Purchasing Used Vehicles

erics6

Local market is pretty competitive. There are a ton of Subies in the NW and VERY aggressive new car pricing that drives down the used car market. Brand new 07's are going for $18-$18.5k. 2005 wholesale is substantially less than $16k.

zodiac2004

I'm looking for a car with a nice manual tranny - thinking along the lines of a >94 Integra or a >95 Maxima.

Anybody have experience with those. Or any other similar cars. I prefer a 4 door, but open to 2 door as well.

I also need something any mechanic can work on, and should have a good supply of aftermarket parts.

Reliability and cost of maintenance/repair is also very important.

Suggestions, please.

j5pharm

I'm searching for a used crewcab pickup and when doing Carfax reports, many are coming up that the vehicle was used as a rental for some period of time. What is your opinion? As long as the report is clean and the car seems in good shape is it OK? Or should I not consider these at all?

johnv

I'm engaged in the same calculations. The rebates on the new subarus haven't pushed down the asking prices on the used. Its ridiculous that car is listed at $18k (and not surprising that they'd go to $16k).

I suppose the dealers are hoping someone foolish comes along, but $2k doesn't seem like a reasonable trade for the first 2 years of depreciation and 26k miles.

Here are TCO for the 2007 and 2005:
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/subaru/forester/100751989/cto.html
http://www.edmunds.com/used/2005/subaru/forester/100401119/cto.html

But I don't believe the 2007 depreciation shown! $5.6k in Y1? That is sure not reflected in the used prices!

cccompson

Both are great cars and miles don't really hurt either one. My son just sold his '95 Maxima today in order to buy a '99 Maxima.

searching1

I'm thinking of buying a Used 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport from the Infiniti dealer tomorrow. It appears to be priced about $8k lower than it should be (even for 22k miles). It's priced at $42k. The dealer says it was a 'Factory Executive Leased Vehicle' and that after a year, they sell those cars. I looked up the AutoCheck report and it has 4 entries:

1. Odometer Reading from DMV
2. Registration
3. Title
4. (1.5 years later) Auto Auction - Reported at Auto Auction as Manufacturer Vehicle

It has no reports of any accidents or anything.

What does that mean? Is it a mistake to buy this car?

Please respond ASAP!
Thanks!

stickguy

Not a mistake to purchase a car for a good price. If it makes you feel better, offer them more!

j/k on the more part...

anyway, quite often slightly used cars like that are put on the lot with a wildly inflated price. It is quite possible that they priced this one aggressively to move it. You will know for sure if you diddle about for a coupole of days, realize it was a good deal, and find out it is long gone.

Check the value on edmunds (used car pricing), and post on the "real world trade in values" thread too, to get a good idea of wholesale/retail.

As to the carfax, it looks normal, I assume that manufacturers vehicle means it was never title to a retail buyer (make sure it doesn't say manufacturers BUYBACK, aka a lemon law car!). I'm sure the dealer could prove it was a copr car if you want them to.

You can also take it to get inspected by a mechanic to make sure it was never in an accident and had body work.

Nice cars though. I wouldn't mind having one! I assume it was probably mid-50's new MSRP? So 42K for a 2006 doesn't seem tha low given the high miles. No way I pay near 50K for that car.

searching1

Thanks. I'm feeling better about it now that I've done some research and their story seems to match the history. I think I'll see if I can find out from CarMax or some other car buyer if they deduct a lot of money on cars when they buy them with a history like this. Also - I noticed on CarFax after I posted that it says the title type was "Corporate Fleet Vehicle" which I think means it was a rental or lease (lease matches their story).

qbrozen

yes, the carfax matches the dealer's story. It would have no affect on value.

BUT, take stickguy's advice and get it checked over if you seriously think the price is too low. There are accidents every day that don't show up on carfax for various reasons.

sll58

Never bought via the internet before. I inquired about a certified 2006 S60 that I found on a dealer web site. Dealer is about 100 mi away from me. Without me even asking him to, the dealer dropped the price $1,400, which is a bit under the dealer retail TMV. Are they just hot to sell this car, or should I be concerned? Car has 14K miles, which seems like a lot for a 1 year old car. If they're just hot to get it off the lot, approx what should my starting offer be if they're starting at $27K? I haven't bought a car in about 13 years so am really rusty at negotiation - now have a Camry that will probably run forever, but I'm tired of looking at it and have been lusting over an S60 for a couple of years now. However, it won't kill me to continue to wait for the right deal. Thanks in advance for the negotiation advice.

cccompson

Buying long distance has its own issues. Buying long distance used can be a dicey proposition.

First, spend $25 on a month's subscription to Carfax and run this one. That mileage doesn't sound like any big deal at all - brand new cars tend to get driven alot.

Second, do some research to see what these things sell for (actual ebay sales is one resource) to help you calculate your strategy. Being certified adds to the price.

Late model used cars typically have quite a bit of mark-up and so I wouldn't draw any conclusion from their unprompted price drop except that they see you as a serious buyer and want you to come in. Personally, I'd think you could do better in person than over the net.

In either event, should you conclude a deal make it contingent upon your inspection of the vehicle.

sll58

Thanks - I do plan on visiting the dealer in person as its only a 2 hour drive. From everything I've seen, the price they're quoting me does seem quite fair, given the car's amenities, but I'll do a bit more research and go from there.

qbrozen

Well, first off, I usually find Edmunds TMV dealer retail quite high, so don't go by that.

Second, over the past few years, near the end of each model year, S60s have seen HEAVY discounts. We're talking loaded up T5s for under $30k.

You really should visit the Real-World Trade-In Values and ask for an accurate value. Volvomax frequents that discussion, so he may be the best qualified to help you ... just look at his name.

iwasaudrey

I'm interested in purchasing/financing either a Jeep Compass or a Jeep Patriot. I'd rather not take the depreciation hit. How long does it usually take before the vehicles start coming back to the dealerships used with a few miles on them? I know the Patriot isn't even at any dealerships around here yet but the Compass has been for a few months.

Also, I applied for a loan with my credit union a couple of months ago and was denied. I had only been at my job for two months and was/am making less than a desirable amount of income ($1000 a month gross income). I have now been at the job for four and 1/2 months and am getting a second job. I will only be working that job on the weekends (to keep length of employment going) and will be working at this new job full-time. Combining pay from both jobs I should be making about $2700 (gross income) a month. I have had credit cards since June of 2006 so my credit is still new. I have about $900 in credit card debt (between three cards) but plan on paying that off before I attempt to finance anything. I have no other payments in my name aside from Blockbuster Online. I have no other debt. My question is, if I pay off my credit cards and save up to make a $1000-$2000 down payment do you think I will have a good chance of getting approved? I know only the bank can tell me for sure, but I was hoping for some opinions.
By the way, I have been with the credit union since 2005 and my credit score is 685 (I know this can vary by agency).

drolly

Well, first off, I usually find Edmunds TMV dealer retail quite high, so don't go by that.

Couldn't agree more. Never go by the TMV. Seems to be an artificial way for a dealer to combat customers who know things like wholesale price, KBB trade-in value, etc.

jipster

When buying from a dealership I would aim for Edmunds TMV trade-in up to TMV private party, certainly not TMV dealer retail.

kevinus35

Could any one who has carfax membership check this vehicle history:
VIN: JTHBE262565000519
Truly appreciate,
Kevin

kevinus35

Could any one can check this vehicle:
VIN: JTHBE262565000519

Thanks,
Kevin

cccompson

Not much to report on this '06 Lexus IS350, Kevin. It was sold new in California in 10/05 and that is really the only record showing on it.

kevinus35

Thank you very much

shr30

Hi all,
I posted in the other value used car forum ,but figured this is more appropriate!
I want a good no-maintanance hassle car for work commute and am debating a 2002 jetta mid level model with 60k miles - certified in houston by clearlake vw for about 10k which I want to bargain down (what is reasonable?)
OR a 2002 jetta with 110k miles with leather n the works for about 7500 or so but no warranty from a private party.(what should I offer as a good price)
I am not sure if the cert. is worth the extra money.
I also had a 2002 vr6 jetta from a dealer who was selling it at 6500 - seemed fishy, so i didnt even pursue it - it is 2k below market value.
I dont actually know if i want a jetta.
Just want a simple sedan/hatchback for <8k with low miles.
Any advice on a reliable used car dealer in houston who will give me a good deal/advice?
I am without a car and internet shopping which makes like a heck of a lot harder.
Suggestions/other ideas are welcome!
THanks
rShreenath AT the mail that is gmail :confuse:

cccompson

My two cents here, shr30, is to steer clear of VWs if you want a hassle-free commuter car. If you must, among those you described go with the 60K model. Certified cars command a premium that is probably worthwhile if the vehicle is super nice.

Here's what I'd suggest instead. Buy privately from an original owner. Mileage is not as critical on the better used cars (Nissan, Honda, Toyota, etc.) as they do last if properly cared for. Craigslist, Autotrader, and local suburban papers are the best sources. Be flexible as to model, color, and equipment. Camrys seem to me to be especially good for the money (local paper here today has an '01 5 speed with 70K for 8). Spend $25 for a month of carfax access and check history before you go and look at anything.

shr30

Hi cccompson and thanks for your suggestions.
In that case, I have it knocked down to a
2000 civic with only 30k miles for about 7k (auto private) or a 2001 sentra (stick) with 2.0l engine with 75k miles for about 5.5k with airconditioner which needs to be fixed.(private)
The original certified vw.. how much do you think the dealer might budge with 10800? I wanted to shoot for 8.5k but i think it might be a lowball and she will refuse. its at a vw dealership and been there since 18th jan.
OR going to a dealer tommorow for acura/some other car straight from them!
Thnaks a lot for your help
Shr30

cccompson

Low mileage Hondas are just about impossible to find so you'd be well advised to grab it, even at a premium price - you'll get it back later and then some. Even if you later decide you don't like it, you'll be able to easily sell it at little or no loss.

I'm not familiar with the Jetta market. Take a look at what they have recently sold for on ebay to get an idea of what it's worth. The problem with making an offer (let's say $8500) is not that you'll be turned down (big deal - the worst they can say is no) but that you'll be sucked into a dragged out negotiation and end up agreeing to a price higher than you'd like. There's a reason that dealers make lots of money on used cars. If they've had it for only two weeks they're not going to be willing to give it away. Decide just how high you'll go before you commence negotiations and don't exceed that number.

metro123

I'd jump on that Civic right away if I were you. I recently looked for a second car to commute in and narrowed it down to a four or five year old civic or corolla. I had an extremely difficult time finding a clean, low mileage car. Most had tons of miles or were all banged up or hot rodded. When I did find a nice one at a dealer, they wanted top dollar and have this "we don't need to deal on clean low mileage civics because everyone wants them" attitude. I'd stay away from those VW's. A buddy had a new beetle and had nothing but problems. Good luck.

zodiac2004

Can someone extend the favor to a car I'm considering -

JH4DC4345YS803786.

Pretty please

tidester

http://www.carfax.com/cfm/check_order.cfm?VIN=JH4DC4345YS803786&PopUpStatus=0

tidester, host

zodiac2004

http://www.carfax.com/cfm/check_order.cfm?VIN=JH4DC4345YS803786&PopUpStatus=0

tidester, host

What exactly is in this link, Thomas?

cccompson

They have damn little info on this 2000 Integra SE which was sold new for personal use in 8/00, evidently in the Toronto area. The only other reference is a visit to a service facility in 2/01 when the mileage was 5500.

zodiac2004

Thanks.
I guess no news is good news, right?

tidester

What exactly is in this link, Thomas?

It was a link to the CarFAX report.

tidester, host

cccompson

Yeah, but to get any use out of it one has to sign up.

cccompson

Yes but take it with a grain of salt. How can I put this politely? I've found carfax records to be less than perfect from time to time.

zodiac2004

Yes but take it with a grain of salt. How can I put this politely? I've found carfax records to be less than perfect from time to time

I know. Thanks for checking it for me.

The car checks out pretty good. Single owner claimed since day one - serviced at the same Acura dealer.

The only thing I need to check is if the VIN matches the one on the car - I testdrove the car yesterday but forgot to check it.
The car is a 2000 Integra SE. 5-spd, silver -with a spoiler and alloys. I thought the Canadian SE's came with a sunroof - but this one doesn't have one.
125000 Kms (Canada).
I have negotiated a price of $7600 Canadian.
Any idea how good/bad the deal is?

Kirstie_H

Request that other members provide a fee-for-service report for free. Carfax is a business and makes money by selling these reports. It's not ethical to ask someone who has paid for this service to give it to you to avoid payment. Thank you.

ucdustin

There's a 2006 Mini Cooper S I have my eye on at the local BMW dealer here in Los Angeles. The CarFax report says that the car was sold at an auto auction last month in Pennsylvania. It was listed as a manufacturer vehicle. Does anyone know what this could mean?

http://www.carfax.com/cfm/ccc_DisplayHistoryRpt.cfm?partner=ATD_W&vin=WMWRE33516- TJ36465

Could someone with an AutoCheck account check it's VIN, WMWRE33516TJ36465

Thanks for any help.

Dustin

kyfdx

BMW NA headquarters is in New Jersey...

One of the biggest auto auctions is in Manheim, PA..

Chances are, it was an executive company car, or a BMW employee lease... they are typically one year or less..

Have the car checked for previous body work... other than that, there should be no issues..

ucdustin

Thanks for the quick reply kyfdx!

shr30

Could you tell me the price you get that for or that it is offered for?

isellhondas

If you are looking for a trouble free car, stay as far away from anything Volkswagen as possible!

soukbomb

So I am looking to buy a Grand Cherokee Loredo 2007. Used with 7k miles. The sticker is 24,995. The dealer has dropped it to 23,995. My wife has a 4runner - (worth around 4,500 to 5200) 1998 140k miles and she still owes 5,400 on it. I said I would be back after I sold the car and paid it off. He said "I will cut a check for 5k right now and we can get that out of the way." He then offered this 2007 Cherokee for 22,995 again and said we could work towards a 400 dollar payment based on her credit. She is between a 635 to a 670. When I crunch the numbers I see this as a relatively good deal. Wondering if I am missing something. She would also like a Pathfinder, so I may look that way and see if another dealer will pay off her car. I was shocked he offered this, as I am pretty sure I would have trouble getting 5k in the open market. Any advice???

cccompson

No need to be shocked - he wants a sale. The real question is what can you buy the Jeep for if a trade is no longer in the equation. My guess is 22 or less.

I am almost certain you can privately sell that Toyota for 5 or (maybe much) more. 'Course, it depends on options and condition but the mileage doesn't hurt it all that much, at least not like other iron.

dtownfb

I agree with cccompson and will add, did the salesmen ever say what the terms of the loan would be with a $400 payment?

Also if the 4Runner is a SR5, 4WD and automatic, he knows he can sell it for about $8000. Do yourself a favor and go over to the "used car values" forum in the smart shopper section. there are few guys who deal with auctions and can give you a good idea what you might be able to sell your 1998 4Runner for. Ask them for a "trade-In" and "private sales" value.

The big question for you is the Grand Cherokee priced low enough that it is worth it to make this deal. You'll have to do some research on the new price of the GC minus the 7k miles. I would use the invoice price and not MSRP. Also factor in any rebates since they directly lower the price of the vehicle.

jasmith52

Well out in Socal the incentives on new 07' Grand Cherokees are $3500 or greater. So the way I look at it you could get a brand new unit for around $24k.

With that in mind a used one for $22k doesn't strike me as that great a deal.

honk2

Hello. I have been looking for a 2006 SL Murano AWD with less then 10,000 miles for while. I even have two independent dealers (from different geographical areas) that go to auctions looking for me with no success.

I saw a 2006 AWD Murano SE, Touring Package (leather, sunroof, fog lights), Trailer Hitch, No Navigation, 16,000 Miles, Priced at $29,500. Was owned by the the Service Manager at the dealership (turned in wanted a bigger SUV) Since the dealer is over 2 hours away, I called and asked for their best price. Because I am not going to drive all the way there to play price games.
They came back at $27,800.

One of my dealers did see a 06 Murano AWD SL 10,000 miles Black (not my first choice) sell at auction for $26,200. His fee and expenses would have cost me another 2K.

Based on this information what do you think of the quote I got.

frenchv

I may want to trade in my car, I owe 21k and the car I want to buy is around 18k.

If the stealership give me lets say.. give me 19k for my trade in, can they roll over the negative to the price of the car I want?

But doing all this using my own car loan from my bank not the stealership's financing.

Can they do that?

tidester

For a very modest price you can get it yourself directly from CARFAX: http://www.carfax.com/cfm/check_order.cfm?VIN=WBAVB13586PT17065&PopUpStatus=0

tidester, host

tidester

I think it's best if we avoid broadbrushing an industry and individuals with inflammatory names like "stealership."

tidester, host

qbrozen

Hi french, I responded to you in real-world trade-in values.

frenchv

My sincere apologies. No disrepect intended.