By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Should be useful to someone somewhere
Rebadging is the lamest thing in the world This car irks me...the wheels don't seem to fit right, the trunk and hood look misaligned - not a good sign, miles aren't low and neither is the price, looks like a base model, sunroof open in the rain...
The $650 Merc D... gas prices are moving up. I'm surprised that they aren't billing it as a biodiesel special and asking $4k.
The "AMG" looks like it has been torqued... run, run quickly, far, far away. :sick:
james
You could easily buy a diesel right now and get two "benefits": degraded performance and higher operating costs.
Case in point...by ditching my 300D and buying a Scion for commuting purposes, at current fuel prices I'm saving $900 a year. And at $100 a month to keep the old girl in repair and maintenance, vs. $250 month to finance a car with a good warranty, you can see how it all makes sense. (for me).
james
Light turns green and I left him in the dust with all that 2.0 liter, normally aspirated, Focus power
(Wasn't street raising or anything. Just was getting away from a you-know-what and I had a turn not to far up ahead anyway.)
Heck, make it $50
Seems high
Ditto
Drive it 'till it drops
Depreciation city
4-Door hardtop '57
No such thing as 'minor rust'
There's a chrome-bumper E30 coupe sitting a quarter-mile up the road for $600. I'd probably buy it for kicks if I didn't already have two platefuls of other automotive needs to take care of.
This brings up a question that arises in my mind from time to time, that I've never asked, because I come up with some lame, time worn answers, such as, "supply and demand", that temporarily satisfy me, but not fully. So my question is, just why IS the differential so great? Why isn't it a more reasonable 1.5:1, or 2:1, say? I can understand 4:1 if we're comparing the maintenance costs of a Rolls versus a Chevy, but a BMW or Mercedes, while more upscale than a Chevy, to be sure, doesn't generally cost 4X as much. Not a 3 or 5 Series, anyway. Is it that the German brands use the cost of parts to subsidize the selling price of their new cars, maybe? Or, are they making huge profits on parts?
And why should the differential be 4:1 for labor, rather than a more reasonable differential?
Thanks in advance.
"Modern Classic At Its Best"
I priced out tires, a 4 wheel alignment, 02 sensor, and having the airbag light turned off. Should be able to do it all for under $1000, would be nearly impossible to find a good running beater for under $1000 I think.
Hubby was very concerned about how the car drove home when we picked it back up 6 weeks ago, said he wasn't sure if it was the ice on the roads or something was wrong with the car.
The roads cleared and he decided to take it for a spin yesterday. Mind you this car has been sitting in freezing temps for 6 weeks covered in snow. I unlocked it, slid into the driver's seat, hit the key and she fired right up, acted like I had just shut her off. That's impressive me thinks!
He took it about 2 miles out and 2 miles back at 65 mph, said it has a hard left pull and needs an alignment BAD, but other than that ran and drove great.
So, am I nuts for keeping this crazy car and pouring more money into it? BTW, it was very popular with the "can I make payments??" crowd at $1500. :sick:
RE: Repair ratios on BMW vs. Monte Carlo.
I see this happening for 3 reasons:
1. BMW repair shops charge more per hour than a local shop/gas station.
2. BMWs are harder to fix, i.e., to do each operation.
3. BMW parts are (usually) way more expensive. Go price a power steering hose (the pressure side) for that 3 series and be prepared to say "excuse me....what did you say?"
Case in point...you got a bad u-joint, right? Okay, go price a U-Joint for a RWD GM car at Kragen. Now price a J-joint for a BMW...oh wait, they don't sell u-joints...they only sell entire driveshafts (not rebuildable).
Can you shop around for parts and save money? Sure...but then are you going to bring your own parts to the BMW specialty shop----they won't like that.
Sooooo....unless you are a DIY-er, it's about 4:1 repair ratio.
65 Mustang Coupe---he might get $13,000, if it's as nice as it looks. They're hot right now, because so many of them are rats. But of course he has the wrong engine, so I dunno. He might get it still.
LOL, so what should I do with it? I'm not interested in trying yet again to sell it, seems like everyone wants to "make payments". I kinda like the car, it runs well, always starts, doesn't have any major issues and needs less than $1000 dropped into it including tires. Its a good beater to have around I think.......errr, thought, lol.
Since I own the car for nothing, I figure I can't get hurt too badly (famous last words right?). I'm going to start with an alignment, $104, and if something BAD is found that's it, next stop will be the junkyard where I can get around $600 for it. So won't be out anything and will have made $496 over and above anything I have into the car. So, am I still nuts? LOL
i am sure shifty is giving you some good info, though.
I know this is a classic car forum, but if you don't mind a quick, temporary detour to new cars, are there any <$40,000 '07 cars that you might consider "your kind of car", besides the Scion xA, or are they all too large, complex, heavy, and driver isolating in character?
As an example, when I was about 16 and working in a gas station, one of our customers got drafted. He had about two weeks to sell his TR3. I don't remember what year it was but it looked and ran great!
He advertised it and got no takers. The day before he was to leave, in desperation, he lowered the price to 300.00.
I had neither the money or a place for it. A beautiful, rust free Southern California car too!
Decent looking tank
I don't know if these are good or crap...but it has to be one of the better remaining
And speaking of those 6er coupes, they are coming out of the woodwork around here
Here's one
And Another
Yet another
And another
One of these days you will post something I'll go buy.
That guy with that Olds thinks it's a "muscle car".
It's a nice car but it doesn't fit in that catagory.
I had a 320i---it was okay but every day I would tell it "you're no 2002".
Gee that "muscle car" needs to go to the gym!
But, if you can dump 1000 into it and have a reliable car for a year or two (not including general maint. costs), then its a heck of a deal to just keep it!
BTW, 01 Durango? Let's see, you must have 5+ cars between you and your husband! Maybe you should sell one of the others that is worth a bit more and just keep the old beaters....
We actually have 4 vehicles: 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD/6-spd DRW 4x4, 2001 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8/auto 4x4, 1997 Ford F-250 PSD/auto 4x4, and the 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi.
I'm sure you are now scratching your head wondering where the second 06 Ram 3500 went. I trade it in 2 weeks ago for the Durango. Was paying $820/month in payment and insurance for a truck that I wasn't driving much and never towed much with, not to mention it did seem stupid to own 3 diesel trucks. Decided it was rather silly so off it went.
The Durango has some miles on it (70k), but it needs nothing and runs great. Its a one owner car out of NJ. When I bought it the brakes were terrible, the dealer "fixed" them before I picked it up. The fix lasted about 24 hrs, took it to a brake shop and was told it needed a complete brake job. Looked at it myself and was stunned. Took it back to the dealer and after the GSM drove it and got his pants scared off, they agreed and did a complete brake job including a brake flush in it 4 days after I bought it.
That statement (and the pictures) make you question every other claim the sell had made. :confuse:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mazda-rx-7-GSL-SE-13b-GSL-12a-rotary-engine-rx7-r- x3-rx2_W0QQitemZ290098853137QQcategoryZ6327QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem-
james
That statement (and the pictures) make you question every other claim the sell had made.
WOW, that's the biggest small cut I've ever seen and it multiplied too! No wonder he has no bids, needs a lesson in honesty!
One thing I noticed is the offhand comment "you have to renew the plates". In California, you have to "non-op" the car every year or the back-due license fees accrue to the next owner. So if the bidder is in-state, he might get a $300-$600 surprise at DMV when he goes to register.
Racing Beat makes good stuff for the RX-7. Id' consider owning a super clean RX-7 that's been tricked out.
How about it needs new seats? :sick:
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
How much to fix this and put some proper wheels on it? It looks like it was pretty nice before the wreck... except for the wheels
Somebody that owns a body shop and has a little time could get a nice car out of this.
Could this be a decent driver If the miles are real, why not? Being a non-turbo car, how hard is it to work on?
This Chevelle has potential I'd be afraid to strip it, but all Chevelles and Camaros are insane around here. The front discs are good to have. If we assume that it is complete and has a servicable small block (eng not indicated), he could get this price or close to it.
If the Seville SLS did it for you when new, now is your chance to own one for under 3 grand Even the interior pics look decent. What should someone expect from a Northstar with 100k? It will go through some oil probably, right?
Very nice Nova Much nice work here but 25 grand is really stretching it for a non SS car. Maybe put it on Ebay with a reserve of 17.5?
Decent bones for a go-fast special? The similar Novas have gained some popularity for small block build ups, but you still never see these Skylarks done. If it's a V8 car, it could be an OK starting point. What does the hatchbook do to body integrity?
Final one. Tell me what this is worth It's handsome but I don't know a thing about the values of cars like this.
second try
91 Dodge Stealth -- price if fair enough, car's a pig and it has that legendary early 90s Chrysler quality
'64 Impala SS -- Hmmm...it's touch and go on this one...we have a somewhat incorrect '64 Impala SS with the small engine in a lousy color....but...it still has some value. You're gonna need frame straightening, front end work obviously, fender, hood, bumper, grille, headlights, radiator and a paint job. Against that you have a car that if it's a nice #3, ready to roll, is worth maybe $12,000 all day long....so, adding the purchase price to all that, my opinion is why bother? Let someone else do it and buy it from them.
Too bad. Such an ugly car in such a nice town!
The Stealth was made for Dodge by Mitsubishi. Not the paragon of quality, to be sure, but maybe better than Chrysler's in the '90s.
The Stealth would be a disaster to own I think.