If you check the specs on the 2005 Hyundai Tuscon info page, you'll see that each trim level comes in a FWD and 4WD version. For an explanation of the difference bewtween AWD and 4WD, take a look in the 4WD & AWD systems explained discussion.
I'm not sure where to post, so I'll start here. I just purchased a new car in the next state (better deal/selection) and drove it home. I paid with a cashier's check, but I want to make sure I have all my paperwork lined up so I don't run into any hassles trying to register it. How long does it take for the title to arrive?
In order to register the new car in my state, I need 3 things: The vehicle with me at the DMV Signed bill of sale (I have that) Title or certificate of origin
It is the last item that confuses me. I looked through the paperwork I received from the out-of-state dealer, and as far as I could tell, it didn't include a certificate of origin. But, the dealer did say they were sending some docs over to my local DMV.
To further complicate things, the dealer was robbed the next day, and the robbers took the dealer's safe with, you guessed it, the cashier's check I used to pay for the vehicle. Now, the check was made to the dealer, the dealer took possession of the check, provided me with a signed receipt for the check, in addition to the other paperwork I received. So far, I trust the dealership, and have found them to be honest and straight-forward. But, I'm still a bit nervous about this situation. The dealership would like me to cancel the cashier's check, and I'm working with my bank to see what we can do, but I'd feel a lot better with title in hand
So, if anyone has any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it!
I accidentally piggybacked the message below to someone else's thread. How do I create my own in the climate control section?
My 2002 Mazda Protege had air conditioning service done at the dealership just a month ago. More freon was added and the systen was checked for leaks. Besides having to add more freon, the dealership stated there was nothing wrong.
I now notice that when I'm driving, the air seems to lose a bit of pressure and then come back. I notice a slight decrease in temp as well when this happens. Also, while driving, when the air starts acting up, it feels like my car accelerates a slight bit and then goes back to normal. When I'm at idle and I have the air problem, I'll step on the gas and it feels like the car wants to jump out of its body.
The temp isn't what bothers me most, its the slight acceleration then decelaration of the car while driving at a steady speed. Any idea on what this could be? I had someone tell me it could be the compressor.
First, search through the topics in the Mazda Protege group to see whether any fit your issues. If not, then click the "Add a Discussion" link on that page.
I have a question regarding terminating a lease. I have a '04 BMW 530 that comes off lease in November. I have the option to turn it in or lease/finance the remaining ~$30K. With one more child coming, I am considering moving to 6-8 passenger CUV but the models I am interested in ('08 Highlander Hybrid and '09 Pilot) will be released after my lease ends. Am I torn on refinancing the car when I plan on turning it end by mid-year 2008. Any advice or forums to review? thanks in advance for your assistance.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Hello, below I will describe the situation I am in with my Prius and anyone who has advice and information, I welcome your replies!! First, I will just ask the main questions I have in case you don't want o read the whole story:
1) How often does the ECM give false error messages on Priuses?
2) Are the ECMs of Priuses known to go out after their warranty ends around 80,000 miles?
I am the 2nd owner of a 2002 Prius with 88,160 miles. The master warning light of the hybrid system came on the other day. The one with the exclamation mark and that the owner's manual says, "Take immediately to dealership!" I called the dealership and had the car towed in, as per instructions.
They are saying it is the ECM (engine control module) and that in addition to this they must replace the gas tank...they said it was a "no start" code. I asked my husband's father about this and he said the bulletin on this problem is as they are saying...they aren't trying to do unnecessary repairs.
The service shop said it would be $1800. I said, Yikes! I asked them to restart the computer, you know, clear it and see if the problem happened again. They started it three times and I have started it and driven it twice with no problems since.
Thing is, we also asked them if we could get the Toyota rep to comp the part since it is close to the warranty. They said they could do this, making the repairs cost $1100.
So, should we go ahead and get the service done since this may be the cheapest we will be able to get it, considering that there may actually be something wrong with the ECM, it just hasn't happened yet OR should we just wait and have to maybe pay more later, thinking that sometimes the ECM gives false warning messages.
I know that around 30,000 or so miles, the first owner had all the warning lights come on and they just reset the computer and nothing happened after that, but I am not sure of the details of that situation, if that even matters.
Please, any advice/expertise would help! I have no idea what to do!
Oh, and the mileage has been down from around 55 MPG city driving to 40 MPGs. But we have been using the AC and it has been 106 F everyday in Memphis TN lately, making, I thught, the gas burn off faster. However, it may be a problem with the ECM and fuel efficiency of the car...
My son has a 1994 Concorde that has begun cutting off on him. He will be driving when it suddenly cuts off. There will be no warning lights or messages. He said it even restarted itself once after cutting off.
I received the dealer invoice listing for a 2008 Lexus RX350. One of the charges listed under the "subtotal" is "LDA" with an associated price of $582. Does anyone know what "LDA" means?
Are there any special tools needed when doing a break job on a 2004 MVP? I will be changing the Break Pads and Rotors for both front and read wheals. One of my also not so smart buddies said I may need a tool for the Rear Calapers?????? PLEASE HELP
Background: We leased, and paid 100% of the lease up front, on a 2006 Trailblazer in fall of 2005. It turned out to be a lemon and after fighting GM they replaced it in Jan 2006 with another 2006 Trailblazer. A few months ago we moved to another state and are getting ready to turn in the Trailblazer this fall.
Today when my wife goes to get her new plates on the Trailblazer we find out that the Chevy dealer made a mistake and put the title of the replacement Trailblazer in our name, not GMAC, and has was marked as a purchase not lease. We have the title in our name and in our possession that should have gone to GMAC. GMAC has the Trailblazer listed as leased but they do not have any copies of the title. My wife called the dealer and the lady from the title dept told her that the replaced Trailblazer is listed as a purchase not a lease. The dealership asked my wife to mail the title to them they would fix it and get the new title to GMAC.
After everything we went through with this dealer and the lemon I do not trust anyone that works at that place. I am not going to send it in yet. I am thinking about holding out to see what they do... after all I do have the title in my possession and in my name. Thoughts?
Can someone tell what's wrong with my car - the ABS and the BREAK ligth come ON and OFF while driving. The car is still driving very good. Please help me. Thanks...
The laundry list for the US is at the Incentives and Rebates page. There may be some other incentives (armed forces, college grads, etc.) that you can ask about in the Prices Paid board for the make/models you are interested in. That's a good place to ask about specific money factors for leasing too.
And check out the links in the Online Repair Manuals Guide to see if any online repair info is available in your area - I've found lots of free stuff that way for my Nissan.
Living in vietnam and I ordered a 2.4 LE camry from USA , now it is shipping to my home.
Vietnam is so crowded with various kind of transportation on streets, so I think it's easy and comfort to drive a car with auto CVT shift as equipped on 2.4 camry.
Driving manual shift car for years but this is the first time I drive an auto shift one. Does anyone help me using the shift probably and accurately?
When I'm driving the D gear, Do I have to stop before changing to position 3 or 2 or L if ready to get over a bridge or rough roads?
zip 90049. with x-plan anda few options (moon roof,running boards). invoice is 30,200. is this a good price for 07 model? can i use incentives with 0% apr for 48 months? can i get the price down further? first time car buyer!
I am looking to lease a small or midsize SUV. Currently I like the outlander, rav4, rdx, xc90, cx-7, tribeca, etc. With so many choices I am having a hard time making up my mind. I want to keep my payments somewhat low but I also want comfort. I am looking at paying between 300 to 500 a month, 0 down. I would really like to have power seats with memory, bluetooth, automatic AC/lights/wipers, I will also get the tow package so enough power for that will be necessary. I am basically looking for the perfect balance of price vs comfort. I am also considering buying used, probably CPO but leasing looks more attractive to me since I tend to change cars every 2 years or so. Thanks for any advice.
Well since you're not sure about which vehicle it's difficult to point you to a specific discussion. You probably want to look at the various vehicle pricing and leasing discussions in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences group.
While driving my jeep to work; the engine just died on me. No warning light no hesitation. Tried to re start nothing it will only crank over does not kick on. Yes, I have gas. Is there any checks I can do before paying an uncertain amount of money to get it looked at? :confuse:
Ok, here is the deal. I am, today, head to head with a Hyundai manager who is quoting Edmunds! We have made it through the battle of the invoice price and have settled on the price of the car (Sonata '07), but when they faxed their invoice it had a $500 advertising fee (that he RELUCTANTLY) told me what it was, and a $600 freight and Handling fee. He claims he cannot budge on either price and is willing to let me walk (I think). He also said the Edmunds tells buyers that these prices are non negotiatble and to pay them. Not true, but it does say some things cannot be accountable for in the tmv. I was calm, cool, and collected on the phone and told him I would work numbers and call back. I would gladly walk but time is really an issue here and this is the closest dealer within 45 miles. Also, the other dealer is playing other games.
In brief, focus on the price that you want to pay, and don't waste time negotiating the line items. Compare notes with other new owners in the Hyundai Sonata: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
I have a LR3 HSE with 600 miles on it. The audio system and navigation system became inoperable. The trip computer remained functional, but not correctly. This was on Sunday so there was no service at the dealership. On Monday, there was no electic operation at all. The vehicle would not jump start and had to be towed to the dealership. The dealer claims they could jump start the vehicle and everything was working correctly after that. Has anyone had similar system problems, and what happened?
My 1998 Altima has a problem only before it is warmed up. I n the morning before work it starts fine, but as soon as I put it into ether drive or reverse it starts to shudder and stall. It kinda lurches and lugs along for at least a block or two before it clears up.I don't understand why it only happens after it sets all night .Its ok if it only setts for a few hours. We`ve put it into the shop only to have them replace the CV joint and axle assemblies on both sides. They needed it but it did not address the problem .Thay cant seem to figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ron
Comments
For an explanation of the difference bewtween AWD and 4WD, take a look in the 4WD & AWD systems explained discussion.
In order to register the new car in my state, I need 3 things:
The vehicle with me at the DMV
Signed bill of sale (I have that)
Title or certificate of origin
It is the last item that confuses me. I looked through the paperwork I received from the out-of-state dealer, and as far as I could tell, it didn't include a certificate of origin. But, the dealer did say they were sending some docs over to my local DMV.
To further complicate things, the dealer was robbed the next day, and the robbers took the dealer's safe with, you guessed it, the cashier's check I used to pay for the vehicle. Now, the check was made to the dealer, the dealer took possession of the check, provided me with a signed receipt for the check, in addition to the other paperwork I received. So far, I trust the dealership, and have found them to be honest and straight-forward. But, I'm still a bit nervous about this situation. The dealership would like me to cancel the cashier's check, and I'm working with my bank to see what we can do, but I'd feel a lot better with title in hand
So, if anyone has any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it!
thanks!
My 2002 Mazda Protege had air conditioning service done at the dealership just a month ago. More freon was added and the systen was checked for leaks. Besides having to add more freon, the dealership stated there was nothing wrong.
I now notice that when I'm driving, the air seems to lose a bit of pressure and then come back. I notice a slight decrease in temp as well when this happens. Also, while driving, when the air starts acting up, it feels like my car accelerates a slight bit and then goes back to normal. When I'm at idle and I have the air problem, I'll step on the gas and it feels like the car wants to jump out of its body.
The temp isn't what bothers me most, its the slight acceleration then decelaration of the car while driving at a steady speed. Any idea on what this could be? I had someone tell me it could be the compressor.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
1) How often does the ECM give false error messages on Priuses?
2) Are the ECMs of Priuses known to go out after their warranty ends around 80,000 miles?
I am the 2nd owner of a 2002 Prius with 88,160 miles. The master warning light of the hybrid system came on the other day. The one with the exclamation mark and that the owner's manual says, "Take immediately to dealership!" I called the dealership and had the car towed in, as per instructions.
They are saying it is the ECM (engine control module) and that in addition to this they must replace the gas tank...they said it was a "no start" code. I asked my husband's father about this and he said the bulletin on this problem is as they are saying...they aren't trying to do unnecessary repairs.
The service shop said it would be $1800. I said, Yikes! I asked them to restart the computer, you know, clear it and see if the problem happened again. They started it three times and I have started it and driven it twice with no problems since.
Thing is, we also asked them if we could get the Toyota rep to comp the part since it is close to the warranty. They said they could do this, making the repairs cost $1100.
So, should we go ahead and get the service done since this may be the cheapest we will be able to get it, considering that there may actually be something wrong with the ECM, it just hasn't happened yet OR should we just wait and have to maybe pay more later, thinking that sometimes the ECM gives false warning messages.
I know that around 30,000 or so miles, the first owner had all the warning lights come on and they just reset the computer and nothing happened after that, but I am not sure of the details of that situation, if that even matters.
Please, any advice/expertise would help! I have no idea what to do!
Oh, and the mileage has been down from around 55 MPG city driving to 40 MPGs. But we have been using the AC and it has been 106 F everyday in Memphis TN lately, making, I thught, the gas burn off faster. However, it may be a problem with the ECM and fuel efficiency of the car...
Check out the Toyota Prius group. There should be a few discussions there that you may be interested in posting in.
BMW 3-Series: FAQ
BMW 335i 2007+
Someone in one of those discussions should know.. (I'm guessing Alpine).
regards,
kyfdx
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
The Out The Door (OTD) Pricing questions discussion may be of interest too.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Are there any special tools needed when doing a break job on a 2004 MVP? I will be changing the Break Pads and Rotors for both front and read wheals. One of my also not so smart buddies said I may need a tool for the Rear Calapers?????? PLEASE HELP
Today when my wife goes to get her new plates on the Trailblazer we find out that the Chevy dealer made a mistake and put the title of the replacement Trailblazer in our name, not GMAC, and has was marked as a purchase not lease. We have the title in our name and in our possession that should have gone to GMAC. GMAC has the Trailblazer listed as leased but they do not have any copies of the title. My wife called the dealer and the lady from the title dept told her that the replaced Trailblazer is listed as a purchase not a lease. The dealership asked my wife to mail the title to them they would fix it and get the new title to GMAC.
After everything we went through with this dealer and the lemon I do not trust anyone that works at that place. I am not going to send it in yet. I am thinking about holding out to see what they do... after all I do have the title in my possession and in my name. Thoughts?
Thanks
I would prefer not to buy a manual. I read the Haynes and it seemed a bit confusing...
Try asking for help in the Blazer/Jimmy Brake Problems discussion. The Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair discussion would be a place to ask about the jack points.
And check out the links in the Online Repair Manuals Guide to see if any online repair info is available in your area - I've found lots of free stuff that way for my Nissan.
Vietnam is so crowded with various kind of transportation on streets, so I think it's easy and comfort to drive a car with auto CVT shift as equipped on 2.4 camry.
Driving manual shift car for years but this is the first time I drive an auto shift one. Does anyone help me using the shift probably and accurately?
When I'm driving the D gear, Do I have to stop before changing to position 3 or 2 or L if ready to get over a bridge or rough roads?
Thanks in advance!
Ford Explorer Group
Don't know if any dealer would write anything like that. You may want to read through our Owe more than it's worth... I'm upside down and I can't get up! discussion.
kcram - Pickups Host
I am basically looking for the perfect balance of price vs comfort. I am also considering buying used, probably CPO but leasing looks more attractive to me since I tend to change cars every 2 years or so.
Thanks for any advice.
For general discussion of leasing try General Questions about Leasing Vehicles
JGC Idle and Stall Problems
What do you think? Thank you for your time.
In brief, focus on the price that you want to pay, and don't waste time negotiating the line items. Compare notes with other new owners in the Hyundai Sonata: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
Oops... that one must have been hiding from me. Thanks.
I was wondering were to get the list of codes.
Thank You.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Ron