Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - IV

maybequad2000

it would be great to have someone from DC finally listen to the people that know the most about their product and can turn their problems into solutions. I would join that club in under a second, if they would get my qaud here faster than next september. But i must say that i believe that such a thing would also help in brand/model loyalty. I also believe that the rest of us have moved to dodge because thaty have the answer to the versatility and looks that we were all looking for. as of today still in BG status(big surprise there). Boo do you have any suggestions such as meditation or visualization to keep down the anxiety attacks. Thanks to all.

newfie3

HELLO ALL QC OWNERS. GREAT TO HAVE A PLACE TO GET ALL KINDS OF GOOD INFO. I HAVE PURCHASED MY QC 4 WEEKS AGO. GREAT TRUCK. ITS A SLT (PLUS) TOW PACKAGE, 4.7/AUTO/ 3.92 LSD/ POWER EVERY THING. LOVE IT. HAVING SOME TROUBLES. THERE SEEMS TO BE ALOT OF BED SHAKE WHEN DRIVING. I HAD IT TO THE DEALER TODAY AND THEY SAID THEY TIGHTED ALL THE BOLTS. BUT STILL HAVE THE BED SHAKE. HAS ANY ONE HAD THIS PROBLEM. THANK YOU INADVANCE

bookitty

Maybe, don't meditate. I would suggest that you start drinking heavily until your Quad arrives. It
really makes the time fly past, especially when you're semi-comatose.

Bookitty

bja4

My key-ring light must have been burned out even before we took delivery. I never had any light burn out in my 8 year old Dakota. I will
have the dealership look at this petty thing when I get my oil changed.

texaszach

I may be completely off the mark here, could it be you have a wheel out of balance, maybe even out of round or perhaps a bad rear tire causing this vibration. How severe is the shaking, can you feel it in the cab? Driveshaft out of balance maybe? Towcrazy, Bookitty...ideas? Anyone?

quark99

At speeds around 45-50, I noticed some bedshake..but I couldn't duplicate problem, as it seems to depend on road surface conditions...
As far as the visor stickers...the ones underneath are the regular/extended cab Dakota stickers...(remember those guys have an airbag cutoff switch..) so I'm guessing someone at DC realized "oh shi-, that won't work" and just ordered the right stickers to be placed over the wrong ones. On solution is to go to WalMart, buy 2 of those CD holders that fit over the visor, and put 'em to use with CD's, matchbooks, gas cards, registration slips, whatever fits, etc.....
Repairs update-
Local dealer succumbed to my secret weapon regarding persistent bench seat squeaking/creaking...after 2 trips where I got the typical "we can't hear it/you know, a little noise may be characteristic of the vehicle" BS excuses...I uncorked the big gun (sent the wife down since she ain't workin' right now)...
Whaddya know? New seat ordered, loaner car provided if needed for free, and guaranteed it would be done early next week! Why? I don't know!
She can whip an "evil eye" on ya when pushed...
Got door sill protectors on the truck, already saved a ding when accidently banged the rear sill while loading cargo into the back seating area.
Looking for chrome brush guard (no headlight guards) to match the SLT chrome bumper, but Mopar doesn't show that model in the catalog. Any ideas?

themacguy

I believe we've reached it. Posters are now answering questions to me or others a full 6 hours before I've even gotten online! And they're good answers, too. Sure is nice to have so many friendly and well informed (not to mention excited) people on this site - makes things a lot easier. And an absolutely amazing variety of 'stuff' is popping up for the Quads as well. Thanks folks. This is truly a great site - one of the very best on the Web. :-))

ozark

I am still amazed that my mileage never seems to vary from about 17mpg. Doesn't seem to matter what speed I drive. All in all not too bad for a 4.7 4x4 5spd lsd 3.55. This is at about 8700 miles.

Still shopping for front-end protection as well. Would like to have a push bar that is functional(ie actual pushing surface on front end). Looking for black.

I am not sure who posted the suggestion about user profiles when the new Dakota club gets started but I think it is probably a good idea. Seems to be a lot of interesting folks on this forum.

I am (like themacguy) amazed at the growing numbers of posters (and I'm sure lurkers as well). I would like to encourage those who are just hangin' out to join the conversation. We're a friendly bunch that work at keeping our comments constructive and on the civil side.

For bpeebles or a_j or anyone with the manual or the knowledge. What WILL happen if the airbag fuse (passenger side) is removed? Will the airbag deploy? Or will the computer go nuts trying to find the problem? Anybody been brave enought to try it yet?

jones27

Has anyone else experienced a tinking noise from the rear end at low speeds (you'll have to turn down your radio and open the windows to hear it). I can reproduce it with the engine off by pulling up and down on the bumper. It sounds like the springs are popping, but I'm not sure. Had the dealer check it once, but he didn't fix it. Will go back in on Saturday........

I mentioned to him about the right rear wheel.....his response was, it must be normal if they are all like this. I said, "BS!" It appears as if my axle is actually longer on that side, not that the bed is misaligned.

Measuring from the frame to the edge of the wheel well, the distance is the same. But if you measure the distance the tire sticks out from the frame, the distances differ by 3/4" or so. This tells me that it is the axle, not the bed. Any other thoughts before I pursue this any farther.

bookitty

Quark, Westin Automotive; Makes them with or without the side extensions, in black or chrome. Chrome model is 36-1850. I am providing the URL. They can be purchased through Atlanta Auto, who have received very good reports on this forum, for price and service. I will provide a URL for them as well.
http://www.westinautomotive.com/
http://www.atlantaauto.com/

Call them to confirm fit for 2000 Dakota. They do not specifically show the Pusher by itself, but Westin does make one. Hope this helps.

Bookitty

ahasher

Time (ok, actually overdue: 4000 miles) for the first oil change. I have seen several references to types/brands of oil.. and I believe Mobil 1 synthetic would be best. However filter brand has never been referenced. Any preferences or recommendations out there?? This is my Saturday project so inputs by tomorrow would be appreciated.

A follow up to an earlier question, which drew no comments... has anyone attempted to locate/add the wiring to add the trip computer/compass? (that clip is useless) I have all the electric toys except that, and am thinking of installing it myself if it can be wired in without much trouble. Otherwise some other gadget and the auto mirror from j.c. whitney for $98 will work by itself.

Finally, for several posters about the weather strips galling off: the rubber strips between the doors (upper between windows) fell off on my QC almost immediately. I saw the factory tape was too thin for the job (uneven surface, and did not adhere well), so I simply placed a strip of new 3M 2 sided tape over the original, and re attached to the doors. A little pressure to ensure a good stick and it's there for good.

andy_jordan

This was a few posts back - but if you blink these days it's a few posts back - that is how popular this thing is.

I will try and explain the engine rpm issue without getting too technical - apologies if the result is too basic or too technical anyway.

Any engine is designed to work within an optimal rpm range - that is why we need gears in the first place. The dangers of over revving the engine are fairly obvious, though not as disasterous as they once were - far fewer stories of pistons breaking out of the cylinders these days.

What many people don't realise is that running at very low revs puts just as much (though different) strain on the engine. Without getting into the detailed engineering of it - much of which is thin ice for me anyway, a lot of forces are being put on the engine block and things bolted to the block (which is most of the engine compartment) in directions that forces aren't supposed to be applied.

Think of the suspension on a race car as an example - it is hugely strong when forces are applied in the direction that the suspension is designed for - but in a light collision they snap like a twig - an extreme example, but a good one.

Now in a strret engine you aren't going to do that kind of damage by hitting 5th when aiming for 3rd, but over a prolonged period of time the damage can occur. My philosophy with the 4.7 would be to keep the revs above 1500 wherever possible, top end is less of a problem because people just aren't going to sustain those revs - they'll shift up. I wouldn't run my truck above 4000 rpm for any distance, but there is nothing wrong with exploring the peak in the hp curve (around 4300rpm) during acceleration.

On another note, I don't know, but I imagine that pulling the passenger airbag fuse (assuming its separate from the driver's side) would work (this was the off roaders approach before switches) - bpeebles will be able to confirm from the shop manual.

gsu1

Ozark- 17.0 per gal is great I to have the 4.7 4x4 wtih the 3.55 rear end and I can't do any better than 15.9. Mileage does not change no matter how I drive.

Just to let you guys and gals know I call my dealership and asked about the chrome nerf bars and they gave me a price of $650 plus $50 to install. I asked why would I pay them twice the price of the Westin nerf bars, his only comment was I don't know. If Mopar wants people to buy their products maybe they should price them alittle more competitive.

bookitty

The Mobil 1 oil filter has been very highly touted in previous postings. I plan to use same at time of my first change.

Bookitty

iwantmyquad

Your expertise and sincere postings about engine technology continues to amaze all. You are a gentleman and a scholar.

andy_jordan

You guys are embarrassing me.

One word of caution about chrome nerf bars. The chrome will chip over time and a rechrome is not a cheap undertaking - remember I have an XJ-S so I know all about chrome!!!

If you want the shiny look you may want to consider the stainless steel - the entry cost is higher but they will last longer. They will still chip, but you still have stainless steel showing. Stainless steel can yellow slightly over time. but with regular care and maintenance 5 year old stainless will look better than 5 year old chrome.

Incidentally, as far as engine technology is concerned - I know at least one guy in the UK who may not agree with you. I was racing a Hillman Imp (if any one knows what that is). It had been souped up for racing and actually generated more than 100hp per litre (just as well as it was only about 1 litre bored out). I was changing from 4th to 5th when I was bumped from the drivers side (RHD) knocking my arm and causing me to go to 1st, not 5th. I don't think that the car's owner thought that I had much of an understanding of engines when he and I were inspecting the 4 holes in the hood that were left behind when the pistons flew out!!!!!

iowabigguy

I thought I saw someone mentioned that they hooked up a wiring harness for their trailer and while under the truck found a pigtail marked for the high mounted center brake light. They were going to verify that and I never saw a follow up message. Does anyone know if this is true and if so where it is located. I have a Leer 100XQ topper on order and would like to tell the installer to use this instead of splicing into the wiring. Thanks, Rick

steveeast

Was that a different gearbox on the Imp as well? I didn't think they had a 5th gear...

iwantmyquad

Rick,
Just read your post. Congrats on your choice of the 100XQ. Should be a great cap. I am picking up my Leer tonneau Saturday. Just went outside and crawled under the Quad. Also gave me an excuse to stand back and admire it some more. Look to the rear passenger side of the spare. There is a "Y" in the wire bundle leading from the front to both rear light groups. Near that "Y", there is a single-wire pigtail with a label marked "HMSL" (high-mounted stop lamp??). I don't have my tester light, but I'd be willing to bet that's the wire. I think you could run a neat pair of wires (hot and ground) from there, up through the tailgate gap, tuck it behind the rear bed post, to the cap's wiring harness. If you have a tester, try it out. If not, I will try it tomorrow and let you know.

andy_jordan

I was thinking about that before I posted - but I can't remember where the box came from - hey it was a little while ago.

I am pretty sure it would have been a bolt on rather than a custom - this wasn't exactly high budget stuff. Having said that I couldn't think of any of the Imp derivatives that had 5 speeds, but I may be mistaken - I just drove the things.

rotondim

You are not alone. I have been hearing tinking noises from the bed area lately. I have 1900 miles on my Club Cab which was built in the mid March time frame. My truck showed up with the bed misaligned which the dealers body shop fixed yet the rear wheels are not centered under the bed. I have had the Chrysler Technical Specialist out to look at this and was told there was nothing that could be done. So much for 5 Star service. It appears it is time to start writing letters. The measurement from inside the wheel well to a spot on the rear tires is different from side to side. Where are you actually measuring from the frame to the wheel well? I would like to measure mine as well. Thanks. I'll let you know what I find.

iowabigguy

That was a quick response, thanks. I just crawled under mine and there it was. Single wire white with a red trace. I'll have to check my "orange Bible" when I get home. I was looking earlier and only reference to the HMSL was a jumper in the wiring bundle in the engine compartment below the power brake booster.
The more I get into the workings of new trucks and the Quad in particular I am amazed at the engineering and complexity of the electrical systems. The only other thing DC could have included with the pigtail would have been switched 12 volts from the bed lamps. The camper light could be wired so that the bed lamp switch controlled power to that topper lamp.
Thanks for the complement on the topper choice, I priced plain toppers and they were in the $900 range so it was kinda a no brainer. I found a Leer dealer willing to sell on less margin so I got the 100XQ for $1095 plus whatever options I wanted to add were at his cost. I hope it will be here by next Thursday but if not the following week for sure. Rick

bookitty

Andy, that's the problem with the British. No sense of humor (humour) in either accepted spelling. My Dad's relatives (grandparents) lived in London around Trafalga Square. Somebody who was from the UK was at a social gathering and after hearing Dad mention this, remarked to him; "Oh! I didn't know you were British." My Dad responded thus; "We weren't, we were English. We were too damned poor to be British." Blank stare, cut to fade.

Bookitty

ferous

I drive 90 miles round trip on about 30 miles of county roads, and 60 miles on a two lane state highway. I have a total of 2 stop signs, 8 traffic lights, and 3 small towns to slow down for, so I avg around 50 MPH driving speed.
I was stuck behind a 18 wheeler (OK not stuck, but didn't need to pass) and the computer said I was getting 30 MPG in his draft. Travel 20 miles like that and your MPG goes up quickly.

ferous

I camped in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula this past weekend and drove the Quad up to the SOO LOCKS to watch the freighters go from Lake Superior to Lake Huron. I looked for you on the “other” side, but didn’t see ya. I know there is a lot of space up there, but it’s the thought that counts. RIGHT...

andy_jordan

But I think your eyesight would have had to be pretty good to have seen me from there.

gsu1

O.K. I know this is not a Quad Cab question but if you have ever been to another group you know that most of them just whine and hardly ever give good helpful information like we have in this group. My question has to do with Jeep Grand Cherokees. I know some of you have said your wifes drive them. I don't know if you have noticed how bad the headlights are and the fog lights don't help much. I want to know if I pull off the factory fog lights can I use the factory wiring to install useful after marked lights. Looking to install Hella lights or something like that. Any opinion would be appriciated. I need to do something or I might lose my Quad to the wife.

lmeyer1

OK, if you're really anxious to find out when DC is going to start 2001 production of the QC, I figured out a way to get at least some information.

Every week DC announces its U.S. and Canadian Assembly Plant Schedule, and links to these reports are posted at:
http://www.prnewswire.com/gh/cnoc/comp/107608.html

You'll see that for the week of June 5 all nine U.S. assembly plants and all three Canadian assembly plants will be operating.

I looked at some old reports, to see what they looked like during the summer shut down. For example, I was able to determine that last year, the Dodge City Complex in Michigan (where I think the QC is assembled) was closed the weeks of June 3 and June 10 for model changeover, and resumed production the week of June 17.

The report doesn't tell you what was being produced, but at least you can tell they were doing something.

Sometimes I think the Net is too much of a good thing. For quite a bit of effort I got a teeny bit of info. Perhaps a bit of patience would have been better.

jmoreno

Hello everyone, I have been lurking in the background for the past few weeks. Great forum. Alot of knowledge here, I have learned alot about my these beautiful trucks and hope to learn more reading these posts.

I bought my truck used about 3 weeks ago. 2000 quad, 4.7, auto, white, legend cover, and stainless steel nerf bars. Only 873 miles when I bought it "used". Love this truck.

My truck also has the leaf spring noise, took it into the dealer, 5 star, and they said that they found out what the problem was and they had to order a part for the leaf springs. That was last week and the "part" still has not come. I will post as soon as it is fixed and let you know what exactly the dealership and what part was ordered.

iowabigguy

There is a new headlamp bulb recently available from PIAA. Its called PIAA Platinum Series headlamp bulb. It is said to be D.O.T. compliant, High Output and "super White Beam" they are rated at 55/65 watts, same as your present lamps but are said to put out the light equivalent of light of a bulb rated at 100/110 (working on memory now, could be slightly conservative here).The important part to me is it doesn't generate any more heat than a standard bulb so it won't melt your plastic headlight lenses. It does't draw any additional wattage so you won't overload your existing wiring. It is reputed to not have the glare associated with the "off road only" blue tinted HID look alike bulbs you see on so many of the "rice racers". They are expensive, just under $80 for a pair and are currently in short supply. I have a set on order and will post results once I receive and install them. I drive a lot on rural two lane roads and it is estimated in Iowa the deer population is almost double the people (2million or so Iowegans).
The URL for further info is http://www.autobulbdepot.com

As far as driving lamps I'd check the current draw of the standard bulbs. I believe the owners manual said they were 899 bulbs. If the hella didn't exceed the current draw of the standard bulbs you'd be OK otherwise you 'd have to install a wiring harness and auxillary switch to control them. Rick

zonk

My wife has a '00 JGC Laredo, but it does not have fog lights. We live in the county (rural roads), so she really hates to drive at night. So when we eat out is about the only time it's driven then. I have noticed that the illumination does leave something to be desired. The last vehicle she had was a '97 Blazer that did not light up the roads very well either, but the beams needed adjustment. After that it was some better. I guess I will have her beams checked out, too.

zonk

I meant her headlights, her headlights.

bookitty

My Mom once told me that I was truly amazing. She said that no matter how big my feet have grown (12) that they still fit into my mouth.

Bookitty

steveeast

Found a nice site for info on Hillman Imp gearboxes...

http://users.bart.nl/~franka/tech/gearshif.html

Includes some stuff on gearbox modifications by Knight Developments Ltd. There was a 5-speed box which appears to have cost 150 quid in 1967.

I guess this is about as off-subject as you can get :-)

andy_jordan

Memories.

Those were good little cars, loadsa fun and pretty forgiving. (unless you hit first instead of fifth).

rassom1

New to this forum. Very informative, keep up good stuff.

I presently have a 98 Dakota CC, 20,000 mile and it has been flawless. Will be geeting new one in 10 months as this truck is a lease.

Very serious about getting a Quad. This forum has been very informative.

Checked out Cars@cost.com and it now list the 2001 Dodge Dakota's.

Very interesting in that it shows as options as in
the Club Cab that rear window defogger is now an options and the tire and handling package now includes 16" tires.

The Quad cab listed 16" tires also but now includes leather interior with the buckets seats as an option.

Don't know how much of this is legit but check the web site if you guys get a chance.

Rassom1

steve234

The latest on my tragedy (to me at least) is that the district manager is going to make sure that I get the first 2001 Quad in his 5-state district. It still looks like I'm going to lose several hundred on the deal, but they are working on it. Right now, I have nothing but praise for the 5-star dealership in Vinita, OK. They seem to really making a solid effort on my behalf.

What you guys may be interested in, is that the dealer got his 2001 spec sheets in for the Dakota. My wife happen in just as they arrived and the dealer made a copy for her to check for any changes that might affect us. More on that later. They also said that Monday is the first day to order the 2001 Dakotas. Nothing about build dates. The estimate is that there is going to be about a $300+ price increase over the 2000.

This weekend, I will look over the paperwork to see if I have to adjust my order before Monday. I might get at least a little lemonade out of this. It is always good to find a dealer that you can have confidence in.

cyberdad2

I'm very grateful for everyones suggestions about hauling using a trailer hitch instead of the "ball in bumper".

The impression I got was that an after-market hitch was a-ok and that the towing package wasn't absolutely necessary for occasional (or in my case, less than occasional) use.

I'm not sure that a dealer would have given me such candid advice. Thanks to the royal court for your supportive advice!

Have a splendid weekend!
Cyberdad2

impy2

I have a 2000 Dakota club sport loaded, 5 speed 4x4. I do have the light group and sport plus group.

1.) Should my ignition light up at night. I see a clear ring around the switch, but it does not light up.

2.) I see the outline of my shift light (a little arrow) just below the "3" on the tachometer and it does not work. (I do not care about that anyway)

3.) On my instrument panel I see the outline of the words "gate open" (If you look close you will see it at an angle) but it does not light up when the tailgate is open, or when the key is turned on as a bulb check. All the other symbols light up. Do they use the same instrument cluster for a 5 speed and an automatic?

4.) Should my cruise contols on the steering light up at night. My power window controls do light up but the cruise controls do not.

thanks.

robbk6

Now you know the pain of parts bin vehicles.

1) Ignition light, probably not a light. I'm not positive though

2) Shift light, gauge cluster is the same as 4 cyl. Dakota. That truck with 5 spd probably uses an upshift light.

3) Again same gauge cluster as a Durango, they have a lift gate.

4) Most cruise controls aren't backlit, that would require careful engineering.

themacguy

The Mobil 1 filter is the one I've been using. Two good reasons: cold start bypass and non-paper filter elements. Also, most of the Auto Zone-type places in my area have been running a "buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and get a FREE ($10) Mobil 1 filter." Limit two deals per day, per customer.

steve234

Guys, I told you that I would update you on what I heard about the 2001 Dakotas. Direct from D/C, leather is in this year. That's right, leather interiors will be offered. Light driftwood is out and Bright Silver Metallic is in. The following is a complete list of the changes
new aerodynamic power/heated folding side mirrors
new front fascia
new 15x7 cast aluminum wheel
NEW 16X8 CAST ALUMINUM WHEEL
new P255/60R16 tire on 4x2s
new 265/70R16 on 4x4s
new I/P cluster with improved heater/AC and controls
new corporate steering column
new front door trim panels
new power outlet in floor console w/bucket seats
new illuminated center console
new interior trim colors, dark slate and taupe
new load shedding battery (battery saver)
new security system
new electric shift transfer case(dial located on I/P)
new single-stage air bag system
the electronic PRNDL on the 4.7L is now on the 3.9L & 5.9L
new AM/FM/cass/CD radio
new premium sound CD radio
new 6 button remote radio controls (added mode function)
new Homelink System in overhead console

I hope you guys find this as interesting as I did. No major changes, but I know some people are going to want the leather seats. I do have a question. Where is the Dodge City plant? I do not think that they are referring to KS, but I cannot find any other Dodge City.

lmeyer1

Great stuff. Thanks for the info.

I think Dodge City is in Warren, Michigan.

badassbob

i thought the same thing tooo...Only one catch though....They came off very easily and didnt leave any sticker goop behind...only problem is that underneath the decal is a screenprinted warning lable from the Reg/Club cab....I couldnt fricking believe it...they put the sticker over the screenprinted one to delete the airbag cutoff switch line from the reg/Club cabs....Just one more MOPAR Cost cutting idea so they only have to produce 1 visor for their entire lineup of trucks...

Later

Chad

badassbob

IOWABIGGUY/IWANTMYQUAD---> Ive been curois to about a switched 12V lead under the rear end...I plan to install a set of small 55W driving lights under the Reese hitch for extra backup lighting and illumination for hooking up a trailer at night (or the occasional blinding of jerks with high beams although nothing much bothers me up high in the 4x4 with the auto-dimmer)I would like to have a switched 12V that is hot when the cargo light is on...

I was looking through the MOPAR truck catalog and noticed ITEM#19, The Bed light and power outlet for the bedliner...it says that it has a power outlet that is hot when the switch is on and a light that activates when the cargo light is on...

This tells me that there is (Somewhere under there)

(1) a switched 12V that is hot when the key is on
AND
(2) a switched 12V that is hot when the cargo light is on

I think if we get the install sheet for this item, we could wire our accessories according to MOPARS reccommendations...The wires dont know whats on the other end whether it is a power outlet or a pair of driving lights (with a Relay of course)

Any thoughts????

Im gonna call D/C and see if i can get the install sheet faxed to me on monday

Chad

bpeebles

Thanks for the update. Great info!
does the;
new electric shift transfer case(dial located on I/P)
Mean that the Dakota is changing over to push-button-4WD (Such as found on GM S-series trucks)?

AM I reading this right?

impy2

I hear a click evertime I push in the clutch. (2000 Dakota club cab sport loaded, 4.7 V8 4x4)

The noise comes from the pedal as soon as it hits the floor. The only thing the pedal hits is my floor mat. (too soft to make a click noise) Is that clicking noise possibly the gizmo that must be pushed in, in order for the truck to be started. I have to push the clutch in or it will not start. You guys already knew that........duh!!!!

badassbob

The shift light is only operative with the 4cyl 5sp....Does not operate with the 4.7L 5sp..

I thought the same thing as i have the 4.7L 5sp combo...i thought the light was burnt out until i read about it in the Owners manual..

Chad

engine16c

For you folks that are wondering about the shift light. My service manager told me that it is on all Dakota's with a 5-sp. If you want it to work , the computer must be changed so the light operates. There is also a way to check all IP functions. Turn the ignition to on, do not start the engine, push and hold the rip reset on the odometer until check appears. Release the button and the computer will check all lights and needles. Pretty interesting to watch.

Have had my QC for a month now. 4.7L with 5-sp, MPG 19.8 avg. Have made several 300 mile round trips to Delaware. GREEEAAAT vehicle to drive and ride in. This is more fun then my '88 Trans Am.

texaszach

Greetings Amigos,

For those who had to wait for the 2001's, it sounds as it will have its own rewards, outstanding upgrades on the new models. Kewl stuff, eh 1meyer1? I was thinking about buying aftermarket 16 x 8 wheels for my QC and going to Bridgestone AT P265-70R16 tires, now it looks as if the factory is going to the same wheel and tire size.

Not much else to contribute tonight, except I was most pleased to see the number of posts today, lots of activity here on our little part of the Forum.

Take care and be safe all.....

Zach