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Yeah, that appears to be the case. The W201 is a pretty maligned model, probably because it is really showing its age, and many enthusiasts hate the 4 cyl models. I'd think a 2.6 would be OK, although I have a notion that transmissions on these things let go now and then.
I think on more modern C vs E class, prices are a little better. Especially on late models, where so many E class are leased, that 3 year old one flood the market and aren't much more expensive than a C.
once its cleared up after driving for 15 minutes or so, it seems to stay cleared up under acceleration or at idle. All except for when I rev it real quick (i've noticed it give a puff of smoke if I'm sitting still and watching the tailpipe and i give it a good strong blip up to 3k or so).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
speak of it, and it shall happen. I went home during lunch and went out to get the mail, which we forgot to get last night. Sure enough, there was an emissions notice for the pickup. I have to bring it in by January 17.
I'm hoping the exhaust work won't be too expensive. It came off from the muffler on back, so hopefully I won't be out for much more than the cost of a muffler and tailpipe, and possibly the pipe that runs between the catalytic converter and the muffler. Maybe a few hundred bucks at the most?
which truck is this again? i get mixed up sometimes. I'm thinking Dodge compact, right?
depends on what they CAN do. If a generic muffler will fit, great. If maybe they can cut and use standard pieces of pipe rather than direct fit stuff, also good. So it could be anywhere from $200-$450, I'd say.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I think you're right in line with the muffler costs. I'm hoping that when I go to put plates on the '92 Subaru I inherited from my FIL, I won't need an emissions test.
I need to replace at least the muffler/tailpipe assembly on it, but I'm afraid that the whole exhaust system from the cat converter back will need to be done. The former is a couple of hundred bucks, the latter is about 2 or 3 times that.
I've found an independant shop that specializes in Subarus here in Denver and they've told me that to fix up the little problems shouldn't be more than $400-600.
Also, they offer a 150+ point inspection of the car (stem to stern) for $85 ... any thoughts on whether this seems like good money to spend?
My plan is to take care of the major issues that I know about (exhaust system and drivers door lock) and gift the car to my son next June as a graduation present.
There isn't anything really special or exotic about its exhaust system, so I'm hoping it'll be pretty cheap to fix. I'm out of the loop with exhaust prices though. The last time I needed any substantial work done was back in 1993, when I put a new dual exhaust on my '68 Dart. I think that was about $330 for a complete system from the exhaust manifolds back.
I did price exhaust systems a couple years ago, when my '79 New Yorker's came off right behind the converter. The muffler shop said that a new single exhaust would be about $450, and I think for dual it would've been about $700-800. But luckily it qualified for historic plates about 2 months before it had to go in for the emissions test, so I never got it fixed.
This place bends their own pipes and such, too, so that might help keep costs down a bit, I guess.
Check with a dealer. Crazy as it sounds, I was able to buy a factory stainless muffler and tailpipe cheaper than what the muffler shop wanted for "aluminized". Took about 30 minutes to unbolt from the cat and hang the new one.
unless its a V6 model. But silverado is specifically higher end back in those days, right?
Back then the Silverado was a trim package, kind of like a Brougham package on an Oldsmobile or Pontiac, or a Limited package on a Buick. It got you some extra trim on the outside and a nicer interior, although somehow mine ended up with cloth inserts on the door panels, but a vinyl seat. I think they had a mid-level trim package called Scottsdale or Cheyenne, too. I don't think the Silverado package got you a bigger engine specifically, but mine has a 305-4bbl, whereas I think a 262 (4.3) 4-bbl V-6 was standard.
It's still pretty wussy though...165 hp, and 245 ft-lb of torque. I dunno if a dual exhaust might do more harm than good! :surprise:
yup. 4.3 was the base engine. ('85 was the first year for that, according to wikipedia)
it won't help the vehicle ... but it might sound cool.
Wikipedia doesn't tell me when they started using TBI. I know my pop's '87 K5 blazer with the 350 had it, and jet made a plug-in chip for that engine. My dad was quite happy with that and a 3" dual exhaust upgrade.
edit: oh, i found it. Under the K5 writeup, they say TBI was intro'd in '86.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I had thought about trying to convert my Silverado from the 4-bbl to TBI, but I'm guessing it would be too cost-prohibitive, and probably wouldn't reap that much of a benefit. I forget what the 305 TBI in trucks put out, but when the Caprice finally went to it, hp went to 170, whereas the 4-bbl had 165.
When the 4.3 came out for 1985, the 4-bbl was used in trucks and it put out 147 hp, but in the cars that used it (Caprice, Monte Carlo, Parisienne) it only put out 130. I think it jumped a bit for 1986 though. And my uncle had a '94 GMC pickup with the 4.3; by that time it was up to 160 hp IIRC. I think his '97 Silverado has something like 190-200 hp.
the 4.3 was a pretty good engine at the time. (i just learned not to trust the trannys in the small trucks)
Anyway, it did get up to like 200 hp in the early-to-mid 90s. I can't remember exactly when.
As far as swapping out for TBI, I certainly wouldn't do it. I wonder what a plain old bigger carb would do for you. I know they've got those aftermarket injected carbs, but I believe they are extremely expensive.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I had thought about trying to convert my Silverado from the 4-bbl to TBI, but I'm guessing it would be too cost-prohibitive, and probably wouldn't reap that much of a benefit. I forget what the 305 TBI in trucks put out, but when the Caprice finally went to it, hp went to 170, whereas the 4-bbl had 165.
Nah, if you are going to do something cool, you want stand alone fuel injection. If you google do it yourself fuel injection you can find kits and the like. It requires a lot of tuning though to create the appropriate fuel maps. And you are right, its definitely not cost effective.
In '92, the 4.3 with CPI put out 200HP. We had a '92 GMC Jimmy 2 door with that engine, and it was down right scary how that thing would accelerate. Never did find out just how fast it was. Chickened out when it flew past 100MPH before hitting 4th gear on the auto. Too tall, too short, too skinny for that kind of performance.
they gave me a bit of a hard time, but ultimately passed her.
i told her that if she passed, I'd celebrate by taking her to the car wash. Since I got through real quick and early this morning, i had plenty of time before work. The antenna broke off in the wash. hahahaha. i was too happy to care.
So now that she's got 2 years of hard labor ahead of her, I may have to turn her into a minor project. She really needs bucket seats (most uncomfortable vehicle for a 6'5" person) and a replacement stereo might be in order (along with that new antenna).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
oh, they were just making stuff up. When it failed before, they gave me some paperwork that basically read, "if you want to file for exemption, a certified mechanic must fill this out, provide all receipts, etc, etc." Well, this woman comes back to me and asks, "who did the work?" I explained that I did. So she asked for receipts. Well, I didn't bring any. So then she says I was supposed to and she's going to send me away without an inspection. I was being as sweet as I could, so I just explained I must have misunderstood because I thought I only had to do that if I wanted to file for exemption, which I didn't want to do just yet.
so then she asks the other guy standing there if she should send me away and asks him if he sees any smoke. Thankfully, he was in a better mood than her and said it looked good to him and she should go ahead and inspect it. So she scribbles on the sheet that I did no repairs (yeah, right) and puts it through the paces. At the end, she said she suspects it has an exhaust leak (again, yeah, right. i put on a whole new exhaust), but she'll pass it anyway. I didn't care about her attitude at that point, I still would have kissed her for putting a valid sticker in the windshield.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Congrats on the passing! I was just reading up on the emissions test for Maryland, and they give you a waiver if you spend at least $450 on emissions-related work and the car still doesn't pass. I had always thought you had to do that work after the actual test, but then I found out you can have it done within 30 days of the test.
So heck, I guess I could get my exhaust system done, and if the thing still fails, that might be enough to get it exempted.
Only thing I'm worried about now though, is that they also test the pressure of the fuel cap. I have dual tanks, both of which failed last year. I didn't want to sink the money into getting them both replaced, so I only had the mechanic do the left side. He disconnected the right side and sealed up the filler door so that nobody would ever accidentally fill it. Guess I'm going to have to un-seal it, so they can get in there to test the cap. :mad: I think he just screwed it shut somehow, but I'm not sure.
a new gas gap is like $20. They don't test the tank, just the cap. They actually pull the cap off and attach it to a machine. So that test is the least of your worries.
My state doesn't seem very forthcoming with information on that exemption process. I couldn't find the total money anywhere nor could I find how long they would exempt you for. My father seemed to think you get one year, and that's it. If you still don't pass, then its all over.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
a new gas gap is like $20. They don't test the tank, just the cap.
Yeah, I was worried about that at first, until I read it the correct way. I was thinking that they actually tested the tank as well! But I might just be thinking of how they'll sometimes test for the fuel filler opening to make sure it hasn't been routed out to accept a regular gasoline nozzle (if those are even still around?)
A new gas tank is something like $800 installed. In contrast, the late fee is $15 every 4 weeks, and I still have about 3 years to go before I can get historic plates, which will exempt it from the emissions test. I had actually thought about the idea, if it failed because of the tank, of just trying to get away with paying late fees for 3 years! That would come out to $195 per year, or $585 for the three years. Still cheaper than an $800 gas tank.
I doubt if they'd let me get away with it for that long, though!
In Maryland, when you get the exemption, I think it's just until the next emissions test, which here is every two years.
My parents called me yesterday panicking cause their 77 MB 300D died. Seems like their engine seized up.
My mom said she was driving and it suddenly stalled and died on her, and when my dad came to help her they could not get it to turn over.
Turns out when they checked the oil it had none. I don't think they checked it for 6 months since they picked it up. Ok, maybe they checked it the day they bought it :sick: . The engine oil pressure gauge though was working fine, but I don't think oil pressure measurement is the same as oil quantity, is it?
Anyways they're asking me what they should do, since the rest of the car is mint. I told them sell it for parts for $500, or find a rusty beater diesel and do an engine swap.
I have no doubt mercedes will sell you a new/rebuilt engine for that vehicle, MB has parts for EVERYTHING, just be ready to take out a mortgage to pay for it.
IS that '68 Toyota Crown wagon, anyway? Looks to me like it might be almost as big as a Dart/Valiant wagon, although maybe a bit narrower. It's kinda hard to tell, though. In some of the pics it looks fairly big, but in that lower pic with the 300ZX in front of it, it makes it look smaller.
That wagon looks kind of JDM to me, I have to say I've never seen anything like it in person. I wonder if it was a personal import from somewhere? If not, they must have sold just a few of them here.
Sad about that 300D....you've always got to keep an eye on the oil in a diesel! A good engine swap should be doable for a few grand, a rebuild will cost a few times more...
Yeah I made some phonecalls, and spoke with the shop that maintained the 300D since new. They said a proper engine rebuild on that car would run about $5000, as they would need to replace a lot of things (crankshaft alone is $1800).
So I'm looking thru ads for some rusrty diesels with decent motors. I figure a swap with the cost of a donor car will run about $2000.
I think the only reason they would consider saving it cause the car is in top notch shape. They got used to driving new cars all the time without looking underneath the hood. We'll see what they want to do.
Odd that this happend at the same time as what happend to me. I had a customer come in today that used to have an old Mercedes S-class diesel. It threw a Rod about 6 months ago when it got up to 289,xxx miles or so.
He ended up doing the same research you did and figured a swap would run him between 2,000 and 3,000 dollars depending on the level of DIY he wanted to get into.
That's kind of risky business, since most clapped out Mercedes I've seen also have clapped out motors. Unless the donor vehicle was killed off in a collision and had a rebuilt motor in it, putting in a used, high mileage diesel engine doesn't make much sense. These motors are generally pretty dead at 250--275K anyway (as you now know).
If I were the folks, I'd just junk it and shop for a very clean 300 turbo sedan...it might seem more expensive initially but probably cheaper after 2-3 years of use.
Or I'd spring for the rebuilt motor in their car. Lat thing I'd do personally is plug in some old motor with unknown history.
It's a big gamble, as shifty mentions. If a car has been allowed to rust out, what else has been neglected? But the rebuild is so pricey, that many will take that gamble.
If anything, you need to have a talk with the parents about caring for an older car ...stuff like that is why I wouldn't want my mom to get an old MB.
What the heck is this?? Is it two Corvairs or one wrecked one and a pile of parts? The one that looks like a car looks to be long gone
More details needed on this Eclipse Does it need a water pump or a head gasket or something in between and what damage has the engine taken? Probably not worth 1750 but could be OK if the work is on the low end
How do you value a car like this? These are always attention getters but I have no idea how to value one especially in light of the positives and negatives. The cheapo rims and tires take away from it. Is a Jaguar rear a normal thing to do?
The old Benz looks like an old 220. Might be worth the money except being RHD is the kiss of death value-wise. Send 'er back to England maybe or better yet Japan. Not worth the cost of restoration but there aren't too many of these left anymore. Can't really see much of the car. Might be a rust bucket underneath. These are rather pedestrian cars and very dull but could be used to put a nice 220A or 220b cabriolet back on the road---the latter open cars actually being worth some serious dollars.
65 Ford Galaxie---egad, that bondo looks frightening.
'30 Ford -- yes, Jaguar rear ends are sometimes used in rods--unlike 99% of the rest of a jaguar, the differential is known for durability (well, certain differentials...).
Yeah, send the 220 to England...they'd like it, it's kind of like a more durable British car anyway, with its old timey styling. Not enough upside for it in NA at that price, RHD or not. Strangely enough, parts are obtainable for these.
That Bel Air is a complete resto, but it is numbers matching with a V8. How much would that pull at BJ in pebble beach condition? It's got to be 6 figures, right? It's weird how that car could be purchased in 1971 and sit ever since. You'd think that you'd start to do something about it in the last 30 years. At least the seller probably paid about a grand for it then.
With the S-ERs, either could be decent. The black has rust but looks cleaner than the red. If it runs well, how much less that $550 do you want it for?
With the 240, how about he makes everyone's life easier and wait till he gets the title in two weeks?
Car isn't really worth restoring, dollar-wise...might bring $75,000 in spectacular shape at a top venue auction (maybe you were thinking of F.I. cars for 6 figures?) but you'd never get it to #1 for a mere $75,000 bucks.
so the car is basically worthless except for parts.
OR---you could do a down and dirty resto with lots of bondo and putty and undercoating and cheapo repo upholstery, etc., and maybe pawn it off on someone for $35K.
A sink hole of a car really. Maybe some old guy with lots of skills could come out all right on this, but it's a long haul for that car.
That scirocco is only about 40 minutes from me. Too bad about the engine, though. I don't think it would be a very interesting car with the base engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Comments
I think on more modern C vs E class, prices are a little better. Especially on late models, where so many E class are leased, that 3 year old one flood the market and aren't much more expensive than a C.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm hoping the exhaust work won't be too expensive. It came off from the muffler on back, so hopefully I won't be out for much more than the cost of a muffler and tailpipe, and possibly the pipe that runs between the catalytic converter and the muffler. Maybe a few hundred bucks at the most?
depends on what they CAN do. If a generic muffler will fit, great. If maybe they can cut and use standard pieces of pipe rather than direct fit stuff, also good. So it could be anywhere from $200-$450, I'd say.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I need to replace at least the muffler/tailpipe assembly on it, but I'm afraid that the whole exhaust system from the cat converter back will need to be done. The former is a couple of hundred bucks, the latter is about 2 or 3 times that.
I've found an independant shop that specializes in Subarus here in Denver and they've told me that to fix up the little problems shouldn't be more than $400-600.
Also, they offer a 150+ point inspection of the car (stem to stern) for $85 ... any thoughts on whether this seems like good money to spend?
My plan is to take care of the major issues that I know about (exhaust system and drivers door lock) and gift the car to my son next June as a graduation present.
Nah, '85 Silverado. This thing (pic taken right after it got rear-ended by a 2000 I30 which didn't fare quite as well)
There isn't anything really special or exotic about its exhaust system, so I'm hoping it'll be pretty cheap to fix. I'm out of the loop with exhaust prices though. The last time I needed any substantial work done was back in 1993, when I put a new dual exhaust on my '68 Dart. I think that was about $330 for a complete system from the exhaust manifolds back.
I did price exhaust systems a couple years ago, when my '79 New Yorker's came off right behind the converter. The muffler shop said that a new single exhaust would be about $450, and I think for dual it would've been about $700-800. But luckily it qualified for historic plates about 2 months before it had to go in for the emissions test, so I never got it fixed.
This place bends their own pipes and such, too, so that might help keep costs down a bit, I guess.
unless its a V6 model. But silverado is specifically higher end back in those days, right?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Back then the Silverado was a trim package, kind of like a Brougham package on an Oldsmobile or Pontiac, or a Limited package on a Buick. It got you some extra trim on the outside and a nicer interior, although somehow mine ended up with cloth inserts on the door panels, but a vinyl seat. I think they had a mid-level trim package called Scottsdale or Cheyenne, too. I don't think the Silverado package got you a bigger engine specifically, but mine has a 305-4bbl, whereas I think a 262 (4.3) 4-bbl V-6 was standard.
It's still pretty wussy though...165 hp, and 245 ft-lb of torque. I dunno if a dual exhaust might do more harm than good! :surprise:
Seriously, what would a realistic price be on something like this? Maybe 1/3 to 1/5 the $30K asking price, presuming it's all in good shape?
it won't help the vehicle ... but it might sound cool.
Wikipedia doesn't tell me when they started using TBI. I know my pop's '87 K5 blazer with the 350 had it, and jet made a plug-in chip for that engine. My dad was quite happy with that and a 3" dual exhaust upgrade.
edit: oh, i found it. Under the K5 writeup, they say TBI was intro'd in '86.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When the 4.3 came out for 1985, the 4-bbl was used in trucks and it put out 147 hp, but in the cars that used it (Caprice, Monte Carlo, Parisienne) it only put out 130. I think it jumped a bit for 1986 though. And my uncle had a '94 GMC pickup with the 4.3; by that time it was up to 160 hp IIRC. I think his '97 Silverado has something like 190-200 hp.
Anyway, it did get up to like 200 hp in the early-to-mid 90s. I can't remember exactly when.
As far as swapping out for TBI, I certainly wouldn't do it. I wonder what a plain old bigger carb would do for you. I know they've got those aftermarket injected carbs, but I believe they are extremely expensive.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Nah, if you are going to do something cool, you want stand alone fuel injection. If you google do it yourself fuel injection you can find kits and the like. It requires a lot of tuning though to create the appropriate fuel maps. And you are right, its definitely not cost effective.
Sure was fun, though ...
a 'family' problem? i hope you don't get blamed.
Such is life.
they gave me a bit of a hard time, but ultimately passed her.
i told her that if she passed, I'd celebrate by taking her to the car wash. Since I got through real quick and early this morning, i had plenty of time before work. The antenna broke off in the wash. hahahaha. i was too happy to care.
So now that she's got 2 years of hard labor ahead of her, I may have to turn her into a minor project. She really needs bucket seats (most uncomfortable vehicle for a 6'5" person) and a replacement stereo might be in order (along with that new antenna).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I kind of figured she would pass. What did they give you a hard time for?
so then she asks the other guy standing there if she should send me away and asks him if he sees any smoke. Thankfully, he was in a better mood than her and said it looked good to him and she should go ahead and inspect it. So she scribbles on the sheet that I did no repairs (yeah, right) and puts it through the paces. At the end, she said she suspects it has an exhaust leak (again, yeah, right. i put on a whole new exhaust), but she'll pass it anyway. I didn't care about her attitude at that point, I still would have kissed her for putting a valid sticker in the windshield.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So heck, I guess I could get my exhaust system done, and if the thing still fails, that might be enough to get it exempted.
Only thing I'm worried about now though, is that they also test the pressure of the fuel cap. I have dual tanks, both of which failed last year. I didn't want to sink the money into getting them both replaced, so I only had the mechanic do the left side. He disconnected the right side and sealed up the filler door so that nobody would ever accidentally fill it. Guess I'm going to have to un-seal it, so they can get in there to test the cap. :mad: I think he just screwed it shut somehow, but I'm not sure.
a new gas gap is like $20. They don't test the tank, just the cap. They actually pull the cap off and attach it to a machine. So that test is the least of your worries.
My state doesn't seem very forthcoming with information on that exemption process. I couldn't find the total money anywhere nor could I find how long they would exempt you for. My father seemed to think you get one year, and that's it. If you still don't pass, then its all over.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Yeah, I was worried about that at first, until I read it the correct way. I was thinking that they actually tested the tank as well! But I might just be thinking of how they'll sometimes test for the fuel filler opening to make sure it hasn't been routed out to accept a regular gasoline nozzle (if those are even still around?)
A new gas tank is something like $800 installed. In contrast, the late fee is $15 every 4 weeks, and I still have about 3 years to go before I can get historic plates, which will exempt it from the emissions test. I had actually thought about the idea, if it failed because of the tank, of just trying to get away with paying late fees for 3 years! That would come out to $195 per year, or $585 for the three years. Still cheaper than an $800 gas tank.
I doubt if they'd let me get away with it for that long, though!
In Maryland, when you get the exemption, I think it's just until the next emissions test, which here is every two years.
i remember seeing decent options on ebay when I was considering replacing my alfa seats, but now I can't seem to locate any.
I'm sure they won't be new for what I'd want to spend.
oh, and I'd prefer that they slide and tilt. Never know when my wife might drive and there is over a foot difference in our heights.
something like THESE might be good, but $125 shipping makes them too expensive.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
My mom said she was driving and it suddenly stalled and died on her, and when my dad came to help her they could not get it to turn over.
Turns out when they checked the oil it had none. I don't think they checked it for 6 months since they picked it up. Ok, maybe they checked it the day they bought it :sick: . The engine oil pressure gauge though was working fine, but I don't think oil pressure measurement is the same as oil quantity, is it?
Anyways they're asking me what they should do, since the rest of the car is mint. I told them sell it for parts for $500, or find a rusty beater diesel and do an engine swap.
What do you guys think? My mom's heartbroken.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Sad about that 300D....you've always got to keep an eye on the oil in a diesel! A good engine swap should be doable for a few grand, a rebuild will cost a few times more...
So I'm looking thru ads for some rusrty diesels with decent motors. I figure a swap with the cost of a donor car will run about $2000.
I think the only reason they would consider saving it cause the car is in top notch shape. They got used to driving new cars all the time without looking underneath the hood. We'll see what they want to do.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
It does look like a stripper model though, as far as Electras go...not too often you see 'em with vinyl seats.
He ended up doing the same research you did and figured a swap would run him between 2,000 and 3,000 dollars depending on the level of DIY he wanted to get into.
If I were the folks, I'd just junk it and shop for a very clean 300 turbo sedan...it might seem more expensive initially but probably cheaper after 2-3 years of use.
Or I'd spring for the rebuilt motor in their car. Lat thing I'd do personally is plug in some old motor with unknown history.
If anything, you need to have a talk with the parents about caring for an older car ...stuff like that is why I wouldn't want my mom to get an old MB.
Then I just might grab an old Hyundai Excel off our wholesale lot and make them drive it as a punishment. :P
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
If this legitimately has a rebuilt motor and tranny, this could be a good deal for someone who can do it themselves
The hit looks pretty bad. It's funny that the seller says he doesn't have the money to fix it, but is going to buy a new car instead. It's probably best off as a donor car.
I didn't think that an unmolested 89 5.0 notch existed
It looks like it's leaking something but this is a better starting point than most of the wrecks that I see
What the heck is this??
Is it two Corvairs or one wrecked one and a pile of parts? The one that looks like a car looks to be long gone
More details needed on this Eclipse
Does it need a water pump or a head gasket or something in between and what damage has the engine taken? Probably not worth 1750 but could be OK if the work is on the low end
I don't know much about old Benzes so what do you all think?
If you can figure out the internet you should be able to figure out the digital camera a little better
How do you value a car like this?
These are always attention getters but I have no idea how to value one especially in light of the positives and negatives. The cheapo rims and tires take away from it. Is a Jaguar rear a normal thing to do?
Who knows what work it needs but I've seen people try to get alot more the $350 for Accords that look a lot worse than this
It's purported to run and look good
Looks good from far but it's far from good up close??
The seller posted of good pic of it but that old bdywork is scary
Another one that can be done in a weekend yet he chooses to sell it in a million pieces
This has some nice pieces but even all together, it would be worth 7500 or 8 grand
Paying 10 thousand dollars for a Jetta with 150,000 miles is not on my list of things to do before I die
Unless the mileage has an extra 1 in front of it, this price is crazy and we usually don't get crazy diesel prices around here
Don't restore this one but a Caddy lover can get alot of enjoyment out of this after a Maaco paint job
65 Ford Galaxie---egad, that bondo looks frightening.
'30 Ford -- yes, Jaguar rear ends are sometimes used in rods--unlike 99% of the rest of a jaguar, the differential is known for durability (well, certain differentials...).
Caddy looks like a decent buy for a driver.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Old race car with out a pedigree, history and on a non original frame is not worth much.
Rusty Bel Air Convert worth 25,000??? USD
Busted Up 240sx with no title hmhh can you see hard sell?
Beyond cool Classic Mini Panel van but way overpriced. I don't car what their justification is. That much rust in those old minis is very hard to fix properly.
Old Sammies can be fun not sure that it is 750 dollars worth of fun
Ohhh unmolested SE-R sentra that is only 15 miles away... Not sure that it is cheap enough to make up for the rust though.
Another SE-R that is in better shape but 200 miles away grrrr
Ohh I like this Scirocco as well.
That Bel Air is a complete resto, but it is numbers matching with a V8. How much would that pull at BJ in pebble beach condition? It's got to be 6 figures, right? It's weird how that car could be purchased in 1971 and sit ever since. You'd think that you'd start to do something about it in the last 30 years. At least the seller probably paid about a grand for it then.
With the S-ERs, either could be decent. The black has rust but looks cleaner than the red. If it runs well, how much less that $550 do you want it for?
With the 240, how about he makes everyone's life easier and wait till he gets the title in two weeks?
Car isn't really worth restoring, dollar-wise...might bring $75,000 in spectacular shape at a top venue auction (maybe you were thinking of F.I. cars for 6 figures?) but you'd never get it to #1 for a mere $75,000 bucks.
so the car is basically worthless except for parts.
OR---you could do a down and dirty resto with lots of bondo and putty and undercoating and cheapo repo upholstery, etc., and maybe pawn it off on someone for $35K.
A sink hole of a car really. Maybe some old guy with lots of skills could come out all right on this, but it's a long haul for that car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You might get a good 20-30 miles out of it before it breaks down