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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Following-up to share my experience with completion of F37: 2005 Jeep w/ build date of 01/05. Carefully considered two different 5 star dealers and took to one that completed two F37s with no issues. Explained that F37 procedure varies based on VIN, they acknowledged & agreed. Got a call mid-day that part of recall was to inspect rear main seal. Weepage is okay, but seepage is not. Though I did not have oil on floor of garage yet they saw enough oil below the seal to believe the beginning of seepage. Rear main seal was ordered - would be in next day. Next day - installation of seal and torque converter went fine. Re-programming TCM was causing engine light on. TCM not taking flash. Their transmission specialist and their electronics master tech was on it. Found that Battery in Jeep was causing problem with the Flash update. Temporarily replaced with larger battery & flash update worked. Put original battery back in - works fine - they were done and washed it by 5:15. The service department was great to work with. They admitted this particular recall was a little challenging. Results: Light acceleration - I don't really notice anything. In a hurry - notice RPMs rise higher before shift and shift is more pronounced - a good thing. It is still just as "peppy" and fun to drive even from stop - YES - whew!!! On mine, one definite change is that 5th gear occurs at 60 rather than 58 now. After shift to 5th, you can still drop mph back to 56 and it will stay in 5th and run at 1,600 rpm. However, get impression engineers would rather have engine rpm @ cruise closer to 2000 now than 1600 since it runs @ about 1800 at 55 in 4th and about 1800 in 5th @ 60 (maybe...who knows?). Also, could just be me, but on the way to work this morning, I'm pretty sure it is now peppier at highway speeds (not as spongey). Don't know MPG yet, but will check. Even though it did take two days, the recall was free and in my opinion the driving performance is improved. Hope that helps. Butchman
  • Well my (lemon) Liberty torque converter went before i even knew about the recall and detroyed the trans. When it was towed in they said the re-call was going out next week. It took them 11 days to do all the repairs. So as of owning this vehicle for 1 year now, the dealer had it for a total of 40 days! As of Jan. 8th., my lawyer as put them on notice for a lawsuit to be filed. I don't think much will happen, however maybe I can get an extended warranty out of this mess so I don't have to pay for these repairs. So far the dealer has billed chrysler close to $8,000. However with the new torque converter and trans. I still get 27mpg
    so i can't complain. :lemon:
  • Im new to the forum, and have a 2005 liberty CRD. I have had continual issues with the check engine light, involving EGR, glow plugs and transmission problems. Most recently i have experienced a major problem with the turbo. At a stoplight i heard a thud, and then the light came on. The jeep now strains going up any hint of a gradient; with the pedal to the floor even on level roads the jeep wont go more than about 35 mph. The mechanics said the codes on the check engine light were valves (?) in the turbo. Im guessing this is affecting compression in the cylinders but i really dont know much about turbos or diesels.
    I have had the torque converter recall done and i was shocked by the lack of grunt after the reprogramming of the ECM. I didnt know if anyone had any thoughts on my problem- if it could be only a turbo problem or if it could also be related to perhaps a mistake during the recall repairs.
  • geedubbgeedubb Posts: 34
    I had my recall done last week. I'm pretty disappointed at the performance drop. The Liberty is not at quick, shifts harder and at higher rpm. Then yesterday I had an engine hesitation, similar to a gas engine electrical misfire, when starting off from a traffic light, no warning lights appeared so may have been air in the fuel line.
    The turbo doesn't seem to have that "kick in the pants" boost it had before. I don't know how the changes will affect fuel economy.
    Gary
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The PCM and the TCM have to relearn your driving style. That may take several hundred miles. The remapping of the engine controller does take some of that kick in the pants to keep the engine from destroying the trans. Just give it some time.

    I have had the F37 done and find that it is easier to modulate the throttle from a dead start. The firmer shift is actually better for the trans in the long run (less heat and friction).
  • Okay so i was a little bit wrong in my initial report. The problem isnt with the valves; it is with sensors in the turbo (?) They have gone bad, and now the ECM is confused about the readings it is getting, so its choking performance. This drop isnt just the drop after the recall, its really truly awful and the car just will NOT go. It feels like im on 2 or maybe 3 cylinders, and the car absolutely strains going up any slight incline. It barely makes it up the hill to my apartment. I was supposed to get it fixed, and have the ball joint recall done yesterday but they had ordered the wrong sensor so i have to drive this horribly running vehicle for probably another week. Its embarassing to not be able to accerate from a stoplight. Traffic honks behind me as i sslllooowwwllly approach 20 mph. what is the trade in value in jeep CRD? Im to the point that i'd like to just get rid of it.
  • ktangktang Posts: 2
    Now you have me worried! My 2006 CRD broke down on Dec.27 and is still in the shop! I have put less than 5000km on it and it died. The battery will not stay charged. They have replaced the battery, the alternator, modules in the computer and even replaced the computer itself. No lemon laws in Canada, so I am screwed. I contact Chrysler customer service everyday. They have given me a used sebring to drive. So glad I am paying over $500 a month to drive a crappy sebring! :mad:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: After 2,000 miles on the F37 and reflashes, I can feel a lack of torque. I noticed it when going up a hill on the freeway that I had not been on after the F37. I think DCX has a problem as people begin to feel how much torque has been taken. However I do see about 2 mpg more. So DCX taketh and DCX giveth as well.


    Farout
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Interesting that you can feel a difference after having F37 done.

    I for one cannot tell the difference in torque output. Did some long hills (10% grade over three miles) at 55 MPH and accelerated to 70 MPH and found that the pulling power in top gear was still there and seemed unchanged. FE has improved though up about 1.5 MPG. I find, as I mentioned previously, that modulating the accelerator pedal is easier than before.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Hi Farout,

    I have not had the F37 done yet. I'm waiting until there is less chance of snow and ice before I have it done. Anyway, Winter2 may have a point, sort of. There may be another reason why you torque is down a little. Have you cleaned your boost sensor yet?

    Over the past few months my CRD has been loosing power and economy - and smoking more. At first I thought it was due to ULSD, then winter ULSD, then cold weather. My last two road trips netted 24 MPG - all time low. After cleaning the boost sensor mileage jumped back up to 28+ mpg which seems about right for winter ULSD. The dirty sensor causes the boost to read low and the input air temperature to lag causing improper fuel metering/timing, probably.

    It is easier to clean than changing a spark plug. It is located on top rear of the intake manifold on the driver side. It's right behind the fuel pressure sensor that is attached to the fuel rail. Just remove the engine cover and unplug the electrical connector on the fuel pressure sensor and the boost sensor. It's held on by one 4mm allen the goes straight down. It is sealed in the manifold by an O-ring that stays with the sensor when it is easily pulled out. There is a washer on the allen screw to watch for. The sensor cleans up easily with brake clean and compressed air or maybe just compressed air. Some use carb cleaner. I think that stuff is a little harsh to use on plastic but they say it's okay.

    After cleaning there is almost no black smoke - less than new. On a flat highway the engine rattles again running 60 mph since it's under such light load. Hasn't done that for months. :surprise: :)
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    siberia: Thanks for telling me that! I have 27,900 now and it may well be that sensor! The only difference I have noticed is the torque when I punch it between 60 to 70 mph, the get up and go has got up and went. So it proberly is that.
    I took our CRD into our selling dealer yesterday to have the electric mirrors and the rubber gaskets around the doors checked to see if they needed adjustment or replaced. They have a new service writer a real smart butt! I went to see how the tec was doing, as it had been 1 1/2 hours and no word. That service dude came after me like I was fresh meat and he was a hound dog. He told me to go back to the waiting room as this was not for customers. I have done this many times before with no issue. When the Jeep was done the guy said that as a good fellow he was ordering 4 new rubber gaskets and a new switch, and it was because we bought it there. I said you ought to take care of it, and I expect it. (we bought the Max Care 100,000 mile service contract) The vehicle has the 36,000 mile warranty. So his line I did not buy. Then he tells me unless I change fluid in the axles and T case my warranty is no good. He infacticly says this is to be done every 12,000 miles. The cost was $279. US. I told him I would consider it next time I have it serviced. (But not by this place) I looked and under schedule A you just check it never change it. I an not a schedule A or B, so I split it, I change my oil every 7,500 to 8,000 miles. I have towed a trailer three times for a total of 400 miles. So what do you think? I think he believes I am a rider on the back of a turnip truck that just came in. Any ideas?

    Farout
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Your right! He was trying to hose you. Keep your money in your pocket. I Changed the fluid in my front and rear diffs at 36K myself and it cost about $25 total. Any good shop can do it. The transfer case will be changed at 60K. It has a drain plug and takes ATF if I'm correct. Go to a local shop you trust and you should get away with about $120 for everything.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    goodcrd: One thing I hate is for somesone to try and sucker me in. My wife heard everything this Service writer said and she said he was rude and pushy. We both felt he missed his calling, he should have been a finance manager or after market sales man. When I return to have the switch and rubber door gaskets replaced, I expect him to tell me some other overlooked part is in danger of instantly going bad if I don't have them fix it right this minuet.
    This was a good place to go for service until this kind of high pressure guy entered the picture. I will return to the Dodge dealer I have used for a good number of years. There I can even request the Tec I want to work on my Jeep.

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi guys, I got mixed up within the different threads. This was for Farout concerning the boost sensor...

    Farout,
    You can clean the sensor easily. Just make sure you have enough light because there is a 20mm long M5 screw with a flat washer to hold the sensor against the manifold. This is very close to the firewall, meaning difficult to illuminate and to get your hands around the job.

    First, disconnect the common rail and the boost sensors.

    I used a normal 4mm hex key on it's long side to reach behind the wiring harness and the engine cover holding structure. A small tube or box wrench is a good way to twist the hex key. The screw is quite tight and "snaps" as it gets undone.

    Once the screw gets freed from the thread, it can fall behind the engine if you don't pay attention and you won't find it anymore. The screw is made of stainless steel, so forget about the magnet to pick it up.

    Remove the screw and washer before twisting the sensor to remove it.

    Put the screw and washer on the sensor to put it back. Normally there is no problem to insert the sensor while holding the screw and washer with a finger.

    Reconnect both sensors.

    That's it. :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Which side of the engine are we looking at? Which manifold are you describing? Do you have pictures?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    This is the intake manifold (on the left side of the truck), next to the fuel filter. Once the engine cover is off you can see the two sensors sitting almost one above the other.

    Here is a view of the thing:

    image
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Thanks. This is very helpful.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Praise the LORD! I really found it all by myself! However, will fuel come out the hole when you remove the sensors? Do you take both sensors?
    Just as a note I have called 6 major dealers, even one in Phoenix, Arizona, and Toledo, Ohio and not any of then knew a single thing about the boost pressure filter! This filter is listed in the owners manual as needing to be cleaned or replaced every 12,000 miles, but no one knew what it was. I even called DCX customer care, and they are trying to find out where it is located, and if we have such a filter. One service writer told me it was a brake booster filter, and my jeep does not have one. Why are people so reluctant to say "I don't know."?
    May I say that I deeply appreciate your sharing the knowledge you have! Thank you very much.

    Farout
  • Ktang, my belt tensioner had a "bad spot" in it...meaning that it was not keeping the proper amount of tension under certain electtic loads/driving conditions which meant that the alternator was slipping...resulting in the battery slowly losing charge.
    Boiler
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Now that you have found the sensor Farout you need to remove the electric plug from the boost sensor and the plug from the sensor next to it (fuel pressure sensor). This will allow you a little more room to remove the boost sensor.

    Two other things that might help. First, the big enclosed wiring harness on top of the engine can be slipped upward off the mountings and moved forward about an inch giving you plenty of room. Second, the plastic plugs on the sensors are press to release. If you warm up the engine before removing the plugs, the plastic releases on the plugs are more pliable and easy to release with no chance of breaking them off as when cold.

    No fuel will come out when you remove the boost sensor. It's mounted into the intake straight down, not on the fuel rail.

    I sent an email to my service Mgr at Woodhouse in Blair NE and he acknowledged this issue. Thanks for picking up the charge Caribou1. This is definitely an issue that needs to be taken care of periodically.

    I am now reading 37 lbs maximum MAP after cleaning the sensor. The maximum reading prior to cleaning was 32 lbs maximum. That's 5 lbs increase in the reading! - not actual boost. The computer had to be confused about how much fuel to inject. The temperature part of the sensor now changes readings much faster. Mileage has improved and incidental smoke is gone.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Siberia, we still have icy spots on our roads so it's premature for me to see an eventual increase in mileage.

    But, I have noticed a shorter response time of the torque converter lockup. I think this makes sense because the dirt 'blanket' could have been delaying the response of the sensor. Under constant load I cannot understand how delaying the signal could affect mileage.

    The change of maximum pressure reading in your case will be significant. My sensor had never been cleaned until I hit 90,000 KM. Time will tell.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Under constant load I cannot understand how delaying the signal could affect mileage.

    I agree that the delay on the temperature part of the sensor would have little affect on mileage. I suspect the temperature sensor has more to do with engine warm-up and it would read accurately when the engine is cold and warm-up is probably slow enough that the sensor responds adequately.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    siberia: Thanks for the information. However I will ask you one more question. What do you use to remove the sensor? It looks like with the plastic that there is nothing to put a wrench on. Maybe I am missing something? This looks easier to reach then some other parts on this CRD, to me anyway.
    You might want to read my post on the LIBERTY DIESEL forum. I made a mistake, and a real good one at that. Thanks for your patients and help.

    Farout
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Hi Farout,

    I am assuming that you looked at the picture posted by Caribou1 and you know exactly what it looks like. The 4mm hex screw that holds it in place is behind the sensor right by the firewall. After removing the screw, it pulls out easily with your fingers being held in only by and o-ring at that point. Just wiggle it back and forth with your fingers and pull it up and out. The first electrical plug goes into the fuel sensor and the back plug goes into the boost sensor.
  • I've been following this discussion for a while now. My 2006 CRD just had the F37 recall about 2 weeks ago.

    Before the recall I got an intermittant "shudder" as I came off of an acceleration up to hiway speeds(above 60mph). The vehicle had been in twice for this problem before the recall. The first time they didn't even drive it, they just hooked the computer up and cleared "Error Codes" caused by the transmission. The second visit the stated could not duplicate. Funny it did it on the way home. The shudder got worse over time. The recall came and I had it done. Now I get intermittant hard shifting at the same area (60 MPH), reduced fuel economy, reduced power at highway speeds, the engine is louder than it was before, more smoking and it starts like a big diesel truck if it is cold outside (never did this before)(sounds like the little CRD is going to come apart for about the first 10 to 15 seconds). Anyway it is going back on Friday. The dealer agrees that they may have messed something up. My wife normally drives this vehicle and she notices these problems. I drive it rarely so I really notice if there is a change in the vehicles behavior. We sat down and made seperate lists of what we noticed about the vehicle after the recall and both of us had almost identical lists. She fuels it up so her list included the fuel economy drop.

    I also had a problem with the tilt steering recently. You know how you tend to settle into the seat over a drive and pull yourself up. I placed a small amount of force on the steering wheel to pull myself up and the steering wheel dropped to the lowest setting. I thought maybe the tension lever may have been loose so I tried it again but it was tight and the wheel drops without much effort. Very dangerous. The wheel will wobble when it drops. Don't get caught off guard!
  • My 05 liberty is back in the shop. This time for a replacement line for a a power steering leak. I have a suspicion that somehow they pierced the line when they changed the ball joints. No leak until I came home the same day they were replaced. It's day 11 into the repair. They said they have to take the whole front end off for this repair; lights, etc. I had an appointment a 0800 hours on Fri 2nd. They didn't look at it until Mon the 5th. Ordered part and started working on it Friday 9th. I wonder if it will be ready mon. I have run out of the 5 days on the rental car-- extended warranty; called Chrysler, sorry, no extension,
    and am bothering my hubby for lifts everywhere.
    Call me silly but this car is self destructing. The lemon law only lasts 1 year in Alaska. It must have known it had to make it till then. After 7 plus flats, etc, etc, etc,
    this is getting old. Especially in minus degree weather.
    The rental car I had from Chrysler's check engine light came on; they told me not to worry until it flashes. Tire sensors went off. Shift stick wouldn't shift.
    Mighty fine autos they have. 5 star dealer.
    Jeepster in North Pole, AK. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • A giant thank you for posting the how-to on cleaning this sensor. Local dealer wasn't able to figure it out. After finding your info a few hours ago... it took me about 10 minutes to remove, clean, and replace the sensor.

    As for the results:
    before: road test this am, 22F, 58 MPH, 21.9 MPG :sick:
    after: road test this pm, 19F, 58 MPH, 28.0 MPG :)
  • I had the F37 fix(?) done in December and while the transmission seems to shift better I clearly have less power and my fuel economy is down about 2 m.p.g. I'm not pleased. I'll walk before I buy another DCX product.
  • I had the same problem with the steering wheel tilt coming loose. The dealer replaced the whole column for me.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    jbarbee: Call Customer Care at 800 992 1997. If more CRD owners call with problems it makes it easier to get help. I too have noticed a little mpg drop, but it may be just the winter fuel, so I am not totally sure.

    Farout
  • I recently had this performed on my 2005 diesel. I haven't noticed any change in the performance of the vechicle but I do get a 20% reduction in fuel mileage. Dealer says the "fix" should'nt have affected the mileage, that its probably the grade of deisel. I don't buy this. Any one have any suggestions or similiar experiences?
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    james176470: Welcome to the forum! Several of us have reactions to the F37, both good and bad. I have noticed less get up and go when I punch it to pass between 55 to 70 mph. I have called customer care nearly evertime I went in for a warranty or reflash. We have been to the dealer 23 times in 28,000 miles. Several items we have had to go back three or four times for the same thing. Most repeat problems have NOT been the engine, but computer related. Our cruise control kicks out at dips in the road. The fuel gage sending unite in the tank has been replaced four times (including the one it came with), front passengers seat belt has gotten stuck and had to be replaced three times. The wind comes in around the windows and gaskets have been replaced, and the wind still comes in. There have been 5 reflashes, a PCM replaced, inner cooler hose replaced, EGR flow valve replaced, and Ball joints, and we cant get the seats clean, other than that we love our "Green Beast". DCx has agreed that we are due something and it's in higher hands now that are going to call us with what they see is fair. They could offer to fix everthing, buy it back, or offer a replacement. I am leaning to have then fix everything and pay off the Chrysler Service warranty contract. Hope it goes a little better for you

    farout
  • I wanted to thank Caribou, Siberia, Farout and others for the tip and discussion of cleaning the boost sensor. Oh, and thanks for the L.O.S.T. tip...excellent photos.

    Can't believe the difference. No more black smoke! Even when I shove the accelerator through the floor board (emergency manuever yesterday). I can't verify increased mileage due to constant use of 4WD in conditions you should be be happy you can move...not complain about the mileage. I cannot believe how much soot was on the boost sensor. Pure speculation on my part, but I am beginning to think that this soot build-up made the engine/computer run in an over-rich condition which further exacerbated the problem.

    Has anyone ran their vehicle on ULSD and re-checked the sensor after 6-10k miles yet? Does the Provent discussed eons ago prevent this situation form re-occuring.
  • What is a boost sensor and where is it located?
    [email protected]
  • Refer to message 215 in this topic and read forward. I believe Siberia posted the info and subsequent photos.

    Garu
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi boilermaker2,
    The sensor is behind the EGR system, so exhaust "solid" matter is mixed with remaining oil fumes. I strongly believe we may have to clean out the manifold after some time. It's just too cold to work outside right now!
    I remember seeing VW manifolds clogged by faulty EGR valves on another forum. We should be in the same case.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: This may see odd, BUT I have had other family members follow me several time over the 17 months and check if our "Green Beast" puts anything when I punch it, or slow down. Not even when it's first started in real cold, with snow on the ground there is no trace of any smoke or anything. I would think snow would be a good place to see if there were any kind of left over [non-permissible content removed] coming from the CRD.
    After my blooper of putting 11 gallons of Karosine in the belly of the "green Beast" it just runs like ready to run the "tour De France" (hope I spelled it right. Spelling is not my good point)
    We have snow again! (we love snow and it's one reason we settled here) The only thing we shovel snow off is our steps in front and back which total 5 steps. We have several bags of salt that rids the ice pretty fast.
    Yesterday I paid $2.26 for diesel (ULSD) at WalMart. I get the best mpg with this fuel of any place. How can WalMart have the better fuel? I have checked and by adding the PS anti gel/Cetane booster/ lubercant I get at least 1 mpg less! How would think that happens?
    The news on Mikes Tottaly Free Jeep News says that Dr. Z is in serious talks of selling off Chrysler Motors with GM. There is big doubts this will fly because GM is not stable in its own finances. China is also looking at this too. Also Nissan-Renault are entering into the talks too. Wouldn't it be crazy if KIA or some other 3rd world country bought Chrysler? Frankly what all vechile makers fail at is a vehicle that gets 30 mpg, is mostly utility designed, and affordable for the higher Low income people can afford. The VW Thing was pretty close to that. They say the Smart Car will be sold here next year. I doubt it will be much of a seller, except in the cities. I drove a Versa recently and Zi was really impressed with the quality and the great front and back seats room for your feet. It had a very nice ride and power was good.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout,
    We should stay away from polemics: Kerosine cannot be used on the Tour de France because it has less BTUs (understand testosterone) than diesel fuel!
    (BTW Virenque is on tv right now :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: )
    Dr Z wants to sell Jeeps and Smarts? We have them here!
    When people drive bumper to bumper at 80 mph under pouring rain or just after the snow plough cleaned the road, what's your pick? When you have 3 grocery bags, what's your pick?
    When trucks (70 mph) and DC prestige cars will no longer threaten those who must share the asphalt, then the Smart may call it a day.
  • Hi Caribou,

    It took me a long time and re-reading some of these posts and those at another (LOST) site before I got the nerve to clean the sensor.

    Do I have to be concerned about this soot building up elsewhere in the manifold. If I remember many, many posts ago, you disconnected your EGR sensor. While i do not think that I can do this without throwing a code and light, is the Provent a necessary evil?

    Boiler
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    boilermaker2: How often do you change the fluid in axles? How many miles has your CRD have? I have run into a snag with DCX over the changing of these fluids. I maybe just as ignorant as can be when it comes to these issues, or just out of touch with reality.

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi Boiler,
    I believe the Provent will help the EGR Airflow Control Valve to survive, at least postpone the problem. I mean the rotary sensor/potentiometer and other contacts of the butterfly flap.
    I haven't installed mine because I found no reason to worry, since I only have the boost sensor along my intake path. I passed the 91,000 KM mark and my engine oil level is desperately stable. My EGR valve must be a solid chunk of soot by now, but if I have time this summer I will open the manifold for inspection. This engine has an excellent mechanical concept, it's just what's put around it that can cause problems.
  • Just an update. Jan. 11, had F37 recall done. Jan. 29th, loud bang, won't shift above 3rd gear, engine light on, called DCX and then sent a tow truck. Today is Feb. 21st. No parts, nothing moving yet. DCX would only take it to the nearest dealer, which only has one technician. This is the 5th time since October 13th that it has been in the shop. I will keep you posted. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Today I rotated my wheels, measured the disks (thickness varies between 28mm [new] and 26mm [worn]) and inspected the ball joints.
    Well, I discovered that disk wear is not really proportional to the mileage. It seems that once wear reaches 2/3rds of the way it is no longer predictable.
    The same applies to the ball joints. They had 1/3 of the play they have today after only 5000 miles.
    To conclude, it's time for 2 disks and a set of ball joints at 57,500 miles (92,000 KM). I have a bit more than 1mm play both sides.

    To those who don't know how to recognize a worn ball joint:
    - Lift the truck as described in the manual and let the complete wheel stay 3" off the ground
    - By lifting the wheel you can feel, see and hear the play!
    I did this once by hand and once with a lever. It's easy to do and a long depth caliper helps to measure the travel of the wheel against the fender.
  • The fluids were changed at 25 and the rear was checked I believe at 12.5k. Pulling from my over-used memory, I THINK that the lubrication requirement (weight of the oil) for the front and rear are different. Additive has to be used (so I was told by the service manager) if you have the trac-lock in the rear.

    Boiler
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Downloading of the image should be done separately because of it's large size.
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjoint.tif

    Notice the following:
    - The protective boot is not altered and made from PUR translucent material (best known so far for this application),
    - There is a lot of black grease inside the spherical chamber that looks like "Molykote",
    - There is a plastic liner around the ball, and this is deteriorated at the neck of the ball,
    - A fold of the protective boot is deteriorated over 1/2" or less and this gave way to humidity that you can see on the picture (where the grease is shiny),
    - The groove of the ball assembly where the protective boot is fixed shows traces of rust but no corrosion got through yet.

    To my understanding, the plastic liner of the ball didn't support the combination of grease and humidity. The only deterioration I can observe is the "collar piece" that is fixed onto the stem is chewed by compression against the outer wall of the spherical housing. When new, the plastic liner is an anti friction material inserted like a sock along the stem of the ball joint and protects the side of the sphere where the pressure is applied.

    Conclusion:
    It's the plastic liner around (and below) the ball that broke possibly due to the acidity of the grease and water mixture. Only the boot shows a 'pinch' that can let humidity in. The play of 1mm that I observed was in fact the thickness of the 'missing' plastic material. The ball itself is still in perfect condition and full of grease. But for how long?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I put the ball joint on a lathe and removed the deformed steel material that keeps the assembly together by the top.

    This picture is taken when the top piece (steel pusher cap) is removed. You can see the plastic lining:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointtopoff.tif

    This picture is taken when the upper plastic pusher is removed:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointinsidetop.tif

    Here is the sphere with it's chewed collar and damaged lining of the housing. The lining is shaped like a barrel and the sphere is held captive in the grease just by pressing it in. It's difficult to see everything in detail because I'm doing this with a flatbed scanner :)
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointliningbelow.tif

    Finally here is the plastic lining seen from above. Notice the grease distribution slots:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointlining.tif

    I'm keeping this stuff for the sake of curiosity. I'm pretty sure someone out there will be as interrested as I was :shades:

    I think we can assume the cause for excessive play of these ball joints is that the plastic sleeve 'gives in' and flows until it hits the 'collar' piece mounted on the stem that is used for keeping the boot from collapsing and letting humidity in. Do you have any other ideas?
  • cleaned the boost sensor with acetone and compressed air. saw an immediate improvement in fuel mileage around town. From 19 mpg to 24 mpg. Just returned from 300 mile highway trip and got 29.5 t0 32 mpg's @ 1800 rpm (approx. 64 mph). Sensor was extremely dirty so I guess that was my problem.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    james176470: Boy there is a lot of difference in our CRD's. At 65mph I am doing close to 2100rpm at 70 mph we are doing 2350 rpm. If we were doing 1800 rpm we are somewhere close to 58 mph. Ours shifts into 5th lock up at 54 mph doing about 1700 rpm. Have you had the F37 recall done that really cuts the torque and power yet? DCX has made this Green Beast not as fast on the take off as our 1996 Dodge neon with 193,000 miles on it!
    If your rpm's and mph are correct that means ours is really way out of normal. Let me know please. I will double check ours today to make sure that I may be messed up, as we older citizens get older the memory sometimes plays tricks on the recall part.

    Farout
  • geedubbgeedubb Posts: 34
    My crd is more in line with james. 5th lockup at 60-61 mph and the rpm drops to 1700. at 70 mph rpm is 2100. I haven't checked the mph against a gps yet.

    Gary
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    james176470: Well I did go and my wife wrote the exact rpm's and the mph. Here was the exact results. 55mph = 1700rpm, 60 mph = 1900 rpm, 65 mpg = 2050 rpm. So this makes me wonder, is my crd that much off or is your Tac off? This brings some interesting questions into play. Check your again, and record the different mph with the rpm's please.

    Farout
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