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I don't recall seeing your problem mentioned. I suggest you take the dealer at his word and relax.
The parts (I don't what is the name of the parts) does not affect the vehicle performance but it produces the sound louder than normal.
The parts is on order so I will have to visit the dealer one more time to swap the broken parts.
The technician told me that this is the known problem of Accord. Which year of Accord, I don't know.
Here is the work statement from the dealer:
-Client states both FT windows make a grind noise when going up.
-Cause: Abnormal sound
826110 Front door window regulator (left), replace
453 WH3
1 72250-SDA-A02 Regulator, L- FR-
1 72210-SDA-A02 Regulator, R- FR-
827110 Front dooe window regulator (right), replace
453 WH3
We recently bought a new four cylinder automatic 2007 accord ex. The car has less than a thousand miles on it. In the reverse gear, the automatic transmision makes a whining noise (much like the manual transmison cars that I drove before).
The other whining noise described elsewhere on this forum in the forward gears is there as well to some extent, but the whine in reverse is more noticeable (you can't miss it...)
Can anyone tell me if this sound normal for this car? Does your car do that too or do I need to see the dealer??
Thanks
when I shift the gear to "D" from either "P" or "R", I hear a loud audiable CLANK noise (clearly audiable even when the radio is on). The car is very new and I was wondering if this is normal. (Even my '95 old maxima doesnt make that sound). Thanks
cheers
This describes what my experience has been. Thanks for the reassurance, Elroy5.
I would love to hear if others are experiencing this as well (a little more comforting I guess).
Thanks.
What elroy said is exactly right though.
Don't fear!
That is exactly what it is. The first time you drive off, you will hear and feel the self-check of the ABS-Traction Control system. Nothing to worry about.
What elroy said is exactly right though.
Don't fear!
Thank you both - I feel better!
For good measure, I drove my grandmother's 2002 LX Accord (4-cyl Auto) last week, and it makes the "whine" in reverse as well.
Glad you feel better. You have nothing to worry about as far as the reverse-whine is concerned.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
THANKS
Part orders for me arrived in parts department.
Desc Part Number Bin Emp
VALUE, PUR C 36162-RAA-A01 SOP 525
I am going to install this parts next week.
So was this part somehow related to the hose that was "beating" and shown in the pic you posted?
How do you do that?
The oil pick up is the bottom of the sump, if the plug is out and you are pouring oil into the top of the engine, how is the oil pump pressurised to get the oil into the journals?
Trade the automatic POS and get a manual.
Honda disabled that. You can not redline the engine if the vehicle is not in gear and not moving. They did it to preserve the life of the engine, since the pistons travel at the speed of sound at redline (TSX engine). The rev limiter is set to about 4000 RPM in neutral.
But just so I know visually......what you are saying is if I am sitting in an Auto and have it in Nuetral then give it gas it will begin limiting at around 4K RPM and the tach will not show it climb to the upper end of the Tach.
So basically if someone did what I thought could happen they would be able to tell it wasn't actually redlining becasue they would see the gauge float at about 4K.
Is that right?
I have not tried revvinig it in neutral while moving. But, I bounce off the rev limiter once in a while (I drive stick).
I don't have the Accord, but CR-V uses similar engine, just tuned for more torque (K24A1), and TSX uses similar engine tuned for more horsepower with VTEC on intake and exhaust and higher compression to take advantage of higher octane gas.
When you say bouncing off the limiter it's becasue you missing a shift? I'm guessing you not just sitting at a light reving? And if so shouldn't you be able to hold the RPM higher than 4K for the quickest take off.
What if you RPM doesn't dip below 4K while shifting because you are at the top end already. Does it disuprt the transfer of power?
I'm sure those questions don't make sense. I'm just a little confused as to why a Manual transmission would limit the rev, below standard limit, while a gear is not engaged.
Hope it isn't frustrating for you trying to explain this. I'm at my desk and not in my car to go through the entire experience you are describing, but I will later.
In order to maximize engine output, such as when needing to accelerate rather briskly, you would like to remain in the RPM range where engine produces most of the power, which in Honda's case very close to the red line. I think the rated output is at 6500 RPM, and the redline is at 6800 RPM, while the fuel cut off is at around 7000 RPM on the CR-V. Accord may have slightly different numbers, but pretty much all of K-series engine, except for the TSX and Civic Si/RSX-S red line around 7000 RPM. I think TSX and Civic Si/RSX-S engines rev to 8000 RPM to make 200 HP.
The RPM drop going from 1st to 2nd in a manual CR-V is about 1000 RPM, so if I shift at or near the redline, I am still in the engine's high output range for the second gear. In fact, on many occasions, I have chirped the tires shifting from 1st to 2nd, and this is despite CR-V being AWD. Same for 2nd to 3rd gear shifts. The ratio from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th is a little bit wider. Most won't be redlining in 3rd gear as the vehicle is already moving at 90 or so miles per hour by then.
As to why yhe 4000 RPM limit in neutral:
A: To prevent people from over revving the engine. Free loading engine is not going to respond to the rev limiter at 7000 RPM as eagerly as a loaded engine. Whic may result in the engine revving faster than 7000 RPM. At that point, the pistons are already traveling close to the speed of sound, and weaker connecting rods may snap. The TSX and Civic Si/RSX-S engines have stronger connecting rods designed to withstand the sonic speeds that pistons travel at 8000 RPM.
B: To prevent people from dropping the clutch at redline to do crazy burn outs.
I have driven current gen Accord Manual when it first came out in the fall of 2002. It has the smoothest, silkiest, most buttery shifts ever. The shifter is very short and you can just flick it with your fingers to shift. Even though they use the same tranny in the CR-V, with the addition of the rear power take off for the AWD, the shifter mechanism is not as smooth. It is probably due to the longer stick it self as well.
By the way, all of the current manual transmissions connected to K-series engines are the same 6-spd gear boxes. On the 5-spd version, there is a spacer for the 6th gear. The cost in parts is about $200 to get the 6th gear functional. Few people with Elements did it as well as one with a CR-V.
You just blew my mind. All you have to do is take that spacer out, put the gear in place, and presumably do something to the linkage/shifter, and you have a 6-speed?
$200 in parts... but what about the labor? I'd assume you have to take the transmission apart, what does that cost? Probably a lot more than $200.
What is the total investment? I bet it voids the warranty too...
$200 in parts... but what about the labor? I'd assume you have to take the transmission apart, what does that cost? Probably a lot more than $200.
What is the total investment? I bet it voids the warranty too...
Yes, you have to take out the tranny, open it. Drive the spacer out, and drive the 6th gear on both input and output shafts. You need a new gate for the shifter and the knob (optional if you want the stealth look of a 5 spd). The linkages remain. After the mod, your 6th gear is where the Reverse was, and Reverse is next one up (to the right and forward) next to the 5th.
The cost... people who have done it, did it them selves. Not sure what it costs at a shop, but I know it costs about $400 to replace a clutch (which only costs $100), because tranny needs to be removed. This is is a little more complicated and the costs should be close to tranny overhaul.
Anyone with jackstands and a jack can do it. I have bench pressed a VW tranny in place when it needed new clutch. Honda tranny is lighter than VW, it should be a piece of cake bench press Honda tranny in place. Or you can just strap it to a tranny jack.
Yes, it will void the tranny warranty, but there is very little to go wrong with manual transmission, so chances are that you won't have to have it repaired under warranty, ever.
I think you are doing more damage than good by doing that. You are basically inducing oil starvation in order to get the last few drops of the old oil.
The crankshaft, cam shaft, valve lifter, pistons and rings are all running dry and getting overheated....
If you want to make sure that you replace 99.9% of the oil, do 3 consequtive oil changes with 10 mile drives in-between.
On the other hand, I don't think that having 1-5% of the old oil in the engine is going to do much damage, certainly much less damage than running the engine dry. Just my $0.02.
this is with the vehicle up on ramps with the engine and engine oil warmed up, but DEFINITELY with the engine not running.
anyone getting under a vehicle that is running for any reason has to have a good one, with the wheels clearly off the ground (at the very least).
nope, not me. :shades:
I know you're talking, but I can't understand what you're saying!
Engine doesn't want to "let go?" Huh?
Maybe someone else can decipher and help?
I'm not trying to sound like an english teacher, but complete, coherent sentences would be VERY helpful in trying to figure out what you're saying.
How dirty is this oil when it's coming out of the drain plug (compared to the oil drained out initially)? It seems to me the oil you are pouring through the engine is only rinsing/cleaning what it touches, and probably not touching very much. :confuse:
Maybe your brakes are dragging. It's hard to tell from what you're saying.
I'm not trying to sound like an english teacher, but complete, coherent sentences would be VERY helpful in trying to figure out what you're saying.
Haha, you can say that again. Maybe English is his/her second/third language. :confuse:
But I don't know where is this part's location.
this is with the vehicle up on ramps with the engine and engine oil warmed up, but DEFINITELY with the engine not running.
anyone getting under a vehicle that is running for any reason has to have a good one, with the wheels clearly off the ground (at the very least).
nope, not me.
Oh, OK, so you are not running the engine, you just pour the oil on top and let it drain out the bottom, with the engine off.
My bad.
You probably don't need to do that, since the benfit is very minimal.
I will do that next oil change. When I change the oil, it doesn't use the whole 5 quarts, so I will run some through and see what comes out.
Been looking back through the forum, and would love to see a little more concentrated advice on the transmission lag/jerk that has been reported by a few folks (see post excerpts below)
I'm experiencing a very unpleasant lag when accelerating at low speeds, and it's making me strongly regret having purchased the car.
I'll start out in first, and then press the gas. There is a very noticeable delay between pressing the gas and the car moving forward. Very mushy, not sharp at all, with a noticeable hesitation prior to the shift.
I've driven a 2004 that didn't have this problem. I did notice it on another Accord we test drove, but not so much on this one during the test drive.
I'm hoping for some solid experience on what I can do about this because I'm not too psyched about it.
Best,
ralph
Previous Posts on this general topic:
greentooth, "Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair" #105, 9 Mar 2007 2:38 pm
#105 of 402 Transmission not smooth on 07 VP by greentooth Mar 09, 2007 (2:38 pm)
Bookmark | Reply
Hi guys,
I bought my 07 accord VP last Dec., and have put about 1.5k miles on it. Everything looks fine except the transmission feels not very smooth, especially on the first gear. Sometimes I can feel a slight lag or jerk when the trans shift in to or out of the first gear. I am sure I followed the accord manual during the break-in period. Now I am just wondering whether it is normal or not, do you guys have the same experience as me?
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goaccord, "Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair" #161, 16 Apr 2007 10:20 am
#161 of 402 new car problem by goaccord Apr 16, 2007 (10:20 am)
2, My car has a small jerk when shifting gears at very low speed, maybe from gear 1 to 2. Is this normal? Will it disappear after break-in peroid? Thanks.
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thegraduate, "Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair" #162, 16 Apr 2007 12:58 pm
#162 of 402 Re: new car problem [goaccord] by thegraduate Apr 16, 2007 (12:58 pm)
The gear thing...if there's one gear change in the Accord Automatic that isn't always smooth as silk it is the 1-2 change. It doesn't "jerk" in my car, but if you accelerate it will sometimes feel like the car revved a bit too high for what you actually needed (maybe to 3k RPM when 2,500 RPM would've sufficed) and then will sort of drop off into second, with a little bit of head bobbing. It isn't "rough," just not perfect. I've noticed this more when my car is cold; less so after the car is warmed up. (I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder Auto, with 18,200 happy miles).
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goaccord, "Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair" #164, 16 Apr 2007 4:42 pm
#164 of 402 Re: new car problem [thegraduate] by goaccord Apr 16, 2007 (4:42 pm)
About the gear problem, I used to drive manual transmission car. My case is like you do not shift properly at the perfect speed. For my car, only happened from gear 1 to 2. I hope it will get better after more break-in. At least for my old camry, the gear shifting is very smooth. I am not sure if this is because the car is new or it is inherent in honda or at least accord. Anyone has idea?
It's time for maintenance, and your book will tell you what the A1 means you should have done to your car.
I can feel a vibration from the interior window frame and have pushed out on the window to see if the noise changes - no success. I have mentioned it to the dealership and their solution is to replace the weather stripping around the windshield and/or sun-roof. Any ideas from the forum would be most appreciated.