Got a Quick, Technical Question?

zaken1

Before even buying a compression gauge (assuming you already have a spark plug socket) pull all the plugs and inspect them in sunlight or under a bright light. If the plug center insulators are all wet; there probably is a head gasket leak that is allowing coolant into the cylinders, and is wetting the plugs. if you crank the starter with the plugs out, and coolant shoots out of the spark plug openings; the head gasket is GONE. The head may also be cracked or warped; so if the head is pulled; it should be checked for both cracks and warpage by a competent machine shop.

A screw in type gauge is much easier to use than a push in gauge. Remove all the spark plugs and disconnect one of the primary wires from the ignition coil before running the compression test. Crank the motor through four compression strokes on each cylinder (the needle will jump on each compression stroke), and write down each reading. The compression pressure should be somewhere between 150 and 180 psi in each cylinder. There should be less than 15% difference between the lowest and highest readings. If the compression is less than 125 psi on all cylinders; the timing belt or chain has jumped out of synch or broken. If most cylinders have good pressure; but one or two adjacent cylinders read a lot lower than the rest; there is a bad head gasket. Just one low compression cylinder could mean either a burned or stuck valve in that cylinder. Ongoing substantial coolant loss or coolant in the oil or oil in the radiator indicate a head gasket problem.

A head gasket leak can also be confirmed by buying a hand pump type cooling system pressure tester that fits the size radiator filler opening used on your truck; filling the radiator to the top, inserting the gauge into the radiator filler neck, and pumping 14 psi pressure up on the gauge. If the pressure drops by 5 psi or more in the first minute; there is a severe coolant leak. If there is no sign or an external leak; it is most likely being lost through the head or head gasket.

The previous heating problems which led to the thermostat removal; along with the heating problems experienced after the thermostat was installed; all scream "bad head gasket".

stever

A journalist would like to speak to someone who fuels up with 85 octane and has experienced engine issues or a weaker performance at lower elevations because of it. If you use or have used 85 octane, and would like to share your story with a reporter, please send your daytime contact info to pr@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, June 20 at 2 p.m. Pacific/5 p.m. Eastern.

herc76

Hello,

I have been out of the country for about a year. So while I was gone my Integra has been sitting without being driven. What are the issues that I need to resolve before I can start driving it again?

colin_l

Drain the gas tank and replace the battery. Air up the tires. Then try to start it.

If it starts, go to gas station (I'm assuming you will put in only 1-2 gallons from a container) and fill 'er up and put in a bottle of Techron. Drive home and let the engine cool somewhat, then change the oil and filter.

Viola! Ready to drive.

herc76

I was told there is a chance that the fluids would need to be replaced. Is that true?

Thanks

colin_l

Are you planning to do this work yourself, or have a shop do it?

I advised you to drain and refill the gas and engine oil. The other fluids in the vehicle such as transmission fluid, engine coolant and differential oil will be fine.

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe an oil change once you get it all warmed up and running for a few days---but generally, colin's advice is right on.

The only snag here is whether the degraded fuel will foul anything else up...hopefully not if you never start it up until all of it is drained. Adding fresh to foul won't do it, so don't try it.

herc76

All,
Thanks for the feedback.

roscoe12

4.3 v6 automatic 124000 miles.how can you tell if you have a bad ball joint? what noises does it make? and is it all the time or every once in a while if it is bad the noise it makes?

thanks roscoe12

Mr_Shiftright

Sometimes they can squeak loudly when you turn but generally the only sure way to test a bad ball joint is to jack the car so that the ball joint is not "loaded"and then put a lever under it and see how much it moves up and down...anything more than 1/8th inch is toast.

qbrozen

what year bmw?

msrose59

We continue to have problems with the left rear light. So far we have replaced:
1) Fuses
2) Wiring Harness
3) Brake light switch (even tho the right side has no problems)

We were told it may be a wire---so- all wires are encased in a protective covering and none of that shows any wear. What may be the problem there and will it take a garage to locate this?

donnie6609

I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu 2.2 4 cyl. Automatic with 136,000 miles on it that started having a gas odor I smelled while I had the heat or air on. I was told that it was a injector going bad. Now it is jerking while sitting at a stop light or a stop sign like someone is tapping the rear bumper. The rpm's also drop about 100 when this takes place. The jerking is getting worse and is now even doing it while driving. Also losing power on hilly roads. It is in the shop now and had the # 3 injector replaced. I went tonight to go pick it up and as soon as I put it in drive it was doing the same issue. Has anybody else ever had this issue? HELP!!!!!

Mr_Shiftright

Does this mechanic own a scan tool? Sounds like a misfire--any trouble codes showing up?

blinebear

I have a 1990 Chevy S10 p/u 6 cyl 4.3 engine. When I first start the vehicle the oil gauge registers normal. After driving for awhile the gauge starts bouncing all over the place and eventually drops to the point that the check gauge comes on. I do't hear any knocking and check the oil regularly. Ask suggestions?

Mr_Shiftright

I think the first thing I'd do is insert a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see how the readings go. If the mechanical gauge does the same thing, then I think you should check the oil filter, the oil pressure relief valve and as a final procedure, drop the pan and check for clogged oil pump pickup screen, bent or missing oil pump pickup tube, and if nothing is apparent there, then pull the oil pump and spec it out with a feeler gauge as per workshop manual instructions.

Of course, if the mechanical gauge works perfectly, then you have a problem with the oil pressure sender or the gauge itself.

Start from the simple and go to the complex with something like this. Don't start tearing the engine apart just yet.

curbaniu

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer that has a leak on the driver's side rear quarter panel window. It started as a small leak and now it literally just pours into the car. It seems to be coming from the top of the black seal around the outside of the window.

How do you fix this leak?

1998 Ford Explorer
Automatic Transmission
256,000 miles

Mr_Shiftright

I'd recommended trying a LATEX, clear caulk as used for house windows. Being latex, it will wash up with water, and although it goes on "white", it dries perfectly clear.

Unlike messy ghastly silicon adhesive sealants, this stuff can be applied with a wet finger and the excess wiped clean with a damp cloth.

jerry183

My sons 1994 Chrysler Concorde auto. 6 cyl. 3.3- 140,000 mi. is leaking underneath front.
He ran over sharp concrete while parking and cant identify the part that is leaking.
Any help, diagram, photo-link to info. much appreciated--Thanks!

http://s51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/Jerry32/?action=view&current=IMG_1534.mp4-

victor_gallagh

Looks like 'Coolant' leaking, drips like water & antifreeze. Check the lower part of the 'Radiator' and the 'Radiator Hoses'.

jerry183

Thanks so much for your reply.
This car is so hard to get up under as so low to the ground-I may have to buy a floor jack to lift it up.
I don't have much confidence in using the tire jack as the leak is way up under there and towards the middle, + car is so rusted (and heavy!) that what little life insurance I have wouldn't be worth it!
I am attaching a few pics & looks almost like leak is coming from pan? Is that the oil pan or? Just trying to ID before I go to next step--thanks so much!

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/Jerry32/Stephencarleak.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/Jerry32/steecarleak2b.jpg

colin_l

Jerry, you don't own a floor jack and you are considering repairing this yourself? That seems like it might be a bad idea.

I guess if you're just asking so that you already have a second opinion before the mechanic has a look, that is more reasonable.

imidazol97

I suggest a set of ramps for the car. I made my own out of 2x10s that I had. I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle and made the lengths so there was about 2 inches of flat then the next board ends. Top is about 14 inches long and I have 5 layers, I believe, nailed together. DRive up on that and I can crawl under anywhere to get a look safely.

Otherwise be sure to use jackstands carefully placed for support. I just read about someone dying under his car using a jack that let go.

jerry183

Well frankly colin-was thinking about doing it myself however upon further review that task is way over my head "pun intended!"

But I had just finished putting a radiator in my other sons infiniti and figured this would be a piece of cake. However the infiniti had lots of clearance underneath and of course access under the hood but the Concourse is really low to the ground and no chance even considering it.

But thanks for making me think about it and everyones input.
I have limited space in garage for ramps or much else and this DIY not gonna work for me this time but thanks again to all!


"Jerry, you don't own a floor jack and you are considering repairing this yourself? That seems like it might be a bad idea."
 
"I guess if you're just asking so that you already have a second opinion before the mechanic has a look, that is more reasonable."

bveque

Recently I have been experiencing starting issues with my 04. In the morning when it is cold outside, the truck absolutely will not start. It will crank but wont fire. If I leave the truck for a few hours, and the tempurature comes up outside, the truck will fire right up.

Do you possibly know what the issue is here, or maybe can guide me in the right direction?

Thanks for any and all help.

jipster

Just bought a new Hyundai Veracruz. Has a sealed transmission, no dipstick. You always hear about checking your level and fluid condition with trans oil, why a closed unit?

Owners manual says no need to change if used under normal conditions, change at 30k miles if used in severe conditions. First of all, in reading owners manual, seems if only a very small percentage of vehicles would fall under normal conditions. Everyone drives in either hot or cold weather at some point. Maybe more people screw up their trans by checking with dirty rags, too often, or fluid flushes. Any thoughts?

obyone

With the 10 year/ 100K mile warranty I wouldn't worry about it. I'd check the details of the warranty first though.

qbrozen

This has become the norm, I think.

Both our T&C and 135i have no dipstick. However, I have now changed the fluid on both at 50k miles. On the bimmer, there are drain and fill plugs. Unfortunately, to change the filter, you have to change the whole pan! On the chrysler, there is no drain. To get the fluid out, you do have to drop the pan. There is no replaceable filter on this one, though. There is, however, a fill hole that is suspiciously shaped like a dipstick tube.

In both cases, I measured the fluid I removed and (at least attempted to) replaced with like amount. I was not able to get the same amount of fluid back into the bimmer's trans, which gives me a small worry. :confuse:

What is really troubling in all of this, however, is the manufacturers' attitudes. I called a dealership in each case. Both were adamant that you don't touch the fluid... it is lifetime. Oh really? Then why does ZF, you know, that little company that actually MADE the bimmer's transmission, state you should change the fluid and filter every 50k?!! So bolting this trans into a car with the propeller badge magically changes its longevity?! Or does it have to do with the fact that a bimmer warranty is up at 50k? Hmmmm...

I didn't really bother much with the chrysler dealer. I had had it with them anyway. But I did badger the bimmer dealer a bit more. I questioned why, if it is lifetime and they won't change it, even at my request, they sell the fluid and filter at their parts counter. After some hemming and hawing, they finally agreed that they COULD change it, but it would cost me AT LEAST $800. :sick:

I did it myself for $200.

bveque

... anybody?

stickguy

will post this here, in case anyone has suggestions.

my son has a 2000 Acura TL with him at college. 170K, but runs great. Until last weekend. Driving along, starts to lose electric (dash getting wonky, warning lights coming n (ABS/TCS etc.). runs rough, and dies. Gets a jump, makes it a few blocks, ties again. Gets towed to Honda dealer, they can't even jump. Put a new battery in, fires right up. They test the alternator, and say it is charging, so good to go.

2 days later, after a few mile drive to the store, starts doing the exact same thing, then totally dies and won't restart. almost made it to the dealer (1/2 mile away!), so needs another tow.

well, I talk to them today (he left it last night and they say it started right up, and is running fine. Battery was charged, and alternator is putting out. So they were driving it around the lot, trying to get it to act up, but nothing. Said they looked at the obvious stuff (the grounds they could see, loose cables I assume) and nothing. No fault codes stored either.

so , it does not seem to be any of the obvious culprits, and of course these intermittent issues can be nasty to track down, but if anyone has ideas on out of the box items to look at, it would be appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

faulty voltage regulator?

stickguy

cars still have voltage regulators? I remember changing one on a 1985 horizon. though I am sure if they still exist, they are a whole lot more expensive and complicated!

hopefully, that is something logical for them to check (assuming you easily can).

srs_49

Still sound to me like it might be the alternator. The car runs fine for a day or day when the battery is new, right? And then you start to lose electrical power?

When it dies, were you able to put it on a charger and see if recharging the battery helps?

We had an '85 Caprice wagon. I replaced the alternator belt on it one day. After doing that, the car would run fine for a day or two or three, then start to die from losing electrical power (dash would dim, headlights would dim, etc). Charge up the battery again and all would be fine for a day or so. Anyway, I discovered that the alternator belt was the wrong style, and was slipping on the alternator pulley (even though there was no telltale squeal). So the car was essentially running off the battery alone, which of course would discharge over time. Replacing the belt solved the problem.

stickguy

It did (per the dealer) turn out to be a dying alternator that would work sometimes. Finally failed while they had the car. so, cross fingers that the new one will cure the problem.

Mr_Shiftright

Well a regulator is listed for the car---it might be built into the alternator however.

salarae61080

2004 Ford Escape.
V6
126k give or take....
Headlights (low&high) and odometer back lighting flicker rapidly-very noticably, like mild strobbing. NOT like when they dim&brighten when idling. Battery is new, as well as alternator&starter (auto shop tested&all GOOD!...told me cars just act "funny" sometimes-it's been a month&no change at all!!). It has become VERY noticable while driving (begins within 5 mins of starting the truck). Any ideas are much appreciated, as I'm rather frustrated with the auto shop.....

bolivar

As a wild guess, I would think the 'new' alternator has a problem or you have loose connection/s. What appears to be overcharging (higher than normal voltage could cause the brightness) could be coming from the alternator. I have no idea where the voltage regulator is at in your car. I think it's been many years since this component has been a separate item. On some cars the regulator is inside the alternator. In some it is now part of one of the main 'computers'.

It could also be as simple as a loose connection. With new battery, alternator, and starter there are several places that might not have been tightened down correctly. The high resistance from a loose connection might be forcing the alternator to throw out higher than usual charging voltages.

First, you need someone to go over all the stuff that was replaced. Looking especially for loose connections. Then might demand the alternator be replaced. I saw a 'test' of an alternator several years ago. They spin the drive up, then push a screwdriver into a hole in the back. If the alternator then puts out the max voltage and amps, it passes. No real test if it might be overcharging all the time, etc. As I said, this was a GM alternator about 20 years ago.

oldfarmer50

I understand that some unscrupulous sellers, usually curbstoners will hide a blown head gasket by the addition of some sort of sealant to the coolant. This temporary fix usually fails sometime later leading to an expensive fix or ruined engine.

Is there any way to detect that this was done? Does this require a trip to the shop or is there some "paper towel" test that can reveal this type of fix so you can eliminate a lemon early on before you have to spend the time and effort on a mechanic?

oldfarmer50

"...warning lights coming on...runs rough then dies..."

A few weeks ago (probably when you posted) I had a similar problem with the old van. Dash warning lights, bucking, loss of power and then dead. Turned out the battery had come loose and the positive terminal hit the cross member. Shorted out the battery and welded it to the metal. A few kicks and a jump got it started right up.

I'd go back and look for something grounding out the electrical system.

Mr_Shiftright

head gasket sealers are rarely successful, and a good hard test run should expose the problem if it exists. Also you can check for signs of overheating in the engine bay, including coolant spill residue on the radiator, front of the engine, or stuck to the hood overhead.

There are also cars which are far more susceptible to head gasket failures, so you'd be doubly cautious on those, as you would on any turbo or supercharged cars---any kind of 'boost' mechanism exploits engine weaknesses ruthlessly.

oldfarmer50

"... A good hard test run..."

So you're saying get it out on the highway and get the RPMs up under full throttle? What happens, does the sealer pop out and the engine overheat? Would make for an interesting conversation with the seller when you return with his car smoking and sputtering only to say "no thanks".

Mr_Shiftright

I'm not saying ABUSE it :P ...just get it into a little sweat so that the engine is at normal operating range and the RPMs are not loafing. Consider it the same as the stress test you take on the treadmill at the doctor's office. He's not out to kill you (usually), only test you.

euphonium

When during your "stress test" & driven by a buyer, the engine fails, is not the buyer responsible for the repairs because the car was in his care, custody, and control when the damage occurred? After all, the car was fine before it was "stressed".

trinere

Hello:

Just like to know what exactly is wrong with the automatic transmission only able to shift from neutral to drive and not to park and reverse. Started happening in April 2011 and has been happening 2-3 times working after minutes trying to bring it to reverse or park. Now it is getting worse.

Any step by step help on fixing this problem is very much appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

unfortunately, there is no way to definitively diagnose a modern automatic transmission based on symptoms.

First off I would check the fluid level of course, and if it hasn't been changed in a while, new fluid and filter is a cheap way to approach the problem---probably won't help, but you know, you never know.

Along with that, I'd scan the car for trouble codes stored by the TCM, and see if there are any hints there.

I'm guessing some kind of stuck valve body mechanism, or, in the worst case, internal damage. But let's hope for the best when you start investigating the problem more.

Mr_Shiftright

No, the buyer isn't responsible unless there were some actual evidence of abuse. Anyone can sue anybody for anything, but lotsa luck winning that one in court.

trinere

Thanks for the reply.

This morning when I went to park the car I had to keep moving the shifter up and down to try to get it in reverse since no one was around to help me push the car. After almost an hour of forcefully moving the shifter up and down it somehow pushed up to the reverse gear. It would not shift to park.

The brakes is fine according to the brake lights.

So as of Friday morning the car shifts to reverse, neutral, and drive.

bolivar

Almost sounds like a linkage problem rather than a mechanical/electrical problem inside the transmission.

llf3

hello, first time on this forum, so im just going to ask away:

im trying to change into winter tyres. they are on steel wheels.

summer tyres were put on by dealer after a maintenance.

from the manual, the tightening torque for summer tyres' aluminium wheels should be "74 to 89 lbf·ft (100 to 120 N·m, 10 to 12 kgf·m)"
so I set the torque wrench at 85. which is NOTHING. I had to force way more to get the summer tyres' nuts loose. Then I set the wrench at 100, which is still quite easy to set loose.
So i'm wondering if all this is normal or is my wrench faulty. it is a new tool after all.

Or should I just use a regular wrench and tighten it to the max :confuse:

thanks

srs_49

85 ft-lbs should not feel like "NOTHING", IMO. If your torque wrench is ~18 inches long, you would still have to apply around 60 lbs of force to get to the 85 ft-lbs of torque. 60 lbs is not NOTHING, at least it's not to me!