' position, having made an offer to buy a car for my rising college senior.
I'm letting him choose the car, but within certain parameters. (1) There is an on-the-road budget, and it's not enough for a new high-line car. (2) His choice has to make sense to me. Specifically, it has to be large enough to carry his gear to go camping, to buy medium-sized purchases, or to move short distances. A Scion tc is probably too small; a Subaru Impreza wagon is large enough. (3) The deal has to make sense. (4) I recommend, but don't require, new vs. used so that he can learn maintenance gradually and with less cost and risk. He is not mechanically inclined.
The offer is good through the summer after graduation, so he is not under (much) pressure to select before he is ready.
When I say that I am a "student," everyone seems to think that I am an undergraduate. I am not an undergraduate. Why is that? Do many people assume that an individual with a bachelor's degree already has a car?
Because there are a lot more undergraduate than graduate students. Since you did not specify what kind of a student you are and the odds highly favor undergraduate status, it was quite reasonable to assume you were an undergraduate.
Aside from that, I think the only question you need to answer is whether you really need a car and, if the answer is yes, then people here will be happy to offer advice on how to get the best deal.
That is a state of mind. No girl was out of my league. If you had seen the car I had when I was a student you would realise that it was not necessarily a positive!
Also the minute someone says their parents are buying them a car I think undergraduate and not even upperclassmen either. I was thinking you were between 17 and 20 years old.
what is really interesting though, you are in a minority being a student (male or female) comming here and asking advice.
good for you.
you are even in more of a minority being female, and even more-so, a graduate student.
you indicated you were to learn how to drive. i'm not sure of percentages, but most kids living outside of NYC or other metroplolitan places served predominately by public transportation probably have their licenses before or shortly after entering college as an undergrad.
so, your rarity deserves special attention and recognition.
good luck in your decisions. p.s. it's possible your folks just don't see you enough and want you to drive and see them... or maybe they were excessively cheap with you as a youngster, or maybe they need to shed some monetary inventory. i don't know. only you can determine what is right for you.
but it's been fun rehearsing what i'm gonna do when my kids come of age. so thanks.
Get a good bicycle. No, seriously. A nice $600-$800 U.S. made trek(as opposed to the Chinese junk)- or sometihng like it.
Get some exercise. No cost, no fuel, no insurance, no bums(friends) asking you for a ride...
If they are concerned with winter and so on... and MUST buy you something new or slightly used, I suggest you get a couple of year old Wrangler or old 4x4(ie - a manual 4 cylinder Tacoma pickup) and still ride the bike to save gas. A Wrangler is good because it has no rear cargo area(well, the back seats DO fold down, but you don't have to tell your friends that), is bumpy, and so on - but also is indestructible and holds its value pretty well.
The Tacoma 4x4(standard cab) pickup is another good choice. Even new, it's about $18K, and used, it's closer to 10-12K for a perfectly good example. Great MPG as well.
Plekto, Ohio doesn't work like California. Cars don't understand the concept of cycling as a form of transportation. Commuting by bike in Michigan involves taking your life in your hands as you roll out of the driveway. Also from November to February, it can be very uncomfortable. I still do it, but, I really can't recommend it; thats one of the main reasons its time for me to head back to the Golden State. Also, you have to go over that budget to get a US made (as opposed to Taiwanese made) Trek. Maybe a Cannondale (although I think the CF ones are made abroad these days)
I will probably be purchasing a new vehicle (Nissan) towards the end of August. Is there any incentive to wait until the Labor day weekend? Or are the end of the month deals typically the same as 'holiday' sales?
They award degrees in English my good fellow... not "grammar". :shades:
But to follow up with moo's thought. I've been following mypoints thread for the last 3 days, and still do not know what point mypoint is trying to make.
Oh, but you can take grammar courses as part of being an English major or just for a good time (where is a rolleyes when I need one?).
Of course the grammar course I took in college was really more linguistics which makes you wonder. Even the English department doesn't know about grammar?
I suppose really the question is of a spelling and usage major. That would be handy if you can nab a job as a troll in a place such as these. Not that I'm calling anyone a troll.....
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
LOL, I agree with that observation completely. I'll bet that at least 80% of the posts I've seen over the years criticizing someone else's grammar, spelling, whatever exhibit at least one of the problems that created the critcism.
Disclaimer: I bear no responsibility for any structural errors in this post and if you find any, blame them on the actual hosts of this discussion of whom I am not one. :shades:
I hope that you're degree isn't in Logic or Advanced Reasoning Skills.
I've been very late joining this show. I've not been around to comment as this saga was unfolding but to answer your post; you can rest assured she ain't gettin no degree in that field. :surprise:
I can't believe what I've been reading here.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
I'm back from the dealership. I didn't bring any newspaper ads because I didn't like any of the ads that my parents brought.
I made an offer of exactly $17K with destination charge for a 2008 Toyota Corolla LE with antilock brakes and side airbags. It was rejected. The salesman wanted over $17600. He didn't seem to budge so I left. Do you have any tips?
Now I'm thinking of ordering a Corolla LE or Yaris 4-door with antilock brakes being the only option.
as they say, "the limb that bends does not break". now, you might want to take a breather and consider you might be able to do better elsewhere, but you may also encounter other fees at another store.
i don't know what your ultimate decision point will be, but your time and effort are worth something as well.
most people when they are within a few hundred $$$ - i think they believe they've thread the needle.
were you comparing apples to apples? the manual is going to be about 5-700 less than the automatic. did your TMV include the ABS (maybe 2-300 more) the side airbags (? cost) and the other stuff you were looking at?
if you are gonna go in guns blazing / hyper-calibrated, make sure you know what is included in your numbers.
Comments
I will be buying my first car fairly soon. I don't have a car to trade-in. When do I should let the dealer know that?
Dealers will price (obviously), to make the most profit they can. They will only go as low as they need to in the local competitive market area. They're normally competing against the dealership down the street, not against one in another area of the country.
I just want to mention than I'm in northwest Ohio, and I have ads from the area around San Francisco, California. I don't know if this matters.
But you could try the dealers in a closer area, like Washington DC as kiawah mentioned. I've heard mostly good things about prices from fitzmall.com.
Remarkably, there is still money to be saved that way. Until this week, the prices in So. Cal. were 2-3k less than SE MI prices. That means you get a free vacation to the west coast and you get to bring a car back with you. Alternatively, the last time I shipped a car from CA to MI (2003), it was about $600.
If it were me, for the vehicle I was interested in and seeing as though you'd (I'd be) purchasing my first car, to educate and pre-calibrate myself (not necessarily in this order):
I'd research Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) for the various trim levels
Pay $25 for a Consumer Reports Pricing Analysis
Visit a web-site like www.carsdirect.com and see what they are offering on the vehicle/trim in your ZIP code
Read everything on www.carbuyingtips.com
Look on the manufacturer's site for any rebate / incentives which may be in play.
You'll probably be lucky to match Fitzmall, as previously mentioned....which would be a much easier drive. Pocket the savings or spend a week vacation at DC. You didn't mention what make vehicle you were interested in, but Fitzmall has a bunch of different brands (but not Honda's), so you may have to shop around.
Should I conceal that the fact that I do not have trade until the end of the new car price negotiation?
Just don't burn any bridges. You may want to eventually go back to that dealership with a more realistic offer.
You may want to try the patent pending "bobst" method of car buying, do a search in the forums for many posts on the
matter. Just walk in with your written offer on your business card, and ask them if they will sell it to you at that price today. If they say yes, you buy. If they say no...you walk to the next dealer and increase your offer by some $$'s.
Minimizes the total amount of negotiation time you'll be doing, and takes all of the stress and debate out of the process.
Good luck and have fun!
California also has different emissions requirements, and some vehicles can be shipped there more easily from Asia. There are a lot of factors that go into the cost of a car. Find out what regional prices are and negotiate accordingly. Your tactic is likely to cost you good will and a good deal.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
I don't really need a car; I only want a car if it is a good deal. I have lived in OH for 2 yrs. without a car.
I haven't driven for a while. I just need a car for practicing. I will need a car in two years. I just want a car that is reliable.
I'm not paying for the car by myself. Someone else is paying for the car. If I can't get a good price on a car, I guess I could rent a car for practicing and then have someone else purchase the car in SF (when they see a good price) and have it sent to me.
I haven't mention what the prices that my shopping companion is showing.
I wonder why you are trying to use add's from a different part of the country. I'm sure they advertise in your area. Dealerships pay a lot of money to advertise and if they are going to advertise they will put their best price in the advertisement.
The other thing I don't understand is why you don't need a car for 2 years? Do you not have a license yet? I understand you are trying to hide your identity but a dealership will not know if you posted on here unless you walked into the dealer and said "hey they are doing this in California, I want this deal" They will only know if they read these forums.
If you have to practice driving by a used car for $500 from the paper and practice. There is no way you can determine what the market will be in two years so why buy a car now for a car you will use in two years?
If that is the case like I suggested buy a $500 car now to practice and two years buy a new car
Because mypoint is 14 and can't get his/her license until 16.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Okay, I'm also a student. I don't really need a car now because I live within walking distance from campus and other places I need to frequent. I will need a car in about two years when I have to do some clinicals off-campus.
I wanted to buy a car for several hundred dollars and get rid of it next summer, but my folks, who live in the West, want to buy me a new car. They are doing the negotiating and they want to do it their way. They will be coming to OH.
if you can avoid it, i would
a). not allow the folks to negotiate
b). not convince you to buy new
c). not co-sign for you
there, i wrote what i wrote and i wrote it.
Frankly, IF you are within walking distance to school or public transportation to same, it's safe to do some walking on foot, and haven't needed a car yet, then DON'T GET ONE. FOCUS ON SCHOOL.
When you graduate (or have a job decent enough to pay for a vehicle, it's upkeep, the insurance, the fuel), then and only then consider purchasing a vehicle (used) and save some $$$ and build your credit rating.
when you know your real finances, then go for the new vehicle if you need one, and if it fits your financial objectives.
it makes no sense.
ask them to put the money down on your tuition and fees, or are they already doing that too...
there will come a point in life where you'll have to be a self-made person. some assistance is one thing... a graduation present that's a new car?
i'm sure there are many that would disagree with me but that is: totally totally over-board and mis-directed IMHO.
tell them i said so.
i wouldn't want to be learning to drive on a new car (that was mine...someone elses - fine).
also, your parents are enabling a certain convenience that is potentially neither needed and will be a money sink.
a vehicle you have which you drive just a few miles a day isn't good for a car as it will never get to operating temperature.
the folks paying for the vehicle does nada for your credit, which at some point, you need to establish for yourself.
the vehicle is going to cost (someone) in gas, insurance and maintenance, even if seldomly used.
the money is potentiall more wisely spent elsewhere providing you have a safe commute to/from campus.
vehicles are not an entitlement, but young people seem to think otherwise.
lot's of vehicles get hit / damaged / broken into on or near campus.
lots of young drivers away from home engage in risky behavior with their vehicles.
i could keep going...
i'm merely suggesting that you honestly assess the situation.
p.s. one of the great ways to meet someone who may turn out to be a lifelong friend or significant other is to mess their car up learning to drive. :shades:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
If your parents are buying the car, the deal should be negotiated by them.
If you're concerned about their "out of pocket" for a car, make this easy on them...
They don't know the market here. Just go to Edmund's TMV for the car they're willing to buy. Type in your zip code. Edmunds will spit out a general price for the car.
Or, go to Carsdirect.com using your zip code, and you should get a price that will be somewhat in the ball park.
Your idea for getting a "beater" just to drive around campus is a good one. Look in your local newspaper and see what's available from a private owner for the price range you're looking for.
When you have more specifics about the car you are interested in....model, year, options, mileage, condition, etc, we'll be better able to help you with the price.
What part of OH are you located? Which university are you attending?
I had to park my car in a satellite lot over a hour walk from my dorm over on the far edge of campus. I happened to have a chemistry class in a building only 10 minutes from that lot so on Fridays I would usually pick up my car and drive it back to the dorm where I could park on the weekend. There was this girl in that class who lived in the dorm next to mine and I would give her a ride back to the dorm so she wouldn't have to walk. She was very cute and seemed like a nice girl so I didn't mind giving her a ride and it was not like it cost me anything as I was driving anyway.
This went on for a few weeks and then one weekend she called asking to borrow my car. I said no because no one drives my car but me. She begged me and I still said no. She got mad and hung up the phone.
Next week she wouldn't sit with me anymore and wouldn't ride with me back to the dorm. The week after that she found a new friend, a sophomore with a brand new BMW that his parents bought him, to give her a ride back to the dorm.
We pretty much stopped talking after that and her roommate, who I went to High School with, played some very mean tricks on me. :mad: :confuse:
Moral of the story: People will take advantage of you when you have a car in college.
if you say "no" you tend to loose the superficial acquaintences real fast.
the campus i lived on wouldn't allow motor vehicles for freshman, and also demanded you live on campus. two very good rules for new college students IMHO.
by the time i was a junior, i had a family beater hand-me-down (VW rabbit manual + rust) which was just fine, but i seldom drove anywhere unless it was the weekend.
i was too busy focused on schoolwork and campus-based activities. my studies were my job since my folks were helping with tuition. i suppose if at the time i had to be employed to make up for tuition and fees, maybe a car would have been a necessity if on-campus work or local-transportation were impractical.
i graduated with loan debt, but manageable debt, and worked to build my credit before making my first car purchase (used). it wasn't until my third vehicle that i bought new.
i think this fiscal restraint and a good sense of where the money should go (pay down my loan obligations) was very important. this discipline has served me well in my later years as i'm sure it has others.
another lesson i learned, it's sometimes so tempting and easy to say "yes", and so much harder to just say "no".
if i had another point to make, it might be, it will bring you greater satisfaction to be self-made and able to afford your own new car purchase in the future.
i see many kids getting new BMWs or ACURAs or Jeeps in high-school, and I think, they'll actually be at a great disadvantage in the future because of their parent's poor decision making.
Oh yeah I fell hard for this girl as she was one of the three types that really knocked me over at the time.
Petite, Indian with Dark Raven hair and just a bit of a British accent. All of that would seriously compromise my judgment.
I didn't work for my first two years of college, I still worked at a shop during all school breaks, but I did work during the school year for my last three years.
I needed the car when I started working since the BT schedule didn't always line up with my work schedule.
My biggest bit of advice would be if you do get a car DO NOT under any circumstances let anyone else drive it. Also be very wary of people taking advantage of you. Especially girls that are way out of your league.
I am in your parents' position, having made an offer to buy a car for my rising college senior.
I'm letting him choose the car, but within certain parameters. (1) There is an on-the-road budget, and it's not enough for a new high-line car. (2) His choice has to make sense to me. Specifically, it has to be large enough to carry his gear to go camping, to buy medium-sized purchases, or to move short distances. A Scion tc is probably too small; a Subaru Impreza wagon is large enough. (3) The deal has to make sense. (4) I recommend, but don't require, new vs. used so that he can learn maintenance gradually and with less cost and risk. He is not mechanically inclined.
The offer is good through the summer after graduation, so he is not under (much) pressure to select before he is ready.
Because there are a lot more undergraduate than graduate students. Since you did not specify what kind of a student you are and the odds highly favor undergraduate status, it was quite reasonable to assume you were an undergraduate.
Aside from that, I think the only question you need to answer is whether you really need a car and, if the answer is yes, then people here will be happy to offer advice on how to get the best deal.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That is a state of mind. No girl was out of my league. If you had seen the car I had when I was a student you would realise that it was not necessarily a positive!
what is really interesting though, you are in a minority being a student (male or female) comming here and asking advice.
good for you.
you are even in more of a minority being female, and even more-so, a graduate student.
you indicated you were to learn how to drive. i'm not sure of percentages, but most kids living outside of NYC or other metroplolitan places served predominately by public transportation probably have their licenses before or shortly after entering college as an undergrad.
so, your rarity deserves special attention and recognition.
good luck in your decisions.
p.s. it's possible your folks just don't see you enough and want you to drive and see them... or maybe they were excessively cheap with you as a youngster, or maybe they need to shed some monetary inventory. i don't know. only you can determine what is right for you.
but it's been fun rehearsing what i'm gonna do when my kids come of age. so thanks.
Get some exercise. No cost, no fuel, no insurance, no bums(friends) asking you for a ride...
If they are concerned with winter and so on... and MUST buy you something new or slightly used, I suggest you get a couple of year old Wrangler or old 4x4(ie - a manual 4 cylinder Tacoma pickup) and still ride the bike to save gas. A Wrangler is good because it has no rear cargo area(well, the back seats DO fold down, but you don't have to tell your friends that), is bumpy, and so on - but also is indestructible and holds its value pretty well.
The Tacoma 4x4(standard cab) pickup is another good choice. Even new, it's about $18K, and used, it's closer to 10-12K for a perfectly good example. Great MPG as well.
But mostly use the bike.
Ohio doesn't work like California. Cars don't understand the concept of cycling as a form of transportation. Commuting by bike in Michigan involves taking your life in your hands as you roll out of the driveway. Also from November to February, it can be very uncomfortable. I still do it, but, I really can't recommend it; thats one of the main reasons its time for me to head back to the Golden State.
Also, you have to go over that budget to get a US made (as opposed to Taiwanese made) Trek. Maybe a Cannondale (although I think the CF ones are made abroad these days)
-Moo
Evidently, your degree is not in grammar! :P
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Lookins like yos not neither tidester. :P
They award degrees in English my good fellow...
not "grammar". :shades:
But to follow up with moo's thought. I've been following mypoints thread for the last 3 days, and still do not know what point mypoint is trying to make.
Of course the grammar course I took in college was really more linguistics which makes you wonder. Even the English department doesn't know about grammar?
I suppose really the question is of a spelling and usage major. That would be handy if you can nab a job as a troll in a place such as these. Not that I'm calling anyone a troll.....
-Moo
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Disclaimer: I bear no responsibility for any structural errors in this post and if you find any, blame them on the actual hosts of this discussion of whom I am not one. :shades:
-Moo
I've been very late joining this show. I've not been around to comment as this saga was unfolding but to answer your post; you can rest assured she ain't gettin no degree in that field. :surprise:
I can't believe what I've been reading here.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
I made an offer of exactly $17K with destination charge for a 2008 Toyota Corolla LE with antilock brakes and side airbags. It was rejected. The salesman wanted over $17600. He didn't seem to budge so I left. Do you have any tips?
Now I'm thinking of ordering a Corolla LE or Yaris 4-door with antilock brakes being the only option.
i don't know what your ultimate decision point will be, but your time and effort are worth something as well.
most people when they are within a few hundred $$$ - i think they believe they've thread the needle.
were you comparing apples to apples? the manual is going to be about 5-700 less than the automatic. did your TMV include the ABS (maybe 2-300 more) the side airbags (? cost) and the other stuff you were looking at?
if you are gonna go in guns blazing / hyper-calibrated, make sure you know what is included in your numbers.