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Buying a Used 3-Series



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Kelley is based on asking prices for the most part. You'll find KBB very optimistic, especially in this market, which is buyer friendly, not seller friendly. I myself would chop 10-15% off any KBB pricing.


    it's better I think!

    (he would say that, wouldn't he?) :P
  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    The TMV seems to be a little out of commission right now. Where one would normally enter condition seems to be messed up.

    The values it gives straight up are:
    private party: $7,595
    retail: $8,944

    They are asking $7950, I was going to offer $7200 or so.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Okay I just did it for you---with the mileage deduct, TMV comes out to $6100 private party, $7460 dealer retail.
  • vlmvlm Posts: 5
    Thanks again. Nerve-racking buying a high mileage car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Yes but every used car has to speak for itself. A high mileage car with exquisite care is probably a lot better than a totally neglected one with low miles that gets a great detail job just before sale.
  • I have a 2007 Honda accord V6-EX with Navigation that I am leasing and have 1 of 3 years remaining (15K a year at 383 a month). I was interested in a used 2007 BMW 335i fully loaded with navigation. Here is a breakdown of the deal:

    5500 down payment, I lose 4000 dollars on the lease (I owe 20000 and they are going to give me 16000), the BMW is priced at 32,700 with 27K miles. At 6.25% APR I will be paying 630 a month for 63 months.

    Is this a good or a bad deal?? I am leaning towards no deal but would love to hear some opinions on this. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    No deal man IMO. You'd end up paying $40,000 for a car that's worth about $32,000 and will be out of warranty while you're still repairing it. You should pay off your lease and then go car shopping.
  • hi folks, looking to buy either used 335i with sports package (bc that's usually how they come), or spend about equal money and buy a new non sports package (no idrive etc).

    just drove an 08 with low miles, sport pkge and the works. love the ride. wondering if the summer tires will be undriveable in the NE winter. will I need to take my wife's truck everytime it snows?

    on the ohter hand, I could just order a brand new 335 coupe with just an auto tranny (that's all I'd really need, no this and that) for about 43k msrp., or just 3k more than that used one mentioned above.

    if I bought the used one, could I just change to regular all seasons tires? do they make them for this specific model and wheel package?

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    If you leave summer tires on a 335i, then yes, the car will be all but undrivable in any kind of wintery weather. The thing is, summer tires simply have very poor grip when the weather gets cold, rainy, icy or snowy.
  • thanks shipo. I guess it's might be worth it to simply order a new 335 without the sports pkge, stay with all seasons and just drive a little slower in the winter. I'm usually very cautious anyway, haven't had an unintented spin out in the winter since that one time back in college (winter of 95? 2 feet of snow while driving dad's sable wagon to school).
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    My 530i SP with the summer tires installed was barely able to make it up my driveway with only an eighth of an inch of snow on it. That said, when I bought a set of winter wheels and tires, that car was a beast in snow that came up well above the lower end if the front air dam.

    Were I in your shoes, I'd buy the 335i SP and then buy a set of winter wheels and tires for it.

    Best regards,
  • yeah, I know. the SP is nice, and you get the paddle shifters for $100. but, I'm just lazy/short of room in the garage/don't want to store a set of winters.

    you think I could order SP and tell them to have all seasons on them? I mean, I'm never going to explore the outer reaches of its adhesion (intentionally, anyway). besides, skid pad #s of .85 for all seasons vs. .90 or something for summers isn't that much difference. I just wanted the car for the engine. :)
  • I'm actively looking at new and used 335 coupes. a friend of mine mentioned that replacing the turbos on the used ones might be expensive. anyone know what range we're talking about? 2k? 5k? need to pull the engine?

    and, at approx what miles would you need to do such work?

  • nepropneprop Posts: 41
    Hi. Thinking about a 3 series convertible, but I live in New England so all year drivability is paramount. Will real snow tires, not all seasons, but true snow tires allow me to drive in the winter snow / slop / ice that New England enjoys? Alternative is to buy an Audi A4 Quattro Cabriolet, but I like the 3 series convertible's lines. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Snow tires on all four wheels would be a good idea for NE winters, which can be pretty challenging.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    My 530i with four winter tires mounted was an absolute dream to drive during our New Hampshire winters, unless you have some serious grades to climb (like 12% or steeper), you'll be good to go.

    Best regards,
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 167,797
    The 3-series convertible is no different than any other 3-series (other than more weight). It will be a champ with winter tires..

    If my wife can do it for three years, anyone can... :)

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • dash5dash5 Posts: 421
    Sorry if this is an obvious question but... do you keep the snow tires on year round or just in winter months? Do they help in rain as well? I'm considering geting the 328xi or 335xi (used) simply because I want the car to handle well in all weather conditions.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Winter tires should only be kept on during the winter as they are not built to deal with the heat of summer roads. For wet wummer roads, all-season or summer tires will perform much better.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Shhh, be vewy, vewy qwiet, I'm hunting Wabbits on wet wummer woads... :blush:
  • geffreygeffrey Posts: 2
    BMW asked for 26500
    what is a reasonable price?
  • nepropneprop Posts: 41
    Shipo, thanks for your feedback. My driving will be mostly in eastern MA, but I do go through NH, VT and up to Canada quite a lot.
  • nepropneprop Posts: 41
    Host, thanks for your feedback.
  • nepropneprop Posts: 41
    dash5, you definitely want to take your winter tires off in for the spring, summer and fall. The material properties for winter tires are different from all-seasons and if you use winter tires in the summer, you will likely experience a higher tire-related noise level, but the real rub is that you will wear out your winter tires really quickly.

    On AWD vs 2 whell drive, I have driven both and AWD with the right tires is almost unstoppable in blizzards in New England. So you will be fine. AWD with summer tires or average all-season tires will not be as good especially if you use summer tires all year round. Hope this helps.
  • geffreygeffrey Posts: 2
    BMW asked for 26500
    what is a reasonable price?
  • dash5dash5 Posts: 421
    Any advice on the "sweet spot" to buy a slightly used BMW 3 series? I am trying to determine if I should by new or used right now. Looking at Edmunds True Cost to Own and other sites, the 1st year depreciation is 12-13,000 dollars. Wow.

    On the other hand, love the new car experience and I get the full 4 year warranty. Not to mention when it's time to sell or trade in I'm the original owner, does that help resale or trade in value?

    Any thoughts on what you'd do with a 35k budget looking for an AWD BWM 328 ?
  • adagadag Posts: 5
    I am in the market for a 07 328i (20K-30K miles) and am debating whether to pick up a car with the 6yr/100K CPO from the dealer or buy the car privately (with 2 yrs of factory warranty remaining), and add the CPO from a national BMW CPO provider. I drive 8-10K miles/ year

    I tried looking for the pros and cons of the two, but could not find the thread.
  • cwsjmmcwsjmm Posts: 6
    Ok...Tons of great offers on new cars and Cash for clunkers deals, so not sure how smart it is to buy used, at this point, but it sounds like you all are zeroing in on what is a fair price these days for CPO -- any ideas on this one?

    2008 335i Convertible, 9,500 mi, Premium & Cold Weather pkgs, Comfort ACcess & Satellite radio.
    Offered $49,995

    What should I expect as my best deal?
  • Well, isn't that a 50k-53k car brand new? 49 seems high, especially since I think these cars take a big hit in depreciation the first year.

    I am being offered $34,999 for a 2007 335i Sedan with everything except cold weather. 37k miles, lease return. I figure I should be able to get down to $30,000. What do you guys think?
  • asi12asi12 Posts: 46
    In general, I have heard one can get a brand new BMW 10-15% off the MRSP. How much lower price one should offer on a used BMW 3 series?

    In my area BMW 328i, according to Edmund is worth around $30K but similarly equipped and mileages on a used BMW, dealer is asking around $24K to $27K. What is wrong here?
  • I'm interested in buying a 2007 335i CPO. Considering it's already mid-Oct, do think there will be a a drastic price difference between now and Jan 2010?
  • Hey all you 3 series owners.

    has anyone ever exceeded 500K miles... I have! and Im here to to tell you there is no one on this plannet that can tell me this isn't the Utilmateachine. I owned a 325i 4 dr manual.....I acutually never had any problem. I live in the Calif. L.A. area, my mechanic South Bay Indepednat bmw in Gardena...they are the best. when I needed an oil change, they check everything.... I never took this car to a dealer...and I purchased it used with 60K already on it and no history report back in the day. I kept oil changes and service routinely.... Never needed a trans, and did not ever have a clutch until I gave it to my sister and to honest she drove it a yr longer and traded for a 530. at that time the only thing was happening the trunk started to leak when it rained. Im sold, no matter what I will probably never own another brand... although the benz is started to look alittle more snazzy.... NAWwww! can't do it.

    Love yu beemer lovers

    Im picking up a 540il tomorrow used one owner 161K miles- clean.....MIles do not scare me. that is if it has been taken care of.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 28,151
    500k miles on 1 clutch?
    I find that VERY hard to believe.

    What year? Any pics of the odometer?

    '07 ML63, '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 52-car history and counting!

  • For real I would not kid you
    I had 1987 4 dr, let me see if I can find one in my old photos and copy and past

    I did not ever recall having a clutch replaced... Maybe when I purchase it with the existing miles the shop already put a new one... Don't know, But I just did nit have any problems. I never did any of that down shifting, I never rode my clutch... Because I was taught not to. once I gave it to my sister she had to replace it.

    That is what baffles me so much when hear other people always having a clutch problem. The learned now to drive astick on a 911 or 914 porsche....those gears are so close together that you could really strip them fast.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    South Bay Independent built the motor in my M3. They have a very good reputation in the E30 circles.
  • Yes they also are good with the 525 series. I have had 2 of them a salvaged and a clean title, both of which SBW Indp took great care of.

    now I have jusT purchased a 95 318i conv

    It has been lowered and it has a little shaking to it in the inital yo all think it is the upper and lower control arms or front and rear (which ever this car has)

    or just the bushing.

    And the plastic window...can't see a thing...Is there something to clear this so I can see.

    Help Help Help.
  • Hi,
    I purchased a certified 2007 328i in the North Bay area on 11/30/09.
    It had 18400 miles, with auto and metallic paint being the options.
    It was listed for $25,900 and I got it for $25,000.
    I obtained 0.9% financing thru BMW financing.
    Of interested, BMW is paying the first two months car payments. I had to tweak my payment schedule to maximize my monthly payments to get "more money" out of BMW. The max monthly payment was $863; thus BMW picked up an extra (approx) $1700.
    My final price was about $23,300. I wanted to finish payments in 24 months, but BMW financing forced me to get a 36 month loan term.

    If someone is planning to buy one, the max BMW will pay is $1000 per month, so you could save $2000 if you buy a more expensive car.

    Also, rightly or not, I purchased an extended free maintenance schedule to cover me for the full 6 yrs. The finance guy initially offered it at $3095, but apparently you can negotiate this by 'bidding' on the computer. The lowest offer was $2000, and I took it. Considering the brakes and minor work on my Acura cost $800, at 30,000 miles, I may recoup my investment.
    Also, I test drove a 335i with the sport package, and while the engine was great, the ride is a bit punishing on anything but perfect roads. I just love the way my standard 328 rides and the engine is more than enough for me.
    Hope this helps someone save some money.
  • Any idea how long the program is going for. The lease on my current vehicle is not up till April. So looking to get a car in the March/April timeframe.
  • I don't know how long the promotion will last.
  • lexhoulexhou Posts: 81
    not understanding the whole part of negotiating 1700 less for vehicle. and the max payment part. currently looking to purchase 2007-2008 bmw-328i so very intrested to know more. i like you would want least mos available to finance.
  • Sorry if I was not clear re the $1700:-
    I'll try again:-
    BMW will pay the first two months of payment. Thus, if your monthly payment is, lets say, $200, then BMW will pay $200 X 2 = $400.
    If your monthly payment is $850, then BMW will pay 850 X 2 = 1700. This is essentially money that you have saved.

    The maximum BMW will pay is $1000 per month (according to the finance guy), ie you get could get a total saving of $2000 off if manage to make your monthly payment a thousand dollars.

    Thus, try to maximize your monthly payments. To do this, I tried to get the loan term over 24 months, but BMW finance would only go with 36 months for me. I actually had to place 'zero down' to maximize the monthly payment. I felt very strange to drive the car out and not pay anything at that time.

    I hope this helps.
  • lexhoulexhou Posts: 81 it,,thks for follow up. Basically you received aprox 10 % discz --2600 from list of car.....they can market it how they want. Yes this helps quite a bit....stopped by today on certified bmw lot and have couple interested in.

    2008-- 17k miles.....window @ 29,800...328 i
    2007 - 26k mi [email protected] 28,000...328 i
    both cars looked very good from outside appearance, would have to pull carfax report etc, but if any can tell me if this is in line with pricing of this yr model with mileage would be helpful. Have not bought used in long time. Thks a gain for clarification very interested in prog.
  • Hey guys,Im looking forward to buy my first BMW but only Pre-owned.. Im quite young and I was wondering If i'l get in deep trouble maintaining this car by myself..I saw this 2006 325i with 62k miles on it for $16000 is this a good buy? or do i expect a ton of problems with the car? the dealer also offered me a warranty for it because it doesnt have anymore.. so is this warranty eligible? even if the dealer is not a certified BMW dealer? Thanks, Hoping for Feeds
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    I think that unless you are professionally trained, your ability to do maintenance will be limited to pretty simple items. Most modern cars are no longer built to accommodate do-it-yourselfers unless you are fairly well-motivated to "gear up" with a scanner, tools and a lift or jacks, and to buy the technical data you will need.

    As for extended warranties, these are actually insurance policies, wherein the underwriter is betting your car won't break, and you are betting that it will. The size of the bet depends on what the underwriter charges---they stet the stakes for the betting game--although you can certainly negotiate ANY extended warranty price.

    I certainly wouldn't buy any extended warranty that I didn't read cover to cover, with a magnifying glass, including all "exclusions" so that you fully understand what IS covered and what is NOT. Many extended warranties offer different levels of coverage.

    As for pricing, you might try Edmunds TRUE MARKET VALUE feature, which will help you negotiate a price. Be sure to do the custom appraisal, where you can plug in miles, condition, options, etc.

    I'm sure some of the owners here can give you more tips and advice!

  • the prices are some what higher than the one i'v checked at the dealer..mostly the used 2006 325i costs 17k-20k but the one iv checked cost a lot less and even at a lower mileage.. the dealer said its in excellent condition. so what does this tell me? maybe the car have defects right? when i saw it has a little bit of scratches but thats fine with me aslong as the car runs smooth and theres no problem with the engine and mechanical stuff..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    If you have an independent BMW repair shop in your area that has a good reputation, I'd certainly take it there for a complete look-over. It's worth the $100-150 to do that.
  • aright tnx... oh btw when i asked the dealer about the warranty he said that if something breaks we would just bring it to the BMW dealer to get it fix if we have the warranty.. so thats the same as what you said about insurance policies?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    words spoken at a dealership are like wisps of clouds in the air.

    You have to READ the warranty policy and see a) what it covers b) what it excludes and c) who is backing it d) where you are allowed to bring it e) is it "re-imbursement only" (you pay the repair, they pay you), etc etc.

    If it's not written down, then you don't have it.

    Pay your dues reading, or pay your dues later. :P
  • great advice. thanks for the help! im going to read it thoroughly indeed. :) We cant always trust dealers nowadays...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Well there are trustworthy dealers but still, if it's not written down, things get forgotten.
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