If you still have the stock exhaust then we're both experiencing the same problem (cab resonance from 1500 - 1800 RPMs). Has your dealer given you any options to resolve this problem. Obyone suggested a resonator after the rear axle but before the 90 degree bend. He also explained the quietest Gibson system was much too loud so that shot the hell out of that idea.
My truck is in the shop as we speak although the service writer didn't appear to comprehend my problems as I was describing the noise. He did say they had resolved a different noise in the past with weights added to the exhaust system. Anyone ever heard of such a thing?
Hello all, bear with me here as I am new. Just purchased a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4 Z71 Xcab. Love the truck. My only real complaint is I have washed the vehicle three times now, and still it appears there is an oily film or residue on the paint. The soap suds won't cut it. It always dries with water drop marks all over it. Worse, dust jumps on the paint like its a magnet. Any ideas what I can washer 'er down with to get rid of whatever the factory shipped it out with and the dealer did not get off? Can't take it to the dealer: He's 500 miles away...by airplane. I am in Nome, Alaska. Thanks BTW, the color is Carmine Red
I'm sure one or our resident wax/polish experts can help you out.
But first things first...Ryan and Tim want to know if you are an old person? Only old people drive the dark carmine red, so says Ryan. Tim and I love the color, but neither of us have it.
tires, question originally was "what is the widest tire that I can put on my stock rims", answer=10.5 inches. I never said to put on 15 inch tires! Most factory rims are 7" wide and will tolerate 1.5"-2" of overhang (bulge) on each side. Any wider than that will cause the bulge to be in the middle of the tire instead of the sides, causing you to wear out the tire extremely fast.
oil change, best time to change oil is after it sat overnight, almost all of the oil is either in the pan or the filter. Change it when it's cold and sat for 7 hrs or more.
residue on paint, use any one of the manufacturers of a clay bar (clay magic, Mothers, etc), it will remove all that residue. I have used it on a yellow 95 Mustang GT, black 90 Lexus LS400 and a jewel green 96 Lexus LS400 all with great results!! Makes the follow up wax job look great!!
sally, realistically if you don't live on some county road or never intend on going off road a 2WD with a locking differential will do you just fine. I had a 72 Chevy Cheyenne Super short box 2WD for 8 years living in Boulder, Co and only got stuck once (thanksgiving blizzard of 1981 I believe). And that truck DID NOT have a locking rear end!
I have noticed this problem in every 1500 I have driven. It is normal, the dealer isn't yanking your chain. I believe it has to do with the torque curve of the engine, and the programming of the automatic. Test drive a 2500, it doesn't have this problem. The 6.0L torque curve is tabletop flat, the 5.3 is pretty steep. This is the single biggest reason I am going for a 2500. I hate that feeling. My Dad used to have a 91 S10 Blazer. It did the same thing. It shifted into OD about 45-50, which is prime speed around town as the speed limits are 40 in the city here. It was the worst when you were approaching a light that just went yellow. You couldn't get it to just shift to 3rd gradually, because part throttle would do very little besides lug the engine. You had to mash the gas, and then wait, and then it would go straight to 2nd. GM finally put out a TSB to reprogram the tranny, but I am sorry to say it didn't do much to help the problem. Perhaps it made the shift quicker, but it still felt the same. The quick fix, drive with the shifter in 3 in the city. Your mileage will only suffer a little, maybe 1-2 mpg. I do this in all my automatic cars, partly because of the past bad experience with that blazer, and partly because I figure it is saving a large number of shifts over the life of the vehicle, thus making the tranny last longer. Try the hypertech also. Raising the shift points might keep you out of OD in these situations.
As for extended warranties, if you are going to get one, get the GM one. Negotiate the price, their is tons of dealer mark up. I got one for my wife's car that is 6yr/70K mile with no deductible, for $1000. Retail was $1500. You could do better, but I was beat down by the whole process by that point and was happy to get it for $1000 My parents had a non-GM one before, and it wasn't worth the hassle. Every service required serious crap. Calling back and forth to the warranty people about what the service people said, was it covered, etc. Then they started screwing around saying they would only pay X amount for an alternator, so it would have to be a rebuilt unit, that they would have to ship to the dealer, etc. Blah, blah, blah...It is an endless debate as to whether these warranties are worth it. You would be better off taking the $1000, investing in mutual funds, and call it your repair account, but I know it just doesn't work that way for some of us, so if you are going to get one, get the GM one, and save yourself the grief. Be sure you see GM on what you sign, my parent's non-GM warranty was sold through the dealer, and they had no idea it wasn't a GM plan until after the trouble started.
Bob, My grey liner is close to the Pewter color and the test sample didn't really fade, but instead developed a very slight yellow tint to it. This is very apparent with a side-by-side comparison, but if the entire bed changed color slightly you probably wouldn't notice it. The test sample actually matches the Pewter better than the original color, but again just slightly.
If you want my $.02, there are too many black liners, go with the grey if it fits your truck color.
I agree with you - the chrome mirrors detract from the truck.
So I ordered my truck with the camper/trailer mirrors. They are black, unfortunately not power adjustable and extendable if you ever carry a big load or a trailer. I really like these mirrors, they have a larger field of view and the can see around my camper. Another plus is they are a credit over the standard power chrome mirrors.
The best time to change the oil is when it is hot and just shut down. If you wait until it cools (or overnight as you suggest) some contaminants in the oil will settle down to the bottom of the pan and not come out with the oil. Then when you fire up the engine with fresh oil, it may stir up the deposits and recirculate the same harmful stuff. If you change the oil while that stuff is still in suspension, it will come out with the oil.
It may be less painfull to change the oil when it is cold (hot oil burns when it splashes on me), but it is a better practice for the engine.
That is why the drain plug is at the lowest point of the oil pan. Most contaminants are going to drain out as the oil is flowing to the drain hole. I doubt that all the contaminants are "suspended" in hot/warm oil waiting for you to change the oil, their is ALWAYS some left behind regardless of what temerature the oil is.
Dropped the '99 (24 kmiles) by for a parking brake check yesterday. Not working very well. $145 later with the statement "you musta be running around with the parking brake on" I picked it up. Disappointed that was not covered under warranty. Only thing I can think is that the parking brakes froze on last winter, and I burned 'em up. Didn't replace any parts, all labor. Parking brakes now work great, foot pedal stops before it hits the floor. Still rolls around on very gentle grades when parking brake released so the parking brake is not dragging.
Says this is the first one they've seen with the self adjusters stuck, probably because "the owner never uses the parking brake".
Got plenty of stress in my life, only fought a little, talked with the mechanic......
Short story is next time you have the rear tires off, pull the rotor and check to see if your parking brakes are working right.
BTW, use the parking brake 6 times a day or more (man tranny), and don't drive around with it on. Wonder if there is a design defect in the new "top-hat" parking brake system.
on June 26, UPS tracking says they will be delivered Friday, June 30. Ordered on May 5. Gee, that was quick. (NOT!) Ordered VelvetRide shackles this morning, 2 day FedEx, should also get them on Friday. Looks like an installation weekend coming up. About time! I'm going to install the shocks first so I can check them out without the shackles to see how they work (before the 30-day money-back guarantee runs out). Then install the shackles. I'll let everyone know how all this stuff works.
2WD or 4WD. I changed my mind after every post, about 3 times. I don't know now. It is about evenly divided with everyone I talk to. I think I'll go with 4WD, b/c I plan on keeping it a long time and I'm sure there will be several days when I'm glad I have it. Thanks for all the advice. Also in this area they are giving $500 rebates only on 4WD.
No real debate here, we are just voicing our opinions. I don't think any of us will change what we have been doing, nor do I expect to cause anyone to change. But I had let bluebeast know why I did not agree with him.
Don't forget to pick up some Dawn dishwashing liquid on the way home from Menards. You will need it to start your Zaino experience. That is if your Mom doesn't use Dawn.
If the person from Alaska is still around, claying will remove most impurities. If its an oily finish on the truck...nothing beats Dawn. But you're going to have to apply some wax after the Dawn as it will strip the wax completely off your truck.
The people hoping to adjust shift points with the HPPIII should know that the only time the HPIII will work on adjusting the shift points is at WOT. Be sure to adjust your rpm rev limiter or you will experience the shift point/rpm limiter experience where your truck will still be holding the gear and you will be exceeding the rev limiter, oh what a bad feeling.
drain when cold after sitting overnight. Agree about oil also. I think to many people are paranoid over changing there oil. It just seems like a waste to change every 3K with synthetic. Oil of today is much higher quality than 10-20 years ago and can take more abuse. I use the oil life thing on the Silverado to change my oil (mineral oil) and would wait 10K miles if using synthetic, but I'm sure this will start the debate again...
Took my Z71 out for the first time off road. Got a flat about 7 miles out in the middle of the desert. Took it to tire store and was not fixable, had to get a new tire. Would have been much cheaper to purchase road hazards on the tires when I first got it. (For those less experienced) tires that come with the truck do not have road hazard warranties on them. I learned the expensive way $110.68 for a new one. Thought I'd pass this on.
for that matter. If you don't like em, just take em to a good autobody shop, They will sandblast the chrome off, paint with primer, then finish with matching paint and clear.
so...if you use a synthetic, and choose to wait 10,000 miles between changes...will the filter last or not? if not, how do you change the filter without dumping half your oil anyways?
Run LT tires, much less chance of sidewall damage..... Assume you have those P (passenger car tires) series baloon tires.
Oil changes - don't you thing GM knows that the oil is better. My oil is dark and dirty by the time the oil change light comes on. On the new truck, will run M1 after breakin and still change at the oil light period (typically 3 to 4k miles for my use)
Heck, I change my 4-stroke dirtbike's oil at 150 to 200 miles.... wet clutch, and runs dang hot.... ~55hp out of 40cubic inches displacment. Frequent oil changes insure a long life.
but now have the LT285's and I notice a lot more tire roll than before. Probably because there larger tires, but I'm kinda curious about this cause the guy I bought them from said they had the same load range as the ones I took off. So, what's the difference in them? I also have to run about 35-40 lbs. of pressure in the rear to get them to sit all the way on the ground. Sidewall says max is 65 and I feel a little quezzy running them that low...
I did just the opposite. I had the velvets installed first to see if there was any reduction in vibration and bouncing on rough roads. Once you have the Edelbrocks on, the ride characteristics change so much it is hard to evaluate the improvement from the velvets. Also, let us know if you had to shave the center bolt head on the velvets to fit the shackle bracket. For me, this setup virtually eliminated any body lean on turns and made the truck handle more like a car. The ride was improved, but it is still not as solid or comfortable as my old 1970s era 3/4 ton pickups (IMHO)- things change - trucks are much improved in other ways. I think your money is well spent on these functional improvements. Good Luck.
Talked to my dealer today, he confirmed the 6.0L will have 325hp and 370lb torque. He also said GMC will not offer the Pewter interior anymore, only Graphite or Neutral. Has anyone seen the Neutral? How does it compare to the previous Oak color? Maybe this is same color they have in a van or other car? I sure would like to know what it looks like before I order it!!! Thanks.
I got a price from a dealer in St. Louis today for a 2001 LT. Only options are Z71 and locker. He included P265-75R 16 BSW. Price less Tax/Title/License = $29,780. What do you think?
Also, test drove a 2000 LT, Z71, Locker this evening. My main interest was the leather bucket seats. I'm 6'2, 300 lbs. Test drive was about 30 miles and for half of it, I kept sliding forward. Adjusted the seat up so that my butt was lower than the back of my knees and I stayed put. The suspension seemed very rough for the majority of my driving (city/highway) vs: the little bit of mudding I will do during duck season. The truck had 2 miles on it and I experienced no front end vibrations upto 80 MPH. But, the noise coming from the rear quarter windows was insulting. Salesman acted freaked out when I showed him I could see daylight just by pushing out with a little pressure.
I know package for the dollars that the LT makes sense, but what about the Z71? If I skip getting the Z71 package, am I going wrong?
I've been following the Silverado posts on Edmunds since August 99 and feel very informed.
You should do okay with the standard 4x4 package in LT trim, the Z71 gets you the stiffer shocks, decal, poly bump stops and I belive, skid plates. Some folks have replaced the Z71 shocks with aftermarket shocks, Edlebrock IAS or Rancho 9000's.
Dean, you are in St. Louis? I live just across the river in Illinois. If you are serious about a new Silverado I feel certain that I can refer you to a dealer that will give you the best price. This dealer is a major area truck dealer and sells a LOT of trucks. I bought mine in April and he was the lowest of about 10 Chevy and GMC dealers that I priced--and the follow-up service has been GREAT. Has gone beyond expectations and has not charged me a dime. Let me know if you are interested. Bob
Yes, I'm in the STL area and would appreciate your input. Please contact me at dinotwo @excite.com with your recommendations. Z71 has not impressed me for the conditions I will be operating in for the next three years. Please pass along the dealer info.
POST 454 Sat. June 24th Hope your still around to give some specific details on your Auxiliary gas tank -
This little tank on the '00 6.0 2500 LT SB 4x4 ext. cab is pretty STUPID!! Waiting to see if the '01's increase size like Dodge!! But still probably need Aux. installation.
I see your pictures and looks like what I need when pulling 5th wh. also -
Could you give specific details on following? Tank Brand? Gal. size? Mounted exactly? Fuel switching-electric solenoid? fuel from aux. to main tank? Anything you'd do diff.? Cost? Where to buy the "stuff"? Any part no's?
Also on your folding cover? Brand? Rain tight? Mounts how? Etc.
Mark: Weights on the muffler? I don't get it. Did he say what the purpose was, exactly, for them?
As far as that post with the protective film on the paint, that is a new one. Maybe the factory put it on due to the delivery location. Have you called your dealer and asked him about it? You might try Meguiars cleaner and wax if the dealer can't help you. As for the water spots, that is pretty typical of the base-coat, clear-coat applications...just towel it down good (clean white towel) after you wash it and it shouldn't be a problem. Lot of detailers will use a chamois cloth but personally I don't like them as they are hard to keep clean. That material really seems to attract dirt.
Sally: Get the 4WD, you won't regret it. Besides, it'll give you more buttons to play with!
Bluebeast, I think you have a lot of knowledge on trucks, but we really different on changing hot or cold engine oil. I am shocked to find out that there are people who actually try to drain cold oil from a cold oil pan. What can we compare this with? I guess I just have always thought everyone did it while the engine was hot or at least warm. Even if I lived in a warm or hot climate for most or all of the year I would still drain the oil while the engine is hot. The oil pan will contain fewer contaminates and a smaller amount of left over used oil to mix with the new oil if the old oil is drained while hot. Getting rid of as many of the contaminates and as much as possible of the old oil is the main reason to get rid of the old oil and filter. Bad idea to leave the drain plug out all night and finish the job the next day. Complete the job immediately once begun. To each his/her own, but I know hot is better for me. Some may even purchase a Tundra instead of a Silverado. We pay and/or reap benefits from our decisions. Good Luck. Bob
Am I old? Isn't that a relative question! Well, if only "old" people have Silverado's in Carmine Red, I guess 42 is old. Its actually the wifes truck, and she is an "old" 36...
As far as the Z71 off road package, you need to decide if you want to spend the $$$ & if you will use your truck off road enough to buy it. I think a lot of people buy the Z71 to just have it!
If you opt of the package you get 46mm Tenneco shocks, jounce bumper guards, front & rear stab. bars, engine, transmission, transfer case & front diff. skid plates (I don't know why GM doesn't include a fuel tank plate?) & the Z71 decal.
I bought the Z71 pkg. but opted to replace the Tenneco shocks with Edelbrock IAS shocks (I'm very glad I did) the ride is much improved & the handling is even better.
I dont have a problem with old people trust me. I just had a theory that the majority of older people 40+ have carmine trucks. I didnt say older folks only drive silverados. I guess im in the minority if thats true.
Is still going. Since i have had my truck exactly 2 months today it has rained the day or the next day after i washed it. Yesterday i washed it. 3 hrs later it started raining. If anyone knows of any area in the US that is experiencing a drought i would like to offer my services for a very small fee.
2925 mls average gas milage is between 13 and 15 (havent got higher than 17mpg must be the way i drive but 85% is city right now). No major mechanical problems (knock on wood) only been in the shop for body work. Only have a nagging rattle. Almost ripped the trim on the dash out this morning ill probably take it in soon and have them fix it.
I cant beleive i have had it for 2 months already. This thing is great.
This interesting discussion about whether to change oil when it is hot or cold has my little pea brain wondering..The position of the oil drain plug looks like it would be possible to perhaps spray some kerosene or other solvents to get rid of whatever might be left in the oil pan when you change oil. I have heard of flushing the engine, but have always been concerned about where the crud would wind up internally(bearings,etc). This way you could spray a solvent in the oil pan, let it drain out then follow with spraying some oil in there a couple of times to flush.
I like it. It seems very smooth and not stiff at all. I think its alot smoother than my old S-10 and my dads 2000 blazer with the premium ride suspension. It seems in the blazer going over RR tracks or bumps you get thrown around more and in the silverado it just floats (not literally) over them.
For the past few times i have washed my truck i have used the new turtle wax tire wax. It comes in a box and its a green bottle. This stuff is great. Stays on for awhile (unless you drive through alot of rain and water like i have been). All you do is put some on the sponge and wipe over the tire. Really leaves them looking nice.
Comments
Ryan
My truck is in the shop as we speak although the service writer didn't appear to comprehend my problems as I was describing the noise. He did say they had resolved a different noise in the past with weights added to the exhaust system. Anyone ever heard of such a thing?
Mark
But first things first...Ryan and Tim want to know if you are an old person? Only old people drive the dark carmine red, so says Ryan. Tim and I love the color, but neither of us have it.
oil change, best time to change oil is after it sat overnight, almost all of the oil is either in the pan or the filter. Change it when it's cold and sat for 7 hrs or more.
residue on paint, use any one of the manufacturers of a clay bar (clay magic, Mothers, etc), it will remove all that residue. I have used it on a yellow 95 Mustang GT, black 90 Lexus LS400 and a jewel green 96 Lexus LS400 all with great results!! Makes the follow up wax job look great!!
sally, realistically if you don't live on some county road or never intend on going off road a 2WD with a locking differential will do you just fine. I had a 72 Chevy Cheyenne Super short box 2WD for 8 years living in Boulder, Co and only got stuck once (thanksgiving blizzard of 1981 I believe). And that truck DID NOT have a locking rear end!
Ryan
As for extended warranties, if you are going to get one, get the GM one. Negotiate the price, their is tons of dealer mark up. I got one for my wife's car that is 6yr/70K mile with no deductible, for $1000. Retail was $1500. You could do better, but I was beat down by the whole process by that point and was happy to get it for $1000 My parents had a non-GM one before, and it wasn't worth the hassle. Every service required serious crap. Calling back and forth to the warranty people about what the service people said, was it covered, etc. Then they started screwing around saying they would only pay X amount for an alternator, so it would have to be a rebuilt unit, that they would have to ship to the dealer, etc. Blah, blah, blah...It is an endless debate as to whether these warranties are worth it. You would be better off taking the $1000, investing in mutual funds, and call it your repair account, but I know it just doesn't work that way for some of us, so if you are going to get one, get the GM one, and save yourself the grief. Be sure you see GM on what you sign, my parent's non-GM warranty was sold through the dealer, and they had no idea it wasn't a GM plan until after the trouble started.
My grey liner is close to the Pewter color and the test sample didn't really fade, but instead developed a very slight yellow tint to it. This is very apparent with a side-by-side comparison, but if the entire bed changed color slightly you probably wouldn't notice it. The test sample actually matches the Pewter better than the original color, but again just slightly.
If you want my $.02, there are too many black liners, go with the grey if it fits your truck color.
Larry
So I ordered my truck with the camper/trailer mirrors. They are black, unfortunately not power adjustable and extendable if you ever carry a big load or a trailer. I really like these mirrors, they have a larger field of view and the can see around my camper. Another plus is they are a credit over the standard power chrome mirrors.
Mike L
The best time to change the oil is when it is hot and just shut down. If you wait until it cools (or overnight as you suggest) some contaminants in the oil will settle down to the bottom of the pan and not come out with the oil. Then when you fire up the engine with fresh oil, it may stir up the deposits and recirculate the same harmful stuff. If you change the oil while that stuff is still in suspension, it will come out with the oil.
It may be less painfull to change the oil when it is cold (hot oil burns when it splashes on me), but it is a better practice for the engine.
My 2 cents.
Mike L
Also took some pics of the rail caps and mudflaps for you all to see. Itll probably take a few wks to post gotta get em developed first
Ryan
Says this is the first one they've seen with the self adjusters stuck, probably because "the owner never uses the parking brake".
Got plenty of stress in my life, only fought a little, talked with the mechanic......
Short story is next time you have the rear tires off, pull the rotor and check to see if your parking brakes are working right.
BTW, use the parking brake 6 times a day or more (man tranny), and don't drive around with it on. Wonder if there is a design defect in the new "top-hat" parking brake system.
Agree with the 6 to 7 on the hot scale
Also in this area they are giving $500 rebates only on 4WD.
No real debate here, we are just voicing our opinions. I don't think any of us will change what we have been doing, nor do I expect to cause anyone to change. But I had let bluebeast know why I did not agree with him.
Mike L
If the person from Alaska is still around, claying will remove most impurities. If its an oily finish on the truck...nothing beats Dawn. But you're going to have to apply some wax after the Dawn as it will strip the wax completely off your truck.
The people hoping to adjust shift points with the HPPIII should know that the only time the HPIII will work on adjusting the shift points is at WOT. Be sure to adjust your rpm rev limiter or you will experience the shift point/rpm limiter experience where your truck will still be holding the gear and you will be exceeding the rev limiter, oh what a bad feeling.
Thought I'd pass this on.
-Jarvus
thanks,
kyle
Oil changes - don't you thing GM knows that the oil is better. My oil is dark and dirty by the time the oil change light comes on. On the new truck, will run M1 after breakin and still change at the oil light period (typically 3 to 4k miles for my use)
Heck, I change my 4-stroke dirtbike's oil at 150 to 200 miles.... wet clutch, and runs dang hot.... ~55hp out of 40cubic inches displacment. Frequent oil changes insure a long life.
Also, let us know if you had to shave the center bolt head on the velvets to fit the shackle bracket.
For me, this setup virtually eliminated any body lean on turns and made the truck handle more like a car. The ride was improved, but it is still not as solid or comfortable as my old 1970s era 3/4 ton pickups (IMHO)- things change - trucks are much improved in other ways.
I think your money is well spent on these functional improvements. Good Luck.
He also said GMC will not offer the Pewter interior anymore, only Graphite or Neutral.
Has anyone seen the Neutral? How does it compare to the previous Oak color? Maybe this is same color they have in a van or other car?
I sure would like to know what it looks like before I order it!!! Thanks.
I got a price from a dealer in St. Louis today for a 2001 LT. Only options are Z71 and locker. He included P265-75R 16 BSW. Price less Tax/Title/License = $29,780. What do you think?
Also, test drove a 2000 LT, Z71, Locker this evening. My main interest was the leather bucket seats. I'm 6'2, 300 lbs. Test drive was about 30 miles and for half of it, I kept sliding forward. Adjusted the seat up so that my butt was lower than the back of my knees and I stayed put. The suspension seemed very rough for the majority of my driving (city/highway) vs: the little bit of mudding I will do during duck season. The truck had 2 miles on it and I experienced no front end vibrations upto 80 MPH. But, the noise coming from the rear quarter windows was insulting. Salesman acted freaked out when I showed him I could see daylight just by pushing out with a little pressure.
I know package for the dollars that the LT makes sense, but what about the Z71? If I skip getting the Z71 package, am I going wrong?
I've been following the Silverado posts on Edmunds since August 99 and feel very informed.
Thanks for all of your posts,
Dean
Jerry
Yes, I'm in the STL area and would appreciate your input. Please contact me at dinotwo
@excite.com with your recommendations. Z71 has not impressed me for the conditions I will be operating in for the next three years. Please pass along the dealer info.
Thanks,
Dean
Hope your still around to give some specific details on your Auxiliary gas tank -
This little tank on the '00 6.0 2500 LT SB 4x4 ext. cab is pretty STUPID!! Waiting to see if the '01's increase size like Dodge!! But still probably need Aux. installation.
I see your pictures and looks like what I need when pulling 5th wh. also -
Could you give specific details on following?
Tank Brand? Gal. size? Mounted exactly? Fuel switching-electric solenoid? fuel from aux. to main tank? Anything you'd do diff.? Cost? Where to buy the "stuff"? Any part no's?
Also on your folding cover? Brand? Rain tight? Mounts how? Etc.
Thanks - AOPA-1
As far as that post with the protective film on the paint, that is a new one. Maybe the factory put it on due to the delivery location. Have you called your dealer and asked him about it? You might try Meguiars cleaner and wax if the dealer can't help you. As for the water spots, that is pretty typical of the base-coat, clear-coat applications...just towel it down good (clean white towel) after you wash it and it shouldn't be a problem. Lot of detailers will use a chamois cloth but personally I don't like them as they are hard to keep clean. That material really seems to attract dirt.
Sally: Get the 4WD, you won't regret it. Besides, it'll give you more buttons to play with!
clay
If you opt of the package you get 46mm Tenneco shocks, jounce bumper guards, front & rear stab. bars, engine, transmission, transfer case & front diff. skid plates (I don't know why GM doesn't include a fuel tank plate?) & the Z71 decal.
I bought the Z71 pkg. but opted to replace the Tenneco shocks with Edelbrock IAS shocks (I'm very glad I did) the ride is much improved & the handling is even better.
Happy early bday.
Ryan
average gas milage is between 13 and 15 (havent got higher than 17mpg must be the way i drive but 85% is city right now).
No major mechanical problems (knock on wood) only been in the shop for body work. Only have a nagging rattle. Almost ripped the trim on the dash out this morning ill probably take it in soon and have them fix it.
I cant beleive i have had it for 2 months already. This thing is great.
Ryan
Just work them as much as you guys do to Ryan and you'll do just fine.
-Jarvus
Thoughts/Ideas?
Ryan
Ryan
www.weather.com
it'll TELL you what the chances of rain are...
kyle