Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently switched from a luxury sedan to a luxury SUV?
A reporter would like to talk to you; please reach out to [email protected] by 7/25 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair



  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Try the bleeding of the fuel filter. It only takes about 5 minutes and will eliminate one cause for a shudder. As for your dip stick popping out. Have the dealer replace it. It is held in due to the shape of the plug end. If it is distorted or the tube is distorted it won't stay in. I've had mechanics damage these kinds of things when removing things like Transmissions. Have them repair it.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    The filter doesn't need replacing till 25K. There is another reason I would like you to bleed your filter. I want to see if your sucking in air. A loose hose fitting will allow air to get pulled into your fuel lines with the engine off. The weight of the fuel trying to drain back into the tank can pull air into a loose fitting on your fuel lines. This drives mechanics nuts. When you start the engine it will pump the fuel from the tank with the air being collected at the fuel filter. When you floor it some of the air can pass into the injector lines and cause a surging or shuddering until the air clears. So to see if this is occurring you need to bleed the filter and check for air in the system. If you have air returning after you have recently bled the filter then you have a leak. The leak will not always show with fuel coming out. It could be allowing air to get in. With what you have stated about having the recall just done, they may have disturbed a fuel line fitting while doing the recall work.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    I have found out that all screw clamps on our CRDs need to be snugged down or at least checked monthly. I have been doing this since new and have had no problems. Do not over tighten the clamps as they could either break or eventually cut the hose they are meant to hold.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Goodcrd.... Thank you for the tip I did it and at first it came like a foam, then i pump again and solid fuel came out, then pump again and solid fuel came out. after that took it for a ride and you were right no shudder. Now that you told me about the hoses tomorrow i will check all the fuel hoses and bled it again. Thanks again.

    nescosmo Happy Holidays
  • We just had F37 and F23 done on Tuesday. The first thing we noticed was that it shifted harder in going from 2nd into 3rd, but not roughly. Some shift points are also at lower RPMs. Today the Engine Malfunction light came on. I tried the on-off-on-off..... procedure with the ignition, but cannot get the engine code to come up. Is there another trick to this? :confuse:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Goodcrd..... What a life i check all the hoses and the tank hose, (take hose was not too secure and went and secure all the other one to make sure. I pump again and bled, you can not imagen how much air came out of the fitting i did this until there was only fuel coming out. it run so smooth now, i use to have some small jerk running the CRD and i thought that if was the road, but now all is gone and not shudder, that is good.


  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Your more then welcome. The mechanics and dealers working on these CRDs are treating them like gas powered vehicles. They really don't have the day to day exposure to diesel powered vehicles. When you bring it in for service the first thing they do is retrieve the codes and look for a quick answer. They need to think of how this thing works. The mechanical engine parts are easy to diagnose. Once an engine part goes it goes and would bite even the worst mechanic. But fuel system related issues need for the mechanic to think of how the system functions and take the time to check, not just go for whatever is the quickest answer. The only thing which I feel will cause long term problems with this vehicle is the EGR system. It should calm down but will most likely cause us CRD owners to replace the EGR valve components every 60k to 70k miles. The large diesels equiped with EGR valves went through the same sequence of problems a few years ago but has calmed down to a manageable few problems now. With the change over to ULSD three years ago for one district in the fleet I manage the issue is gone. It took a few years for these systems to be redesigned to handle the LSD. This will be a good vehicle soon. But first you must find a good diesel mechanic who takes pride in his work and has the experience to back it up. The shuddering CRDs owners should check their fuel systems for air before thinking its trans related. And yes, this problem of shuddering will damage the trans if left unresolved. The only time mine ever shuddered was after I changed the fuel filter. I felt it as most describe it, around 55 mph after accelerating hard. And yes when I got home I bled the air out of the fuel filter and replaced a bad hose section going into the filter housing. I must has disturbed it when changing the filter. I now purge the filter once a month and have had to tighten some fittings twice to repair the air in fuel problem. I may replace these line with steel braided ones later. These rubber hoses with these clamps suck.

    Merry Christmas and God Bless All.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Goodcrd....Do you know if the thread of the oil plug is 5/8x18 or 16mmx1.5 i have ? about this; there are two oil valve that i can use but i do not know what to do.

  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    I'm not sure. I have both metric and standard tool sets. If you have a thread gauge usually found in a tap and die set, just measure it with the gauge. The 18 on the standard 5/8x18 plug means 18 threads per inch and the 5/8 means 5/8" round stock. Same with the metric just using the metric scale. If no tap & die set measure it with a ruler and count the threads per inch.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Find another dealer who cares. Make sure it is a five star. Good luck. Also it will take 500 miles for the adaptive learn mode adjusts to your diving habits. If it doesn't get better take it to another dealer.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Looks like someone screwed up at the dealer. I have had the F37 surgery on my CRD and FE is unchanged. Drivability is better however.

    Goodcrd's suggestion is worthwhile, find another dealer with a better reputation.
  • Goodcrd: We have a 2005 Liberty Diesel and we really like it. We had our recall work done (ball joints and F37 converter repairs/replacements). We have taken the Jeep in at least three times for the engine service light which keeps coming on or never going off, even after all the work has been completed. After having the car for three days doing the recall stuff, the darned light came back on after I drove it about three miles. I have printed out your information about the air in the fuel lines and will have him do a check for air in the line. When we ran the little computer on the jeep, the number 401 comes on and says "egr insufficient flow" - well, damnit, they changed the egr just this week - and this was the third egr replacement.

    Unfortunately, we only have one Jeep dealer in town so getting a "good or reliable" mechanic that will qualify for the long term maintenance contract we bought is probably out of the question. The first time I took my Jeep in for its first oil change the problems started. First, I noticed an oil leak that had not been there before. It gradually got worse. Then as I was driving down the road, I happened to look up at the little sticker they put on your car for your next oil change and it said THEY PUT 10w-30 oil in my diesel!! OMG - I rushed over to the dealer and they changed it out - but I have always wondered, did it cause any damage? Oh, and that oil leak, well, it seems who ever changed the oil, stripped the place where the screw goes into (don't you love my descriptions) and they didn't say a darned thing, just said okay it's okay now. Then my husband changed the oil and he said the whole thing was stripped out - so back I go to the dealer. Oops, we need to replace the oil pan and oh by the way, the transmission pan needs to be replaced because it has a leak too. Well, the transmission pan is still leaking but the new oil pan worked out.

    We love our jeep, it totally fits for our ideals of hooking it up behind our big ole RV and taking off on retirement day, soooo, any new information you might be able to give me would be welcome. There are too many threads to read but you seem to really know your stuff so if you could just give me any good news other than to try and find another mechanic!!! Thanks
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    It sounds like your PCM may be bad. Or a bad sensor giving false information. As for the trans pan leaking make the dealer fix it right!! Have your Husband go over all the hoses and lines and check for leaks or being collapsed. Restricted flow doesn't always mean the EGR valve is bad.

    When you find a good mechanic. Keep him!!! Good Luck.
  • I will send hubs right out to the garage so he can check all those lines, etc. We have paper under the jeep right now to see if the tranny is leaking again. Okay, I will tell the mechanic the PCM might be bad (what the heck is a PCM) all these silly letters are driving me nuts - are you sure is isn't pms?? That's what my husband calls it! LOL ;)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That would be the Power Control Module.

    tidester, host
  • Took my 05 Liberty Diesel in for F37 today. Dealer called and says after removing transmission they find rear main seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. I'm the only owner and mostly easy HW miles = 30,500. Little surprised it needs to be replaced already, but glad it is getting done now - under warranty. Seal is ordered and all work should be completed sometime tomorrow. My fingers are crossed on the results of the F37!!
  • Well, I took the little Liberty down to the shop with these posts in my hands. I explained about the PCM needing to be changed along with the EGR thingies! Although they listened, I think they thought I was "full of it" but humored me all the same. Friday I called the dealership and was offered a rental car because while they were changing a different EGR valve, they broke something while trying to remove it. So now i have this cheap little Ford Focus and six days later I am still waiting for my Liberty to come back home. Okay, I will quit whining now, but it still upsets me to no end that I may have to drive this piece of crap Ford to Las Vegas because my car will still be in the shop.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    The reason DCX dealers use Ford Focus's to rent out is if you drove a Caliber, you would find out how cheap a car can get! At least the Ford gets much better fuel mileage. I am not a Ford person either!
  • I still have the rental, parts did not come in so car was not ready by Monday. Here it is Wednesday, still no car. LOL about the Ford, last time I made them rent me a Hummer - talk about a trip - it broke down on me on the highway! Ended up with a Tahoe. Worse this time is that husband's '93 Diesel Dodge pickup is having transmission problems and he just had the transmission replaced. Too bad we don't have a decent bus route here!
  • Following-up to share my experience with completion of F37: 2005 Jeep w/ build date of 01/05. Carefully considered two different 5 star dealers and took to one that completed two F37s with no issues. Explained that F37 procedure varies based on VIN, they acknowledged & agreed. Got a call mid-day that part of recall was to inspect rear main seal. Weepage is okay, but seepage is not. Though I did not have oil on floor of garage yet they saw enough oil below the seal to believe the beginning of seepage. Rear main seal was ordered - would be in next day. Next day - installation of seal and torque converter went fine. Re-programming TCM was causing engine light on. TCM not taking flash. Their transmission specialist and their electronics master tech was on it. Found that Battery in Jeep was causing problem with the Flash update. Temporarily replaced with larger battery & flash update worked. Put original battery back in - works fine - they were done and washed it by 5:15. The service department was great to work with. They admitted this particular recall was a little challenging. Results: Light acceleration - I don't really notice anything. In a hurry - notice RPMs rise higher before shift and shift is more pronounced - a good thing. It is still just as "peppy" and fun to drive even from stop - YES - whew!!! On mine, one definite change is that 5th gear occurs at 60 rather than 58 now. After shift to 5th, you can still drop mph back to 56 and it will stay in 5th and run at 1,600 rpm. However, get impression engineers would rather have engine rpm @ cruise closer to 2000 now than 1600 since it runs @ about 1800 at 55 in 4th and about 1800 in 5th @ 60 (maybe...who knows?). Also, could just be me, but on the way to work this morning, I'm pretty sure it is now peppier at highway speeds (not as spongey). Don't know MPG yet, but will check. Even though it did take two days, the recall was free and in my opinion the driving performance is improved. Hope that helps. Butchman
  • Well my (lemon) Liberty torque converter went before i even knew about the recall and detroyed the trans. When it was towed in they said the re-call was going out next week. It took them 11 days to do all the repairs. So as of owning this vehicle for 1 year now, the dealer had it for a total of 40 days! As of Jan. 8th., my lawyer as put them on notice for a lawsuit to be filed. I don't think much will happen, however maybe I can get an extended warranty out of this mess so I don't have to pay for these repairs. So far the dealer has billed chrysler close to $8,000. However with the new torque converter and trans. I still get 27mpg
    so i can't complain. :lemon:
  • Im new to the forum, and have a 2005 liberty CRD. I have had continual issues with the check engine light, involving EGR, glow plugs and transmission problems. Most recently i have experienced a major problem with the turbo. At a stoplight i heard a thud, and then the light came on. The jeep now strains going up any hint of a gradient; with the pedal to the floor even on level roads the jeep wont go more than about 35 mph. The mechanics said the codes on the check engine light were valves (?) in the turbo. Im guessing this is affecting compression in the cylinders but i really dont know much about turbos or diesels.
    I have had the torque converter recall done and i was shocked by the lack of grunt after the reprogramming of the ECM. I didnt know if anyone had any thoughts on my problem- if it could be only a turbo problem or if it could also be related to perhaps a mistake during the recall repairs.
  • geedubbgeedubb Posts: 34
    I had my recall done last week. I'm pretty disappointed at the performance drop. The Liberty is not at quick, shifts harder and at higher rpm. Then yesterday I had an engine hesitation, similar to a gas engine electrical misfire, when starting off from a traffic light, no warning lights appeared so may have been air in the fuel line.
    The turbo doesn't seem to have that "kick in the pants" boost it had before. I don't know how the changes will affect fuel economy.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The PCM and the TCM have to relearn your driving style. That may take several hundred miles. The remapping of the engine controller does take some of that kick in the pants to keep the engine from destroying the trans. Just give it some time.

    I have had the F37 done and find that it is easier to modulate the throttle from a dead start. The firmer shift is actually better for the trans in the long run (less heat and friction).
  • Okay so i was a little bit wrong in my initial report. The problem isnt with the valves; it is with sensors in the turbo (?) They have gone bad, and now the ECM is confused about the readings it is getting, so its choking performance. This drop isnt just the drop after the recall, its really truly awful and the car just will NOT go. It feels like im on 2 or maybe 3 cylinders, and the car absolutely strains going up any slight incline. It barely makes it up the hill to my apartment. I was supposed to get it fixed, and have the ball joint recall done yesterday but they had ordered the wrong sensor so i have to drive this horribly running vehicle for probably another week. Its embarassing to not be able to accerate from a stoplight. Traffic honks behind me as i sslllooowwwllly approach 20 mph. what is the trade in value in jeep CRD? Im to the point that i'd like to just get rid of it.
  • ktangktang Posts: 2
    Now you have me worried! My 2006 CRD broke down on Dec.27 and is still in the shop! I have put less than 5000km on it and it died. The battery will not stay charged. They have replaced the battery, the alternator, modules in the computer and even replaced the computer itself. No lemon laws in Canada, so I am screwed. I contact Chrysler customer service everyday. They have given me a used sebring to drive. So glad I am paying over $500 a month to drive a crappy sebring! :mad:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    winter2: After 2,000 miles on the F37 and reflashes, I can feel a lack of torque. I noticed it when going up a hill on the freeway that I had not been on after the F37. I think DCX has a problem as people begin to feel how much torque has been taken. However I do see about 2 mpg more. So DCX taketh and DCX giveth as well.

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Interesting that you can feel a difference after having F37 done.

    I for one cannot tell the difference in torque output. Did some long hills (10% grade over three miles) at 55 MPH and accelerated to 70 MPH and found that the pulling power in top gear was still there and seemed unchanged. FE has improved though up about 1.5 MPG. I find, as I mentioned previously, that modulating the accelerator pedal is easier than before.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Hi Farout,

    I have not had the F37 done yet. I'm waiting until there is less chance of snow and ice before I have it done. Anyway, Winter2 may have a point, sort of. There may be another reason why you torque is down a little. Have you cleaned your boost sensor yet?

    Over the past few months my CRD has been loosing power and economy - and smoking more. At first I thought it was due to ULSD, then winter ULSD, then cold weather. My last two road trips netted 24 MPG - all time low. After cleaning the boost sensor mileage jumped back up to 28+ mpg which seems about right for winter ULSD. The dirty sensor causes the boost to read low and the input air temperature to lag causing improper fuel metering/timing, probably.

    It is easier to clean than changing a spark plug. It is located on top rear of the intake manifold on the driver side. It's right behind the fuel pressure sensor that is attached to the fuel rail. Just remove the engine cover and unplug the electrical connector on the fuel pressure sensor and the boost sensor. It's held on by one 4mm allen the goes straight down. It is sealed in the manifold by an O-ring that stays with the sensor when it is easily pulled out. There is a washer on the allen screw to watch for. The sensor cleans up easily with brake clean and compressed air or maybe just compressed air. Some use carb cleaner. I think that stuff is a little harsh to use on plastic but they say it's okay.

    After cleaning there is almost no black smoke - less than new. On a flat highway the engine rattles again running 60 mph since it's under such light load. Hasn't done that for months. :surprise: :)
Sign In or Register to comment.