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Comments
I used to do exactly the same thing. Not any longer, especially the 1k. You really need to keep that break-in oil for at least 5000 miles.
I see a lot of brake dust. Thanks
That depends. How fanatical do you want to get?? You can use the same car wash water and soap that you use on the rest of the car... just do it last so that you don't get any nasties on the paint. I have become a big fan of wheel brushes instead of wash mitts/cloths. The other option is to get a cleaner designed for just for wheels.
There are also special tools to get behind the "spokes" to the inside of the wheel. Or you can use a small brush or a microfiber cloth. You can check out car care catalogues or online car care places to see just how many tools, cleaners, and other fun things that are available.
I've never used synthetic but I'm sure someone will come along and answer your question.
There are also auto detailing sites online, like autopia, that provide plenty of info... some of it conflicting.
http://www.redlineoil.com/
These are two high performance lubricant companies that may give you some new information about oil. Obvioulsy they both will make claims about themselves that may or may not be inflated since they are selling a product.
I use Royal Purple because it is a little less expensive then Redline but it all depends on what you comfortable with.
I am pretty sure "sludge" is a residue with many factors.
Oil of any type is a factor. Oil contributes to the "sludge" when it breaks down and then potentially burns. The deposit from synthetic should be less dramatic. I sue synthetic for other reasons but I see an amount of truth in that statement althoug it is an enflted statement. Sounds like a sales pitch to me.
The reason oil turns darker is becasue the oil slowly breaksdown and the "smoking" point temperature (if you cook) gets lower and lower. The discoloration is becasue the oil is actually getting burnt.
It is expected, normal and unavoidable. I would follow you Maintenance Minder for change intervals. I use color, sometimes smell, to change the oil as well. That could be before or even after the recommended oil change interval based on several other factors .
If you don't mind paying the extra, use synthetic. You will see that more and mroe cars are being put out form the factory with synthetic. I am sure over the years petro based lubricants for most applications will be non-existent.
I was born after plastic trash bags so i don't know what it would be like before that. Today most kids will never use a tape or VHS casette. And tomorrow will probably be the same with petro based lubricants.
Check out those sites. Also search on-line for any unbiased, non-commercial studies to make a decision on what you think is best. Petro has been fine for years and is still fine. It may just require a little more proactive involvement than you would need with a synthetic.
www.zinostore.com
:shades:
I bought a 2007 Accord Coupe in March and had the dealer install the body side moulding (to prevent door dings), but the dealer installed it crooked. I ordered them to reinstall the moulding straight, and they aligned it straight but not parallel to the body line, so it looks downward sloping! I was furious, but decided to leave it like that because the dealer already scratched up my new car trying to straighten the door moulding. They offered to repaint the whole car, but I refused. I'd much rather have OEM paint than some body shop paint that might peel or fade in a couple of years.
Anyway, here's my question: Is there a safe way to remove the body side moulding? It was a peel and stick job, so can I safely peel it off, or would this damage the paint/clearcoat? The car is silver. Would it be easier to take the moulding off on a hot day so the adhesive would be more flexible? :confuse:
Thanks.
If I were you I would continue to monitor the problem. The service guy said it probably was a bad batch of struts or something and for Honda to say change everything it probably was happening more than once.
Good Luck,
Mrbill
I can keep the brakes applied, and shift from reverse to drive and back again, and I will notice a slight creak-creak, making me think its a tranny issue. But its mostly slow forward or backward movement (no brakes applied/air off) that makes the creaking noticeable.
When Honda replaced your struts and components, did that take care of the noise for you?
They should have an adhesive remover. You can pickup a bit designed for air guns but should fit your home drill. It is a whitish-yellow wheel that is rubbery. It is the best things I have used to remove adhesives, I used it to remove Factory tank stickers and the left over residue on my CBR 600RR, saved me hours and hours or time.
I think I paid $8. It was a long time ago. It will remove everything and won't damage the paint. If you are looking for a non-chemical alternative.
The wheel will probably last you forever unless you use it for work.
Hope that helps.
you have to read the directions, and re-wax areas you've removed stickers from.
i have successfully used the stuff to remove pine pitch i thought would never come off.
This is a random internet search. You should be able to buy locally. You cando your own search for Vinyl Eraser on-line. It is a rubber wheel bit.
This is what professionals use.
Is it suppose to be like that? Anyone who has the same car can comment on this? Thanks a lot.
Just read your note and wanted to respond since I have a new Honda Accord '07 SE 4 cyl auto trans, purchased last April. Traded a Honda Accord '05 LX for this one and have been well satisfied.
The acceleration meets my expectations and more. I don't notice any excessive engine noise and I believe the 'road' noise is less in this '07 than in the '05. Now have 5,600 miles on the car and the first oil change was just the other week at 5,000 miles. You have probably read the recomendations of leaving it in for 5,000 miles before changing it for the first time because of factory additives in the crankcase. If I were you I would take the car back to the dealer, express your concerns and allow them to examine it. Also request a test drive in a like model. That will help you to know what 'normal' is. Could be something as simple as a bad tankful of gas!?! At least document these concerns with your dealer in case it does get serious, then you are covered; i.e. lemon law and etc. Keep us informed how this progresses.
Did you happen to notice any change before and after break-in, or it feels pretty much the same? Thanks.
The 1st to 2nd shift is a characterstic weakenss in the Auto Transmission. It is what it is. At least with an auto you can have a big-mac, starbucks or cell phone in hand without fussing with shifting. Or all three at once.
Good luck.
I am think since it is probably elect5ronically controlled it could be programed to shift better but most aren't going to do that to an Accord.
Sorry if you thought I was offensive.
I suppose I should preface my remarks by saying...I'm an old fart! I barely push on the accelerator, the slowest upspeed to 65 mph you've ever seen. On occasion, rarely, I will really floor it and make it work thru the auto shifting but not pushing very close to the redline. Honda's are not known for smooth shifting automatics. My '07 SE Accord L4 Auto is my 5th Honda Accord. Beginning with a well used '89, then new '96, '03, '05, and now '07. The '89 was a manual and it would really scoot! It was fun to drive. The '96 was my first Honda automatic transmission and I thought it upshifted too harshly. It was never a problem, always changed the tranny fluid at 30k, and I accepted the way it shifted. The new generation beginning with '03 seems to have a much smoother shifting tranny. Finally, to answer your question....the '07 feels pretty much the same as it did on day one with 4 miles on the ody. I believe that Honda did a superb job on the '07 from design to production. It simply amazes me how Honda can constantly make their cars so much better. I haven't seen the '08 yet, only in pictures, but I sure look forward to checking it out. Best of luck to you and I hope you can come to the same level of happiness with your Accord as I am with mine.
That sounds like the fuel injectors clicking, which is normal. The loudest sound I hear when the engine is idling (very quiet) is the injectors.
Purge Control Solenoid Value
36162-RAA-A01 VALUE
PUR CONT SOL
The broken part does not affect the car performance, just the above normal noise level.
The ride is rather noisy and rough on the highway and am wondering if its the tires ,or just the car itself. Also, the brakes seem super sensitive ,do others feel that way to?
These tires seem to transmit every highway imperfection and noise. They are fine around town.