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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • flylwflylw Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Jeep started missing sometimes at Idle, doesn't do it all the time while at Idle. I thought I might have bought some gas with some water in it. I change the inline gas filter back by the tank and put a additive in the gas tank to help take the water out. It still has the same problem missing at Idle. The check engine light does not come on. I had it checked to make sure there were no codes and it didn't show any. You can let it idle and it will not have a miss for few seconds and then it might miss once or twice and then smooth back out. The engine is a straight six cylinder, 4.0. Has anyone had this problem? Or, tell me what to do. All help appreciated.
  • bampotbampot Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 JGC, auto, 4WD,4.0L, it has 246000 miles and we have replaced the fuel pump 4 times in 12 yrs, on the last 2 occasions we only replaced the pump not the entire module thingy. anyway having said that I think my problem could be different this time. I had parked the Jeep overnight and the next day it would turn over but not fire I can hear the pump come on for 1-2 sec when the ignition is turned on, also I know that the fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I am somewhat confused ( not to hard) as I also disconnected the fuel line at the inline filter (mounted just forward of the fuel tank) and when I turned on the ignition the pump only ran for the 1-2 seconds despite the fact it could not build pressure in the system, is this ok or is the pump faulty once again. I would like to know if I am getting a spark at the plugs but am not to shure how to do this on my own without meters etc. Sorry to sound like such an fool as I`m a 62 yr old male, anyway thanks in advance, Michael in Northern AZ.
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 JGC 4.7L, when coming to a stop at a red light or anytime I am just idling in drive, the oil pressure drops to 0 and the check gauges light dings on. Once I start gaining RPM's the oil pressure shoots back up to where it should be, and the check gauges light goes out. I have recently had the oil changed and it is still doing the same thing. Anyone who has any suggestions on what is going on or how to stop this from happening, would be greatly appreciated.
  • 95zjtom95zjtom Posts: 8
    I agree with the throttle position sensor - very easy to replace on the 5.2 engine. You can get one from Autozone for around $40. The TPS mounts on the driver's side of the MFI body with torx head screws and the easy to unplug connector and you can have it swapped in less than 15 minutes. While at it, get the air idle control sensor. This one mounts on the rear of the MFI body with torx head screws and the easy to unplug connector and you can have it swapped in less than 15 minutes. I just replaced this one on my 95 GCLtd this morning and what a difference it made! I replaced the TPS a week or so ago. A garage replaced the crankshaft speed sensor three weeks ago as this Jeep was disabled on the side of the highway and would not start. Turned over and tried to start but would not. I had no knowledge of the crankshaft speed sensor but they figured it out and made the repair that Jeep dealer could not the week earlier(same problem).

    This GCLtd, with 5.2 V8 has 294, 000 miles on it and is ready for many more years of driving.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    get hold a macanical gauge and hook that up and make sure that you are in fact that oil pressure drops to zero
    could gust be sending unit
  • I just bought a 1996 JGC Laredo 4.0 AT 2WD at a garage sale, Real cheap! I removed the engine and had it rebuilt due to some head damage and piston damage. The machine shop recovered the "missing bolt" the previous owner mentioned when I bought this nightmare. Anyway, after I re-installed the new engine, it started and ran like a champ. However, it won't idle properly. It will rev between 1200 and 600 about six or seven times then die. I used the manual to check all the components: TPS, CKP, MAP, air idle control valve, replaced the camshaft position sensor. I even replaced the PCM with a reman. one, yet it does the same exact thing. All of a sudden my real cheap JEEP is a total burn!! Please someone help!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    get a vacuem gage and hook that up the start sure sounds as if you have vacuem leak
  • Any more ideas on this intermittent stalling on my 4 liter 1997 Cherokee automatic please ????
  • tuercastuercas Posts: 1
    hey methalji1 did you fix your problem? I have a same problem with a cherokee and i did everything, heads, cam and crank sensor, sparkplugs and coils
    i really appreciate your answer
  • I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 cyl 4WD. It has 147,000 mile. Radiator was replaced at approx. 110,000 miles. No other replacements have been made to the cooling system.

    It has always run with the temp gage just at the "Half way" mark on the temp gage. Lately when I am stopped at a traffic light, or just idling, the temp gage slowly creeps up. It has gotten close to the red mark on the gage, but never hit it. When I start driving again and the air is flowing thru the radiator, it cools back down.

    Any suggestions to keep it from heating when Idling???
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    fan clutch is bad change that should take care of prob
  • Hello Snake,
    I have a 99 with 125,000 miles with the same problem and havn't been able to solve. Have you had any luck resolving this problem?
  • I have a 99 Grand with the 4.0 and 125k, I go to start it and it would not turn over. I recently replaced the battery. Everything turns on electricly and I can hear the engine cranking but it will just not turn over and run. However, if I push on the gas pedal as if I'm reving the engine or as if it wasn't fuel injected I can get it to start. I must hold the idle speed, usually around 1000 rpm, for maybe 30 secs. or so to make sure it'll stay started. If I don't physiclly hold the gas to keep it running it just stalls out. Once it's running for the first few minutes the idle is very low, around 400 rpm. In addition to the problem this happens totally random and without warning. Have had it happen as many as 3 times within a week and have gone as long as 1+ months between it. Once it gets running it's perfectly fine with no difference in performance or ride. Someone suggested the fuel pump. Anybody with any suggestions?
  • Help! I have only had my jeep since May. I started with a overheating problem, which we easily fixed with the fan relay switch.

    But, within a couple weeks it appeared to be "possessed". Started cutting out while driving, so quickly it was hard to know I stalled. It generally occurred while idling or at times of slowing down(pulling into parking lot). It would immediately start right up without hesitation.

    Now it is becoming more frequent( multiple times in short trips & 95% of all trips to store!) & takes longer to start, today was over 10mins after it stalled. Also, it now will cut out while driving at any speed, don't have to be slowing down or idling. In addition, to the fact that it will also cut out while driving, but while I am pulling over it kicks back in & I'm driving again!!! ??? Also, today it stalled as I went over RRtracks & seemed to happen as we hit the bump???

    Shortly after noticing the initial stalling(which was so weird and infrequent I wasn't sure it wasn't something I did accidently without realizing) It was parked in my driveway &cold, when I noticed it sounded like it was running....the fan turned itself on. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it, even then when I reconnected the battery it was still on.

    Last thing, don't know if it is related, but the dealer did mention when we changed the fan relay switch to make sure to use rivets. My boyfriend, who was a mechanic for 15years had already done the job &we weren't worried that it was in with screws. The dealer had suggested though, it could cause electrical shorts? Is it as simple as putting another new switch in, but with rivets? Or is it something completely unrelated?
    I apologize if this posted twice???? couldn't find the first one...I dont think I clicked the button.
  • Just a 99 with about 126,000 miles had same problem & a Fan relay switch solved it. The dealer said it was a common problem with the jeeps. It was a bit difficult to get to.....behind one of the headlights! Good luck:)
  • I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 5.2 with 115K miles. Most recently, the car started to "buck" and then stall after running for ~30 minutes. Sometimes she will start right up and other times I'll have to wait 5-10 minutes before she'll start again. She'll run "clean" for a few days before the problem re-occurs. I had the timing done, belts, plugs, air filter and wires changed along with the fuel injectors cleaned by my local Jeep dealership. Use 87 octane (various dealers) and never let gas fall below 1/4 tank level. Could it be the fuel filter/pump?? I'll never know when this problem will occur??
  • This sounds fairly familiar and I'm looking for some help myself. My '96 will run for 5 - 10 minutes and then die. Won't restart (turns over fine, never fires up). I've been working this problem for two weeks now. Initially I didn't realize that it was a heat related problem, symptoms pointed me towards fuel delivery problem, replaced fuel pump and in line filter. After realizing it was heat related, found cracks in the coil. Replaced that. No good. Did some more research and decided the crank position sensor was a likely suspect. It did fail an ohm check per the manual. I replaced that (would like to have a discussion with the engineer that located it at the top of the bell housing). Didn't fix my problem. Now I am chasing wiring. I did notice that my aux fan does not turn on, not sure if it's related, but need to dot that i. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • I have a 94 grand cherokee laredo with the 4.0 litre. when it gets to normal operating temp. then you idle it will stall. it has no spark so i replaced the coil and it ran fine for a month but now does the same thing.
    any ideas?
  • my problem ended up being the three spliced wiring connections inside the wiring harness going into the ecm(computer) located under the hood on the passenger side firewall. found this out by warming up jeep and wiggling harness. i just wirenutted connections. good luck, theres also a small gauge ground wire coming off the battery terminal that is the ground to ecm that becomes faulty.
  • i got a code in the book it says throttle position sensor voltage high or low. so does that mean the TPS is bad? or does something else cause the voltage to be too high or too low? and what controls the downshifting when passing? is it vacuum or electronic or both? could the tps problem cause that?
  • Thanks for the info. I'm a bit worried about the wiring in this vehicle. I have other electrical issues. The driver side door lock button locks the door, but wont unlock it. This car has the keyless entry sensor above the rear view mirror, but I don't have the key fob. I hope I don't have any issues with the anti-theft system that is causing the ASD relay to shut off. May have to dig into it. I will mess around with the harnesses as you suggested.
  • My problem was similar and I replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors and have not experienced a problem so far. The parts are fairly inexpensive.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that what tells the trans to shift should just be able to change tps should fix probb
  • i am a recent jeep newbie, just bought a 1994 jeep grand cheroke laredo 4x4 with the 4.0 liter straight 6. supposidly it had a bad fuel pump, and it did. i replaced the fuel pump, along with the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay. now i have read on other forums that these vehicles do not have an inertia switch, and with a vast automotive knowledge know that it is not acting like an inertia switch is tripped(the fuel pump runs) but are there any other safteys on this vehicle? also i know it needs plugs, a cap and rotor, but what gets me is that it will run on ether(starting fluid) and not on pump gas,i noticed that the plugs, wires cap and rotor were bad by chance, i'm a second shift heavy duty mechanic and only get time to work on it after dark, and noticed the plugs and wires arcing in the plug housing on the head, track marks and corrosion in the cap and on the rotor, and soot on the plugs at the base of the boot, along with the electrodes on all the plugs worn down to the base, but why would it run on ether and not pump gas? im out of ideas if the plugs cap and rotor dont do the trick pleas help...... i need all the help i can get, i dont know [non-permissible content removed] about mopar, i'm a chevy boy and have never ran into this before. :mad:
  • i also thought i should mention that this vehicle hit a deer. could there be something im overlooking, i also wanted to mention that the fuel rail only has decent pressure on the initial key turn, after that first time after sitting overnight, it seems to deminish, but again i am wondering why ether and not pump gas
  • papenpapen Posts: 11
    All repairs done on my 1996 Jeep. Then I got smart. The wallet handing out to much cash. Had the computer rebuilt (sent out) they found loads of errors cost me 395.00 haven't had a problem since. Now remember taking it to Jeep they found "NO" errors on computer. If you are tired of sitting on the side of the road consider getting computer rebuilt. The location of the computer was to close to wet items which over a period of time could ruin.
  • I have a 2002 Lerado, 3.0 w/104k miles on it.

    A month or so ago as I was driving the dash lighta flickered and then stayed on but the car was still running fine. When I stopped, I turned off the car and when I tried to start it, nothing happen, no clicking, no nothing. After trying a few more times it started and off I went. All was fine after that untill the other day I backed my car up to my trailer, turn it off, got out and hocked everything up. Then got back in and turned the key, it started for a spilt second and died, now it simple turns over and doesn't start.

    I removed the battery cables, cleaned them both and put back on (even though it turned over strong, thought I'd give a reset to the PCM modules). Turned the key and it still turns over but doesn't start, not even attemps to start. I checked the EFI pressure and it was fine, each time I releave the pressure it build back up when trying to start it again.

    Anyone have any ideas?

  • I've got a 2000 JGC that wants to stall out while drive down the road. It usually when I am coming out of a stop light or stop sign. It just sort of sputters when I hit the gas and acts like it's going to quit. It even begins to make a knocking sound. Sometimes it will suddenly just take off and things will be fine, other times I have to shut it off.

    What's really odd is that if I shut it off and turn it right back on, I can drive off with no problems. Seems to happen mostly first thing in the morning or after sitting for a couple of hours.

  • Hi all,

    I was hoping someone might help-- My Cherokee (101k miles) has recently started bucking/hesitating at 2000 RPMs, usually on up hill climbs. OBD2 says multiple misfire....I replaced the plugs, same problem.

    It tends to last a bit, than stop, usually accompanied by a blinking check engine light, which I assume is the misfire, then it runs fine. It rarely happens when I start it cold and drive to work (1+ hour)

    It seems to do it more after short stops/restarts (like gas station, quick store stop), but it's getting worse.

    Any thoughts? I'm thinking TPS?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that is the first thin to try also crank pos senser (rear of ingine driver side PIA to get to
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