Im curious what forum to ask this. Ive got a scenario where I traded in a leased vehicle, and the dealership had a clerical error and now (almost a week after all the paperwork was signed, etc. and I drove home with my new car) they want me to come back, tear up the paperwork, and pay over a thousand dollars more.
I have money in hand, ready to buy a Nissan cube Krom and my dealer was supposedly getting one from another deal because he didn't have any on his lot. This was three weeks ago and every deal he keeps making with other dealers "falls apart". I'm getting very impatient. Are the Nissan cube Krom's really that hard to find????? I don't know in which forum to post this question. Thanks
If you are trying to start a new discussion over in the Prices Paid forum so you can talk about email quotes from dealers (similar to your Edmunds Answers question), a few boards (Smart Shopper, Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences, and Maintenance & Repair) won't let you create a new discussion.
Here's the Help link for creating a new discussion on the rest of the site.
Often you get better results in an existing discussion though. For your email quote question, I recommend one of the Prices Paid discussions, like the Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience one.
Is there an automotive magazine or news service that regularly updates incentives, purchase financing, lease money factors, and lease residuals for all makes and model in one location? I know that sometimes this information is posted on this site or than one can ask questions.
I am looking to buy a car, but the dealer will not let me take the car to my mechanic for inspection because the shop is located too far from the dealership(30miles) and his insurance policy will not cover the car in case of an accident.
He says he will let me take it to an inspection in a 5 mile radius.
However, are you talking about a NEW car or a USED car?
I'm not sure how necessary it is to have a BRAND NEW car inspected by a mechanic. Getting a good checklist and a friend, doing an inspection yourself before taking delivery, being under a brand-new car warranty and have a some type of money-back return period for the vehicle would seem acceptable. After which you could take it anywhere in the world you wanted to have it inspected.
Also look into Lemon Laws for your state.
I never planned to have my upcoming brand new vehicle purchase inspected by a mechanic but I also know quite a bit about cars so I intend to do a pre-delivery inspection on the vehicle which a good checklist, flashlight and possibly my friend.
On top of that the vehicle I am purchasing comes with an optional 60-day Money Back Guarantee. If I choose to participate in this Money Back Guarantee Program, I can bring the vehicle back anytime between days 31-60 after I take delivery for ANY REASON. However, if I opt-out of the program I get a $500 rebate which I can apply towards the purchase price of the car. Right now I am planning to opt-out.
My advice is if the car is USED, please do have it inspected by a certified independent mechanic or shop. Also get a CarFax/Vehicle History report.
My advice is if the car is NEW is if you really want this car, test drive it thoroughly, see if Lemon Laws will protect your particular purchase, make note of your warranty and request a complimentary pre-delivery oil-change. Do these items to help calculate your true potential risk that this car could give you problem(s) that you could be financially liable for. All that in addition or substitution to paying to have the car inspected...
Or if you know the mechanic personally, you could ask him to come inspect the vehicle on-site...
It is an used car. The dealer offers 3000miles/3month warranty. The reason I am uncertain is also because the car is $2000 below its blue book value. The Carfax report came back clean.
I just bought a 1991 Lexus LS400 and the heater controls won't blend any heat in the mix. The car has sat for approx 3 1/2 years and the previous owner claims the car produced heat when last used. I have ran the digital numbers in the heater control from 65 to whatever the highest number is and nothing but ambient temperature air. I went under the hood and manually moved the heater control valve and although both heater hoses were hot, none of it was coming out in the interior. The other controls seem to do what they were designed for with fan speeds, defroster mode and switching from floor to vents to defrost. The A/C is discharged but that will be another issue to check out when time allows. Right now with winter coming up, the heater will be the priority here in Ohio. Have checked coolant level, feel test on both heater hoses, changed position of heater control valve arm and ran thru all other functions of climate control options. Jack
One simple thing it could be is the external temperature sensor. In my RX300 it was reading wacky values (in the 140 plus or minus 30) so the computer thought it was really hot outside and would attempt to never let any heat to me. My external sensor was in the front bumper. Pull off the old and plug in the new and problem solved for me.
I put "tires and balance" into the search engine and came up empty...of course...why didn't I think of that???...except that, since I have four of them, shouldn't the topic be named "Tires, tires, tires & tires?"
Very sorry if I did. I posted with the title, "We need 2 new cars - please help" in hatchback discussions. But that might not be correct. Please advise.
Hi i just bought a 91 camaro rs 305 and it drove fine for an hour then i turned it off and back on and alot of fuel is being dumoed onto the butterfly valves and the car just shuts off within a couple of seconds, the throttle body also makes a loud hissing noise but another time i started her up ttheir wasnt as much fuel on top and the noise was gone but the car shut right back off....if you could give me any advice that would be greatly appreciated. thnx joey
Isn't that a throttle body setup? And the throttle bodies of that era are very weak. I think the injectors that sit in the middle stick, etc. But, I think there are updated injectors available that work much better.
I really don't know much about TBs, but this is what I think I remember about them.
Hello and thanks for allowing me access to your forums. I have a 2003 Explorer. I had the brakes done not long ago and had the tie rod ends ball joints etc replaced. I now need to have the struts shox springs etc. replaced. are there any experts here who can give me some advice on which parts have proven to be the best ??
I currently have 12 months left in a 36 month lease with 15K mi per year allowed. Right now I only have about 16K miles on the car. I know ending a lease early would usually involve heavy penalties. However, I was just wondering if a leased car with low miles would be something that the dealer would feel is to their advantage to take back and not charge the penalties?
I would not recommend terminating a lease, but rather doing a pay off. It depends on what the current payoff is on the lease and the wholesale value of the vehicle. I would call the lease company and get a complete payoff. Then post the details of your vehicle in the Real World Trade In Values to get a wholesale value. That will show how much you are off. Typically the wholesale value is less than the payoff, but you never know. It all depends on the vehicle you have leased and the demand on the vehicle.
MSRP $38,880.00, INCENTIVES $7,500.00, TRADE IN $1,000.00, ANOTHER $500.00 OFF BY FARM BUREAU MEMBERSHIP. PAID $28,254.00. PAID OVER 35% DOWN. WASN'T ASKED ABOUT $500.00 CASHBACK OR 60 DAY RETURN. COULD IT HAD BEEN INCLUDED WITH THE INCENTIVES?
We've decided to go with the Matrix and I'll be emailing the sales dept today.
The costs I got from CCC are: Wholesale: $16,435.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 17,855.00
MSRP: 17,450.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 18,870.00
This is where I get totally confused. The dealer has that same amount of 1320.00 as administration fees.
Do I figure out what I'm willing to pay based on the the wholesale price minus the freight/admin fee? Is the admin fee mandatory.
There really isn't much wiggle room here. The difference between the wholesale and MSRP (without admin/freight) is only 1015.00.
From everything I've been reading, the dealer usually tries to get 10% profit. Is the admin/freight part of their profit?
Of course tax would be on top of whatever price I negotiate.
There is a $750.00 cash back offer until Nov 30. I'm not sure if the cash back is calculated before or after tax in BC.
What would be a reasonable offer and what should I make sure I ask? Is a certified cheque the best way to go if you're going to pay with cash?
We also have a 1991 Ford Aerostar that we want to get rid of. I don't know if the dealer will give anything for it, but I really don't want to have to sell it privately...too much hassle.
On most boards, there's an "add a discussion" link. Where you posted, there's not, because we were getting a lot of different threads with similar questions, so the information was spread out too much. You posted in a good place, and people have responded.
If you're looking for a particular subject, you can always use the search feature. In your case, "finance" would have found some great existing topics.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
My 2007 Honda Accord lease is almost up. What should I lease? I am about 3k over my mileage but not really that big of deal. There are so many good deals on Acura, BMW, Mercedes, Lexus, Honda and more....I am leaning to BMW just becuase it includes all the service.....Can anyone help me with this decision? Stick with Acura just because it is easy since I am already with Honda Finance??
Last Friday, my girlfriend called me when I was driving on the road. I knew that using cellphone while driving is illegal, but that call was from my sweetie. Suddenly, a drunk rushed across the road, I instinctively turned the steering wheel ... My car almost ran into a lamp pole. I really want to kill that bugger! Horrible!!! I think I need a bluetooth hand-free kit. I wonder if any dude here can tell me where I can get a cheap bluetooth hand-free kit. I hope guys who have ever bought bluetooth hand-free kit respond!
Looking to purchase a slightly used vehicle for my wife. She's getting impatient, but I'm wondering if waiting two weeks, until the calendar hits 2010 will save me a few hundred to few thousand dollars as they cars become another "year" old.
First time lease - maybe, I understand the general comments on no money down and the reason behind that but what about trade in's. Does the same apply. I have about $8k value in a my current vehicle. Many thanks and happy holidays.
Not sure where this belongs as it seems most of the topics are vehicle specific.
I'm thinking about leasing a vehicle for the first time and and wanted to negotiate 18,000 miles/yr up front. Assuming I figure out which car I want and then negotiate a selling price, then what? It may be hard to compare offers from various dealers since the high mileage is somewhat unusual. Is the MF negotiable as well? I don't want to negotiate a great price on the sale only to get killed on the MF or RV.
Thought I asked this somewhere but couldn't find my original post...
Hi, I was searching for the AWD/4wd/FWD explained thread in the Edmunds forums and could not find it.Can you you please provide me that link or thread?? Thanks.
Comments
Where can I seek forum help?
Thanks!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I don't know in which forum to post this question.
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
but i do not see a "Post New Topic" button anywhere...
Here's the Help link for creating a new discussion on the rest of the site.
Often you get better results in an existing discussion though. For your email quote question, I recommend one of the Prices Paid discussions, like the Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience one.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I am looking to buy a car, but the dealer will not let me take the car to my mechanic for inspection because the shop is located too far from the dealership(30miles) and his insurance policy will not cover the car in case of an accident.
He says he will let me take it to an inspection in a 5 mile radius.
Is this a common, true dealer policy?
Best,
P.
However, are you talking about a NEW car or a USED car?
I'm not sure how necessary it is to have a BRAND NEW car inspected by a mechanic. Getting a good checklist and a friend, doing an inspection yourself before taking delivery, being under a brand-new car warranty and have a some type of money-back return period for the vehicle would seem acceptable. After which you could take it anywhere in the world you wanted to have it inspected.
Also look into Lemon Laws for your state.
I never planned to have my upcoming brand new vehicle purchase inspected by a mechanic but I also know quite a bit about cars so I intend to do a pre-delivery inspection on the vehicle which a good checklist, flashlight and possibly my friend.
On top of that the vehicle I am purchasing comes with an optional 60-day Money Back Guarantee. If I choose to participate in this Money Back Guarantee Program, I can bring the vehicle back anytime between days 31-60 after I take delivery for ANY REASON. However, if I opt-out of the program I get a $500 rebate which I can apply towards the purchase price of the car. Right now I am planning to opt-out.
My advice is if the car is USED, please do have it inspected by a certified independent mechanic or shop. Also get a CarFax/Vehicle History report.
My advice is if the car is NEW is if you really want this car, test drive it thoroughly, see if Lemon Laws will protect your particular purchase, make note of your warranty and request a complimentary pre-delivery oil-change. Do these items to help calculate your true potential risk that this car could give you problem(s) that you could be financially liable for. All that in addition or substitution to paying to have the car inspected...
Or if you know the mechanic personally, you could ask him to come inspect the vehicle on-site...
It is an used car. The dealer offers 3000miles/3month warranty. The reason I am uncertain is also because the car is $2000 below its blue book value. The Carfax report came back clean.
Thank you for any feedback.
Best,
P.
Jack
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Of course, you forgot the spare....
Full: Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires
or
Compact: Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires, Tires
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
And the throttle bodies of that era are very weak. I think the injectors that sit in the middle stick, etc. But, I think there are updated injectors available that work much better.
I really don't know much about TBs, but this is what I think I remember about them.
I have a 2003 Explorer. I had the brakes done not long ago and had the tie rod ends ball joints etc replaced. I now need to have the struts shox springs etc. replaced. are there any experts here who can give me some advice on which parts have proven to be the best ??
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Right now I only have about 16K miles on the car. I know ending a lease early would usually involve heavy penalties. However, I was just wondering if a leased car with low miles would be something that the dealer would feel is to their advantage to take back and not charge the penalties?
Many thanks for all your responses.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
And stop yelling.
The costs I got from CCC are:
Wholesale: $16,435.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 17,855.00
MSRP: 17,450.00 + freight of 1320.00 = 18,870.00
This is where I get totally confused. The dealer has that same amount of 1320.00 as administration fees.
Do I figure out what I'm willing to pay based on the the wholesale price minus the freight/admin fee? Is the admin fee mandatory.
There really isn't much wiggle room here. The difference between the wholesale and MSRP (without admin/freight) is only 1015.00.
From everything I've been reading, the dealer usually tries to get 10% profit. Is the admin/freight part of their profit?
Of course tax would be on top of whatever price I negotiate.
There is a $750.00 cash back offer until Nov 30. I'm not sure if the cash back is calculated before or after tax in BC.
What would be a reasonable offer and what should I make sure I ask? Is a certified cheque the best way to go if you're going to pay with cash?
We also have a 1991 Ford Aerostar that we want to get rid of. I don't know if the dealer will give anything for it, but I really don't want to have to sell it privately...too much hassle.
Thanks for any help/advice.
The Toyota Matrix Prices Paid and Buying Experience may help too, although it's centered on US deals.
How do I start my own thread?
If you're looking for a particular subject, you can always use the search feature. In your case, "finance" would have found some great existing topics.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Will
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Many of the vehicle specific discussions here have Bluetooth specific topics.
So, if you have a Honda SUV, you could get help in the Honda CR-V Stereo, iPod, CD, Bluetooth, Sat. Ditto for a Volkswagen Golf, for example. Try a search in the box on the right sidebar for Bluetooth to see the whole laundry list.
Thanks for your help!
You may find BUYING TIPS to be an interesting discussion on this subject. "
Many thanks and happy holidays.
regards,
kyfdx
Host-Prices Paid Forums
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Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I'm thinking about leasing a vehicle for the first time and and wanted to negotiate 18,000 miles/yr up front. Assuming I figure out which car I want and then negotiate a selling price, then what? It may be hard to compare offers from various dealers since the high mileage is somewhat unusual.
Is the MF negotiable as well? I don't want to negotiate a great price on the sale only to get killed on the MF or RV.
Thought I asked this somewhere but couldn't find my original post...
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was searching for the AWD/4wd/FWD explained thread in the Edmunds forums and could not find it.Can you you please provide me that link or thread??
Thanks.