Chevy Silverado - Continued XII

meredithmeredith Member Posts: 575
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
This topic is a continuation of Topic 1891....

Chevy Silverado - Continued XI. Please continue
these discussions here. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host


  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Silverado XII is here finally...
  • 87lion87lion Member Posts: 166
    About installing your own hitch. I bought a hidden hitch from JC Whitney for about $95. Installed it myself. Three bolts on each side of the frame and two bolts to the bumper. Installation did NOT match the instructions. Same as the Reese hitch, all you see unless you're under the truck is the receiver.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    We just keep going and going and going

    Kinda like the energizer bunny.

    Im glad to be a part of this.

    Guess what Tim it rained yesterday 2 hrs after i washed my truck (told you 100% chance)and it only rained for 10 min enough for it to get dirty AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH im so mad but hey i still have my streak going .

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    don't wash your truck!

    - Tim
  • 87lion87lion Member Posts: 166
    I have had very good luck using newspaper to wash my windows. Use Windex or whatever and apply with a rag. Don't spray it on the windows as over spray can discolor trim and remove wax. Then wipe the window clean with crumpled newspaper. Doesn't leave any streaks or lint.
  • jaumenjaumen Member Posts: 54
    Has anyone lesased their new vehicle then bought the vehicle at the end of the lease? I am interested in finding out if anyone has done the research on this anc crunched the numbers to see if it is cost effective.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    if you were to pay cash for it at the may be worth doing....

    But to lease for 2-3 years....then finance it for 3-5....better off buying it

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    banks will do a zero down loan...if it's the money up front that is killing you?

    I thought about leasing....but need extra miles..

    I drive 22K a year.
    lease would have been $550
    I pay almost $600 on a zero down 5 year loan...
    I will sell it after two years off balance...and walk away with 6-8K....deduct that from the payments...and it cost me around $300 a month for a 2500 LT

    Good luck

    - Tim
  • jaumenjaumen Member Posts: 54
    I was planning on putting about 10K down, lease for 2 yrs. and save another 10K then finance the remainder for 2 yrs.
  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    The $275 for the GM hitch was for the hitch, trailer plug, 36mm shocks and a transmission cooler. Not a bad price for all of that installed.
  • wtkingwtking Member Posts: 43
    Anyone who thinks they're going to sell a 2 year old truck with 44,000 + miles on it, pay-off a zero down 5-year loan balance, and walk away with 6-8k is obviously DREAMING.

    Better put some fresh batteries in your calculator!!

    What would we do without Tim, and all his wind!!
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Obviously you haven't run any numbers..

    Put 10K down on a lease?...

    If you were to buy it...and the whole lease/buy took 4 years...that doesn't sound too bad...

    why take that route instead of just buy with a 4 year loan?

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    after 2 years is think I can't get $24K for a 2500LT?....think again...better check the prices of used trucks again..

    - Tim
  • jaumenjaumen Member Posts: 54
    Ran through some numbers on the GMBUYPOWER web site and if I put down that amount my payments for 2yrs would be around $70.00 per month for the two years. Then I could take the amount I would have spent on the payments and put it away for the two years and be able to finance a minimum amount.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ..But 10K down seems like a lot for a lease?

    If you were sure you would but it at the end....I guess that's cool...

    I just don't think anyone should put a penny down on any lease....but if you were to buy it...I guess it's OK.

    Have you looked into an Up-front lease? may be almost there as to what you need for the one time payment?

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The purpose of leasing is to NOT have to put any money down. Any financial advisor will tell you NOT to put anything down...No capital nothing. If you totaled your vehicle while leasing, the insurance company pays off the leasing company for the value of the vehile which includes residual value...your deposit is history as you have no equity with a lease. Better off putting $10K down on a 4 year loan. Better yet...a lot of manufacturers give low interest loans on select vehicles 0-2.9%. If you can get an investment after tax return better than the special interest, put even less down...on a loan.
    My $.25
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157 could lose all your moohlah....or have the totaled truck you could buy it?

    I wouldn't put anything down on a lease...period.

    Take the 10K and finance it....unless the payments would be too much?

    - Tim
  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    Price of gas is getting way too high. Thinking about converting it to dual fuel propane/gasoline since propane would be less than half the price of regular gas...
  • jaumenjaumen Member Posts: 54
    Many points well taken...I am meeting with the leasing agent where I will be ordering my truck next week. I will have many questions for him at that time. All the additional input to this topic is well appreciated. Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    how much would that conversion cost? affect warranty? just wondering...
  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    about $2000, and as much as I drive it would probably pay for itself in about 1-2 years. I think there are some grants for this type of thing also, but I don't know where yet. I work at a propane plant and I could get this stuff about 1/3 the price of gas - somebody like yourself could probably get it about 2/3's the price or maybe a little less...
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    I just bought 200 gallons of propane for my home tank on Friday. 1.039 per gallon (Oklahoma City). Assuming I could get the same "milage" i.e. ~18 mpg, and drive 15,000 miles per year, I would only save about $300-$350 per year at a savings of $.45 per gallon. The only problem, of course, is that it is illegal to run propane purchased for home heating in your vehicle, as you are not paying any "road use tax" on it. I think it's okay for farmers to use in vehicles not used on public roads, though. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think I could get anywhere near 18 mpg running propane, though, as the energy content is not as high as gasoline. Plus, you also loose cargo space and payload capacity by carting around that huge pressurized tank of propane.
  • treyduhontreyduhon Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your input on shocks for the 3/4 ton. I've heard about the Edelbrocks and the Bilsteins, but I wasn't aware of the different kinds of Bilsteins. I'm just trying to plan the best upgrades for when I actually buy this truck. BTW, I've decided to wait until the crew cab 3/4 ton with short box comes out. I'm quite sure that I want 4 big doors and not just extended cab with 2 extra suicide doors. Until then, just learning from everyone's experiences.

    My dad just got a fifth-wheel camper and needed to upgrade his truck. He's got a '94 2500 ext cab 2wd (pre-vortec 350), but it's a light-duty 3/4 ton. He tried pulling it once and nearly overheated the engine. So, he put in a heavy duty radiator and trans cooler, which has solved the temp problems. He also installed an air ride system for the rear axle, which completely solved the suspension problems. The drawback is a very rough ride when not pulling the trailer. Just FYI for anyone considering air ride suspension.

    White6, my dad's also a propane dealer, and has converted just about everything we own to run on propane, at one time or another. It' been our experience (as yours) that it is cheaper and that you have to find a place to mount the tank. Other benefits are that propane burns alot cleaner and improved engine life, because you've got more fuel on board you have less frequent stops to fill up. Gas mileage is about the same, and you lose just a tad of horsepower compared to gas. But still a worthwhile alternative to gas.
  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    you notice less than 10% loss in mileage and power - propane vs. diesel. You are right about the tax, but the price is basically much cheaper right now. It's all based on where you live and like I said I can get it about 1/3 the price. Thinking of mounting the tank where the spare tire is...
  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    propane is about 110? octane I think. Much cleaner than Gasoline and you would get much more engine life so long as it is maintained properly...
  • rob169rob169 Member Posts: 13
    How often do you guys lube your zerks?

    OK, you all can go ahead and stop laughing now...LOL!

    Thanks for great zerk pics. Same fittings as on my 00 Tahoe. I'm going to use the Mobil 1 synthetic grease, but I don't know when I should first lube em' or how often I should do it. Any tips?
  • dallas75dallas75 Member Posts: 72
    Thanks for the info on the phone. I'm guessing that the plug is for speaker input from the phone.

    I perfom a chassis lube every second oil change which is approximately 6000 miles between each lube.
  • bob332bob332 Member Posts: 137
    My mistake in identifying your truck as an LT. I knew better, but just slipped up on that in addition to her working at the DQ. Mine is also an LS and likewise because we did not want the leather seats. With all the options that we ordered we probably paid more for our LS than we would have paid for an LT. I was looking forward to talking to that young lady at the DQ, now that is not going to be possible since she does not work there. Well, I tried to help you but now you are on your own with her. Having some fun with you. We will be traveling through your immediate area next Friday or Saturday. I'll honk at each Hammond Exit. Bob
  • bob332bob332 Member Posts: 137
    I have the gm factory ride control suspension on my 1500. There is a noticeable change in ride when I push the button to activate it. I have not used it with a heavy load or in trailering. But, I think it will be a good thing to have when it is needed and a better ride for the 95% of the time when empty and I don't need it. Bob
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    A lease is just another form of financing (same as a loan), except it gives you the option to walk away at the end. Most leases written today (on cars and trucks) want a capital cost reduction (this is the same as a down payment), you make monthly payments (just like a loan) and believe it or not the company you make the payment to records your payment as part interest and part principle (just like a loan). What I can't figure out is why you want to do a lease deal when you plan to buy it out at the end anyway. IMO the lease will cost you more $$ than a loan. Why? because the lease transfers some risk to the lessor, the risk of determining what the truck will be worth at the end of the lease. This risk is built into the lease rate. In this case you will be paying the lessor a fee for assuming this risk, but you plan to buy it at the end. You will be paying for something you do not plan to use.

    I worked for a leasing company for 3 years. Most of the time a lease will cost you more than a loan, some of the time a lease will cost the same as a loan, once in a blue moon a lease will cost less than a loan. If it does cost less the leasing company made a mistake and over estimated what the value of the truck (car) will be at the end of the lease.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    hknoepfle, I did respond to your rear speaker replacement question. I asked you to update your Edmunds profile because I had some info to e-mail you but it bounced back. So let me know your current e-mail address. I replaced the rears and installed an amplified Bazooka tube. A good bump in quality for under $300.

    I'll be away for a few weeks so I won't be able to respond until I return.
  • gnippergnipper Member Posts: 120
    I use RainX on the Windows every year or so. That stuff is great for keeping the water running off of them. For daily cleaning I bought Invisible Glass. I found it in a Popular Mechanics or Popular Science magazine I believe. It seems to be very good. And as already suggested newspaper is about the best for cleaning any product back off the glass. I'm a Zaino convert, but I didn't try their glass cleaner.

  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    bugs are a big problem on mine. I spend more time scrapping the bugs off the front than on the whole rest of the truck. I just saw in a catalog a bra to go on the front of a Silverado, but don't know how that would look. What do you think? There about 100$...
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    what was the outcome on the zerk fitting bet?

    Swobig, i think the bra would look just fine.
    especially when you consider the added protection
    that you get from them. i like, Bluebeast, am
    getting sick of removing the bug guard for
    cleaning. please let me know where you saw the
    bra and how much.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    reference post were replying to wtking, not werking. i wasn't giving you lip about your preferred financing methods...

    i hit the zerks with 3-5 squirts each, each time i change the oil and filter. i'm already under there and greasy anyways. if you take the brushguard off before you get started you can pretty much hit all the zerks while the oil's draining.

  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    I suppose you got your hitch mounted locally or was it online(for $275), and what else would I need to be operational? Do they also connect wiring harness, etc? I didn't get a trailer package on my '00 2W-should have. I'm just talking about liught hauling and towing like moving lawn tractors, etc. What would be my best options now if I wanted to get the trailering equipment (hitch,etc): dealer, aftermarket, specialty shops? And what would I be looking at in price (would $275 be a deal or average price)? I'm finding more and more uses for a little cart-type hauler.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ..yeah..I did notice I got the two of you confused..i took a quick peak and posted...then realized after..

    If everyone was just man enough to sign their real name here....

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    If you are taking 80/94 honk at the kennedy avenue exit. Thats the one closest to me.

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    before you check out those bras...check out this link

    zerks, no zerks yet. Dealer has my truck but with some many things to keep them busy, the tech hasn't gotten around to it yet...
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    I ended up getting the harness direct from GM and paid big bucks, came with the 40 amp maxifuse but my fuse box already had one installed as I bought the GM trailering harness (20 foot long) and it too came with a fuse.

    If I did it over, would still buy the trailering harness from GM, but would buy the brake controller harness from Tekonsha....

    Oh ya, bought the heavier duty Reese receiver hitch for around $160. Higher dead tounge weight rating (800lbs)than the $100 Reece base model, as I sometimes haul motorcycles on a Hitch-it sideways mount carrier......
  • rob169rob169 Member Posts: 13
    Are there other lube points to take care of besides the 11 zerks on the front end? Like the driveshaft U-joints? Are the front ball-joints completely sealed except for the zerk access? Can I do any harm to these ball-joints by inadvertantly overlubing, or does it just create a mess to clean up? I would hate to bust one open. When you are lubing the zerks, how can you tell when enough is enough? Some of these lube points don't seem to have a rubber ball type seal like the ball-joints (? #11).

    Thanks for the info!
  • rcoosrcoos Member Posts: 167
    Edelbrock IAS shocks are for 1/2 ton pickups, according to their website not for 3/4 ton trucks?

    I don't know why anyone would put shocks designed for a 1500 pickup on a 2500???

    Maybe Rancko RSX or Monroe Reflex shocks (both do the same sort of damping as the IAS shocks) have shocks designed for 3/4 ton pickups???
  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i'll try to answer your questions one at a time.
    (mind you, i'm NOT a mechanic)

    1. Are there other lube points to take care of
    besides the 11 zerks on the front end? Like the
    driveshaft U-joints?
    not that i've found

    2. Are the front ball-joints completely sealed except for the zerk access?
    i do not know

    3. Can I do any harm to these ball-joints by inadvertantly overlubing, or does it just create a mess to clean up?
    not sure about doing harm. i DO know it makes a mess ;)

    4. When you are lubing the zerks, how can you tell when enough is enough?
    two schools of thought on this one. one, watch/feel the bushing as you add grease (hard to do unless you're real good with a grease-gun). assuming it's real soft when you start adding, when it firms up (just firm, not hard) stop adding.
    second way to do it is...add 3-5 squirts to each fitting each time you change the oil/filter. or every 5k miles or so. this was told to me by a mechanic at a chevy dealership. i follow this advice.

    i've done lubes on tanks (in the army) and it's so much easier. you just keep adding until grease squirts out the release valve. then you know it's full. duh. with these, you kinda hafta guess. next time i take it in, i'm going to ask, because my #5P doesn't seem to be holding it real well. even when i add just a little, the grease seems to leak out. gonna take it in to see if it needs a new bushing/seal. i'll let you know, but don't hold your breath. it'll be another 3k miles yet...

  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    The hitch I got was installed by GM for $275. It came with the 36mm shocks & the trans cooler.
    I think U-Haul installs good hitches and will wire up your trailer plug. You want a class three hitch.

  • wtkingwtking Member Posts: 43

    If you want my name, look at my profile!!

    I'd think a "Super Genius", windbag, LURD, like you ought to be able to figure that one out.

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ..You did what I wanted...

    Mission accomplished!

    - Tim
  • leavyleavy Member Posts: 34
    I'd say 1/2 ton 2wd reg cab short bed with the 5.3/auto and 4.10 locker would be quickest in 1/4.
    Don't really think the auto penalizes at all, if anything, it helps. Quicker shifts, less shifting.

    To 60 mph, I'd say same truck with 4wd. Much better 60 foot performance.
  • gmcsierragmcsierra Member Posts: 40
    Was your hitch a factory installed option or a dealer add on? In the SouthEast, gm wants $275 for the hitch, no installation, no shocks, no oil cooler, just the hitch and bolts in a box "if it is not a factory installed option". I think they just charge $275 if you order the truck with it.

    Reese hitch I got for $94 was rated for 750lbs tongue weight and 7500lbs trailer weight(more if you use the weight distribution system forget the numbers thought). I've seen three different hitches made by Reese that fit these trucks, and they all have different weight ratings. I'm more of a sport truck guy myself, so the primary purpose of putting it on there was to pull the occasional boat to the lake etc.

    The trans cooler is standard on the gm trucks. It is built into the radiator, but its there. So unless you are doing major towing "alot", you should see no need for the optional add-on cooler that comes with the towing package gm sells with the factory installed hitch. If you are going to pull alot, you want the extra cooler. It'll save you a toasted tranny down the road.

    As for the trailer wiring, its already there for non-electric brake applications. Taped to the frame above the spare tire. Doesn't have an end on it thought. Your manual tells you how to hook up a harness plug to it. This is for those of us that didn't opt for the factory hitch.

    Anyone have a price on the gm electric brake parts? (controller and wiring) I've read some postings about it, but haven't seen any prices.

    Any help would be appreciated!

    gmc sierra
  • swobigswobig Member Posts: 634
    and blow the seal and therefore have to add more grease cause it will keep leaking out of the seals. I would think 1 pump per 5K miles would be plenty, 3-5 sounds like to much to me, but it's just my 2 cents...
  • khharriskhharris Member Posts: 51
    Did you notice a big difference in performance with the Borla exhaust.

This discussion has been closed.