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2013 and earlier-Subaru Outback Lease Questions



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    edited April 2010
    my1st -

    I read all of your posts and entirely understand (as well as appreciate) them. Actually, many of the responses you received blows my mind. While actually buying a car at dealer cost can be a tough thing for many people to accomplish (depending on where they live and/or the effort they want to put into it), it is entirely doable exactly for the reasons you stated previously. In the end, it is all about being knowledgeable about what you want, how much you are willing to pay, reading the fine print, and being assertive.

    So, thank you for your contribution.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    oops... sorry. I did not get to these posts yet..... :blush:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I too was blown away. Just like you said, I know how this stuff works inside and out and I am more than willing to share the details, but after this forum i will think twice about it. It can be very stressful for the average Joe and I think that is what we were seeing from some of these forum members, pent up frustration composed of different markets, different supply and demand etc. I live in metro area and the competition to sell cars is cut throat.

    In any event, know one even thinks about the price or the payment a month or two after the purchase. Its over by that point. I love my outback, I miss the manual transmission I had in my last car but this CVT is fantastic. I was concerned about a lack of power as well but all is good in the hood.

    Take care my friend, thanks for the support
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    edited April 2010
    I followed a little of the back and forth, but opted to steer clear of this one until the dust settled! I leased 3 vehicles ('93 Toyota, '97 Dodge, '00 Ford) before returning to conventional purchasing when NY's Vicarious Liability law settlements made leasing too expensive to consider.

    Once I cracked the code on leasing math, I wrote a little routine for myself that I could play out on a programmable calculator and later an early laptop that I'd bring with me to the dealership to help keep the dealer 'honest'. In those days, they'd get away with murder. You could negotiate a price and the value of a trade, they'd quote money factor and residual, and yet the monthly payment would always come out way higher than it should! Magic (in their pocket). I always ended up in a fight over the calculation, and once brought TMCC into the situation to arbitrate. I advised most people who didn't understand the subject to stay away from leasing. 'Leasing' could too easily become 'fleecing'.

    Now the web is full of third party calculators that do this all for you. All you have to do is negotiate as you stated. First the car as a purchase, the trade separately later, and then look for the best lease terms (further out of pocket cap cost reduction, MF, residual, sales tax up front vs delayed, over mileage charges, incentives as cash back or cap cost reduction, initiation fees, etc.) depending on your anticipated needs and best financial outcome for your situation.

    I also learned neat tricks like how to transfer title at the end of the lease to a new buyer to escape having to pay over mileage and even minor damage without taking title and paying more sales tax! With Dodge, I even found that the residual to buy it out was negotiable at the end of the lease. That worked well when the used car market dropped and they knew they would take a bath at the wholesale auction.

    Cudos on knowing how to work the system and on getting a great deal.
  • Hell ya, you got it down pat. Do all of that on the last day of the month and you are destined to get a great deal.

    All banks are different, so many of them will negotiate the buyout for you, but many of the manufacturers finance companies may not. Transferring title also means you can trade the car in early and get something else if the math is in your favor. I know VW won't but I leased a GTi a few years back from Sovereign Bank and they dropped like 2 grand come lease end.

    Right on guys!!!

    And again I apologize for all the nastiness in that conversation, I just don't take being called a liar lightly, especially from Internet Super Hero's who hide behind the monitor. You should have seen the posts that were deleted. The guy ended up calling the dealership where I bought it, the staff laughed at him b/c they were following the whole thing in this forum. My salesman backed me up and he went packing. That's a beautiful win right there. The salesman called me from the showroom as they read the stuff, we had a good laugh.
  • thedrakethedrake Posts: 14
    Is 399/mo 12K/yr for 42 months a good price on this vehicle (not including taxes and fees) ?
  • my1stscoobydoomy1stscoobydoo Posts: 15
    edited April 2010
    Not too sure on that one. You haven't really given the price. Just try to negotiate the price of the car first. Don't get sucked into buy a payment, thats where people lose money. Just pick one in stock, get a look at the invoice and aim to be with in $500 below or above it depending on availability and the market you are in. The payment falls where ever it falls, all you do from there is either add money down or change the months or miles to get the payment where you want it.

    Just get the price nailed down first and agree on it, trade value second and only after the price of the car is established no if ands or buts!!!!! Then you will get the calculated payment and adjust as I said above as needed. I recommend doing this either online or on the phone on the last weekend of the month, that way you aren't trapped in one showroom all day and the dealer will be motivated, you get better results working the phones with 3 or 4 dealers at the same time and you will save a lot of running around. Good Luck.
  • Hi there,

    Can you please tell me the residual and money factor for a 12,000 miles lease for this car?

  • what is a good price with no money down on a 10k per year lease on an outback limited 6 cylinder?
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    Greetings vancouver83. Here's the information that you're looking for. Chase's current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 3.6R with 12,000 miles per year are .00140 and 53%, respectively.

    Subaru is not currently providing any cash incentives on leases of this model.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • Thank you very much. This info is very much appreciated.
  • Hi,
    Could someone help me find out what the residual and money factor would be for a 2.5i Premium Outback? I would like this for both 36mo and 42mo lease period and for 10k and 12k miles/year. Does it make a difference if I specify the transmission (manual) and options (AWP)?

    1) 36mo (10k): MF=__, Residual =__
    2) 36mo (12k): MF=__, Residual =__
    3) 42mo (10k): MF=__, Residual =__
    4) 42mo (12k): MF=__, Residual =__

    Many thanks!
  • billybobiibillybobii Posts: 6
    Please comment on how reasonable the following lease is on the above auto. It does have Sirius Radio and Remote engine start with homelink dimming mirror.

    Inv 32863
    MF .00120
    Res 53% 10,000 miles
    Cap Cost 30785
    Inception Fees $1500

    Monthly Payment with tax of 6.5% $475

    Are the inception fees realistic?

    The Dealer is Schumacher Subaru in WP Fl.

  • peteyboy30peteyboy30 Posts: 34
    Howdy all...

    I'm in the market for a 2010 OB 2.5i with a few added options. I'm wondering:

    1. Does anyone recommend any Long Island (NY) dealers? If so, please give me some reasons why, names, etc.

    2. I'd like Car Man to provide the most up-to-date residual and money factor for this OB. Also any reasons I should go with buying over leasing (I plan on keeping the car for a long time).

    3. Should I wait until the 2011 comes out, so I can get a better deal on the 2010? Anyone know when the 2011 will be available?

    Thank you guys very much. <3
  • chea89chea89 Posts: 48
    I went to 4 dealers on LI with the price from Van Bortel Subaru website. None of the 4 dealers would order me a car for that price, they wanted about $1200 more. Ended up buying from Bill Kolb Subaru-they matched the price I wanted. I take my car to North Coast Subaru in Glen Cove for service.
  • jmhillsjmhills Posts: 2

    Last June I leased a 2009 2.5i manual SE Outback with all the gear and mat in the rear, mats and auto dimming rear mirror. The agreed upon terms were 297/ mo for 36 months and 15k/ yr. I love the wagon but my needs have changed. I called and got a payoff amount and plan on trying to trade the Outback in but Im unclear as to how much I actually owe and how to determine it? Chase, or Subaru Motor Finance says I owe $19,xxx and the dealers will offer me $20,xxx for the car on trade. Is this all that is needed? Im curious and dont know how to figure out the math. I got it at 15k/ yr as I wasnt sure how much I would drive as historically it is a lot but im sitting at 11800 right now in my first year so I am way under mileage. Looking for some help here. Thanks.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    You're very welcome, vancouver83.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    Here's the information that you're looking for, chavera2010.

    Subaru's current lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2.5i Premium Outback with 12,000 miles per year are .00115 and 53%, respectively.

    The numbers for an otherwise identical 42 month lease are .00145 and 50%.

    The transmission does indeed make a difference. These are the numbers for models equipped with an automatic transmission.

    If you were to lease this vehicle with only 10,000 miles per year, its residual values would be 1% higher.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    Hi peteyboy30. You never mentioned how long you want to lease for or what mileage allowance you need, so I had to make some assumptions. Let me know if you want something different.

    Subaru's current lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a base 2010 Outback 2.5i with 15,000 miles per year are .00120 and 52%, respectively.

    Subaru does not have any 2011 models out yet, but I suspect that the '11s will begin to arrive at dealers fairly soon. I believe that it has officially announced pricing for the '11 Outback, which is almost identical to the '10 model.

    Given the fact that Subaru has virtually no incentives on the 2010 Outback right now, it couldn't hurt to wait and see if it introduces any offers to help clear out old inventory when the 2011 models begin to arrive at dealers.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • Thanks Car_man! Do you know how much of a difference it makes to opt for the manual transmission instead of automatic?

    Thanks again!
  • drewsnycdrewsnyc Posts: 2

    I'm considering leasing and am not sure how to tell if it's a good deal. I initially negotiated a 2.5 ltd with a few extras for $27200 including destination not including 6% sales tax (Sticker price $29154 based on I inquired about lease options and was told the following:

    42 month 12k miles a year $1500.00 total out of pocket $425.00 a month.

    42 month 10k miles a year $1500.00 total out of pocket $418.00 a month.

    Are these good deals considering the sales price I negotiated? Do I need additional information to make that assessment?

    Thanks for helping a newbie.
  • I think thats a terrible deal. You can get a much more expensive car with that kind of money.

    I am no expert but I have found that its best not to absolutely have your mind on 1 car to buy. Look around for deals you can find. Subarus are fantastic and I love them but I went to lease a V6 Limted and it was more expensive to lease than a BMW (3 series). Subaru sometimes takes advantage of our loyalty.

    I ended up with a fully loaded Maxima (many more features than the outback) for about $70 less than the outback.

    Look around, outbacks are fantastic but the 2011s are coming out in July so they should give you better deals.
  • drewsnycdrewsnyc Posts: 2
    I had a feeling that this wasn't a good lease deal but do you think it's because the negotiated sale price was simply too high?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Foresters have the best residuals among Subarus (up to 62%) if you feel like getting a quote for one of those.
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    No problem chavera2010. Subaru's June lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2010 Outback Premium with a manual transmission with 15,000 miles per year are .00135 and 52%.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    You're right about that, ateixeira. I was just looking at the resids for the 2011 Forester and I was amazed.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum

    2010 Forester lessee
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    And Legacy 2.5i Premium CVTs. Just saw that quote in the other thread, holy cow! 68% in 3 years!
  • thedorkthedork Posts: 10
    Could you please advise what price of that model I should negotiate? How low below the invoice I can go?

    I am currently leasing the same one 2007 model - my deal was - $0 down, 36m, 12k miles for $281/month - would I be able to get the same deal?

    Thank you!
  • dim109dim109 Posts: 2

    Does anyone know residual value and money factor for 2011 outback 2.5 premium
    auto trans. for 36m lease 10k/year?

    Thank you much!
  • carson20carson20 Posts: 1
    We are negotiating for a 2011 outback 2.5 limited with moonroof / nav package. Could you advise how low below invoice can we go, and the residual value and money factor for 36m lease 12k/year? If location is important, we are in SF Bay Area. Thank you for your help!
This discussion has been closed.