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Comments
I'd planned on superglueing another small piece of plastic about a half-inch thick to the top bracket to pull it tighter to the bumper.
So this may work after all.
I see the problem and why the top isn't engaging properly.
The bottom holes are definitely not the problem. Only one place they can go with the cover aligning with the bumper edge.
The top tabs engage into the square key slot brackets that are push-clipped to the bumper top. This may be the locations that are drilled and located improperly on the template.
The bracket has an identical square key slot 7/8" behind the one you can see. So there are two locations where the tab holder could engage the bracket.
Explains why the first slot leaves the cover approx 1" from the bumper. Problem is... my cover will not push in far enough to engage the second (rear) key slot. It cant be off by much, I think less than 1/8".
Not sure what the solution is, YET. Not a good design, there is no adjustability anywhere to allow for plastic tolerances.
Any electrical problems? Chevy had to buy my 2003 Tahoe back as they could not fix a no start problem in the computer.
If you're driving a Lexus, etc., where Premium is recommended or required, use it. If you're driving an un-modded Tahoe, you're a complete idiot to use anything BUT 87
...
My cover has been on the Tahoe for about two months .. and I have had no trouble with it and the fit to the bumper is snug & tight!
The logical solution is to move the bracket closer to the bumper edge so the top tabs can engage the rear key slots. Means more holes
I thought I had installed it wrong. But I kept messing around with it and if when pushing it over to the left to engage the tabs, you pull the bottom back towards you, it will put the tabs at just the right angle to clip in and engage snuggly against bumper.
Try that, it worked for me.
I read somewhere that GM has stated that the trucks transmission needs a final calibration. Anybody got any takes on this?
$42,987
Where is a good site for wholesale yukon accessories?
Thank You !!!!
Someone (Tahoe Owner) told me that the m ileage should improve as the engine breaks in for the first 3 -4 weeks. I had my doubts but he was right.
I bought my 07 Tahoe on 3.30.06, the first week was ~ 14.2 mpg which I was a little worried. As of today, I am seeing 15.5 which is becoming encourage. I do about 60% city 40% highway. I expected it to get "a little better".
I am actually getting better mpg than my 99 Explorer 6 cyl which was posted as 15/20 and was getting ~ 14 mpg before I retired it.
To give you an idea, I placed an order on 2.18.06 and was not picked as of 3.30.06. :mad: I too, orederd the NAV, Rear view camera and DVD.
The NAV and rear view camera were "constraint" being back order or those pieces need to be redesigned.
So, I stopped the order and bought another one of another dealer. I had to sacrafice the full bench rear seats for captain's chairs. But got the other items I wanted.
There is a website that shows the contraints and it showed the NAV and Camera delayed. NOT GOOD. I heard that it is delayed till the Summer.
However, I LOVE my Tahoe. If you can wait or get one off the lot, it is worth the wait. The looks and commnets are never ending. They are impressed what GM is doing.
The available Z71 Off-Road package (available later in 2006) includes a specifically designed three-piece fascia with a protective, platinum chrome skid plate. It has larger tow hook openings; larger, more prominent fog lamps; and specific grille texture and platinum chrome grille trim. Eighteen-inch wheels and tires also are part of the Off-Road package.
The new Tahoe offers additional 18 mm of ground clearance. The Autotrac electronic transfer case is standard on all 4WD Tahoe.
Here's a pic of the gap:
Has anyone else noticed any gaps in the tail light lens and body on their trucks or the air escaping from the windows???
I've always wondered where the air went out. guess I know now.
--jay
Anyone know for sure?
tidester, host
It's in this months issue, which includes the McGaughys 2007 Tahoe lowering kit install "how to".
Dave
With these modern engines, the engine modules are constantly trying to advance the ignition to get the most out of whatever fuel you are using. Then, when some preignition is detected, it backs the timing off a bit to avoid the pinging.
By running high octane fuel, you get the most out of your engine both in performance and efficiency. Problem is, it is not hardly enough to notice unless you do some very careful and elaborate testing. And it is not enough to justify the higher cost.
So, if you are looking to save $$, the best bet is run the lowest octane that your engine will let you get away with. Then take it easy on the throttle if there is any hint of pinging. The pinging is not good for the engine.
If your goal is to beat the other guy away from the stoplight, go with the highest octane. You will have a few more ponies but less dollars to spend on beer.
But yeah, none of that "special" after-the-fact paint sealant for me; and especially for as much as some dealers offer it for...if I had to choose between spending that much money on paint sealant vs. allocating it towards an extended warranty (not that one would necessarily need to get one)...the choice is obvious.
Not to say that CAIs are a complete waste of money, but don't get too swayed by those HP-gain figures...like I said, they represent max gain at a particular point in the powerband.