Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - IV

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Comments

  • impy2impy2 Member Posts: 50
    Just a little thought.........Can you imagine if they could think of a way to put the V10 engine
    (8.0 liter) in the Dakota. I am talking about the same V10 they put in the Ram 2500. Now that would be a heck of a truck. Of course they would have to beef up the suspension and driveline, but with todays technology I think it could be done. I may sound a little crazy, but I bet most of you would like to see that. By the way, I hear that in the year 2003, Dodge is supposed to put the Hemi engine in the Dakotas. They will only be available in automatics, and I believe it will be a 6.2 liter and a 6.9 liter. I am not real sure about the 6.9 liter, but I did hear the 6.2 will replace the 4.7 in the year 2003. The Hemis were great engines, and got its name because the tops of pistons look like Hemispheres which gives the engine a high compression ratio. Has anyone else heard anything about this?
  • 2drive2drive Member Posts: 90
    Check out the latest issue of Sport Truck. As I recall, one of the Dakota Quads that was furnished to a SEMA supplier was outfitted in the stock frame with a 750 HP big block Hemi! Manufacturer's requirements were that it appear stock and be assembly line buildable. I don't remember the performance, but it was tested laying rubber in all six gears!!!
  • 2drive2drive Member Posts: 90
    If that Hemi in the Dakota does come to pass, I may not be keeping my QC for the next 15 years, or 400,000 miles, like I have planned.
  • badassbobbadassbob Member Posts: 78
    Oh man....I feel your pain...I did the Drawtite vs. Reese debate for about a month...The following are the applicable part numbers for both Draw-Tite and Reese:

    Draw-Tite
    ---------
    #75073 OR #75038 (Never got a straight answer on the difference between the 2)--->i bet the dealer sold you the one for the 1999 with the factory rollpan...i.e. 4cyl stripper with no bumper..

    Funny story about the draw-tite---> While i was talking to a drawtite dealer, he was giving me the "oh it mounts so easy" speech while walking me back to the service bay where one was being installed on a club cab..As soon as we walked through the door, the mechanic installing the hitch on the Dak threw his air ratchet across the garage and into the wall and said, and i quote: "These G-D DAMN hitches NEVER fit up on these Fu--ing Dodges" It was the funniest thing ive ever heard...If i only had a picture of the salesman's and the installer's faces..


    Reese
    ------
    #36047---> this is the 3-piece design which means the side brackets must be bolted to the cross bar and then botled to the truck (Uses Factory hole and NO-Drilling)Nice hitch but i didnt like the look of the 3 Long bolts sticking out of each side hooking the brackets to the crossbar

    #44018---> This is the 1-peice welded unit(Which I installed by the way)..Looks great and went on easy...I found a local dealer that sold the Hitch-ONLY for $99....NO Drilling and easy fit up

    All 44xxx Series Reese hitches come with the drawbar, Pin, and clip from Reese (Dont let the dealers tell you otherwise..I didn't need the bar/pin so the guy took them out of the kit and took about $50 off the selling price.

    Reese was by far the best looking hitch i found and i looked at them all (Hidden Hitch ,Drawtite,Reese,Putman,Valley,etc) Reese had the cleanest look and the best finish...Some of the mentioneed used the existing holes BUT you had to drill One Hole in each Frame Rail..

    Here are the websites for both manufacturers:

    Drawtite----> http://www.draw-tite.com/

    Reese-------
    > http://www.reeseproducts.com/

    happy Hunting

    Chad
  • badassbobbadassbob Member Posts: 78
    Sorry Something srewed up

    http://www.draw-tite.com/

    Chad
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    a_j (of course) gave you good advice. If you're pinging, change BRANDS not octane. The base stock and/or additives in your fuel are probably mismatched for your climate or use. Increasing octane is beneficial for even 'flame fronts' or 'burn' inside the cylinder heads - generally related to higher compression, spark retardation, indexing, etc.: general racing stuff. Increasing octane is not for minor problem solving, though switching brands should help. Try adding some Chevron Techron or BG 44-K before doing anything radical. If you've got carbon buildup or injector restriction, this stuff'll find it quick.

    I believe that D/C has said that the 4.7 is a 10 year (plus) design. Any new design should simply be that - a new design. I've heard the new Dakota ('03) is supposed to be in the mid 5 liter range, and several other posters have said similar things - who knows at this point. Either way, it looks like a larger displacement hemi (as opposed to our 4.7's hemi like design) is definitely on the way, and I agree, it'll be an amazing package. And in my driveway.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    What do I need to do to get the farm bureau discount. I'm not a farmer. Are there fee's or other obligations involved? Can this apply to a factory ordered truck?

    I'm also debating the 3.55 vs the 3.92. I know this will probably be a tough call. I will have a 4x4 quad with the 4.7 & 5 speed. I will tow a single or double jet ski trailer (1,000 to 2,000+ lbs). I am leaning toward the 3.92, hoping that the power difference will be greater than the mileage difference.

    Last thing, the Dakota brouchure does not show lower towing capacities for the 5-spd. I used to own a 99 F-150 5speed and the 5 speed was rated ridiculously lower than the automatic. Is the Dodge 5-speed just as good for towing as the automatic?

    Thanks guys.
  • blanzablanza Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new QC four weeks ago. 4x2, 4.7 liter, loaded. Great looking, extremely practical pickup for a family, comfortable, powerful for towing, and reasonably priced. But after shunning domestics for 8 years, I probably should have known better. It has been in the shop three times already for various ailments. I also had the misaligned bed problem and it still appears one rear wheel sticks out farther than the other. There is a whine in the drivetrain right between 60 and 65 mph when under throttle. There is flexing you can feel through the steering during any change in speed or cornering (possibly a bad engine mount). Screws were just left out of the third brake light and a piece of interior trim.

    It's not my intention to steer anyone clear of this particular vehicle. I may have just gotten an exception. But my last 3 cars were Japanese--one of them, a '93 Nissan Pickup went into the shop once in the five years I had it for non-maintenance repair. Ditto for a '95 Suzuki Sidekick, one A/C problem. My wife's '99 Suzuki Esteem has yet to encounter so much as a loose screw. That means the QC has been in the shop in the 4 weeks I've had it more than those other three cars combined--over several years!

    So, rather than face protracted back and forth with the dealer and regional reps, I decided to bite the bullet and trade it with only 1.5k on the odometer for a Mazda MPV. I estimate I had to pay about $1200 to get out of the Dakota. Meanwhile, I'll use my old beater Jeep Grand Wagoneer for towing and maybe I'll actually have the Mazda in my driveway once in a while instead of the service department. I just wish the MPV came in the Amber Fire Mist.
  • snowedinsnowedin Member Posts: 58
    Victx, the Farm Bureau rebate applies to all Dodge trucks (except 4 cyl.) and can be applied to a factory order or dealer stock . The catch is that you must be a member of the Farm Bureau for 30 days prior to taking delivery of your truck.

    There is a membership fee for joining the Farm Bureau that varies from state to state, county to county ect. My membership fee was $70 and others have posted fees as low as $35. Still, this is a worthwhile investment for a $500 rebate. You do not need to be a farmer to join. Some dealerships even process the membership forms for you. If the dealership you are considering does not, check out <<A HREF="http://www.fb.com/">http://www.fb.com/&gt; for the location of your local office.
  • jkinsleyjkinsley Member Posts: 20
    I've been lurking in the Dakota topics for months, learning much from all who contributed. It was through this group that I learned about the $500 Farm Bureau rebate and made informed decisions about what options I wanted. Many thanks to all in this group for all the great info (and a few smiles)!

    Ordered my QC 4/13, Black Sport, 4.7L, Auto, 4x4, LSD, T&H Group, Overhead console, power everything etc., all the toys except buckets. Had test drove a 2WD V-6 (all the dealer had in stock) prior to ordering. I figured the 4.7L 4x4 would 'feel' more substantial, but had no way of knowing how much, so I basically ordered one on a 'wing and a prayer'.

    The dealer called yesterday to tell me my QC came in. I saw and drove it for the first time last evening. Wow!! It feels so big, heavy, solid, responsive, smooth, .... could go on and on here. (Just a great 'feel' that I haven't experienced since the first time I drove a Land Cruiser). Very impressed!! In comparison to the feel of the 2WD V-6, well, .... there is no comparison.

    For me, the RAZ stereo was worth every penny. For my 'maiden voyage' I popped in a Doobie Bros. CD and cranked it up. About half way through 'Long Train Runnin', one could almost think there's a subwoofer hidden somewhere!

    Was pleasantly surprised by the range of the power seat. The fold-away 6x9 mirrors give a great view and are not 'elephant ears' as I had feared. Glad I opted for the bench seat. To me it feels just as comfortable as the buckets, but I like the folding armrest much better for arm support. T&H group does a lot for appearance and I believe contributes to that great ride and handling 'feel'. Overhead console is nice with more functions than I realized: an elapsed timer, outside temperature, direction of travel, instant MPG, average MPG, and estimated miles left for the amount of gas in the tank.

    What a great truck! Looking forward to picking it up (for good) later today after they finish all the prep. I did endure a 'Bookitty' type of experience last night though. After special ordering this thing and waiting all these weeks, I drove to the dealership last evening very anxious to see it. When I got there, it was nowhere to be found. Apparently, one of the salesmen had a 'brain fart' and gave the keys to some browsers, .... who took my new Quad for a fifty mile - hour and a half test drive (despite the bright yellow 'SOLD' stickers on the windshield). Sheesh!! Talk about being dumber than a bag of hammers!!!

    Look forward to learning more from this group! Thanks again to all who have contributed over the past months. It certainly helped me chose the right options and configuration!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Vic, now that you have access to the Farm Bureau, the next question we will address is towing. Unless you drive in extremely hilly terrain, the 3.55 will offer more than sufficient power to tow the light load(s) you are proposing. As a matter of fact, you will have to look in the rear view mirror to make certain that your trailer is still there. I would suggest that you order the 6X9 mirrors, as they would be easier to use when towing. In relatively flat terrain, the 3.92 will produce higher RPM and MPG will be somewhat reduced. Just my $.02.

    Bookitty
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    bookitty has the 3.92 / 3.55 speech off pat now, that let's me off the hook for the monthly regurgitation!!
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Member Posts: 337
    Apologies for not getting back sooner on the Fold-a-Cover install, removal, etc.

    The installation went without a hitch, though I misplaced a stop rivet in one side rail (a trip to the hardware for a replacement rivet, redrill the hole (through the plastic mounting rail and NOT the truck rail, so no big deal).

    INSTALLATIION IMPRESSIONS:

    -- Very thorough instructions
    -- Advise having a helper to drop the (folded) cover into place to avoid chance of missing the mark and scratching the bedrail (the wife helped).
    Locking it in place is a simple matter of folding it up, installing a clamp bracket to each bedrail (3 bolts with locknuts on each side)
    -- Removal can be handled "solo"... Loosen the clamp bracket nuts, fold the cover completely, drop the tailgate, stand in the bed, grab the cover and lift straight up (allow 10 minutes solo, 5 minutes with a helper).

    I have the "TA" (total access) cover, and like it very much... It allows access to not only just the rear, but also the front area of the bed... Very versatile!

    If you don't mind the looks of a textured black cover, and want someting versatile, I'd highly recommend it!

    NEXT STEPS:
    For what it's worth, nexts steps for me:
    -- Wait for the Westin step bars to come in (back-ordered) and install.
    -- Remove the cover, mask off mounting rails and take the truck back to Ziebart (who sold me the Fold-a-Cover) and have them spray in an over-the-rail Rhino Liner. While it's there, they'll put it on the hoist and install the Westin Light Bar.

    After that, installation of the electronic brake controller I scavenged from the Ram, have the trailer dealer install it in the Quad, get different hitch ball unit to compensate for lower receiver height of the Quad, and I should be in business!


    --
  • texaszachtexaszach Member Posts: 119
    Your story regarding the Draw Tite dealer and his mechanic is pure greatness! Some of those same expletives were let loose in my garage on Sunday. Thank you so very much for the entire content of your post, I have it printed out and tommorrow will begin my quest for a stocking Reese dealer here. Chad, you da man!

    bigal31....You were correct, baddassbob knocked a grand slam home run right here in Dallas, Texas this morning, once again this forum proves an invaluable source of information!

    lmeyerl....Tough call on the Double Cab. The sales manager of a local Toyota dealership here told me that Toyota has realized they need to bring prices down on the Tacoma to become competitive in the market and have started to do so. A comparison between the QC and the Toyota is quite interesting, though the Dodge wins in the value department at this time , considering the horsepower of the 4.7 V8, available amenities and price. I like that Toyota offers a factory supercharger kit for the V6 used in the Tacoma, Four Runner and Tundra, BUT its three thousand dollars. It can be purchased over the counter and installed by the buyer or the dealership will install it . I would think that the extra length of the Double Cab would offer a better ride than that of an extra cab Tacoma but I doubt it will be as good as the QC. Who really knows until October though?

    Jkinsley....Congrats on the new arrival!

    Take care and be safe all....

    Zach
  • bobsyveebobsyvee Member Posts: 63
    I would take serious issue with a dealer that would allow someone to test drive a vehicle that I had ordered. In Illinois, these vehicles are considered "Demos", and should be priced as such. You have no way of knowing how the vehicle was driven on it's 50 mile, hour and a half joyride.
    Vehicles from Chrysler that are delivered with about 65 miles, have a sticker on the drivers window, informing the consumer that the vehicle had been pulled and driven for a comprehensive quality check.
    I would say that dealer owes you something.

    Just to nit-pick:
    The Hemi name came to be not because of the shape of the pistons, but to the combustion chamber shape in the head.
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Member Posts: 215
    Thanks for the informative post. Will be considering the Fold-a-Cover when I get the truck. I like your idea of installing first, then masking off the rails. Let's you do over the rail spray in without screwing up the installation of the cover.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    While a v10 would be a wild machine, I'd rather not have to drive it to and from work. As far as future engines go, the 4.7L is here to stay and will be the mainstay Dakota/Ram engine for many years/decades. D/C is bringing out a new 3.8L V6 in the Caravans which is based on the 4.7L. The new hemi is suppose to be in the next generation of Rams (02) but may not be out until 03. It will be a 353 (5.7L) and is being developed as a torquer. Only time will tell if it meets the final cut. There is also a potential for a larger version of the 4.7L, maybe a 5.2. Considering the current influx of engines, this is iffy. Since most of these are development projects, it is still guessing as to what gets out the door. There is even rumor of a Merc 4.8L diesel being looked at.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    ABout MB diesels and hemis have been swirling around for some time. The latest series of Dodge engines - the second generation magnums have been committed to. The 4.7 is the first and we know that more will follow to replace the 3.9 V6 and the 5.9 V8.

    It is logical to assume that both of these will be hemis or at least near hemis (like the 4.7). It is also logical to assume that DC will be looking to put versions of these engines into sports coupes / sedans to coincide with the resurgence of the Dodge name in NASCAR next year and to get on the retro throwback bandwagon - I would virtually guarantee that these cars would be powered by true hemis - those that remember the hemi-cuda now have money to burn.

    It is a known fact that the Ram will be redesigned for 2002 with a more rounded, and fairly aggressive styling, though not a radical departure from the current models. These trucks will require new engines and larger versions of the 2nd generation magnums is obviously the way to go - will they make it to Dakota - well maybe, but I wouldn't put money on it.

    Finally the heavy duty Rams will be launched as 2003 models with distinctly different styling from the new Rams - I am hearing more and more about a very close approximation to the Power Wagon concept. The Power Wagon was shown with a diesel and MB are now pressurizing corporate DC to put an MB diesel in these trucks instead of the traditional Cummins. You can also expect to see V10s at this level, even if not in the 'regular' Rams, but as noted these will be bred for torque not hp, so I really can't see one of these being wedged into a Dakota, and whilst the concept is nice, I sure as heck wouldn't want to drive one on a regular basis - especially with all that weight at the opposite end to the driving wheels.
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Member Posts: 337
    I would venture to say that when Dodge finally produces the HD Ram, it should be quite a machine! Of course, Dodge will be a few years behind its competitors in doing so.

    Ford pulled a remarkable coup a couple of years back when it broke the Super Duty line (particularly 350 through 650). In fact, it created a new market all its own which spanned the gap between light duty pickups and what we knew as medium-duty trucks. Upfitters and personal-use buyers loved it!

    Then comes Chevy, green with envy, scrambling to compete, worked up the Silverado HD (due out next month I believe). It doesn't have the market "spread" of the Ford SD's, so it settled for competing with the Ford 250/350 series with high cards in both gas and diesel power and capacity. Chevy's 300 hp Mitsubishi Diesel mated to an incredibly strong Allison trans blew both Ford and Dodge diesels away.

    Now comes Dodge... And I suspect its HD Ram will be aimed primarily at Silverado HD... Better late than never... And it should be very interesting to see what the Dodge Boys come up with!

    I worked on training programs for both the Ford and Chevy HD entries, and regret that I won't have the same chance with Dodge on the Ram... Guess I'll admit to "wandering by" the test track surrounding DC headquarters (about 15 miles away) for a glimpse of the new stuff. Vantage points are tough to find... But after all, half the fun is in the "hunt!"
  • impy2impy2 Member Posts: 50
    First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their help on certain issues I had. I plan to change my oil real soon. I have the 4.7 V8 4x4 club cab sport 5-speed 3.92 gears and tow package with 31 inch tires. I want some advice about using Amsoil synthetic. I have heard great things about it and there is a dealer 1 mile from my house. It is rather expensive (6.50 per quart) but you change it every 10,000 miles (according to the Amsoil dealer......seems kind of long). This is assuming you use their microfilter which is supposed to filter 6 to 8 microns. (I guess that is good) My dad uses it in his 92 Lincoln Mark VIII and has seen better fuel mileage, and cold starts are quite. He also uses it in his auto tranny and rear differential. It shifts smoother and will coast a lot further. Any input would be appreciated.
    One other question (off the subject). Just in front of the muffler on my truck (toward the front of the truck) is something that resembles a catalytic converter, but there are no 02 sensors on it. Any clue what this is. I plan on putting a flowmaster 20 series on with dual pipes running out the back. Can I remove this muffler looking thing. Don't worry, I am not going to remove the converters. (I found them just below the exhaust manifolds.....there are two of them and each one has an 02 sensor) The thing I am talking about is about 18 inches long and is the shape of a cylinder. Thanks again.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    Snowedin & Bookitty
    Thanks for your responses. You can now call me farmer Vic ;)>
  • badassbobbadassbob Member Posts: 78
    One more thing i forgot to mention is why i didnt go with the MOPAR hitch over-the-counter from the dealer. I saw that the MOPAR was an OPEN-TUBE type reciever where the cross tube extands through the brackets and is open to the elements(ie. rain, road spary, salt spray, etc) I have yet to come across an open-type hitch with any age on it that isnt rusted BADLY...Mostly from the inside of the cross-tube running out the side...

    This is the one BIG reason i went with Closed-Tube (Seal-Welded) type from Reese...Most of these types i see on older trucks are in pretty good shape finish wise (at least better than a Open-Style with similar age)...

    I know what some of you guys are thinking: "Its a TRUCK and its supposed to look like its been USED" Well not my truck...I prefer to keep it looking showrom fresh(With the exception of the bed floor)...Some call it ANAL but i call it getting a better resale price when the time comes to buy the new
    2005(?) V-10 QuadCab R/T.........What do you think guys???

    Chad
  • roundrocktxroundrocktx Member Posts: 14
    On 5/27 I picked up my new 2wd 4.7 auto 2.55 SLT quadcab. The only options I went for were a/c (in Texas), power locks and the basic SLT package -- I was being too cheap. I actually paid invoice $21,364 but after reading this group for the last week and a half wished I had added the t/h package. I was not a truck person till DC offered the QC -- I needed to haul my old parents around and needed 4 real doors. My question is, can I easily add the rear stabilizer bar that is in the t/h package now, also how about the LSD? Can these be added now, or is it too late. Also, any final answers on added the overhead computer?
    I love the power in this truck -- this engine is amazing. I took on a 10 mile dirt/rock road and handled well, except for the turn posted at 25 mph, I took at 45. :-) This is the engine to get over the v-6. Never say a 5.9 to test drive in my area. Driving home from the dealer some guy driving an old chevy pulled up next to me and waved/honked at me, rolled down my windows and he said "Cool truck man, way cool". My first tank was 17.5 mpg, not bad and second was 17.45 mpg. My commute is too short -- only 2.4 miles each way and has a lot of stop signs.

    Now for the subject of my post -- I found info on the TOYota Tacoma Double Cab at http://www.toyota.com -- search for double. It's bed looks a lot smaller, says it has a fold down seat -- better than the Frontier CC but not as good as the QC and it only goes up to 190 hp via a V-6, no V-8. It only seats 5, not 6 -- one of my requirments if my wife were to have a kid all of a sudden. Hey honey, are you pregnant or are you just getting chunky? SLAP!! Bed size only says "more than 5 feet long" -- so I guess its about the same as the QC or slightly shorter.

    Then there are the new GM twins, these sound even worse than the Toyota (by my standards). See http://gmc.com/sonoma/crewcab/index.html
    My opinions of these one are the lack of the v-8, top v-6 is 190hp. I am surprised they call it a mid-sized truck. The bed is only 4ft 6inches -- 9 inches shorted than QC. Payload is about 400lbs less, 1125lbs instead of 1500lbs. Seats 15 passengers, 19 gallon tank instead of 24. Their brakes one-up Dodge, they come w/ ABS and disc standard on all 4 wheels.
    In sum, I am glad I did not wait for these. I didn't even test drive the Fords, F-150 SC was too big and overpriced, the SportTrac too ugly. The Nissan lost me due to its non-folding and small rear seat -- I needed the sto-n-go feature of the QC. The QC is the way to go. This board is great!! This is my first post, sorry for the newbie truck owner questions above.

    -Bob
  • impy2impy2 Member Posts: 50
    I made a mistake. I said earlier that you need to change the oil every 10,000 miles using Amsoil and an Amsoil filter. I just went to their website. (www.amsoil.com). It says if you use Amsoil and an Amsoil filter, you only need to change the oil every 25,000 miles. (normal driving conditions without a turbo) You change the filter every 12,500 miles. (add 1/2 quart when changing filter) The filter is $12.00 and the oil is $6.95 per quart (100% synthetic 5w30.) It sounds expensive, but It lasts 5 times as long. Not to mention less engine wear and better fuel mileage. If this is true about the 25,000 mile intervals, it costs about the same as a regular oil change. I am still a little weary about 25,000 miles before changing the oil.
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Member Posts: 215
    I've not done it myself, but I believe a rear stabilizer bar is quite easy to add. I've also read about folks adding limited slip and locking differentials to lots of different trucks.

    I'd probably have to pay someone to do both, since I'm all thumbs, but my guess is that if you're reasonably handy you might be able to add the stabilizer bar yourself. I think you'd need be more than "reasonably handy" to change out the rear diff.

    I've seen stabilizer bars for other trucks (uninstalled) running well under $200. Never checked on prices of LSDs.

    I've not seen a final answer here on the overhead computer, but I could have missed it.

    For what it's worth, I think the bed on the Double Cab will be 61 inches long or just about two inches shy of the QC's bed.
  • newquadownernewquadowner Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2000 quad 4.7 auto 4X4 and have a question for those of you who also own one. When transmission shifts from second to third, I sometimes get a double shift affect. Is this happening to anyone else. If so, have you been able to get it fixed?
  • maybequad2000maybequad2000 Member Posts: 13
    well i guess that if you have to wait for 4 months then it is a good thing that they put on 16" rims and tires. and the way that it sounds, if you have the upgraded mirrors, then you will have the heated mirrors, or is it still only with the non-slider back windows? and by the way bootykitty, i am completely hammered after missing the posts from about the last 4 days, i think that i read yours first and had to agree(nothing like canadian beer), but am happy to hear about some of the upgrades for 2001. i am going to call my dealer tommorrow and get the lowdown on the options/price increase.
    Evan
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Member Posts: 215
    My understanding is that the packages remain the same, so that you can still only get the heated mirrors with the rear defroster (and the non-sliding window).

    Also, the dealers don't have pricing yet.
  • impy2impy2 Member Posts: 50
    I was just reading my owners manual. It says (in the "schedule A") that the spark plugs should be changed at 30,000 miles. Is this correct for the 4.7 liter? Most new cars today have 100,000 mile spark plugs in them. Where are the spark plugs? I was looking under the hood. Are they near the fuel injectors with funny looking plug wires coming off of them, or is that part of the SMPI fuel injection system. I cannot even see how to get those plug wires off, or even how to get a socket in there without taking off a bunch of stuff. Where is the PCV valve. Is there 1 or 2. Most "V" engines have 1 PCV valve per side located on each valve cover. Where is the thermostat. It is usually at the base of the top radiator hose, but that leads to the water pump..........Im think? I used to be able to find everything on vehicles. These new vehicle designs have me baffled. Where is fuel filter. Is it somewhere near the gas tank or is it in the gas tank. Sorry for all of the questions. I just want to be prepared when it comes time to change these things. I am very maticulous about preventive maintenance.
  • raptor01raptor01 Member Posts: 45
    Badassbob/towcrazy2, Thanks for the info on break in before towing and hitches. Was going to tow my waverunners (approx 1400 #) using the bumper but after reading these posts I will install a receiver type hitch (Reese).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (impy2) If you have the "Border states" emissions package then you have THREE catalytic converters on your Dakota. This is part of a VERY sophisticated system that can tell if even one spark plug misfires once. I advise against removing the 3'rd catalyst.

    On to spark plugs...
    The 4.7 L V8 has NO spark-plug wires in the conventional sense. Instead, each plug has its own coil plugged right on top of it held in with a bolt. It is rumored that replacing the sparkplugs requires removing parts of the intake system.

    This engine has several other 'special' features such as the carbon-composite bedplate. This is usually found in engines specifically designed for competition. (Over 20 bolts hold the main bearings in place)

    The oiling system uses some 'neat' features to ensure that everything is well lubed. (hollow OVERHEAD camshafts feed half of the valve-actuators.)

    The cooling system uses what I call a 'bypass system' that regulates the temperature of the coolant ENTERING the engine very precisely with a minimum 50% bypass at all times. (Notice that the thermostat is mounted LOW on the engine)

    Valve covers are MAGNESIUM which is very light. (However DO NOT let any wires/hoses lay against them or risk wearing a hole in the VERY thin material)
    Paraphrased from the DC service manual
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (impy2) The PCV valve is found on the passengers
    side of the oil-fill tube. To remove it, pull the
    rubber hose from the firewall-side of it the valve.
    It then takes a quarter-twist to release the
    'ears' and remove it.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    I found this note in the Orange Bible!

    CAUTION: The 4.7L V-8 engine is equipped with copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, pre-ignition will result.

    So much for platinum plugs. By the way the part number per the book is RC12MCC4 gapped at 1.01mm (.040 in.)

    Although the book makes no reference to it, I have heard problems reported with spark plugs left long term in aluminum heads. It was suggested that you use a copper antiseize compound when changing plugs. Can anyone confirm this?? I would also think due to the odd part number of the spark plug a person might be advised to get/order the plugs ahead of time when planning to change them. Rick
  • snowedinsnowedin Member Posts: 58
    I've been reading these posts since Jan. and somewhere along the way there was a post from someone who stated that he "acquired" an overhead computer unit from a friend at a Dodge dealership but when he went to install it he found that the needed wiring harness was not there. I believe he gave up trying to install it and I don't recall anyone posting any success in their attempts. But I drink alot and could be mistaken. Have you asked your dealer for a quote for adding it? This might be one way to find out how difficult the addition may be.
  • jcody1jcody1 Member Posts: 58
    Yes I have also experienced slipping and "double shifting" with my 4.7/auto QC. This is my only complaint with this truck. If this thing actually goes 75K miles without the tranny failing I will be amazed. It seems to be the real weak link of this great truck. But that is no surprise- I think all American made automatics are junk. At least the new ones. What happened to the old GM turbo 350's?? Those things were bullet proff and never did any crazy shifts/hunting for gears! I am the first one that argues that new cars are better than the "old" ones, but this is one area that it is just not true. (my opinion anyway..please argue your point if you disagree!)
  • jcody1jcody1 Member Posts: 58
    I am not done....
    What happened to good quick clean neck snapping shifts? Tire chearping shifts? These new autos should be called slideamatics since they sllliiiddddeee into gear.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Missed a few things, so:

    Anti sway bar - fairly easy, low(ish)cost after market add.

    LSD - less straightforward add, but can be done - themacguy did a rear end swap - ratio change, not lsd, but he should be able to add something.

    Spark plugs / anti-seize - definitely need to use some kind of anti seize when changing, I can't think of any problems with copper.
  • ozarkozark Member Posts: 124
    I remember awhile back on one of these strands that someone had installed bed rail protectors. Any information about vendor, install, etc would be appreciated. I installed an under-rail liner and I am finding that since I haul a lot of junk (that turn into antiques after purchase) I am constantly scratching the top rail with cardboard boxes, etc. The rail protectors seem to be a solution but I am open to suggestions.

    After 9,000 miles the love affair with this truck is still going strong and I would buy another one tomorrow. My wife loves the truck as well and we are seriously considering a second one (2wd version) as a second family vehicle. Depends on the end of year deal we might find.

    themacguy and sir a_j- how's the owners group going? I know you all have been working on it and I would like to add my thanks to that of others who appreciate your efforts.

    Anybody had any experience with or heard any reports on the geautowarranty product. As 12,000 miles approaches I am about to make a decision on the extended warranty. Again, any help or comments would be appreciated.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Well nothing more since I posted the updated info last week. At that point Bonnie said maybe end of the week (last week), we obviously didn't make that, but I believe that we are getting close.

    Bonnie suggested one topic last week that kinda passed me by - that of a meet the members topic. At first I thought, cool, it would be good to know motre about the people here, but the more I think about it the more useful it sounds.

    We can provide details of our knowledge / experience / skills etc and then be available either here or via e-mail to address specific issues. Just think about some of the topics that we cover here - dogs, cats and Hillman Imps just for starters - oh yeah and some truck stuff occasionally ;-)
  • towcrazy2towcrazy2 Member Posts: 337
    lmeyer: If you get serious about the Roll-a-Cover, be CERTAIN that your authorized dealer orders the correct part number. If you visited the Roll-a-Cover website, you'll note that they don't list anything for the QC. For the record, the correct part number for the TA (total access) cover for the QC is: 0225-B/TA. It comes in at about $550 + tax.

    impy2: I'll confess that I don't know a thing about AMSOIL (though I've had some experience with Mobil 1).

    I do, however, have 2 cents to add regarding WHY I went back to using conventional oil and changing every 3,000 with a fresh filter.

    My understanding from those who know better is that particulates aren't the only problem... That over time (particularly if the truck sits for periods of time), acids will accumulate in the crankcase... Acids that cannot be removed by a filter.

    Maybe I'm old-fasioned, but I switched back to conventional oil and filter change every 3,000 miles (2,000 when towing). I found a GOOD quick-oil-change outfit nearby (no small task)... Drive in, sit with a coffee for 10 minutes, lay out my 20 bucks, and I'm off!
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    We use Amsoil in our fleet vehicles, but that is not of my doing. You have to trust the motor pool to make good decisions. My personal experience is that I would buy anything but Amsoil because of the snake-oil, arrogant salesmen that I have encountered. I do intend to switch to a synthetic or synthetic blend when my new Q comes in and is broke in. The engine and rearend are where I am going to use them. The transmission is a different story. Unless the oil is specifically the same as the oil used by D/C for that transmission, it could cause problems. You have to remember that in an automatic transmission, the oil is more of a hydraulic fluid than a lubricant. The other applications are primarily lubrication operations and slippery is an asset. Another factor is that I would never go 25,000 miles between oil changes. It may be the future of vehicles, but if I have an engine problem and went over 10,000 miles without an oil change, D/C would show me the door. The synthetic oils are a conundrum that I am still working on. They are great and require less oil changes, but if you have your oil changed for you, they cost twice as much. I do eight-ten oil changes per year on my truck and the thought of going back to hot oil on my face while lying on a frozen concrete slab in 10 degree weather is not enticing, even if I did have the time.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    "What happened to good quick clean neck snapping
    shifts? Tire chearping shifts?"


    Why they are still there, It's called a 5 Speed Manual Transmission
  • lmeyer1lmeyer1 Member Posts: 215
    Thanks for the part number.
  • jcody1jcody1 Member Posts: 58
    your right, but I have to "sit" in bumper to bumper, stop and go traffic about 3-4 times a week and that clutch just ain't happenin!
  • bja4bja4 Member Posts: 67
    I did not order the tow package(saving money). Instead I got a 7500 pound rated drop-down hitch from Reese. The only you see from the back is the square receiver tube. I paid $125.00 for the hitch (hitch and pin included), and another $15 for a wire kit. I spent less than 15 minutes of physically work installing the hitch. Every hole matched perfectly. Five of those minutes were spent moving the spare tire forward about an inch. I spend another 5 minutes installing the wire kit. A total of 30 minutes spent.
  • maybequad2000maybequad2000 Member Posts: 13
    to all of you with a 2000 on order, i ordered my SLT, auto, 4.7L, etc. on may 15. called the dealer today, and he said that DC had cancelled my order, and he is sending me the package information on a 2001. i hope to order the very first day that they are allowed. don't have time to chat, have to go get drunk now.:-)
    Evan
  • bsparxbsparx Member Posts: 84
    4.7 4x4 auto. Just changed oil for first time today (Actually, I'm another to also sit there and have a cup of coffee while someone else is in the pit-especially with this skid plate in the way!) . 4200 miles, but lots of highway and varied speeds, not too many starts. I know some of you will be thinking of criticizing this 'long' break in period, but I'm another who adds Marvel Mystery when I leave the lot and I give it a little time to work into seals, etc. Went with Quaker State 100% synthetic 5-30, at about $6/q, and QS filter as well. Both should go 6K between changes easily. Also went with Red Line rear diff oil, so those first few miles in the morning come a little easier...Will probably go with Red Line for the trans as well when its time (around 30K I'd guess), have had lots of luck with it in the past. I drive about 25K per year from one job site to another, and live in the SF Bay Area, so with all this traffic and driving my knee talked me out of a clutch 10 years ago. My auto used to 'double upshift' from 2nd to 3rd, but I think it wasn't so much the trans as the torque converter changing within the gear. I'm not terribly technical, but its been explained to me thats what makes my one-speed forklifts feel like they shift up sometimes. However, that sensation pretty much went away as the truck 'learned' my heavy-footed habits. I know some of you will be skeptical about the truck learning (I sure was when I first read about it here a few weeks ago) but holy s***, it did. Love the truck and this forum is now a part of my maintenance plan. I learn something every time I check in. Thanks all,

    Ben
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    bja4 - all - Where did you get the Reese hitch? Local Distributer, Local Hitch Installer? And I see you installed it yourself.. so no problems with bolts like neding special wrenches etc... (Santa wil bring me an air compressor and tools this year I am told :-) ) I have a pretty much all of the standard/power tools (except those air). Also did you find something to cover the bumper hole, which would look redundant then... thanks
  • 96g1196g11 Member Posts: 88
    try www.bushwacker.com They sent me an e-mail some time back which stated that the bedrail protectors, black plastic in diamond plate design would be available by May. I haven't checked back whith them but if enough of us "squeak" maybee they will move up production to "grease" us.
  • colbatescolbates Member Posts: 37
    Last weekend I took a little vacation out to Rosco, NY to fish the Catskills with some internet buddies. Of course I took my new truck. MPG before my trip:

    1st fill-up: 15.47mpg (break-in miles and a couple trips to work. Work is 70 miles round trip almost all hwy at 60+ mph

    2nd fill-up: 15.65mpg (more break-in miles driving around town and back and forth to work and topping off tank before heading to NY)

    3rd fill-up: 17.48mpg (After I arrived in Rosco, NY. Traveling mostly Hwy from North of Boston through Conn. to Rosco, NY)

    4th fill-up: 17.52mpg (Driving around Rosco to various fishing locations and getting lost in NY on my way home, this time heading North to Vt.)

    5th fill-up: 21.5mpg (Miles from Bennington, VT through the moutains to South Eastern New Hampshire. Steep moutain driving conditions and secondary hwy driving)

    I still love my truck. Although I've noticed that sometimes when I first start out, I really need to give it some gas before it starts to accelerate. Once this is done, it feels as though I've got the "cobwebs" cleaned out of it and a little change on the gass peddle brings on some nice acceleration.

    I've got a little over 1,200 miles on it and so far it's only stalled once. I had taken a wrong turn on a dirt road in NY and had to back up to turn the truck around before driving out of a wash-out in the road. I was pleasantly surprised I didn't need 4wd for that.

    Onto other things... The Rhino Liner will be sprayed in tomorrow morning. The CD player from my old truck will be installed on Fri. My step rails have been ordered (Smittybuilt Sure-steps) and should be arriving any day.

    I'm a happy owner. :-)
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