Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

andres3

qbrozen said:

stickguy said:

Miles a little high, but these are fun to drive. Not a bad price. Same color as the one I had. Just not a putt putt mobile.

http://www.royaleasing.com/detail-2009-volvo-s40-4dr_sedan_2_5t_r~design_awd-used-17206162.html

I'd still much rather have that v50 manual that has yet to sell.
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/722301628/overview?aff=share_other


I drove one of those before! Pretty nice wagon, but lots of turbo lag. Of course, I never drove one with a manual transmission, always a slushbox. Do you think that helps take away some of the sling shot effect of the T5 drive train?

Still, at asking $11K they must think the manual is worth half the car! Seems overpriced by 100%.

tjc78

andres3 said:

Must be a bad week for me with tires. The Sandman

I've seen two vehicles recently that had an inadequately tightened wheel come off. Thankfully, both were at low speeds, so not much danger to the occupants, but it really messed up the fender, door (I think), and probably some brake/suspension components. It would be really dangerous if that happened at highway speeds!

So it's probably good when adding 5 MM wheel spacers that your shop/mechanic lets you know you really should get some longer wheel bolts! Messing around with your safety is probably a bad idea.

I know it’s acceptable, but I’d be a little worried tracking a car with wheel spacers.  

stickguy

here is another similar TLX, but not black interior. a little more expensive, but CPO.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/718448651/overview/

same price. Not CPO, but tech package.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/718886721/overview/

Of course, those are just asking prices.

qbrozen

rny421 said:

Personally, I wouldn’t hesitate on either of those cars. It’s highly likely you will NEVER have anything go wrong with them if you keep up the routine maintenance. Let us know how it goes.

An update: I called the dealer with the White TLX yesterday to get some more information on the vehicle. Salesguy was helpful, and was going to get the service report to answer some questions I had. But, I told him that I was out of state (6 hours away), and laid out my plan if we made a deal:

• Put $1,000 down on a credit card to hold the car
• Call insurance company to get insurance card
• Drive out to dealer with a rental car and cashier's check for the balance due
• Test drive the car
• If everything checks out, hand over the check, drop off rental car, dealership puts temp tags on it, and I and head home

That is how I did it when I bought my S60. BUT - he said that they can't issue temporary tags in Massachusetts. I figured he didn't know what he was talking about, since that's what I thought all dealerships did. Turns out, it's true. Massachusetts doesn't issue temporary tags. So, I would have to pay for the car before seeing it, wait 5-7 days for them to register it in NY and get the NY plates, then go pick it up. I know it would probably be fine, but it's a lot of faith to put into someone. I'm not sure what I'll do now. Super frustrating that it's not as easy as my last out of state purchase.

Can you buy temo tags in NY and take with you? I believe Nj offers that.

qbrozen

tjc78 said:

andres3 said:

Must be a bad week for me with tires. The Sandman

I've seen two vehicles recently that had an inadequately tightened wheel come off. Thankfully, both were at low speeds, so not much danger to the occupants, but it really messed up the fender, door (I think), and probably some brake/suspension components. It would be really dangerous if that happened at highway speeds!

So it's probably good when adding 5 MM wheel spacers that your shop/mechanic lets you know you really should get some longer wheel bolts! Messing around with your safety is probably a bad idea.

I know it’s acceptable, but I’d be a little worried tracking a car with wheel spacers.  

I have done it. Put spacers, I believe 7.5mm, on my 300z when I was autocrossing it.

stickguy

Here's a decent seeming deal on a loaded up model Sandy mobile. Nice color combo. Low miles.

http://www.turnersvilleautomall.com/detail-2015-volkswagen-golf-tsi_sel_4~door-used-17049423.html

tbirdmarco

 Well I know idea Massachusetts has an issue temporary tags good to know for future reference like others have said above can you get tags from the state of New York temporary ones and bring them with you otherwise I don’t know you have to see what Plan B would be 

corvette

tbirdmarco said:

@corvette so is the SUV sold! lollollol

No interest at the price I gave. Was hoping to get rid of it before it needs an oil change in a few weeks, lol! 

corvette

Ford (not the dealer) sent me a satisfaction survey for my service visit. Didn’t know they would do that on an out of warranty vehicle. Doubt it will do any good, but I told them the truth about how Oxmoor Ford fumbled the ball multiple times. 

imidazol97

I suspect the surveys mean something, even on out-of-warranty work. My Chev dealer always calls me after any service, warranty and non-warranty, to ask if I was satisfied and if there are any problems to call the person back so they can attempt to solve any problem. They mention I may get a survey from GM and to please give them good comments or call him at the dealership to reach a satisfactory level.

corvette

Well, I definitely gave them the opportunity to smooth things over. The dealer sent me a text. I replied explaining the issues I had. Now, maybe they don’t monitor replies to the text messages they send out (the text didn’t say anything to that effect; also, not my problem)... More evidence of their poor communication. 

xwesx

corvette said:

Oh, snap! Didn't plan on this... Someone is interested in buying my Tahoe. I'm gonna price it aggressively high and hope they don't bite.

In the meantime, michaell, which full-size trucks are leasing well right now?

You have to play up the provenance on it.... see if that helps you get more than you should out of it.

Wait a minute.... just read your most recent posts on it, and you're saying now that "you were hoping to get rid of it before next oil change?" Which is it? Hoping to or hoping not to, because "hoping to" means that you can/will, at the right price...!

corvette

xwesx said:

Oh, snap! Didn't plan on this... Someone is interested in buying my Tahoe. I'm gonna price it aggressively high and hope they don't bite. In the meantime, michaell, which full-size trucks are leasing well right now?

You have to play up the provenance on it.... see if that helps you get more than you should out of it. Wait a minute.... just read your most recent posts on it, and you're saying now that "you were hoping to get rid of it before next oil change?" Which is it? Hoping to or hoping not to, because "hoping to" means that you can/will, at the right price...!

I was kidding about trading it before it needs an oil change. 

tbirdmarco

@corvette O lollol

andres3

tjc78 said:

andres3 said:

corvette said:

sandman_6472 said:

Must be a bad week for me with tires.
The Sandman

I've seen two vehicles recently that had an inadequately tightened wheel come off. Thankfully, both were at low speeds, so not much danger to the occupants, but it really messed up the fender, door (I think), and probably some brake/suspension components. It would be really dangerous if that happened at highway speeds!

So it's probably good when adding 5 MM wheel spacers that your shop/mechanic lets you know you really should get some longer wheel bolts!

Messing around with your safety is probably a bad idea.

I know it’s acceptable, but I’d be a little worried tracking a car with wheel spacers.  

Any particular reason you'd be worried? They are essentially just rings of alloy fit to match the wheel hub, with holes for the bolts and hub to go through. Mine are only 5 mm. I suppose 2 or 3 mm spacers would have been sufficient.

I always see people checking the torque of their bolts; I've never had an issue yet.

tjc78

It just adds another failure point.  Like I said I know it’s acceptable, especially with longer bolts ... I think I’d just rather not have them.  

Q mentioned he used them as well with no problems too.  

andres3

tjc78 said:

It just adds another failure point.  Like I said I know it’s acceptable, especially with longer bolts ... I think I’d just rather not have them.  

Q mentioned he used them as well with no problems too.  

Coming from having owned a Neon, I'm not too worried about failure points with other brands, especially if we are talking solid metals. I do like that he chose the best German-made forged bolts for my forged wheels though. No more Chinese sourced bolts for me.

I'm more worried about electrical issues in modern cars, such as failed window regulators, or some sort of thing along those lines.

I actually felt safe driving the Neon as a teenager, I probably wouldn't today knowing how lame the structural integrity of that car was.

Having said all that, I'd rather not have them either (if only to avoid added weight, labor, and parts cost). However, you don't want a caliper 1 mm away from the wheel spoke.

rayainsw

https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2018/01/11/ford-drives-all-new-edge-st-into-showrooms.html

I wonder if this means the Fusion Sport will
have this 8-speed automatic - soon ?
- Ray
Did like a lot about the one I drove...

tbirdmarco

 Yes you had probably the worst car that Chrysler ever built 

tbirdmarco

 That in the combination of being lucky or not lucky pleasing to the effect two 

tbirdmarco

 Looking forward to seeing this new age in show rooms 

tbirdmarco

 Still fan of Chrysler though it’s every brand makes some dogs every now and then but Ford is my ultimate favorite 

graphicguy

stickguy said:

here is another similar TLX, but not black interior. a little more expensive, but CPO.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/718448651/overview/

same price. Not CPO, but tech package.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/718886721/overview/

Of course, those are just asking prices.

Acuras are one of those brands where I’m not sure CPO is actually needed. They’re pretty bulletproof. Neither of those cars have high mileage. Odds of anything untoward (save from any accident damage undisclosed) going wrong with them seem pretty slim.

stickguy

I would agree on Acura. I would save the money. Plus, powertrain warranty, if you are worried about the tranny, is already 6 years.

corvette

Isellhondas used to talk about the CPO process and how they had to swap out perfectly good brake pads, etc., just to meet the standards. I’d rather pay less and have to replace brakes in a couple of years (likely longer than I will keep the car). 

rayainsw

'...a couple of years (likely longer than I will keep the car). '
Words to live by.
- Ray
Here, at least...

tbirdmarco

@corvette I am with you!

corvette

Saw the renderings of the 2019 Honda Insight. That explains why there is no Civic hybrid in this genreration of Civic. Looks nice, though! 

xwesx

Wow, an ST version of the Edge?! Hmm.

I would probably be drooling if they announced an ST of the Flex. Heck, they could probably make the same numbers as they sell now if they ONLY had an ST version of the Flex.

28firefighter

xwesx said:

Wow, an ST version of the Edge?! Hmm.

I would probably be drooling if they announced an ST of the Flex. Heck, they could probably make the same numbers as they sell now if they ONLY had an ST version of the Flex.

The EcoBoost version of the Flex is plenty quick in its own right! My BIL and SIL have a Flex with Sport Appearance and EcoBoost - I took it on a test drive and it was impressively fast.

tbirdmarco

@xwesx would be cool the Flex like that! but the Eco boost sounds good to me to as whell like an rocket ship!

xwesx

Yes, the Ecoboost version left a smile on my face, for sure. But... an ST?! Please.....?! Also, the design of the vehicle is much more suited to a true performance version. The Edge is too tall and sits to high to really do it true justice. Man, ST Flex.... talk about rocket ship....

I have really thought hard about an ST Fiesta, but I am just not feeling all that fond of a tiny car these days. I was so thrilled to drive my Q7 home from Anchorage on Tuesday. Even with the car's shortcomings, it is just so comfortable. It does everything (except hauling cargo) quite well.

qbrozen

Well, my unexpected time off at least let me take a look at the Rover today. Replaced the brake switch but still no lights. After poking at all the fuses and bulbs, I decided to just try to start it again. It went through a system check process with lots of clicks and whirring. After which the brake lights started working. Guess it needed to register the new switch or something. BUT, still no starting. After some internet searching, I found a suggestion that, following a flat battery, the car can go into "crash mode." Hooked up my scanner and found a couple of codes. Cleared those out and the truck started right up.

 So now that it is running, I was able to confirm that the alternator is doing absolutely nothing. An OEM unti is $350-$400, and reports are that paying for the repair will run $800-$1k. Oh, did I mention the intake manifold must be removed to gain access? Anyhoo, another search found me a rebuild kit for $90 and a belt and intake manifold gaskets for another $50. That will be a fun time when it all arrives.

rny421

I've got an update:

The Masachussets TLX for $18.5k was sold Should have scooped it up earlier. Oh well.

It's been an odd experience searching for the right TLX. I don't want to bend on my desired color combination, because I kind of regret settling on the Volvo.

When I call dealers to ask about the car, I already have my list of questions:

• Is it still in stock?
  
• Does it have two keys?
  
• Any scratches, dings, dents that aren't shown in the pictures?
  
• What is the tire tread depth
  
• Is it a former smoker's car?
  
• What is your dealer fee, and what does that fee include?
  

These are good things to ask, because it can help you determine what is a good deal. One dealer keeps talking about the price of the car, and treating their $750 dealership fee as if it is required by law. We're $500 apart, and I'm not budging.

Same thing with a different dealer I reached out to, their dealer fee was $499.

I called another dealership tonight that seems reasonable. Price of the car is the price of the car. All fees after that are the standard NYS tax, title, and DMV fees. No other "documentation fee." We'll see where this one takes me...

tbirdmarco

 Maybe Ford will listen to you and Ricky version of the edge like that we shell see you never know I’m glad that you got your Audi Q7 back though awesome 

tbirdmarco

 Glad you had a chance to look at the rover are getting things sorted out where they make modern cars so tight together doesn’t help anything ha ha 

tbirdmarco

 When it comes to repairing them anyway have to replace the gas tank on my thunder bird the insides all destroyed in the floor mechanism isn’t even there so going to do that for now and the Benchley I guess cage happens to be bad too but those are expensive so try to go after market maybe just replace all the ages with some nice aftermarket ones which is fine we shall see the coming weeks ha ha Ha 

tbirdmarco

 Good luck with that Acura TLX you found in upstate New York hope that one works out for you in the car checks out well and you guys could come twin agreement on a deal hoping maybe my mom wants to do some whore looking on Sunday at a few different sport utility brands but I have in mind for her to look at and see if she likes them at all 

stickguy

one of the rare things that NY seems to be cheap at is dealer doc fees. Lower than Jersey or Connecticut, so I believe a lot of people cross those borders to save on the fees (I know that NYC did a couple of times).

kyfdx

stickguy said:

one of the rare things that NY seems to be cheap at is dealer doc fees. Lower than Jersey or Connecticut, so I believe a lot of people cross those borders to save on the fees (I know that NYC did a couple of times).

NY doc fees restricted by statute to $75

rny421

Ahh, I didn't know NYS doc fees were limited. Any doc fee over $100 is unreasonable to me, especially when the dealership misleads you to believe it's required. You can't tell me that it takes more than an hour to process title paperwork, and we all know the title clerk who processes that paperwork isn't making much money.

Michaell

rny421 said:

Ahh, I didn't know NYS doc fees were limited. Any doc fee over $100 is unreasonable to me, especially when the dealership misleads you to believe it's required. You can't tell me that it takes more than an hour to process title paperwork, and we all know the title clerk who processes that paperwork isn't making much money.

We counsel folks to simply adjust the selling price to offset the doc fee. It's around $500 here in CO and I've had folks report doc (or dealer) fees of up to $899 in FL.

stickguy

when I got my last car, I used Truecar (and AAA buying service) to get some quotes. They (at least truecar) listed the fees too I believe. Giving an actual bottom line number. Really easy to compare that way between different dealers in different states that way.

breld

Perhaps you all have some practical advice on this issue:

My wife was driving home last night in her MINI in the rain, and apparently her wipers/blades were not clearing the windshield well at all, to the point that it was very unsafe.

She had the same problem a few weeks ago, so I replaced her blades with some new ones recommended by a local auto parts store. The ones I replaced were Bosch, which I've always held in high regard, and the ones recommended by the store clerk were much cheaper, but I thought may as well give them a shot. Apparently, the new ones are no better, and perhaps worse.

So...anyone have luck with particular blades? How about that "Rain-x" stuff you wipe onto the windshield?

tjc78

Well it’s obviously time to trade that Mini in..

I would start by cleaning the windshield really well with something that removes grease followed by a good glass cleaner.   Then I would take alcohol wipes or rag with same and wipe down the blades really good. 

Im suspecting the car has been thru an auto wash / wax and there is some build up on the windshield.  

If this doesn’t work there are more intense methods using 0000 Steel wool to remove any contamination from the windshield.   I also suppose the arms to could be too tight / loose pressure to the glass. 

au1994

tjc78 said:

Well it’s obviously time to trade that Mini in..

I would start by cleaning the windshield really well with something that removes grease followed by a good glass cleaner.   Then I would take alcohol wipes or rag with same and wipe down the blades really good. 

Im suspecting the car has been thru an auto wash / wax and there is some build up on the windshield.  

If this doesn’t work there are more intense methods using 0000 Steel wool to remove any contamination from the windshield.   I also suppose the arms to could be too tight / loose pressure to the glass. 

qbrozen said:

tjc78 said:

andres3 said:

Must be a bad week for me with tires. The Sandman

I've seen two vehicles recently that had an inadequately tightened wheel come off. Thankfully, both were at low speeds, so not much danger to the occupants, but it really messed up the fender, door (I think), and probably some brake/suspension components. It would be really dangerous if that happened at highway speeds!

So it's probably good when adding 5 MM wheel spacers that your shop/mechanic lets you know you really should get some longer wheel bolts! Messing around with your safety is probably a bad idea.

I know it’s acceptable, but I’d be a little worried tracking a car with wheel spacers.  

I have done it. Put spacers, I believe 7.5mm, on my 300z when I was autocrossing it.

I put spacers on my 07 Wrangler. I mildly off-roaded it with no problem. Strangely enough in the past month or so I’ve seen an older Ranger on the side of the road missing a wheel and a newish Tacoma. Both were running bigger tires. Unfortunately there was an F-250 

au1994

Sorry about that. Don’t know how my comment about wheel spacers was mixed in with the wiper discussion.

In any event, I agree with @tjc78. It’s likely that you have some build up on both the glass and wipers. Use a good alcohol cleaner and you will probably be good to go. I’ll be doing the same thing on the X1. I’ve had to run it through a car wash a couple of times lately and the wipers were performing poorly the past two days.

kyfdx

I second cleaning the windshield.

I've used Bosch ICON for the last 3-4 years on the ZHP. About $40/pair at Advance Auto.
I really like them. Plus, very easy to install.

graphicguy

rny421 said:

I've got an update:

The Masachussets TLX for $18.5k was sold Should have scooped it up earlier. Oh well.

It's been an odd experience searching for the right TLX. I don't want to bend on my desired color combination, because I kind of regret settling on the Volvo.

When I call dealers to ask about the car, I already have my list of questions:

• Is it still in stock?
  
• Does it have two keys?
  
• Any scratches, dings, dents that aren't shown in the pictures?
  
• What is the tire tread depth
  
• Is it a former smoker's car?
  
• What is your dealer fee, and what does that fee include?
  

These are good things to ask, because it can help you determine what is a good deal. One dealer keeps talking about the price of the car, and treating their $750 dealership fee as if it is required by law. We're $500 apart, and I'm not budging.

Same thing with a different dealer I reached out to, their dealer fee was $499.

I called another dealership tonight that seems reasonable. Price of the car is the price of the car. All fees after that are the standard NYS tax, title, and DMV fees. No other "documentation fee." We'll see where this one takes me...

Another vote for a "one price" offer, everything included. They can divide the offer up anyway they want, but the amount of money coming out of your pocket doesn't change once the offer is made.

Used cars are a bit different, because it's hard to know how much the dealership has in the car. Still, if you've done a bit of research, you should be able to come to a fair offer. Just add in tax and license, and make that as your one, only, final, all inclusive offer. Let them figure out how to get you to drive the car over the curb with a tag on the car.

I'm like you. I hate to settle. If I have my mind made up on a make, model, options, color that I want, I tend not to settle for anything else.

stickguy

Yes, clean the window. Bon ami, 0000 steel wool, use it all to get to bare glass. Alcohol wipes on older blades. I remember once seeing a wiper restore kit. Had wipes, and a little blade cutter (almost like a knife sharpener) to hone a sharp edge on the blade, and supposedly expose fresh rubber. I never found it to buy at the store though.