Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

All About Exhaust Systems

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
This forum is specifically for exhaust system questions about any car. This includes catalytic converters, mufflers, tailpipes, hangers, bad smells, 02 sensors, smoke and possible drivability issues related to bad catalytics.

The forum is NOT for modifications (See our new "Speed Shop" Board!!)or for engine problems....just from the exhaust manifold on back, folks!


  • magillnmagilln Posts: 1
    It sounds like a chopper, has no acceleration, & is killing us with carbon monoxide in the car when our family is going somewhere. A leak in the exhaust near the engine would explain the carbon monoxide coming into the vehicle. The chopper sound, too, is under the front end. What I can't explain, is the lack of power & how that correlates with an exhaust system. Am I on the right track? Should I let a pro tackle this one? I can do a few things, maybe.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    Would a cracked exhaust manifold cause these symptoms?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yes indeed, or a bad exhaust manifold gasket or bad exhaust manifold "doughnut" or connector (where the exhaust header connects to the exhaust system before the catalytic).
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    In terms of his other question of how it would correlate to the lack of power - would that be because of the engine not getting the back pressure it needs from the exhaust system due to a leak?

    If it were my van, and it were otherwise mechanically sound, I would just spring for a whole new exhaust system (from manifold to tailpipe). Again, this is assuming the van is in otherwise good shape, and you think it can provide several more years of reliable service.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yeah, lack of back pressure would be one explanation---that really depends on the engine, but sure...many a junior hot-rodder has put on too large a diameter exhaust system, only to find a noticeable DROP in horsepower.

    But the loss of power could also be co-incidental. You could have other engine driveability issues going on. So you can't really count on the fixed exhaust system curing the engine issues.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Mercury Villager and it's twin the Nissan Quest are chronic for broken exhaust manifold studs. The manifolds warp, which puts excessive strain on the studs and eventually snaps them. A major PITA to fix, requires manifold removal, drilling out the broken studs in the heads, and usually requires the manifolds to be replaced or planed flat again.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    He doesn't need a whole new exhaust system, just a new header. Why spend the extra money on parts that aren't broken?

    The symptoms (exhaust in the engine bay, loss of power, sounds like a chopper) are classic cracked header issues. I know because I just replaced the very badly cracked one on my Jeep's straight-six (these engines are notorious for this problem). I knew it had a tear near the collector but it had another worse one higher up:

    Look around the header as best you can with a flashlight, especially where it attaches to the engine block. This is not a cheap repair, though, but it's the labor and not the technical part that makes it so expensive, it's all grunt work. I was quoted $800-$1000, equally split between parts and labor, from the stealership and two different shops. I went aftermarket instead and picked up one from 1A Auto Parts for $160 or so, including a lifetime warranty on the part, and had a local boy-racer type install it (he did have ASE certification) in his garage for another $160 cash. Got it back yesterday and all problems are solved, I've got at least 20 more HP back and it's so very quiet now.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    I was just saying that if it were mine, I would replace the whole system. Again, that is based on a few assumptions - that the van is in otherwise good shape and that he has never had any exhaust work done previously - and that I was going to keep it for several more years. I just figure on an 11 year old vehicle, I would rather go ahead and replace the exhaust system and be done with it. Plus, I guess I sometimes take for granted the fact that there are several smaller repair shops in my area that are VERY reasonable, and do good work. But I agree with your comment about the dealerships - if it isn't warranty related, I try to stay away from those guys.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The manifolds usually don't crack on 3.0L Villagers, they warp and snap the studs which hold them onto the cylinder heads.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    ugh. Bad as a cracked manifold is, snapped studs are far worse. Serious, serious dough. I was praying all of mine would come out OK when the guy put in the new one but they were fine.
  • I drive a 1995 Subaru Impreza. I brought it for it's annual inspection and I was told that my emissions output reading was too high to pass inspection and that I most likely had a clogged up catalytic converter. I was given two options. The first being to replace the cat, or the second option to flush the entire exhaust system which, I was told, would help me with my cat problem and only run me $90. Would flushing the exhaust system only be a temporary solution (if any solution at all). Since I am female and I have limited knowledge about cars I wanted to make sure I wasn't being taken for a ride ;no pun intended.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Drive immediately to another repair shop. The whole thing sounds like nonsense. If you had a clogged catalytic, your car would barely run, if at all, and there is no such thing as "flushing" the exhaust system.
  • samos1samos1 Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Hyundai Tucson that I purchased around christmas. I received bad gas about 2 weeks after. Car was taken to hyundai service center and repair work was completed. 7 months later my check engine lights came in and I returned to the same repair shop, they now tell me that the bad gas cause the converter's to go bad. This is after the repair and flush they completed back in January. Is the converters a part of the emission system? Is what they are telling possible?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Should be covered under warranty as part of the Federal emissions warranty. You may want to check with Hyundai.

    To answer your question, no I think their explanation is total BS even though the catalytic could of course be defective for some other reason. If your fuel delivery system is screwy, allowing the engine to inject a very rich mixture of fuel into the engine, that will eventually screw up a catalytic, yes, since it can't 'scrub' that much raw fuel. But that's not "bad gas", that's just too much gas.

    Last of all, if they haven't tested the catalytic, they don't know diddley yet.
  • samos1samos1 Posts: 4
    They stated they tested the converted and it was starting to clog, they check with Hyundai also and stated "they were told by Hyundai that this is not a warranty issue because of the bad gas i received from the gas station back in January 2005." I thought that since this part of the emission system it should be covered under warranty no matter what caused the problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    sounds like nonsense to me, the whole thing start to finish. Either you aren't quite telling it right or they are making up some fairy tale because something isn't right here, and I don't mean that as a criticism. I realize that info gets jumbled when passed from party to party to party.
  • I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe.... recently smogged vehicle(1st smog check) failed, the report says "Fuel Temperature Sensor A CIRC" my question is what does this mean ? Is this a warranty issue? Or should i attempt to have this problem fixed locally and how much can i expect to pay for a Temp Sensor repair?

    I might add I have noticed no other problems with my car and it only has 14K+ miles on it
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Unless there's something really unusual going on, it has to be under warranty. The only exception I can think of is if someone has tampered with it.
  • The background on this is that I just got back from Central America and that the car had been sitting at my in-laws. I bought it used back in 2002 and it held up pretty well for the two years that I had it. Then the radiator busted in spring 2004. I tried to sell it before I left for Central America but I got busy with other stuff and it didn't get sold.

    Anyway, after I got back, I noticed right away that the mileage was poor and that the car lacked a lot of oomph (for lack of a better word). I had to get the car inspected for registration purposes, anyway, and so I brought it in. I was told then that my muffler had a leak (they showed me the hole, so this is legit). Because they had to order the part, I took my car out of the shop for a few days to pick up my mother at Dulles. On the way, after stopping for lunch, the car repeatedly stalled on me for a while, and even when it kept going, I still had the problems noted earlier.

    I brought in, and they said my catalytic converter is pretty much fried. I don't doubt this, as the symptoms I described earlier match what one would expect with a bad catalytic converter (at least based on the internet research that I've done in the last couple days).

    Anyway, to replace both the muffler, pipe, and cat, I've got an estimate of about $590. For a car that only books at $2200-2300 anyway, that seems like a pretty hefty repair bill (at least on my budget). In any case, I'd be willing to pay it if I knew that all would be kosher with the car again and that it wouldn't be right back in the shop a couple months from now.

    That said, everything I've read suggests that catalytic converters go bad because of other problems: timing, bad fuel mixtures, etc. I guess the good thing is that these problems sound easily remedied and hopefully wouldn't cost all that much. However, is it possible to figure out what the problem is before I authorize the replacement of the exhaust system? Is it possible that the cat died because of old age, much like the muffler seems to have rusted out? What do I need to think about before authorizing this repair?

    Thanks in advance to any with answers!
  • I have a 2000 MAZDA MPV with 72k miles on it. This vehicle has the exhaust manifold integrated with the converter, the 2 can't be bought separately. It actually has 2 manifold/converter pipes, one onthe left one on the right. The one on the right has developed a hole (NOT a crack) in the pipe, in a wend near where the gas leaves the engine. 2 questions:
    1) Would this part be eligible for the 8 yr/80k emissions warranty? The converter box looks fine but you obviously can't replace the manifold pipe without pulling the converter
    2) How do I approach the dealer on this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    The muffle shop can put a "test pipe" and bypass the catalytic entirely
  • jims40jims40 Posts: 5
    i want to upgrade my whole exhaust system the headers, turbo downpipe to the cat, muffler, everything could someone tell me a good website or someone to call cause its pretty hard to find out about volvo performance parts i also want an intake but im pretty sure k & n will work
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Check and
  • I am trying to gather information about exhaust systems available for my car, a 1996 Ford Mustang GT.
    I am wanting to replace the exhaust system from the headers on back.
    I have spoken with a few people but I am unable to understand the whole package.
    I dont have enough background information to make a decision on my own. I guess what I am trying to figure out is not what HP gains I get but performance by upgrading my exhaust system, yet I still want the car to be street legal and able to handle the stress of everyday driving.
    I don't understand the x-pipe set up. (though i understand some of the physics)
    what I don't understand is the Off-road description listed on most of the x-pipe descriptions.
    Do you need a system with an x-pipe configuration? pros and cons
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    "off-road" means not smog legal--so the vendor is covering their butt legally by telling you this.

    You're not going to get very much HP gains from an exhaust system and header...not sure what you were expecting but if you ended up with 15HP total you'd be lucky.

    Best way is to look at the ENTIRE intake/exhaust as ONE LONG PIPE....makes no sense to work on one end but neglect the other, and once you've done front end of the pipe (air intake system) and back end of the pipe (what exits the engine), you are still limited by the engine itself (the middle of the pipe).

    So you do air intake, intake header, throttle body, exhaust header, mufflers. If you want more HP after that, you'll have to consider different camshafts, and/or larger injectors and turbocharging for serious HP gains IMO.
  • My 1988 nissan maxima has a 3.0 liter v-6 and the exhaust is puny. i looked at some tips but will that help the sound. i want a low grumbling sound like in a big block chevy! is there any bolt on type tips that will give me that sound of something close to it??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    not really. Tips are mostly cosmetic or maybe give you a dull kind of fart-sound. For what you want, I think a free-flow cat-back exhaust system is the only thing that will get you that sort of sound.
  • so whats the best sound i could get out of a tip?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    :-0 Best tip I could give you is that if you want a big block Chevy sound, buy a big block Chevy and get rid of the Nissan :-) Hey, I'm kidding...don't know if there is any way to change the exhaust sound of that Nissan that much.
  • I just purchased a 99 Taurus SE with the 24 valve Duratec motor. Form all accounts it should have dual exhaust, but it only has a single exhaust. The muffler and pipes appear to be original as the car only has 69K miles. My question is, were there Taurus's built with 24 valve motor and single exhaust? To go dual exhaust do you have to replace the whole system or does it split after the cat convertor?
    2nd question, same car. The car has ABS but drum brakes on the rear. (Has the ABS logo on the window?) From what I read all Taurus's with ABS had discs on all 4 corners.
    3rd and final question. Is 24 valve Duratec 185 or 200 horse? Depending where you read you see it both ways.
    Thanx for any info,
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Hate to break this to you but you will never get a mellow V-8 sound out of that Nissan. Tips will do nothing.

    The best sound of all was an old six cylinder Chevy with a split manifold. Straight pipe on one side and an 18" glass pack on the other!
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    You should go to the next shop.Now with a better understanding of your problem mabey they will help you. Act like you know . If your converter is cloged now buy a new one befor you mess up your muffler.Get prices first then find some one to work on your car. Dont act like damisel in distress mecanices see that as easy prey.Head light fluid?
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    they can test the system without the converter.With a test peice.Price should be cheeper with your new muffler. Take your car back to the same shop. Mabey they can do a package deal because of your new muffler. Your car isnt worth much without a properly functioning converter. Cars ara hard to sell that way. Fix the problem then sell it quick.
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    Can you buy the test pipe? for a perminate fix
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You can buy a test pipe but it would be illegal to use it permanently on the street. I don't think any shop would permanently install one for you.
  • I was wondering y there are 3 cats on this car and if i take the front 2 off will it be able to pass smog if the back cat is brand new. and does anyone know which one of the 3 fails the most.
  • saltypawsaltypaw Posts: 1
    I have a Saturn 2001 SC1, the service engine soon light has come on. I had the local parts store run a computer scan on the problem. It indicated it is a reflow problem.
    What needs to be done to the system?
    Thanks :sick:
  • Quick question. I have a Honda Accord 2003. Was driving on the road and heard a rattling noise under the car in the front that became louder. When AAA came by the guy said i had double heat shields and the one on the bottom was the one dragging - he took it out and said I didn't need it. Is this true?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Heat shields are important...that's why Honda engineers put them there...the double shield is meant to protect your catalytic converter from starting grass fires, etc.
  • The OEM suggests for 2 mufflers for my exhaust system (a center and a rear).
    Can I use 2 universal muffler instead of the OEM parts and build my system, will this work as good as the original?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Don't see why not. The only snags I can see are 1) clearance issues with the floorpan or other parts of the car, or with the ground; 2) don't use a larger diameter pipe than OEM, or if you do, only marginally larger.
  • Thank you, Sir.
    do you hav any suggestions to turbo my non-turbo engine, will this be too muc work (changing cam, intake, manifolds..??)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yeah, it's a lot of work and your engine would probably have to be strengthened internally or run at pretty low boost. On older engines, this is risky. I suppose you could install a used turbo engine all ready to run but I suppose you would also have to install the donor car's engine management system.
  • thats a lot of work. back to my original muffler question, can i go with one muffler instead of the 2 on the original that make any difference?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sure as long as you aren't getting rid of the catalytic converter,which is illegal to do. It might sound louder though, depending on which muffler you pick. One of your mufflers is a resonator, a kind of silencer.
  • well i bought the kit from autohasz, when I ordered it it said STARLA kit which is expensive than the WALKER mufflers but when I got my package I see STARLA stickers stuck over the WALKER manufaturer sticker. Is this ok for the seller to do this? I feel compromised for some cheap shot money.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Hmmm...that is odd unless Walker makes these things for STARLA and it's better quality...don't know what to say...
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 13,788
    so it's almost a year for a reply, oh well.
    not sure of the year, but the hp of the duratec dropped from 200 to 185 when they went to the single exhaust.
    my '04 focus has abs and rear drum brakes. haven't really had to use it though.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • mcb2mcb2 Posts: 1
    I have a subaru Legacy GT two stage twin turbo 2.0Lt 1994 model, i had the original exhaust pipe which i changed to a free flow pipe, after i did that i've notice the fuel consumption is so high and the mechanic told the car has now catalytic converter, what can i do? look for a catalytic converter or just change the pipe to another free flow pipe that does a little restriction of air? The performance is good as well as the sound. Plz help...... :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.