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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • I own a 96 jeep grand cherokee with 118000 miles on it.It recently started acting up,hesitating ,bucking,then it stalled.The mechanic thought it was bad gas,he put fuel system cleaner in it.After a weak it started again, i put high octane gas with a dry gas, drove it down the road,it was bucking frantically,losing power,pulled it off on a side street,put it in neutral,reved it up,cause it sounded like it was ready to stall.waited a bit, put it in park, it rev up too 1200rpms,then dropped to around 600rpms.I've read other people problems like mine.I'm going to try to replace the Crankshaft sensor,but i don't have a clue where it is located,I looked but could not see it.Does anyone have a pic,so i could see where it is?Does my jeep have a camsaft sensor too?I called a local jeep dealer they said it wasn't listed in there computer.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    what engine you have
  • 2004 Jeep Grand Cheorkee SE.
    When I try to start the vehicle, absolutely nothing happens. The engine does not even begin to turn over. However, if I sit and try to start the vehicle multiple times(minimum 20 times), it eventually starts in the manner in which it should.
    The weird symptom that may give some indication as to what the problem is what the gauges are doing prior to attempting to start the vehicle. The gauges will spike up to about 25% (ie, 30-40 mph on the speedomoter) and then immediately go back down. All gauges do this and are in sepuence.
    The only other note is that while the vehicle is in this "no start" mode, that all electrical functions do not work. Radio, door locks, windows, etc all do not function.
    The vehicle has done this to me 3 times, but on all occasions has eventually started up with persistance. However, I would like to fix this asap.
    Thanks in advance.
  • teamo1teamo1 Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 05 jeep grand cherokee. i had the ignition replaced. worked fine . but down the road i had another problem , lost all the lights on my display . the only thing i had was the park and rev nut light on couldent tell how fast i was going nothing , plus my rear brake lights went out at the same time , brought it in a couple of times kept re sending some codes in the computer . worked for a few day . the problem was after i got tired of thier [non-permissible content removed] was , the p.s.a board witch is a computer board was bad ,was still under warentee thank god i head they can cost 600 to 700 a board . so be carefull have them check it , no problems sence then , good luck
  • i have the 4.0 straight6
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    at the rear of engine on the pass side way in the back held in with one small bolts hard to get at should come with instructions on how to install has small paper spacer on tip that goes in by flywheel (dont remove as sets the space betyeen flywheel and sensor will come off when you first start up)
    good luck
  • thank you,.one more question,does this have a camshaft position sensor?If so where is it,and is it hard to replace,i was told i should replace both.Where is the computer located?
  • I have a 94 grand cherokee with the same problem. I was driving last night and 2 mins later it stalled and now it wont start back up... I am out of ideas and my mechanic thinks its the computer. I was just wondering if your problems have stopped after you replaced the computer? I live in PA and my problems occur when its wet or hot out. If you could reply I'd greatly appreciate it... Thanks
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    yes inside distrubater
  • Having to hold the gas sounds like possibly a bad TPS "throttle position sensor.." Or IAC valve "Idle air control." Both of them are on the throttle body. I would go to your local Pep Boys or Auto Zone and get a 29 dollar Haynes manual for your GC and run some tests on this area. If they check out it could also be a Crank sensor or Cam Pickup Sensor.. or worse case scenario ... a bad PCM. But strange its not popping the check engine light.
  • I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with about 160k on it.. runs ok on everyday around town jaunts.. but get it out on the freeway and try to run around 70 and it feels like it stumbles and has a funny feeling miss. Also has a problem under a heavy acceleration like climbing a hill.. it shudders and loses power until you let off the gas and gradually it will recover its rpm and run ok. This thing has been a bee blanket since we bought it at 116K.

    With all the troubles its had I have changed every sensor in this thing.. plus the coil.. cap... rotor.. wires..the PCM...breakers,,hoses..lines.. etc. We have checked the fuel flow coming from the pump and it seems to be a good stream. But I havent pressure tested it. But I am wondering if the fuel pump is starting to get old and breaking down under a load and causing this problem.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    It Pi$$es me when it runs like crap. but.. when it runs ok.. its a sweet little ride.
    "Jerk Every Electrical Part.. Gobbles Cash. " :)
  • I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche, so here's the issue. Before I break it down, this problem only happens when it's cold outside. I'm AZ so anything under low 50's is cold. Anyway, she starts fine and idles normal. Once the engine temp goes up, the idle goes up too. So once it's at normal temp the idle is around 2k and stays there. If I drive it for a while it might drop down and stay around 1500 but wont go any lower than that. When it starts warming up outside the problem goes away and it idles fine all the time. I change the IACV (idle air control valve) but didn't change a thing. Any suggestions?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Could also be a shortage of air. Make sure your air cleaner and intake system is clear.
  • I have a 99 Grand with the 4.0 and 135k, beginning back in the summer I would go to start it and it would not turn over. Everything turns on electricly and I can hear the engine cranking but it will just not turn over and run. However, if I push on the gas pedal as if I'm reving the engine or as if it wasn't fuel injected I can get it to start. I must hold the idle speed, usually around 1000 rpm, for maybe 30 secs. or so to make sure it'll stay started. If I don't do physiclly hold the gas to keep it running it just stalls out. Once it's running for the first few minutes the idle is very low, around 400 rpm. I've ran the codes before trying to get it to stay started and nothing is being tripped, just says done in the readout. I have new plugs, have ran fuel line cleaner through the entire system, and have checked the battery. Planning on changing the fuel filter next. In addition to the problem this happens totally random and without warning. Have had it happen as many as 3 times within a week and have gone as long as 2+ months between it. Once it gets running it's perfectly fine with no difference in performance or ride. Anybody with any suggestions?
  • 93 grand cherokee will not idel , has smooth exceleration until you are on the freeway then it starts to buck and a little back fire it has MSD icnition K&n air filter after market intake manafold and Doug Thorly headers, i have put a new battery, alt. coil cleaned the carbon out of TBI, no vac. leaks and yet i can put a rag in the TBI and it will still run? please help.
  • papenpapen Posts: 11
    The fuel pump fixed mine ,BUT, you must get a good fitting fuel pump. One ordered off of ebay (junk). Finally purchased 302.00 one came with seal and longer dip. My car still shuts down, BUT, restarts immediately. The fuel pump is expensive ,but, very important buying the right one.
  • I have an 04 Cherokee with the 4.0L, check engine light came on so i checked the code and it came up P0123, throttle position sensor. Anyone know if this is an easy fix for semi competent person, and anyone recommend a good book or web site to go to for pics of the swap out. Thanks
  • The TPS is an pretty easy change.. 2 screws holding it on and its mounted on the throttle body. Just change it out and start the engine and let it idle and the pcm will set it . If you need specs the haynes manuals are pretty good and not overly expensive. About 29 dollars at your local discount auto or pepboys.
  • Yep.. definatly pays to buy a good pump. This is what turned out to be wrong my 96 too.. the wife went on a trip to Ft Lauderdale to her friends 3 days ago and it died on her down there...she took it to a mechanic there and found the pickup screen was about 3/4 plugged up and had overheated the pump a few times. It cost over 500 bucks for the fuel pump and labor.Ouch. But at least its working and I know my wife and kid will make it back to Tampa safe.
    Thats worth every penny and then some !!
  • After cranking up, the engine runs smoothly for a couple of seconds at around 700 RPMs, afterwards the RPM drops to around 250/300 and runs rough. The car runs even rougher when in gear as well but only at idle speed. When driving at any speed the engine runs very smoothly so the problem is at idle. The engine is rough all the time at idle speed, even when the car is hot!

    Any Ideas???
  • Hi, I have a 2.7 crd diesel auto (UK) and have a problem when I go to start I get a whirring noise, and it will not start (like the starter is not engaging) if I then try and restart it will start with no problem. This has been happening for a few months but recently has got worse.

    Now I am not sure what I am looking at could it be the starter or :confuse: to me it sounds like the starter is engaging but there is nothing for it turn can the teeth be wearing on the starter or what its engaging with. Is it going to be a big job

    Its a 2003 model with only 60,000 miles :cry:
  • Mine only has 1 O2 sensor. Well after all of this we went ahead and changed the IAC. Ran fine for a week and then did the samething at startup. It would start but would not idle. So you hold the gas about 1000 rpm and then it is fine. Since the check engine light never went off after changing the EGR and O2 sensor, we finally put it back on the computer and it read Code 32 which is a faulty EGR. So the mechanic changed it under warrenty and guess what, it came on again. I will try a new battery. When you replaced yours was it difficult to start? Any other suggestions. After they changed the IAC, on the computer, I guess it is supposed to read about 18 - 20 at an idle and mine only reads 0 - 1. They said it could be a number of things, but it will be difficult to find because it is an intermittent problem.
    All help is appreciated.
  • Appreciate all the advice on potential causes for the starting problem. Ran fuel line cleaner through the system along with a complete cleaning of the throttle body this weekend. Will also be replacing the fuel filter shortly along with the valve cover gasket and adding a BDS 2" lift, which is unrelated to the problem. Really won't know if the problem has been fixed unless it doesn't start again at which point I'll have my answer. As far as the fuel pump goes with previous experience and from additional advice, the problem should be more consistant with usually the pump going out after a few weeks. But it will def. be a thought if this keeps up. So thanks again to those who offered advice.
  • I would probably guess it to be the starter bendix going bad. They will do the hollow sounding whirr when they are cold in the beginning.. then gradually get worse until it does it nearly every start. Might want to take your starter in to be checked. Only other things that will cause this is bad ground or starter cable.. or worse case a flywheel beginning to get bad teeth on the ring gear . But at the mileage I would suspect the bendix.
  • Deanna -
    The symptoms you are experiencing sound very much like the ones on my JGC. The mechanic found the weak battery when trying to diagnose the problem. The battery died as he was trying to start it. He suggested replacing the battery (which I did) but his diagnosis was a vacuum leak in the intake manifold. As I didn't have the money to have the intake manifold pulled and the gaskets replaced at the time, we agreed that I would drive it until I could afford the work. But you know, I haven't had a problem since the battery was replaced. Strange, but when you realize that you are driving a computer on wheels, it sort of makes sense.

  • i had left the Jeep for one month in a parking with alot humidity and when i went to take it i realised that there was a problem.
    when i turned the key on position the volt instrument cluster show at 9volts and the check gauges lamp is on,the driver seat
    stop to go front and back the only thing that work on the driver seat is the pump on the back, (when i tern the key to the stop
    possition after for 10 minute 0r 15 the driver seat work again.),
    the passenger seat work ok, but both dosent have heat,when i press the heat buttons the light is on the buttons but the heater
    of both seats do not work.
    when i turn the key to the start possition the Jeep start but when i press the gas the mashine not work normal make convulsion(spasm)
    (broum broum).I think maybe the problem was the battary is not full and i went slow slow for a small drive,after for one killometer
    the mashine stop to work with out to press the gas.After i check with voltmetter the battery,i realised that was overcharging from
    the generator (was 15volt and when i press the gas the volt make up 16-17v).i thing that the problem was the generator,then
    i chaing the generator and the battery but the same problem.i check all the fuses is ok! i check also the connecions to the power
    train control module and all the others.
    With your experience can you please tell me if i can check somthing else
  • I have a 98 JGC Laredo 4wd 4.0L that when i go down the highwat sometimes jerks stutters like the trans is slipping. I took it to a trans tech who looked it over and told me it was fine. He changed the fluid filter etc. It still does it. Another guy told me it could be my feul filter. My question is has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it?
  • mammamamma Posts: 5
    I had the same thing. MY O2 sensor was installed about 3-4 years ago. The new mechanic (diff shop) says that it was a "universal" O2 sensor which is really not so universal. It was shorting out and fried my computer ($500). Maybe you could check your sensors. My car started out sputtering for about 1 1/2 years in high elevations before it just took to stalling when it felt like it. IT is in the shop now, hopefully the new computer and O2 sensor will fix everything. Good luck :cry:
  • Hi, all, my Jeep when idling sounds like a tractor. It vibrates, spits and sputters, but doesn't stall, check engine light is on but not blinking . I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of where to start? I put dry gas, and premium gas in it thinking it was a gas problem but the check engine light is still on, and it is still running bad.
  • First thing you need to do is get your Jeep scanned for trouble codes. Thats why your check engine light is on. Its trying to tell you its got code"s" stored in the computer from whatever is malfunctioning. Get it to your local mechanic and have them put it on their scanner. Or you can buy your own hand held scanner and code manual for around $75 to 100.00 at most of the popular Auto Parts outlets and troubleshoot it yourself. But my guess is it sounds like an " IAC" Valve or EGR valve giving you fits and needing attention.
    Hope this helps.
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