Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Are you shopping for a new car and having a hard time finding what you want or did you recently buy a car but had to settle for something different than what you originally wanted? A reporter wants to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by 10/22 for more info.

Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks Farout! I just purchased the Chyrsler maximum care $0 Ded 6 yr 100K service contract so I can take our Liberty in whenever needed and not worry about cost or getting a rental car. Of course our 2006 Liberty only had a 3yr/36K warranty, and I expect to have that much mileage in less than two years. I didn't think I needed a 7 year service contract, since I should be to 100K in less than 6 years. I couldn't get as good a deal as you did, since you had a better basic warranty, but I did much better than the dealer would offer. So after the holidays, I plan to take the Liberty in and see if they can get mine to shift more similar to yours. It sounds like passing after the fix is like passing before the fix, but you are able to cruise around in higher gears earlier. It looks like the host has reopened our main will we try to do all our communications there now instead of bounce around to all these sub-sites?

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Way back at 682 miles that yellow light came on and the CRD crumped while driving on the highway. It died with a loud thud and I was able to coast it to the shoulder. It was a hard re-start and every time I took it past twenty miles per hour, it would die. It was in limp-in-mode. I had it towed to the dealer.

    The dealer did a software update and that was the end of that. The dealer had to call Star people because they had trouble getting the controller to accept the update. It has been fine since then.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Arvman... The book said that the P1140 is the Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid, it got nothing to do with the EGR valve. The reservoir is at the left by the air filter it has an small filter that look like a fuel filter. it control vaccum.

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Thank's nescomo,I have no book so I have to rely on what I'm told at thr dealership.Where did you get a book for the CRD?I wouldn't mind getting one even though I'm still uder warranty.Do you do a lot of the work yourself?If so,how hard is it to get around the engine?Cheers,arvman...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I remember reading that the "Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid" is the little cylindrical gizmo sitting behind the air filter housing. It changes the position of the variable turbo vanes. It's in front of the air conditioning canister.
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I have not posted here on the forum for a while - mainly because I have not had a reason to watch for "malfunctions" of the CRD engine. I, too, am very pleased with my Liberty CRD and would purcgase another in heartbeat if they Chrysler were not dropping them from the lineup. My small problems were alos within the first 4000 miles and I now have 36M+ on it and it runs like a top. I do a lot of mixed driving and usually get between 22 - 24 MPG. On a trip from WI to AZ I averaged well over 27 MPG. I have also told my wife to to expect a Grand Cherokee diesel sitting in the garage when the time comes to "trade up". I am fortunate to be dealing with a dealership that has a couple of very good diesel mechanics. Evidently when my EGR was replaced at 4500 miles they must have did it right!
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    spete,are still running mobil 1 0w40?
  • I bought my CRD last December and I can say this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. This is my fourth jeep in 10 years and out of the last 10 months it has spent 29 days in the shop and has to go back again. I have sent letters, e-mails and phone calls to chrysler with absolutly no response what so ever. I feel that I am going to have no choice but to file a law suit and / or go to the media with this problem. I was warned not to buy a vehicle the first year it comes out, but I didn't listen - shame on me! :sick:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Topkick... We all had some problems with the CRD mainly the EGR valve there are a few things that you could do to resolve the problem. Another problem is the DEALER some of them do not have tech that know the CRD, first you should go to another dealer and ask if they have a good diesel tech go and talk to the man and you will see that all your problems will be solve. It is a great Jeep, one of the best just give your self some time to learn about it if they were so bad how come you don't see a lot of them for sale. Give a time and don't forget to replace your bolt joint, it is recall.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    topkick99: I have been in the forum almost 2 years. I bought our CRD Sept 29, 05. There have been a number of people with problems with the CRD. Most of the problems start with ignorant tec's that are not experienced enough and don't look at the tec. manuals, and stumble or guess their way through the problem. The end result is too many trips to the repairing dealer, or too many days spent taking care of the problem, and when they say it's fixed, you get in and find either a new problem or the old problem is still there.
    I would venture to say as many as ten others have mentioned getting names and VIN numbers, and I think one actually started a place in these EDMUNDS forums to collect the information. Let me say that this is useless effort unless there is someone who has the organized skills, and has a backbone, and the time to follow it through. Then there is the responsibility to keep the people who sign in with the information, secure to them self. Submitting the information is not an easy task either.
    I have also watched several others threaten law actions, and they too have just petered out. One single person can't fight a giant like DCX, the way they ignore and pass you along is an endless maze. Only by reporting this to an agency that deals with consumer issues can really be of much help. But, what consumer agency? That is perhaps the biggest question.
    I know I sure don't put my information in a spot where anyone can just take it and misuse it, and that does happen.
    I would be interested in helping get this moving, but there needs to be some way to communicate first that is safe, and keeps out identity secure. I would not doubt if retaliation could happen by interested parties who would want such a movement stopped.
    I look to hear from you soon.

  • after reading page after page i figured i'd join and see if anyone has had MY problems.

    i have an '02 liberty, i bought it new sometime in '01. one thing i loved was actually the gas mileage. i live 7 hrs from home and could almost make it there without having to fill up more than once.

    about a year ago i started having bad gas milage (i could tell a difference).. i've had my fuel injectors flushed which helped for about a week.. still having this gas problem.

    last september, i had to be towed to a dealership, and was told my power steering pump was out, and i needed a new one. (im a girl, and daddy is far from here, so i'm hoping it wasnt just a leak)

    earlier this week, car needed to be towed again, couldnt move the steering wheel at all when i woke up to go to class. was told the power steering "cooler" was out. -- needed a new one. (anyone ever heard of this???)

    when i left the dealership, i heard kind of a whistling noise coming from the passenger side under the hood. i hear it when i'm at a stop. -- took it back, and they couldnt hear what i heard.

    two days ago, i left my car running and walked around the back to dump my trash, i heard a constant clicking, or knocking sound coming from the rear of my car. i can hear it best when i lean down by my back tire. my friend thinks this is the fuel pump needing to be replaced???

    i hear a "grinding" noise that seems to come from my front breaks when i come to a stop. doesnt happen all the time, but it's a scary sound. took it in, and they couldnt find anything wrong with my breaks.

    thanks for any information!! :confuse:

    PS) my liberty has about 70,100 miles.. and when its not having these problems, i still love it.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I had a Dodge Dakota prior to owning my Liberty CRD. The fuel economy issue is of interest to me and here is what I have found that may help.

    1. Change the fuel filter yearly in a gasser. The quality of all fuels in this country are marginal at best. Stick with a name brand like Chevron/Texaco or Shell. In spite of what everyone says, they are right that the base stock of gasoline is the same, but it is the additive package that makes the big difference. What about the air filter? Has it been changed regularly?
    2. Use a good fuel additive. There are many good ones out there and they are cheap insurance. Consider Techron products from Chevron or products from Redline.
    3. A "clicking" sound could mean tappets/lifter issues. Do you have adequate oil in the engine? What kind of oil are you using? If you have changed your oil regularly and the top end of the engine is clean, consider using a synthetic oil. A knocking sound might be a bearing in the engine. Do you hear the "knocking" when you are underway?
  • now that i think of it, the fuel filter has been changed also. its a tiny little filter.

    the clicking sound only comes from the back, i cant hear it anywhere else unless i get out when the car is parked, and stand or lean down by my back tire or by my back hatch. i dont think its anything to do with my oil, as i've changed it lately.. i don't think its anythingunder the hood, i think its something in the rear. when the car is parked nothing is moving around where i hear this noise, there arent moving parts. (i dont think). i'm sure it keeps on while i drive, but i cannot hear it.

    thanks :)

    PS) can someone explain what "tappets/lifter issues" are?
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The fuel filter is not that small. It is about 5 inches long and about 2.5 inches around and is somewhere underneath. Fuel injected gassers have large fuel filters.

    As to the oil, just because it was changed recently, does not mean it is full. When it was changed, it could have been have been over filled or under filled. Have you checked the level?

    Which back tire are you talking about when you hear this "clicking" sound? Have you ever opened the hood with the engine running to see if you can hear the sound coming from the engine? If you have not opened the hood with the engine running you need to do that. Many engine sounds/vibrations can travel down the exhaust system and it can appear as if they are emanating from the end of the exhaust system when the source of the sound may be from the engine or engine accessory under the hood.

    As to lifters/tappets, these devices are basically the same. They are intermediate devices between the camshaft and the valve that transmit the force of the cam lobe to an intake or exhaust valve opening and closing it.
  • i held the fuel filter in my hand, it was long but the filter itself didnt look very big.
    ill check the oil...

    i've opened the hood, it isnt coming from there only hear it when i am at the back of the car near both tires. it sometimes takes the car being on a minute or so until it starts and stops the exact time the engine is off.

    i have a feeling my friend is right about the fuel pump.. i'll let you know when i take it in for the recall. i'm going to have them check this sound out as well.

  • After my 5th and final phone call to chrysler on monday with no response and turned all my information over to my lawyer. I just can't afford to keep renting a car to commute to work. This week's problem is my trans seems to be going - getting stuck in second gear and stalling out at red lights. It only has 18,000 miles on it. All I wanted was to talk to someone maybe to get an extended warranty or a loaner car for all the time its spent in the shop. :lemon:
  • crdfancrdfan Posts: 10
    You and I are in the same boat. I have been going thru this for a year with my lawyers and from what I've been told Chrysler will try to out last you. I have owned 4 jeeps in the last 10 years plus 2 other chrysler vehicles, I would expect this if I wasnt such a good customer, but evidently they dont care. Good luck, I would like to know how it goes.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    crdfan: There is a way to save yourself some money with the lawyers fee, and get the results that is a basically what you want. But, no one can get exactally what you demand from such a huge corp. as DCX. Being realistic is a must. No vehicle maker will just refund all your money and take the vehicle back, it just will not happen.
    For whatever mileage you have on the vehicle, DCX will say that you drove that amount of miles. It makes no difference by Ford, Toyota, Jeep, or whom ever, they all demand you pay for the miles you got use out of. Even if 1/3 of the miles were to and from the dealer for repair, you used their miles (if they buy it back then it was their vehicle you were driving, and you used their vehicle and put miles on it) so you become a renter. I fully expect the miles you drove will cost you $ .50 cents a mile. If there is some very unusual circumstances they can adjust the cents per mile all the way down to no money for miles driven.

    If you have not followed the Lemon Law as it is written in the Jeep Bag in your dash, you won't stand a chance! Lawyers don't bother DCX or any other vehicle maker in the least! Remember these makers have a fulltime staff of lawyers and many are assigned specfic areas to defend DCX.

    I had a Caravan and we had it for 9 months and put on 21,000 miles. We were towed so many times and in some very hard to find areas. We waited several times for up to two weeks waiting for transmissions, motor flange that held the motor in place in the back near the fire wall. The power steering hose broke, the power steering pump and the rack and pinion went out twice. Water pump, two computers, ABS sensors went bad, timing belt broke, just to mane a few things. We were in the shop more than 22 times, and nearly most required over night stay.
    The Service Manager was really getting really tired of my being irritated and complaining so much to him. I was really upset but really did not know what to do. He said we was going to get a "pilot" and then I would drive with it for three days. This did take place. About ten days latter I got a call from the Business Manager, asking for my wife and I to come to his office that evening. When we got there, the Zone rep had a brand new Caravan sitting there. He said because of the many problems we had he would swap ours for the new one just like ours or pick a different one. The replacement cost us $12.50 for the State paper work.

    I want to tell you we had every piece of paper that had ever been done to the caravan, and even the Tec's name who worked on the vehicle, and any comments that any dealer worker said about the Caravan.

    We never got rude, and we always said to whomever that all we wanted was to be treated fairly.

    I know the system works as long as you have proof of what you say, and a record of what others who work with the vehicles have said. Facts can't be discredited, and if the facts are backed up with written proof it is a locked tight situation they can't worm out of.

    I have been aware of sever who attempted to follow the Lemon Law who got no where because they did not have everything they said backed up and organized. In a real way you have to be as well prepared as their Lawyers. Sad to say very few owners can be cool and relaxed, have what they are going to say well rehursed, and be able to find the materials when asked to furnish evidence for what has been said.

    The expert Lawyers vehicle maker have, are well trained to make you look like a foolish owner who was responsible for what ever went wrong with this vehicle. So know your presentation, have the facts in order, and have some humor ready to smooth over the rough spots.
    Good luck.

  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i run out with 1.5 gallon left also had a problem with tranny going in to third gear all the time would have to stop turn of key and restart would be ok for about a week chanced the pcm and it still did it replaced the tranny cylanoids still did it called crycler they sent me a heavy torque converter with a heavier pump works great haven't been on a trip yet but shifts a lot harder no slip at all
  • Hi, new here, i love diesels and my wife loves jeeps so i baught her a 2006 liberty crd (junk) 15000 miles on it and can't count how many times in the shop. At 13250 miles almost ran it out of oil,it had 3250 miles on oil so i changed it and 300 miles later it was below add,refilled and called dealer,took it in and they told me nothing wrong because it had no codes. I told them that the intake tubes were full of oil and they said that the factory put that in them, theu told me NOT TO PUT ANY MORE OIL IN IT AND BRING IT BACK IN 1000 MILES, but at 70 more miles it was low again and i told them it woulf lock-up they said that was fine. I didn't alow that to happen,after 1000 miles they told me it was normal to use 1 quart every 1000 miles and when it gets to 50000 miles to add a quart every 750 miles. This is not why i baught a new car. I have changed oil every 5000 miles and ues mobil 0w40 from jeep, any advise? Thanks greg.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    You are using the 0W-40 oil (big mistake). Use a synthetic 5W-40 or synthetic 15W-40 from anyone else but Mobil. Even Mobil does not recommend the 0W-40 for this engine on their website. Amsoil and Redline have really good oils. Shell Rotella synthetic is not to bad either.

    Do you have the correct dipstick for the engine? I have read somewhere that the incorrect dipstick may have been put in some of the CRD engines.

    Have a reliable diesel mechanic check the CCV system to make sure it is working properly.

    Check for external leaks!

    Find another dealer. They sound like losers.
  • Has anyone found a good CRD mechanic in Santa Fe, NM. Any experiece with the Litha? THe local dealer.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    gswartz: Someone is telling you a ball faced lie! No way on the oil usage, I go 5,000 miles and only down a 1.2 qrt. I switched to Shell Rotella 5-40w Synthetic. I think the 0-40 is fine in the winter, if it gets below 18 F.
    Call the Customer service line at 1800-992-1997 and make a request for some help. But avoid what kind of jerk told you oil useage like that was ok...It just an't so..

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I just got this recall notice concerning torque converter replacement and detuning the engine. Has anyone else done this? How much performance loss is there? How much torque is lost in the detuning process? What about fuel economy? Is there any impact here?
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Gswartz, Winter2 and Farout are right on. Mine used 1 quart the first 1,300 miles then slowed dramatically. Oil consumption virtually stopped at around 16,000 miles. It's been 4,000 miles since my last oil change and oil level has moved less than 1/16 inch on the dipstick if it has moved at all. You could also have a bad seal on a turbo bearing.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    I share your concerns, Winter2. I have been trying to rationalize how this would be done and what would be the result? I'm sure you have thought of the following already:

    One way could be to limit wide open throttle (fuel flow). But that does not make any sense since at wide open throttle engine rpm is high and torque is already low compared to maximum available. So that would not do much good. But, It would not hurt our mileage since we do not run at wide open throttle when getting good mileage.

    Another way could be to back off on the timing. That would cut torque and horsepower over the entire range. And, I think that would affect our mileage and performance.

    Another way could be to reduce the power temporarily during shifts. That might reduce performance and fuel economy in town but not affect fuel economy on the highway.

    Still another way could be to reduce the maximum boost. That might reduce all out performance but not affect fuel economy during normal driving.

    And finally, it could be a combination of all or any of these or something(s) I havn't thought of.

    Whatever, it sucks the big one because we paid for 295 lb ft of torque and DC should not be able to take that away. How much do they want to take away? It would seem like it would take a 10 percent reduction to do much good and that's 30 lb ft. What makes no sense to me is that I have never been able (as far as I can tell) to use full torque anyway (maybe at 1800 rpm in low gear) because the tranny runs away from maximum torque, usually before WOT.

    I'm going to seriously drag my feet on getting this done. However, I am afraid that DC will try to void my warrantee on the tranny if I wait too long to get the torque converter done and the tranny fails in the mean time. :mad: :confuse: :sick:
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Don't worry about the "Maximum Torque Issue". The engine has to be under load for this to happen. Even at WOT with the progression from one gear to the next max torque shouldn't be reached until 25% into that new gear range. The problem also seems to be at vehicle speeds above the 35 MPH range. So with the reprogramming you shouldn't feel any difference when pulling a load. Just unloaded. Don't feel bad check out the history of Nissan and Honda with torque converter problems. Be glad DCX is addressing the issue and not pulling a "Toyota". They just get rid of the model name and hope you forget about it.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Siberia, Goodcrd:

    Thanks for your input. I am going to make an appointment with the local dealer tomorrow to have this done. I will call Chrysler though to see what this really entails. As I get information, I will pass it on to all in this forum.

    What I do suspect is that the RFE545 trans we have on our Jeeps is a junior version of the RFE545 they put on the Dodge Ram trucks with the hemi. DCX has been making junior and senior versions of transmissions for many years. The difference between the two versions is not only size but also the toughness of the internal parts. What I learned was that the issues of the senior transmissions are usually found in the junior sibling.

    According to the recall notice, it should take the dealer 5.5hours to perform the service. If they find that there is more damage beyond the torque converter, then it will take them 6.5 hours. If the latter is the case, then I will ask them to put a Transgo shift correction kit that is available to fix some issues inherent to the RFE545.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: The transmission is just the same as trany other 545 RFE. Ours had to have the two filters changed when we first got it, and I asked the tec if there was any difference and said it is exactally the same as any other 545 RFE.

    On the recall I wonder if they change out the TC can we say no to the re-flash? I am not a fan of DCX's re-flash ideas. I believe I am calling the Customer I D C number and finding out what the re-flash is going to do. (I D C is I don't Care) We do not deserve any better, because we were so trusting we bought a CRD, with no discount, to be part of a 11,000 member "Test Market". We trusted DCX that they would treat their customers better than the Yugo treated their customers. I think DCX used Yugo's how to rip consumers off, and make them pay extra to be a part of a "test Market". Recently DCX called the CRD an experiment Why were we not informed? I must have a had a sign on my forehead that said DUMMY. I like the CRD but DCX's tactics are less than ethical!!!!

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    While running some errands this afternoon, including getting my Jeep washed, the engine check light came on without even a hiccough or a chime to announce it's presence. Once I got home, I did the on-off X 4 trick and the odometer coughed up these two codes in the following order:


    I can only guess that these two codes or at least one of them is related to the dreaded EGR valve problem.

    I will call the dealer in the morning to make arrangements to have this fixed along with having the PCM also replaced at the same time per Farout's experiences.

    As to your comments, Farout, concerning the trans recall, I agree about the re-programming part. There is a company in Texas that does nothing but modify the RFE545. Their torque converters are made with brazed parts and they use carbon fiber and kevlar for the clutch material in the transmissions they modify. I would like to see if DCX will use their parts in my CRD.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Spoke with DCX this morning. Got some clarification from them.

    According to DCX, the dealer will inspect the trans and TC. If no damage is found then they may or may not detune the engine but will reprogram the TCM.

    I spoke to this performance trans place in Texas about this issue and they thought DCX's approach to the problem was back asswards. Their updated TC is only $450. They have a shift correction kit available for $45 from Transgo that I will ask the dealer to install.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Winter2.. The code P0299 is The Boost Pressure Sensor(Pos. Deviation). The Boost Pressure is at the passenger side it has an small filter that look like a gas filter; There is a switch that control the turbo charger.
    you have to check:
    air filter
    air restriction
    check air leaks
    check the boots control vacuum supply
    boot pressure actuator and
    check turbo charger.
    The P0410 don't know that one.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I called the dealer and they did not want to look at it first, they ordered the Kit yesterday and the Kit came in today and tomorrow they are putting it in, I get a rental that DCX pays for under my Max Care Warranty while it's in the shop. I was in hopes that DCX would pay for the filters, but only for the oil they say. The Dodge dealer doing this does lots and lots of Diesels in Dodges. I was not pleased when the Tec that did our service work left the Jeep dealer I was going to. I felt the other diesel Tec has a attitude that gets me, and I don't need to put up with petty stuff. Not only that but they wanted two days to do the reca;; and I felt someone was milken the system.

  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Hey farout,I checked and mine needs the tranny work too.Problem is the truck is working great.We got about 10 inches of snow last week and it drove great in part time and fulltime.I'm almost scared to touch it if it's not broken but better go with the recall,at least it's still under warranty for a while.Got the oil change done this week and the tec and service guy are adamant on the 0w40.Checed the turbo hoses and they are clean.On a funny note the tec changed my air filter which i was supposed to pay for apparently, but the service guy closed the work order out too quick,he seeemed mifffed because the dealer had to pay $15.00 for it.I laughed loudly and said they make lots off of my warranty work and recalls I'm owed at least a free filter fo the aggravations,I also offered to trade my truck for any car on the lot,he didn't bite,heh heh heh.Guess I'll try to get this work done while I'm on holidays,I'll have tons of time to hang around and ask a ton of questions at the shop,happy holidays to all CRD'ers...
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    Thanks for the information. I will look at this on Thursday, my next day off from work.

    I went to the local dealer yesterday and they could not find out what the P0410 code was about. Rather strange. As to the P0299 code, the tech did stated that the K&N air filter could potentially be problematic but did not explain how or why.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout... As i told you month back that ever since they did all those re flashes my CRD was driving like a car well i think that my CRD is already detuned i never had any trans problem; The shifting is smooth but when i go in to the expressway 2k rpm is not enough to put me in traffic i have to go close to 3k rpm to blend in; So i think that the TC replacement will not do any difference to my CRD. Maybe all of those 06's are detuned and they do not know.

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The F37 recall applies to all 2005 and 2006 CRDs.
  • I have a 2006 CRD and called DaimlerChrysler to complain about detuning my CRD. I stated I purchased the vehicle because of the 295 foot pounds of torque and no longer wanted the vehicle if that was going to change. In a nut shell, they told me too bad, I would have to live with it. They wouldn't be having these problems (in my case) if they offered a standard trans in place of the automatic. I love my CRD but I don't want to loose any performance. Maybe if we all started to call and complain about it, they may go back to the drawing board and come back with a better fix for it. Their number is 1-800-853-1403. Thanks for allowing me to rant and rave on this forum.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: I had the F37 recall done yesterday. There is much better shiftine, especially when it goes into 5 OD at 50 mph. At 50 it's doing a hair above 50 mph. I notice no loss of Hp or Torque. The shifts are solid and firm. I am pleased so far. Hope this helps.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hmartini1: I am sure you are worring about something that is so small you can't detect even the slightest difference in torque or HP. IFyou have lost any HP or Torque, it would be so small I doubt you could tell.
    I think you are making to much out of very little. I suggest you have the F37 done and IFyou can feel any lose of HP or torque then take on.

  • Thanks Farout,

    I appreciate the info. I get mine done Monday.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hmartini1: What state do you live in? By now there has to be someone who can work on these CRD's. I wish you well.

  • Hi Farout, Great to hear no notice of Torque or HP loss! Did you learn any details of what the repair consists of please? Also, did yours need the front pump replaced and what was approximate duration for repairs?

    Any advice - like did you have filters or anything else that would be good to have replaced while they were in there? Do they cover any of that? Thanks for helping us all be smarter before we do the F37!

    1 more F37 related - Occasionally I pull 6x12 enclosed trailer with the kids trail motorcycles in it. I turn OD off. Can you tell me what rpm I may be running at 60 with OD off after the F37? Thanks - In Michigan w/ 2005 that I have put 30K on so far with no engine problems. Thanks!!!
  • I live in sunny Las Vegas NV.
  • I'm not gonna worry about it until I get a recall notice or have a real problem I have to take it in for.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I am having the F37 recall done on my CRD this coming Monday. I am going to try and speak with the technician(s) who do this to see exactly what they do, software wise.

    Kind of funny though, the original dealer I was going to take the CRD to do this is not even aware that this recall exists so I had to find another dealer.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I had mine done at the Dodge dealer. My Jeep dealer had the Tec I trusted, quit. I have gone to the Dodge dealer for several years before I got the Jeep. One day I called and asked if they could do warranty work on a Jeep. He said they can do everything but sell jeeps. So......That's what I did. So it is true some dealers ate not in tune to the world around them, that's the dealer to stay away from.

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Took my CRD to the dealer today for the recall and for the engine check light problem (came back on again after being off for two days). Should have it back by Wednesday.

    Got further info on the PCM (engine) programming from the adviser. According to him the torque will curve will be flattened and widened. He had no info about the TC. As to the programming of the TCM, it is whatever DCX decides to give us. The shift quality cannot be modified unfortunately. RATS!!!
  • I just finished an unproductive call to the DC help desk. They were either unable or unwilling to provide me with any information regarding how much torque would be lost. I refuse to believe that a DCX engineer or a team wasn't involved in the determination of how much power needs to be removed to allow their transmission to survive. I too think that they are going about this thing backwards. Rather than gut the engine they should resolve their/our transmission problems.

    I have a love/hate relationship with this car. I like the performance, but I have had it in for two recalls and an engine soft plug leak. My dealer continues to be superb----but I wonder who at DCX was in charge of this project. I have not had problems with the emissions system yet but I'm waiting. After purchase, I immediately installed a K&N filter and I have not used any bio-diesel------in spite of my strong desires to do so, and I wonder if that has been the difference.

    The bottom line is that this is my last DCX product. My other car is an Acura---great performance---no problems---superb dealer support. I want to by American, but I'm having trouble with the quality of the product.
  • I totally agree. But I just had the F37 recall completed on my CRD yesterday where they did replace the TQ and reprogrammed the computer. I was suprised to find it did not lose any performance if anything it might have improved it slightly. Anyway I am happy with the work my dealer performed on it.
Sign In or Register to comment.