Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair



  • th83th83 Posts: 164
    The switches for the power windows, locks, and mirrors are only illuminated on the EX, EX-L, and EX-L V6 models.

    I have an EX-L V6, and to be honest, the illuminated switches are nothing special. Now, the illuminated audio and cruise controls on the steering wheel (which the SE has, as well) OTOH are quite nice.

    My previous car (2002 Accord EX V6 sedan) didn't have illuminated lock and mirror switches. Only the "AUTO" on the driver's side window switch was illuminated. Not once in the 4.5 years I owned that car did I ever miss having illuminated mirror and lock switches. I did, however, find myself wishing for illuminated steering wheel controls on several occasions, so I'm thankful my new car has those.
  • neteng101neteng101 Posts: 176
    Strangely enough, that's wrong to a degree. Ok this is weird... on my SE V6... the power window switches on the driver's side are illuminated (but not the door locks or mirrors or button that enables/disables the passenger windows). And yes, disabling the passenger windows means only 1 of 4 window switches (the drivers with Auto) is lighted, enabling the passenger windows means all 4 power window switches on the drivers side are illuminated.

    The steering wheel controls are illuminated too.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The button that engages/disengages windows doesn't light up in any model I don't think. I believe the vehicle th83 meant was the LX-SE, the 4-cylinder model.
  • th83th83 Posts: 164
    Hmm...if that's the case, then there's an error in the 2007 Accord brochure, and on Honda's web page. On the 'Specifications and Features' page, it shows that only the EX models come equipped with illuminated power window switches.

    I did think it was kinda strange that the $22,550 EX I4/5MT model would have them, but not the $25,200 LX V6 and $23,350 SE V6. It makes more sense to have a minor feature like that come standard on the top 4 models of the range (EX/EX-L, SE V6, LX V6, and EX-L V6) rather than having 2 models without it between the EX/EX-L and EX-L V6.

    However, if they illuminated the window switches in the SE V6, why didn't they just go the whole 9 and illuminate the lock switches and the mirror controls? That's really odd.

    And it just kills me that the passenger window lock-out button isn't illuminated. Honda, if you bothered to put lights in every other switch in the car, why didn't you put one there, huh? To save a buck or two? Yeah, thought so... :P
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    actually, from a human factors standpoint, i believe they got it right. these are seldom used controls; they don't warrant their own illumination.

    if you can locate the driver's window switch visually, you know where the others are in relation to it. it's all very logical.

    the driver's door lock switch can be located using touch.

    and if you are adjusting your mirrors, you really should be doing this once. in the case where you have multiple drivers using the vehicle, you should be doing it before you start out on your drive. but even if you are driving, at least in my '02, it can be identified via touch using the L/R switch, and also the square up/down, left/right control.

    think about this, if you were to illuminate everything, it would just create additional light levels to compete with the ones you should pay attention to on the dash.


    honda is actually pretty good at leaving out the things that aren't essential, and they've been doing this for a long long time. :D
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Actually, for yeeeeeears (extra "e's" for emphasis) the EX model has been the top of the line model in Honda's lineups. In 1995, they added a V6 option to the Accords The V6 did not designate the top model (as you could only get leather and sunroof on EX models, until recently when they started adding a sunroof to the LX-V6), just an option on the midlevel (LX) and top (EX) model.

    I think Honda sees their lineup in this order, despite the extra cost of the V6:

    VP, LX, LX-SE, SE-V6, LX-V6, EX, EX-L, EX-V6

    If you'll notice on the "trim description" page at Honda's Website, you'll see that the on the list of features SE-V6 says "adds to or replaces Special Edition (which is the LX-SE) features" which tells me that the SE-V6 is the step-up from the LX-SE. Simlarly, the LX-V6 list says "adds to or replaces SE-V6 features, making the LX-V6 a step-up from the SE-V6, not the EX I4.
  • Driver's and Front Passenger's Illuminated Vanity Mirrors:
    Only the VP has "non-illuminated". What exactly is this, or what does it do?

    Also, for the Illuminated Steering Wheel-Mounted Controls, on the SE, are the audio controls illuminated?
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    The vanity mirrors are behind the sun visors. The light allows your pretty face to be seen easier.

    I don't have an SE but all my EX-L controls (including audio) are lit on the steering wheel.
  • ol07ol07 Posts: 24
    think about this, if you were to illuminate everything, it would just create additional light levels to compete with the ones you should pay attention to on the dash.

    I agree. I often find myself turning illumination to the lowest level and turning the nav screen off too.
  • saleemsaleem Posts: 114
    BTW, if you have to look at the buttons on the steering wheel to change the audio, you've almost defeated the purpose ;)

    granted your hands stay on the wheel, tho
  • o ok i get it. Thanks, and you too saleem.
    I thought for a second (well, for a while) the steering wheel controls weren't lighting up. Turns out they are just really dim. Hope this is normal !
  • jarubyjaruby Posts: 1
    I bought a 2007 Honda Accord EXL Coupe V6 on 12/26/06. The CEL (Check engine light) has lit up several times in the first 1000 miles and actually left some codes on the computer stating that 2 of the cylinders had misfired. This is a major problem/concern of mine. I have taken the car in TWICE so far and will probably have to take it in a 3rd time soon because I am sure it will happen again. Does anyone know of any such problems occurring in 2007 Honda models? The dealership does not know what the problems are and cannot replicate the CEL flashing on again. Because they cannot replicate the problem, they cannot fix it. If the problem occurs again, and they can't fix it, then I will begin the procedure to "Lemon Law" the car.
  • I just purchased a new 07 Accord EX-L and can't figure out why my front map lights don't turn on when I press them. They come on when the doors open but thats it. Is this the way it was made? There is that very dull orange light that stays on but that is hardly enough light if you want to look at a map or something. :confuse:
    Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like a problem. I'd take it to the dealer.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    That orange light is the ambient light and it is working normally. The map lights should come on with or without the key when you push them. I don't believe there is any way to shut them off like you can with the rear dome light. So I'd say there is a problem.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Anytime the check engine light comes on, it leaves a code. The technicians have the equipment ot read this code and decipher the problem. There is no need for them to duplicate the problem. I woudl try another dealership.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    When the code is a misfire, it doesn't say what caused the misfire. That's why they have to try and duplicate the problem.
  • OK, so on Saturday, I purchased a 2007 Accord LX I4 5-speed. I actually had it since Thursday as I wanted to sleep on it and the dealer let me drive it around while I thought it over.

    I always heard that cars these days are manufactured to such precise tolerances that the old "break-in" procedures don't matter very much if at all anymore (that is, the parts are all machined to fit extremely well together right from the start).

    I've got 120 miles on it now. The car had 20-something miles on it when I picked it up so I can't vouch for those, but since I've had it the motor has been to redline once (wanted to see what it had) and has been up to or over 4,000 rpms maybe 20 times times (seven times when the wife drove it the other day, lol). The rest of the time has been easy 2-3k rpm cruising. Are you guys saying that I may have already shortened the life of the car somehow?

    The last Japanese sedan I had was a 1998 Mazda 626 ES 2.5L V6 5-speed manual that I got in the summer of 2001 with 50k on it. I bought it from the first owner, who said he wanted an automatic but the sales guys at the dealership talked him into that specific 5-speed "because of the performance," which he said he tried, fell in love with, and appreciated until he sold it. So, I know that car was redlined many times before 1,000 miles, and it held up great (at the 80k mile service where the timing belt was changed I was told all the seals/gaskets etc looked great, no sign of any leakage). I sold it in late 2003 at 100k miles, no sign of oil leakage or consumption, and I even called the guy I sold it to about a year later and he'd still not had any problems.

    But maybe I should cool it for the next 500 miles just to be safe (I'll admit, I haven't read the owner's manual yet...) I'll also have to try that 30-60 mph for 10 min procedure outlined above.

    Also, I'd like to run Mobil1 full synthetic. When should I make the switch? I was thinking after 1,000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    I think full throttle runs up to 4,000 rpm or so are fine....good, in fact....but running up to redline isn't such a great idea just yet.

    You have to really be trying to destroy a modern engine during break-in.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I wouldn't go up to redline too often (not every day), and not for long. The worst thing for a new engine, IMO, would be keeping the engine at the same speed (rpm) for a couple hours straight.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    Even worse than that would be going to redline with a cold engine on start up, and even worse than that would be "lugging" a new engine by driving at low rpm in too high a gear.

    If an engine is revving freely and at not a real extreme (redline) it's not working too hard, but when it's trying to push a car up a hill at 25 mph in 5th gear, that's murder on an engine.

    Best way to destroy an engine is to lug it mercilessly, or let it ping heavily under load for long stretches.

    My personal favorite way to break in an engine is full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline, and then letting the engine drag downhill, in gear, with the foot off the gas.

    So full throttle at times, and high vacuum deceleration at times...the rest of the time just normal everyday driving without going to redline until maybe 1,000 miles.

    Besides, the rev limiter will protect you...but not from a careless downshift at too high a speed.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Hello, I just bought a I4 SE last week, and have so far put 300 miles on it so far. While out on the highway to run the break-in procedures, I realized that the car had (in my opinion) relatively loud wind noise coming from the windshield. It starts at around +60mph, and sounds constant, not to high pitched, and seems to come from the whole wind shield, and not from a hole in the insulation.

    I love how the car sounds at lower speeds (<50mph),
    but I feel this wind noise kills the experience on the

    I actually have two questions:

    1) Is this wind noise normal? Or is it something I should
    try to mention to the dealership?

    2) Are there any tried/true solutions for the wind noise?
    (Dynamat, 3M sealing tape etc). I noticed that the
    a-pillar juts out from the windshield near the base,
    creating a ledge.

    Please, any suggestions would be great. I thought I would be comfortable with the wind noise level, but lately I have
    been having second thoughts.
  • I've always avoided revving a motor before it has reached normal operating temperature or, with manuals, lugging in too low a gear.

    "full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline"... If I had to describe how my wife drives the new car in 10 words or less, that would be it, LOL... :P

    I think I'll be OK with the rest of the break-in, I realize I probably should not have had my fun with the car until after I bought it and drove 600 miles, but I'm at around 220 miles right now and the "Maintenance Minder" system has not yet changed from "100% Oil Life" down to "95% Oil Life" so the car must not think it has been treated too poorly :) .
    I'm guessing it will be a good sign if it changes to 95% at around 250 miles? That would mean it is still projecting first oil change at 5,000.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    Those factory engineers with the pocket protectors are generally really smart, and I'd rely on what they have to tell you. If the manual errs on the side of excess, you can always adjust according to your good judgement.

    I put in synthetic at the 5,000 mark on my engine, and I broke it in just like your wife does! And it's a very strong engine now, I think.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    true but there are certain procedures to follow depending on the code. your car does not just store codes for the heck of it. It's because a sensor performed out of spec. The codes narrow the problem down and the technician can do more testing to figure out the problem. This is why I mention that there is no need for the technician to "duplicate the problem". the code is proof of a potential problem.

    Do you remember what the code was? If so, there might be a few people who can give you an indication of what could be the problem..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Oil life will drop in increments of 10% until it goes to 15%. My car usually goes from 100% to 90% after about 700 miles. I just had my car serviced, and let it go all the way to 15% (never done that before). It had 6,300 miles on that oil when the car hit that 15% and told me to do maintenance.

    If you drive hard, look for Oil Life changes in increments of 500-600 miles for every 10 %. I drive lighter-footed (not revving a whole lot, but do occasionally rev to 5-6k if I'm feeling frisky and seeing a fun on-ramp ahead), so I get about 70miles/1%
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The code does not tell the tech what caused the misfire. The tech does have test testing equipment, to narrow down the problem, but if the tech cannot duplicate the problem (misfire does not happen while testing), he's screwed. The tech can always "throw parts at it" and hope he guesses right, but that can become real expensive after a couple of wrong guesses.
  • OK, currently 1600 miles on car. Slight, very slight rough idle in neutral. Felt slightly in steering wheel and driver seat bottom. Is this a breakin issue? Dealer says there are no idle adjustment. Interesting note is NO flucuation in RPMs on TACH but you can still feel it. again very slight. Is this a charcteristic of the 6 cylinder? ALSO, my temp gauge reads very cold operating temp, below midrange. And it stays that way. Anyone have any thoughts on both issues????? Thanks. P.S. Average MPG Combined city/Highway 27-28 mpg
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The temp gauge should rise to just below half way. Stuck thermostat could be the cause, or temp sensor. You can test the thermostat yourself, with boiling water. The sensor test would require a multimeter and some (service manual) specifics.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've never had a temp gauge that rose to the halfway point. Most go to about 40% of the way up.
This discussion has been closed.