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Comments
Has anyone noticed abnormal tire wear in their QC? I saw a used '00 on the dealer lot. Looked nice, but tire wear was horrible.
The '01 info is great to look at and dream about for those of us still to make their purchase. Note the bedliner promotion is still going on here in my region, Alabama. Saw ads in Colorado and California in the last two weeks.
I've had my SLT, (2wd, 4.7, auto), for 1000 pleasureable miles now.
I was able to order it at invoice, although the AD fees here in the Chicago area are $500. The only defect at delivery, is a misaligned front bumper.
MPG is up to 16.5 for a mix of driving.
I've noticed a vibration at around 50mph+. It seems that with the rear windows down, the airflow is causing something to vibrate. I can feel it through the bench seat "leaner". Anyone else notice this.
Bookitty: I too have the incredible Amber Fire Pearl. Although the lady at my A.R.E dealer took one look and mentioned "It's a pumpkin!".
texaszach: my thoughts exactly about the new stuff.
Could be that's all this is. (Don't have my QC yet so I can't be of much more help.)
Thanks for any info.
I've also discovered the clunkly downshift at about 20 mph, but on mine it's still much smoother than what I got on the Ford F250 auto.
bookitty, Thanks for the info about the heated mirrors. I was going just by the brochure which says heated mirrors without any exceptions.
iwantmyquad, This has been covered, but I too was rather disappointed to discover a sticker under a sticker (so now I have one club cab statement).
jones27, I measured from frame to tire tread (at top of tire near a tab symmetric on the frame) and found no significant (<1/8 inch) difference between sides.
My first tank gas mileage isn't near as good as other 4.7L - 13.7 mpg. But this is nearly all lower speed with a very heavy foot.
Allen-
I think my only dilemma now is how I will buy the truck. Due to some past experiences, I really want to try to avoid dealing with salesmen. I think this may be unavoidable, because I am pretty set on the options I want and most likely will need to have the dealer factory order my truck. I just got an email from an autobytel dealer in Kerrville, TX (I'm in San Antonio). They said they could get the quads @500 over invoice. I'll keep you guys updated.
Steve, on the '01 update: is the bright metallic silver a color available in the sport package. Also, is this info available somewhere to the public with more details.
Thanks for all the great info guys.
Brookzie
Also, it appears that Taupe and Dark Slate are replacing Agate and Mist Grey for interior colors. They're not going to be available in addition to those colors.
My dealer made copies of the new information for me. Just stop in at a local dealer and ask if they'll do the same, although I imagine it'll be available on-line somewhere pretty soon.
ricpr, victx- I got mine from [www.bennyboyd.com] last year - great place, couldn't have been a better experience. Anyone buying there, please tell Pam & Brigitte "Hi from Jack!" These two (babes) really work hard for their measly pittance. If we ever do a swimsuit thingy on Edmunds - trust me, they're most definitely IN! ;-)=
All - check out bpeebles latest post over in 1848 about the oil filler tube cap's O-ring. It's right on the money - as per usual.
Brought the top back home to remove it for the bedliner installation. Two grown men had little trouble removing it. Just loosened the four J clamps and lifted it off. The over-the-rail Line-X bedliner sprayed on well. Those guys there are well versed in the process. Let it cure overnight, and the top is back on.
The Leer tonneau also had another feature I hadn't expected. You can remove the fiberglass and leave the frame rails in the bed if you need to carry oversized items. You just need to lift the tail end. Remove the struts (quick release) and tilt up to about a 45 degree angle. The front hinge bar releases, and the top can be lifted off. Again, a two-man job.
Both done for a little over $1000. Tonneau was $650 and liner was $375. Awesome addition to the truck for looks and dry storage.
With the VIN (or VON), call DC customer service line and ask them what railline the truck shipped on and the railcar number.
Use the raillines web site to trace the railcar.
The railline may have already dropped it at a "distribution hub" to be trucked to the dealer. If these "carriers" are on strike, I'm not sure what you can do.
The Dakota Mailing List home page( not sure of URL) and www.dodgeram.com have information on accessing the DC service line and rail tracing. They're also folks in this forum that can help w/ the rail trace if neccessary. (Email me at teckno@jps.net if you would like.)
Thanx,
Scott
3000 miles or should it be done sooner, considering the break in of the engine. (2000 Dakota club sport 4x4, 4.7L V8, 5 speed, with tow package and all the other good stuff). My owners manual says 6 quarts of oil. WOW!!!! The 5.9L only takes 5. Why would the 4.7 need more oil. Should I use a Mopar filter. What is a good oil to run in it. (I know everyone will have a different opinion). I have always used Castrol 5W-30 in all of my vehicles. Should I just stick to Castrol or does Dodge recommend something else.
I have skid plates. Will I need to remove one of them in order to get to the drain plug, or is there a cutout to get to it. I did find the oil filter. Any ideas what size the drain plug is. Is it standard or metric? Thanks
(1) Run a Constant 12V lead directly from the battery to the relay
(2) for the switched 12V lead i will use both the reverse lights AND the cargo light for this purpose...IE: I will be able to activate the lights with the cargo lamp and they will also light up whenever i put it in reverse..
***Havent decided if i will isolate the switched 12V's from each other(IE..(2) separate SPDT relays ) or not
Any suggestions???
Chad
As far a measuring from the frame. I go the rear of the back tires and measure from the frame to the outer edge of lowest point on the wheel well. Same distance on both sides. This indicates to me that the bed is aligned with the frame. But, if I measure from the same point to the outer edge of the tire, I get two different measurements. This indicates to me that the axle is actually longer on the right side than on the left side. Please.......I've been wrong before, so correct me if this isn't possible. If indeed the axle is longer on that side, what possible problems can I have if it isn't fixed? Or is it any real problem at all?
What's confusing is the sheets the dealer copied for me show the tires in two places. In one they show the 4X2 T&H package getting 255/60/R16s but in another it's 255/65/R16. No biggie, but I like to get all this stuff nailed.
Thanks for the help
Since so many people responded, I thought I'd update y'all.
First, to clarify some points. Yes I did notify the original dealership, contact Dodge, and have the work done at a Dodge service center. Just in case someone else has been through this, let me clarify the specific problem. I live on a hill. I park the truck in front of my house, facing up the hill. I start the truck, place the transmission in 'drive' and... the truck rolls backward. I use first gear to get off the hill, then the 'check engine' light comes on. At the Dodge service bay, the code indicates a "Transmission malfunction".
Anyway, got the truck back two weeks ago. They had replaced the solenoid that handles the electronic shifting of the tranny, and reset the thing back to factory specs. I drove it the whole time without incident, then yesterday the whole thing happens again exactly as above and it's back in the shop again. This thing has spent more weekends at the Dodge dealer than in my garage.
On a final note, as a last word to those who latched onto my apparent enthusiasm for the quality of Toyotas and Hondas - I clarify: I've owned two Toyota 4x4 trucks and two Honda passenger cars and had zero problems with the lot of 'em. But you're right - I chose the Dodge Quad because it is damn near the perfect truck for a family man who needs to haul stuff. The Toyota didn't even come close.
So, please God, let them fix my truck this time!!!
As far as not dealing with salesmen, someone long ago posted a good idea of dealing only with the sales manager since he is not concerned with a personal commission but is interested only in moving units.
The drain plug on the oil pan of the 4.7 is 13mm. Rick
PS I usually pour oil into the filter so there is a shorter interval before the oil gets up to pressure. I figure every little bit helps in the long run.
I believe I'm getting a new power bench seat...unless the dealer ordered just the rails...
Does anybody have experience mounting the foglight kit (Mopar)??? Ordered it yesterday, only real apprehension is how to get the dash apart to replace the headlight switch with the supplied headlight/foglight switch. Oh, and I haven't decided how I'm going to cut the circular holes into the front bumper fascia, without making a mess (butchering it)...any ideas or help is appreciated.
-quark
Quark99 - you will need a 4" hole saw to do the hole cutting for the fog lights. No matter how hard you try, you will mar the plastic just a tad bit, but unless you get down on your knees to look, you'll never see it. I guess you could try to cut the hole from the inside by center drilling first on the outside. The dash pops off very easily, but be patient. Start prying with a small flat screwdriver around the headlight switch and gently work you way around the whole assembly with your fingers once you get it started. You will need to put the tranny in drive to remove it completely(the gear shift gets in the way if you have an auto). Don't forget to put the tranny back in park to do your work.
Bigal31 - I hope the molding fix I used helps.. Once I applied new 3M tape (the padded type used for molding)and made sure it was firmly stuck to the molding, and the door was well cleaned for a good stick (some old gummy residue), it worked great. Washed truck this weekend and checked the molding.. Still nice and tight on the frame.
My next project is to see about step bars.. alot of good input here to help me choose a good quality set...
been noticing my temperature on the overhead
console was nowhere close to the outside temp. Got
worse as the motor warmed up. I checked the orange
Bible for it's location and went to check it. Lo
and behold, no sensor at the described
location????? Back to book, yep, supposed to be
there. I found the wiring harness and checked all
the wires coming out. Found one going down instead
of UP. Turns out sensor is hanging from wire,
swinging in the breeze. Screw was never installed
at factory. I found a screw and mounted it where it
was supposed to mount. For those without a book
the sensor mounts on the radiator brace on the
right side (passenger side) just behind the grill
and along side the air dam that was installed to
keep the cold air from causing the yellow goop to
form in the oil filler neck. So if your temp is
erratic check to see your sensor is where it is
supposed to be. Maybe the Turkey who was supposed to put the screw in screwed up on more than one Quad. Rick
PS This is a repost, I scribbled the first as th description of the Turkey was too strong for family group.
bpeebles: My impression is that the transfer switch is going to be a dial like they use on the A/C controls. My guess, it may be located by the power takeoff and airbag shutoff switch (2dr models).
victx: The only colors not offered in the sport are the Forest Green, Patriot Blue, Bronze Pearlcoat and Dk Garnet. The only restriction on interion color is that the Dark Slate is not available with the Bronze.
Quark99: Supposedly, you are to take a knife to cut the openings out. There is a groove on the openings behind the air dam for that purpose. It may take a little patience, but it should be a lot neater. I would definitely not use power tools here.
All.....The truck I bought off the lot was pretty much loaded, but one option I hoped for was not on it, factory trailer hitch. No problem I thought, over the years I have installed bumpers, trailer hitches and suspension lift kits on 4x4's in my well equipped home garage. Last week I purchased a receiver hitch by Draw Tite. Yesterday I spent several hours attempting to bolt this beast on. This hitch will not work on my truck. The day I bought it, the dealer I purchased it from phoned the warehouse to make sure it was the correct part number. In all fairness to Draw Tite, I may have gotten the one exception to the rule but as of this morning that hitch is out of here. Now, someone mentioned having purchased a Reese hitch, was mounting a problem with it? I'm so disgusted at this point I may phone my salesman back to inquire as to the over the counter price at Dodge Parts Dept. What if Draw Tite makes the factory hitch? HORROR OF HORRORS!
I haven't, however, heard great things about the Tacoma's ride and handling (other than off road, where it apparently excels). I'm wondering if the Double Cab will change this.
Anyway I think Chad-"badassbob" went with the reese hitch.You might want to check with him on this one.Hope it all works out.
Allen-
There is a popular misconception that knock / pinging / whatever is a problem - it isn't. It is perfectly normal to hear some knocking when the engine is under strain - such as going uphill.
Your 4.7 was specifically designed to run 87 octane, and I guarantee that it isn't old enough to make it worthwhile stepping up to 89. If the knocking is really pronounced take it back to the dealer for a different potential problem, but if it is only mild knocking under load conditions then don't worry.
Please keep us informed as to what the fix is for this small irritating noise.
Keith