Just checked the HMUSA sight again, build your own, selected the Sonata LX, powder white pearl (NO CHARGE, NADA, ZIP, FREEBEE), with premium package.
Actually, all paint colors on Sonata's and Azera's as available are (NO CHARGE, NADA, ZIP, FREEBEE).
One needs to know the base MSRP for a given model with different options and then determine if the 'dealer' added the $200.00 (for paint) as a little, should we say, 'dealer bonus'?
When the engine (cold) first starts and idles around 1,800 rpm has anyone noticed what appears to be an engine noise that goes away within 1.5 to 2 seconds, as if maybe the top end oil has drained down leaving the top end, not dry but not fully lubed?
Weird... Edmunds.com shows Powder White Pearl as a $200 option (code W1) on all Sonatas. hyundaiusa.com shows that color as being "limited availability" but no extra charge. Wonder where Edmunds.com got its information?
On the colder mornings, the start-up rpms are higher than on warmer mornings or a re-start. As you noticed also, I hear a top-end noise that quickly disappears. Kinda like my small-block chevy or my 400 CID Lincoln. I'm not concerned about it at this point.
CARSDIRECT has it as $185 option. Hyundai is starting to be like Kia, Kia always had an upcharge for the White Pearl paint. Anything to get that little extra $'s out of your pocket. But I have to admit that the White Pearl is worth the extra $'s. :mad:
The higher RPM on a cold start is normal, as it's the cold start algorithm in the computer doing its job. Some engines even have an additional "cold start injector" which enables cold starts in very cold weather. As to top-end noise, it's probably hydraulic lifter noise, not too unusual especially if the car has not been driven for a couple of days. Make sure that you're using an oil filter with the proper anti-drainback valve, otherwise this noise will occur each time you start the car after a down time period. The OEM Hyundai oil filters are fine, and recommended of course, as are a few aftermarket brands. There is substantial info available online on what filter is acceptable, and which have the best designs in anti-drainback valves. Some filters place the valves at the top-end of the filter (Hyundai OEM, Purolator, Mann (German brand), AC, etc.), but others place it on the base which can cause problems.
The specifics I mentioned were generalities with spin-on filters. However, the Azera uses an element or cannister oil filter, thus please disregard the reference. I guess my brain was AWOL when I wrote the response specific to the Azera.
To the best of my knowledge, Purolator either has, or soon will have, a direct replacement for OEM Hyundai with the O rings. This is their PureOne line of filters, which has excellent filter media. In the case of a cannister filter, the anti-drainback is part of the cover design generally. This varies from design to design however. Personally, I wish manufacturers would have kept spin-on filters, but the cannisters are more environmentally friendly.
Interesting . . . as more things change, the more the stay the same. A few of my old '50s vintage cars, both American and European, used cannister filters. Moving to a spin-on was a evolutionary improvement at that time!
And my '56 Morris Minor 1000 used a cartrige of toilet paper! Can't get much more enviromentally friendly, but I always felt like I was changing its diaper..........LOL A bit off subject, sorry, but I had to share that.
Off subject, perhaps, but it was a common add-on for many cars through at least the '70s I believe. It was the Frantz Oil Filter, and was directed marketed.
Wow, thanks to all of you for marvelous 'input'. :shades:
Yeah, I understand the 'cold start' (choke) RPM increase, the rattle was the concern. I wanted to know if it was just in my head and it wasn't. So don't call the guys in the white jackets just yet, I'm still sane, I think?
Any time metal to metal rattles it's not good. HMUSA put a new motor, aluminum vs. the steel/cast iron motor put in XG.
We're only at 690 miles so all of the filter stuff is factory and it only sits overnight, maybe 18hrs. None the less it appears that I will be changing over to synthetic at first oil change. In the meantime a can of STP will work just fine to help keep the upper end lubed before the cold start.
I noticed when I start the car when it's cold the engine races. so I wait till it gets down to a reasionable (1500 - to about 1200 rpm ) to put it in gear. It only takes a few seconds and still can't feel it go into gear.
Well, I am an proud owner of a powder white pearl Azera and the window sticker clearly listed the $200 charge this color, period.
The truth is that I did not see the color charge in any of the sites that I used while I was searching for my car. So it was a surprise seeing it when I went to the dealer to pickup my car.
However I do believe that I did not pay for it, since I negotiated the price before selecting the actual color.
No, please don't use STP Oil Treatment. It's a V.I. (Viscosity Indexer), and you don't need it. I would never put a can of STP in a new car.
If you have a concern with the start-up noise or rattle, please bring it to the attention of your Hyundai's Service Department, or a good independent mechanic. There may be a TSB reflecting this in the Azera. As you may know, you can register at Hyundai's service website and access ALL service info for your car, including the TSB (Technical Service Bulletins). Just remember to use MS Internet Explorer web browser, as their site is not alternate browser (such as Mozilla Firefox or Opera) friendly.
Re. switching over to a synthetic oil at the first oil change . . . I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. I've used synthetic since the early '80s, and have never experienced a mechanical failure in an engine. I currently use 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my Hyundai, and in my two older SAABs. Both SAABs have over 150K, and nothing but normal maintenance has ever been done on the engines. However, I still maintain a 3K/3mo. oil change interval. Some may say this is OCD-based, but I would rather be safe than sorry.
I would think that it's a bit unusual for hydraulic lifters to leak down in only 18 hours. Maybe what you're hearing is the steel timing chain before the tensioner pumps up (assuming it's a hydraulic chain tensioner)?? This is only a guess.
It took 19 gallons and it showed that there were another 31 miles left til empty. I filled it up to the second click off on the pump. The average mpg showed 24.1. So I think that the display is pretty accurate for me.
In Australia many 4wds, especially turbo-diesels that need very clean oil in often tough conditions...hot'n'dusty, fit an aftermarket filter that uses toilet rolls, or in Oz lingo..."loo rolls".
jim101 Sorry! I did not intend to offend. I have used petrol based tar and bug removers for years,and have never observed abrasion marks. Do you know the chemical content of the RainX product?
I'm not thinking about putting in the whole can, maybe half or less just to ensure that chains, lifters, etc. hang onto a little lubrication. I could add a pint of synthetic and see if that helps. I'm a little OCD so I can identify. Have used synthetic since the early 80's too, swear by the stuff. Ran an 85 STE (115k), 90 Grand Prix (225k), 90 Cutlass (136k) and a couple of others well over 100k. I too change every 3k not 3mo. because the vehicles are garage kept and reached the 3k interval before 3 mo. Currently it takes about 5 mths to reach 3k and again I won't change at 3 mo. because oil doesn't go bad just sitting. Example, oil on the shelf in the store may be on the shelf for months or longer or in the drum at dealers which often sit outside in the hot/cold sun 24/7, it doesn't break down.
My concern goes back to these type of problems years past, especially with 'new' engine designs/types/styles. Buick presented a V-6 back in the late 70's, new design. It became a big problem for GM. Seems the pickup and upper end oiling was less than required. Net was burnt mains, pointed instead of balled push rod ends and more. I actually tore more than one down and the findings were the same. Brother worked for Buick engineering and presented the problem after I showed him the engines. Buick came and took the engines and made imediate changes. Ford had the same problem with the early 70's 302 only they would spin mains and seize under load. I don't think that is the issue here and it well may be minor or of no concern but I'm going to try a couple of things just to see. May even put my recorder under the hood for that initial start up and take that to the dealer. Thank you for the reply, you gave me more to consider.
Hey, no problem, if we share, we all benefit or modify to make it better, thats what I call 'clean'.
Rain-X is 100% bio-degradable sooooo I think it's safe to say there are no petroleum additives. I did and you can call 1-800-542-6424 questions/comments about Rain-X (hope Pat doesn't give me heck for this, I'm already on thin ice). I'll let you make comment to the forum on what Rain-X tells you.
The abrasive (maybe a better term/word could be used) in petroleum keeps metal clean and lubricated but it's wear is in microns or less. It may well be that you have not rubbed one spot 'hard' enough to create a dull spot or the cloth you used was super soft.
I can tell you that the Rain-X mix takes the suicide bugs, road tar, oil, sap off without rubbing hard, I like it.
"There is substantial info available online on what filter is acceptable, and which have the best designs in anti-drainback valves. Some filters place the valves at the top-end of the filter (Hyundai OEM, Purolator, Mann (German brand), AC, etc.), but others place it on the base which can cause problems."
Permit me to add my two cents. Most spin-on oil filters have TWO valves - an anti-drainback valve and a pressure relief bypass valve. (GM uses a block-mounted pressure bypass valve on most engine series, so OEM and aftermarket oil filters for GM engines often contain no bypass valve.) Anti-drainback valves prevent dirty oil in the outer chamber from draining back to the sump after engine shutdown. ("You can check in, but you can't check out." -Hotel California) This valve - nothing more than a black or orange rubber flap visible through the multiple oil inlet holes, has to be positioned at the baseplate of the spin-on oil filter to do its job (Duhh!). The pressure relief bypass valve allows oil flow to the engine if the filtration media becomes clogged, in the case of startup during very cold weather when the motor oil is "reluctant" to move rapidly enough through the filtration media without stressing the case to rupture, or during high-speed operation - all of which could lead to engine oil starvation. The pressure relief bypass valve allows unfiltered oil to bypass the filtration media and flow directly to the engine during the above situations, since even unfiltered oil is better than no oil. The pressure bypass valve is automatic in operation, and when the internal pressure differential between the outer and inner chambers drops to the proper level, oil is again routed through the filtration media. Pressure bypass valves may be located at either end, though baseplate positioned pressure bypass valves are considered by some (Ford's a big proponent of this design.) to be the better choice since the oil can be immediately routed back out the filter to the engine's oil galleries rather than working its way the length of the oil filter before being allowed into the output tube at the dome of the oil filter. In practice, I doubt there's much real advantage either way. Champion Labs, maker of some K&N, Mobil 1, WalMart SuperTech, Autozone Valuecraft, and some American Bosche oil filters has introduced an updated spin-on oil filter design, "e-core", that cleverly combines both the pressure bypass and anti-drainback valves in one simplified piece.
Glad you are enjoying your Azera, gas mileage depends on perspective - I came from a vehicle that was 200HP small V-8 (4.3 L) and your numbers are a bit better (17 and 26) than I experienced with my old car - so if I get similar MPG in my new Azera I will be happy. Current MPG on my Azera is 19.1 MPG on my first tank (my typical commute half freeway, half city streets). I over estimated my MPG on my second tank it was actually 22.8 MPG on its first mostly freeway trip. It is wishful thinking on my part about the breaking-in (oh well I'm optimistic). Continue to enjoy your Azera, if it ever stops raining here in Northern California I will really start to enjoy my Azera. We have some road trips coming up later this spring and summer - I can't wait to take my car out.
Hi All, I received a phone call from my Hyundai Dealership today. I was told I have to wait another three weeks for delivery on my Black Azera Limited with Beige Interior. There are No Black Azeras to be had in my area. It looks like I am going to have to wait the full 10 weeks or more for delivery. Already ordered the Mud Guards and Custom Floor Mats and will be setting up an appointment for widows to be tinted when vehicle arrives. I know patients!
Would you be so kind to let me know where did you get the Mud Guards and Custom Floor Mats?
Did you check for your black azera in other dealers in your region? I had the same issue and after a while I found a dealer that was able to get it from another dealer for me.
Hi Edga and Others, I ordered the custom mats from LLoyd Mats in CA. I purchased them from the internet. The reason for the purchase is because the weather here in New England can get pretty nasty especially in the winter. The set of 4 mats are made of rubber and will be used during the bad months. I have already received them a they look pretty good. I was lucky with the Mud Guards. The Dealership where I ordered my car had a set and are holding them for me and will install them on my car when it arrives. I did a search for a Black with Beige from other local dealers and couldn't find one. The Dealership where I ordered the car called other dealers even dealers in New Hampshire and where unable to locate any. They did find a Black with Black but that is not what I wanted. So I placed the order and hopefully will be taking delivery in about three more weeks. It has been seven weeks now so another three won't kill me. The wait of about 8 - 10 weeks for an order seems to be the norm. JoeD
Eyyyaaat, I dare say, you been anywhere around Limerick, Sanford, Springvale in your travels? The wait is good, gives the weather a chance to perk up a bit.
Took delivery 1/31; 1400 miles to date and not a pimple to report. Been through 26 inch blizzard, keep it outside, drive mix of local and 25-30 mile NY City roundtrips and all is calm. First car I have had in a long time where my list for my first service interval is still blank!! Did take it back right away to get the various "programmings" (limp-home, door locks and EZ out) done...but No News....GOOD News.
And although we have very few snowsorms in Albuquerque, NM, I have no "issues" with my Limited Ultimate either. I just like it more every day. I'm getting 20.3 MPG back and forth to work - a 9.9 mile drive each way about 40% highway and 60% city. I'm hoping that the service learning curve is up to snuff by the time I need my first oil change. When I took it in the week after purchase for the tinting, I asked for the easy out to be programmed to include the seat position and they looked at me like I had three heads. The term "limp home" would likely have caused multiple coronaries. I'll give then a few more weeks to get up to speed.
I've had my Limited Premium for just over one month and I currently have 4300 miles on it. I did my first oil change (switching to Castrol Syntec Blend 10w-30) and everything is gravy! Only issues I've had...dash clock malfunctioning (replaced right away) and an issue with the metallic flake in the paint (black). Got a date with a Hyundai Corp. Rep. to see what's up with it. Other than that...not a complaint to register to be quite honest. :shades:
When we bought our car, it had about 130 miles on it. I noticed that it shifted extremely smoothly, but if I got on the pedal a bit there was a lag between first and second and did not have that pop off the line. Since I did not want to push the car for the first 1K miles, I drove her easily. Within the last two weeks however, I started driving a bit more aggressively, giving a bit more gas off the line when out and about. The shifting responded rather quickly and now I have to take it easy off the line or else I am flying. Actually started thinking about the possibility of a speeding ticket ( I have not had one in 25 years ).
Nice car, but definitely not marshmallow soft as you can really feel the road and lumps and bumps, but on smooth roadway very nice. Very happy I went with this car and not a Honda or Toyota. I have not had any problems, rattles, squeaks...nada at 1200 miles.
To the previous poster who thinks the car is overpriced, good luck finding ANYTHING like this car, new with standard warranty for under 28K.
....That the Azera has been ranked higher than the Toyota Avalon and Buick Lucerne by many major auto publications. Such rankings make me wonder why some would say Hyundai's are now too expensive. Expensive compared to what?
...bwia offers a few thoughtful points in his opinion of the Azera. Can we all just get along without going defensive at the least hint of criticism? I've test driven both the '06 Azera Limited and the '06 Sonata LX for about thirty minutes, each, including a few miles at freeway speeds. Other than listed engine power, the slightly quieter cabin of the Azera, and, frankly, preferring the styling of the Azera, I didn't find that much to recommend the Azera's pricing premium over the Sonata. They're both nice cars, but neither is a great road car - in my opinion. Which one will I buy? Neither. At just a tad over 19,500 miles on my pink-slipped '03 Sonata, I'd have to be a moron to take the trade-in hit at this stage of the car's life.
As an aside, it seems to me if Hyundai really wanted to up the ante regarding perceived value (aka, "depreciation") of their products in North America, the company would allow full transfer of their powertrain warranty to subsequent owners such as Suzuki (formerly Daewoo) does.
" Cushy seats and a nicely finished, uncluttered dashboard made long rides especially pleasant."
"With a 263-horsepower V6 engine the Azera bolts to 60 mph in a surprising 6.5 seconds."
"Large back window and rearward-sloping trunk result in the best rear visibility we're seen in years."
"Hyundai's Azera holds its own against 'near luxury' rivals yet costs less than many."
"With a base price of $26,835, the well-equipped Azera Limited undercuts several other large sedans by as much as $7,000. Our $28,415 test car came with an optional sunroof, six-CD changer and a clunky-looking tinted wind deflector that attached to the front edge of the sunroof. The deflector hurt the car's looks and gave us flashbacks to the early 1980s when such add-ons were common. But some of the standard features, like a power-operated rear-window sunshade, reminded us of a top-of-the-line Lexus or Audi.
Smooth Shifter
Like most sedans in its class, the Azera is good enough in all categories, but doesn't really stand out in any of them. Its 263-horsepower, six-cylinder engine is 36% more powerful than the motor in its predecessor, the slow and bland XG350. A smooth-shifting, five-speed automatic transmission helps make accelerating, passing and climbing steep hills seem fairly effortless by allowing the engine to make less noticeable transitions from one gear to the next. Handling is reasonably sharp, and the car's suspension, while too soft for vigorous sport-sedan-style driving, gives a nice combination of isolation from bumps and feedback from the road.
The Azera appears to mark the end of buyers having to explain their reasons for buying a Hyundai. Where previous models lagged behind the competition in design, quality and performance, the Azera is at least on par with rivals. We also think it has a prettier shape than many competitors. Its low cost is simply icing on the cake."
And for the same price you can buy a 12 or 14 year old Acura NSX! And I'll bet that the old NSX handles and performs better than the new Azera, but so what! You can't really compare new vs used! My old Acura CL Type S is a much nicer car than a brand new Accent!! But new is new, and used, no matter how nice, is just not comparable!!
in the glove box, in the bag with the black books one finds a quick reference guide... in that guide it talks about, auto door lock options, limp home mode, which can use four numbers of your choosing, which it does not mention and I think it mentions easy-out
I had to show it to the mechanic and from there he performed magic
Took I-95 south from Daytona to West Palm Beach starting with some 865 miles on the odometer. Cruised at 80 mph, about 2,400 rpm for close to 2.5 hrs. The MPG came in at a marvelous 28.5, not bad, not bad at all. Drove around the city for two days, daughters wedding. Drove past 'The Donalds' and hobnobbed a bit. Drove back to Daytona via Route 1. Overall mpg cam in at a very respectable 24.3, the key here was use of the cruise control as much as possible.
Now I must tell you I saw 'one' Azera during this ride, silver, it was heading North on Route 1. Makes me wonder if it was floridabob?
Now a trip like this wouldn't be possible without a little story... seems like other cars/vehicles would come up quickly from behind but wouldn't pass. This wasn't a one or two time affair but from 14 to 19 vehicles did this. Made me wonder till I realized they were looking at the Azera, smooth, real smooth. I best liked the Lexus, BMW, Audi G4, Avalon drivers who really stared, smooth, real smooth.
The trip was a dream, comfortable, smooth ride, cool air, just loving that Azera, but hey lets get real, we, the owners and drivers in this forum, like/love em cause to us they are just plain 'SMOOTH'
Actually saw a Mazzeratti, new, on the streets of WPB and ran into it's owner at 'Howlie's' the next day, he was walking around, yeah, that's right, actually walking around the Azera. Nice man, said he was going to get one for his daughter-in-law, go figure. Yes, I did walk around and touch the Mazz, wow.
Hate to say is just and expression. Actually, the nav. unit I saw was very nice...by Eclipse if I'm not mistaken. I do know it's the same one that some Acuras have and offer for $2500-3000. From my understanding...it is a dealer installed option.
Installing stereos or nav. units are quite easy to install on the Sonatas. I had an '02 and changing the head unit to an aftermarket was a snap! With the room it had behind the dash, the possibilities were endless. I'm sure the '05 Sonatas are pretty much the same.
I'll say this much, the Sonata was by far the easiest vehicle I've ever done a stereo system installation on. Like it was made for that purpose (for those that are into that kind of thing).
Has anyone actually seen or purchased an aftermarket nav system dash installed on the Azera? If so, from whom and at what price. I have heard about the Eclipse, but can't find any info.
I have not seen one in an Azera yet, but you can go to www.Crutchfield.com and you'll find that they sell 5 different models of in-dash nav. systems by Eclipse...starting at $1399.99 all the way up to $2399.99.
I have gone to the Crutchfield web site. It appears that considerable modification must be done to the car to accomodate these units. These modifications may be irreversable. I am hoping that a pop in replacement unit manufactured for the Azera becomes available.
To be honest, I'm not sure. Crutchfield said the same thing about the 02 Sonata when I wanted to replace the factory head unit with a double din aftermarket. However, when I got the new radio, the only thing I had to do was shave the back side of the dash cover to allow the radio to fit. When I traded the car in, I put the factory radio back and you couldn't tell I had done anything.
Your best bet may be to find a custome installer to do it...if you want one in.
I'm reading on this forum prices for Azera's including Ultimates at rediculously low prices. It seems, if you are all to be believed that the dealers are getting these cars for nothing, or selling them below cost. The market, in south Floida still seems to be strong for this model, with small inventories. Why would they sell these cars for no profit or even take a lose?
These posted prices on the Limited/Ultimate are making me feel I got ripped off paying $26,600 for my Limited/Premium (before TTL.) Could they be Azera salesman in disguise??? :confuse:
Comments
Actually, all paint colors on Sonata's and Azera's as available are (NO CHARGE, NADA, ZIP, FREEBEE).
One needs to know the base MSRP for a given model with different options and then determine if the 'dealer' added the $200.00 (for paint) as a little, should we say, 'dealer bonus'?
What aftermarket oil filters are compatible to Hyundai OEM filter kits with the 2 O rings?
To the best of my knowledge, Purolator either has, or soon will have, a direct replacement for OEM Hyundai with the O rings. This is their PureOne line of filters, which has excellent filter media. In the case of a cannister filter, the anti-drainback is part of the cover design generally. This varies from design to design however. Personally, I wish manufacturers would have kept spin-on filters, but the cannisters are more environmentally friendly.
Interesting . . . as more things change, the more the stay the same. A few of my old '50s vintage cars, both American and European, used cannister filters. Moving to a spin-on was a evolutionary improvement at that time!
A bit off subject, sorry, but I had to share that.
Yeah, I understand the 'cold start' (choke) RPM increase, the rattle was the concern. I wanted to know if it was just in my head and it wasn't. So don't call the guys in the white jackets just yet, I'm still sane, I think?
Any time metal to metal rattles it's not good. HMUSA put a new motor, aluminum vs. the steel/cast iron motor put in XG.
We're only at 690 miles so all of the filter stuff is factory and it only sits overnight, maybe 18hrs. None the less it appears that I will be changing over to synthetic at first oil change. In the meantime a can of STP will work just fine to help keep the upper end lubed before the cold start.
The truth is that I did not see the color charge in any of the sites that I used while I was searching for my car. So it was a surprise seeing it when I went to the dealer to pickup my car.
However I do believe that I did not pay for it, since I negotiated the price before selecting the actual color.
regards
Edgar
If you have a concern with the start-up noise or rattle, please bring it to the attention of your Hyundai's Service Department, or a good independent mechanic. There may be a TSB reflecting this in the Azera. As you may know, you can register at Hyundai's service website and access ALL service info for your car, including the TSB (Technical Service Bulletins). Just remember to use MS Internet Explorer web browser, as their site is not alternate browser (such as Mozilla Firefox or Opera) friendly.
Re. switching over to a synthetic oil at the first oil change . . . I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. I've used synthetic since the early '80s, and have never experienced a mechanical failure in an engine. I currently use 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my Hyundai, and in my two older SAABs. Both SAABs have over 150K, and nothing but normal maintenance has ever been done on the engines. However, I still maintain a 3K/3mo. oil change interval. Some may say this is OCD-based, but I would rather be safe than sorry.
I would think that it's a bit unusual for hydraulic lifters to leak down in only 18 hours. Maybe what you're hearing is the steel timing chain before the tensioner pumps up (assuming it's a hydraulic chain tensioner)?? This is only a guess.
Good luck with your Azera.
Sorry! I did not intend to offend. I have used petrol based tar and bug removers for years,and have never observed abrasion marks. Do you know the chemical content of the RainX product?
I'm a little OCD so I can identify. Have used synthetic since the early 80's too, swear by the stuff. Ran an 85 STE (115k), 90 Grand Prix (225k), 90 Cutlass (136k) and a couple of others well over 100k. I too change every 3k not 3mo. because the vehicles are garage kept and reached the 3k interval before 3 mo. Currently it takes about 5 mths to reach 3k and again I won't change at 3 mo. because oil doesn't go bad just sitting. Example, oil on the shelf in the store may be on the shelf for months or longer or in the drum at dealers which often sit outside in the hot/cold sun 24/7, it doesn't break down.
My concern goes back to these type of problems years past, especially with 'new' engine designs/types/styles. Buick presented a V-6 back in the late 70's, new design. It became a big problem for GM. Seems the pickup and upper end oiling was less than required. Net was burnt mains, pointed instead of balled push rod ends and more. I actually tore more than one down and the findings were the same. Brother worked for Buick engineering and presented the problem after I showed him the engines. Buick came and took the engines and made imediate changes. Ford had the same problem with the early 70's 302 only they would spin mains and seize under load.
I don't think that is the issue here and it well may be minor or of no concern but I'm going to try a couple of things just to see. May even put my recorder under the hood for that initial start up and take that to the dealer.
Thank you for the reply, you gave me more to consider.
Rain-X is 100% bio-degradable sooooo I think it's safe to say there are no petroleum additives.
I did and you can call 1-800-542-6424 questions/comments about Rain-X (hope Pat doesn't give me heck for this, I'm already on thin ice).
I'll let you make comment to the forum on what Rain-X tells you.
The abrasive (maybe a better term/word could be used) in petroleum keeps metal clean and lubricated but it's wear is in microns or less.
It may well be that you have not rubbed one spot 'hard' enough to create a dull spot or the cloth you used was super soft.
I can tell you that the Rain-X mix takes the suicide bugs, road tar, oil, sap off without rubbing hard, I like it.
Permit me to add my two cents. Most spin-on oil filters have TWO valves - an anti-drainback valve and a pressure relief bypass valve. (GM uses a block-mounted pressure bypass valve on most engine series, so OEM and aftermarket oil filters for GM engines often contain no bypass valve.) Anti-drainback valves prevent dirty oil in the outer chamber from draining back to the sump after engine shutdown. ("You can check in, but you can't check out." -Hotel California) This valve - nothing more than a black or orange rubber flap visible through the multiple oil inlet holes, has to be positioned at the baseplate of the spin-on oil filter to do its job (Duhh!). The pressure relief bypass valve allows oil flow to the engine if the filtration media becomes clogged, in the case of startup during very cold weather when the motor oil is "reluctant" to move rapidly enough through the filtration media without stressing the case to rupture, or during high-speed operation - all of which could lead to engine oil starvation. The pressure relief bypass valve allows unfiltered oil to bypass the filtration media and flow directly to the engine during the above situations, since even unfiltered oil is better than no oil. The pressure bypass valve is automatic in operation, and when the internal pressure differential between the outer and inner chambers drops to the proper level, oil is again routed through the filtration media. Pressure bypass valves may be located at either end, though baseplate positioned pressure bypass valves are considered by some (Ford's a big proponent of this design.) to be the better choice since the oil can be immediately routed back out the filter to the engine's oil galleries rather than working its way the length of the oil filter before being allowed into the output tube at the dome of the oil filter. In practice, I doubt there's much real advantage either way. Champion Labs, maker of some K&N, Mobil 1, WalMart SuperTech, Autozone Valuecraft, and some American Bosche oil filters has introduced an updated spin-on oil filter design, "e-core", that cleverly combines both the pressure bypass and anti-drainback valves in one simplified piece.
Carpeted floor mats with 'Azera' stitched in are standard/free with the Limited, why buy?
Would you be so kind to let me know where did you get the Mud Guards and Custom Floor Mats?
Did you check for your black azera in other dealers in your region? I had the same issue and after a while I found a dealer that was able to get it from another dealer for me.
Regards
Edgar
jnd17 has the mud guards and floor mats, maybe he can help
I picked the mud guards up at the local Hyundai dealer
I have the powder white pearl, I think jnd17 is waiting on the black with beige interior
Hope that helps some,
Jim
The wait is good, gives the weather a chance to perk up a bit.
Jim
Thanks for the info and I am sorry for the confusion.
Regards
Edgar
Nice car, but definitely not marshmallow soft as you can really feel the road and lumps and bumps, but on smooth roadway very nice. Very happy I went with this car and not a Honda or Toyota. I have not had any problems, rattles, squeaks...nada at 1200 miles.
To the previous poster who thinks the car is overpriced, good luck finding ANYTHING like this car, new with standard warranty for under 28K.
but hyundai is not overpriced!
As an aside, it seems to me if Hyundai really wanted to up the ante regarding perceived value (aka, "depreciation") of their products in North America, the company would allow full transfer of their powertrain warranty to subsequent owners such as Suzuki (formerly Daewoo) does.
Cheers!
Ray
"With a 263-horsepower V6 engine the Azera bolts to 60 mph in a surprising 6.5 seconds."
"Large back window and rearward-sloping trunk result in the best rear visibility we're seen in years."
"Hyundai's Azera holds its own against 'near luxury' rivals yet costs less than many."
"With a base price of $26,835, the well-equipped Azera Limited undercuts several other large sedans by as much as $7,000. Our $28,415 test car came with an optional sunroof, six-CD changer and a clunky-looking tinted wind deflector that attached to the front edge of the sunroof. The deflector hurt the car's looks and gave us flashbacks to the early 1980s when such add-ons were common. But some of the standard features, like a power-operated rear-window sunshade, reminded us of a top-of-the-line Lexus or Audi.
Smooth Shifter
Like most sedans in its class, the Azera is good enough in all categories, but doesn't really stand out in any of them. Its 263-horsepower, six-cylinder engine is 36% more powerful than the motor in its predecessor, the slow and bland XG350. A smooth-shifting, five-speed automatic transmission helps make accelerating, passing and climbing steep hills seem fairly effortless by allowing the engine to make less noticeable transitions from one gear to the next. Handling is reasonably sharp, and the car's suspension, while too soft for vigorous sport-sedan-style driving, gives a nice combination of isolation from bumps and feedback from the road.
The Azera appears to mark the end of buyers having to explain their reasons for buying a Hyundai. Where previous models lagged behind the competition in design, quality and performance, the Azera is at least on par with rivals. We also think it has a prettier shape than many competitors. Its low cost is simply icing on the cake."
sounds like a charles bronson theme...
in the glove box, in the bag with the black books one finds a quick reference guide... in that guide it talks about, auto door lock options, limp home mode, which can use four numbers of your choosing, which it does not mention and I think it mentions easy-out
I had to show it to the mechanic and from there he performed magic
Drove around the city for two days, daughters wedding. Drove past 'The Donalds' and hobnobbed a bit.
Drove back to Daytona via Route 1. Overall mpg cam in at a very respectable 24.3, the key here was use of the cruise control as much as possible.
Now I must tell you I saw 'one' Azera during this ride, silver, it was heading North on Route 1. Makes me wonder if it was floridabob?
Now a trip like this wouldn't be possible without a little story... seems like other cars/vehicles would come up quickly from behind but wouldn't pass. This wasn't a one or two time affair but from 14 to 19 vehicles did this. Made me wonder till I realized they were looking at the Azera, smooth, real smooth. I best liked the Lexus, BMW, Audi G4, Avalon drivers who really stared, smooth, real smooth.
The trip was a dream, comfortable, smooth ride, cool air, just loving that Azera, but hey lets get real, we, the owners and drivers in this forum, like/love em cause to us they are just plain 'SMOOTH'
Actually saw a Mazzeratti, new, on the streets of WPB and ran into it's owner at 'Howlie's' the next day, he was walking around, yeah, that's right, actually walking around the Azera. Nice man, said he was going to get one for his daughter-in-law, go figure. Yes, I did walk around and touch the Mazz, wow.
Waldorf, MD...Ken Dixon Hyundai.
Installing stereos or nav. units are quite easy to install on the Sonatas. I had an '02 and changing the head unit to an aftermarket was a snap! With the room it had behind the dash, the possibilities were endless. I'm sure the '05 Sonatas are pretty much the same.
I'll say this much, the Sonata was by far the easiest vehicle I've ever done a stereo system installation on. Like it was made for that purpose (for those that are into that kind of thing).
I have heard about the Eclipse, but can't find any info.
I am hoping that a pop in replacement unit manufactured for the Azera becomes available.
Your best bet may be to find a custome installer to do it...if you want one in.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
It seems, if you are all to be believed that the dealers are getting these cars for nothing, or selling them below cost.
The market, in south Floida still seems to be strong for this model, with small inventories. Why would they sell these cars for no profit or even take a lose?