Took my heaviest rear-ending to date at a stop light from a telephone company service truck 09/2009. Had to drive 8 hours to home & everytime I had to get off the interstate I was greeted by creaking & squeaking from the tail end being most noticable at parking lot speeds. However i can also hear it cruising down a stretch of good highway, as well as when i climb in & out of the car. When i brought it to the body shop I made it clear that I was more concerned about mechanical than cosmetic damage. A few days later they called & said they checked the rear suspension & found everything in order. Not! When i picked it up you guessed it. So they suggest taking it to "xyz" alignment shop. He test drove it, lifted it, tightened a nut and, get this, lubricated "it." how or where he lubed "it", given the design, i can't imagine. Needless to say I'm still living with it, pondering the hit I'll take at trade-in time, or private sale time. Contacted insurance four days ago who said take it where ever & we'll have a progressive rep there with you. So the question is might I be better off taking it to the Honda dealer since the specialty alignment shop was clueless. Apologies for the lengthy missive. Any ideas, advice greatly appreciated. Thank you. Dennis
I, personally, would take it to the dealer. In my area the labor rate at the dealer that I go to is about the same as the local private repair facility. I've gotten the little work that I've had to do, minor maintenance, at the dealer and haven't spent any more than I was quoted for similar work at a private shop.
After all who knows a Honda better than Honda trained technicians? For instance, as a side note, when I ask about whether private shops whether it's necessary to use Honda transmission fluid versus "regular" and they say it's unnecessary. I've read enough on various sites to know that's not right.
Anyway long story short I'd take it to the dealer. Having a long post is not a problem. The more information people have the better they are able to help you.
turning. Brought the car in for 75K mile service. And mentioned the TSB for the inlet O-ring at P/S pump to remedy the P/S moaning.
Dealer noticed the moaning noise was still loud after replacing the O-ring. So they replaced the pump & fluid reservoir and flushed the system. The noise was reduced but still loud. So they ordered another pump overnight. After 2nd pump replacement the noise is almost gone. I can notice a big noise reduction in a moaning noise now. Thank you Bernardi!!
I think it's a characteristic of Honda P/S system because when I googled the issue, there are plenty of them out there.
All work was done under EW with 5 days left. I guess with the replacement of ABS/VSA modulator, brake switch, and P/S pump, the EW is paid for.
I also own an 03 EX V6, and I have never heard any noise from my power steering. Not all of them do this, so it can be fixed. I would continue to push them, till they fix it right. There are some incompetent mechanics out there. Most owners say the O-ring fixed the issue.
There is a little noise left when I steer the wheel. They said if the noise gets louder, bring it back and they will check the line & rack pressure. Will keep my ear for the noise in the next couple days.
The previous noise was much louder & didn't bother me much. Just wanted to check have a couple TSBs checked out before my EW is going to expire in a week. Turned out they gave me a new reservoir, a P/S pump (needed to replace twice), a new pulley, and a complete flush.
Did not remove the bumper. Went in through the top, with the grill and top plastic piece removed. Had to remove the grill, to put the expanded metal on it anyway. The expanded metal parts, on the grill, were attached using glue-tape, and the bottom is held in place with two tie-wraps.
Need help with a puzzling problem on my 2006 Accord – Maybe the car experts might have some solutions: In cold weather, when it is actively snowing, the car will jerk or hesitate when accelerating. It feels like someone applied the brakes for an instant. This happens once in a while, say from 30 seconds to 30 minutes apart, and only when it is snowing. I have no problem in the summer even when it is raining. The car will lurch in any gear when accelerating but does not jerk when coasting. I am not spinning the tires or losing traction, it can happen on level dry ground (no snow accumulation). The window defrost is off (e.g. heat to feet only, so it is not the AC), rear defog off. The engine could be hot or cold, it does not make any difference. There is no engine trouble light, no flash of any of the dashboard lights, and no codes, Honda replaced the ABS brake modulator but that did not make any difference. I asked the dealership to check with Honda engineering but they did not have any ideas. The car is a 5 speed manual so it is not a poorly shifting automatic transmission. Specs: Accord SE, 4 cyl, manual, no modifications. This model does not have traction control.
This might be a clue or a completely different issue – any time of the year, the car has an uneven acceleration when the engine is cold. It goes away when the engine warms up.
This is only a guess, but if you have "drive-by-wire", have you ever had the throttle-body cleaned? Was the EGR system checked, by the dealership? That's all this shade-tree mechanic can think of at the moment. Good luck
had the 2005 in for an oil change today, so I complained about the squeaky clutch linkage again (the clutch master cylinder was replaced a couple of years ago). Service dude disappeared into the footwell with a can of spray lube, and seems to have eliminated the noise.
so, no need to haggle with them about another new MS (since I am out of warranty now), and the massively annoyning (but functionally irrelevant!) noise is gone.
If it comes back soon, I will request that they dig deeper int the problem. Or just buy myself a spray can!
Wasn't there a tech report from Honda that said the Master Cylinder should be replaced because of a squeak? I replaced mine for this reason a couple of years ago. Although the new MC took care of the squeak, it returned months after I changed it out. There was no way I wanted to replace that thing again so I squirted some WD40 into the cylinder (where the plunger of the clutch linkage pushes into the MC) of the MC and that took care of it, no more squeaking. It's been about a year now and still no squeaking.
I had a new MC too about 2 years ago. I believe what the service advisor (never even made it back into the shop, this was the guy writing me up) was the same basic thing, he lubed the shaft that went into the MC. If it starts squeaking again, I wil just get it all lubed up.
swung by wally world today to get anew everstart battery in the Accord (it failed the load test yesterday when I had the oil change). Not tremendously more powerful than OEM (not sure why they don't make a big honking Maxx version for this car), but certainly cranks better now. And I can reasonably expect it to start after sitting outside all day in the cold (it was a crapshoot last winter!)
This would have been the 5th winter on the original, and no way I was chancing that.
I have a 03 Honda Accord EX V6 coupe. Suddenly, the A/C, Heater and defroster stopped working. Since I am having GREAT difficulties getting Steven creek Honda in San Jose to address the issue (dealerships are crooks). They stated it was a relay, but won't tell me which one. I am lucky I love working on cars and will just fix it myself.. My question: Is it a relay under the hood or the blower motor relay???? Both are easy to change. I need to get it working before Wed.... leaving for Thanksgiving and not really looking to the trip without defrosters and heat.
I know it's hard to believe, but you may have a weak battery, causing communication errors with the MICU. Try disconnecting the battery, and retry the A/C. Hope you have the radio code.
Sounds like the blow motor relay. You can do the continuity test between the terminals. Or you can swap with the rear window defrost relay and see if the problem goes away. I think they are the same relays.
You probably made a good choice. I know I finally replaced my battery, which was an original (the car is an 03). I had issues with it all last year. It was testing fairly well all winter, but it was always kind of iffy especially when we got subzero temperatures. In MN they're fairly common.
I know I replaced my battery with a Walmart battery, and have never had an issue with them.
Please i need your helps ASAP. I need to know where the engine number for the 2003 accord is located. Also Can someone tell me how many digits/numbers they are for the engine number. Thanks. TL
I had my oil changed today at 30k and when I went to pay the service advisor told me that my battery had failed the load test and they replaced it for free. A girl ahead of me was told the same thing by her service advisor but he had to check about the warranty. I thought it strange that they did not prorate the battery but I am not complaining. Is this unusual or has it happened to anyone else? By the way, I love my accord and think this 07 model may be the best one built to date.
No comment on battery, mine's still good in '07 Accord SE, but your comment about '07 best ever caught my eye. I agree. I went from a '94 Mercedes C280 to an '04 Civic EX to my present Accord, all bought new. I like the 4-cylinder automatic '07 Accord, the interior and exterior looks as well as to drive it . No issues, good gas mileage just under 28 mpg combined; good steering, good throttle response, seamless transmission.
I've noticed lately that the light is always on in the glove box when the I have the lights on the outside of the car lit up. I don't think this light was always on before. Is there something I should do which can turn the light in the glove box off?
The light does come on when the headlights are turned on. I do recall earlier complaints for owners seeing light coming from around the glove box door. The solution from the dealer (and my 04 has the fix) was to add a strip of black foam along the top edge of the glove box to block the light. There may have been a TSB posted for the fix.
04 Honda accord V6, runs great, 2nd time this light came on in 2 weeks, car seems to run fine and it comes on only in the middle of driving, goes away when turning car off.....No service manual came with car when I bought it, 64,000 miles. Thanks for any help
You might want to do an internet search on this"!" light thing. I think there were some problems, and maybe a TSB on wheel speed sensors causing something like this. Have you been doing anything in the wheel-wells lately? (brakes, wheels etc.) Maybe check the wires and connections to the sensors. I don't know if the brake pedal position switch could cause this light, but check to see if your brake lights are working, next time the light comes on.
Did a little checking of my own, and the brake pedal position switch seems to be the prevailing theory. Do the brake lights work, when the light is on? Do you have any trouble getting the shift lever out of park? Do you hear clicking sounds, when the brake pedal is pushed? All these symptoms are also linked to the pedal position switch.
I had a bad position switch in my 03EXV6. That caused the TCS lignt to come on. When the TCS light came on, it triggerred the triangle light to come on also to indicate the TCS was deactivated.
Maybe something else to cause only the triangle light to come on. I think it could be a faulty traction control switch.
Can someone tell me how to remove the plastic lens over the 2 map lights in a 2006 Accord? I assume it simply pries off, but I don't want to break it so I thought I'd ask before I attempted it.
My real problem is this - when I open a door, only the right maplight comes on, even though the left light works if I reach up and toggle it on. Does the map lights use dual filament bulbs?
I am pretty sure if there is a problem with a wheel speed sensor, the TCS warning light will come on. When my TCS light cam on, I looked up to see what could cause the light to come on. Here are the possible causes:: pressure in the TCS/VSA modulator, brake position switch, and wheel speed sensors. There will be codes for those conditions. When the TCS light comes on, so does the triangle light.
Under the normal condition, the triangle light comes on & stays on when the driver turns off the TCS feature by pressing the TCS switch. But the light will go off on the next engine start. The flashing triangle light indicates the TCS is in action.
I wonder if the orginal poster's TCS warning light has burnt out.
When the wheels slip on acceleration, only the triangle light comes on (I think), so if one of the front wheel sensors is reading false (low or high), the traction control could be activated, and thus the triangle light, without the TCS light. In this scenario however, it seems like he would feel the TCS activate. It could also be a switch or relay, I suppose, but I would check the easy thing first (brake pedal position switch).
Hey, grad... or anyone else who has an 06-07 EX with cloth seats. Is there a hook for your rear passenger side floor mat near the top or front of the mat?
I just noticed that mine had one but that the left side does not. I'm not sure if it is for the electronics that are below the front passenger seat (I understand that seat heater controls are under there) and it is supposed to keep the mat from sliding up.
I don't know if the cloth seats have other electronics under the front passenger seat or if it is only with the leather seats. Just wondered why there is only a hook on that side and not the other. And the hook is near front unlike the driver's mat which has two hooks at the rear. Interesting. :confuse:
Hello everyone, I've been noticing that on a full tank of gas, and a good mix of city and highway driving, I am barely getting 500km (approx 310.7 miles) on a full tank. Just wanted to get some fellow owners opinions if that is to low or about avg for a call that is almost 7 years old (Bought it brand new in april 2003.)
The care only has about 87,000 km (approx 54,000 miles). I just changed the spark plugs, air and cabin filters recently.
Are you guys getting about the same mileage? better? worse? I would like to hear your opinions. I live in a suburban area full of traffic so as mentioned above it is a mix of city and highway driving.
Again I am just using this as an example. Honda is or was supposed to be known for its quality. Relatively speaking, I do think Honda's quality has dropped a bit.
Perhaps Honda suffered what most manufacturers suffer on a new release with a new generation. The first year of a new generation is generally the problematic one while the following years correct the problems of the initial start?
Comments
Thank you.
Dennis
After all who knows a Honda better than Honda trained technicians? For instance, as a side note, when I ask about whether private shops whether it's necessary to use Honda transmission fluid versus "regular" and they say it's unnecessary. I've read enough on various sites to know that's not right.
Anyway long story short I'd take it to the dealer. Having a long post is not a problem. The more information people have the better they are able to help you.
Brought the car in for 75K mile service. And mentioned the TSB for the inlet O-ring at P/S pump to remedy the P/S moaning.
Dealer noticed the moaning noise was still loud after replacing the O-ring. So they replaced the pump & fluid reservoir and
flushed the system. The noise was reduced but still loud. So they
ordered another pump overnight.
After 2nd pump replacement the noise is almost gone. I can
notice a big noise reduction in a moaning noise now.
Thank you Bernardi!!
I think it's a characteristic of Honda P/S system because
when I googled the issue, there are plenty of them out there.
All work was done under EW with 5 days left.
I guess with the replacement of ABS/VSA modulator, brake
switch, and P/S pump, the EW is paid for.
They said if the noise gets louder, bring it back and they will
check the line & rack pressure. Will keep my ear for the noise
in the next couple days.
The previous noise was much louder & didn't bother me much.
Just wanted to check have a couple TSBs checked out before
my EW is going to expire in a week. Turned out they gave me
a new reservoir, a P/S pump (needed to replace twice), a new pulley, and a complete flush.
They know it's not normal. That's why they started replacing the
pump & flushed the system after replacing the O-ring.
Will listen my co-worker's car if her 04EXV6 makes any noise.
Did you have to remove the bumper to install the guard?
In cold weather, when it is actively snowing, the car will jerk or hesitate when accelerating. It feels like someone applied the brakes for an instant. This happens once in a while, say from 30 seconds to 30 minutes apart, and only when it is snowing. I have no problem in the summer even when it is raining.
The car will lurch in any gear when accelerating but does not jerk when coasting. I am not spinning the tires or losing traction, it can happen on level dry ground (no snow accumulation). The window defrost is off (e.g. heat to feet only, so it is not the AC), rear defog off. The engine could be hot or cold, it does not make any difference.
There is no engine trouble light, no flash of any of the dashboard lights, and no codes, Honda replaced the ABS brake modulator but that did not make any difference. I asked the dealership to check with Honda engineering but they did not have any ideas.
The car is a 5 speed manual so it is not a poorly shifting automatic transmission.
Specs: Accord SE, 4 cyl, manual, no modifications. This model does not have traction control.
This might be a clue or a completely different issue – any time of the year, the car has an uneven acceleration when the engine is cold. It goes away when the engine warms up.
so, no need to haggle with them about another new MS (since I am out of warranty now), and the massively annoyning (but functionally irrelevant!) noise is gone.
If it comes back soon, I will request that they dig deeper int the problem. Or just buy myself a spray can!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
There was no way I wanted to replace that thing again so I squirted some WD40 into the cylinder (where the plunger of the clutch linkage pushes into the MC) of the MC and that took care of it, no more squeaking. It's been about a year now and still no squeaking.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
your car has drive-by-wire.
This would have been the 5th winter on the original, and no way I was chancing that.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
My question: Is it a relay under the hood or the blower motor relay???? Both are easy to change. I need to get it working before Wed.... leaving for Thanksgiving and not really looking to the trip without defrosters and heat.
Thanks.... eager to know more.
You can do the continuity test between the terminals.
Or you can swap with the rear window defrost relay and see if
the problem goes away. I think they are the same relays.
I know I replaced my battery with a Walmart battery, and have never had an issue with them.
Also Can someone tell me how many digits/numbers they are for the engine number.
Thanks.
TL
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/AC0303/AC0303O00362B.pdf
Corkscrew
3yrs/36K warranty.
It takes almost 10 seconds to load a page.
I've noticed lately that the light is always on in the glove box when the I have the lights on the outside of the car lit up. I don't think this light was always on before. Is there something I should do which can turn the light in the glove box off?
Mrbill
to come on.
When the TCS light came on, it triggerred the triangle light to come
on also to indicate the TCS was deactivated.
Maybe something else to cause only the triangle light to come on.
I think it could be a faulty traction control switch.
I think it could be a faulty traction control switch.
Could also be a wheel speed sensor. I remember reading about corrosion causing them to fail.
My real problem is this - when I open a door, only the right maplight comes on, even though the left light works if I reach up and toggle it on. Does the map lights use dual filament bulbs?
Thanks
TCS warning light will come on. When my TCS light cam on, I looked
up to see what could cause the light to come on. Here are the possible causes:: pressure in the TCS/VSA modulator, brake position switch, and wheel speed sensors.
There will be codes for those conditions.
When the TCS light comes on, so does the triangle light.
Under the normal condition, the triangle light comes on & stays on when the driver turns off the TCS feature by pressing the TCS switch.
But the light will go off on the next engine start.
The flashing triangle light indicates the TCS is in action.
I wonder if the orginal poster's TCS warning light has burnt out.
I just noticed that mine had one but that the left side does not. I'm not sure if it is for the electronics that are below the front passenger seat (I understand that seat heater controls are under there) and it is supposed to keep the mat from sliding up.
I don't know if the cloth seats have other electronics under the front passenger seat or if it is only with the leather seats. Just wondered why there is only a hook on that side and not the other. And the hook is near front unlike the driver's mat which has two hooks at the rear. Interesting. :confuse:
The care only has about 87,000 km (approx 54,000 miles). I just changed the spark plugs, air and cabin filters recently.
Are you guys getting about the same mileage? better? worse? I would like to hear your opinions. I live in a suburban area full of traffic so as mentioned above it is a mix of city and highway driving.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2003/
Again I am just using this as an example. Honda is or was supposed to be known for its quality. Relatively speaking, I do think Honda's quality has dropped a bit.
Perhaps Honda suffered what most manufacturers suffer on a new release with a new generation. The first year of a new generation is generally the problematic one while the following years correct the problems of the initial start?