Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair

thegraduate

Good ideas. I only drove the car for about 30 miles, so I didn't play around with the other electronics (PW, PL all work, didnt check the radio).

I should probably add, my granddad says it has done this for awhile, with no other problems other than the dimming/brightening.

will26

Oh, I didn't buy the car yet so I don't have access to the manual. When I get it I will read it from front to back. For real

goaccord

a stupid question, but I really do not know. Does the higher price gas means good qulity? 91 better than 89, 89 better than 87? I only use 87 for my old used car. For my new car, should I use 89 or 91, at least for break-in period?

dtownfb

Dimming headlights are a classic sign that the alternator or battery is going. Since it has been happening for a while, I would guess alternator. The vehicle is 10 years old. I would guess it would cost about $350 installed.

I'm also a believer of starting with the cheapest solution and then progressing. I would follow elroy5 suggestion first, then make sure the battery is fine and then the alternator.

dtownfb

Follow what is required in the owner's manual which I think is 87 octane. This is what the car is designed to run on. Anything higher is s waste of money.

goaccord

Hi, all
I have two more questions for my new car.
1, I found some paint defects noticable on my car. When I bought the car, dealer told me those are some gels attached so I pay no attention. But now I found those are some defects due to some press on the paintin, probably generated in the shipping. Can I go back to let dealer fix it for free? need to use warranty?
2, My car has a small jerk when shifting gears at very low speed, maybe from gear 1 to 2. Is this normal? Will it disappear after break-in peroid? Thanks.

thegraduate

The paint issue should be brought to the dealer's attention quickly, before they have the chance to say "you must've done it yourself."

The gear thing...if there's one gear change in the Accord Automatic that isn't always smooth as silk it is the 1-2 change. It doesn't "jerk" in my car, but if you accelerate it will sometimes feel like the car revved a bit too high for what you actually needed (maybe to 3k RPM when 2,500 RPM would've sufficed) and then will sort of drop off into second, with a little bit of head bobbing. It isn't "rough," just not perfect. I've noticed this more when my car is cold; less so after the car is warmed up. (I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder Auto, with 18,200 happy miles).

goaccord

I think I should go to dealer to discuss the painting. To the worst, if they do not admit their fault, can I use some warranty to do that?
about the gear, my case is similar to yours. I used to drive manual transimission car. My case is just like when changing gear improperly. This happened only when shifting from gear 1 to 2. So based on your information, I think this should be normal, at least for accord. Hopefully it will get better after more break-in.

goaccord

Thank you for your reply. About the painting, if dealer does not admit their fault, what should I do? Can I use warranty for these minor paiting defects?
About the gear problem, I used to drive manual transmission car. My case is like you do not shift properly at the perfect speed. For my car, only happened from gear 1 to 2. I hope it will get better after more break-in. At least for my old camry, the gear shifting is very smooth. I am not sure if this is because the car is new or it is inherent in honda or at least accord. Anyone has idea?

blane

Why not ask the dealer to let you test drive a couple of other vehicles to determine if they shift any differently than yours does. I'd be very surprised if you find them to be any different.

goaccord

You mean all accord should be all like my case? Actuallly I also believe so.

goaccord

The daylight is supposed to be on all the time or can be turned off? did not find answer in the manual.

elroy5

Daytime Running Lights stay on all the time. I'm sure the owner's manual has some information about it. I have an 03 (no DRL) so I can't say where it would be. Lighting or Safety section, maybe.

tallman1

I'm too lazy to try to look it up now but the manual may not say anything specifically about turning them off because (of course) it can't be done.

user777

i would imagine there is a fuse that could be pulled to disable it. i'd scan the fuse locations (there are probably three) for a probable to pull.

tallman1

Someone mentioned that awhile ago. They aren't separate lights... just dim high beams so I'm not sure pulling the fuse would work. But I don't pretend to know for sure.

elroy5

Daytime Running Lights do use the same bulb as the regular (night-time lights) with half the voltage. Since they are not using much power, and are not likely to shorten bulb life much, if at all, why would you want to turn them off?

goaccord

This is too much. I just wonder if I can switch off the daylight in some regular way. If no, I will forget it. Since I know little about these car engineering stuff, I can not do these complicated stuff like you guys.

user777

goaccord, my apologies:

see this:
http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Honda

looks like an all or nothing affair.

however, a relatively easy hack for those inclined: purchase an accesory switch to mount in the dash. one side of the switch goes to an "in-line" fuse holder, with fuse of the proper amperage to the one which will be pulled. The other switch contact, and the other end of the in-line fuse holder would go to the stabs/points in the fuse holder where the fuse which was pulled was located.

elroy5

You never said, why you want to turn the DRL off.

goaccord

I got a scratch yesterday on highway. Someone in the front car throw a small stuff out (maybe a tin). That stuff hit my car. After I checked, there is a small scrach on the door, 1 inch long, the paint was scrached off, but not so deep that show the metal. Can I fix it by myself? How?

elroy5

You can actually buy color matched paint at Walmart. It has a pen on one end, and a small brush on the other.

user777

personally, i'd go to the dealer and get the exact color match pen (this is what i'd use in this instance) and/or brush applicator. they are only a few dollars, and the paint is per the honda paint color scheme.

tallman1

If the scratch goes through to the primer, you will need touch up paint. I'd go to the dealer to get an exact match. It won't look perfect but it will be better. If the scratch doesn't go through the paint, you may be able to use some polish and then wax or sealant to fill it.

elroy5

Whatever he wants to get, is fine with me. The Duplicolor I got from Walmart has the same paint code, and it says Nighthawk Black Pearl B92-P Honda. As far as an exact match, nothing is an exact match unless it came from the same batch of paint (which would be impossible). But hey, if he wants to pay more for the same color at the dealer, so be it. :confuse:

tallman1

Absolutely true about never getting an exact match.

I did not realize that Walmart (or any other store) could get factory paint. Of course, I never set foot in the place.

grannydee

I just finished reading all the postings on Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair and am very impressed with your willingness to help other owners. So I have a question. I want to buy a new 2007 Accord. Main priorities are reliability, fuel economy, & safety. I do interstate driving, at least 200 miles a week (up to 75mph), and two lane country/city driving (55mph to 25mph) several days a week. Also live in midwest with plenty of snow. None of you seem to have many problems with your cars. I considered a Camry but am put off by reports of transmission problems. Do you think the Accord is a good choice for me and if so, V-4 or V-6. Thanks.

thegraduate

If you want a low-cost-to-own vehicle, buy the 2007 Accord 4-cylinder. The 4-cylinder Accord is faster than the 6-Cylinder Accord from ten years ago! It also offers economy much higher than EPA sticker when driven smoothly and moderately (when I go on trips, I keep my speed at 75 or below and I often get upper 30s to 40 MPG).

The V6 is in sports-sedan acceleration territory, but economy drops by 4 or 5 MPG.

I have a I4 (4-cylinder engines are "inline-four", only six cylinder engines are typically "vee-sixes" - )Accord with an Automatic, and my only real complaint was a rear-view-mirror whose glass was loose in the housing from the factory. This was replaced in 10 minutes under warranty. I LOVE THIS CAR!

pat

Hi - welcome to CarSpace! The Accord I4 vs. V6 discussion may interest you as well as the general Accord Sedan topic.

You'll find other discussions to peruse listed in the Accord Group.

Good luck and have fun!

tallman1

The 07 Accord is at the end of it's model run so many feel that all the bugs have been worked out. The 07 Camry is a brand new design so many feel that Toyota hasn't had that chance yet. The 08 Accord may have the same issues when it arrives this fall (of course, as Honda lovers, we don't expect that to happen).

Considering your three main priorities, you won't go wrong with the Accord. Drive one and see how it fits you, etc.

As for I4 and V6, you may want to visit the thread that Pat mentioned. I agree with thegrad, the 4 suits me just fine on the freeway and around town. If you feel that you need more power, drive the 6 and see. Of course, with gas prices now.... :sick:

grannydee

To: tallman1, pat, and thegraduate. I really appreciate you sharing experiences and information. I will check out the suggested topics next. Thank you so much.

thechoson

Hi all! I just got a brand new 2007 SE V6, feeling good about the purchase.

Now on my third day of having this car, some really minor things popping up, was wondering if anyone had any of the similar issues, and if it's anything serious...

1. I noticed a big wad of something that can best be described as looking like melted caramel when I opened the gas latch to pump gas for the first time. I wiped it off, but couldn't get it all off... I"m assuming this is just a big wad of glue or something, but it was strange... anyone have this happen?

2. Seems to be a minor rattle coming from the driver's door side, again wondering if this has happened to anyone..

3. Simple question for this... my gf has a I-4 2007 SE, and her hood seems to fit lower and tighter than the V6. I am assuming this is maybe because of the bigger engine on my car, or the gas hinges... but just wanted to make sure.

EDIT: 4. Adding one more thing... when I take my foot off the gas to let the engine brake, it seems to downshift quite abruptly.. nothing too lurchy, but I can feel it downshift, the RPM will pick up a bit, and the car will slow quite a bit.... is this normal as well for this car?

Thanks!

mogwee

1. I noticed a big wad of something that can best be described as looking like melted caramel when I opened the gas latch to pump gas for the first time. I wiped it off, but couldn't get it all off... I"m assuming this is just a big wad of glue or something, but it was strange... anyone have this happen.

--------> Sure did, I had the same thing happen the first time. Not the slightest clue was it was either!

thechoson

Thanks for the reply mogwee. I am glad I am not the only one... maybe we can get some answers

user777

Just a guess.

That would probably be grease. The sort of thing you see on the door hinges (look). Generally, you leave it and allow it to work to keep the metal surfaces lubricated. It's thick and doesn't run.

When new, it's probably amber or brown...getting black when there's some wear over time and metal materials get suspended in it.

thechoson

Hmm... maybe I should have just left it alone. I was worried it was going to get in the gas tank though, cause of its proximity to it.

Is grease something that could potentially cause damage if it gets into the gas tank?

user777

i suppose it could get sucked into the fuel pump intake if it didn't disolve in the gasoline.

i wouldn't worry to much about the act of removing excess. i don't think you did harm. just don't wipe it off your door hinges (if you find the same stuff there).

goaccord

I just bought the touchup paint from dealer, just 7 bucks, maybe a little more expensive than walmart. But in order to do a good job, just brushing it to the car is enough? Any detailed suggestions about how to apply it? In paintscratch.com, they have a kit including basecoat, clearcoat, thinner, rubber compound. Also I read from another forum that buffing is also needed after applying touchup paint. I am messed up with these information. Anyone can give me a rather simple but effctive way to use touchup paint to fix the scratch?

Mr_Shiftright

The problems you face with touch-up paint are, IMO, two major ones. One, the paint you apply will be somewhat lumpy and uneven, and it has to therefore be either enough to fill in the scratch, or, if you apply too much, cut down to match the depth of the scratch. This isn't easy to do with a brush or a touch-up pen.

Secondly, the color match is not always ideal.

You can't expect too much from touch-up paint. It is, after all, a "touch-up" and since we can't easily dress the scratch, sand, prime blend and paint, our work is not going to withstand a close inspection. But standing next to the car, it looks fine.

Patience is rewarded of course but you can only take touching up so far in terms of how good it will look.

Last of all, the smaller the chip or scratch, the better the odds of it coming out looking acceptable.

goaccord

Thank you Mr_Shiftright. I know touchup is not the best. But since the scratch is very samll. I expect the touchup is good enough except in the case of close inspection. Most important of all, it at least can keep the metal from further rusting. For this scratch, the body shop estimate more than $800 which is very riduculous to me. The information I want to get from this forum is, how to make the job as good as possible in a reasonable way, not too professional and too complicated since I am only a freshman.

Mr_Shiftright

If it's really a fine scratch, I'd prefer you used the little "click-pen" type of applicator and just run a very fine continuous line, allowing the scratch itself to hold the paint. But if this is a vertical surface, that's going to be tricky.

The idea is to use as little paint as possible and make a few passes...if you load up the brush or applicator it's going to look "high" and lumpy.

I haven't tried these "kits"....but I am very opposed to attempting ANY touch-up with spray cans.

mrbill1957

If the scratch is really narrow, using the brush in the bottle may be too wide. A smaller applicator (toothpick) may work better. Use the brush to remove the paint from the bottle, then use the smaller applicator.

Mrbill

elroy5

I've seen the tooth pick trick before, and it works well. I suggest that you practice on a piece of scrap (held in the same position) as many times as necessary, so you can better judge how much paint is needed to fill the scratch without being too low or too high. Practice makes perfect, as they say. Good luck

user777

yes to all the prior advice. i do think honda sells the pens. don't know if the parts dept at your dealership has them.

a few suggestions:
1). clean and dry surface
2). shake the livin' you know what out of that bottle. really
3). don't do it in direct sunlight (with the surface very hot).
4). a toothpick sounds like a good idea in the absence of the pen.
5). avoid putting excessive paint on
6). if you have to apply more paint, wait till the first coat is very dry
7). if you don't have a steady hand, find someone that does.

goaccord

When I bought the new car, dealer installed the plastic trim on the car doors for some cars. I think that small stuff is necessary especially when the parking place is very narrow. So it will help to protect your car and other cars beside you when you open door. But dealer only sell it with other accessaries for several hundred dollars, too expensive. I am wondering if anyone knows where to buy it? How much is that? Is it easy to install?

robr2

Look here:

http://www.handaaccessories.com/accext06.html

elroy5

The little plastic things for the edge of the door, will protect other people's car, if you hit them with your door (and then it will only help if the blow is not very hard). It will not protect your door, unless they happen to hit that very small area 1/2" at most.

goaccord

Yes, I understand that. Do you know where can buy that small stuff? I prefer some superstores, like walmart...
I found in some auto accecessary websites, it is more than 50 dollars. with tax and shipping should be more. Because it is somehow trivious parts, I do not want to spend much.

elroy5

I'm sure you can find some cheap door edge guards at auto parts stores, or maybe even Walmart. I have not looked for them myself, so not sure if Walmart has them or not.

tg1994

Does anyone else notice significant engine noise (whining sound) when accelerating at low speeds? I only have 1000 miles on my 4 cyl. 2.4 liter and I'm wondering if this is something to be concerned with or if it's normal.