First let me say thank you to all of the hosts and readers/contributors - this forum/board is a great source of information for so many things automotive!!
Now my Question - We leased a 2006 Mercedes R500 at the end of the model year when factory and dealer incentives were too good to be true and R sales were in the toilet. We drove off with an R sporting a $62k+ MSRP for 27 months at $508 per month, nothing down other than 1st month payment and MB bank fee. $16k+ in cap cost reductions all came from MB USA and the dealer. While the cap cost along with a decent MF and residual yielded a great monthly payment, the cap cost and likely unrealistic residual are going to kill me at lease end. The 67% residual gives a lease buy out of $42k (for those who dont know it is based on MSRP NOT capitalized cost). Given the revised pricing of the R in 2007 and overall poor sales, there is no way this thing will be selling for $42k in 27 months - 2006 R500s are selling for high 40s after less than 12 months!!
I already know that I want to keep my R at the end of the lease - So my question is does MB USA negotiate lease end buy outs? I know some manufacturers like Honda maintain a "no negotiation" policy. Also since $10k of the cap cost reduction came from MB USA is there any argument that it should have reduced or did reduce the MSRP for purposes of calculating the residual? Assuming MB negotiates, is it fair at the time to see what dealers are selling similar used cars for and shoot for a value a few thousand less than dealer asking price recognizing that it costs money to go over/prep/clean an off lease car, warranty it, build in dealer profit and carrying cost?? Realistically, this car is likely to be worth somewhere in the mid to high $30s at the end of the 27 month lease with 30k miles.
I just bought a 2007 4x2 Limited, with the following options: Z1(preferred accessory pkg), EY(DVD system), NV(navigation), HP(hood protector), E5(exhaust tip), RF(rear spoiler), WL(wheel locks) The MSRP was about $47,000, and I got it for $39,180 plus tax and license. I also got the extended warranty for 7 years for $1500, down from $2195. I know they have to 08s coming soon, but I don't need a bigger SUV with an even thirstier engine!
Im having all kinds of issues with my 2007 dodge 2500 cummins with a 6 speed automatic transmission. The service center at the dealership started to admit there were problems but then after having my truck for a few days came back to me and said that chrysler claims these are normal sounds and reactions. I have taken it in on three separate occasions and they are saying that they will not do any more for me. What advice can someone give me? Has anyone else had these types of problems? Specifically, clunking noises in the transmission when first accelerating and also decelerating. Grinding and shimmying affects when accelerating in first gear. Please give me any advice or information you have and how to go about this to get further assistance from chrysler. THIS IS NOT NORMAL>.
What is the biggest difference between the 07 & 08 dbl cab sr5 prerunner? Is there enough to justify getting an 08 rather than saving the money on a 07. Also what are people paying for a dbl cab sr5 prerunner, no other options?
Try asking that in the discussion pf_flyer linked for you in poat 1691. This discussion is a place to get help on where to post rather than get help on specific vehicle issues. I'm sure the folks hanging out in the 08 Tacoma discussion will be able to answer your questions.
Hello Forum! First of all, this is a great place for info From buying to owning to selling. I love this place.
I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.
It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.
I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.
My local dealer in LA has received his first 2008 CX-7's and I took a look yesterday. On the left side of the engine where an engine mount should be there is a can about the size of an oil filter. The salesman explained that it was an explosive device and in the event of a crash it would propel the engine up and out of the way. Is this for real? Has anyone had this happen on their 2007? What does it cost to put the engine back in, or is it hopeless? Could it go off in a minor accident?
Meanwhile, join the Mazda CX-7 discussion with real world owners who have their feet firmly planted on the ground. Be sure to check out the various topics in the Mazda CX-7 group.
I am considering purchasing a Kia Sedona in Buffalo, NY and brining it back to Ontario. I have already gotten a lot of good info from this site and the RIV site but have a few remaining questions.
Will US dealers take trade-ins? (2001 Montana)
When you get to the border and need to pay duty/gst, etc will they accept a credit card or do you need cash?
I am especially interested to hear from anyone who has imported a new KIA from US to Ontario regarding your personal experience/problems/etc.
Our '06 HH has stalled while in traffic four times now and it would be good to know if anyone else has had this problem (and found the fix). When driving in stop and go traffic at 5 - 10 MPH after ten minutes, the warning lights and bells go off and all power to the wheels shuts off. Once we coast to a full stop, put it in Park and switch off the ignition it will start back up and off we go again (with the "Check Hybrid Synergy System" reading in the display. Our Toyota dealer has been helpful and replaced several sensors so far. Since this problem happens in traffic, it has been un-nerving to say the least.
If anyone else has had this problem, please post what was done to fix it. Thanx
a couple of nights ago the headlights went off and wont turn on. its a pull switch. the tail lights and back blinkers work, but the front blinkers and lights wont. help.
I am having trouble finding information on the O-rings used on the high and low pressure pipe at the evaporator. I went to an auto parts store and ordered an O-ring set for the A\C system, when I picked up the O-ring set there wasn't any information on which O-rings went where. I bought a Chilton's book but that was a dead end. I disconnected the high & low pipes and found what looks like a wiper instead of a O-ring. I replaced the so called wiper with the identical part in the new O-ring set but it did't hold pressure. I am at a lose as what to do, Please help.
I am unable to find the command to start a new discussion. I always have to post as a reply. Am I missing something? I have a very specific question about a Subaru and ended up posting it in the "Subaru Crew" topic as a reply because it has the most views...
What you want to do is scan the discussion list to find the most appropriate discussion for your question so that you're asking it where that issue is being discussed.
If you're looking for help with a specific problem, the Search Forums and Advanced search in the left sidebar can help you home in on things. For example, searching for "outback stalling" in the advanced search would get you to posts about that specific issue. Give it a shot!
Hi, I have a 2000 grand cherokee ltd with 4.7L v8. 4WD 94,000 miles. Over the past several months we have had recurring problems with it running very rough and sometimes cutting off. Here is the history. About 2 years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter. Recently started rough idle, up and down rpm when idling, whole car rocks side to side, sometimes cuts off. Also tends to have a hard shift from transmission from time to time. Took to mechanic - did fuel injector and throttle body cleaning and replaced spark plugs. Ran great a few days and problem returned. Took back to mechanic and he redid fuel injector and throttle body cleaning. Worked fine another week or two and problem started again. Took back to mechanic and he replaced the throttle control sensor. This worked for about 2 weeks. Then problem started again. This time took to Jeep Dealer. They replaced purge solenoid. This worked for about 1 month and problem has started again. :mad: Any ideas?
I hate to keep dumping money into the jeep. It also needs front and rear pinion seals, transmission adapter seals, and cv boots. Need to decide to spend a little more to fix or trade it.
I recently replaced the brake master cylinder on my 95 Ford Aerostar. Now the power assist doesn't work. Any idea what I missed when I put the new one in?
One of the discussions in the Aerostar group should be a good place to ask. The general brake issues discussion in Maintenance & Repair might be helpful as well.
HELP! i am tired of not knowing what the mechanic is saying to me or if he's ripping me off. is there any book out there that will fill me in on the basics of a 2001 nissan pathfinder? or a class i could take to not feel so foolish? :confuse: thanks
Best place to start would be to head to the Nissan Pathfinder Group and start picking the brains of the Pathfinder owners discussing their vehicles there.
Does this tool exist: Where I can put in the maximum price I can afford to pay for used vehicle and the tool tells me what used vehicles sell at that price (private party or dealership).
I think that would end up offering me choices I never might have thought of otherwise and give me a sense of what I can shop for.
If you go to the Used Car link at Edmunds.com, the first thing you'll see at the top is a Find Your Next Car link.
It'll ask for a brand and zip code, but once you click through there's a place to put the price range you are interested in and it won't limit your search by make or model (unless you enter something in those search fields). It's through AutoTrader, an Edmunds partner.
i have a 1964 dyna-vision electronic engine analyzer in good working condition and would like to find out what it is worth and who might be interested in buying
While we don;t allow buying and selling of itmes on the forums, you might want to post your question in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion. A fair number of really handy folks and auto techs that post in that discussion might be able to give you some feedback on the value of it.
I'm looking for the best Front Hood Bug/Rock Deflector for my Lexus RX 300 on the market...all the ones on the Net I've seen so far do not come down far enough around the grill to prevent rock chips on the most exposed section of the hood.
for a 97 taurus sho v8 3.2. we have the keyless remote to the car but we want the keyless door code too. we have the manual but there is no code in it. can someone help us out with where the code is. the dealer that we buy it from said that he didnt have the code for it.SO PLEASE HELP US OUT THANKS
You'll find that Add a Discussion link at the top at most of the boards here (the Maintenence & repair board being an exception) but in with the number of discussions we have, chances are that there's an existing discussion where your question would be appropriate.
In general, you'll find that you get a better and faster response by placing your questions in an existing discussion rather than creating one that has to be discovered by other users.
The search tools in the left sidebar can help you find existing discussions. Just choose the make and model using the Browse By Vehicle tool to find discussions about a specific vehicle for example.
If it turns out that you have a topic for discussion that isn't covered under one of the existing discussions, by all means use the Add a Discussion link to start it up.
If you have any questions, feel free to click my username or the username of any other host and we'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
Not sure where to post this but could use some advice. Dealer about 45-60 minutes away had the exact car in stock that I wanted so I made a trip there to take a look. Brought in my current car to trade in (I have about 6-8k in equity depending on value).
Anyway, my main concern was getting an appraisal on my trade-in, since if they weren't going to offer me much I would keep the car, sell it for more on my own and come back.
To make a long story short, after about 2 hours of haggling on trade in and car price, we can't come to a deal as they don't want to offer anything close to the KBB trade-in value, which is fine. I thank them for their time, and after going through the "wait, my GM wants to talk to you, etc." and them playing "hide the keys" we finally leave.
Salesman calls back a week later, and basically says "we had your trade-in registration stapled to your paperwork and forgot to give it back to you. Can you come back down and get it?"
Of course I don't buy this for a second, they intentionally kept it so I would have to come back (numerous other unsavory tactics when I was there earlier confirm this in my mind). I told them I needed it because I had people looking at the car that upcoming weekend (true) let alone if I get pulled over driving and told them to FedEx it to me, and they said they would. Of course, 2 weeks later I still don't have it. Do I have any recourse here? I am not going to spend 1.5-2 hours of my time and gas driving back there to get my registration back.
Comments
Now my Question - We leased a 2006 Mercedes R500 at the end of the model year when factory and dealer incentives were too good to be true and R sales were in the toilet. We drove off with an R sporting a $62k+ MSRP for 27 months at $508 per month, nothing down other than 1st month payment and MB bank fee. $16k+ in cap cost reductions all came from MB USA and the dealer. While the cap cost along with a decent MF and residual yielded a great monthly payment, the cap cost and likely unrealistic residual are going to kill me at lease end. The 67% residual gives a lease buy out of $42k (for those who dont know it is based on MSRP NOT capitalized cost). Given the revised pricing of the R in 2007 and overall poor sales, there is no way this thing will be selling for $42k in 27 months - 2006 R500s are selling for high 40s after less than 12 months!!
I already know that I want to keep my R at the end of the lease - So my question is does MB USA negotiate lease end buy outs? I know some manufacturers like Honda maintain a "no negotiation" policy. Also since $10k of the cap cost reduction came from MB USA is there any argument that it should have reduced or did reduce the MSRP for purposes of calculating the residual? Assuming MB negotiates, is it fair at the time to see what dealers are selling similar used cars for and shoot for a value a few thousand less than dealer asking price recognizing that it costs money to go over/prep/clean an off lease car, warranty it, build in dealer profit and carrying cost?? Realistically, this car is likely to be worth somewhere in the mid to high $30s at the end of the 27 month lease with 30k miles.
thanks for your help!
The MSRP was about $47,000, and I got it for $39,180 plus tax and license. I also got the extended warranty for 7 years for $1500, down from $2195. I know they have to 08s coming soon, but I don't need a bigger SUV with an even thirstier engine!
If you didn't get the RAV4, sorry for guessing wrong. :shades:
The shot bed has bedliner, do I still need to buy a bed mat in order to carry some hard stuff (like paver)?
Thanks.
I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.
It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.
I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.
Does anyone have any idea what this could be?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
Check out this thread too (plug wire loose?):
bluedevils, "Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair" #3178, 19 Mar 2007 7:05 am
Meanwhile, join the Mazda CX-7 discussion with real world owners who have their feet firmly planted on the ground. Be sure to check out the various topics in the Mazda CX-7 group.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Will US dealers take trade-ins? (2001 Montana)
When you get to the border and need to pay duty/gst, etc will they accept a credit card or do you need cash?
I am especially interested to hear from anyone who has imported a new KIA from US to Ontario regarding your personal experience/problems/etc.
Thanks,
If anyone else has had this problem, please post what was done to fix it. Thanx
Thanks,
Ben
If you're looking for help with a specific problem, the Search Forums and Advanced search in the left sidebar can help you home in on things. For example, searching for "outback stalling" in the advanced search would get you to posts about that specific issue. Give it a shot!
I have a 2000 grand cherokee ltd with 4.7L v8. 4WD 94,000 miles. Over the past several months we have had recurring problems with it running very rough and sometimes cutting off. Here is the history.
About 2 years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter.
Recently started rough idle, up and down rpm when idling, whole car rocks side to side, sometimes cuts off. Also tends to have a hard shift from transmission from time to time.
Took to mechanic - did fuel injector and throttle body cleaning and replaced spark plugs. Ran great a few days and problem returned.
Took back to mechanic and he redid fuel injector and throttle body cleaning. Worked fine another week or two and problem started again.
Took back to mechanic and he replaced the throttle control sensor. This worked for about 2 weeks. Then problem started again.
This time took to Jeep Dealer. They replaced purge solenoid. This worked for about 1 month and problem has started again.
:mad:
Any ideas?
I hate to keep dumping money into the jeep. It also needs front and rear pinion seals, transmission adapter seals, and cv boots. Need to decide to spend a little more to fix or trade it.
thanks
I think that would end up offering me choices I never might have thought of otherwise and give me a sense of what I can shop for.
Thanks for any help.
It'll ask for a brand and zip code, but once you click through there's a place to put the price range you are interested in and it won't limit your search by make or model (unless you enter something in those search fields). It's through AutoTrader, an Edmunds partner.
Once you decide on a car, check out the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences board for real world deals.
Somebody is always collecting something!
Thanks for your help!
In general, you'll find that you get a better and faster response by placing your questions in an existing discussion rather than creating one that has to be discovered by other users.
The search tools in the left sidebar can help you find existing discussions. Just choose the make and model using the Browse By Vehicle tool to find discussions about a specific vehicle for example.
If it turns out that you have a topic for discussion that isn't covered under one of the existing discussions, by all means use the Add a Discussion link to start it up.
If you have any questions, feel free to click my username or the username of any other host and we'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
Anyway, my main concern was getting an appraisal on my trade-in, since if they weren't going to offer me much I would keep the car, sell it for more on my own and come back.
To make a long story short, after about 2 hours of haggling on trade in and car price, we can't come to a deal as they don't want to offer anything close to the KBB trade-in value, which is fine. I thank them for their time, and after going through the "wait, my GM wants to talk to you, etc." and them playing "hide the keys" we finally leave.
Salesman calls back a week later, and basically says "we had your trade-in registration stapled to your paperwork and forgot to give it back to you. Can you come back down and get it?"
Of course I don't buy this for a second, they intentionally kept it so I would have to come back (numerous other unsavory tactics when I was there earlier confirm this in my mind). I told them I needed it because I had people looking at the car that upcoming weekend (true) let alone if I get pulled over driving and told them to FedEx it to me, and they said they would. Of course, 2 weeks later I still don't have it. Do I have any recourse here? I am not going to spend 1.5-2 hours of my time and gas driving back there to get my registration back.