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O.K., not a project, but can it really be worth this much?
Maybe.
Project, yes, but $4,000??
Could come in handy if we ever have a real winter again.
I'm sure he meant $195..0BO!
Another real project, don't know about the price.
C'mon!! You know ya want it!!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'52 pickup - if he's telling the complete truth, I actually think that's not bad. I've always liked the idea of a clean starting point for a truck-rod.
kaiser - $5k without the engine?? No thanks!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
One problem those they are not Series IIas...
Headlights are in the wrong place.
http://www.landrovercentre.com/history/history_land_rover.htm
Series I
Series II
Series IIa
I might just call this guy and get the VINs off both these cars see what year they really are.
If they are actually IIas then they have a Series II front fenders, headlights, grills and hood.
That would be kind of unusual. I have seen lots of Series IIIs and Series IIas with cross polination of parts but I have never seen a Series IIa with Series II parts.
Yeah, I always thought old Dodge pickups for the most part were pretty grubby looking. The old WW-II looking Power Wagons, which I think they made up until the early 60's, were cool though, and that Swept Wing style from '57-59 that had the Dodge tailfins grafted on was cool.
I don't think Dodge really came into its own with regards to pickups until the 1994 Ram.
How do old panel trucks tend to fare, price-wise? There's a 1959 or so Ford panel truck for sale on my street. Looks good at a quick glance. I think they want $5900 for it. It looks like this style. And there's a late 50's Dodge panel truck that lives in someone's back yard near my Dad's place. Looks like this style
I always thought panel trucks were kinda cool. I guess they pretty much got phased out once the cabover vans hit the market? I think Chevy kept theirs around through most of the 60's though. Probably pretty easy to do since it was basically a 2-door Suburban with no rear side windows.
BTW, when DID they start making 4-door Suburbans? I'll occasionally see 3-door Suburbans from the 60's (2 doors on the passenger side, only one on the driver's) but don't recall seeing any 4-door models.
For a brief time, Philadelphia had a different registration sticker - a rather large yellow, somewhat unattractive, sticker that went in the rear window. The sticker was meant to foil people who would steal the little license plate-mounter sticker from the corner - either by carefully peeling it or crudely cutting it off with tin shears. This rear window sticker would often rapidly fade and fall off requiring the frequent use of cellophane tape and adding to the ugliness. In 2004, Philadelphia reverted back to the use of the usual license-plate registration sticker. I believe there were concerns about suburban cops using the yellow stickers as a form of "geographic profiling" to target city drivers.
I still have the old 2003 sticker in the rear window of my 1989 Cadillac Brougham as a relic of this failed experiment.
Someone around here had a 70 SS clone small block that he wanted 19.5 for. It was nicely done but I thought that was steep because the engine was just an everyage small block with bolt-ons and it had 15 X 7 Vette rally wheels.
I don't know how much he got. The guy with the 68 should put it on ebay with a reserve of 20 or in the high teens and see if he can get a bidding war.
That's the type of car that could go for anywhere from 15 to 25 based on the timing.
The Camaro guy is stoned. He should take the initiative to part it out. Even if somebody wanted the parts, no one is going to do him the favor of dragging it away and paying him 2 grand to do it.
I just found it funny that seller took compression as a reason to ask big money.
But I always tell people that after 300,000 miles or so you have to have the car inspected for structural issues. I personally would replace the steering arms and control arms on a car that old, or at least have them removed and magnafluxed. Some cars, like old Saabs, are notorious for upper A-arm failure after a lot of miles and some cars are notorious for busting old tie rod ends....
COMPRESSION -- you are absolutely right, you can have lots of blow-by and still have good compression. Just about any old Volvo 140 or 240 with lots of miles on it will exhibit this symptom, as do older American engines (and after all, Volvos are just closet Buicks).
Someone blew the clutch out in our 1959 Sereis II.
I pulled in this morning and it was parked under the service bay not on its trailer where I left it last night after the auto show. Someone pulled it off the trailer and parked it out front sometime this morning. They managed in less then 100 feet to completly smoke the clutch out of it. I can't get it to move at all now and I had someone coming to look at it this afternoon too.
I have a pretty good idea who did it as well.... :mad:
My fintail has a little blow-by, or what I call blow-by...at sustained high speeds a small amount of oil will come out of the dipstick hole (which is a strange setup...weird rubber filter at the base of the top of the dipstick handle, as if it was made to do so) and will accumulate below this area. I just wipe it off if it does that.
Make them stick their mouth over the tailpipe of the rover and rev it up till they die from consuming too many unburnt hydrocarbons.
worth more as parts than as a car
not a real Honda
the shark
oh, is that all it needs?
people seem to love that aqua color on '50s cars but I hate it
you could do worse for $1900
sorry, but you can't sell an S12 for S13 money
I like some of those aqua colors, as long as they have a bit more green in them, or are a touch darker. I don't really care for it on that Ford wagon, but on something like a '55 T-bird it wouldn't be bad. Still a bit too light for my tastes, though.
I kinda like those Tiburons. Wait till you see the red one!
Lets call it a family problem if you catch my drift.
$4k for a '95 del sol??? uhhhh... no thanks.
i gotta wonder what's wrong with the toyo frame. Ya can't just drop a bomb like that in an ad without giving details, fer cryin out loud.
I'm with you on aqua cars, by the way. just not for me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
And yeah, that 190 doesn't look half bad for the money.
he doesn't even say if it runs.
Even if that car were showroom condition, I'd have to think a while about dropping $500 on it. But I guess there's a buyer out there somewhere for everything, right?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
At least he's honest
Cute car, high price
Dreamer
Kinda high
And about that Colt...yeah I would have hesitation paying $500 for a mint one, too.
"This is good, cheap, reliable transportation." Hahhaha, that has to be the funniest statement ever when taken in context: 1986 Ford Bronco II?! Come on... the Bronco II was one of the worst lemons in recent history! Maybe that did not apply to all of them.... :sick: But, if it is, by some miracle, running well, a good tune up, once over, and repaired 4wd (if it is not a bum transfer case!) could turn a $2000 gross turnaround, so maybe $500 profit if you got in as deep as you'd ever want.
It can be tricky finding a decent vehicle up here with a price to match. The only vehicle I have purchased in Alaska was my C20.... and I had to cut down a forest to extract it.
The last 2 used vehicles I bought were both projects. One a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi was saved from the junkyard for $650. Fixed its issues (badly bent rear suspension from an accident, brakes, and replaced the airbags) had about $980 into it total including its purchase. Sold it for $2500. Its a decent car, only had 56k on it, some body damage but it was not as bad as some I've seen. Clean title saved it.
The other one was our 97 F-250 powerstroke. Finally fixed its starting issue.....glow plugs, $90 and its reliable again. Its a good running truck that doesn't leak, a real bargain for the $3k we have into it. Down side is its reconstruct title.
Both of them were bought from the junkyard more or less, lol. They have a car there now I've been looking at, but I think I'll end up passing on it. Its a 1998 (I think) Camry, cloth, sunroof, busted rack & pinion, but does drive, needs a front fender too. Has a reconstruct title and about 150k on it. They are asking $800 for it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I would consider a truck that old with that kind of frame problem junkyard fodder. The only thing worth possibly saving would be the 22re. But I wouldn't know what to do with it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You ever get that thing straightened out with a new head? I got behind on my reading, and hate to miss the end of a story!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
well, i was holding off on finishing the story until it was done ... but here goes.
SO... when last we left our brave little truck, it was sick with smoke and waiting on an ebay head. The head arrived last Monday when I was off from work. Seemed to be in ok shape. So I set about to installing it. Got it all done, cinched down, timing set, etc. Started her up and ... "ratatatatatatatatat"
hmmmm... those valves aren't sounding too good. Monday was done, so during the course of the work week, I spent a little time out there each evening starting the dissasembly process again and checking things along the way. Timing was still dead nuts on, etc. Well, to keep the long story as short as possible, it basically turned out that all of the hydraulic lifters in this "new" head were seized shut. I can't say for sure why. could be I should have disassembled the head when it arrived and primed them; could be the ebay'er did not replace them like he said he did; whatever. Luckily I still had my old head on hand, so I pulled the lifters from that and installed. Reassembled and its much quieter now.
Did it fix the problem? Welll..... that remains to be seen. I did have a tremendous amount of smoke shortly after startup, but I'm told this may go away after breaking it in. So I ran it for maybe an hour and it did mostly clear up. It still spits out a puff if I rev it real hard. But if I ease on the gas and ease off, it seems to be good. And if I shut down and restart a half hour or more later, I've got smoke again.
SO, my plan is to drive it on my commute tomorrow (about 10 miles backroads and 25 miles on the highway) and take it straight to the inspection station nearest my office early in the AM before work.
I did use it this past weekend to aid in my leaf cleanup and I LOVED having it. What used to take me a month of weekends took me about 6 hours. SO, I figure worst case scenario, if its not legal on the roads, I will keep it just for the yard. It would be nice, however, to be able to drive it to the dump, too, though, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That is where I learned that when you sit idling and start/stop for 1/2 hour+ the exhaust gets dirty. You always want to show up hot and pull right in, with minimal idling. I have had cars fail, and then pass the next day without doing anything to them. Only difference is pulling right up to the retest station.
One thing that might be beneficial is to pay the few $$ and use a private garage (assuming they still have themn!) They tend to have a way to "make" you pass!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I've had to pay a few times in my life, that's for sure. But no longer. There are no such thing as private inspection stations in NJ anymore.
Do you think they'd be suspicious if, as I sat there waiting, the truck was revving at 3k rpms the whole time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I remember ages ago, when I had my '79 Newport, I was worried about it passing the emissions test because it had over 230,000 miles on it, and, well, I paid a whopping $250 for it! On the way to the test I took the scenic route and kept it in second gear most of the time to keep it a bit more revved up.
Oh crap, that reminds me...my pickup is due to go in, sometime around January. Guess I'd better get off my duff and put the exhaust system back on!
On exhaust testing, I did a volunteer test with a new '79 Cutlass Salon (that's back when they were rwd) that the cat had been removed from. Up to 2000rpm all passed. above that all the meters pegged. The tester kindly suggested I have the carb checked out.
If a car didn't smoke right after some head work I would be worried.
any thoughts on how long this should last for? Should I even bother with inspection tomorrow? Or wait it out and run her some more. I would say she's been run a total of maybe 2 hours since I finished the work and it will be another 40 minutes or so tomorrow morning to get to the station.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S