Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

kyfdx

@breld

My son asked me today, "When are you getting the Golf R?"

au1994

kyfdx said:

@breld

My son asked me today, "When are you getting the Golf R?"

I’d say another month

ab348

28firefighter said:

This unicorn appeared on lease hackr from a dealer rep:
https://www.pacificbmw.com/vehicle-details/new-2018-bmw-3-series-330i-sedan-glendale-ca-id-21869745

$25XX upfront and $380/month plus tax, 36/10. Not a cheap loaner deal, but definitely a unicorn and a brand new car.

Nice interior, but what's up with the white patches on the body? Shipping film? Why would they not remove it before taking pictures?

28firefighter

If I had to guess, whoever custom ordered a car like that asked the dealer not remove the shipping film as they wanted to do it themselves and the dealer is figuring that the type of buyer for this car would want the same.

Mr_Shiftright

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

If you don't do any work yourself, and you don't join BMWCCA for parts discounts, you'll find even routine maintenance on this car quite expensive.

So a new radiator with labor might be $1,300, new power brake booster with labor around $1100, pads and rotors, probably $1200--$1800 with labor. right and left catalytic converters about $600 each + labor.

These are a VERY nice ride, so bring your rabbit's foot and maybe you'll get lucky. But if say you lose a transmission or blow a head gasket, you just junk the car.

A new radiator is $400 OEM
Hawk HPS pads run around $250 for both axles, $400 for four Centric rotors
Cats are expensive; that's why they make spark plug anti-foulers
Transmissions tend to be robust- assuming you drain/refill the ATF every 50k-60k miles. The Mechatronics seal is a major known issues; not horribly expensive to replace during a drain/fill.
The N62 engine is the major liability; VANOS, the coolant transfer pipe, valve cover/timing chain gaskets, and the garbage secondary air system are where you will usually find issues.
I'd avoid a car with the electronic suspension options as well.
On this car, the borderline illiteracy of the owner would give me pause.
Me, if I wanted an E65 I'd buy the best one I could find and stick $6k or so in the bank for the issues. I'd also take it to a good dealer to verify all software was up to date.
That said, I MUCH prefer the E38 Sport; much better looking, less fussy, and more fun to drive.

Everything you posted though is based either on good luck or a lot of parts hustling and DIY. Quoting parts prices is like comparing the price of a lamb chop in a supermarket to ordering a lamb dinner at a fancy restaurant.

Most BMW 750 owners are going to be "dining out".

Michaell

Got some more information about my BMW Drive event tomorrow.

There will be 3-, 4- and 5-series available, along with the de riguer SAV's, and they've also promised to have an M4 on hand.

I've got two hours, and no idea how many vehicles I'll get to drive in that time. Hoping to hit all the cars, and maybe the X1.

Promotional Video

stickguy

got first round of quotes in on a Jetta lease today. Not quite where we want to be. Need to request the dealer sharpens up the old pencil and eats another $1k on their end to get payment down to the princesses threshold. If not, might be revisiting the plan of attack.

stickguy

so, asking for a friend, but right now, what models have the most killer lease deals going? As in, you can get a still nice car, with a reasonable feature set, for really cheap?

Though pretty sure that we are going to get to the usual stall point of there being what you can get for what you want to pay, and what it costs to get what you want. And how much you will stretch the budget to bridge the gap. The princess really had hopes for a $200/mo payment, Or a fair bit below. Which I am sure I can get her. She just won't like that car. When we last looked, and discovered insurance was lower than expected, she seemed good bumping up to $250/month. Not sure though if she wants to stretch that number again though!

28firefighter

I haven't seen anything truly worth leasing at the sub-200 price point. I think a Civic Si could be had for mid-200s, that would be a decent deal but don't know if she drives stick.

New Jettas from what I can see, even the base ones, are leasing in the 220-230s+ tax. You could probably get her into a lower trim Elantra, but do you really want that?

Admittedly my expertise is not in the Toyota/Honda/Hyundai camp which is where most of that $200ish payment will be. I also don't think the American cars have enough incentives to hit that target right now, either.

28firefighter

What does she like? And what is your payment on your car, if you don't mind me asking?

Michaell

stickguy said:

got first round of quotes in on a Jetta lease today. Not quite where we want to be. Need to request the dealer sharpens up the old pencil and eats another $1k on their end to get payment down to the princesses threshold. If not, might be revisiting the plan of attack.

What trim level?

If you don't mind my asking, where are you now and where do you want to be? The lease numbers on the 2019 Jetta are still just OK.

benjaminh

stickguy said:

so, asking for a friend, but right now, what models have the most killer lease deals going? As in, you can get a still nice car, with a reasonable feature set, for really cheap?

Though pretty sure that we are going to get to the usual stall point of there being what you can get for what you want to pay, and what it costs to get what you want. And how much you will stretch the budget to bridge the gap. The princess really had hopes for a $200/mo payment, Or a fair bit below. Which I am sure I can get her. She just won't like that car. When we last looked, and discovered insurance was lower than expected, she seemed good bumping up to $250/month. Not sure though if she wants to stretch that number again though!

For $250 a month you might be able to lease an Acura ILX.

qbrozen

Not sure what features she wants but my sis was about to go check out the forte5 before she wound up closing a deal on an Equinox LT for only $27/mo more. Of course, that involved a good bit of texting and calling me while the salesperson is whispering in her ear. He started at $1500 DAS and $299/mo. WHAT? No, told her we'll get her something FAR nicer for that money. We got her to $500 DAS and $227/mo all inclusive (39/10k) on $28.8k MSRP AND them paying her remaining 4 Buick payments at $199 ea. 

qbrozen

For $250, how about a mazda3 touring? About $450 DAS to hit $250/mo. 

Cruze diesel or Civic SI both showing ip as $1400 DAS and $240/mo.

breld

kyfdx said:

@breld My son asked me today, "When are you getting the Golf R?"

  

We’re not even getting to drive the Golf this week, as we’re vacationing down in Orlando with the kids plus my stepdaughters boyfriend.  

We rented two cars so not everyone had to be on the same schedule - a new Pacifica, which is a very nice van, and a Corolla.  Boy the Corolla’s reputation as a bare bones boring car is well-deserved.  I imagine the new model is loads better - it’d have to be.  

benjaminh

Mazda3 official lease offer....

"2018 Mazda3 Sedan Sport Automatic Transmission
LEASE OFFER
$199/Month, 36-Month Lease, $1,999 due at Lease Signing. Monthly payment includes $595 acquisition fee. No security deposit required. Excludes taxes, title and fees.
MSRP $19,145 plus $895 destination charge. Payment based on capitalized cost of $16,975 after $1,100 Mazda Customer Lease Support. Total payments of $7,165. Dealer participation required. Not all lessees will qualify for lowest payment through participating lender. Some payments higher, some lower based on residency and other factors. Lessee responsible for excess wear and mileage over 36,000 at $0.15/mile. Purchase option at lease end for $9,820 plus tax or price negotiated at signing. Take new retail delivery from dealer stock by 9/4/2018."

Seems similar to Acura's ILX official offer....

"2018 ILX 8 Speed Dual-Clutch Featured Special Lease
$199 Per month for 36 months.
$2,499 Total due at signing.
Includes down payment with no security deposit. Excludes taxes, titles and either dealer fees or documentary service fee. For well-qualified lessees.
Closed-end lease for 2018 ILX 8 Speed Dual-Clutch vehicles (DE2F3JJW) available from July 6, 2018 through September 4, 2018, available to well-qualified lessees approved by Acura Financial Services. Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings. Lease offers vary based on MSRP. MSRP $29,095.00 (includes destination, excludes tax, license, title fee, registration, documentation fee, options, insurance and the like). Actual net capitalized cost $21,147.53. Net capitalized cost includes $595 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $7,164.00. Option to purchase at lease end $14,838.45.Must take new retail delivery on vehicle from dealer stock by September 4, 2018"

stickguy

Knew I could count on you people. She is sitting next to me, so floating ideas. Showed her the Forte got a big fat No.

She liked the Mazda 3 and ILX ideas though. She loves both of those! 3 would need to be a touring though. And ILX, could be interesting. We might be out looking some next week. Or tomorrow.

benjaminh

@stickguy: What equipment is "must have" for her?

The challenge is, of course, that only the base models of these two cars get close to the $200 a month payment. Acura's lease incentives of c. $5000 on the ILX is what is making the payments on these two cars the same.

Would she consider a used TLX? A new TLX is really worth it imho, but depending on the downpayment that's more like $325 a month.

Is she thinking of this lease as one of those "almost no money paid at delivery" ones? If that's the case, she might have to give up some options or bump her monthly up?

The Sonata is also a bargain to lease. Maybe the most bang for the buck on the market? Has AndroidAuto/CarPlay, etc., which the Mazda3 and the ILX do NOT have.

"Lease a 2018 Sonata 4dr Sdn SE (28402F45) for $199 per month for 36 months with $2,199 due at lease signing. Excludes registration, tax, title and license. Closed end lease for 2018 Sonata 4dr Sdn SE (28402F45) available from 8/1/18 through 9/4/18, to well-qualified lessees approved by Hyundai Motor Finance. Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings. Offer shown based on $2,199 due at lease signing (includes $199 first payment and $2,000 capitalized cost reduction). No security deposit required. MSRP $22,935 (includes destination, excludes tax, license, title, registration, documentation fees, options, insurance and the like). Actual net capitalized cost $18,079. Net capitalized cost includes $650 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $7,164. Option to purchase at lease end $12,156."

https://www.hyundaiusa.com/financial-tools/special-offers.aspx

stickguy

just chatted more. going out Tuesday after work to look at all 3. The ILX we did drive last year, and she seems to remember being underwhelmed. So, I doubt that would work $ wise either. The 3, well, could be interesting.

The Mazda, Acura and VW dealers are all close together so can hit all 3 in one evening if we get an early start. I think the VW will still win though.

benjaminh

@stickguy : What's wrong again with handing off your nice Elantra Sport to her? Might be a better car than an ILX, Mazda3, or Sonata for her? It's pretty loaded, isn't it? And powerful.

qbrozen

Here is mazda3 touring vs ILX base

nyccarguy

qbrozen said:

For $250, how about a mazda3 touring? About $450 DAS to hit $250/mo. 

Cruze diesel or Civic SI both showing ip as $1400 DAS and $240/mo.

You are having WAY too much fun with this honcker app @qbrozen.  Cruze Diesel for $240/month?  10K per year?  Sedan or Hatch?

stickguy

this honker thing, you put in your request, and if you want it, just hit accept and that is it? Then you find out the dealer and go get the car?

wanna run a 2019 Jetta R line for me?

stickguy

she liked the Mazda. and the price. But, that is without tax, tags, etc. So I would assume if you were doing $1,000 total at inception you are looking at at least $250/mo payments. The mazda is certainly sportier but no where near as smooth or comfy.

gotta do a little research here on what the dealers have.

stickguy

someone asked about the sport. I pay $327/month (another 4 years). So over her desired budget. Would have to refi anyway, probably out to 60 (or 72) months to get where she wants to be. Easier to just get her own car.

qbrozen

stickguy said:

she liked the Mazda. and the price. But, that is without tax, tags, etc. So I would assume if you were doing $1,000 total at inception you are looking at at least $250/mo payments. The mazda is certainly sportier but no where near as smooth or comfy. gotta do a little research here on what the dealers have.

Price from Honcker includes EVERYTHING. 

And, yes, I am having way too much fun with it. I am constantly browsing it.

qbrozen

qbrozen

Notice the Chevy is only 27 mos.

qbrozen

This is the $250/mo bargain right here.

qbrozen

OH! I forgot to give you a tip. If you download Honcker and add cars to your favorites, after a few days, they'll put those in your favorites on "sale" for a few bucks less. I've noticed most are about $6 less. So that Cherokee would become $245, for instance.

stickguy

I might be getting a jeep tomorrow..

so, how does this work? You sign up for the app, and if you like the offer, hit lease now, and you then find out what dealer it is, but just go and get the car? And that due at signing includes tax, DMV, dealer doc fees, etc.? All in?

thanks for the Jetta. The quote I got actually looks fair then. $279/mo, $1,000 DAS for 36/36,000. so more miles than your honcker quote, for roughly the same price.

I still plan to try and haggle them down to $255/mo.

benjaminh

Honda's offer for a 2018 Civic LX is in the ballpark....

"2018 Civic Sedan Continuously Variable Transmission LX Featured Special Lease$189 Per month for 36 months.
$2,199 total due at signing."

benjaminh

@qbrozen : Out of curiosity, what do the numbers look like for a 2018 Acura TLX Tech 2.4 (if available)? Thanks.

stickguy

benjaminh said:

Honda's offer for a 2018 Civic LX is in the ballpark....

"2018 Civic Sedan Continuously Variable Transmission LX Featured Special Lease$189 Per month for 36 months.
$2,199 total due at signing."

there is a problem with those offers. They exclude a lot of $$ you have to come up with. Tax, doc fees, DMV, at minimum. Not sure about 1st payment and the lease fee. So in Jersey, you are looking at probably another $1,500 on top of the $2,199 to get the payment. Or in reverse, closer to $300/month if you did a try sign and drive. Leases are classic case of the devil is in the details (fine print).

benjaminh

stickguy said:

benjaminh said:

Honda's offer for a 2018 Civic LX is in the ballpark....

"2018 Civic Sedan Continuously Variable Transmission LX Featured Special Lease$189 Per month for 36 months.
$2,199 total due at signing."

there is a problem with those offers. They exclude a lot of $$ you have to come up with. Tax, doc fees, DMV, at minimum. Not sure about 1st payment and the lease fee. So in Jersey, you are looking at probably another $1,500 on top of the $2,199 to get the payment. Or in reverse, closer to $300/month if you did a try sign and drive. Leases are classic case of the devil is in the details (fine print).

Indeed. But if a Mazda3 is in range, then perhaps a Civic should be at least given a test drive. The lease offers for the two cars seem almost the same.

Is she really looking to put nothing beyond the first payment and fees due at signing? I don't think that's likely to work for the monthly payment she's looking for.

roadburner

Mr_Shiftright said:

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

If you don't do any work yourself, and you don't join BMWCCA for parts discounts, you'll find even routine maintenance on this car quite expensive.

So a new radiator with labor might be $1,300, new power brake booster with labor around $1100, pads and rotors, probably $1200--$1800 with labor. right and left catalytic converters about $600 each + labor.

These are a VERY nice ride, so bring your rabbit's foot and maybe you'll get lucky. But if say you lose a transmission or blow a head gasket, you just junk the car.

A new radiator is $400 OEM
Hawk HPS pads run around $250 for both axles, $400 for four Centric rotors
Cats are expensive; that's why they make spark plug anti-foulers
Transmissions tend to be robust- assuming you drain/refill the ATF every 50k-60k miles. The Mechatronics seal is a major known issues; not horribly expensive to replace during a drain/fill.
The N62 engine is the major liability; VANOS, the coolant transfer pipe, valve cover/timing chain gaskets, and the garbage secondary air system are where you will usually find issues.
I'd avoid a car with the electronic suspension options as well.
On this car, the borderline illiteracy of the owner would give me pause.
Me, if I wanted an E65 I'd buy the best one I could find and stick $6k or so in the bank for the issues. I'd also take it to a good dealer to verify all software was up to date.
That said, I MUCH prefer the E38 Sport; much better looking, less fussy, and more fun to drive.

Everything you posted though is based either on good luck or a lot of parts hustling and DIY. Quoting parts prices is like comparing the price of a lamb chop in a supermarket to ordering a lamb dinner at a fancy restaurant.

Most BMW 750 owners are going to be "dining out".

For the radiator prices I Googled the OEM part number: 17117519209. You can get a Behr radiator for under $200.
Brakes? Prices are from Tirerack.com.
That's just using a little common sense- it's hardly "good luck" or "hustling."

andres3

So I'm daily driving the Alltrack now, and my wife is stuck in the Kia Optima penalty box for the next year.

Anyone want to take bets on when she complains the Kia doesn't have Sirius subscription?

Need to tell my insurance, as I might save some money by driving a wagon the most miles.

Oh, I took the curvy way home today in the Alltrack, and drove it not only like I stole it, but like I was trying to outrun Police Radio!

It handles superbly. Really impressed what it can do out of measly 205 tires with a lot of sidewall. This was the first time I really "pushed" the car. It really handles like a higher-sitting GTI with more cargo room and less HP.

benjaminh

@andres3 : If you get the chance, I'd like to see a pic of your Alltrack. I like those. Almost like an Audi wagon/suv combo for less money.

qbrozen

stickguy said:

I might be getting a jeep tomorrow.. so, how does this work? You sign up for the app, and if you like the offer, hit lease now, and you then find out what dealer it is, but just go and get the car? And that due at signing includes tax, DMV, dealer doc fees, etc.? All in? thanks for the Jetta. The quote I got actually looks fair then. $279/mo, $1,000 DAS for 36/36,000. so more miles than your honcker quote, for roughly the same price. I still plan to try and haggle them down to $255/mo.

Yes, that is my understandjng of how it works. You can adjust miles, months, and money down. 

Your daughter's info should be input when you sign up though. It asks for SS and does a soft credit pull so the numbers it shows you are accurate. It also asks things like what you are currently driving so it can apply conquest/loyalty as appropriate. So you may or may not see different numbers than me.

qbrozen

benjaminh said:

@qbrozen : Out of curiosity, what do the numbers look like for a 2018 Acura TLX Tech 2.4 (if available)? Thanks.

No 2018s in my area. Cheapest 2019 is $415/$1600 for 36/10k.

nyccarguy

I downloaded honcker last night.  This is probably worse for most of us than lease hacker.

”Very powerful the dark side is.”

stickguy

This honcker thing is getting me really itchy. Maybe back to plan A after all. Actually just sounds like trueCar but for leases, not buying.

I think I need to have the kid check her benefits at work to see if she gets discount auto financing (since she does now work at a big bank, seems logical). She does seem to like the Elantra (I have barely seen it the last week since she has effectively stolen it from me). Getting good MPG on it. I did fill up Wednesday night, and after 3 days of commuting (including at least 2 times stuck in traffic for a while) and various local running around, the TC was sitting at a tick over 36. So cheap to run. And only just broke 6,000 miles.

assuming the bogey of $250/mo payments, could sell her that instead and for about the same money up front, she could finance for 5 or 6 years (intending to pay off early) and just own something instead. Depending on what we settle on, but she would certainly get the good family rate. A run through Carmax first though makes sense. Might be smarter to sell it that way and subsidize a new one instead. Or not.

financing, after 3 years (of a 5 year loan), would owe about roughly $7,000. A lease buy out would be about $15,000 + tax.

wonder if HMF would let us switch the loan into her name instead? Would keep it in the family, warranty intact, etc.

Better go check my payoff! Right after I download Honcker...

ab348

stickguy said:

This honcker thing is getting me really itchy. Maybe back to plan A after all. Actually just sounds like trueCar but for leases, not buying.

...

Better go check my payoff! Right after I download Honcker...

Be real careful. I could see that enabling your tendencies to the point where you end up with a dozen Volvos and BMWs in your driveway at the same time. Just before the sheriff comes to haul you away...

stickguy

paying your bills is optional anyway. Right?

pensfan83

@graphicguy I think I recall seeing on pictures of your car that you bought it from Superior Acura. Have you ever dealt with their Honda store? 

28firefighter

I don’t have Honckr because it isn’t available here. 

henryn

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

If you don't do any work yourself, and you don't join BMWCCA for parts discounts, you'll find even routine maintenance on this car quite expensive.

So a new radiator with labor might be $1,300, new power brake booster with labor around $1100, pads and rotors, probably $1200--$1800 with labor. right and left catalytic converters about $600 each + labor.

These are a VERY nice ride, so bring your rabbit's foot and maybe you'll get lucky. But if say you lose a transmission or blow a head gasket, you just junk the car.

A new radiator is $400 OEM
Hawk HPS pads run around $250 for both axles, $400 for four Centric rotors
Cats are expensive; that's why they make spark plug anti-foulers
Transmissions tend to be robust- assuming you drain/refill the ATF every 50k-60k miles. The Mechatronics seal is a major known issues; not horribly expensive to replace during a drain/fill.
The N62 engine is the major liability; VANOS, the coolant transfer pipe, valve cover/timing chain gaskets, and the garbage secondary air system are where you will usually find issues.
I'd avoid a car with the electronic suspension options as well.
On this car, the borderline illiteracy of the owner would give me pause.
Me, if I wanted an E65 I'd buy the best one I could find and stick $6k or so in the bank for the issues. I'd also take it to a good dealer to verify all software was up to date.
That said, I MUCH prefer the E38 Sport; much better looking, less fussy, and more fun to drive.

Everything you posted though is based either on good luck or a lot of parts hustling and DIY. Quoting parts prices is like comparing the price of a lamb chop in a supermarket to ordering a lamb dinner at a fancy restaurant.

Most BMW 750 owners are going to be "dining out".

For the radiator prices I Googled the OEM part number: 17117519209. You can get a Behr radiator for under $200.
Brakes? Prices are from Tirerack.com.
That's just using a little common sense- it's hardly "good luck" or "hustling."

Having more than one car allows you the luxury of cross shopping, and mail ordering your parts. I like to use Rock Auto to look up the part number, and then google for it. On average, Rock Auto is cheaper than Amazon, but with shipping Amazon often wins out. Especially considering the free 2 day shipping. I wonder what 2 day shipping for brake rotors would cost if you actually had to pay for it?

Sometimes Ebay will surprise you with a really good deal, but you have to be prepared to wait for rather slow shipping if you go that route.

Mr_Shiftright

That would be tough for me, to lease a car that could potentially get 50 mpg, and then drive it fewer than 10,000 miles a year.

kyfdx

pensfan83 said:

@graphicguy I think I recall seeing on pictures of your car that you bought it from Superior Acura. Have you ever dealt with their Honda store? 

I've shopped the Superior Honda store... Never made a deal there, though.

Bought from a few other Cincinnati dealerships, though.

Mr_Shiftright

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

roadburner said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

If you don't do any work yourself, and you don't join BMWCCA for parts discounts, you'll find even routine maintenance on this car quite expensive.

So a new radiator with labor might be $1,300, new power brake booster with labor around $1100, pads and rotors, probably $1200--$1800 with labor. right and left catalytic converters about $600 each + labor.

These are a VERY nice ride, so bring your rabbit's foot and maybe you'll get lucky. But if say you lose a transmission or blow a head gasket, you just junk the car.

A new radiator is $400 OEM
Hawk HPS pads run around $250 for both axles, $400 for four Centric rotors
Cats are expensive; that's why they make spark plug anti-foulers
Transmissions tend to be robust- assuming you drain/refill the ATF every 50k-60k miles. The Mechatronics seal is a major known issues; not horribly expensive to replace during a drain/fill.
The N62 engine is the major liability; VANOS, the coolant transfer pipe, valve cover/timing chain gaskets, and the garbage secondary air system are where you will usually find issues.
I'd avoid a car with the electronic suspension options as well.
On this car, the borderline illiteracy of the owner would give me pause.
Me, if I wanted an E65 I'd buy the best one I could find and stick $6k or so in the bank for the issues. I'd also take it to a good dealer to verify all software was up to date.
That said, I MUCH prefer the E38 Sport; much better looking, less fussy, and more fun to drive.

Everything you posted though is based either on good luck or a lot of parts hustling and DIY. Quoting parts prices is like comparing the price of a lamb chop in a supermarket to ordering a lamb dinner at a fancy restaurant.

Most BMW 750 owners are going to be "dining out".

For the radiator prices I Googled the OEM part number: 17117519209. You can get a Behr radiator for under $200.
Brakes? Prices are from Tirerack.com.
That's just using a little common sense- it's hardly "good luck" or "hustling."

Yeah, okay, and the labor to install and the extra fittings you need, and hoses perhaps and coolant and you're right where I said you'd be. And you'd be bringing your own part to the repair shop, which as you know they don't like.

Now really, how many 750iL owners install their own radiators? The "world" isn't like us, you know.