Got a Quick, Technical Question?

deekarmy

Hello Everyone,
I own a 1998 Saturn SL2 and I was working on the car and found something odd vibrating. I'm not a car guy so I don't know the technical term, but I just know it doesn't look right. I took a video of my situation.

link title It isn't obvious in the video, but the second from the left is vibrating while the others are keeping still.

Also this is the second time in between oil changes that I had to top the oil off. And my milage has been much lower than I am used to (21-23 combined mpg, maybe 25 if 175mi of 200 are hiway)

So is this bad that my car is on its last legs or am I expecting a large repair cost?

Specs:
Year/Make/Model: 1998 Saturn SL2
Type & Size of Engine: 1.9L 124 hp I4
Transmission Type: (Auto)
Mileage: 80k

Thanks.

stickguy

I couldnt see anything vibrating (though I am using a laptop with a broken screen, looks like an ink blot test). But are you talking about the 4 rubber boots/wires in the center? that would be the spark plugs. And I assume on a '98 Saturn, it is just plain old spark plugs and wires, and not coil packs.

So I would pull the boot off and check that the plug is not loose, and that the boot is on tight.

deekarmy

Thanks stickguy,

You have it right that I'm talking about the four rubber boots/wires as you have worded it (I'm more of a computer guy than car guy) The second from the left vibrates like crazy. I'll go ahead and check it out.

bolivar

I couldn't tell anything from the video either. Actually sounded pretty good.

If only one is moving, then yes, as stickguy said, check that the plug wire is firmly on the plug. The plug might even loose.

At this milage, and especially at this age, 14 years, all you need might be a set of new plugs and new wires. Especially new wires. 4 plugs at what, $5 each, and a set of wires for $30 (?) for a total of $50 would not be throwing a lot of parts at an unknown problem. And if the motor has never had the plugs and wires changed, it surely could not hurt.

A spark plug socket and a cheap 3/8 inch rachet set should enable you to change these plugs. They look very easy, sitting on top of the motor, very accessible. For $75 or so you can get what a shop will call a 'tune-up' (plugs and wires) and would probably charge $225....

kokopuff

I have replaced battery and it starts sporatic somtimes nothing unless I turn and wiggle the steering wheel. Any thoughts on what the problem is or my next step, worried my wife is going to get stranded.

qbrozen

if wiggling the steering wheel is the cure, it sounds like the ignition switch is going.

euphonium

Well, Valentines Day IS coming up.

burdawg

Or possibly the neutral safety switch or harness connector inside the column.

lordy1

I have a 1994 GS300 that consistently displays a 41 & 71 fault codes along with “check engine” & “TRAC OFF” and the “TRAC” light comes on intermittently, I haven’t been able to interrogate the codes when the “TRAC” light is on.

For code 41 I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, for code 71 the EGR valve has been cleaned and the EGR gas temp. Sensor replaced. After replacing these parts and clearing the codes they come back within 20 miles of driving.

I’m unconfused and out of ideas. Please help.

bieks

hi, i have a 99 chevy tahoe. i'm looking for help finding the vacuum diagram for this vehicle.
any help would be great.
thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Ah you may have been fooled here. The book says:

"
Signals from the Throttle Position Sensor(s) are also input to the TRAC Electronic Control Unit, So when a malfunction occurs on the TRAC side, code 41 or 47 may be displayed."

As for the EGR code, it could be more than just the EGR being clogged up:

"TROUBLE AREA for code 71
Open in Exhaust Gas Recirculation Gas Temperature Sensor circuit.
Short in Vacuum Switching Valve circuit for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation hose disconnected, valve stuck.
Clogged Exhaust Gas Recirculation gas passage.

choochooman

2004 toyota highlander front wheel dr, 3.3 v6 auto, 54,600 toyota dealer said i have a leaking ball joint on drs side, not bad enough to fail a va state inspection. 239.00 plus 79.95 for frt end alignment is this a good price? they sugested i keep an eye on it to see if it gets worst, how long should i go before replacing it? also should i do the passenger side at same time to avoid paying for a second alignment?

Mr_Shiftright

There's a measurement for wear on a ball joint--you unload the A-arm by jacking elsewhere, then lever the lower A arm and see how much the balljoint moves. As I recall, for most cars 1/8th inch play up and down is maximum permissable. It's not something you want to mess around with, because if a ball joint breaks, your truck's front end with collapse on the wheel and create serious control problems.

choochooman

thankyou for responding so quick, they didn't say anything about movement just that the balljoint was leaking and not leaking enough that it needs replacing right away, but u are right something to take seriously so i'll get it done, does 239.00 sound to high i think i will compare the price with firestone

Mr_Shiftright

The "book" says $57 for the part + 2.3 hours labor, so that seems a reasonable price.

If you are considering an alignment, you should be sure that your tires aren't ready for replacement---if you have very worn tires the truck will be difficult to align properly. I'd say if you need front tires, you should do that, too.

As for the ball joint on the other side, that can be tested for movement.

rat_bastardson

My 92 Deville has developed a starting problem. When the key is turned, the battery will try and try to start. After about 30 seconds there is a sound indicating it is trying to grab and eventually it does. It spits and coughs a little and then it fires right up. After that, there is no indication whatsoever that there is any kind of a fuel problem. It runs great at all speeds. It does not stall at red lights. It picks right up on a green or when floored. Only when starting does it give me a problem. The thing is, I ran it nearly out of gas 3 days ago. The dash lights are out so it sometimes happens. It took 15 gallons. I think it was out or near out when it coasted into the station. I had a new fuel pump put in December and have not run out until this time. Today I put a new filter on as well as getting a fuel line blasting job done at a local oil change place, but still it won’t start easily like it used to. What could this be?

Mr_Shiftright

What about 1/2 hour later? Will it start easily then, or is this only a long period/overnight type occurrence.

heavychevy2000

95 s10 2.2l 5spd 250k miles idles fine but wont take fuel with pedal all the way on floor revs 3000 and bounces new fuel pump filter tps map sensor plugs + wires egr valve compression is good and fuel injectors ohmed good scan tool says pulse width is low im stumped plz help

rat_bastardson

Hello.. yes, it was re-starting fine after a short wait, but then it finally got to the point where it wouldn't even start cold. I had the fuel filter replaced like I said and the lines cleaned out (they did it with some kind of solution in a long clear plastic tube attached to the testing port on the fuel line). At the point of my previous writing, it seemed to have made no difference. But the next day it started right up. No matter if it was hot or cold. It's been starting strong ever since. I guess I dodged a bullet for sure. thanks for the response and the interest.

choochooman

i took the car back to same toyota dealership for the ball joint replacement i thank they felt sorry for me as they charged me more than $50.00 less than originally qouted $150.47 labor and $46.70 for the ball joint and $79.95 to do 4 wheel alignment this was the first repair done on the car which i've had for 8 yrs so i guess i can't complain to much

aspengirl

2007 Chrysler Aspen Limited, Auto, 65K miles. I purchased my vehicle in Ohio, drove to Kentucky and as I was climbing through the mountains....my truck struggled to make it up the hills. I had to accelerate almost to the floor. Eventually I had to move to the trucker lane. As long as I am on level ground, I'm fine. Although I do notice that it seems to shift gears going up the slightess incline. I drove all the way back to Ohio to have them service it. I explained in detail my problem. They said the computer said it was clogged filters (charged me $209.00, said it wasn't under warranty). As I drove home, I drove in tears feeling like I had been had. Still, my truck struggled to climb hills. Please help. I did buy an extended warranty....maybe that was the best thing I purchased from that dealer!

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah, their diagnosis, if you heard it right,, sounds very lame. A computer can't diagnose a clogged filter at least not one I ever heard of. I suppose a diagnostic tool might be able to read fuel pressure.

Generally though, their thinking wasn't bad---when a car struggles uphill, it often does relate to clogged filters, weak fuel pump or a bad catalytic converter, so they were in the right general area. My guess is that they took a good guess--with your checkbook.

Conditions like this can be hard to diagnose because it's not easy to simulate them in the shop.

I'd certainly suggest a fuel pressure test and a test of the catalytic converter.

aspengirl

Mr. Shiftright,

Thank you! I will have those items you mentioned checked. I will also update you to let you know the outcome.

Have a great day!

heritageadam

Good morning

I have a 79 olds regency 98. The switch for the fan on the dash works on all the lower settings but does nothing on the high setting. How do I figure out where the problem is/fix it? Thanks.

imidazol97

I know how the blower systems are wired on my 93/98/03 leSabres. Yours may be similar of may not be.

The lower speeds run through one circuit and switch between the varied resistor groupings in the resistor pack that is sitting in the air stream of the blower fan inside the heater housing.

There is a relay that switches from one pole to another when you switch to HIGH speed. The circuit bypasses the resistor unit. The new circuit has a large fuse, in a relay center on mine, that is 30 amp. This allows a higher speed and current draw for the blower motor.

So you have two things to check. The first would be the larger fuse, probably a 30 amp. It may have blown from age OR from a blower motor that is deteriorating and drawing more amperage and the fan teased the fuse to its deather. The second is the relay that switches from one contact to another. On my 93, one of those relays similar burned the contacts and didn't work any longer. If you can figure out the wiring you might be able to pull that relay and check to see if it can be trigger to switch contacts with the low power solenoid terminals and then does it give a continous circuit through the other two contacts. I removed the cover from my relay to visually check it. That might be possible if you are able to do that. Otherwise, you might use a fused jumper to see if directly connecting the power lead for the high speed blower circuit bypassing the relay itself allows the motor to work at full speed.

For many of the relays in my vehicle, there are several similar numbered relays for the one pole relays, and another relay, such as horn, could be substituted to verify one was bad. But there are no duplicates for the switching relay that uses one circuit and then switches to another circuit.

stickguy

after reading this, I am pretty sure that I would just learn to live without the High setting. I hate to have a lot of air blowing on me anyway, so probably would never even know!

heritageadam

I have a 1979 oldsmobile regency 98. 350. When I start it when it has been sitting overnight, I push the gas pedal and the choke closes appropriately. Then I turn the key and with either holding the pedal to the floor or pumping the pedal (doesn't matter) the starter turns and turns for 5-10 seconds, then all of a sudden it fires up. Once it goes it runs fine. This only happens when it is cold. When its warm it fires up right away. I've owned this car for a year and it seems that the time it takes to start has slightly increased. What do you think the cause of this is? One person mentioned that the gas is different now vs 1979 and being slow to start is expected. Does that make sense? Should I replace/rebuild the carburetor? Fuel filter? Or just keep driving it like this (it still always starts). Thanks in advance. Any thoughts appreciated.

bolivar

Two wild guesses:
-Weak fuel pump. It has to 'prime' up everything for the first start, and this might take more time.
-Bad 'power valve' in the carb. This is a little diaphram pump valve that gives the carb a 'shot' of gas directly into the carb throat when you depress the footfeed. When the car is running at speed, if it will not accelerate quickly when you push on the footfeed, this most probably is the problem. A carb overhaul kit always comes wiht a new 'power valve'.

imidazol97

>the choke closes appropriately. Then I turn the key and with either holding the pedal to the floor or pumping the pedal (doesn't matter) the starter turns and turns for 5-10 seconds, then all of a sudden it fires up.

Are you sure the choke is closing completely to block off most air flow? I suspect that it is, but you might take the air cleaner off and observe the choke when it's cold while someone else cranks the engine to be sure the spring closing the choke isn't weakened and the air flow at crank speed is pulling it open slight??? I may be overthinking the history of these, but age on the choke springs in a few cars mandated replacing the choke.

You don't say where you are so I don't know if "cold" is 30 deg or 55 degrees. BUT my #1 guess on this is leaking of gasoline through the plugs in the bottom of the carburetor. If I recall correctly, the plugs are put in to seal passages that had to be drilled inside the carb but went through the outside. These seep slightly as the carb cools and the gas level in the bowl leaks. I don't recall if it leaks onto the manifold or internally inside the manifold. So it takes little time for the fuel pump to refill the carb float chamber to a level where the jets and suck fuel instead of just air.

You might do some internet searching for this--QuadraJet is the carburetor. The 4-barrel version had this. I don't know if the two-barrel version had it as well. I seem to recall talk of epoxy to try to seal the plugs better from the outside?

A test to do, would be to take off the cover on the carb (only if you have done before and can do it right and check the level of fuel after engine has sat. There is a depth dimension from the top of the edge of the float chamber in books.

OR you can see if you can have air cleaner off, open the choke butterfly, and pump the accelerator rod and get gasoline through the accelerator pump. And see how many pumps of gas it gives. Then compare with what the quantity of gas is after car has sat just for a couple hours and cooled down during daytime driving.

>either holding the pedal to the floor or pumping the pedal

I believe the correct starting procedure is to just push down on pedal one time before cranking to allow the choke butterfly to close with its spring pressure. Then keep your foot off the accelerator pedal while cranking.

Holding the pedal to the floor actually moves a cam that opens the butterfly choke valve, eliminating choking for when the engine has been flooded. So don't hold the pedal to the floor during normal cranking.

I had a Quadrajet Olds 350 in 1977 but traded it for a 1980 with the two hole version for better fuel mileage. I didn't have trouble with mine, but it may now have aged enough to start seeping where it lengthened crank time.

Mr_Shiftright

Well in theory, holding your foot to the floor defeats the choke. If the car were ship-shape, all you should have to do is pump the gas once, then don't hit the gas pedal again, and just crank it (well, maybe tickle the gas pedal just a tiny bit).

However, if say your float is defective, you might be dribbling gas into the engine overnight, thereby creating a flooding condition even before you start the car--and this you are "curing" by flooring the gas pedal.

So if I were you, I'd try two experiments and then report back:

Day One -- get in, pump the gas once, crank it without doing much of anything to the gas---what happens?

Day Two -- get in, floor the gas pedal and keep it there, crank it---what happens? Better or worse than Day One?

Day Three -- get in, don't do anything, just crank it---what happens?

msrose59

We have had a problem with the left rear brake light only working intermittently. One day it will work--next nothing. All other lights on that side and the entire truck are good. Bulbs have been replaced, new housing unit and new wiring harness. The fuses are good. Now it won't work at all! Any suggestions?

crkyolfrt

You mention a new wiring harness and bezel bulb holding unit. While I am not familiar with the set-up on your exact vehicle, the fact that you had an intermittent issue before and now have a fullt-ime failure, suggests that there is a bad slip-on connector involved be it a crimp type or otherwise. I have seen connectors look perfectly new-like, yet by bypassing a jumper to correct terminal at bulb to upstream of the supply wire (puncture with a needle, then silicone the point of entry after) it often reveals a bad connector. I have taken a said connector apart after replacing it and was shocked to see inside a green electrolysis corrosion that actually was the culprit, and odd as it seems, there were no external visual clues of that corrosion. Fortunately it is rare, but happens and I learned the hard way this scenario spending not just hours, but even over a day troubleshooting, and each time always looking at the connectors and saying to myself that they all look like new (on the outside). When trying to rule out a bad connector, remember to include the ground if a separate ground is used on each filament. i.e. The tail light and backup lights in same bezel work fine but do not assume they all use the same ground. Without access to the vehicle in person, that's the best I can suggest online.

Also, I doubt the brake light switch (down at the pedal) has separate dual terminals for left and right, but if it has more than 2 wires coming off it, then ensure it is not the culprit. Wiggling while someone watches would help rule it out, but if salt off your feet in that type of climate, and position of switch allows that corrosion, then it could get into switch and wiggling will not work. Again though, I doubt it has a dual circuit to the rear. Also rule out a potential trailer towing controller, or wire harness if that exists on your vehicle.

If vehicle has been in accident of a nature that would involve wire harness repair or replacement, then that too could be suspect. I assume you did not replace the entire harness from front to back.

Replacing any harness or part that ends up with a full-time failure vs intermittent before, is your best clue as to where to look.

msrose59

TY! Will check all of this out. The truck does have a dent at the back area that suggests this entire lens may have had damage and been replaced so that may be a factor.

bolivar

If there is an added trailer wiring harness, this could be what has messed things up. If there is one, and you will not pull a trailer. take it off. I've seen several where they cut into the wires and generally messed things up.

bolivar

I totally agree. Couldn't have said it better!

byrn

Hello. A question for the experts. Sorry for the length but I think I ned to fill in all the details.

I have a 1986 Mazda B2000 pickup. It's been very hardworking for many years, with a few issues along the way. It used to get hot in the summer so one year I took out the thermostat. Never got hot after that. I drove it that way fine for about five or six years.

I took the truck in for smog the other day and they put a thermostat back in to get it to temp. It has passed smog twice before with no thermostat with other smog people but these people said they couldn't do it without a thermostat.

After fiddling with the truck for hours and $228 dollars later they finally got it to compliance. The next day or maybe the day after that it was hot weather out. As I was driving up a long grade here I started to smell burning oil. At first I thought it was someone else. When I got to a place in town and stopped I now noticed that smoke was billowing out from under the hood.

After letting it cool I took off the radiator cap and saw that there was no water. When I filled it I noticed that it was now dripping rapidly out from a hose underneath the carburetor (in a very inconvenient location I might add). I had to pick up my daughter from school so I filled it back up (I also took a five gallon bucket of water) and with a little difficulty got it started and went and got her. It is another 17 miles from there to home. My plan was to watch the gauge and when it started getting too hot to turn it off and let it cool down. I just wanted to get us home.

About halfway home when the temps began to rise abnormally I turned it off. Problem was that when it cooled down it wouldn't start up this time. Still won't. It cranks, the timing belt is good, there is a spark to all the plugs, the tank is full of gas but there is no turnover. I tried putting a little gas in the carburetor but still no ignition.

I'm wondering if it might be a clogged fuel filter or maybe the pump went bad from the heat. I asked someone else who told me that I might have blown the rings and lost compression.

I had to get another vehicle but I want to see if I can get the truck going again. Why? I live in California where you can collect some money to retire old vehicles. The catch is that you have to be able to drive the car to the dismantler. It's frustrating knowing that if I had not gone to these smog people I could have recycled this truck without a problem.

Anyway, I am wondering if anyone has any other ideas as to what may be causing the truck not to start? It cranks, and almost seems like it wants to start but doesn't.

Thank you.

qbrozen

well, it may be true it is damaged beyond reasonable repair. I would start with a compression test.

byrn

Understand. Problem is we live about 17 miles from the nearest gas station. It would cost another $100+ to tow it just for that. Is there a way I can test it myself from home?

byrn

Hmm, I don't see my original message or the reply. Where did they go?

srs_49

Well, you would need a compression gauge and a spark plug removal tool to do the compression test gbrozen suggested.

Your earlier posts are just on the preceding page of this thread.

boehn

I have a 97 Suburban with a 4L80E transmission that went out. I have found several used 4L60E transmissions. They look the same on the outside. What is the difference between these two transmissions???

qbrozen

found this for you, which may be helpful:
fourwheeler.com article

byrn

Thanks. I will try to see if I can get one from the auto parts store. Do you have any idea how much pressure each cylinder should normally read?

Mr_Shiftright

They are switchable but not without a conversion of various parts. The 80 is heavier duty and a better transmission all around.

jipster

Battery only 3 months old. I''ll turn key to start car, turns like it is gonna start, when I release the key it dies. If I turn key with my foot depressed on the gas pedal it will start and run, but when I take my foot off gas pedal, the car dies. I can hear what I believe to be the fuel pump turning on at the initial beginning of key turn, and after car dies. Any ideas?

colin_l

check or replace the following in roughly this order:
- air leak between air flow sensor and throttle body (I do not know if your Regal is MAF, speed density, or MAP)
- vacuum leak
- fuel filter
- idle air control solenoid
- fuel pump
- air flow sensor

if that's too much for you to mess with, take it to a trusted mechanic.

jipster

Thanks. Had it towed to dealer. Sounded like a fuel pump with low pressure to me. Mechanic at shop said he didnt think so. Waiting to hear something.

colin_l

not likely, and that's why it was low in my priority list. a fuel pump that can't deliver enough fuel to idle properly surely can't deliver enough fuel to run if you give it some throttle...

jipster

Well, the car has been repaired. Mechanic said the "Idle Air Motor", throttle body plates and mass airflow sensor were all gummed up. Said he used 2 cans of cleaner cleaning it up.

The mass airflow sensor was replaced about 5 years ago by dealership... they could have cleaned it, but charged me something around $400 for a new(remanufactured) one. Small garage shop owner charged me $75 to fix that and turn signal. Car runs great.

Dealership by the way wanted $85 to put in a new socket for that turn signal, it was slightly melted. The local shop owner pulled out the prongs, to make contact with bulb, that fixed the problem. Wonder why the dealership didnt think of that? $

bmw__m5

I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey. Last summer I got new brake pads because the previous ones where grinding. About 2,000mi. after the brake job, I took a trip up to White Mountains. While I was driving I barely touched the brake pedal and just used engine braking to hold my speed. But I lent the car to a friend, whom I doubt practiced the same driving technique, and after it was returned it was immediately apparent that there was an issue. The brakes grind quite a bit especially when cold. From my research I concluded that they where glazed and that with time, the glazed portion should wear off. A year and 25,000mi. later they still grinding. I had them inspected at the place I purchased them and they said that there was dirt on them that hey cleaned off, but otherwise they where fine. Is there anything I can do to fix it short of replacing the pads? Will (or has it) damaged the rotor? The Odyssey (and most other Honda Products) are famous for there inadequate brakes, 11.7in front discs on a car that weighs 4,600lbs. unloaded. Are there any brake pads that can help prevent glazing that fit this car? I have had the same issue plus rotor warping on all other Honda products I've owned (2001 Aucra MDX, 2003 MDX, 2007 Odyssey) and I do not consider myself a brake rider. Luckily, this one hasn't warped, I believe the dealer over tightened the lug nuts on my previous cars by 60-70 lbs-ft, a torque wrench prevented warping on this Odyssey.