Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

tjc78

@breld
I can actually relate to the trim level thing. I love my Ram, but definitely wish it was more loaded up. If I could swap out that easily I sure would.

stickguy

Features are important. That’s the bigger reason I swapped out mavericks. The better MPG is really just a bonus!

Of course getting paid to upgrade did not hurt either.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

I'll give you $400 for it and take care of the battery myself.

No low ballers, I know what I got!😤

a dead 25 YO Chrysler that leaks like a sieve?

Make that $300, and you deliver it.

It doesn’t leak any more, I fixed it this morning. So keep your money, it’s going on cars & bids as “gently used”. 🤣

oldfarmer50

qbrozen said:

kyfdx said:

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

yup, my thinking is with OF. In my case, woman admitted to fault on the scene. After having time to think, she (and/or husband) decided they were pushed into me.

Even if that were true, as I understand it, she still holds liability for hitting you. She can then go after the third driver for damage to her car and for the cost she accrued from paying you.

When it comes to money I wouldn’t trust my own grandma to tell the truth.

She owes for him, but she can't collect from the driver that pushed her into him, except for her own damage.

That's not what the adjuster told me. She said that since the woman in the middle claimed he pushed her into me, he's on the hook for both vehicles (well, 3 including his own) because there is no way to prove otherwise and he was at the rear so he gets all the blame. I don't recall now who the insurance even was (this was '04 or '05), but they came out, took a look at my wife's Pacifica, and cut us a check for a couple grand for the misaligned bumper.

Weren’t you a witness? Couldn’t you have gone to bat for the poor guy getting railroaded by that sharpie?

oldfarmer50

corvette said:

@qbrozen - I don't think I'd go for a four banger Silverado. It's 2.7 liters, but from what I've heard, it performs more like the 4.3 liter naturally aspirated V6, whereas Ford's 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6 performs closer to its V8 opton.

Ford has a 3.3L NA V6 on their base pickup good for 290hp.

That old 4.3L Chevy V6 is a reliable engine. Unfortunately I don’t think they make it any more.

It’s just me but in a truck I wouldn’t want a turbo. Too many things to break.

oldfarmer50

roadburner said:

Three more buyers have contacted me...

A rust free old school Jeep is very desirable in my area as most have frame rot just behind the rear axel. Just curious, price? Mileage?

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

I still get them for my 2013 RDX.

They just offered me about $26k for my now 9 yo Mustang.

Michaell

Got an updated offer of just over $16K for the Outback - also coming up on 9 years old

stickguy

Carvana sent me an updated quote for the maverick. It went down. Only $23,500. Weird since MSRP was $34k and they have similar ones with fewer features listed still for about $40k

Kinda curious what carmax would hit it at. Not that I plan to sell if course.

breld

Purely anecdotally, I have found Carvana to be ultra conservative in their offers these days, compared to Vroom and Carmax. Often by several thousand dollars.

breld

Anyone want to share their experiences and/or opinions on “Japanese import” versus “muscle car” fun cars? I know several of you own or have owned one or the other (or both).

The Integra Type S is due in within a couple months but I really enjoyed the recent test drive of the Mustang GT. Totally different characters but both kinda serve the same purpose for me.

As a teenager, I had pictures of Mustang GTs on my wall and my brother bought me a Mustang history book for my birthday one year, so that was my obsession early on. But then I chose to get a 1990 Civic Si and never looked back as I progressed to a Prelude, TSX, the Civic Type R, etc.

au1994

oldfarmer50 said:

corvette said:

@qbrozen - I don't think I'd go for a four banger Silverado. It's 2.7 liters, but from what I've heard, it performs more like the 4.3 liter naturally aspirated V6, whereas Ford's 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6 performs closer to its V8 opton.

Ford has a 3.3L NA V6 on their base pickup good for 290hp.

That old 4.3L Chevy V6 is a reliable engine. Unfortunately I don’t think they make it any more.

It’s just me but in a truck I wouldn’t want a turbo. Too many things to break.

I think it would be worth a drive. The numbers are impressive…something like 310 hp and 420 ft/lbs.

18/21 mpg but that is heavily dependent on your right foot.

tifighter

@breld said:
Anyone want to share their experiences and/or opinions on “Japanese import” versus “muscle car” fun cars? I know several of you own or have owned one or the other (or both).

The Integra Type S is due in within a couple months but I really enjoyed the recent test drive of the Mustang GT. Totally different characters but both kinda serve the same purpose for me.

As a teenager, I had pictures of Mustang GTs on my wall and my brother bought me a Mustang history book for my birthday one year, so that was my obsession early on. But then I chose to get a 1990 Civic Si and never looked back as I progressed to a Prelude, TSX, the Civic Type R, etc.

You enjoyed driving the Mustang, had pictures of them on your wall growing up and have never had one. And you had a CTR. It feels like you’ve already answered your own question.

mjfloyd1

breld said:

Oh yeah - I also went from a 3 year lease to a 2 year. That term has a fighting chance.

And @mjfloyd1 - I’ll be okay without the black optic. Really….I will. 😀

You beat me to it!

I anticipate another swap😂

stickguy

Get the mustang. Scratch that itch. You’ve basically already done the Integra.

Hypothetically, me, I’m more of a smaller foreign type of guy and go with the Acura.

Michaell

breld said:

Anyone want to share their experiences and/or opinions on “Japanese import” versus “muscle car” fun cars? I know several of you own or have owned one or the other (or both).

The Integra Type S is due in within a couple months but I really enjoyed the recent test drive of the Mustang GT. Totally different characters but both kinda serve the same purpose for me.

As a teenager, I had pictures of Mustang GTs on my wall and my brother bought me a Mustang history book for my birthday one year, so that was my obsession early on. But then I chose to get a 1990 Civic Si and never looked back as I progressed to a Prelude, TSX, the Civic Type R, etc.

So, what it comes down to is this ....

Are you Dom, or are you Brian?

But, I second the comments from @tifighter above. Get the Mustang, since you've not had one yet (and, you'll have two in the garage).

jmonroe1

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

I'll give you $400 for it and take care of the battery myself.

No low ballers, I know what I got!😤

a dead 25 YO Chrysler that leaks like a sieve?

Make that $300, and you deliver it.

It doesn’t leak any more, I fixed it this morning. So keep your money, it’s going on cars & bids as “gently used up.” 🤣

————————————————
Hey look, I fixed that for you.

jmonroe

mjfloyd1

@breld - buy what YOU like to drive. I can see pluses and minuses both ways.

Besides, neither will be in your garage too long so you can just trade for the other one😂

andres3

corvette said:

IDK... a lot of police departments stopped responding to non-injury accidents during COVID. I didn't notice the expired insurance card until later.

If I smell anything shady like expired insurance I'm for sure injured the next time something happens.

Speaking of fake injuries, the Chevy I hit (with 1 passenger and 1 driver) miraculously both attended the doctor about 30 and 31 days after the collision where I tapped their back bumper and they are both miraculously injured according to their lawyer, to the tune of asking for like $35,000 in medical/pain/suffering damages, or something around that ball park, and yet no estimates for vehicle damage were provided; likely because the real losses are 1/35th that amount or less.

andres3

kyfdx said:

Even if you called the police, they aren't going to enter a finding of fault on an accident they didn't witness. Your only hope is for the other driver to admit fault in front of the police.

If he denies fault, the insurance company will surely require you to pay your deductible.

They might cite and issue tickets to the at-fault driver though.

andres3

xwesx said:

corvette said:

IDK... a lot of police departments stopped responding to non-injury accidents during COVID. I didn't notice the expired insurance card until later.

Well, that could work for you. Generally, if you're dealing with an uninsured motorist, the credibility of anything the other party has to say is immediately called into question, and your insurance company will take your version of events as true.

I'd agree, but somehow I know Insurance companies don't think logically or with any reasoning.

andres3

oldfarmer50 said:

qbrozen said:

yup, my thinking is with OF. In my case, woman admitted to fault on the scene. After having time to think, she (and/or husband) decided they were pushed into me.

Even if that were true, as I understand it, she still holds liability for hitting you. She can then go after the third driver for damage to her car and for the cost she accrued from paying you.

When it comes to money I wouldn’t trust my own grandma to tell the truth.

I don't think it works that way, but I bet there are varying experiences here.

nyccarguy

@breld

I vote for the Mustang. The way things are going, this might be your last chance to buy a N/A V8 RWD car with a 6MT.

qbrozen

breld said:

Purely anecdotally, I have found Carvana to be ultra conservative in their offers these days, compared to Vroom and Carmax. Often by several thousand dollars.

The offers on my WRX:

AL: $24,800... then upped it to $25k the next day.
Carvana: $25,133
Vroom: $23,500

AL texted me yesterday and asked what it would take. I told him I'd take $26k, and anything less means I'd want to trade it and get the tax credit. He wrote back a few mins later and said he asked and they told him $25k is all the money.

I still haven't gotten to test drive. Finding a Mav is, of course, hard. A dealer 30 mins away shows they have an XLT on the lot. I haven't asked yet if that's real. I don't know when my schedule will allow me to go. This is why I haven't even test driven a vehicle in ... I think years now.

I guess if I was really bold, I'd sell the Rex to Carvana and order a Mav through a discounted place, which would wind up being about the same net as trying to trade and pay MSRP, and probably be way less effort on my part. But, as stick said, when the heck would I even get the Mav?

au1994

breld said:

Anyone want to share their experiences and/or opinions on “Japanese import” versus “muscle car” fun cars? I know several of you own or have owned one or the other (or both).

The Integra Type S is due in within a couple months but I really enjoyed the recent test drive of the Mustang GT. Totally different characters but both kinda serve the same purpose for me.

As a teenager, I had pictures of Mustang GTs on my wall and my brother bought me a Mustang history book for my birthday one year, so that was my obsession early on. But then I chose to get a 1990 Civic Si and never looked back as I progressed to a Prelude, TSX, the Civic Type R, etc.

Get the V-8.

nyccarguy

qbrozen said:

breld said:

Purely anecdotally, I have found Carvana to be ultra conservative in their offers these days, compared to Vroom and Carmax. Often by several thousand dollars.

The offers on my WRX:

AL: $24,800... then upped it to $25k the next day.
Carvana: $25,133
Vroom: $23,500

AL texted me yesterday and asked what it would take. I told him I'd take $26k, and anything less means I'd want to trade it and get the tax credit. He wrote back a few mins later and said he asked and they told him $25k is all the money.

I still haven't gotten to test drive. Finding a Mav is, of course, hard. A dealer 30 mins away shows they have an XLT on the lot. I haven't asked yet if that's real. I don't know when my schedule will allow me to go. This is why I haven't even test driven a vehicle in ... I think years now.

I guess if I was really bold, I'd sell the Rex to Carvana and order a Mav through a discounted place, which would wind up being about the same net as trying to trade and pay MSRP, and probably be way less effort on my part. But, as stick said, when the heck would I even get the Mav?

What's your buyout on that WRX?

Sandman6472

Both our vehicles will be nine years old this December also. I guess 2014 was a god year for folks buying new vehicles in here. She got the A3 on December 1st and I got the Golf on the 12th after taking a week to decide. Looking back, it was the right thing to do since I really didn't like the 2014 Tucson SE I had bought just the year before. The only positive was the higher seating and better ingress/egress it provided. Even though I lost a bit on the trade, was the right thing to do & that's exactly why I'm so hesitant to do anything right now. Since there's nothing out there that I've really got to have, doing nothing is the best course of action. Hoping the new 2024 Hyundai Kona will give me what I'm looking for. And just like the Golf, I'll just know within minutes behind the wheel if it will be my next purchase.
And truth be told, the Golf still gives me that silly grin whenever I see it...still!

Sandman6472

Renewed my Sirius/XM subscription for $4.99/month plus fees on October 4th. Wife tried to do it for hers about an hour ago but was told that promo ended on the day I bought mine. Didn't take long for the guy on the other end to agree to the same price for her so obviously, they have wiggle room to keep a customer subscribed. Since both our vehicles don't have Apple CarPlay, getting Sirius/XM is a good compromise. As of now, I've got almost 1000 songs in my iTunes account which I use at work all the time. If the price of Sirius/XM ever gets too high, I always have my iTunes account to play so I do have choices here.

qbrozen

nyccarguy said:

qbrozen said:

breld said:

Purely anecdotally, I have found Carvana to be ultra conservative in their offers these days, compared to Vroom and Carmax. Often by several thousand dollars.

The offers on my WRX:

AL: $24,800... then upped it to $25k the next day.
Carvana: $25,133
Vroom: $23,500

AL texted me yesterday and asked what it would take. I told him I'd take $26k, and anything less means I'd want to trade it and get the tax credit. He wrote back a few mins later and said he asked and they told him $25k is all the money.

I still haven't gotten to test drive. Finding a Mav is, of course, hard. A dealer 30 mins away shows they have an XLT on the lot. I haven't asked yet if that's real. I don't know when my schedule will allow me to go. This is why I haven't even test driven a vehicle in ... I think years now.

I guess if I was really bold, I'd sell the Rex to Carvana and order a Mav through a discounted place, which would wind up being about the same net as trying to trade and pay MSRP, and probably be way less effort on my part. But, as stick said, when the heck would I even get the Mav?

What's your buyout on that WRX?

under $21k

breld

Over a year ago, I casually put my name on a list for a new Corvette at a local dealer selling at MSRP and just now got a call that I could be in the queue to place an order.

Doubt I’d actually do it, but I may have some fun playing around with the configurator.

stickguy

Q, what’s AL?

28firefighter

I’d do the Mustang (or even better the Vette)! Change it up a bit.

carnaught

Go for the Vette @breld.

qbrozen

Dangit. I want this. But it would make my payment go up, which is the wrong direction. Interest rates are brutal right now.

qbrozen

stickguy said:

Q, what’s AL?

autolenders

jmonroe1

qbrozen said:

Dangit. I want this. But it would make my payment go up, which is the wrong direction. Interest rates are brutal right now.

————————————————
But it’s reduced. That otta help with the interest…a little.

jmonroe

xwesx

Huh. That's strange. I cannot access Carvana. At all.

xwesx

What's the status on some of your inventory, Q? Like the Mini...?

explorerx4

A new Colorado 4x4 starts at about 36.5K

qbrozen

@explorerx4 said:
A new Colorado 4x4 starts at about 36.5K

Yeah I was just pricing one. Comes to like $38.5k with a couple of basics and the tow package. If I could get $5k off ….

qbrozen

@xwesx said:
What's the status on some of your inventory, Q? Like the Mini...?

The mini lies dormant atop a lift. Alto awaits further wrapping. Car projects have taken a back seat to trying to get the garage done. Yesterday, I dug the trench and ran the wire from the basement box to the garage subpanel. I’m hoping to at least get lights and outlets done this weekend.

stickguy

qbrozen said:

Dangit. I want this. But it would make my payment go up, which is the wrong direction. Interest rates are brutal right now.

looks OK but those vintage Colorados always seem cheesy to me. Seems pricey though for a going on 5 YO unit. well equipped at least.

stickguy

qbrozen said:

stickguy said:

Q, what’s AL?

autolenders

Went there many times to look or test drive. never did find anything I felt like buying though.

jmonroe1

qbrozen said:

@explorerx4 said:

A new Colorado 4x4 starts at about 36.5K

Yeah I was just pricing one. Comes to like $38.5k with a couple of basics and the tow package. If I could get $5k off ….

————————————————
And when do you plan to awaken from that dream?

jmonroe

qbrozen

stickguy said:

looks OK but those vintage Colorados always seem cheesy to me. Seems pricey though for a going on 5 YO unit. well equipped at least.

Believe it or not, it is a decent price. MMR is $30k.

jmonroe1

qbrozen said:

@xwesx said:

What's the status on some of your inventory, Q? Like the Mini...?

The mini lies dormant atop a lift. Alto awaits further wrapping. Car projects have taken a back seat to trying to get the garage done. Yesterday, I dug the trench and ran the wire from the basement box to the garage subpanel. I’m hoping to at least get lights and outlets done this weekend.

————————————————
I don’t want to insult you but make sure the panel in the stand alone garage is a true “subpanel” where the ground and neutral bus bars ARE NOT tied together electrically. This typically means you need a 4 conductor cable (black, red, white and bare or green insulated ground wire) running between the main house panel and the stand alone garage subpanel.

It’s not rocket surgery but you CANNOT connect the neutral and ground wire to the same point electrically in a “subpanel” like you do in the main panel in the house.

jmonroe

kyfdx

qbrozen said:

@xwesx said:

What's the status on some of your inventory, Q? Like the Mini...?

The mini lies dormant atop a lift. Alto awaits further wrapping. Car projects have taken a back seat to trying to get the garage done. Yesterday, I dug the trench and ran the wire from the basement box to the garage subpanel. I’m hoping to at least get lights and outlets done this weekend.

I paid a guy to swap out two light fixtures for me, today..

oldfarmer50

breld said:

Anyone want to share their experiences and/or opinions on “Japanese import” versus “muscle car” fun cars? I know several of you own or have owned one or the other (or both).

The Integra Type S is due in within a couple months but I really enjoyed the recent test drive of the Mustang GT. Totally different characters but both kinda serve the same purpose for me.

As a teenager, I had pictures of Mustang GTs on my wall and my brother bought me a Mustang history book for my birthday one year, so that was my obsession early on. But then I chose to get a 1990 Civic Si and never looked back as I progressed to a Prelude, TSX, the Civic Type R, etc.

The only sporty Japanese car I’ve owned was the Eclipse. I loved that car. It was anemic by today’s standards and only handled moderately well but it felt faster than it was and the smoothness of the motor made it enjoyable.

For raw power though, the Mustang can’t be beat. There’s something very visceral about that V8. Just practice before you turn the TC off or you’ll end up in a YT video.

qbrozen

jmonroe1 said:

I don’t want to insult you but make sure the panel in the stand alone garage is a true “subpanel” where the ground and neutral bus bars ARE NOT tied together electrically. This typically means you need a 4 conductor cable (black, red, white and bare or green insulated ground wire) running between the main house panel and the stand alone garage subpanel.

It’s not rocket surgery but you CANNOT connect the neutral and ground wire to the same point electrically in a “subpanel” like you do in the main panel in the house.

jmonroe

I ran 6/3 underground wire, so I got that covered. I was not aware the neutral and ground had to stay separate, so thanks for that tip. It is a main-lug only load center. I ran 12/3 to one of my outlets in anticipation of a 240v device (compressor or heater or both), but it is looking like I won't even use that. At least I'm future proofed.

corvette

@breld - I'm late to the party here. I really liked the Mustang GT I had, but the six speed automatic sometimes shifted harshly (common problem with that model year, and the manuals from that model year also received complaints about the shifter being notchy or something). The thing that killed it for me was that I couldn't drive it more than a couple of hours without my left knee cramping up. I've never had an issue like that before, so I chalk it up to the seating position. I got the G37 a few months later, and it was far more comfortable and, although slower on paper, didn't feel slower, due to the engine and transmission's willingness to rev.