Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
edited March 2014 in Honda
This topic is for 2007 Honda Accord owners and/or potential buyers to discuss issues related to maintenance and repair.


  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Should this not be lumped in with the 2003-2006 models, since they are basically the same? A lot of issues that would plague, say, a 2005 would be related to 2007 models too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yes we realize it's not a new generation, but we think, and so do most members, that it's a good idea not to let any one topic grow too large. The 2007 people don't really want to wade through problems with 2003 cars.

    So let's give it a shot and see how it goes for now, and thanks for your comments--we thought about that, too.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Ok, just curious. :-)
  • grantmonroegrantmonroe Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced a problem with there steering locking up in the middle of a turn? I'd noticed my steering seize a few times in the parking lot, but today it happened when I was turning in the middle of a busy intersection. Very scary. I'd love to hear if others have experienced similar problems.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I have a 2006 (mechanically the same as a 2007) and have never had this problem after over 14,000 miles. I'd go to the dealer promptly, or at least call them and schedule an appointment.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    There may be a powersteering oil pressure sensor which supplies a signal to the engine control computer when steering at slow vehicle speed to increase the engine RPM slightly to compensate for powersteering pump drag on the engine at low speeds. (Such was the case with my '96 Accord and my '03 Sonata has the same setup.) It sounds to me as though that powersteering oil pressure sensor has become disconnected or has failed. If that's the case (and it will take a trip to the dealership to precisely diagnose your car's actual problem), reconnecting the lead or replacing that sensor should remedy the problem. If I'm correct, you're not really losing steering control, but the momentary loss of power assist due to too low an engine speed will make it seem so.
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    I've got a '07 SE V6 and I have to admit I've been vroom-vrooming it all the place since I got it (I will calm down soon :cry: ). It only has about 300 miles on it so far, and I've had it up to 95 mph briefly plus several bouts of quick acceleration on the highway. I don't think I've done any harm so far, but what are the pointers you're supposed to follow, and for how many miles until "break-in"?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Basically, you are supposed to avoid the "vroom vrooming" until after 600 miles. The high-speed probably isn't a problem just cruising, since in fifth gear 90 MPH is only around 3,000 RPM. I don't think you should be taking it above 4,000 though. Check your owner's manual, it clearly states to "Avoid 'Jack-Rabbit' Starts" for the first 600 miles. If you can, reign in your right foot until after a few hundred more miles (I took things further and went a full 1,000 miles before really winding up my engine).
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastMember Posts: 858
    ........If you can, reign in your right foot until after a few hundred more miles

    ...possibly incurring the wrath of a pc/permissive mod................(some of us really get off on clearspeak).....the expression - - grad - - be "rein in" (like a hoss)..

    seasons best, ez....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Forgive me - studying for these finals are about to fry my brain apparently. I'll likely be more coherent when they are through, at the end of the week.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastMember Posts: 858
    ....agree. Been there., ez.. BS/San Jose State (bronze age)
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    I haven't been able to find the NUMBER of miles Honda recommends between oil changes in the manual. The minder system tells you 100%, 50%, 40%, etc.--but what is the actual number of miles at 100%? (I have an '07 V6 AT.)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    For V6, it used to be 3,750 (lots of stop and go, extreme temps) or 7,500 mi (lots of highway, temperate climate).

    Go by the minder, it can tell you better. There's a reason they no longer suggest going by mileage. The minder counts engine revolutions and knows pretty accurately when you should get an oil change.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "I've got a '07 SE V6 and I have to admit I've been vroom-vrooming it all the place since I got it..." ((

    Contratulations, Steve, Honda builds great motors, so, whatever premature bearing, cylinder bore, piston ring, camshaft, and crankshaft wear resulted from "run-it-like-ya'-stole-it" early use will most likely only be an expense burden for the next owner. One thing for certain - however you drive over the next 300 miles will have no effect on ultimate engine life. Most people, if they bother thinking about the subject at all, tend to fall into the mental trap of looking at run-in cautionaries as unpleasant interference to enjoying their new car. I look at run-in as my personal opportunity to finalize the full potential the automaker's engineers had in mind.
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    First, let me say that I probably exaggerated somewhat: I've run the engine to >4000rpm a total of maybe ten times, and never got near the red line, and probably never much over 5000rpm. And no fast starts from a dead stop. The nice part is I FEEL like I'm vroom-vrooming all around! :)

    Second, I'd like to make sure I understand what you said: Even though my vroom-vrooming may not affect engine longevity, it could have an effect on realizing the full power and smoothness potential of the drivetrain later on. Is that right?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    it could have an effect on realizing the full power and smoothness potential of the drivetrain later on. Is that right?

    Based on other reports, yes. It also affects your fuel economy potential.

    I can't say personally, since my grandmother broke in my old car (I got it at about 115,000 miles) and I carefully broke in my 2006 EX I-4 for the first 1,000 miles or so (under 3,500 RPM unless I had to rev to accelerate out of necessity.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Revving past 4K wasn't in your best interest, but as long as you didn't redline the motor yet, then at worst, little if any longterm harm done. Here on out during the remainder of Honda's nominal 600 mile run-in, vary your speeds to aid final piston ring seating. One way is to cruise on a rarely used stretch that allows vehicle speeds up to ~60 mph - start from about 30 mph and moderately accelerate (without forcing a downshift) on up to 60 mph, then remove your foot from the accelerator to let the car coast back down to 30 mph in gear, then repeat. Do that 12 or 15 times, and your rings have undergone sufficient forced pressure/vacuum loadings that they're pretty well squared to their bores*. An alternate and probably more entertaining method is find hilly terrain that will accomodate 45-50 mph speeds without forcing downshifting, set the cruise control somewhere in that speed range, and enjoy the ride. While the car won't be appreciably changing speed, the uphill sections will load the rings with pressure as fuel is burned while climbing and the downhill sections will vacuum load the rings while coasting on the descent. Ten minutes of that is long-life health tonic for a new motor. Sometime after 2K total miles, you have one final, important task to undertake - redline the motor with an all-out, grand acceleration run. Many people are unaware that connecting rods will stretch, if only immeasurably, when stressed with a run-up to redline. There's a danger that as the cylinders wear, and form a ledge near their top (inevitable, by the way) that if an early run up to redline never ocurred and the owner or next owner finds himself in a predicament in a high mileage car that requires all out engine effort, the top compression rings may slam into the ledge and break when that effort results in stretching the rods. When it's safe to do so after run-in, but before any measurable bore ledge has formed, stretch the rods - it's a one shot exercise and will have no effect other than preventing the trouble described above from ever happening in the future unless the engine is ever rebuilt.

    *New piston rings' peripheral surface, the one that contacts the cylinder bore, are lapped to a slight convexity (outward bulge). "Seating" the rings entails controlled wear to intentionally grind the rings with the bore, itself, to a flat surface square with the cylinder bores and smooth out the bores in the process. Cylinder bores are intentionally left "roughened" rather than finely milled just for this reason. The last finishing step in machining cylinder bores is to lower a rotating stone tool into each bore and oscillate it vertically to achieve a controlled depth, 60 degree, cross-hatch pattern to aid ring seating. Additionally, the cross-hatch pattern, though worn by many thousands of miles, will remain faintly visible for a very long time. That's intentional - even the extremely shallow depth of those lines still holds lubricating oil at the ready to minimize cylinder wall wear for cold startups.
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    Wow, now that's an answer! Thanks muchly. Going into a redline acceleration at 2000 miles will not be a "task"--it will be a pleasure!

    I've also brought this question up on VwVortex (The Car Lounge) and nobody has come up with an explanation remotely as detailed as yours. With you permission I would like to copy and paste this for their edification--crediting you of course (or not, as you wish). Let me know if that's OK. Thanks again.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Why don't you link them to ray_h1's post here? Copy and paste this link for them:
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Great, thanks! :)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    No problem for me, Steve. (Site sponsor support is based on hit volume, so, won't mind the additional revenue at all. ;))
  • joeqpublicjoeqpublic Member Posts: 5
    I got my new Accord SE (AT, 4-cylinder) only in October, and I've already experienced 2 situations and wondering if anyone else has experienced these:

    - all 4 windows were rolled down halfway down, even though they were fully up when we went in (this happened to my wife)

    - every time car was started, odometer display kept displaying a msg "Check Fuel Cap", even though the fuel cap was tightly closed. This happened for a few days, and finally last night,the display returned to normal (ie message dissapeared) - & I hadn't refuelled the car either for it to stop..

    Any help is greatly appreciated
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Windows rolled down-

    If you press the unlock button on the remote, and immediately press it again and hold it the second time, the windows will roll down until you release the unlock button. This is a ventilation feature for summertime to cool off the car. Perhaps the key was in someone's pocket or purse and being pressed, or maybe whoever unlocked the doors held the unlock button down too long when they went to the car. I'm surprised the dealer didn't tell you about this cool (if used correctly) feature of the car. You can also roll up the windows from the outside of the car by locking the door with the key (not remote) and then turning that same direction again and holding in position. This is useful to me when I get out and realize I have left my back windows down.

    Check Fuel Cap Message-

    If the cap was not properly tightened even once, the message will stay on for days before resetting itself. I have heard of this happening when people put on the fuel cap crooked, or don't click it tight. The display will stay on until the car is driven a few times (multiple cranks) and a good number of miles. The indicator comes on because of the wrong amount of pressure in the fuel tank (from an improper seal of the gas cap). Just make sure you click the cap once everytime you refuel.

    Don't be dismayed, as there are reasons for both of the little foibles you found with your car. I think the dealer just did a poor job of explaining some of the features like the remote roll-down windows.
  • masterp003masterp003 Member Posts: 22
    Hey ! that's cool (the window thing) .. Any other cool tricks you know of? i know in a way it's kind of pointless...but o well.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That's about it on the cool trick department... something I found neat the other day though - in my EX Accord the window switches are lighted (I knew that before). When you turn off the power window switches (you know the square button that you push to lock out the switches, for kids etc...) the lights on all the switches go dark. Kinda neat, if not trickery.

    The only light that stays on is the driver's "Auto" light, since his window is still active, and able to be rolled up/down.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    hmm.. not sure what to tell you then. Back when I did my tires around Spring '06, You could bring your own tires in to wal mart and get them mounted.

    That sucks if you can't anymore. I really like lifetime rotation/balance packages. I'm not sure if firestone offers that. I like going to firestone for my car work.
  • whooten_coliwhooten_coli Member Posts: 4
    Anybody else notice that the buttons for the power locks and power mirrors do not light up. Am I the only one that finds this completely bizarre? It's my only complaint for my 07 Accord SE, so that is a good thing for sure.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Um, mine do, power mirrors and power locks both, including the lock switch on the passenger side. I have an 06 EX Accord though, so it may only be offered on top-end models, and not on SE. Just a thought.
  • whooten_coliwhooten_coli Member Posts: 4
    Anybody else with an LX or SE notice this?
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    The switches for the power windows, locks, and mirrors are only illuminated on the EX, EX-L, and EX-L V6 models.

    I have an EX-L V6, and to be honest, the illuminated switches are nothing special. Now, the illuminated audio and cruise controls on the steering wheel (which the SE has, as well) OTOH are quite nice.

    My previous car (2002 Accord EX V6 sedan) didn't have illuminated lock and mirror switches. Only the "AUTO" on the driver's side window switch was illuminated. Not once in the 4.5 years I owned that car did I ever miss having illuminated mirror and lock switches. I did, however, find myself wishing for illuminated steering wheel controls on several occasions, so I'm thankful my new car has those.
  • neteng101neteng101 Member Posts: 176
    Strangely enough, that's wrong to a degree. Ok this is weird... on my SE V6... the power window switches on the driver's side are illuminated (but not the door locks or mirrors or button that enables/disables the passenger windows). And yes, disabling the passenger windows means only 1 of 4 window switches (the drivers with Auto) is lighted, enabling the passenger windows means all 4 power window switches on the drivers side are illuminated.

    The steering wheel controls are illuminated too.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The button that engages/disengages windows doesn't light up in any model I don't think. I believe the vehicle th83 meant was the LX-SE, the 4-cylinder model.
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    Hmm...if that's the case, then there's an error in the 2007 Accord brochure, and on Honda's web page. On the 'Specifications and Features' page, it shows that only the EX models come equipped with illuminated power window switches.

    I did think it was kinda strange that the $22,550 EX I4/5MT model would have them, but not the $25,200 LX V6 and $23,350 SE V6. It makes more sense to have a minor feature like that come standard on the top 4 models of the range (EX/EX-L, SE V6, LX V6, and EX-L V6) rather than having 2 models without it between the EX/EX-L and EX-L V6.

    However, if they illuminated the window switches in the SE V6, why didn't they just go the whole 9 and illuminate the lock switches and the mirror controls? That's really odd.

    And it just kills me that the passenger window lock-out button isn't illuminated. Honda, if you bothered to put lights in every other switch in the car, why didn't you put one there, huh? To save a buck or two? Yeah, thought so... :P
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    actually, from a human factors standpoint, i believe they got it right. these are seldom used controls; they don't warrant their own illumination.

    if you can locate the driver's window switch visually, you know where the others are in relation to it. it's all very logical.

    the driver's door lock switch can be located using touch.

    and if you are adjusting your mirrors, you really should be doing this once. in the case where you have multiple drivers using the vehicle, you should be doing it before you start out on your drive. but even if you are driving, at least in my '02, it can be identified via touch using the L/R switch, and also the square up/down, left/right control.

    think about this, if you were to illuminate everything, it would just create additional light levels to compete with the ones you should pay attention to on the dash.


    honda is actually pretty good at leaving out the things that aren't essential, and they've been doing this for a long long time. :D
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Actually, for yeeeeeears (extra "e's" for emphasis) the EX model has been the top of the line model in Honda's lineups. In 1995, they added a V6 option to the Accords The V6 did not designate the top model (as you could only get leather and sunroof on EX models, until recently when they started adding a sunroof to the LX-V6), just an option on the midlevel (LX) and top (EX) model.

    I think Honda sees their lineup in this order, despite the extra cost of the V6:

    VP, LX, LX-SE, SE-V6, LX-V6, EX, EX-L, EX-V6

    If you'll notice on the "trim description" page at Honda's Website, you'll see that the on the list of features SE-V6 says "adds to or replaces Special Edition (which is the LX-SE) features" which tells me that the SE-V6 is the step-up from the LX-SE. Simlarly, the LX-V6 list says "adds to or replaces SE-V6 features, making the LX-V6 a step-up from the SE-V6, not the EX I4.
  • masterp003masterp003 Member Posts: 22
    Driver's and Front Passenger's Illuminated Vanity Mirrors:
    Only the VP has "non-illuminated". What exactly is this, or what does it do?

    Also, for the Illuminated Steering Wheel-Mounted Controls, on the SE, are the audio controls illuminated?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    The vanity mirrors are behind the sun visors. The light allows your pretty face to be seen easier.

    I don't have an SE but all my EX-L controls (including audio) are lit on the steering wheel.
  • ol07ol07 Member Posts: 24
    think about this, if you were to illuminate everything, it would just create additional light levels to compete with the ones you should pay attention to on the dash.

    I agree. I often find myself turning illumination to the lowest level and turning the nav screen off too.
  • saleemsaleem Member Posts: 114
    BTW, if you have to look at the buttons on the steering wheel to change the audio, you've almost defeated the purpose ;)

    granted your hands stay on the wheel, tho
  • masterp003masterp003 Member Posts: 22
    o ok i get it. Thanks, and you too saleem.
    I thought for a second (well, for a while) the steering wheel controls weren't lighting up. Turns out they are just really dim. Hope this is normal !
  • jarubyjaruby Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2007 Honda Accord EXL Coupe V6 on 12/26/06. The CEL (Check engine light) has lit up several times in the first 1000 miles and actually left some codes on the computer stating that 2 of the cylinders had misfired. This is a major problem/concern of mine. I have taken the car in TWICE so far and will probably have to take it in a 3rd time soon because I am sure it will happen again. Does anyone know of any such problems occurring in 2007 Honda models? The dealership does not know what the problems are and cannot replicate the CEL flashing on again. Because they cannot replicate the problem, they cannot fix it. If the problem occurs again, and they can't fix it, then I will begin the procedure to "Lemon Law" the car.
  • hondafan12hondafan12 Member Posts: 5
    I just purchased a new 07 Accord EX-L and can't figure out why my front map lights don't turn on when I press them. They come on when the doors open but thats it. Is this the way it was made? There is that very dull orange light that stays on but that is hardly enough light if you want to look at a map or something. :confuse:
    Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like a problem. I'd take it to the dealer.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    That orange light is the ambient light and it is working normally. The map lights should come on with or without the key when you push them. I don't believe there is any way to shut them off like you can with the rear dome light. So I'd say there is a problem.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Anytime the check engine light comes on, it leaves a code. The technicians have the equipment ot read this code and decipher the problem. There is no need for them to duplicate the problem. I woudl try another dealership.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When the code is a misfire, it doesn't say what caused the misfire. That's why they have to try and duplicate the problem.
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    OK, so on Saturday, I purchased a 2007 Accord LX I4 5-speed. I actually had it since Thursday as I wanted to sleep on it and the dealer let me drive it around while I thought it over.

    I always heard that cars these days are manufactured to such precise tolerances that the old "break-in" procedures don't matter very much if at all anymore (that is, the parts are all machined to fit extremely well together right from the start).

    I've got 120 miles on it now. The car had 20-something miles on it when I picked it up so I can't vouch for those, but since I've had it the motor has been to redline once (wanted to see what it had) and has been up to or over 4,000 rpms maybe 20 times times (seven times when the wife drove it the other day, lol). The rest of the time has been easy 2-3k rpm cruising. Are you guys saying that I may have already shortened the life of the car somehow?

    The last Japanese sedan I had was a 1998 Mazda 626 ES 2.5L V6 5-speed manual that I got in the summer of 2001 with 50k on it. I bought it from the first owner, who said he wanted an automatic but the sales guys at the dealership talked him into that specific 5-speed "because of the performance," which he said he tried, fell in love with, and appreciated until he sold it. So, I know that car was redlined many times before 1,000 miles, and it held up great (at the 80k mile service where the timing belt was changed I was told all the seals/gaskets etc looked great, no sign of any leakage). I sold it in late 2003 at 100k miles, no sign of oil leakage or consumption, and I even called the guy I sold it to about a year later and he'd still not had any problems.

    But maybe I should cool it for the next 500 miles just to be safe (I'll admit, I haven't read the owner's manual yet...) I'll also have to try that 30-60 mph for 10 min procedure outlined above.

    Also, I'd like to run Mobil1 full synthetic. When should I make the switch? I was thinking after 1,000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I think full throttle runs up to 4,000 rpm or so are fine....good, in fact....but running up to redline isn't such a great idea just yet.

    You have to really be trying to destroy a modern engine during break-in.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I wouldn't go up to redline too often (not every day), and not for long. The worst thing for a new engine, IMO, would be keeping the engine at the same speed (rpm) for a couple hours straight.
This discussion has been closed.