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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair



  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    You do not need to wait for the recall notice. I did not wait for a recall notice and made an appointment at the local Jeep dealer. They did the repair sans notice.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Yesterday i went to get some diesel and the station did not have any i ask and they told me that they put gas in the tank of the diesel. 3 trucks put over 300 worth each and they had to clean the tanks and the tank truck too. Is gas so bad with the diesel, does any body can explain me why is so bad when they said that the diesel engine run with even charcoal dust? why is gas so different...

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    The people at that station are nimrods.Diesel and gas are very different.Diesel works on the heat of compression produced by the higher compression ratio of a diesel engine,generally 20 to 1,while gas engines run at approx 8 to 1.Without getting too far into detail,THESE TWO NEVER MIX.You would have been better off putting furnace oil or kerosene in the truck.If they put gas in your jeep they should have to pay for all related repairs.Diesel fuel helps to lubricate and cool your injectors and pump,gas may do some serious damage to the fuel system,especially in the Common Rail system.If you ever accidentally put gas in,don't even start the vehicle,get it towed to a garage and drained.The cost and inconvenience will be enough to never make the same mistake twice.I know,I've had to be the one draining and flushing the vehicles when someone has put gas into a diesel or vice versa,your better off running dry.Rudolph Diesel would be rolling over in his grave...
  • We have an May 05 built CRD sport.
    Have had only one problem. The fan clutch had to be replaced twice and a reflash.
    We drive the Jeep like a truck. Using the trans. as a clutch to slow. We pull a travel trailer (2800#) and get 19mpg. Yesterday I tested the mpg on the hwy got 26 driving 68mph.
    So far the Jeep has preformed as advertised.
    We always let the engine warm up for 2 min. when cold b/4 putting it into gear. I don't think there is another vehicle on the market now that would give us the towing capacity hi clearance and mpg that the Liberty does. So far we're satisfied.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Putting gasoline in a diesel is a recipe for disaster. Besides wiping out the injection system of the diesel, you will burn up the rest of the engine.

    The original diesel engine built by Rudolf used coal dust and then peanut or some vegetable oil.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    semperfi06:After the PCM change out the shift points have remained at 48 to 53 to shift into 5th and 53 to letting my foot off the accelerator. Even before the PCM change when I punch it there is no doubt it's moving at capacity. No matter when I punch it to pass it drops to a gear that is below the redline, when at redline it shifts up to the next higher gear. Yes the fuel mpg went up, especially when before I had gotten a couple of 19 mpg and for me that just was not going to fly with me. I have always been polite with our service manager. However I have been very firm maybe two times. The service advisor said the tec had gone to a town about 40 miles west of the dealer. Odd, because we had followed our Jeep for the last 35 miles at a point that was east of the dealer. That was exactally what I said it was...a lie. Red faced the service tec just kept quiet. The real problem with every problem is the Tec's just are not able to trace down information, and I believe STAR has give up training any more tecs on the CRD. If my dealer ever stopped knowing how to fix this CRD I would take it to Capitol Dodge in Jefferson City, MO. They told me they can do warranty Jeep work, and I know they do top notch work.

  • I just took a pipe and knocked it str8 throught the convertor...i noticed more power and fuel milage..and it sure smells like a diesel...
  • Has any one bought a aftermarket module i have noticed edge has one out and soon painless will have one..and how did it do..Thanks
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Yesterday evening the malfunction light came on and it stays on. I have read the Owners Manual, Can anyone tell me if they have had this yellow little pest come on, and what it took to get it fixed? I have 24,400 miles on the CRD and I do have the DCX extended Service warranty on the Liberty, so unless it, is something I am to service DCX will take care of. Thanks for your help.

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Farout,generally,unless you have a code reader or scan tool,you will have to bring the jeep in to get it asessed.Should be free if you're under warranty.I'm curious,does it seem to drive better?My check engine light came on this summer in the middle of the Rockies and the truck ran better than ever.Got it checked as soon as possible,the teck cleared it and it came on before he got it out of the shop.The code that it spit out was P1140 ACTIVE.I drove it this way for a week till I got it to my dealer.It had to do with a control solenoid or valve on the E.G.R.,not the e.g.r. itself.The teck was good but part supply wasn't.Took a week to get the part and another week and a half for a gasket,one day to do the work.Spent about a month with the light on and the truck ran fine if not better!If you find out it is something like this,make sure the service rep knows they need a gaket,I wouldn't let them get my jeep until all parts were in,especially since it was running fine,the tec new his stuff though.Good luck and keep us posted...
  • Thanks Farout! I just purchased the Chyrsler maximum care $0 Ded 6 yr 100K service contract so I can take our Liberty in whenever needed and not worry about cost or getting a rental car. Of course our 2006 Liberty only had a 3yr/36K warranty, and I expect to have that much mileage in less than two years. I didn't think I needed a 7 year service contract, since I should be to 100K in less than 6 years. I couldn't get as good a deal as you did, since you had a better basic warranty, but I did much better than the dealer would offer. So after the holidays, I plan to take the Liberty in and see if they can get mine to shift more similar to yours. It sounds like passing after the fix is like passing before the fix, but you are able to cruise around in higher gears earlier. It looks like the host has reopened our main will we try to do all our communications there now instead of bounce around to all these sub-sites?

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Way back at 682 miles that yellow light came on and the CRD crumped while driving on the highway. It died with a loud thud and I was able to coast it to the shoulder. It was a hard re-start and every time I took it past twenty miles per hour, it would die. It was in limp-in-mode. I had it towed to the dealer.

    The dealer did a software update and that was the end of that. The dealer had to call Star people because they had trouble getting the controller to accept the update. It has been fine since then.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Arvman... The book said that the P1140 is the Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid, it got nothing to do with the EGR valve. The reservoir is at the left by the air filter it has an small filter that look like a fuel filter. it control vaccum.

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Thank's nescomo,I have no book so I have to rely on what I'm told at thr dealership.Where did you get a book for the CRD?I wouldn't mind getting one even though I'm still uder warranty.Do you do a lot of the work yourself?If so,how hard is it to get around the engine?Cheers,arvman...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I remember reading that the "Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid" is the little cylindrical gizmo sitting behind the air filter housing. It changes the position of the variable turbo vanes. It's in front of the air conditioning canister.
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I have not posted here on the forum for a while - mainly because I have not had a reason to watch for "malfunctions" of the CRD engine. I, too, am very pleased with my Liberty CRD and would purcgase another in heartbeat if they Chrysler were not dropping them from the lineup. My small problems were alos within the first 4000 miles and I now have 36M+ on it and it runs like a top. I do a lot of mixed driving and usually get between 22 - 24 MPG. On a trip from WI to AZ I averaged well over 27 MPG. I have also told my wife to to expect a Grand Cherokee diesel sitting in the garage when the time comes to "trade up". I am fortunate to be dealing with a dealership that has a couple of very good diesel mechanics. Evidently when my EGR was replaced at 4500 miles they must have did it right!
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    spete,are still running mobil 1 0w40?
  • I bought my CRD last December and I can say this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. This is my fourth jeep in 10 years and out of the last 10 months it has spent 29 days in the shop and has to go back again. I have sent letters, e-mails and phone calls to chrysler with absolutly no response what so ever. I feel that I am going to have no choice but to file a law suit and / or go to the media with this problem. I was warned not to buy a vehicle the first year it comes out, but I didn't listen - shame on me! :sick:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Topkick... We all had some problems with the CRD mainly the EGR valve there are a few things that you could do to resolve the problem. Another problem is the DEALER some of them do not have tech that know the CRD, first you should go to another dealer and ask if they have a good diesel tech go and talk to the man and you will see that all your problems will be solve. It is a great Jeep, one of the best just give your self some time to learn about it if they were so bad how come you don't see a lot of them for sale. Give a time and don't forget to replace your bolt joint, it is recall.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    topkick99: I have been in the forum almost 2 years. I bought our CRD Sept 29, 05. There have been a number of people with problems with the CRD. Most of the problems start with ignorant tec's that are not experienced enough and don't look at the tec. manuals, and stumble or guess their way through the problem. The end result is too many trips to the repairing dealer, or too many days spent taking care of the problem, and when they say it's fixed, you get in and find either a new problem or the old problem is still there.
    I would venture to say as many as ten others have mentioned getting names and VIN numbers, and I think one actually started a place in these EDMUNDS forums to collect the information. Let me say that this is useless effort unless there is someone who has the organized skills, and has a backbone, and the time to follow it through. Then there is the responsibility to keep the people who sign in with the information, secure to them self. Submitting the information is not an easy task either.
    I have also watched several others threaten law actions, and they too have just petered out. One single person can't fight a giant like DCX, the way they ignore and pass you along is an endless maze. Only by reporting this to an agency that deals with consumer issues can really be of much help. But, what consumer agency? That is perhaps the biggest question.
    I know I sure don't put my information in a spot where anyone can just take it and misuse it, and that does happen.
    I would be interested in helping get this moving, but there needs to be some way to communicate first that is safe, and keeps out identity secure. I would not doubt if retaliation could happen by interested parties who would want such a movement stopped.
    I look to hear from you soon.

  • after reading page after page i figured i'd join and see if anyone has had MY problems.

    i have an '02 liberty, i bought it new sometime in '01. one thing i loved was actually the gas mileage. i live 7 hrs from home and could almost make it there without having to fill up more than once.

    about a year ago i started having bad gas milage (i could tell a difference).. i've had my fuel injectors flushed which helped for about a week.. still having this gas problem.

    last september, i had to be towed to a dealership, and was told my power steering pump was out, and i needed a new one. (im a girl, and daddy is far from here, so i'm hoping it wasnt just a leak)

    earlier this week, car needed to be towed again, couldnt move the steering wheel at all when i woke up to go to class. was told the power steering "cooler" was out. -- needed a new one. (anyone ever heard of this???)

    when i left the dealership, i heard kind of a whistling noise coming from the passenger side under the hood. i hear it when i'm at a stop. -- took it back, and they couldnt hear what i heard.

    two days ago, i left my car running and walked around the back to dump my trash, i heard a constant clicking, or knocking sound coming from the rear of my car. i can hear it best when i lean down by my back tire. my friend thinks this is the fuel pump needing to be replaced???

    i hear a "grinding" noise that seems to come from my front breaks when i come to a stop. doesnt happen all the time, but it's a scary sound. took it in, and they couldnt find anything wrong with my breaks.

    thanks for any information!! :confuse:

    PS) my liberty has about 70,100 miles.. and when its not having these problems, i still love it.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I had a Dodge Dakota prior to owning my Liberty CRD. The fuel economy issue is of interest to me and here is what I have found that may help.

    1. Change the fuel filter yearly in a gasser. The quality of all fuels in this country are marginal at best. Stick with a name brand like Chevron/Texaco or Shell. In spite of what everyone says, they are right that the base stock of gasoline is the same, but it is the additive package that makes the big difference. What about the air filter? Has it been changed regularly?
    2. Use a good fuel additive. There are many good ones out there and they are cheap insurance. Consider Techron products from Chevron or products from Redline.
    3. A "clicking" sound could mean tappets/lifter issues. Do you have adequate oil in the engine? What kind of oil are you using? If you have changed your oil regularly and the top end of the engine is clean, consider using a synthetic oil. A knocking sound might be a bearing in the engine. Do you hear the "knocking" when you are underway?
  • now that i think of it, the fuel filter has been changed also. its a tiny little filter.

    the clicking sound only comes from the back, i cant hear it anywhere else unless i get out when the car is parked, and stand or lean down by my back tire or by my back hatch. i dont think its anything to do with my oil, as i've changed it lately.. i don't think its anythingunder the hood, i think its something in the rear. when the car is parked nothing is moving around where i hear this noise, there arent moving parts. (i dont think). i'm sure it keeps on while i drive, but i cannot hear it.

    thanks :)

    PS) can someone explain what "tappets/lifter issues" are?
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The fuel filter is not that small. It is about 5 inches long and about 2.5 inches around and is somewhere underneath. Fuel injected gassers have large fuel filters.

    As to the oil, just because it was changed recently, does not mean it is full. When it was changed, it could have been have been over filled or under filled. Have you checked the level?

    Which back tire are you talking about when you hear this "clicking" sound? Have you ever opened the hood with the engine running to see if you can hear the sound coming from the engine? If you have not opened the hood with the engine running you need to do that. Many engine sounds/vibrations can travel down the exhaust system and it can appear as if they are emanating from the end of the exhaust system when the source of the sound may be from the engine or engine accessory under the hood.

    As to lifters/tappets, these devices are basically the same. They are intermediate devices between the camshaft and the valve that transmit the force of the cam lobe to an intake or exhaust valve opening and closing it.
  • i held the fuel filter in my hand, it was long but the filter itself didnt look very big.
    ill check the oil...

    i've opened the hood, it isnt coming from there only hear it when i am at the back of the car near both tires. it sometimes takes the car being on a minute or so until it starts and stops the exact time the engine is off.

    i have a feeling my friend is right about the fuel pump.. i'll let you know when i take it in for the recall. i'm going to have them check this sound out as well.

  • After my 5th and final phone call to chrysler on monday with no response and turned all my information over to my lawyer. I just can't afford to keep renting a car to commute to work. This week's problem is my trans seems to be going - getting stuck in second gear and stalling out at red lights. It only has 18,000 miles on it. All I wanted was to talk to someone maybe to get an extended warranty or a loaner car for all the time its spent in the shop. :lemon:
  • crdfancrdfan Posts: 10
    You and I are in the same boat. I have been going thru this for a year with my lawyers and from what I've been told Chrysler will try to out last you. I have owned 4 jeeps in the last 10 years plus 2 other chrysler vehicles, I would expect this if I wasnt such a good customer, but evidently they dont care. Good luck, I would like to know how it goes.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    crdfan: There is a way to save yourself some money with the lawyers fee, and get the results that is a basically what you want. But, no one can get exactally what you demand from such a huge corp. as DCX. Being realistic is a must. No vehicle maker will just refund all your money and take the vehicle back, it just will not happen.
    For whatever mileage you have on the vehicle, DCX will say that you drove that amount of miles. It makes no difference by Ford, Toyota, Jeep, or whom ever, they all demand you pay for the miles you got use out of. Even if 1/3 of the miles were to and from the dealer for repair, you used their miles (if they buy it back then it was their vehicle you were driving, and you used their vehicle and put miles on it) so you become a renter. I fully expect the miles you drove will cost you $ .50 cents a mile. If there is some very unusual circumstances they can adjust the cents per mile all the way down to no money for miles driven.

    If you have not followed the Lemon Law as it is written in the Jeep Bag in your dash, you won't stand a chance! Lawyers don't bother DCX or any other vehicle maker in the least! Remember these makers have a fulltime staff of lawyers and many are assigned specfic areas to defend DCX.

    I had a Caravan and we had it for 9 months and put on 21,000 miles. We were towed so many times and in some very hard to find areas. We waited several times for up to two weeks waiting for transmissions, motor flange that held the motor in place in the back near the fire wall. The power steering hose broke, the power steering pump and the rack and pinion went out twice. Water pump, two computers, ABS sensors went bad, timing belt broke, just to mane a few things. We were in the shop more than 22 times, and nearly most required over night stay.
    The Service Manager was really getting really tired of my being irritated and complaining so much to him. I was really upset but really did not know what to do. He said we was going to get a "pilot" and then I would drive with it for three days. This did take place. About ten days latter I got a call from the Business Manager, asking for my wife and I to come to his office that evening. When we got there, the Zone rep had a brand new Caravan sitting there. He said because of the many problems we had he would swap ours for the new one just like ours or pick a different one. The replacement cost us $12.50 for the State paper work.

    I want to tell you we had every piece of paper that had ever been done to the caravan, and even the Tec's name who worked on the vehicle, and any comments that any dealer worker said about the Caravan.

    We never got rude, and we always said to whomever that all we wanted was to be treated fairly.

    I know the system works as long as you have proof of what you say, and a record of what others who work with the vehicles have said. Facts can't be discredited, and if the facts are backed up with written proof it is a locked tight situation they can't worm out of.

    I have been aware of sever who attempted to follow the Lemon Law who got no where because they did not have everything they said backed up and organized. In a real way you have to be as well prepared as their Lawyers. Sad to say very few owners can be cool and relaxed, have what they are going to say well rehursed, and be able to find the materials when asked to furnish evidence for what has been said.

    The expert Lawyers vehicle maker have, are well trained to make you look like a foolish owner who was responsible for what ever went wrong with this vehicle. So know your presentation, have the facts in order, and have some humor ready to smooth over the rough spots.
    Good luck.

  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i run out with 1.5 gallon left also had a problem with tranny going in to third gear all the time would have to stop turn of key and restart would be ok for about a week chanced the pcm and it still did it replaced the tranny cylanoids still did it called crycler they sent me a heavy torque converter with a heavier pump works great haven't been on a trip yet but shifts a lot harder no slip at all
  • Hi, new here, i love diesels and my wife loves jeeps so i baught her a 2006 liberty crd (junk) 15000 miles on it and can't count how many times in the shop. At 13250 miles almost ran it out of oil,it had 3250 miles on oil so i changed it and 300 miles later it was below add,refilled and called dealer,took it in and they told me nothing wrong because it had no codes. I told them that the intake tubes were full of oil and they said that the factory put that in them, theu told me NOT TO PUT ANY MORE OIL IN IT AND BRING IT BACK IN 1000 MILES, but at 70 more miles it was low again and i told them it woulf lock-up they said that was fine. I didn't alow that to happen,after 1000 miles they told me it was normal to use 1 quart every 1000 miles and when it gets to 50000 miles to add a quart every 750 miles. This is not why i baught a new car. I have changed oil every 5000 miles and ues mobil 0w40 from jeep, any advise? Thanks greg.
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