Got a Quick, Technical Question?

crkyolfrt

edit: sorry, my post should have been replied to llf3, the original poster with the question.

- also, where i said T bar, I meant the old fashioned push/pull of an X cross bar. They're the best unless one of your arms is a 22 incher and the other is only a 10.

I may have misunderstood your post and now can't see it to refer to as I type.

But it seems like you have used the torque wrench to 'loosen' the nuts. This is a very bad practice as it will throw (especially a click type) t wrench right outta calibration on first nut.

If the aluminum are rated as you said, I would use the same for steel wheels, assuming we are talking about an average sedan of 3500lb or so?

Then there is the potential debate of whether the rating is on dry or lubed threads. Usually these ratings are stated with a dry thread intention. I have been lubing my threads (but try to not get any nevrseize on the actual taper flange that seats the wheel) for 40 years with nary as issue or warped rotor. Others have warped them when it was out of my control, and hence why i never let anyone touch them. Generally speaking, lubed threads use a lighter ftlb torque. I use a T bar and i can feel the consistency between the staggers as I torque them up by hand. If mine are tested they are all virtually what I torque them to as 75ftlb. Never had an issue. I do check them twice over the winter and summer season and they seem to always hold consistent. YMMV since i do not know your skill using a T bar. One thing is probably for sure now tho...I'll bet you can use a T bar carefully acknowledging the force between them and be a lot closer than your present (unfortunately abused by accident) T wrench will do. Just don't have the wife or kids come out and talk to youy as you are manually torquing. If your wrench was a really good one, maybe consider investing to have it re-calibrated and never lend it out after. I also leave mine unweighted and always in the house or where ever it is most dry and the temperature is most consistent throughout the year. Definitely don't leave it in 120+¼ sunlight while you go in for lunch and a little squeeze with the honey before heading back out.

llf3

hello
I did not use the torque wrench to loose summer wheels. I used a breaker bar

I did not lube the threads..

the torque wrench is a click type, a relatively cheap one I got from canadian tires. I read a few articles about torque wrench online beforehand, and I'd think I am using it correctly. it just felt so easy to hear the "click".

hehe

to add some detail:

when i was taking off the summer set, I was on my knees, had to put my shoulder weight into it to get it loose. then with the torque wrench, I just relax, the ~18 in long t wrench did all the job.

toklar

I want to get a scanner for a used 2007 Toyota RAV4 I want to purchase.
Can someone recommend any in particular?
I want to scan really really deep and do a lot of DIY

bolivar

Well, the guy that put on your 'summer' tires probably used an air impact wrench which put who knows what torque on the nuts. That's why it took a lot to break them loose.

In general, most cast wheels (aluminum or chrome) call for 100 ft-pounds.
If your wheel is a basic steel wheel, I think it would be less, and 85 ft-lbs sounds about right.

bolivar

Well, I think a GM 'Tech II' runs about $2,000 and some even more.

I bought a basic code reader from somewhere (Amazon, Sears, ????) for about $40.

I think you need to do some research on what code structure your RAV4 needs. There are different codes for different autos. What you are asking is not a simple question.

hpmctorque

My car is a 1988 Nissan 300 ZX 2+2, V6 (naturally aspirated), 5-speed manual, 198,640 miles. It has been well maintained and never driven in an abusive way. Problem: According to my mechanic and another one I've consulted, the throwout bearing has gone out. Upon doing a quick Google search I found the following description of the symptoms I've noticed...

"You depress the clutch pedal and hear a loud grinding, rattling, whirling noise. You ease off the clutch pedal, and the noise starts to dissipate."

The main difference is my car makes the grinding, whirring noise (more or less; and sometimes more, sometimes less) when the clutch is released and the car is moving rather than when it's depressed.

Of course 198,640 miles is a lot of miles, but I thought that manual transmissions usually last considerably longer if they're driven with care. Is mine the exception?

I replaced the original clutch at about 160,000 miles. The engine runs as though its got a lot of life left, and burns virtually no oil.

Although I'm going to dispose of this car, I'd welcome the comments of those who've had experience with manual transmissions that have failed because this puzzles me. I know that most automatics don't make it to 200,000 miles, but I expected a manual to live longer.

maxeybilly

I'm sure you have your reasons, but imho a bad throwout bearing is NO reason to scrap any car that runs well and burns almost no oil at 198k! I'd say you have a jewel that simply needs some TLC. I have had cars that burn considerable oil at far less mileage. and I think a quart of oil now and then is acceptable. I've also had to replace throwout bearings and did it myself(with help), but it was the ticket to getting the car on the road again and smoother shifting.
BTW, for clarification, a bad throwout bearing has NOTHING to do with the condition of the transmission!!! A failed clutch throwout bearing is an entirely separate part than the transmission, so don't make the mistake thinking your tranny is bad just because the bearing that allows you to engage/disengage the clutch is bad. Even if you're not mechanically inclined, think about getting a Z repair manual, tearing into it and see how far you can get before you have to call for help or sell it as scrap. You will need to remove the transmission to remove the throwout, but with patience, caution, following th manual, and a little help from your friends, its doable. Don't scrap that Z- fix it!

qbrozen

Whoever decided to replace the original clutch at 160k and not replace the throwout bearing made a big mistake. It is a part that wears out. The rear main seal should have been done at that time, too. If it wasn't, I advise doing that along with the throwout bearing this time around.

burdawg

From your description it sounds like the front bearing on the transmission input shaft to me, not the throwout bearing.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd agree with burdawg on this one---based on your description, you have a bad front bearing in the transmission. You might be able to verify this by draining the transmission oil into a cone filter and spotting metallic debris.

With the clutch pedal released, the throw out bearing isn't even moving.

198K is very respectable mileage for a manual transmission, and I'm sure many failures occur even before that mileage. The transmission owes you nothing.

You may only need a "small parts rebuild" in the transmission, not a total one.

hpmctorque

Thanks maxebilly, gbrozen, burdawg and shifty. I value your comments and suggestions.

Among the reasons I'm most likely going to dispose of this car is that, in addition to the transmission related problem, the steering rack leaks (its the original), the windshield has a crack, and it needs a complete brake job. I'd prefer to sell it as a project car, since the engine is sound, the body is straight and has no visible rust, the leather interior is basically good and clean (though, naturally, somewhat worn), the A/C blows cold, and it has new tires. However, if no one expresses interest for a modest price I'll donate it a take a tax deduction.

hpmctorque

Suppose it were a bad front bearing in the transmission. What would be involved to repair it, and roughly (ball park) how much would it cost for parts and labor time?

Mr_Shiftright

I'd figure 10 hours labor plus a small parts kit (bearings, synchros, seals, gaskets, oil, etc). So, depending on where you live...what?....maybe $1500 ballpark on the outside, $1000 on the inside?

OF COURSE... :sick: ...there's the "while we're in there" factor, meaning clutch and pressure plate, blah blah.

Given his description, and the value of the car, the decision to repair or sell is...marginal....

If you repaired the trans, put in a clutch, fixed the windshield, you'd be into it well over $2000, closer to $2500, and you can buy these babies clean and running for not a whole lot more than that.

on the other hand (hence the marginality) the car you have is a known entity, whilst the used one you buy is not.

Were it a turbo car, the decision might be easier.

As a project car, you'd be lucky to get $1250.

qbrozen

Don't forget the steering rack.

With all the problems, near 200k miles, and the least desirable model (2+2), I'd say more like a $500 parts car.

Mr_Shiftright

Oh yeah, steering racks are PRICEY....I did forget that :sick:

Okay add $900 + another 3 hours labor.

Of course, he doesn't need to restore the car, just get it operating satisfactorily. He can add p/s fluid now and then.

Figure it this way--to find any kind of decent used car these days that doesn't need a boatload or work or doesn't have annoying deficiences that you have to live with, you need to spend at the very least $5K-$6K

hpmctorque

Thanks again GB and Shifty. Given the expense of the repairs (I love cars, know a lot of trivia, as you may have observed, but I'm next to the worst mechanic on the planet) I was planning to ask $495.

The steering rack leak isn't too bad yet. I've been using Lucas PS fluid to reduce the frequency for adding fluid, but it's only a matter of time before it'll need a new rack.

I was hoping to nurse this puppy to 200,000, just because it's a nice round number, and because I've never gotten a car past 188,000. I've given up on that idea, though. And to think that, not too long ago, I thought this car was good for 300,000 miles. I think the engine could make it, but not the rest of the car.

Mr_Shiftright

That is often the case. People aspire to very high mileages, because "these babies are known to go 500K!" but they forget that this vaunted engine is attached to the rest of the car, and lots of sheet metal, suspension parts and vinyl don't like to live that long.

Driving a car beyond its 'statistical life" (which on modern cars, is about 175K to 225K) seems pointless unless you just stop at that point and start a full restoration.

After 225K, cars can become downright dangerous---engineers don't plan for bizarre "ultra-mileage mishaps" like metal fatigue.

hpmctorque

You're right, but some of us stubbornly think we can beat the system. When it comes to old cars, it's not what is okay and doesn't need fixing, but, rather, what does need fixing.

In addition to mileage, age takes its toll on some parts and components, and my 300 ZX is 25 years old. I think age doesn't affect mechanical parts much, if at all, though, or am I wrong on this? Does age per se take a toll on engines, transmissions, and steering components if fluids are changed at proper intervals? Body parts, paint, and rubber and plastic parts degrade with age, or course. This occurs at a significantly reduced rate if the car is garaged, washed and waxed regularly, etc., but some age-related deterioration still occurs.

Mr_Shiftright

I think age is much more of a factor on body, paint, upholstery and certainly suspension bushings.

But seals in engines and transmissions deteriorate from age.

And metal can just fatigue---control arms can crack, etc.

johnydeep196

I purchased Honda accord on 31st.tell me latest music system configuration with UBL and JBL

bigislanerik

Here is my situation, I didn't want to pay $3300 PLUS for a transmission rebuild on my bad transmission (very few options on the big island to fix this), 1992 Trooper S 3.2L DOHC. So I bought a parts car from Hilo for $500, drove it to Kona, car drove great, registration is out 9 years, car had dents all over! I raided it for all kinds of parts, I'm stoked! I have the transmission in, no problems, except I have 3 sets of wires coming off the harness that I need to plug into the tranny, I'm an idiot and an amateur, this is my first and last transmission swap/rebuild, I didn't mark them! Most of the plugs are unique and I had no problem connecting. I have 3 sets of plugs, very small ones, the all are the same size. I am color blind and need to get some help with the colors. I can't find a wiring diagram for this situation. Can anyone give me advice?
1992 trooper transmission wiring/harness diagram

Mr_Shiftright

I checked this website and they do seem to have a particular wiring diagram that might help you with your '92 Trooper transmission wiring. You'll have to register first but that's easy. Good luck!

hpmctorque

maxebilly, gbrozen, burdawg and shifty:

On the off chance that any of you were wondering (or losing sleep) about the outcome of my 300ZX, I sold it for $495 from Craigslist. Someone who has a '87 2+2 will use the parts from that car to replace the parts on my '88 that wouldn't pass inspection. The good things on my car were the engine, straight body without rust, clean and well kept leather interior, four new tires (two had not yet been mounted), cold A/C and T-top that doesn't leak.

I was glad to sell it to someone who will drive it.

Thanks again for your valuable input.

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like a good decision to me, all things considered.

hpmctorque

I have no morning after regrets, and the buyer was happy, since he already owned a donor car. Two needy cars will make one daily driver, with the one I owned being the survivor.

qbrozen

good to know.

mmaxson

I have aChevy Impala 3.5 LS with just under 90k miles and am being told by a repair show that I need a lower intake manifold issue with leaking coolant. apparently this is common in this size engine. does that sound reasonable? How about a $1700 cost to repair?

Mr_Shiftright

Depends on where you live and what all they replace, but offhand the quote sounds pricey to me. I'd get a second quote at least, maybe 3. You might even inquire what the dealer charges--if THEY are lower, then you know you're being jacked.

roltyd22

Can someone tell me what Pin "A" wire is for on my headlight switch on 94 Grand marquis?..it's a 7 prong switch with 3 male prong's...the pin A has burnt twice.

Mr_Shiftright

tan and white, and it's a B+ (battery positive) to the main light switch.

roltyd22

Thank's,,Any idea why that one wire would be burnt 2 times?..it melted harness for that wire twice.

Mr_Shiftright

It sounds like some wire in the harness is touching ground. The problem with this type of thing is.....where? Perhaps the switch itself? Has that been replaced?

roltyd22

No it hasnt been,i'm gona change it today i know that small plug with wires attached coming off the switch is gona be tough to get to but i got to get it done.I'm just wondering if the size battery has anything to do with it burning,I got another battery and done ok for about 3 weeks,then started again.The one i got is one of 3 it called for,but it's not a long battery,the one in it wasnt.

roltyd22

The "A" prong in the switch is somewhat discolored,but not bad..i'll change it and see what happens as i'm about out of options besides replacing some wires.I thought about a bigger guage wire for Pin "A"..but then i don't want a drive a fireball waiting to ignite..lol

Mr_Shiftright

No I don't think battery size has anything to do with it...burning means overheating, so something is grounding without being in a fused circuit or perhaps arcing due to looseness or corrosion in a connection.

roltyd22

....Do you guy's think the headlight upgrade kit's like one from Suvlights.com would cure my light problem's?..they are plug and go kit's with relay's and connector's....also at streetbeatbeat customs.com

heritageadam

I'm having trouble figuring out why the trunk light in my 1979 Olds Regency 98 is not working. My voltage tester lights up when I touch it to inside where the light bulb sticks in, but not on the part in the middle which looks like where it actually touches the bottom of the bulb. When I put the bulb in it does not light up.

Thinking it was a problem with the fixture, I pulled the part out of my identical parts car (fixture and about 6 feet of cord which then plugs in). Same thing with that wire/fixture combo. Tried 3 different bulbs in both fixtures.

I've got + voltage where the wire plugs in to the left rear part of the trunk, as well as + voltage inside the where you stick the bulb in as listed above.

What am I missing here? What makes the light turn on when trunk open/off when its shut?

Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

Not familiar with that particular car but most trunk lights work either with a little push button or a mercury switch in the lid.

srs_49

What am I missing here? What makes the light turn on when trunk open/off when its shut?

Do you have a good return (ground) connection on the shell of of socket where the bulb plugs in to?

heritageadam

This is probably an incredibly stupid question but how do I figure that out? (ground) There is only one wire with the power going to the fixture. The outside of the fixture is metal & screws into the trunk. My parts car (same make/model/year) had the same thing - 1 wire going to it. The light under the hood looks the same but works (parking lights have to be on for the hood light to work). Can't get trunk light to work with or without parking light on.

Is there a mercury switch in the fixture?

burdawg

" The outside of the fixture is metal & screws into the trunk". That is the ground. Make sure it's clean and tight.

crkyolfrt

Been reading your posts..and there is definitely a bit of confusion as to how you have troubleshooted so far. First, not sure what type of voltage tester you are using. Is it a digital multimeter? Or is it a light that lights up when it gets voltage? Either way, the centre pin in the light socket should be the one that has 12 volts, if you touch the red lead of meter to it, and the black lead to a known ground. Try also the body of the bulb socket for grd. From what I have read so far, it sounds like you are getting power only from the outside of the bulb socket.

If you have a helper, try to keep leads in place and move trunk lid and/or wiggle the bulb socket holder to see if there is any bad connection or break in a wire causing it to maybe work intermittently in a different position.

I had one of these cars years ago, but don't recall the type of switch used. If the switch/bulb holder you mentioned has a spring loaded button somewhere, then that is your switch and there won't be an extra mercury switch anywhere. Does it look like it is undamaged and in an OEM position? Was car ever in a fender bender? Very hard to help trouble shoot over the internet without not knowing what processes you are doing and which leads are going where. The more specific you can be the better. It seems you have power there, but in the wrong place, (nonetheless the bulb itself should work with polarities reversed) It doesn't make sense if you have tried a new, different, or known working bulb.

edit - also, if you have power, then lower the trunk until you have NO power. If the power goes off before you have actually closed the trunk, BUT, also before any part of the trunk lip is touching anywhere where there could be a button switch, then it DOES use a mercury switch somewhere...probably mounted to the side of one of the swing hinges, but not necessarily. It WILL be mounted to the trunk lid somewhere accessible..if not on a hinge, then probably inside the double wall near the rear latch assembly.

srs_49

you need to ohm out (measure the resistance of) between the outside shell of the bulb socket and chassis (which is the return back to the battery).

heritageadam

Thanks for the input, I went to go take a video of what I was doing but I was able to solve the problem in the process. The original fixture in my car wasn't working, as well as a poor ground with the way it connected to the trunk lid. I replaced it with the one from my parts car & improved the way it is grounded (better contact with the trunk lid). Works great & shuts off as the trunk is half closed, like it should. Thanks again for the help. The comments definitely helped me break it down to the basics.

euphonium

Don't park for a long time facing down a steep hill as in Seattle because with the switch you have installed, the trunk will be elevated and the light will go "on" running down your battery.

rbillieuxsr

Fob locks and unlocks doors but horn or siren does not work top button on fob works but bottom does not--set valet button? battery was disconnected recently

cryoul

I have a 2007 Toyota Solara 4-C SE 2-door Coupe which for over the past year has been burning tons of oil quickly I get an oil change and in less than 2K miles it's burned 3-4 quarts already. no dripping in driveway, no smoking or smell of oil burning, it just disappears and every 2K miles about I need to add 3-4 quarts. I took to Toyota Dealership for Diagnostic Eval. they kept over night, came back the next day they told me the entire Engine needed rebuilding and it would cost me $3-$4K dollars for a 2 week job. I said forget it and left. That sounds like BS to me, anyone have any idea where this oil is going and why? ALSO how do I fix it, without having to add 3-4 quarts more oil about every 2K miles??? I also lost about on average 10 MPG in gas MPG since this problem started. I get only about 20 MPG when I was getting 30+ over a year ago for same MPG but oil was not burning up like it is now. Any ideas, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hit 100K miles in 2K more miles on this 2007 Toy-Solara SE 4-C 2-door Coupe and no way am I investing anything even close to $3-$4K into a rebuilt engine , that is nuts. Please reply here-

BTW I get my Oil Sig. Oil Change done every 3 K-4-K miles now at Jiffy Lube since as long as you go in prior to sticker mileage for next oil change they have to give you a free 'Top-Off' Service so after every 1.5K.5K - 2.5K Miles I go in and they add 3-4 quarts of oil to an almost bone dry engine , all the oil has burned off by than or disappeared??

srs_49

Not sure what the root cause of your problem is, but you're asking for more trouble if you continue to let the engine get 3-4 qts low before adding oil.

Mr_Shiftright

A cylinder leakdown test should answer the question once and for all.

euphonium

I took to Toyota Dealership for Diagnostic Eval. they told me the entire Engine needed rebuilding and it would cost me $3-$4K dollars for a 2 week job. I said forget it and left. That sounds like BS to me.

Believe the Toyota diagnostic & pay the piper. There isn't anything in a bottle on the shelf you can pour into the engine to heal it. It needs what it needs.