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Where can I seek forum help?
Thanks!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I don't know in which forum to post this question.
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
but i do not see a "Post New Topic" button anywhere...
Here's the Help link for creating a new discussion on the rest of the site.
Often you get better results in an existing discussion though. For your email quote question, I recommend one of the Prices Paid discussions, like the Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience one.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I am looking to buy a car, but the dealer will not let me take the car to my mechanic for inspection because the shop is located too far from the dealership(30miles) and his insurance policy will not cover the car in case of an accident.
He says he will let me take it to an inspection in a 5 mile radius.
Is this a common, true dealer policy?
Best,
P.
However, are you talking about a NEW car or a USED car?
I'm not sure how necessary it is to have a BRAND NEW car inspected by a mechanic. Getting a good checklist and a friend, doing an inspection yourself before taking delivery, being under a brand-new car warranty and have a some type of money-back return period for the vehicle would seem acceptable. After which you could take it anywhere in the world you wanted to have it inspected.
Also look into Lemon Laws for your state.
I never planned to have my upcoming brand new vehicle purchase inspected by a mechanic but I also know quite a bit about cars so I intend to do a pre-delivery inspection on the vehicle which a good checklist, flashlight and possibly my friend.
On top of that the vehicle I am purchasing comes with an optional 60-day Money Back Guarantee. If I choose to participate in this Money Back Guarantee Program, I can bring the vehicle back anytime between days 31-60 after I take delivery for ANY REASON. However, if I opt-out of the program I get a $500 rebate which I can apply towards the purchase price of the car. Right now I am planning to opt-out.
My advice is if the car is USED, please do have it inspected by a certified independent mechanic or shop. Also get a CarFax/Vehicle History report.
My advice is if the car is NEW is if you really want this car, test drive it thoroughly, see if Lemon Laws will protect your particular purchase, make note of your warranty and request a complimentary pre-delivery oil-change. Do these items to help calculate your true potential risk that this car could give you problem(s) that you could be financially liable for. All that in addition or substitution to paying to have the car inspected...
Or if you know the mechanic personally, you could ask him to come inspect the vehicle on-site...
It is an used car. The dealer offers 3000miles/3month warranty. The reason I am uncertain is also because the car is $2000 below its blue book value. The Carfax report came back clean.
Thank you for any feedback.
Best,
P.
Jack
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Of course, you forgot the spare....
Full: Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires
or
Compact: Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
And the throttle bodies of that era are very weak. I think the injectors that sit in the middle stick, etc. But, I think there are updated injectors available that work much better.
I really don't know much about TBs, but this is what I think I remember about them.
I have a 2003 Explorer. I had the brakes done not long ago and had the tie rod ends ball joints etc replaced. I now need to have the struts shox springs etc. replaced. are there any experts here who can give me some advice on which parts have proven to be the best ??
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Right now I only have about 16K miles on the car. I know ending a lease early would usually involve heavy penalties. However, I was just wondering if a leased car with low miles would be something that the dealer would feel is to their advantage to take back and not charge the penalties?
Many thanks for all your responses.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
And stop yelling.
The costs I got from CCC are:
Wholesale: $16,435.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 17,855.00
MSRP: 17,450.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 18,870.00
This is where I get totally confused. The dealer has that same amount of 1320.00 as administration fees.
Do I figure out what I'm willing to pay based on the the wholesale price minus the freight/admin fee? Is the admin fee mandatory.
There really isn't much wiggle room here. The difference between the wholesale and MSRP (without admin/freight) is only 1015.00.
From everything I've been reading, the dealer usually tries to get 10% profit. Is the admin/freight part of their profit?
Of course tax would be on top of whatever price I negotiate.
There is a $750.00 cash back offer until Nov 30. I'm not sure if the cash back is calculated before or after tax in BC.
What would be a reasonable offer and what should I make sure I ask? Is a certified cheque the best way to go if you're going to pay with cash?
We also have a 1991 Ford Aerostar that we want to get rid of. I don't know if the dealer will give anything for it, but I really don't want to have to sell it privately...too much hassle.
Thanks for any help/advice.
The Toyota Matrix Prices Paid and Buying Experience may help too, although it's centered on US deals.
How do I start my own thread?
If you're looking for a particular subject, you can always use the search feature. In your case, "finance" would have found some great existing topics.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Will
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Many of the vehicle specific discussions here have Bluetooth specific topics.
So, if you have a Honda SUV, you could get help in the Honda CR-V Stereo, iPod, CD, Bluetooth, Sat. Ditto for a Volkswagen Golf, for example. Try a search in the box on the right sidebar for Bluetooth to see the whole laundry list.
Thanks for your help!
You may find BUYING TIPS to be an interesting discussion on this subject. "
Many thanks and happy holidays.
regards,
kyfdx
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I'm thinking about leasing a vehicle for the first time and and wanted to negotiate 18,000 miles/yr up front. Assuming I figure out which car I want and then negotiate a selling price, then what? It may be hard to compare offers from various dealers since the high mileage is somewhat unusual.
Is the MF negotiable as well? I don't want to negotiate a great price on the sale only to get killed on the MF or RV.
Thought I asked this somewhere but couldn't find my original post...
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was searching for the AWD/4wd/FWD explained thread in the Edmunds forums and could not find it.Can you you please provide me that link or thread??
Thanks.