paint sealant on new cars.. a total and unadulterated waste of money.. ask any body shop.. or in my case a very good friend and retired Dupont VP who was an expert in car paints for them... he laughs when he hears this stuff.. some great b.s. marketing jibberish by dealerships that just comes down to ADP.. Additional Dealer Profit..
I'd worry more about how well a car was painted and if it had 'orange peel'..under that clear coat than I would about if it was sealed or not... I'm sure you know what it is.. a wavy ugly crackly looking paint job especially looking down the side of the car... put on a decent coat or two of NuFinish for $4.95 a bottle from Wally World and the paint is a-ok for a long long while..
if a dealer says he can't deliver the car without it or that 'it's already done and on it'..... bye bye.. get another sucker to pay for it.. used to be they did the 'undercaoating thingy'... then people caught on since the factory has basically been undercoating for a very long time.. more ADP..
and that's why dealers and car salesman get a bad rep...for using crapola tactics like that..
In the few times I've bought new vehicles, its when your brain is fried, after settling on a price, and your sitting in the finance office. While your adrenaline is building, getting ready to sign your life away, they say (for just a few bucks more a month, we have .... x... y ...).
You don't know you've been suckered until your blood pressure returns to normal...
The service advisor told me it was not an official TSB (whatever that means). . . Good news is they replaced (both) rear lower control arms and all the noises are gone. The right one was the culprit but they chose to replace both. . .fine by me. Gotta say I've got a terrific dealer with a great service department that didn't blow me off when the problem (early-on) was hard to duplicate.
TSB - Technical Service Bulletin. When there are enough problems with a specific issue, engineer(s) at GM will publish a problem description and its solution. Sometimes, it's simply a work-around procedure, or a set of instructions for fixing the problem.
Many times, when you find problems, it doesn't hurt to do an investigation for a TSB number. Google works if your good at describing the problem. Also, these forums are a good resourse too.
Why? When you visit your dealer, and you can give them a TSB reference, they aren't guessing about what needs to be done. The service techs don't always have the time to stay up to date on all the issues out there, and sometimes the descriptions of problems don't match up to TSB's when they do look for problems in the computer.
Has anyone heard of an update to the issues with the L molding on the rear door/windows? I know mine has popped loose and won't stay in place, and I've seen this on other '07's driving around out there.
I also remember another post earlier where someone else was having this problem.
Supposedly, GM is aware of this...But was wondering if any fix was in place yet for this problem?
Thanks noneill, The Yukon may have been sealed and I just didn't know it. It was dark blue and showed every speck of dirt. That is why I have ordered the Tahoe in gold mist. I will ask the dealer if they will seal the paint. The no waxing is what made up my mind to have it sealed.
Hey stakeout, I didn't see your post until after I had made up my mind to have the paint sealed. Now I am not so sure I want to do it. I will have to think on it for a bit. Luckly, (or maybe not so lucky, since I have been waiting, waiting, and waiting.) my Tahoe isn't even going to be built until Monday, so I have time.
Can you describe the exact location of the "L" trim? Is this on the inside or outside? My Tahoe is on order and I want to make a note of some of the issues people are having. Thanks.
yop.. you got it...settle on a price.. and from then on.. never deviate from that settled price.. always answer No No No No to any questions or offers in that finance office.. if you don't you just gave back everything you fought and negotiated for.. and put more profit back in the dealer's pocket.. and I might add.. out of yours..
It's the trim on the outside of the window. It extends from the bottom part of the window around and up the back side of the window. It's just a piece of plastic that the top part keeps popping out. Not sure it causes any problems or anything...But IMHO shouldn't be happening on a $50K vehicle.
The first time I washed my new Tahoe, while I was drying the rear window, it popped out the top portion of it. Very frustrating. Hopefully the engineers will come out with a new part for it soon.
Stopped by a dealer yesterday and checked out a new Denali. Didn't have time for a test drive but did start it up. I also checked out the gas cap and door for indications on what grade gas was required and didn't find any, so asked the salesman. Without hesitation he said regular. Anybody else confirm this? What a breakthrough that would be. 380 hp burning regular. EPA fuel mileage estimates were still 13 city and 19 highway Would still be helpful to save .20/ gallon while getting that mileage.
Another observation I made while there. A loaded SLT 4WD was $52,xxx and the Denali without nav was $50,xxx.
The fuel requirement is correct. The 380hp 6.2 is tuned for Regular, and the 403hp Escalade version is tuned for Premium.
I picked up my '07 Escalade March 1, but have mixed Regular in it without hearing any pinging. The Owner's Manual says that the Premium is "recommended", but will tolerate Regular based on the computer's knock sensing system.
It $3.10 a gal for Premium here in Lake Tahoe.
As for the NAV, it is a "must have" goodie, especially with the backup camera.
Am I the only one out there thinking that the back seats are hard to maneuver on the 07.Do you always have to slam down the second row of seats before you get it to go back up. Any info would help. Thanks,C45
Are you refering to putting the seat-back up into the seated position?
I've noticed that when flipped up, and putting them back, it does require that the seat be firmly reset before the back-rests go up. However, over the last month, it's been getting more "broke-in". I'm thinking its just a matter of being new.
Im getting ready to make the purchase....I think... and Ive noticed I can only find the Denali in Black on Black fully loaded up?! I want the Stealth Grey with Black inter. Anyone seen that match up? or is it just that Im looking in the wrong places. Im looking for a completely loaded Denali ?! Thanks for anyones inside info. Esp. Sales pro's*
They provide a 7 pin plug with the factory tow package, so you need to buy a 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor for towing small trailers. These are not expensive, I got one for my '06 Z71 Silverado for about $ 6.50. A drawbar with a 2 inch ball rated for 6000 lbs and already mounted can be bought from Auto Zone for about $ 26. Both of these are also available from Gm, except at substantially higher cost, and you must buy the hitch ball separately and mount it yourself.
Hmm, $ 700 is kinda pricey for several square feet of plastic film. (In fact more than a top quality spray in bedliner for a full size truck). I have seen these do-it yourself kits sold for about $ 200. The pieces are all pre-cut and all you have to do is to apply them and squeege out the air bubbles. How hard can it be to do it yourself?
Went into the dealership to drop off and leave my 2007 Tahoe, LT2, 4x4, for the following: 1) Misfitting for plastic piece that fits between the windshield and dash; 2) Rattle above the driver's head; 3) XM radio kits off, displays "Not Available" on radio, and then changes to standard FM radio channel; 4) Plastic "L" channel around the two back doors coming loose; 5) Engine has vibration or is making "growling" sound in 4 cyclinder mode; 6) Air escapes from around the two rear doors and around the rear seal on the rear window when fan and aux fan is on max or when I use the remote start.
While giving the dealer service guy my laundry list, he stated there is a service bulletin recall to update the HVAC computer control chip. (First I heard of that) They did not mention it last week when I had an oil change, so it must be new. Here is a list of what they did to the tahoe or what they told me. The list will be in the same order as my complaints.
1) They removed the plastic dash peice and refit it; 2) Headliner was improperly installed in the factory, they had to fix the insulation and reinstall it; 3) On going radio problem, GM is working on a firmware fix and will send out a service bulletin when they fix it; 4) Glued the top pieces back on, cross my fingers and hope that works LOL; 5) GM bulletin states that noise/vibration is normal and is to be expected. When the engine goes from 8 to 4 cylinders or vice versa, the harmonics change thus causing the vibration/growl noise. GM has no plans to fix it, basically told me to live with it; 6) Check it and stated that air escaping is normal due to overpressure in the interior of vehicle. According to dealership, all 12-14 other Tahoes on their lot do the same thing so it must be okay, I am going to revisit this at a later date, not happy with their answer.
No clue what the HVAC computer change did, but GM said to do it, so they did.
P.S. Before anyone asked my radio is a non-nav, Boses speaker, 6 disc changers with XM.
FYI: just had the HVAC computer recall completed last week. Dealer said the fix was needed because if the outside airtemp was at or below 32 degrees, the airconditioner/defrost wasn't allowed to start. After the reprogramming - now the A/C is allowed to work.
Just thought I would post a few thinks abount my 2007 Tahoe LTZ.The build date was 3/6/07 we just happened to be on the dealers lot when it was unloaded off the truck on 3/13/07 it was exactly what I wanted. The dealer had approx 54 in stock. One of the things that I need to discuss is the Nav/Bose/Rear DVD system I have been told that it has the Bose Center Point Surround Sound and Digital Signal Processing but I have not been able to access it. I know how to access it but it's not there.I'm running out of people to call or ask.Any help would be appreciated. Also when the transmission is in 4th gear and the torque converter clutch is engauged I feel a harsh vibration when the engine goes thru the rpm of 1200 to 1400. Speed does'nt matter its only in that rpm range. I love driving it,think it's an exceptional veh
Check around and you will find that to be a good deal....This stuff covers both mirrors several inches up on the hood area, Headlights, foglights, and all front end that is exposed paint areas. Comes with a lifetime warranty and just try putting it on yourself...Looks great and cannot event tell its there. Well worth the price to protect the front end....I heard from an owner that had this previous on his car and when traded in 5 years later pealed off without rock chips and look new
This is not a major thing but I tend to watch how the bottom of the vehicle looks from behind. Today I was driving behind a 2007 Tahoe and I noticed that the rear suspension structure was showing several thin metal bars and I had a concern that they may corrode in several years. Am I worrying too much, or is it a legitimate concern?
it seems that a 'red flag' should go up when anytime the dealer puts a additional sticker on the window next to the MSRP sticker...for some such wasted items... or gets you into their room of doom with the finance guy... anything after the initial sale price agreed upon is profit big time for them...
I had a concern that they may corrode in several years.....
Not to worry ... My 2000 Tahoe that I recently traded for the '07' Tahoe had NO significant corrosion or rusting problems! ... That included some time spent in the Snow & Salt of upstate NY.
About to take my 2007 Tahoe in for its first oil change (current mielage is 2877). Where should i go (dealer vs quick lube place)? Should i get an engine flush to remove all the stuff from the new engine? Synthetic oil? Any advice would be appreciated.
FIRST OIL CHANGE ... I'm a FIRM believer in very early oil changes!!! .. (Read post #659) .. The ONLY engine flush system to use is .. TO CHANGE THE OIL & FITER!! ... On NEW engines the SOONER the BETTER!!! ... you ARE flushing out the CONTAMINANTS by changing the oil!! .. By 3000 miles a lot of DAMAGE has already been done! ... No later than 500 miles for the first change and the second change at 1500 miles!! .. (Or sooner for me .. at 250, then at 750) .. On the fourth (4) change I started using a Synthetic Oil... KEEP IN MIND ... You can't expect to have a great high mileage engine ... years latter .. If you didn't break it in RIGHT from DAY ONE !!!
I've got quite a few high mileage engines under my belt and I don't buy into all that early oil change stuff.
Unless you're trying to get 400k miles out of the thing, the difference is likely so small you'll never know. IF you're planning to keep it a very long time, 3k miles is a good conservative number for the first change. If the filter plugs with wear metals in that short of period, buy the extended warranty because oil changes are the least of your worries.
I visited my dealer for replacement of the replacement seat heater button for the front passenger door as the original one had a burnt out light bulb at delivery and the replacement was scraped at the bottom, but they installed it anyhow. Unfortunately the second replacement was scraped too, so I asked dealer to order me yet another one. Apparently whoever is supplying these things isn't doing a very good job packing them (Lear? Delphi?). The front passenger door lock still does not work because the dealer had to pull the trim panel and it was replaced improperly when the button was replaced the first time. Over the weekend, I did not hear the clunking sound when starting in the morning so I am monitoring that. Still loving the Tahoe, though.
Early Oil Change .. A matter of personal pride & satisfaction! ... From my post #659 -- (very carefuly take the first oil filter apart and look at filter element and in the bottom of the filter can ... you will be amazed at the AMOUNT of metal & stuff that you can see ... just imagine what you can't see and it's in YOUR engine too!)-- ... Over the years I have cut open & check the used filters .. from the FIRST oil change of many engines,..(GM,F,DCX,& foreign).. Everyone had excessive amounts of STUFF! .. IMHO.. Nothing good for long engine life & performance!
I am guessing but when the dealer replace your door pandl the Lock rod was up. the rod must be down or lock. When the door pandl is put on. If the rod is up went you put the door pandl on it will bend the rod. look at the rod were the pastic cap fit on it. This is a very trick door pandl to take off and on
The dealership called. My Tahoe came in yesterday. I am picking it up this afternoon. I was given a build date of April 10th, so I was not expecting it so soon. Does anyone know how long it takes to build a car?
The excessive (define that please...) amounts of stuff is in the filters and magnets, right where it should be. I've tested first oil changes and they were well within spec at 3k miles. Those were vehicles I was planning to keep (and did) for 200k miles or more. Like I said, 3k miles is quite fine for the first oil change. I'm not arguing that changing the oil often/early is bad for the engine (it CAN'T be BAD) just excessive and wasteful. But if that's what it takes to give yourself some sort of satisfaction, that's another issue altogether. But the quesion is, does the vehicle require it? Depends on your circumstances, but probably not.
If your filter is PLUGGED in 3k miles because of wear metals, buy the extended warranty. The engine might make it past GM's 36k mile warranty, but probably not 100k.
We've had several GM trucks in our work fleet go close to 200k miles before we tossed them and the engines were fine with using the GM oil monitoring system. There's a lot of other things to worry about...but the engines aren't one of them.
Hey Stakeout, one time several years ago the manager was bugging me so in the "room of doom" that I got up and went outside. They had to shuttle paperwork out to me where I signed on the hood of a vehicle with no extras, no nothing as extra profit add-on.
In 2003 I bought a 2003 Explorer for my wife out of town in Charlotte, NC (to get a unit with the Ford safety canopy). The deal was a straight sale and the exact price and interest rate had been agreed to over the phone in advance. After a lot of b/s about football, etc. the finance guy rolled out his bag of tricks. I finally had to tell him to shut up and gave him a deadline of 15 minutes to have everything completed or we were out the door. That got his attention and no more sales pitch on all the extra stuff. Said he would get fired. Ha!
After seeing my dad rebuild new inline-6 Chevy engines after 25,000 miles back in the 1950s, I am satisfied that a typical GM or Ford V-8 pickup engine can/will go 200K without problems even changing the oil and filter at only 5,000 miles. I traded off my 1992 and 1995 Broncos with 175K + miles on the 5.8L engines. Neither required add oil between changes and both would start with a touch of the starter and hum like new after all these miles. Towed boats and trailers, used Broncos for vacation and hunting trips, lots of hard driving. Used both Motorcraft and Fram filters, various top brands of 10W-30 oil. Changed every 5,000 miles
My brother who is a couple years older and has owned auto parts stores for 30-40 says the above is due to the quality of modern automotive oils and increased quality of pistons, etc. Also obviously better manufacturing quality control, tolerances, etc. He says even the most basic mineral 10W-30 oil now is far superior to oils from the 50s and 60s. He often cites his 80s model Delta 88 V-8 with 93,000 miles that was torn down to retrieve some part that had been accidently dropped into the engine--the factory hone marks could still be seen on the cylinder walls after 93,000!
The biggest problem I have had with the first oil changes on 4.6L and 5.4L Ford engines is getting the gray Ford OEM filter off. In one case after breaking my favorite Ford filter wrench at home, I went to a Valvoline quick change and they couldn't move it either. Finally after 45 minutes or so and the manager crawling down in the pit to help, the guys got the OEM filter off. The Ford engine factory must put the OEM filter on by robot, impact wrench of something?
Just saw an interesting site on 8th Ave in New York City
While I was waiting on the corner I see a new black Tahoe LTZ go by, then another, then another.... about 50 of them in a line down the center of 8th Ave. ALl Black, all in the center lane parading as far as the eye can see I believe today is the preview day for the New York Auto Show only a few blocks away On a separate note, I was invited to preview the new Yukon at my dealer in NJ tonite. I'll let you know if I go Rich
I think about 4 weeks from order to shipping. Customer orders are build first. Over dealer invertory. When a tahoe comes off the [non-permissible content removed] line. It has a S sticker on the windshild. meaning a customer has order it. The tahoe with the S sticker is the first to get through the final process. Then how far you live from the factory were they are build. They are build in Wisconsin and Texas.
Anyone have any updates on if they are building any '07 Tahoes with these options? Mine has been on order for 8 weeks and dealer can't seem to find out anything. :mad:
Metal & debris in oil after the FIRST oil change --- (excessive (define that please...) --- Very easy .. compare NEW oil .. to the USED oil from the first oil change of a NEW engine. .. Only a person with his / hers eyes closed couldn't see the difference!! .... -- Again from my post #659 (very carefully take the first oil filter apart and look at filter element and in the bottom of the filter can ... you will be amazed at the AMOUNT of metal & stuff that you can see ... just imagine what you can't see and it's in YOUR engine too!) .... Have anyone cut open the FIRST filter from there new engine and inspected the oil & filter media? .. Do you think all that debris in the oil is good for your engine? .. ... If UNSEEN metal & contaminants were in a brand of NEW oil would you buy & use it?? .. I know I would NOT!! .. That is why it's so important (IMHO) to do low mileage inital oil change!
The Janesville wis. plant has been building Tahoes with nav/radio. I am guessing that they are haveing a supply problem in getting the Nav/radio to meet there deman. Again poor planding by gm in getting parts. :mad:
Are they putting the Nav/radio in both Yukons and Tahoes in Janesville, or just the Yukons? I ordered a Tahoe with the Nav/radio back in the early part of March and my vehicle has been on hold ever since. My dealer is located about a two hour drive from the Janesville plant, but evidently this does not make a difference in getting my vehicle built. My dealer has no Tahoes on the lot to sell me, so I think he was being straight with me about the status of my Tahoe.
Yes they are putting them in Tahoe/Yukons. and Denali. These trucks that are getting them now might have been order 4 or 5 month ago. all I can tell you for sure that they are haveing a supplyer problem. They wanted to put Janesville plant on overtime back in march. But can't because they can't get the parts to run the plant on overtime.
That is about right. I ordered March 17th and it got here April 12th. I live in Arkansas and my Tahoe was built in Texas.
I picked it up early this afternoon. Our salesman was great. He spent almost two hours showing me everything. I have only put 32 miles on it, but I think I am in love. I stopped by my father's house, my sister's home, and Mother's to show it off. They all think it is beautiful. Of course, since I am so proud of it, they wouldn't have said anything contrary. You gotta love family!
Comments
I'd worry more about how well a car was painted and if it had 'orange peel'..under that clear coat than I would about if it was sealed or not... I'm sure you know what it is.. a wavy ugly crackly looking paint job especially looking down the side of the car... put on a decent coat or two of NuFinish for $4.95 a bottle from Wally World and the paint is a-ok for a long long while..
if a dealer says he can't deliver the car without it or that 'it's already done and on it'..... bye bye.. get another sucker to pay for it.. used to be they did the 'undercaoating thingy'... then people caught on since the factory has basically been undercoating for a very long time.. more ADP..
and that's why dealers and car salesman get a bad rep...for using crapola tactics like that..
You don't know you've been suckered until your blood pressure returns to normal...
Gotta say I've got a terrific dealer with a great service department that didn't blow me off when the problem (early-on) was hard to duplicate.
Many times, when you find problems, it doesn't hurt to do an investigation for a TSB number. Google works if your good at describing the problem. Also, these forums are a good resourse too.
Why? When you visit your dealer, and you can give them a TSB reference, they aren't guessing about what needs to be done. The service techs don't always have the time to stay up to date on all the issues out there, and sometimes the descriptions of problems don't match up to TSB's when they do look for problems in the computer.
Dave
I also remember another post earlier where someone else was having this problem.
Supposedly, GM is aware of this...But was wondering if any fix was in place yet for this problem?
Another observation I made while there. A loaded SLT 4WD was $52,xxx and the Denali without nav was $50,xxx.
I picked up my '07 Escalade March 1, but have mixed Regular in it without hearing any pinging. The Owner's Manual says that the Premium is "recommended", but will tolerate Regular based on the computer's knock sensing system.
It $3.10 a gal for Premium here in Lake Tahoe.
As for the NAV, it is a "must have" goodie, especially with the backup camera.
Dave
Agree on the nav (have one in 2 cars now)and the back up camera.
I've noticed that when flipped up, and putting them back, it does require that the seat be firmly reset before the back-rests go up. However, over the last month, it's been getting more "broke-in". I'm thinking its just a matter of being new.
Dave
Thanks for anyones inside info. Esp. Sales pro's*
1) Misfitting for plastic piece that fits between the windshield and dash;
2) Rattle above the driver's head;
3) XM radio kits off, displays "Not Available" on radio, and then changes to standard FM radio channel;
4) Plastic "L" channel around the two back doors coming loose;
5) Engine has vibration or is making "growling" sound in 4 cyclinder mode;
6) Air escapes from around the two rear doors and around the rear seal on the rear window when fan and aux fan is on max or when I use the remote start.
While giving the dealer service guy my laundry list, he stated there is a service bulletin recall to update the HVAC computer control chip. (First I heard of that) They did not mention it last week when I had an oil change, so it must be new. Here is a list of what they did to the tahoe or what they told me. The list will be in the same order as my complaints.
1) They removed the plastic dash peice and refit it;
2) Headliner was improperly installed in the factory, they had to fix the insulation and reinstall it;
3) On going radio problem, GM is working on a firmware fix and will send out a service bulletin when they fix it;
4) Glued the top pieces back on, cross my fingers and hope that works LOL;
5) GM bulletin states that noise/vibration is normal and is to be expected. When the engine goes from 8 to 4 cylinders or vice versa, the harmonics change thus causing the vibration/growl noise. GM has no plans to fix it, basically told me to live with it;
6) Check it and stated that air escaping is normal due to overpressure in the interior of vehicle. According to dealership, all 12-14 other Tahoes on their lot do the same thing so it must be okay, I am going to revisit this at a later date, not happy with their answer.
No clue what the HVAC computer change did, but GM said to do it, so they did.
P.S. Before anyone asked my radio is a non-nav, Boses speaker, 6 disc changers with XM.
FYI: just had the HVAC computer recall completed last week. Dealer said the fix was needed because if the outside airtemp was at or below 32 degrees, the airconditioner/defrost wasn't allowed to start. After the reprogramming - now the A/C is allowed to work.
One of the things that I need to discuss is the Nav/Bose/Rear DVD system I have been told that it has the Bose Center Point Surround Sound and Digital Signal Processing but I have not been able to access it. I know how to access it but it's not there.I'm running out of people to call or ask.Any help would be appreciated.
Also when the transmission is in 4th gear and the torque converter clutch is engauged I feel a harsh vibration when the engine goes thru the rpm of 1200 to 1400. Speed does'nt matter its only in that rpm range.
I love driving it,think it's an exceptional veh
Thanks
Not to worry ... My 2000 Tahoe that I recently traded for the '07' Tahoe had NO significant corrosion or rusting problems! ... That included some time spent in the Snow & Salt of upstate NY.
Unless you're trying to get 400k miles out of the thing, the difference is likely so small you'll never know. IF you're planning to keep it a very long time, 3k miles is a good conservative number for the first change. If the filter plugs with wear metals in that short of period, buy the extended warranty because oil changes are the least of your worries.
From my post #659 -- (very carefuly take the first oil filter apart and look at filter element and in the bottom of the filter can ... you will be amazed at the AMOUNT of metal & stuff that you can see ... just imagine what you can't see and it's in YOUR engine too!)--
... Over the years I have cut open & check the used filters .. from the FIRST oil change of many engines,..(GM,F,DCX,& foreign).. Everyone had excessive amounts of STUFF! .. IMHO.. Nothing good for long engine life & performance!
Steve, Host
If your filter is PLUGGED in 3k miles because of wear metals, buy the extended warranty. The engine might make it past GM's 36k mile warranty, but probably not 100k.
We've had several GM trucks in our work fleet go close to 200k miles before we tossed them and the engines were fine with using the GM oil monitoring system. There's a lot of other things to worry about...but the engines aren't one of them.
In 2003 I bought a 2003 Explorer for my wife out of town in Charlotte, NC (to get a unit with the Ford safety canopy). The deal was a straight sale and the exact price and interest rate had been agreed to over the phone in advance. After a lot of b/s about football, etc. the finance guy rolled out his bag of tricks. I finally had to tell him to shut up and gave him a deadline of 15 minutes to have everything completed or we were out the door. That got his attention and no more sales pitch on all the extra stuff. Said he would get fired. Ha!
My brother who is a couple years older and has owned auto parts stores for 30-40 says the above is due to the quality of modern automotive oils and increased quality of pistons, etc. Also obviously better manufacturing quality control, tolerances, etc. He says even the most basic mineral 10W-30 oil now is far superior to oils from the 50s and 60s. He often cites his 80s model Delta 88 V-8 with 93,000 miles that was torn down to retrieve some part that had been accidently dropped into the engine--the factory hone marks could still be seen on the cylinder walls after 93,000!
The biggest problem I have had with the first oil changes on 4.6L and 5.4L Ford engines is getting the gray Ford OEM filter off. In one case after breaking my favorite Ford filter wrench at home, I went to a Valvoline quick change and they couldn't move it either. Finally after 45 minutes or so and the manager crawling down in the pit to help, the guys got the OEM filter off. The Ford engine factory must put the OEM filter on by robot, impact wrench of something?
While I was waiting on the corner I see a new black Tahoe LTZ go by, then another, then another.... about 50 of them in a line down the center of 8th Ave. ALl Black, all in the center lane parading as far as the eye can see
I believe today is the preview day for the New York Auto Show only a few blocks away
On a separate note, I was invited to preview the new Yukon at my dealer in NJ tonite. I'll let you know if I go
Rich
....
-- Again from my post #659 (very carefully take the first oil filter apart and look at filter element and in the bottom of the filter can ... you will be amazed at the AMOUNT of metal & stuff that you can see ... just imagine what you can't see and it's in YOUR engine too!)
....
Have anyone cut open the FIRST filter from there new engine and inspected the oil & filter media? .. Do you think all that debris in the oil is good for your engine? ..
...
If UNSEEN metal & contaminants were in a brand of NEW oil would you buy & use it?? .. I know I would NOT!! .. That is why it's so important (IMHO) to do low mileage inital oil change!
I picked it up early this afternoon. Our salesman was great. He spent almost two hours showing me everything. I have only put 32 miles on it, but I think I am in love. I stopped by my father's house, my sister's home, and Mother's to show it off. They all think it is beautiful. Of course, since I am so proud of it, they wouldn't have said anything contrary. You gotta love family!