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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Farout,
    I will check rpms @ mph next time out and let you know.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    5th Gear:

    RPM----Calculated-Observed
    1800--------62.8---------62
    1900--------66.2---------65
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    James171670: WOW! One of our CRD's is out of wack! Now which one is it? Maybe some one else can say what their CRD does. I will ask on the Liberty Diesel forum and see what is the "normal rpms.

    Farout
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    My odometer still reads 2% low after 30k miles. I would have thought that tire wear would have reduced that error by now. :confuse:
  • sjones15sjones15 Posts: 3
    after a maintenance run around in two cities, my hometown dealership finally found my problem.. the turbo boost sensor. how pertinent it was that you all were talking about it a few pages ago. It was replaced, along with a new ECM (?) and now the jeep seems to run okay. I still hear a bit of a whine/ wheeze on acceleration, and im worried there may still be air leaking from the turbo.. maybe a hose? I was looking to sell but i guess i'll keep it for now, but i am wary of problems, and if anything else gives me trouble, the CRD is history. And now after repairs, my cruise control doesnt work. strange.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    sjones15: Hey I guess I should not complain, ours kicks out only at little dips in the road. Guess what? My CRD is the ONLY one DCX has heard of with this problem. I have a hard time believing that. Keep records of everthing. I have 29900 miles and only 33 items have had to be repaired or fixed.

    Farout
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Caribou,where did you find a repair manual?I'd love to get my eyes on one,thank's...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Arvman, I bough two of the Bosch 'yellow' technical training booklets, the 'Chilton' repair book and I have the Jeep Liberty 2004-2005 repair manual in '.pdf' files as well.
    Each source has it's own interest.
    The Bosch booklets are useful to understand and predict the problems the injection system will encounter. The repair manual cd will mainly help you trace the error codes and be just a bit more helpful than the 'Chilton' book that you can have next to you when you get your hands dirty.
    In all cases I search the internet to access the manufacturer's database for a typical element or it's technical brochure. Because of possible copyrights I don't want to publish these files.
  • Farout, took a short trip today and recorded the following info: at 60 mph after 5 gear lockin i recorded 1800 rpm. At 65 mph = 1900 rpm, 70 mph = 2050rpm, and 75 mph = 2200 rpm.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    James1766470: Well we are sorta close, and the difference could be the tires we have. I have 245/70/16 with 25,000 on them. I had a flat and had to put on the orignal sapre and they seemed very close with the new tires sligltly smaller due to tread ware. Thanks. I think neither of us can do 70mph at 1800rpm.Maybe we got short changed?

    Farout
  • I hope someone can help me with a strange problem I'm having with my CRD.

    I had the F37 recall (torque converter replacement) completed Dec 2006. Soon after I found that when I turned the vehicle off and removed the key, the radio would mysteriously come back on and it was as if I had turned the key back on! This continued to happen, but only occasionally (it's a little embarrasing to walk out to the parking lot and hear your radio blasting!) I don't know if the problem has anything at all to do with the F37 recall and it may be just a coincidence.

    I was ready to take it into the dealer but the problem seemed to have corrected itself. It hasn't corrected itself and the dealer has now replaced the Body Control Module, the radio and the battery. They're stumped. I'm bummed. I can't trust the jeep and won't be taking it into the high country until this gets resolved. I'm also irritated because I LOVE the CRD, with the exception of this issue.

    Any ideas?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I experienced something similar:
    When stopping the engine and while it still turns to reach complete standstill, whatever I do with the switches screws up the Body Control Module. I think the BCM doesn't enjoy simultaneous changes of voltage and controls.
    I get one headlight turned on out of two or the interior lights stay on. I usually turn the key to "acc" position, do the reverse switching and this solves the problem.
    The same problem occurs on my professional car: It won't turn the windshield wipers on when it rains :lemon:
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Thank's caribou,happy motoring...
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    As my previous post indicated, I had the F-37 done in Jan. 11, 15 days later it blew, Jan. 29th and had to be towed to nearest dealership. There it sits. Can't get any parts. They said a new seal will be in on Friday the 16th. We will see. I think we must kick this up a notch, but not sure exactly which way to go. This is the 5th time since October in a dealership.The car is a 2005 CRD, 22k and 1-3/4 years old. Sitting at the dealership is going to use up my warranty. (I guess that really isn't a joke). Thanks for this forum. I have learned alot. Maybe more than I needed to know. I think we are pushing 60 days out of service, since October 13th. HamChamp :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :cry: :cry:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: You need to make a list of all the things and work that has been done. Call the Customer Care service at 800 992 1997. Ask them to have a higher up person review this. I would use the Lemon Law only as a last resort.
    We had our CRD in the shop 25 times in 15 months. Many times were for the same issues.
    Without asking Customer Care sent our case to the higher ups, then to DCX Headquarters. Then to the District Rep. DCX is buying our Liberty CRD for what we paid for it and we pay a mileage use fee. I am not at liberty to disclose that fee until this is completely resloved. We have almost 30,000 miles on it. We are to wind this all up in about 2 weeks. The big issue is to prove everything you have had done. We only had one oil change done by a place other than DCX.
    Being rude or angry will only make things worse, be cool and don't bad mouth any dealer or person, doing so makes you an adversary, and they reject bad attitudes. Hope this helps.

    Farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Thanks for your reply. I will give you an update. I had sent a certified letter, with the little card from the Jeep book to DCX. The same letter I sent to the dealer - A written copy for them. I have been pleasant at all time. I have my wife to thank for that. LOL Anyway, because of a past posting of yours, I called the 800 number. That really kicked it up a notch. That was this morning. While I was on the line, he called the dealership, that the Jeep was towed to, and the dealership that we purchased the Jeep from. He got back to us, while we waited. The part to fix the Jeep isnt available now. They have two suggestions, they will try another part number, or get permission to install another transmission. Also Customer Care is notify the District Mgr. I did tell them I would like it resolved between them and myself, and not have to use the Lemon Law. We just want a vehicle, be it our Jeep, or another vehicle, or a buy back. Thank you again. I will keep you all informed as to the progress. WE are to touch base on the 22nd of March. Sincerely, HamChamp
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchanp: It's so much nicer to hand someone a sweet flower than a pile of dung. Many of these people who are there to help are so used to being abused and insulted that those who are different, and show appreciation for the help, that they will go the extra mile for a kind person.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, I agree . Hamchamp
  • I have purchased a 2006 Liberty CRD, had the F37 recall performed and immediately noticed a difference in the power and a 2.5 miles per gallon drop in fuel economy. Have began the process of contacting the dealer and Chrysler Canada. They weren't been too response initially, but after I referred them to your forum they began to pay attention. For which I thank you immensely! Hopefully I can work something out with the parties involved, as I don't believe we have a lemon law in Canada.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    vancoverbrad: I acn't say about the Canadian CRD, but is did effect our CRD, enough that the passing power between 50mph and 70mph seemed like ut has lost it's get up and go. I am of the strong opinion that the CRD's in the US were no less that "test Market vehicles" that we paid DCX to do their testing for them. Would you have bought one had you known that there were going to be so many recalls?

    farout
  • Farout...there's not a chance I would have purchased this vehicle if I had known about the problems. I received a call from Chrysler Canada today with the message that they have no data to support my claims. I have sent CC a certified letter referring them to check out the complaints on this forum. Without the support of a lemon law in Canada I may have to resort to the media to gain some attention, and hopefully some positive response from CC.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    vancouverbrad: Each and everytime I took my CRD in for a problem, I called the Customer Care line. So not only did I have the paper that dealer gave me, I had a phone record as well. I was told Customer Care had 800 lines of information I had called in with. It does take time and effort to make a case. Unless you build a history with your problems, I am pretty sure you are dead in the water.

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Has anyone installed rock guards to protect the sides/doors?
    I'm looking for side protection without loosing ground clearance, something different to the standard boiler type of tubes hanging below the chassis.
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    I have the 2005 Jeep liberty CRD, it's been to the dealers a few times with things like the turbo boost sensor, thermostat and a few software upgrades including the F-37. Not sure after which software upgrade but the car started taking a lot more diesel. From average 8L/100km it now takes 14L/100km. The main reason I bought this car was fuel economy and now I might as well drive a van. The mechanics don't know what is wrong and Chrysler said that 14L/100 is not so bad. Does anyone know what could be wrong here.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Are you running USLD? Since they changed the boost sensor it probably has soot buildup in the intake. Run some injector cleaner in your fuel. Also clean out your intake pipes from the turbo down to the egr valve. Use a mild solvent which leaves no residue. Put it back together and clean your boost sensor with brake cleaner. Last but not least, change your air filter if over 10K. If this doesn't work it's in the engine. One more thing did they check your turbo? These VNT units tend to clog the vanes from moving. If so it needs to be taken apart and cleaned.
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    I'm running USLD. Thanks, I will try to run the injector cleaner and maybe look at the intake pipes. I'm trying to remember when it happened and I think it was before the F-37 change. After the boost sensor replacement the car was actually better on fuel than ever before but there were still problems with the software crushing and the car stalling in which case I had to restart the car. I took it in and they said they will work on the software and transmission. I never found out what they did because they didn't put anything in the computer. All I know is that the diesel mechanic quit and went to work across the street for another dealer and they had to get him in for a few hours to work on my car. He said he changed the software but it wasn't recorded in their system. After that I think the fuel consumption went up and then I was hoping the f-37 will fix that and it never did. And yes I changed the air filter which had more than 10K and it didn't look good. Basically I was told to get rid of the car but it's not so easy because I'm leasing it. I'm just wondering how much will it cost me after the warranty runs out.
  • crd06crd06 Posts: 2
    butchman,

    I also live in Michigan, does the weather really decrease the milage. I have a late 06' and have never gotten greater than 20 mpg. I purchased late fall so it has never ran in warmer weather. currently it has 11,000 miles on it. thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Msol... Make sure that you drain the air out of the fuel filter, that will fix your problem. Also warm it up and clean it nose, that will help; Make sure that you buy good fuel from a place that have new pumps and truckers goes a lot.

    Nescosmo......
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    Thanks, my car is back at chrysler, they have checked everything (they say) and found nothing, they did fuel diagnostics and some other diagnostics, right now they filled up the tank and are taking it for a drive. They will record the fuel consumption and make further calls. They think there is some internal damage but that doesn't mean much to me. I've had this car for 2 years now and it wasn't like this last year, it would take more fuel in the winter but not this bad. I have a feeling nothing will be done about this but they are trying.
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    Nothing can be done to my car, I feel bad for the mechanics, they were trained on diesel engines by 2hour video. How would you know even what to look for with all this knowledge. They have another customer complaining about this problem after the F-37 upgrade. I found out that my car has a new processor since it was fried during one of the repairs. What else can I say but who wants to take my lease....by the way there is a site for taking over leased cars and I found two jeeps like mine with a lot less mileage, I have no chance
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Msol... When you buy fuel it has to be free of water; If you bought a bad badge of fuel and the water went to the injectors, the CRD is only made to inject diesel not water. The water will damage the injectors orifes making them bigger and or destroy them. maybe the damage is not as bad as to destroy the injectors but maybe cause them to use more diesel.

    Nescosmo.
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    I think the injectors are fine but I don't know anything anymore. My car is now working great, the dealer said nothing was done to my car but a visual inspection and when they tested the fuel consumption it was as it should be. And they were right, the fuel consumption is back to where it used to be , I can go for almost 700km on a tank. It has been 10,000 km with double the fuel consumption and now back to normal. I no longer believe the dealer that have inspected my car, this is the same dealer that did something to it last year that caused this problem. I called another dealer who tried for months to figure out why this was happening and he said that they must of done something. I guess I won't try to figure this out anymore till it starts happening again but I have a feeling it won't.
  • The lack of power, acceleration and decrease in mileage is directly related to a mod change by the dealers. Chrysler required this change because the torque was breaking too many torque converters. I was told by the dealership that they couldn't reverse the change. A week after the change my 2005 Liberty needed to be flat bedded out of my yard. My dealer paid for everything and after some heated talks I got them to make a few changes. These changes almost brought back some of the things I liked about the Liberty in the first place. Before the original change I was getting around 27mpg highway, after the initial chg it was around 20mpg and after the last change it was back up to 25mpg. I agree with the person that we were used as a test bed because my Liberty has been in the shop more than all the other cars I have ever owned together and multiplied by a factor of 2. 2005 CRD 60K miles
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    dlmartin thanks for the info

    It is still puzzling to me, my gas consumption I thought got better after the last visit but it didn't. It is better but not how it used to be. It used to be 8L/100km and now it's 10.5L/100km and that is if I use Petro Canada gas station, any other gas station in Ontario will give me 13L/100km. I've changed the fuel filter recently and got new alternator(it went very quickly) but no change. It seems that the low sulphur is the issue in my case but I will look into the change you have made
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    10.5 is what I've been getting over the past 4 years. This is the typical fuel consumption of the 150 HP engine. When you had more power, you had shorter acceleration time to bring the vehicle to speed; this was good for mileage figures probably because the converter was less involved (% of time).
    Air temperature plays an important role; low sulfur diesel will also be a penalty; winterized fuel will add one more penalty. I noticed that when fuel doesn't smell bad, mileage decreases. Nowadays after filling the tank I can predict mileage by smelling the hand that held the hose. :sick:
  • msolmsol Posts: 8
    I know the low sulphur diesel makes all the difference in my car. I found only one gas station that works for me and I try to stick with it but I think this car was meant for european diesel which is much cleaner. And I agree with you on the winterized fuel, I can see the difference on my car, didn't know about the smell...
    The bottom line is that in addition to all the repairs I had to do, I have to watch what diesel I put in it to get a good mileage. This car is a lot of work.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I agree with you it's a lot of worrying, work and money to keep it purring but it's the best of it's kind I've had and driven in 40 years! It's also true to say this engine was meant for Europe but Europeans buy more and more asian cars because they are fed up with the high sophistication and uncertainties of local manufacturers such as Bosch and other generic CPU manufacturers :sick:
    I still haven't the faint est clue about a replacement truck that can park in a tiny spot, carry 4 adults + luggage, have a real transfer case and get 5 star rating in a crash-test.
  • Has any one had this code come up? its described as
    Turbo/Super boost control solenoid A circuit low
    any help with a cause or where to look would be appreciated

    Greg
  • I a'm a hard core Mopar man so when Jeep came out with the 06 CRD I traded my 04 Liberty in. The CRD ran good for about 6 months then every thing went wrong. The Jeep lost all of its power and started missing. The dealership reset the CPU. It ran good for 3 months and did it again so they replaced the EGR valve. The Jeep did this over and over and over and they never could fix it. They replaced the CPU the fuel injectors the separator filter housing the wiring harness and other sensors. The CRD would run fine for a while then with no warning it would lose power. Sometimes it would lose power and miss and sometimes it would idle like normal but would not rev up. Every time they put it on their computer it said unknown code. The Dodge place worked on this for over a year and they finally gave up and they bought it back. I give them credit they stood behind their product.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I have the impression you are describing a throttle or boost pressure sensor problem.
    As long as the engine can idle (it then needs no boost, no throttle) it has "everything" to run. Did you buy another CRD?
  • No I did not get a another CRD because they don't sell them in the US any more. Jeep told me that the 2.8 VMMOTORI diesel won't pass the new CARB standards but what gets me is that they now offer a 3.9 V6 VMMOTORI diesel in their 07 Jeep Cherokee. The CRD Liberty was a neat SUV with great sales numbers so if it was a hot seller why not make adjustments so it meets the new standards? After reading a lot of these postings on CRD problems that sounds a lot like mine I believe they stopped selling them because of all of these problems they are having. I'm still in a MOPAR product just not a Jeep CRD.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    The VM engine is modern and reliable nowadays. It's just the accessories (not built by VM) that fail statistically by batch. This is typically what you get when you want to save a few pennies over a few thousand units of a given currency :sick:
  • tyvoletyvole Posts: 1
    Hello, I just purchased a 2005 CRD with 53K miles from CarMax. I drove it for a week and then noticed a burning smell and a bit of white smoke coming from the turbo, or the area around the turbo. This only happens after the turbo has been engaged and will disappear after the truck idles for a while. I took it back to CarMax who punted it to a Chrysler dealer, who in turn punted it to a Jeep specialist. They replaced the turbo (which was covered under the 7/70,000 warranty) but must not have driven it, because when I picked up the car and drove it all of 6 miles to work, the problem persisted. Has anyone seen anything like this? At first I thought that they left some grease on the turbo housing after the repair, but it appears that the quantity of smoke is the same. The truck is back at the jeep dealer, but I figgured I could lead them in the right direction if anyone has seen this before.

    Thanks!!
  • spike291erspike291er Posts: 2
    I 2 have turbo problems, the check engine light went on and brought it to jeep and they said that it was the turbo. but I didnt know there was a recall on the torque converter cause in the morning if i just start the truck and tack off the jeep tacks for ever to tack off. I have to wait in summer at least 2 min then the truck will go. go figure
  • sport99sport99 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 jeep liberty and my dad and i were trying to find the fuel filter but could not find it... Where is the filter located?? And by the way, is the fuel filter non-serviceable so that i never have to replace it??

    Thanks.
  • Hi all you Jeep Liberty owners,

    I am new to the forum and juat wanted to say Hi and to thank whoever started this up. I own an 04 2.5 CRD Sport with the VM engine and manual gearbox,had a problem with the transfer case postion sensor showing that I was in 4x4 high ratio part time when I was really in 2 high rear wheel drive. Thanks to Richard and a diagram sorted in minutes!

    I see some people giving the VM engine some bad press, let me say that over here in Europe ( UK ) we have had variants of these engines for many years and they really are stonking bullet proof motors, the real problem is the electronic emmission control crap that the makers are forced to hang on them so we can save the planet!
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi andymcrey,
    Are you concerned or/and aware of the modification of the oil hoses running vertically along the right hand side of the 2.5 Ltr engine?
    I have the first generation of the 2.8 Ltr that's similar to yours. There is a kit with a large clamp for holding the rubber hoses and preventing them from getting loose after a few hours of tough riding. Do you go offroad or is it forbidden and regulated like on the continent?
    By the way, have you disconnected your EGR valve by plugging its vacuum tube? The newer rigs can't do it this way.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
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  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Just in case you intend to replace your alternator, get hold of a 7mm hex key plus a 7mm closed ring wrench (offset or flat) before you start.

    To remove the alternator, there are two long bolts:
    - One is close to the engine (where the serpentine belt passes); you will need to pass the hex key through the ring wrench first and use both tools to remove this soft steel bolt. This is a pain because 7mm hex is not really standard and the low profile female hex bolt head should have been made a little harder :(
    - The other bolt uses standard sizes (13 and 15mm).

    The ring wrench can apply torsion onto the hex key right next to the head of the bolt without the risk of widening the female hex. The complete alternator changing time including battery disconnection / re connection, serpentine belt removal and reassembly took me less than 30 minutes once I had the 7mm hex key in hand.

    Once I re started the engine, I measured the new alternator output:
    - Idling voltage immediately reached 14.20 Volts A/C was still 'ON'
    - With front and rear fog lights + headlamps + blower set to '4' + mirrors and boot de-icing I measured 13.70 Volts at idle speed.
    - There is no voltage loss between the alternator body and vehicle ground. The same applies between the '+' terminal of the alternator and the '+' of the battery.
    - Measured AC ripple is less than 25 mV with the new regulator. This value was measured 9 times higher (.23V) when the regulator had gone.
  • Hi caribou1,
    Sorry I haven't replied before now, yes I have had the mod for for securing hoses although never had a problem with it anyhow. I have disconnected both the EGR and air flow meter to try and get some more mpg as the price of fuel here is crippling, can stretch out to about 34 mpgbut a lot less when towing.Off roading here is very different to the US thanks to all the 'friends of the earth' I use mine to get me to rural areas where I shoot wild game and am really pleased with its off road ability, as good as a Land Rover Defender but with creature comforts!
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