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Comments
i might not put my point across in a 100% flawless manner, obviously i do it so imperfectly so you seem to miss it. I am all for being educated, but if a dealer agrees to fix something without pressure on my part whatsoever that suggests that the demand is within norm. After all they did indicate up front that one of the ussues cannot be fixed and i accepted it.
I also very certain of what should be expected of a brand new Honda, and that IS based on personal experience.
that's exactly what i thought.
Perhaps he knew that the tech that did all the transmission work was so good at it that he was able to do it for less than the rate GM was paying and that the procedure was actually more profitable than other work that day. Or the service advisor may have been so beaten down by other customers he wasn't willing to fight you. Who knows.
i can only speculate on that....perhaps the fact that the tech was busy all day with no downtime justified the rate...it must've made some sort of financial sence for them. nonetheless it was them who suggested the repair. as matter of fact they were incredibly nice to me, definitely beyond my expectations.
Dealer Ratings
1. Left passenger door slightly sticking out.
2. Rattle noises inside from consold and right seat somewhere.
3. Both Rear Window grinding noises when closings.
4. Side mirrors weren't glued in neatly, etc.
I didn't care too much about 1, 2, 4. So I took the car in for windows regulator replacements on the two rear windows. That when the nightmares began during the 5 visits.
Visti # 1: order parts.
Visit #2: windows regulator replaced. Windows Tints were also replaced due to scratches. Left window grinding noises now happened on both down and up loudly. Right window is OK, but could be improved.
Visit # 3: Retinted windows since they did a poor job. Order parts for left window regulator again. Car was taken on a job ride for 30 miles. Front bumper was all scratch up. Left doors were dings and scratched.
Visit # 4: Left window regulator replaced. Car was towed to body shop for repair/repaint to bumper and 2 left doors.
Visit # 5: Pick up car from body shop. Window grinding noises still there on left rear window. Compaints about minor paint works which they took care at the site.
At this point, I concluded that my new Honda are so beaten up from repeated removal and reinstall to the 3 doors and bumpers. It was all dirty up and scratches inside as well as hearing more rattle noises. I spent hours cleaning it at home.
I vowed not to take the car for service anytime soon. Left a message to the service advisor that they have fixed nothing. Won't be buying another Honda in the future (owned 3 previous to this one). Advisor mentioned that there is a factory defect to these and replacement parts.
If they want to replace both regulators, I am not sure if I should go ahead with it or not.
This sound appears to be coming from the front passenger side and only happens when the car has been sitting a couple of hours.
Should I be concerned an take it back to the dealer? My previous car was a 1996 Accord and it made a similar sound so I took it to the dealer and they said it was "the ABS powering up".
Thanks
Similar sound... same reason. It's the ABS system... don't worry about it.
different capacities.
I'm interested in how much to put in when i do a oil change w/filter,radiator flush,and tranny flush.
Thanks
I am going to have the dealer take a look. Has anyone experienced this problem, or knows what it could be?
Anybody else experiencing this - is thie type of issue covered under the warranty and would the only remedy be to replace the seat?
Yury, I might have the same issue with the seats -where exactly did you apply the WD40?
both of them were roughly in the area where the back connects with the seat, on the left side.
you will see at the bottom left on the back of the seat there's a plastic end with a plastic pin. The pin attaches the end and the felt cover if i remember it correctly. Undo it and behind it there are metal seat frame and various nuts and bolts connecting the back to the seat. In both cases the creak was coming from there. Basically i was rocking the back trying to hear where from exaclty it comes and applying WD40 discretely at the connecting parts, bols and nuts. It took me a few tries in a few spots to nail it. Not too hard, just takes a bit of patience.
Btw, i am not sure, but maybe the silicon spray would be better.
Silicone spray will create a barrier that should be much more effective than an oil based product. Silicone does not attract dust and dirt where WD40 or oil lubes will.
Since heat shouldn't be an issue with a seat slider I would think that silicone would be a better choice. I was told silicone breaks down quicker under heat that oil based products.
If the noise comes back I would try a silicone spray.
maybe i should just respray it with silicon now to be done with it.
Thank you both. I will try it. I hope you don't hear the squeak again, Yury, but atleast you know what to do if you do.
cb2k
Clean Surface
Wipe down with Alchohol based cleaner (Rubbing or anything you might use to clean electronics with
Let dry completely
Spray on Silicone
Rub in with rag
Mist spray a final coat
I have never needed to apply ever again after doing that. I have done if I am bored but it probably wasn't necessary.
so, any leads?
PS i did find info for the CD pocket in some XM radio install manual
4 bolts, an electronic plug or two for the airbag and seatbelt wiring (depending on equipment), and it's out. Then I am sure it is a few more bolts to remove the "base" of the sliders and begin applying from there. And then put them right back in.
It's actually kind of fun the first times you do it. Especially if a person has never done it and it seems intimidating. It is kind of liberating to know that seats aren't all that. And before you know it you're rebuilding an engine. Who needs WYO-TECH anyway? Grab a book and read.
i haven't looked at how to do the seat, but what usually worries me is the plastic panels...they proably use plastic clips and if you don't now where to pull/push you end up with broken plastic parts....what's where instructions help.
besides, in this case it doesn't seem to be all that necessary
What is it that you need? If you are changing your oil, for example, you use the change capacity because you will never get every drop out. My manual says the I4 is 4.4 qts and the V6 is 4.5.
Engine coolant: 1.77gals. total 2.22 gals.???
I'm one who likes to know my car,especially the mechanics.
When i have to change the oil&filter is it 4.5.or 5.3? ditto with the radiator,1.77gal.,or 2.22gal?
:confuse:
replace.
Yes, that seems strange to me too. If someone is going to rebuild their engine, they will need way more information than what's included in the owner's manual. :confuse:
I think he is referring to the suggestion that you take a new engine to red line to break it in properly. Someone posted a link to that theory some time ago on some thread here. I don't think there is a consensus that this is proper, however.
I have noticed that at approximately 2500 rpm (gears 1,2 and 3) my engine has a hiccup that is noticable through the gas pedal/steering wheel vibrations. I'm not getting any messages on my dash about it but it is very annoying to say the least.
Is anyone else experiencing this problem? Any ideas what may be causing this?
I've read a lot about cars and oil today. I've become convinced that there is no need to follow the old 3000 change interval. I go by the MM and do it at 15%. You will find lots of others who want the piece of mind with earlier oil changes. After all that I've read, I have piece of mind with letting it go longer.
Thanks