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Chevy Silverado - Continued XII



  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    why not kust take it to Jiffy Lube? LOL

    Don't let everyone confuse you, be smart and take
    the advice that Werking just gave you. stay with
    the AC filter.

    Bluebeast, keep an eye on your son at least
    through the first oil change.

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    i guess i should have read your entire post.
    now,now,now, are you one of those that takes
    things way to serious. trust me i respect your
    answers but, it seems that one person comes to
    bat almost right on the spot when a question is
    ask and, that person does'nt overcomplicate the
    problem when the solution is presented. geeeez

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Your Welocme Kyle hope you get them soon and you like them. Thanks for the info too keep answering.

    RED it would be a cold day in hell before i took my truck to jiffy lube. Id rather have my mom change my oil. Around here a bunch of kids (16 yr olds in hs) work at most of them. I see em when i am passing by going to menards. If anything i would take it to a chevy dealer to have it chnaged if i needed to.

    Thanks for the input

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    Ryan you don't know whatcha missin' by not going
    to speedee lube. stripped drain plugs, overfills
    or underfills and, best of all a good bulge of
    grease under and over every zerk fitting. and
    don't forget the air filter replacement. oh well
    it's your loss. ha ha

  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    You stated you use 5W-30 which is what the owner's manual recommends. I agree with your choice but the local dealers in South Texas use 10W-30. When I questioned them, they stated in a warm climate, you do not need 5W-30.

    Since you are in South Carolina, a reasonably warm climate, do you agree with what my dealer is telling me?

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    man...i wasn't pointing any fingers or nuthin'. talk about over-reacting. ;) anyways, good to see you've pulled your head out of someone's [non-permissible content removed]-crack long enough to communicate with the rest of us! LOL!!!

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i don't know enough/don't have enough experience with oil to give you great advice. if i remember right though, i think the owner's manual says something to the effect of: unless you're in a really extreme climate, you should use 5w30. i stuck with that for two reasons. first, i don't think the 5w30 is going to "hurt" me here, as i don't do a whole lot of towing or hauling. two, i'm heading back north in about a year, and i've heard bad things about switching oil types after your engine is broken in or "used to" one type. don't know if there's any validity to that advice or not.
    if you're in texas, planning on staying in texas, and plan on hauling/towing a decent bit, i think 10w30 would treat you just fine and might even be warranted. but the bottom line is that i'm prob'ly not the best person to ask.

  • anonymousanonymous Member Posts: 314
    ahe he he. thanx 'ol buddy i needed that.

    great advice on the oil subject. get this, we
    have a dealer out here that puts straight 30w in
    when they service the trucks that are brought in
    for oil changes. sorta makes you wonder.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    red...just messin' witcha...not looking to start a war now... ;)

    i know we give you a bunch of crap about not doing things yourself, but if you've got a couple hours to spare on the weekends and don't mind getting a little greasy, you might want to change your oil/filter yourself. if you don't have access to a lift, buy a set of those ramps at walmart for $25. oil drain pan for $15, grease gun, hose, and grease $20. knowledge that you're getting new oil, filter and all your bushings are getting lubed every 3500 miles (or whatever interval you choose): priceless.
    a buddy of mine used to work at pep boys as a grease monkey. told me when they got backed up, IF they did anything at all to your car, it was just the oil and filter change...not the whole 45 point or whatever service that they charged you for. that scared me.
    do it yourself man...cheapest peace-of-mind ever.
    need tips on how/what to do...email me.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i know you're in cali, but how far north are you. straight 30w? damn, i thought they only used that stuff in like, canada or somethin...

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Oil....even in warm..use 5-30...it flows faster upon start up...where the most wear is..

    Kyle,...only one person here knows anything about these trucks?....

    ..I appreciate that boss....I pride myself..Thanks!


    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    This saturday is perfect i dont work till later in the day. I have a set of ramps and all the equipment except for the filter and oil which ill get later in the week. Dad has done every oil change but 1 (got a free one with our new blaxer so he took it in) so thats why we have everything. I can even put "summer air" in my tires (air compressor). Trust me i dont mind getting dirty. U should see me after work that is one reason i wont drive my truck to menards.

    Ill probably email u later in the week im sure ill have some questions Thanks

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Moving back north? To indiana??? haha

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    nahhh...maryland, virginia, pennsylvania, jersey (hopefully not, but if the money's there...). gotta be close to home (pa) when we start makin' babies...

    tim - LOL...you're killing me man. i hope you know what i was referring too...

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Up north to me means michigan indiana illinois those states sorry.

    Hey just think if you have kidds they can go under your truck and grease the zerks haha wont need a ramp.


    Sorry for the bit of humor
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    '00 Silverado, Z71, 4Dr, LT. Pedal travels maximum of 2 inches. Simply laying foot on pedal, the truck begins to slow down. Best brakes I have seen except for Corvette.
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Been making a list of things I plan to do when I get my 2001 Silverado. Has anybody removed any of the emblems (besides z71 sticker)? How are they attached? How did you remove them?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Didnt blue have a huge post on how to remove the emblems? He had pics too didnt he??? Well hes gone now missed him by a day smikes

  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    The red or orange stuff is good for 5 yrs or 150,000 miles. No need to replace before that. I've been using this type of antifreeze in all my vehicles for the last 4 yrs or so. The long haul truckers go 300,000 before needing a booster on this stuff. Great reading on the Texaco site (Dex-cool). Usually about $2 extra bucks for either Dexcool or Prestone orange cap at most parts stores or WalMart. Don't add the green stuff or else you will have to drain and flush. My off road race bikes love the stuff, as the silicates tend to inhibit heat transfer and wear out water pump seals. I use the 50% premixed Shell Rotella non silicate antifreeze in my race bikes.

    I think yawl are crazy replacing thermostats. I can run my 4.8L at WOT in 3rd gear for 15 minutes at a time pulling my trailer uphill in AZ running 92 octane without any movement of the water temp gauge. And I don't discolor the WalMart oil I run.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    sure I know what you are talking about...the one person that knows about these things..ME..right?


    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Hes talking about me! I am the FLARE MAN!!! haha

    Hey i seen a tundra with flares. I almost puked. It was a 2wd (even smaller than 4wd) with nerf bars and had these huge flares that stuck out YUCKY

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    of a way to talk about your real truck Ryan.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I have my "real" truck. Have you not seen pics?

    Next is a hummer for me black 2 door now this is a truck

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    hey, anyone know if AM General offers flares standard from the factory? like, if i get a dark carmine red two door hummer...can i get indigo blue flares on it ya think? my tundra 2wd is about to fall apart, so i'm thinking about getting a 2wd hummer in dark carmine red with indigo blue flares...anyone have any comments??? also...anyone know how much it costs to have westin step bars installed on a hummer?

    ok, ok, sorry for beating a dead horse...


  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    2wd drive hummer?

    The dealership installs the hummers nerf bars already checked into that.

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    ryan...you kill me man!

    have you ever ridden in a hummer? i don't know about the commercial versions, but the military ones ride like there's no suspension at all. which, of course, can be fun at times. i've been a whole foot up off my seat in hummers before. real exciting like. good thing we have to wear helmets. they will go anywhere though...that's for sure. damn, they'll go anywhere. if you get one, tell them you want the fording kit. will allow you to go through water as deep as you care too. provided the current doesn't carry you away first...

  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    10W-30 is the preferred oil for almost everyone except people in the extreme north in the wintertime. The way the oil works is like this - the 5W or 10W are the real weight of the oil. When it is cold the oil will flow as a 5-weight or 10 -weight oil. As it approaches operating temp (190 degrees) it thickens to a 30-weight oil. If it were a 10W-40 it would start out as a 10 weight and thicken to a 40 weight and so on. The 10 weight is the real weight of the oil. The additives change its consistency as the heat rises. A 30 weight oil is a 30 weight oil and is used mostly in big trucks (Mack’s, etc) A 30 weight would void your warranty. 10w-30 is the best all around oil for most people.

    As for the anti-freeze you do not have to change it for 150,000 miles or 5 years. Do not add any other type of anti-freeze to it other than Dexcool or Prestone orange cap. Otherwise you will again void te warranty and also ruin the anti-freeze that is in your engine.

    On the thermostat issue, if you put in a lower thermostat you will lose gas mileage. A 190 degrees is the optimum operating temperature for the engine. If you install a lower thermostat the engine will run rich since the computer thinks it is still running cold. Believe the engineers on this one as they have done their homework and have set the computer to think their way. The computer works in concert with the crank sensor, cam shaft sensor, knock sensor, mass air flow sensor, manifold air pressure sensor and the water temp gauge. This all affects the timing of the spark and the injectors. So save yourself some work and gas – leave it at 190 degrees.

  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Buy all your comments except sorta one:

    10W-30 : The 10W-30 oil at elevated temps (100C) only thins out to that equal to a straight 30 wt oil at that same temp (100C).

    Very minor syntax....
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Kyle- Yea been in a hummer an army one. Its like a damn tank. Hmmm u got me thinking maybe i dont need a boat after all just get a hummer and ill have it all.

    Oil Filter- Went to 4 stores and no one had the AC delco PF59. Must be a popular brand. ANyone everr hear of a brand called wiks? SOme guy tried to sell me that i was like nope no good man. Hope i can find one by saturday

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    don't get me started on the "hummer is like a tank". i am a tanker...ain't no similarities between a sissy (in this case) little hummer and a seventy-ton behemoth capable of 50 mph and eliminating targets before they hear the "boom" of the main gun. none. well, except the camoflage paint job. other than that...none.

    next topic...ac delco pf 59...yeah, i had trouble finding them too. had to go to a few stores. if you haven't checked walmart - check there. auto parts stores tend to have them too. if you do find them, i'd recommend buying at least 4-6 if they have them.

  • khharriskhharris Member Posts: 51
    The husky floor liners are good,they slip very little,I only the got the fronts,just left the cheesy factory ones in the back.Does anybody know about the shocks,are edelbrocks worth the extra$$$,what about all the others,monroe,rancho,billstinns or tenaco,any ideas.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Ok for the tank comment i meant compared to other vehicles on the road not an actual tank.

    Filter- First place i tried was walmart they didnt even have a spot on the shelf for em. Next was kmart none. Then i went to 2 local autoparts places one was out and on back order and the other didnt sell them

    Truck has been getting a good workout took it again today to the lumber yard for some cement damn this truck is awesome it does it all

  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    filters are generally quite good.

    I run the AC PF59 though. Stock em at AutoZone in my dinky city. Pep Boys have em too, and Checker can order 'em.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    2001 HD Silverado Vortec 6000
    The base engine for these heavy-duty trucks is the Vortec 6000, the top mill offered in the lighter-duty Silverado/Sierra. It's been improved for its use in the 2500HD/3500.

    With a targeted power rating of 325 hp at 5,000 rpm and 370 lb-ft of torque at 4,000 rpm, it has a stout 70 more horsepower and 40 more lb-ft of torque over the 5.7 liter it replaces. A 5-speed manual transmission, now mated to a larger, more durable pilot bearing, is standard. The proven 4L80-E automatic remains an option.

    More efficient aluminum cylinder heads are better flowing, 56-pounds lighter and have improved valve-seat durability. They also dissipate heat more quickly, reduce overall cooling requirements and allow an increase in spark advance without pre-ignition.

    The deep-skirt cast-iron block has six-bolt main bearing caps, which help in the overall rigidity and the reduction of noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). There's also a new firing order that reduces stress by 7 percent on the internally balanced and counterweighted cast nodular iron crankshaft.

    A new camshaft has more lift, less duration and more overlap for improved airflow. Its main benefit is increased fuel economy, but performance improvements are also garnered with the addition of a lower-restriction exhaust system. A coil-near-plug ignition system delivers a 50 percent increase in ignition energy, helps reduce emissions and improves idle quality.

    With all this and alternative-fuel capabilities (compressed natural gas or liquid propane gas), the Vortec 6000 is a very powerful, innovative and versatile standard-equipment engine.
  • rhinncrhinnc Member Posts: 66
    I recently took a trip from NC to Mass. I have a 99 Z71, 5.3, SWB, with a Penda soft tonnau. Here is the mileage from this trip, 10743 miles on truck when I left):

    Tank 1: 320 Miles, 20.71 MPG
    Tank 2: 484 Miles, 20.53 MPG (This included over 100 miles of stop and go traffic in CT on I-95)
    Tank 3: 174 Miles, 14.94 MPG(All this tank was for in city, stop and go driving)
    Tank 4: 509 Miles, 20.62 MPG
    Tank 5: 357 Miles, 18.37 MPG

    Drove on interstates and averaged 60-75 MPH, occasionally reaching 85 MPH just to keep up with traffic. Overall, very satisfied. This was the first long distance trip in this truck. BTW use Mobil 1 5w30.
  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    Not to debate or disagree concerning oil weights, but on page 6-14 and 6-15 of the Silverado owner's manual it states "As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it is going to be 0 degrees or above."

    I, like everyone, just want what is best. Based on the owner's manual statement, do you feel the same about 10W-30? (Owner's Manual 2000)

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    if you email bluebeast and ask for the website
    that tells all about oil i'm sure he'll be glad
    to give it to you. in there it tells you things
    about viscosity improvers,ash content,zinc
    content etc. believe me it tells you all you need
    to know. one thing is for sure, the closer the
    numbers the better. ex; 10/30w has less change
    than 5/30w, but temperature plays an important
    part in which one to use. 5 flows faster than 10
    and when in the proper temp. range both will give
    the same protection at start up. synthetic will
    give the best protection but, over a long period
    of sitting will drain down just like dino.
    there's also a great column on oil in the maint.
    & repair board. you'll also see and learn alot
    about oil just by the debates alone.

  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    Thanks for the info. I remember that post and may have that website bookmarked.

    My main concern is the wording in the owner's manual "SAE 5W30 is best for your vehicle" Of course I realize they want to see me in 3 years to buy another vehicle.

    What weight do you use? Do you really use straight 30W?
  • kablotskykablotsky Member Posts: 14
    smikes (#227): i removed all emblems: the "2500" off each door and the "chevrolet" and "silverado" from the tailgate. someone had suggested fishing line -- didn't have any monofilament handy, so i grabbed some nylon string which worked fine. rubbed my finger over the glue residue, then a soapy sponge and now you can't tell the emblems were ever there.

    i changed the oil in my new silverado for the first time last weekend. it prompted a question to see who's honest :) -- who caught all the oil the first time you changed it? i did it with the truck on a slight incline so the draining oil would clear the skid plate. clear it?? it hit the exhaust pipe and split into two streams! 'fess up: how many got it right the first time?
  • anonymousanonymous Member Posts: 314
    a local dealer uses straight 30w when they do oil

    changes for their customers. not sure that it
    will hurt anything though and they are one of the

    most reputable service departments in my area. i
    change my own oil though. like others here and
    there i get off on doing alot of maintenance
    myself. just switched over to 10/30w mobil 1. i'm

    sticking with the AC pf59 filter though. i tried
    the mobil #201 and it registered a lower oil
    pressure. not sure if that will harm anything but

    why take a chance. 5/30w would be ok too but,
    after reading the oil article and what it said in

    regards to spacing between wieght numbers i'm
    sticking with 10/30w. besides, if it got down to
    24 degrees in my i area i would be totally

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    i sure like this edmunds site but could do
    without the annonymous trip.

    hey ryan, your dads only been gone for one day
    and already you got the oil subject goin again.
    yeeaaa. he he

  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431

    my wife's throwing me this funny look like, "what wacko porn site did you find now???" i was envisioning your oil hitting the exhaust pipe. holy schnikes man!!! oh my...anyways, fortunately, my first change, i had a mechanic buddy of mine show me what i needed to do. he took it on the chest. we laughed. after that...the only problems i've experienced were wind related. change the oil with a stiff breeze blowing and you'll know what i mean. good story though...

    red - thanks for the info on the m1 #201 filter. i'll look to see if i have the same results. like i said, i got it cuz it came free with a case of their oil. that plus the fact that the freakin' AC PF59's are so hard to find. may just order a bunch and throw 'em on a shelf...

  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    i bought my ac filters at wal-mart for a whopping
    2.59 and 2.99 at autozone. pep-boys sells the
    same one for 6.49 and no it's not the ac gold.
    that one goes for 10.49. makes one wonder though.
    i'm sure the Mobil 1 filter is fine, i just don't
    understand the lower oil pressure reading. it
    must be straining through a tighter mesh or
    something. my friend had the same experience so i
    know it was'nt a fluke. like i said, i'm sure
    it's not hurting anything. with me it's just a
    personal thing.

    not to change the subject but, have you heard of
    anyone using the Z-max stuff. one of our
    installers has tried it in his F-150 and says he
    is getting better gas mileage. personally i'm
    against additives but he says it comes with a
    150,000 mi warranty.

  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    I don’t know what part of the country you live in but straight 30 weight is OK for the summer. In the winter it will make the engine harder to start since the 30W will stay a 30W. The multi-weight oils are better designed for the cold starting and operating temp extremes. If your dealer is putting 30W in your engine, fine. If something happens before 36K miles it’s on them. If something happens after 36K it’s on you. The one nice thing about 30W is it will not break down past a 30W as the multi-weights have the potential of doing, since they are really 5W or 10W oils.
    The engineers have done their homework on this issue. The Society of American Engineers (SAE) have rated oils throughout the years. Right now their rating is SJ, up from SH, SG, SI in the recent years. Also the American Petroleum Institute (API) has also rated and developed motor oils. The multi-weight oils provide the best protection for your newer engines. Why not benefit from the knowledge and experience of all the engineers who have worked on developing these oils and use what is recommended.

    Wix filters are very good filters.

    Unless you live in the extreme north I would use 10W-30. It is the best all around weight in my opinion (for whatever that’s worth). 5W is great for sub zero starting. Other then that 10W-30 is the oil of choice. Personally, I use Havoline 10W-30. I have taken engines apart with 170,000 miles on them using Havoline and besides the discoloration of the metal from the oil there was not one bit of sludge. The oil was changed every 4000 miles on the engine, which played a major factor. But all in all Havoline comes in with a low sulfur, acid & ash content.
    Hope this helps.

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    they had a special on the PF59 2/$5 bought a case. Maybe I should put some up for auction on ebay? ;)

    I guess no one has tried Royal Purple synthetic 10-30w?

    On the emblems...50# test followed by an ample amount of GooGone and finish with Z-5, Z-6, Z-2 sounds like a Zaino commercial...
  • anonymousanonymous Member Posts: 314
    if you read my post again you'll see where i
    stated that i use Mobil 1 10/30. i was asking you
    to back up your statment about voiding warranty
    and to please give our local dealer here in
    central calif. a call to explain that they are
    screwing up their customers cars and trucks that
    are brought in for oil changes. if you also go
    back and READ (you can do that right?) where i
    stated that i change my own oil. as to your claim
    on which oil has the right amount of zinc, ash
    etc., you need to do some more homework yourself.
    took an engine apart at 170,000 after saying it
    ran fine, why? discoloration from oil, again why?

    again, NO 30w in my engine. NO 30w in my engine.
    you savvy? kapish?

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Wanna sell me 1? haha hopefully ill find one soon

  • gnippergnipper Member Posts: 120
    What are you all using to judge the distances and check your speedo? You using the mile markers on the freeway or another vehicle? I never figured the highway markers were really that accurate, but guess they may be.

    I still have mine set at 32" for 285's. According to the tach (which can be hard to tell the exact RPM at any given moment) shows the speedo to be very close. The only thing here I question a bit is my gas mileage - it is still only between 13.5 and 14.5 (5.3L Z71 xtnd cab), 2500 miles so far, so I'm still hoping that will improve as I get closer to 6000 to 8000 miles.

  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Ash and acid are not something added to motor oil, they are combustion byproducts. Havoline I'm sure is a fine oil, but if you are looking for an oil with low ash, it may not be the best choice, also as evidenced by discoloration. Here is a pretty good motor oil link I've posted before.

  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    Bluebeast cracks me up. He's the one who compared a Lexus with a Silverado ... and I'M the one who lives in a mobile home. Strange.

    Lexus still sucks. Very unimpressive, even if they do cost over $50,000. I guess I just demand more.

This discussion has been closed.