How do you delete a empty album on carspace??? I have one album that I screwed up and has no pics in it and want to delete it. I wished there was a delete button but it brings me to this weird page instead of giving me the option. :confuse: I think one of you hosts had to delete it for me in the past. Thanks, Rocky
On your CarSpace main page in your photo album section there's a Manage Albums link. Click on that and then click on the album in question. Once you're in the album you'll see the Album Manager section. The Delete Album link is the last link in that section.
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This is what I get when clicking on that empty album to delete thus it won't allow me to delete a empty album. I had this problem a few years ago. I know you probably don't remember but I did.
Thanks for the advice but it didn't work. It just swallowed the picture and when I clicked on the album there was no phot and brought me to the page above. :sick:
Hi all, love these forums! we've got to help our son with buying his first car and we've been researching which are the best hybrid small SUVs. Safety, reliability and value for money are important to us. We own a Lexus 400h but that is out of his price league. The brake issues on the Ford Escape hybrid scare us. Do you all have an opinion! thanks tons!
...buy him a cheap crappy car, since he will likely ruin it anyway! :sick:
Seriously, a smaller more manageable car is more prudent for less experienced drivers. It does not have to be a hybrid to be environmentally sound. May I suggest a Honda Fit, Scion xD, Hyundai Elantra, or Mazda 3? All are nice cars which get over 30MPG. Good luck!
I am buying a used car for the first time and I am looking for some insight as to what to look out for. Can you direct me anywhere? I have read all the tips and advice on the edmunds site...
Hello, Sorry I am not sure if this is the best place to post this question, but couldn't find any better place to ask. I am pretty new to the auto world and certainly to purchasing/leasing a new vehicle. I am currently considering lease a car. I noticed websites like leasetrade.com, leasetrader.com and swapalease.com which offer me to get into the middle of a current lease. This seems like a very good idea (price-wise), as I get to skip the down payment, part of the monthly payments, and also I get the option of purchasing the vehicle at the end which is usually pretty good (I think?). So why not do it!? Am I missing something here? Are there any particular cons in getting a car from those channels? I really appreciate any help.
Thanks for the reply! Well I checked it out and there seems to be no specific forums dedicated to lease swapping. There were a few questions/comments/warnings in that forum but that was it. It might be useful to have one just for lease swapping, but I don't know how much interest is in that subject...
Hi. I am in the position where I will soon need to purchase another car. My beat up 2001 Honda Accord is turning 125,000 miles and the transmission is slipping. So, I have about $13,000 - 15,000 to spend. I will need a car that is large enough to seat two adults and a car seat in the back for short distances. I don't really care too much about aesthetics like leather seats or anything (although a CD player would be nice), but it will have to be reliable and not guzzle too much gas. I also want an automatic transmission. I live in Kansas City so it will have to weather the snow and rain okay, too. I have no idea where to start and have looked at everything from older BMWs to newer Hyundai Sonatas.
And there are lots of "Buying a Used _______" discussions so if you narrow your search down to one make/model, try the Search Forums box on the right sidebar to see if there's a topic about it.
I am looking at a 2007 Miata on the dealers lot. It has 137 miles and the warranty will be in full force once it is sold. How do I figure out the TMV of the car since it is new but also old?
You treat it like a 2007 used car with low miles because the minute you drive it away, that's what it's going to be worth, more or less....top dollar retail for a 2007 Miata. It really can't be any other way, because if you priced it higher someone would just buy the 2009 model instead.
I was involved in an auto accident last week with an uninsured motorist. Other driver changed lane without noticing me on the blind side and she hit me on the driver side. My car is 02 Camry with 100K miles on it, the damage is mainly on the left front end (Fender, bumper, LT lamp). The estimate I got from different bodyshops near my area are ranging from $1800 (Toyota) - $2600(Ford). I have $1000 deductible, so I have to pay the first $1000 from my pocket and the insurance company pays the rest. Insurance company's adjuster appraised the car and he estimated the damage worth $2200 and he gave me a check for $1200. I also work for an insurance company and I met this man there and he does auto repairing at his home, he works on claims sections in our company. He said he can fix everything for $1000 and assured to use OEM parts. So now I am in dilema to proceed with this guy from our company or go to toyota to get it fixed. If I go with my colleage I will gain $200 but I dont have any idea about the outcome of the work. If I got to toyota I will loose $600 from my pocket and I am sure I will get a quality outcome. So my question is, is it worth putting $600 on car that is having 100K miles and 7 yrs old. Appreciate your suggestions.
Personally, I would use an independent body shop with a good reputation first, and a dealer body shop second. Both will guarantee their work in writing. I would never allow "backyard body work" on my vehicle.
I agree with kcram as far as never trusting backyard mechanics.
I would also strongly recommend you take the other motorist to small claims court for the $600 you are out by having it fixed at Toyota (or wherever you end up going)
So sorry to hear about your accident, but at least you are okay.
To answer your immediate question, it is worth it to fix the car.
I have a "general question". When I car company has a "low interest" rate does the dealer participate in the price? In other words, how much does it cost the dealer when he does a "MSRP" sale of a new car at zero interest?
I was shopping for a Honda today and a dealership wanted to sell me a "new" car that already had 190 miles on it. They claim it was a trade with another dealership that was driven here from another state. Is this normal practice? Or is this car basically a demo/test drive car that has been driven hard? Advice, please!
Try checking the window sticker tag to see which dealer the car was originally shipped to for sale. I know two years ago when I last bought a car the original receiving dealer's name was clearly printed on the window sticker. I bought a "new" car with 99 miles on it as it was a trade from a dealer about 90 miles away.
My current lease on a 2008 Nissan Sentra SL is ending in December '09 and because I now have 2 kids, I wanted to upgrade to a minivan. I currently pay $199 a month and wanted to keep my monthly payments for a minivan within reason...say not over $300/month. Went to a Nissan dealership recently and they told me Nissan Quest leases for about $500/month which is way too much for me...which minivan should I go with to keep my monthly payments in my range??
The best value for your money, by far, is going to be the Kia Sedona. Starting in 2006 the redesign is very nice and customer satisfaction is way up. I never planned on purchasing a Kia but my whole family loves the van. You could pick up a slightly used one for cheap! Like 12-14 K and still with a 60k 5 year b to b warranty. This in my opinion is your best bet. I don't know what the lease rates are but I can't image much over $300 a month for a 36 month lease.
Hi, I initially bought an extended warranty for my new vehicle, but then later decided to cancel the contract because it adds up too much debt. I went to the dealership to cancel the contract, and waited for almost a month to see if they had cancelled it or not. Apparently not, so I contacted the dealership again, and they keep redirecting me everywhere and I ended up either having no one to answer or "your financing officer is not here for today" and some other excuses. I'm wondering what actions can I take to push them to do something about my cancellation of the warranty and if they still do not comply, what legal actions can I take? What government agencies or organizations I can look to to help me file this claim?
You probably want to stop by the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Board. Look through the discussions for the minivan makes/models you're interested in, and you'll get a good idea of what others have paid recently.
Send this question to the Got a Quick Question for a Car Dealer? discussion, and you should get some good advice. I would also recommend contacting the extended warranty provider directly for assistance... if it's a factory/manufacturer plan, this should be pretty easy.
I am not a leasing specialist, and I don't know the state you live in, but you gave just enough information to be confusing...to wit:
"I am return my leased minivan to Nissan - due 9/18.
My vehicle registration is due and up for renewal in August.
Can I turn the vehicle in w/o renewing my registration?"
Your lease is up on Sept 18, and your registration is due in August...were you implying that you would turn in the vehicle early so as to avoid having to pay registration for another year???
If you turn the car in before the registration is due, I would assume that you do not have to renew the registration...if you keep the car until Sept 18, you run the risk of driving on an expired license plate, which, here is Georgia, can be expensive if you are ticketed...
Here in GA, if you renew the registration and turn in the car the following month, I believe that registration fee (actually, here it is called an ad valorem fee, as we pay a tax on the value of the vehicle, a tax which goes down every year as the vehicle depreciates) will actually carry over to your next vehicle for the next 11 months, assuming that you purchase another vehicle to replace the leased vehicle...
This is my first post, and I'm not exactly sure of which thread this is most applicable, and which would get the most traffic. If someone can redirect it, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. ============== What should my strategy be? - cash payment - no good at haggling, no time for games - timing – test drive, rebates, demand surge from cash for clunkers
Hi, everyone. I believe the answer I’m seeking doesn’t apply to any one brand. I’ve also read the car-buying strategy guide, but am not sure how certain things apply to me and the current times.
I’m in the NY metro area, never bought or owned my own car, and have gotten by without a car for several years now, but I’m going to need one within the next couple of months (would’ve preferred to have had one a few months ago, but I’ve gotten by). I’m also in the beginning stages of buying a house.
I wish to pay for my car (Corolla / Civic / Mazda 3) in *cash*, and since I’ll be applying for a mortgage soon, I’d strongly prefer that my credit not be checked by the dealer lest such an inquiry lower my score.
And since I don’t have time for the usual car-buying games that I hear about, or that much willpower in terms of haggling, I’m tempted to go the fixed price route to buy (e.g., carmax, AAA, Costco). Although I won’t get the absolute best deal, would this be a reasonable option for my situation?
Alternatively, I can pit dealers against each other through the internet as is commonly recommended, but then a few other questions arise - If I play the strategy by-the-book and wait until the last possible minute to say that it’s a cash purchase, is it likely that the price originally quoted won’t be honored since it might assume a profit off financing that won't happen? I’d hate to waste time pursuing an unrealistic deal. - The test drive - The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering. I’d hate to go through the trouble of a bidding war only to test drive it and learn that it drives like a shopping cart. I’m not sure when to do the test drive. I’m afraid that if I just walk in and ask for one, that that sales person would be the one handling my sale and not the internet person, who seems to be more willing to negotiate.
I suppose I could find a dealership that I have virtually no interest in buying from to do it, but the steering issues seem to occur at highway speeds, and this place isn’t anywhere near where I’d be able to do even 55 mph.
Lastly, I’ve had trouble timing this whole thing. I first decided on the Corolla at the very end of June, when they were giving $500 cash back on the ‘10’s. There’s no way I would’ve had my finances in order to complete a purchase by the time that offer expired, so I waited out the unimpressive July deals and now I’m stuck in August. This cash-for-clunkers thing has really put me in a bind. I’m not sure if cash-back rebates are typically only for those who finance with the car company. If they are, then that won’t factor too much into the timing (meaning I wasted a month for nothing) . But, with the surge in demand for compact cars, I have much less negotiating power than I did just two weeks ago. And, there aren’t even rebates on the ‘09’s anymore. Should I wait all this out – maybe even until the ‘10’ Civics come out, or should I just get this purchase over with knowing that the market may be recovering?
OK, I’ve analyzed this to death. If anyone has any ideas to share, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Hey I'm from New York. I want to sell my vehicle and I have done some online research on what I would need to do step by step. I learned that I need to have both parties fill out a Bill of Sales as well as form DTF-802 - statement of transaction before I transfer the title.
I have a few questions:
I know I have to take the plates off of the car, but what do I do about the window sticker that has the registration expiration date on it?
With the tax form, do both parties pay tax on the transaction or just one (seller? buyer?)
When I turn over the title, I know i should sign it and date it and record the odometer reading on the back, is that all I do there?
Thank you very much for your help, as you can tell, i have not done anything like that before and I thought it would be smart to ask. Thanks again
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This is what I get when clicking on that empty album to delete
-Rocky
Back out, maybe shut Edmunds down totally, then come back in and see if you can delete it.
Programmers never find that last bug in a program.
-Rocky
Try posting your question there!
regards,
kyfdx
Host-Prices Paid Forums
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Seriously, a smaller more manageable car is more prudent for less experienced drivers. It does not have to be a hybrid to be environmentally sound. May I suggest a Honda Fit, Scion xD, Hyundai Elantra, or Mazda 3? All are nice cars which get over 30MPG. Good luck!
I say "my", but it's a bunch of tips gathered from other forum members.
There's a lot of discussions here that start out "Buying a Used" - Murano/Accord/A4, etc. Try a search for them.
The granddaddy discussion would be Purchasing Used Vehicles.
Sorry I am not sure if this is the best place to post this question, but couldn't find any better place to ask.
I am pretty new to the auto world and certainly to purchasing/leasing a new vehicle. I am currently considering lease a car. I noticed websites like leasetrade.com, leasetrader.com and swapalease.com which offer me to get into the middle of a current lease. This seems like a very good idea (price-wise), as I get to skip the down payment, part of the monthly payments, and also I get the option of purchasing the vehicle at the end which is usually pretty good (I think?). So why not do it!? Am I missing something here? Are there any particular cons in getting a car from those channels? I really appreciate any help.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I opened up a new discussion. You can find it here: Lease Swapping Questions and Answers
Let's see how it goes!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks for any and all recommendations.
Low End Sedans (under $16k)
And while you're in the Sedans board, scan the list. There are some other discussions there that may help you narrow your choices down.
Here's another discussion that may help:
Purchasing Used Vehicles
And there are lots of "Buying a Used _______" discussions so if you narrow your search down to one make/model, try the Search Forums box on the right sidebar to see if there's a topic about it.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Personally, I would use an independent body shop with a good reputation first, and a dealer body shop second. Both will guarantee their work in writing. I would never allow "backyard body work" on my vehicle.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
I would also strongly recommend you take the other motorist to small claims court for the $600 you are out by having it fixed at Toyota (or wherever you end up going)
So sorry to hear about your accident, but at least you are okay.
To answer your immediate question, it is worth it to fix the car.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
A discussion thread here is just a post that takes off on another course or angle.
If you want to start a whole new discussion, that's easy too. The Help link explains it better than I can.
Please reply if you get stuck.
Is there a forum where somebody lists and updates the rebates for the various auto's? If so can I have the address of the site?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was shopping for a Honda today and a dealership wanted to sell me a "new" car that already had 190 miles on it. They claim it was a trade with another dealership that was driven here from another state. Is this normal practice? Or is this car basically a demo/test drive car that has been driven hard? Advice, please!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Great forum btw!
I am return my leased minivan to Nissan - due 9/18.
My vehicle registration is due and up for renewal in August.
Can I turn the vehicle in w/o renewing my registration?
Thanks in advance!
General Questions about Leasing
"I am return my leased minivan to Nissan - due 9/18.
My vehicle registration is due and up for renewal in August.
Can I turn the vehicle in w/o renewing my registration?"
Your lease is up on Sept 18, and your registration is due in August...were you implying that you would turn in the vehicle early so as to avoid having to pay registration for another year???
If you turn the car in before the registration is due, I would assume that you do not have to renew the registration...if you keep the car until Sept 18, you run the risk of driving on an expired license plate, which, here is Georgia, can be expensive if you are ticketed...
Here in GA, if you renew the registration and turn in the car the following month, I believe that registration fee (actually, here it is called an ad valorem fee, as we pay a tax on the value of the vehicle, a tax which goes down every year as the vehicle depreciates) will actually carry over to your next vehicle for the next 11 months, assuming that you purchase another vehicle to replace the leased vehicle...
==============
What should my strategy be?
- cash payment
- no good at haggling, no time for games
- timing – test drive, rebates, demand surge from cash for clunkers
Hi, everyone. I believe the answer I’m seeking doesn’t apply to any one brand. I’ve also read the car-buying strategy guide, but am not sure how certain things apply to me and the current times.
I’m in the NY metro area, never bought or owned my own car, and have gotten by without a car for several years now, but I’m going to need one within the next couple of months (would’ve preferred to have had one a few months ago, but I’ve gotten by). I’m also in the beginning stages of buying a house.
I wish to pay for my car (Corolla / Civic / Mazda 3) in *cash*, and since I’ll be applying for a mortgage soon, I’d strongly prefer that my credit not be checked by the dealer lest such an inquiry lower my score.
And since I don’t have time for the usual car-buying games that I hear about, or that much willpower in terms of haggling, I’m tempted to go the fixed price route to buy (e.g., carmax, AAA, Costco). Although I won’t get the absolute best deal, would this be a reasonable option for my situation?
Alternatively, I can pit dealers against each other through the internet as is commonly recommended, but then a few other questions arise
- If I play the strategy by-the-book and wait until the last possible minute to say that it’s a cash purchase, is it likely that the price originally quoted won’t be honored since it might assume a profit off financing that won't happen? I’d hate to waste time pursuing an unrealistic deal.
- The test drive - The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering. I’d hate to go through the trouble of a bidding war only to test drive it and learn that it drives like a shopping cart. I’m not sure when to do the test drive. I’m afraid that if I just walk in and ask for one, that that sales person would be the one handling my sale and not the internet person, who seems to be more willing to negotiate.
I suppose I could find a dealership that I have virtually no interest in buying from to do it, but the steering issues seem to occur at highway speeds, and this place isn’t anywhere near where I’d be able to do even 55 mph.
Lastly, I’ve had trouble timing this whole thing. I first decided on the Corolla at the very end of June, when they were giving $500 cash back on the ‘10’s. There’s no way I would’ve had my finances in order to complete a purchase by the time that offer expired, so I waited out the unimpressive July deals and now I’m stuck in August. This cash-for-clunkers thing has really put me in a bind. I’m not sure if cash-back rebates are typically only for those who finance with the car company. If they are, then that won’t factor too much into the timing (meaning I wasted a month for nothing) . But, with the surge in demand for compact cars, I have much less negotiating power than I did just two weeks ago. And, there aren’t even rebates on the ‘09’s anymore. Should I wait all this out – maybe even until the ‘10’ Civics come out, or should I just get this purchase over with knowing that the market may be recovering?
OK, I’ve analyzed this to death. If anyone has any ideas to share, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I want to sell my vehicle and I have done some online research on what I would need to do step by step.
I learned that I need to have both parties fill out a Bill of Sales as well as form DTF-802 - statement of transaction before I transfer the title.
I have a few questions:
I know I have to take the plates off of the car, but what do I do about the window sticker that has the registration expiration date on it?
With the tax form, do both parties pay tax on the transaction or just one (seller? buyer?)
When I turn over the title, I know i should sign it and date it and record the odometer reading on the back, is that all I do there?
Thank you very much for your help, as you can tell, i have not done anything like that before and I thought it would be smart to ask. Thanks again