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Chevy Silverado - Continued XII



  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    can you get for $50k, a '99 or '98 used perhaps. All the new ones start at $62k and up. For the LS 400 anyway which bluebeast is talking about.
  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    No need for sarcasm. My statement is backed up in the owner’s manual. It clearly calls for a multi-weight. As you well know, if you give the dealer a reason to reject a warranty they will.
    As to why a running engine was taken apart at 170,000 miles. The rear main seal was leaking on that engine (300 six – Ford) and while the pan was down I put in a high volume oil pump. The crank, rods and pistons are clearly visible at that point. Again not one bit of sludge in the pan or anywhere else for that matter. By the way, I don’t care what oil you use, you’re going to have the metal discolored from the oil. Especially with that many miles.

    Ash, sulfur & acid are by products due to combustion (I don’t think I said they were added. I said the were low in those.) but Havoline comes in pretty low on the scale.

    Use what you want, I’m sure everyone has their favorite oil. That’s just my opinion from my experience. I still stick by multi-weights over straight weights.
    I think we can all agree on one thing. If you continually change your oil & filter you won’t have any problems.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    used quaker state 5w30 first two changes (3500 & 7000). will switch to M1 5w30 next change (10500).

    used AC PF59 first two changes, if i can find one, i'll use it again next change. o/w M1 #201. will prefer AC PF59's though.

    live in sc now, moving to pa/nj/va/md area in a year.

    never used any fuel additives, never will.

    my 0.02

  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    That is a great site you found on oil and more! It explains everything perfectly. A must read for everyone!

  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    for the follow up post. Appreciate you taking the time to do that. Did you get the Magnaflow on line yourself or did the shop order it? The resonance everyone seems to be complaining about occurs at freeway speeds...a sort of "droning" sound. Did you kep your old muffler and pipes? Just wondering in case you ever had an exhaust problem and the dealer made you put it back to oem specs. I will check out that link right now.

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    you could scribble two of your three posts by clicking on the blue number on the left. eg. #271 of 272: when the new screen opens click on scribble and the post will be history...
  • stvokcstvokc Member Posts: 32
    Can someone explain the difference between polish and wax. Which is better to use on my new truck? What is the best kind of wax/polish to use. Is there a better one that you can order and is there a good one you can get at WalMart or Auto Zone. Is there one you can get from the Auto paint wholesale place. Not sure what to use on my new 00 but want to use something real good.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    lot of great polishes and waxes out there. Better to let the pros explain it all. I'm kinda partial to this brand so I'll give you the link to check them out...


    I thought I saw it all until I tried this brand...
    good luck!!
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    see the following for an explanation


  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    also...check out the "maintenance and repair" conference. do a search for wax, or polish, or whatever...they have some great threads in there too.

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    A polish will make it shine....add to the luster so to speak....a wax protects it..

    some are Polish/wax combined..

    It's better to do in seperate stages.

    Polish (maybe even more than one step)

    Another good wax is Malms


    It doesn't have the buzz as Zaino does right now...as it has been around for decades. It is mail order only.

    For my Hurst/Olds I use 3M hand Glaze. It does not offer much protection from the elements (it does bead water and offer a tiny bit of protection)...but it does not sit outside or even see Rain..so that is OK.

    A good clean/polish/wax....and keep shiny with Glaze..(dark vehicles)...makes a very good looking truck.

    Good luck

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Both are Black....so I know the agony of dark colors...

    - Tim
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    My Dad and I have been using Liquid Glass for years and love it. We haven't found anything that goes on, comes off easier. Looks great on dark colors. More coats = 'wetter' look.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    waxing wisdom brought to you by our resident
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Use Mequires (spelling?) polish and waxes on Truck when I get around to it.

    Use Liquid Glass, multiple coats, on my purty Street Bike paint. Does look great on purple/blue.....
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    What did you guys use there are 3 different AC delcos

    UPF59 - Ultraguard gold
    SPF59 - Duraguard silver
    PF59 - Duraguard

    Im thinking ill probably go with the gold

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i used the pf59. i don't do anything overly taxing with mine (unless you consider hauling two adults and some luggage at 80 mph taxing)usually. not sure what/if any benefits there are to the silver/gold protection for the average joe...

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    ...if the gold/silver is only a couple bucks more...go with that. i can't imagine it can hurt. i'm not sure i'd go spending $10 on a filter for 5000 miles though. (assuming you won't be doing a great deal of towing/hauling or off-roading)

    my 0.04

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I plan to start to go offroading next month. My uncle told me of a few spots he used to go. Nothing major just some trails and small hills. Good beginners stuff.

  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Let's have one or two more posts on wax, and then resume our regular schedule.


    1.)wheel flares
    2.)spray in liners
    3.)bug shields
    4.)side steps
    5.)3/4 vs 1/2
    6.)oil topic
    8.)new business
    9.)old business
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    GREG: Thanks again for the follow-up. I'll probably keep the old muffler only because if I ever had a problem even remotely related to the exhaust, the dealer could play hard ball. I did check out that link: your right, a lot of good info there. I'm sure my muffler shop would have to order the Magnaflow, I'll talk to them this week. The 2 1/2 inch "in" is probably the route I will take as I do want a relatively quiet system.

    I've used Meguiars products for years and am a real fan of them. Meguiars #9 is an excellent swirl remover which will quickly remove all the minor surface imperfections. Wash the vehicle again and then follow up with #6 cleaner and wax. Or I also use their yellow paste wax. I forget the number but it easy to find in any auto parts store.

    If you have more serious problems, e.g., bird poop, or harsh stains, use Meguiars #5 which is a little more agressive but it will not cut too deep. I always use a power buffer with a foam pad but I would not recommend this to someone that has not done it before. Practice on your wife's car first! But, always put the cleaner/wax on by hand with a soft cotton cloth changing it often. A baby's diaper works great, I have used them for this purpose for years.

    I really feel you can never wash your truck too often, minimum of once a week, more often if it gets real dirty. I wax my truck at least three times a year, four if I've washed it a lot.

    My .02 cents.

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    could you be more specific on items 1-4. you
    know, colors, brands, do you need to drill holes
    or not. also you did'nt mention mudflaps or floor
    mats. oh, don't forget about spark plugs either.
    we'll also need more participation from Tim to
    get all the right answers.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Nice post Quad, quick followup Red....

    Biggest disappointment about my new 2500HD is it will come with those queer looking plastic fender flares.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    '00 GM C/K truck Brake Diagnostic Check

    1. Check master cyl fluid level
    2. Check pwr steering fluid level
    3. Perform hyd booster functional test-normal function-brake pedal
    falls away, then pushes back, abnormal results, see accumulator leak-
    down system not holding charge below
    4. a.turn ignition off
    b.park brake not applied
    c.sart engine
    normal function-Brake warning indicator illuminates briefly
    abnoral results-brake warning ind always on or inoperative
    5. With the vehicle in park, perform the brake pedal travel test.
    normal function-brake pedal moves steadily toward floor, approx
    2-3 inches, brake pedal stops and is firm against the pressure (hyd
    brake booster may hiss or clunk/click/clatter w/ high brake pedal
    abnormal results-test for brake pedal excessive travel, test for
    brake pedal travel gradually increases

    Accumulator Leak-down test for soft or spongy brakes

    1. Start engine
    2. Charge the accumulator by pressing the brake pedal or by completely
    turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other.
    3.Turn the engine off. Let sit for 1 hr.
    4. Perform 2 pwr assisted applications with the engine off
    (pump brakes twice)
    5. If accumulator failed to hold a charge after 1 hr, but functions
    after 1 hr, the accumulator valves are malfunctioning. Replace the
    6. If the charging and discharing of the accumulator is audible,
    the accumulator still fails to hold a charge, the valve is
    malfunctioning. Replace the accumultor.
    7. Empty the accumulator by pressing the brake pedal 30 times.
    8. The accumulator can will rotate or wobble if the accumulator has lost
    its gas charge. Replace the accumulator

    Brake pedal travel should be no more than 70mm (2.75 inches),
    most common causes are 1. external leak, 2.internal leak
    (master cylinder), 3. air in system,

    Hope this helps
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    The yellow Meguiars wax is #26.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    What in the heck are you talking about? The fender flares make the truck look "sporty". If you dont like em take em off. Give em to someone who will enjoy them

    Guys went to 3 more placers today

    2 kmarts and 1 autozone no oil filters. Can you buy them online anywhere??? PLEASE HELP!!! haha


  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    great entry title. i had to take a couple of
    looks to make sure i was'nt seeing what i thought
    i saw. sorry to hear that yoy're gonna get stuck
    with the extra plastic.
  • anonymousanonymous Member Posts: 314
    maybe you can get a K&N oil filter so you can
    just wash it out and then reoil it. be careful
    when reoiling though. this way you can change oil
    as often as you like.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    best...queer to some awesome to others... ;)
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Whatever floats your boat

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    forget the K&N, they don't make them for our
    trucks yet. i do have a 1/2 dozen pf59's though.
    be glad to give you one but, you gotta come and
    get it or pay for shipping. fair enough?

  • kernickkernick Member Posts: 4,072
    AC Delco. One had the 59's, the other didn't. Price was like $2.50 ea.
    They also have the best floormats for $5 ea. or so. Look like they'll hold a 1/2 gal. of water. I threw the originals right in the garbage.

    Also I went to Sears to buy some 285's this weekend. They said "won't fit" your stock 1500 rims. He looked it up in the book. I've seen pictures of trucks with 285's and even 305's ... but haven't noticed if they were aftermarket wheels? What about it?
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    any suggestions on where to buy the IAS shocks,
    and for the best purchase price?

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Yellow wax is a very good choice for off the shelf as well.

    I thought you were the King of waxing it?

    - Tim
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    where you been hidin? he he

  • gnippergnipper Member Posts: 120
    Sears is actually correct. The tires per manufacture specs are not designed for the stock rims. Not home with the truck, but I think the stocks are 7" and 285's (at least BF Goodrich) says they are designed for 7.5 or 8, I don't remember which. Most all tire places will install them anyway, Discount did for me, they didn't have a concern at all - only said the tread will wear uneven if you keep em aired up to max (But you won't want to do that for ride quality anyway). Just keep the air pressure down for a more comfortable ride and more even tread wear (air em up when you're hauling a big load).

    But if Sear's follow the book - they probably won't install them for you.

    There are many people running the 285's on stock wheels, including myself. So try finding another tire dealer and enjoy the upgraded tires. By the way there is absolutely no rubbing on my 2000 Z71.

  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    TIM: You did a good job on your earlier post explaining the difference between polishes and waxes. I agree, they each do a separate job and should be done in two applications.

    There are a lot of good waxes and cleaners out there. Find a brand you like and stick with it. It's not so much the brand you use...it's just getting out there and doing it!

    Your truck will always run better if it looks good. No kidding!

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I thought you were telling Ryan that they don't make the K&N air intake for the Silverado. I reread your post and you were talking about oil filters...
  • rskrsk Member Posts: 38

    PF-59 Oil filters are available at your local Chevy/GMC dealer. It might cost a couple of bucks more than someplace else but at least your not running all over town trying to find one.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Red no thanks man ill find one (when i find them im gonna buy a few hundred haha)

    Randy thanks man good suggestion. I dont know if im gonna do my oil change saturday now (dads golfing and i am gonna go to a softball game, yes its for the girl) it might be early next wk so i still have some time.

    Thanks guys

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    as Quad has said...if you are going to do it yourself...(which I want pictures of if you do)..LOL....Buy it at the dealer..so there is a record of it for service. If you can't prove you did it, and there is an engine problem....you be screwed!

    Yup...the key is to do it!

    I used Meguires Cleaner/Wax for over a decade. Did it work good?...yes. It will take slight oxidation off as well as Wax and leave a damn good shine.
    It all comes down to how anal you want to be I guess? For dark colors..to me...a cleaner wax is like using sandpaper. I Polished my Hurst/Olds so much..you could see the primer in some spots. So i finally broke down...Spent about $6000 on a nice paint job...and she is soooooo nice now. Not a spec of Orange peel...smooth as glass. It was that way before after all the waxing...uhh..where is this going?...oh yeah wax!
    ..Lot's of good stuff out there. Will you see a difference on white or pewter using Zaino or Malms VS Meguires?....maybe not....
    Now Black and Blue you will..

    Use whatever you want...and it all comes down to how farr you want to take it how long you want to spend doing it...and of course..How much mooolah you wanna pay!

    Every time I wash the Olds..I glaze the entire car. Now the truck..(I hate washing that damn thing)...I think I have yet to vaccuum the interior?.....LOL

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    pics of what? Me covered in oil? I gotta get a digital camera soon.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    you forgot:
    * performance accessories like:
    k&n intake
    magnaflow exhaust
    edelbrock ias shocks
    hypertech chips

    * all of us picking on ryan for any number of things

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i don't necessarily agree with buying the filter at the dealer, just to prove warranty issues. granted, i have no previous experience with fighting a warranty battle (knock on wood). i do keep my receipts of buying oil and filters and a very anal record of the maintenance i perform. but i can't imagine having to purchase replacement parts at the dealership to prove warranty claims. not trying to cause a stir, but, do you buy your oil at the dealer? i understand, getting the filter at the dealer can be cheap peace of mind. and, if you're like me (and it sounds like ryan and a bunch of others too) who may have to resort to getting filters at the dealer cuz that's the only place i can find them, ok... don't completely buy the warranty justification though.

    my 0.02...

    by the way, what do we have to do to see a pic of this beautiful paint job on your hurst/olds. i know, it's a silverado board, but i think we can take the criticism of a few folks who are jealous. post some pics man!!!

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I do my own oil changes and have the scars to prove it. I remember one time, on a windy day, was changing the oil filter and a gust of wind blew the oil towards me, of course I ducked to get out of the way...just that the tierod got in the way of my ducking...NEVER change oil on a windy day or if you do make sure it's in the garage...

    Since I'm the lazy type when keeping records, I'll just have a friend who is an ASE certified mechanic with his own shop sign off on the servicing of the truck. Keeps the dealer happy and me under warranty...
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I have not always bought them at the dealer...and have never had a warranty engine problem to deal with..(knock on head)...but it gives them one less thing to come back on if it should ever happen. In this society of pointing fingers...who knows man.

    Pics of the Olds?...Ya know...all these pics I have snapped with the Digital...and I have yet to do any with the H/O....hmmmm

    I don't even think I have any in the computer!

    it's still in the back room of the garage, but I can uncover it..(may be a little dusty) and snap a few soon for yawl..

    I will have to scan some pics of it in the sun..or wait until voodoo Ryan quits his rain dances here!


    I like 68/69 H/O's....but didn't end up with one. When I was at the end of high school..the 15th Anniversary H/O (1983) was out and I thought it was the nicest car around. A few years after High school..I bought one...(rolled it later)..then bought another nicer one. The 81-88 Cutlas Body style was always one of the body styles that just grew on me....and the H/O was the only configuration I would have it in.
    The early eighties were the "we gotta use emissions, but have no clue how to get power with them" years...but it goes good for that year. Fastest car for that year..beats a Camaro/Firebird/Stang...and there was no Grand national or even an 83 vette....( I know...it's still farr behind todays cars..so don't tell me)..but it gets lots of looks.

    blah blah blah...

    I'll get something posted soon...

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Blame the rain on me havent washed my truck in a wk

  • btenvybtenvy Member Posts: 43
    Sorry didn't look at the site the whole weekend, was golfing and other stuff. I got a black spray in Line-X had it for only a couple of weeks and it is great no fading, nice sharp lines, good texture and I am well pleased. We are getting a digital camera at work, I'll email pictures to whoever is interested in seeing them.

    Just let me know if you want to see them.

  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    Being first to admit I am certainly no Mr Goodwrench and with the risk of embarrassment, I ask the following. The oil drain plug has a flexible tip that has grease on it. What is the purpose of the flexible tip and is the grease break-in deposits or what? Should the tip be cleaned of grease? This was first oil change.

  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    Forgot to mention that local dealer (Texas) charged $6.38 for standard PF 59 filter. They are difficult to find elsewhere.
This discussion has been closed.