I'm not sure I can explain this in words (I could draw a picture tho) but will try. The top brackets (connected to the bumper) have a square key slot that hold the top of the cover in place. Seems to me, the raised part of the tabs need to be closer to the cover, so the top part of the cover is held closer to the bumper. I'm thinking about gluing a small stop on the upper tabs. Moving the lower holes doesnt seem right. In terms of a radius, I would think that would pull the top of the cover further away from the bumper
Now that I'm home and can see the truck and the color keyed flapper.........
I see the problem and why the top isn't engaging properly.
The bottom holes are definitely not the problem. Only one place they can go with the cover aligning with the bumper edge.
The top tabs engage into the square key slot brackets that are push-clipped to the bumper top. This may be the locations that are drilled and located improperly on the template.
The bracket has an identical square key slot 7/8" behind the one you can see. So there are two locations where the tab holder could engage the bracket.
Explains why the first slot leaves the cover approx 1" from the bumper. Problem is... my cover will not push in far enough to engage the second (rear) key slot. It cant be off by much, I think less than 1/8".
Not sure what the solution is, YET. Not a good design, there is no adjustability anywhere to allow for plastic tolerances.
Just ordered a new 2007 LTZ (loaded) to replace my 2004 LT, it is 4-6 weeks out, does any one have any real world mileage experience yet? How close is the window sticker 15 – 21 MPG. Are you running 87 – 89 – 93 octane ? Any electrical problems? Chevy had to buy my 2003 Tahoe back as they could not fix a no start problem in the computer.
Pretty simple...higher grades of gas actually have less energy in them, and when put in a vehicle MADE to run on 87 only, it has to burn more to make the same power level.
If you're driving a Lexus, etc., where Premium is recommended or required, use it. If you're driving an un-modded Tahoe, you're a complete idiot to use anything BUT 87
Did your dealer mention anything about availability of nav/radios, rear cameras, and 20" wheels? Mine doesn't have any info when any of these will be available.
He did state that there was a problem with availability of the NAV radio; however he stated that it was a very short term issue. He did not mention 20 in wheels or rear camera.
I have 2007 Tahoe LT2 4X4, City 15, Mixed 17 and 19 Highway. I run on 87 octane, no idle or pinging problems. I have 3,300 miles, so far. I just had a problem with an EBCM module which shorted out causing my stabilitrack to be disabled automatically. I have had 4 fit and finish and a radio problem on a non-nav radio. All items have been repaired/replaced by dealer except the radio problem which is waiting on a fix from GM. Since I purchased my Tahoe on 1-25-06, it has been in the shop a total of 6 days. Three of those days were idle days waiting for a EBCM to come from the factory because there are no parts in the system. I still love my Tahoe, it is a top notch vehicle and I attribute most of my problems to being the first year/first run. Would I buy the same suv knowing what I know now? OH YEAH! Hope that helps you.
Go back to Post #657 & 658 .. that might help everyone to install their Fascia cover. .. I had no troble installing it when I taped the bracket to the bumper instead of using the template .. Note: that cutout on the bracket also lines up with cutout on the plastic bumper. ... My cover has been on the Tahoe for about two months .. and I have had no trouble with it and the fit to the bumper is snug & tight!
OK, thanks for the reply. Thing is, I didnt install mine, the dealer did. Seems odd that several others have the same issues. I'm not sure how I would fix it and I'm not sure the dealer is qualified to fix it since they couldn't install it correctly and said it was.
The logical solution is to move the bracket closer to the bumper edge so the top tabs can engage the rear key slots. Means more holes
A Possible FIX -- Position the bracket at the correct location on the bumper and holding it temporary with 'Duct tape' ... then redrill the holes for the plastic push pins in the correct locations ... or if the NEW holes are to close to the OLD holes (and/or) won't hold the bracket securely with the push pins .... I would try using a few 3/16 inch 'pop rivets' where you have clearance. (I did and it worked great) .. Keep in mind .. the bracket should normally never have to come off the bumper and it's more secure that way!
I installed the rear facia myself and when I went to put it on, the left bracket would not engage and was bending when I pushed it over.
I thought I had installed it wrong. But I kept messing around with it and if when pushing it over to the left to engage the tabs, you pull the bottom back towards you, it will put the tabs at just the right angle to clip in and engage snuggly against bumper.
I have been driving my LTZ 4x4 for 2 weeks now and the mileage is getting worse! I have been really light with the foot too. I was getting 14mpg but now i am down to 12mpg. I read somewhere that GM has stated that the trucks transmission needs a final calibration. Anybody got any takes on this?
I do not know of any transmission calibration, however both the computer and odometer need to be calibrated to the tire diameter, and final gearing. Are you running 373's or 410's in the rear-end ? Have you changed tire or wheel size? Are you sure the truck is shifting out of the 4X4 mode, running in the automatic setting will reduce MPG also.
Here is a trick I have successfully used for years, Before I leave the dealership, I attach a large strong magnet to the oil filter to trap exactly what you are referring to, I drive 750-1000 miles then perform the first oil change.. Change the oil again when the truck reaches 2500 miles and again at the 5000 mile point. At 5000 miles the truck is broken in, the rings are seated, and I switch to a full synthetic oil, I use Mobile 1.
Well, not really sure. On Jan 21st, I opened my mail and I received a full size brochure with a $1500 off coupon in the mail that said private sale or some such thing. Guess GM marketing knew me better than I knew myself. I was happy with my 2005 Avalanche 1500 LT 4x4 and a 2005 Crown Vic LX. Normally wife and I have 1 car & 1 truck, seems to work well for us. So,I saw the ad and threw it in the trash can. My wife saw the ad in the trash can and said let's go look at one. Next thing, I know...4 days later....2007 Tahoe and no Avalanche. Only thing I can guess is that we purchased a new vehicle each year for the last 5 or 6 years. Whoever is doing GM marketing saw this and assumed I would be open to another new truck. Who knows....
Here is a trick .... I also have been using magnets for decades ... BUT .. Keep in mind .. It only picks up ferrous metals .. NO dirt & crud, non-ferous metals and harmful combustion by-products! ... Another way to look at oil changes is that you are doing an engine flush .. getting rid of ALL the contaminants the magnets & filters can't pickup & hold.
I run regular in my LT-3 with 3500 miles. It is getting average 16.9 in mixed driving but on a 200 mile highway trip I did indeed hit 21.8!! Very light right foot and lots of V4 action.
Hey Does Anybody Know How To Replace The Bulbs For The Headlamp , I Am Trying To Install The Hyper White Bulbs, But I Haven't Got The Slightest Idea On How To Do It
I reset my DIC each fuel fill up, then average them based on driving conditions during that round of driving, either mixed, highway or city. Highway reading was taken during a recent trip which was based off of my DIC reading both there and back. Reset at the beginning and end of trip. Most accurate reading is the mixed because that is based on weekly commute then averaged. Both city and mixed include some amount of idle time. City driving is based on one week total while off on vacation never got on a highway that week. Hope that helps.
I saw this recommended somewhere very recently. I asked my dealer about it and he agreed it was probably a good idea, especially if you are going to use an orbital buffer.
Howdy. For those of you who have ordered your Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban: What was the time between placing your order and delivery? Has anybody ordered one of these trucks with the nav radio and taken delivery yet? Does anybody have any complaints about their nav system? Thanks.
I Am running 410s and have not changed the stock 20s. I have had the truck in 2w high during the city driving. I am not sure if the truck is stuck in 4x4 mode. I have contacted the dealer and they told me that I should be getting at worst 14mpg. I am running regular unleaded 87. Maybe I should let her break in for another 1000. can anyone else tell me their mpg on the 4x4 LTZ city?
Just be aware that you need to actually do the math on several tankfuls to get an idea of the DIC accuracy. My '02 TrailBlazer DIC reads about 1-1.5 MPG high. Still waiting on the '07. Hope they can get those 20" wheels. My dealer said they now have about 100 nav/radios and rear cameras nationwide.
you defiantly have a problem, the 410’s will bring the MPG down a little, but you should be in the 15-16 range in the city. My 14 with the same engine (less the DOD electronic control) consistently gets 15-16 city – 17-18 highway depending on load and wind. Take her back.
When did you order yours? P placed my order 2 weeks ago. I heard that the nav radios were delayed, did not hear anything about the rear camera or 20 in wheels. Mine has all 3 options. how long have you been waiting, what is the ETA?
Someone (Tahoe Owner) told me that the m ileage should improve as the engine breaks in for the first 3 -4 weeks. I had my doubts but he was right.
I bought my 07 Tahoe on 3.30.06, the first week was ~ 14.2 mpg which I was a little worried. As of today, I am seeing 15.5 which is becoming encourage. I do about 60% city 40% highway. I expected it to get "a little better".
I am actually getting better mpg than my 99 Explorer 6 cyl which was posted as 15/20 and was getting ~ 14 mpg before I retired it.
To give you an idea, I placed an order on 2.18.06 and was not picked as of 3.30.06. :mad: I too, orederd the NAV, Rear view camera and DVD.
The NAV and rear view camera were "constraint" being back order or those pieces need to be redesigned.
So, I stopped the order and bought another one of another dealer. I had to sacrafice the full bench rear seats for captain's chairs. But got the other items I wanted.
There is a website that shows the contraints and it showed the NAV and Camera delayed. NOT GOOD. I heard that it is delayed till the Summer.
However, I LOVE my Tahoe. If you can wait or get one off the lot, it is worth the wait. The looks and commnets are never ending. They are impressed what GM is doing.
Z71 not LTZ I just found this info at www.ameinfo.com/73994.html
The available Z71 Off-Road package (available later in 2006) includes a specifically designed three-piece fascia with a protective, platinum chrome skid plate. It has larger tow hook openings; larger, more prominent fog lamps; and specific grille texture and platinum chrome grille trim. Eighteen-inch wheels and tires also are part of the Off-Road package.
The new Tahoe offers additional 18 mm of ground clearance. The Autotrac electronic transfer case is standard on all 4WD Tahoe.
I used my remote start this afternoon as we were leaving church to get my LTZ cooled down before we got in it. However, as I approached the rear of the vehicle I noticed that the left tail light lens has about a half to 3/4 inch gap between it and the body. It's the top part of the lens that has this gap...And the right side lens fits snug/flush against the body. While investigating this gap, I noticed quite a bit of air leaking or coming out of the rear window too.
Here's a pic of the gap:
Has anyone else noticed any gaps in the tail light lens and body on their trucks or the air escaping from the windows???
Ordered on 2-17 and was supposed to be built 3-20. On 3-27, I found out about the nav/radios and camera shortages. On 4-21, dealer was informed about the 20" wheels. No ETA on more wheels or additional radios and cameras. But until they get more wheels, mine won't be built as not even a delete option on the LTZ. :mad:
I dont know the brand but if u go to Ebay and type in 2007 Tahoe in the search, its the billet grille for $76. Its high quality Aluminum and it looks fantastic. I get a lot of compliments on it. I never recommend any product but this one is really nice. Its clean and not over whelming. Really dresses the front up but doeasnt over power.
There are definitely shortages. I placed my order for an Avalanche LTZ w/nav and rear camera early this month. I received a call on Friday asking if I'd like to delete the nav & cam, because that would increase the odds of it being built soon. I'm holding out, but they couldn't say exactly how long the wait might be. The salesman did say something about the "Denalis getting most of them right now" though.
I don't have the gap problem. I have noticed the air escaping on both rear doors and around the rear window during remote start and when I fan speed is set to max. Dealership had no idea if this was normal so they checked the other 20 tahoes on the lot and they did the same thing. Dealer told me it must be designed that way or it wouldn't happen on all of them. Wish I knew...
If you don't have the system set to recirculate, where does the air go? It has to leak out some where or blow-up like a balloon. Even on re-circulate I bet some fresh air is brought in.
I've always wondered where the air went out. guess I know now.
93 octane is a total waste of money, not just because it cost more, but because your tahoe wont run as well. The higher the octane the, the lower the energy the gas has. High octane gas us used to slow down the ignition in your cylinders. The slower the ignition the less power you have. The reason high end cars require high octane is because the run at a higher compression ratio and a quicker ignition will damage the pistons and rings. The higher octane is used to prevent detonation.
I don't have any experience with Cold Air Intakes but my understanding of them is that you can achieve improved mileage only if you do not use the enhanced horsepower they are supposed to provide.
If you believe "Truckin" magazine, they took a 2007 Tahoe, with the 5.3 engine, and achieved increased HP on the Dyno. Sorry, don't have the numbers with me, but it was double digits.
It's in this months issue, which includes the McGaughys 2007 Tahoe lowering kit install "how to".
I'm curious about the AEM intake. Although my '07 is better than the '00 was power-wise, it still could stand a little more pep. Does anyone know of any custom ECM's or programmers available for the 2007 models yet?
Hold the phone there Mr. Bodi. You are exactly right about the higher octane being needed for higher compression ratio, but your off track a little with the "slowing down the ignition" bit. The higher octane actually delays the ignition rather than slow it down. High octane fuel does not have less energy than low octane. The purpose of delaying the ignition is to avoid any pre-ignition that causes pinging.
With these modern engines, the engine modules are constantly trying to advance the ignition to get the most out of whatever fuel you are using. Then, when some preignition is detected, it backs the timing off a bit to avoid the pinging.
By running high octane fuel, you get the most out of your engine both in performance and efficiency. Problem is, it is not hardly enough to notice unless you do some very careful and elaborate testing. And it is not enough to justify the higher cost.
So, if you are looking to save $$, the best bet is run the lowest octane that your engine will let you get away with. Then take it easy on the throttle if there is any hint of pinging. The pinging is not good for the engine.
If your goal is to beat the other guy away from the stoplight, go with the highest octane. You will have a few more ponies but less dollars to spend on beer.
How true!!! Just like in the old days--before car manufacturers started to offer "real" vehicle start immobilizers, they were pushing that Loctronics cr*p. Heck, my brother (he runs an auto accessories shop) told me of how he was able to get one of his customers--who was there to get an aftermarket alarm installed in her vehicle--to make the dealer give her a refund on the Loctronics that was installed in her vehicle by instructing her to show the dealer how easy it was to bypass it w/ just a paperclip, thus negating the need for that "special" Loctronics chip you had to stick in the unit before starting the vehicle.
But yeah, none of that "special" after-the-fact paint sealant for me; and especially for as much as some dealers offer it for...if I had to choose between spending that much money on paint sealant vs. allocating it towards an extended warranty (not that one would necessarily need to get one)...the choice is obvious.
Keep in mind that when such numbers are posted, they're typically max HP figures...rather than the gain across the entire powerband. Example--a CAI w/ an "advertised" HP gain of say, 10 HP...what the manufacturer more often than not won't tell you up front is that that 10 HP gain was at a particular engine rpm--usually in the higher limits (relatively speaking, depending on engine redline). Many of these CAIs--and other aftermarket automotive performance products--will not produce those high-number gains where it really matters most...in the 2000-3000 rpm range. Wouldn't be surprised if the HP gains in the 2000-rpm band amount to maybe 3-4 HP at most. Think about it--how many consumer-oriented (i.e., street-legal) CAIs can produce dyno-proven high double-digit HP gains from 0-to-redline? NONE!!!!!
Not to say that CAIs are a complete waste of money, but don't get too swayed by those HP-gain figures...like I said, they represent max gain at a particular point in the powerband.
Comments
I'd planned on superglueing another small piece of plastic about a half-inch thick to the top bracket to pull it tighter to the bumper.
So this may work after all.
I see the problem and why the top isn't engaging properly.
The bottom holes are definitely not the problem. Only one place they can go with the cover aligning with the bumper edge.
The top tabs engage into the square key slot brackets that are push-clipped to the bumper top. This may be the locations that are drilled and located improperly on the template.
The bracket has an identical square key slot 7/8" behind the one you can see. So there are two locations where the tab holder could engage the bracket.
Explains why the first slot leaves the cover approx 1" from the bumper. Problem is... my cover will not push in far enough to engage the second (rear) key slot. It cant be off by much, I think less than 1/8".
Not sure what the solution is, YET. Not a good design, there is no adjustability anywhere to allow for plastic tolerances.
Any electrical problems? Chevy had to buy my 2003 Tahoe back as they could not fix a no start problem in the computer.
If you're driving a Lexus, etc., where Premium is recommended or required, use it. If you're driving an un-modded Tahoe, you're a complete idiot to use anything BUT 87
...
My cover has been on the Tahoe for about two months .. and I have had no trouble with it and the fit to the bumper is snug & tight!
The logical solution is to move the bracket closer to the bumper edge so the top tabs can engage the rear key slots. Means more holes
I thought I had installed it wrong. But I kept messing around with it and if when pushing it over to the left to engage the tabs, you pull the bottom back towards you, it will put the tabs at just the right angle to clip in and engage snuggly against bumper.
Try that, it worked for me.
I read somewhere that GM has stated that the trucks transmission needs a final calibration. Anybody got any takes on this?
$42,987
Where is a good site for wholesale yukon accessories?
Thank You !!!!
Someone (Tahoe Owner) told me that the m ileage should improve as the engine breaks in for the first 3 -4 weeks. I had my doubts but he was right.
I bought my 07 Tahoe on 3.30.06, the first week was ~ 14.2 mpg which I was a little worried. As of today, I am seeing 15.5 which is becoming encourage. I do about 60% city 40% highway. I expected it to get "a little better".
I am actually getting better mpg than my 99 Explorer 6 cyl which was posted as 15/20 and was getting ~ 14 mpg before I retired it.
To give you an idea, I placed an order on 2.18.06 and was not picked as of 3.30.06. :mad: I too, orederd the NAV, Rear view camera and DVD.
The NAV and rear view camera were "constraint" being back order or those pieces need to be redesigned.
So, I stopped the order and bought another one of another dealer. I had to sacrafice the full bench rear seats for captain's chairs. But got the other items I wanted.
There is a website that shows the contraints and it showed the NAV and Camera delayed. NOT GOOD. I heard that it is delayed till the Summer.
However, I LOVE my Tahoe. If you can wait or get one off the lot, it is worth the wait. The looks and commnets are never ending. They are impressed what GM is doing.
The available Z71 Off-Road package (available later in 2006) includes a specifically designed three-piece fascia with a protective, platinum chrome skid plate. It has larger tow hook openings; larger, more prominent fog lamps; and specific grille texture and platinum chrome grille trim. Eighteen-inch wheels and tires also are part of the Off-Road package.
The new Tahoe offers additional 18 mm of ground clearance. The Autotrac electronic transfer case is standard on all 4WD Tahoe.
Here's a pic of the gap:
Has anyone else noticed any gaps in the tail light lens and body on their trucks or the air escaping from the windows???
I've always wondered where the air went out. guess I know now.
--jay
Anyone know for sure?
tidester, host
It's in this months issue, which includes the McGaughys 2007 Tahoe lowering kit install "how to".
Dave
With these modern engines, the engine modules are constantly trying to advance the ignition to get the most out of whatever fuel you are using. Then, when some preignition is detected, it backs the timing off a bit to avoid the pinging.
By running high octane fuel, you get the most out of your engine both in performance and efficiency. Problem is, it is not hardly enough to notice unless you do some very careful and elaborate testing. And it is not enough to justify the higher cost.
So, if you are looking to save $$, the best bet is run the lowest octane that your engine will let you get away with. Then take it easy on the throttle if there is any hint of pinging. The pinging is not good for the engine.
If your goal is to beat the other guy away from the stoplight, go with the highest octane. You will have a few more ponies but less dollars to spend on beer.
But yeah, none of that "special" after-the-fact paint sealant for me; and especially for as much as some dealers offer it for...if I had to choose between spending that much money on paint sealant vs. allocating it towards an extended warranty (not that one would necessarily need to get one)...the choice is obvious.
Not to say that CAIs are a complete waste of money, but don't get too swayed by those HP-gain figures...like I said, they represent max gain at a particular point in the powerband.