Used the USAA Car Buyers program to get our 2010 CX-9 GT (no options) for $26,906 (incl. the $2k off). Would have been $300 less but the car had to be brought in b/c it was the only one left in the color we wanted.
I highly recommend that USAA members at least try this service - it was so easy. The dealer gave me their LOW price the day before I used USAA and it was $2k higher. Once I went through USAA though it was no problem getting the lower price.
I'm in the market for a CX-9 but undecided on getting a 2010 vs a 2011. The 2010s are lower by around $2,000, but do you lose out later on resale by having a car that's a year older?
CX-9 GT FW Nav, Bose, Lift Gate, Towing prep, $34894+taxes and tags. Going to take 0%. I think it's a good price but getting a bad vibe from sales Manger.
If we go by the price that bababooey2010 got for their 2010 CX-9 GT without options, i.e. $28,906 (without the $2k off, since you will use 0%), then the target price of your specific CX-9 would breakdown to:
I had a trade-in too, but yes that is the price I received for the car. Got the trade-in appraised the day before for a great price, then used USAA the next day and set up the sale.
Also got $500 off for already being a Mazda owner - but that came off the back end, not off the price
jp morgan chase bank does the mazda loans.other places were offering 2.9%. i didn't buldge on the price. they told me either 2K off or 0% for 60 months. i told them that price with 0 percent or i walk. didn't really need another car that bad, so after they ran my credit they decided to accept my offer. analogy..don't go grocery shopping if you are hungry.....
I was told the same thing, i.e. that JP Morgan Chase does the Mazda Loans. I also got 0% APR with JP Morgan Chase. I bought our 2010 CX-9 GT with roof rack for $29,500 + Fees + TTL. If I took the $2k incentive, it would be $27,500 but 0% seemed to be more attractive to me. I did walk the first time and they called me up half an hour later and agreed to my terms. Like andychan said, be prepared to walk and his analogy is spot on.
Darn those are good prices - Andy - that's the first I've heard of someone getting 0% and the $2000 off- nice work. You guys are getting prices $1000 BELOW trucar's dealer cost page? Has anyone heard of the November incentives?
yeah with that price, it seems that i was getting 2K off along with the 0% APR, however dealerships can still make money even if they sell it under the invoice or with a loss. Don't feel sorry for them..:) take them for what they got and don't look back..lol 3 other dealerships were telling me that either I take the 2K off or 0% APR. Bottom line, when you make an offer..start really low and work your way up..never start high and work your way down.. common sense.
I'm glad I found this forum and would appreciate any input. In the process of pricing a 2010 GT AWD with Bose/Moon, Nav, Power liftgate, Tow hitch, and Roof rack. MSRP is $39990, Invoice is $36704, and Dealer cost is $34383. TMV what others are Paying price is $34601. I would like to throw an OTD price/ offer. I would also qualify for the $500 loyalty and 0/60 financing. Should I start with the TMV price of $34601, minus $500 loyalty as base and figure TTL to come up with my OTD and stand firm? With all the info In this forum it appears some are doing even better. Anyone made a Great deal on a similar model?There are lots of CX9 in my state. In my state.
How is this deal.. 2010 Mazda CX-9 Touring AWD (MSRP $33,220) for $28,488? This is without the 0% financing. I am trading 2006 Odyssey exl with 36k miles and they are offering $16,500 trade. That seems a bit low. What should I push for? Thanks.
Do you have any idea what your trade is worth? At the very least, visit Carmax and get an appraisal. Tell them you just want to know what the market value is for the Honda Odyssey. Those vans should command a higher trade-in value.
With regards to the price, I think you can do better if it's without 0%. The MSRP of the GT that I bought was almost $34000 and purchased for $29500 with 0%. Based on that price, the difference in our MSRPs ($780) and my purchase price, the Touring you are interested in should be around $26700 with $2K off.
does your odyssey have an entertainment system? if so, 16,700+ is the trade in value according to edmunds. Also, word of advice...never negotiate your trade in..until you have agreed upon the price of the cx-9. why? because they can throw in multiple figures to confuse you and yo will end up losing some money. i always tell them that i don't have a trade in and then negotiate the price of the new car..and once it is confirmed in writing..then i will tell them that i have changed my mind and start negotiating the trade in..do 1 thing at a time..
We purchased a brand new 2010 Grand Touring with Moonroof and powerlift gate for 30254 without 0% and before 500 rebate. The MSRP is 36250 as a reference. We negotiated a price for a 2010 Touring with moonroof and powerlift gate for 28500 before 500 rebate, but the dealer do not have the color we want.
I am also in the market for the GT AWD with MR/B and Nav.
Asked for the "What Others are Paying" from Edmunds and one dealer said ok, come on in but the local dealer where I live said I could not get the financing on that price. It would be a cash price.
The one dealer could be a come on but accepted $37,553 OTD. I am in no hurry so I'll let it ride awhile to see if the local guy comes back.
Got a quote left on my voice mail from my local dealer on this package for $35800, which is $900 below invoice with 0/60 financing. Didn't call them back today. Haven't pushed it further yet and still not where I believe it can be. Thought they might come in a little better being the last day of the month. Will wait to see what incentives Mazda offers for November. Still intrigued with some of the posts saying they are getting both the 0/60 financing and $2000 incentive. My dealer offered one or the other. Didn't push for both yet. If I could land both then would be a lot closer to where I think it should be from many of the deals on this forum. I've bought a few Mazda's from this dealer but may need to expand the search if things stall. Will update as negotiations continue.
Just picked up a 2010 GT AWD Crystal White with Navi, RSES and Liftgate for $35,899 (plus $60 admin fee) with 0% for 60 months. Had to drive 100 miles to get it though, the local dealers couldn't do it they said.
Any good? I am pretty happy with the deal. They gave me $10,850 for my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited), too, which was about $1,000 more than anyone else had offered.
I ponied up for an extended warranty (6yr/72,000 since my wife drives her cars forever) as it seemed fairly priced, and I will pay taxes OOP (they charge sales tax on the sales tax in MO from what I understand, if you roll it into the loan).
Dealer will only offer you 2K off or 0% APR/ 60 months. You just need to negotiate really well... eventually your final offer feels like they are giving you 2K plus 0%.
depends on what the APR is for 60 months. Sometimes it is better to take 0% APR in lieu of 2K off. TMV is around 34,761. Do the math when you find out about the APR. Shouldn't be anything higher than 2.9%.
I guess you realize that there is a big deviation in prices between the U.S. and Canada. If it weren't for possible warranty voidance, I would seriously recommend going across the border and buying in the U.S. especially since the U.S. greenback and the Canadian loonie are almost the same in value.
Am shopping for a Black or Blue CX-9 GT AWD with the bose/moonroof package, Navigation and power rear hatch. I got a quote from a local dealer for a car that has all of the above plus tow hitch and harness, all weather floor mats and rear bumper step plate for $33,000. The MSRP (inluding destination fee) is $40,000.
The $33,000 price includes the $2K incentive, and so, will not qualify for the 0% APR. However, I am planning to put a down payment of ~10K and finance the rest with a 2.99% auto loan. I save more with the $2K off than the 0% in this case.
I was also able to get free oil changes for the life of the car.
This seems to be a good price based on the posts I've read here. The other dealers in the area are quoting $34,800 for the same car (without the tow hitch and the rear bumper step).
Is this really a good price? Any comments/thoughts? Thanks.
I'm shopping for the same model in Black and the best price I got was $35,800 with the 0%/60months, same options minus the mats and rear bumper step plate. I got this offer Oct 31 and haven't tried to get it lower due to the fact that things here at work are looking a little shaky all of a sudden. Don't need a new car if I'm out of work. That said, you are getting a few extras that weren't in my offer which is $800 below what I was quoted (not considering the 2K incentive which you are taking). Not a bad deal at all. Where are you getting this price? Here in Florida, it seems that $400-$500 under invoice is about the best you can get. Haven't seen the spectacular numbers that I read about here in the forum. Also, watch out that the dealer doesn't hit you with huge fees while closing the deal! Good luck!
This is in Portland, OR. I will also qualify for a $500 Mazda loyalty discount (bought a Mazda 3 last year). Thanks for the heads up regarding the fees. Will watch out for it when I go in to finalize today or tomorrow.
Just purchased 2010 CX -9 GT, Color: Dolphin Gray with remote starter and all weather mats for $33,190. The dealer location is in Quincy, MA. Paid cash for it and it seemed like a good deal.
Did you get the car? I am trying to get to the same price in the SF Bay area but not succeeding yet. The dealers just got a shipment of 2011's so that might make a difference.
I got it at team superstores, vallejo ca. You need to go visit mazda website and view inventory. find the car you like and go to carsdirect.com, edmunds, truecar.com. get the (great price) cost and go to the dealership. Don't hassle with the salesman, and just tell him what you price you want, if not, walk away.
I see that 2011's are on the lots and the incentives didn't change for November. Still a bunch of 2010's in my state and appears that sales have slowed according To my local dealer. Anyone bought a 2010 or 2011 in last few weeks? Anyone care to guess what Mazda may do as far as incentives for December?
2010 Touring with wheel locks...its my commuter car to the train, and then half family car. Had a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT, auto and loaded, but with four kids, needed another family car too (we have a leased 2010 Buick Enclave - great vehicle).
While I loved the Buick, I couldn't see getting another one, or a Traverse, or a Arcadia - needed something different.
Came down to CX-9 and Pilot. Different animals, and might have gone Pilot if it had been comparably priced and did not have the cheap plastic on the dash, but the comparable Pilot was $6,000 more...couldn't see that for my "train car".
Plus, love the sporty ride and quietness of the CX-9.
Got $13,500 for my Spyder, and got the Touring CX9 w/wheel locks for $28,150 plus destination. Might have been able to get something better - but, seemed decent enough.
Now - to lease or just buy. Probably buy. Opinions? I'll probably hold onto this for 6 years, so, probably makes sense to just flat out buy it. Have until Wednesday morning to decide.
guitarcx9, I waited for the new Pilot to come out until I saw the spy shots, then, I went to the Mazda dealer for the CX9. I've owned several Honda/Acura in my life. The hallmarks of Honda are "noises and lousy brakes". My CX9 put a smile on my face every time I drive it around. And, I used to own a BMW 540iA for 10 yrs.
Anyway, I usually own vehicles for about 7 yrs. Therefore, I bought all the vehicles I owned. Why 7? Even reliable vehicles start to show problems after 7 yrs statistically.
Anyway, I usually own vehicles for about 7 yrs. Therefore, I bought all the vehicles I owned. Why 7? Even reliable vehicles start to show problems after 7 yrs statistically
I happen to agree.
Seeing cars come in on trade that are 7 years old with miles ranging from 90,000 to 150,000 almost always needs thousands in work to be considered a "safe" car to drive by most state laws. Some of this is neglected maintenance but also defective or broken parts (ABS light, check engine light, airbag light). With needing thousands of work, does this make them "reliable"? That's a tough question. I would say no. Just because a car is drivable does not make it reliable. I have seen this is every car made including Toyota's, Honda's, Nissann's, Mazda's, Ford's, GM's, VW's....etc....There are also cars that come in not needing much of all from all manufacturers. I guess how the car is taken care of can determine how "reliable" the car is when it gets older.
Comments
I highly recommend that USAA members at least try this service - it was so easy. The dealer gave me their LOW price the day before I used USAA and it was $2k higher. Once I went through USAA though it was no problem getting the lower price.
2010 CX-9 GT: 28,906
M/B: 1,939
Nav: 1,432
Liftgate: 344
Towing: 86
= 32,707 + TTL +0% financing
Also got $500 off for already being a Mazda owner - but that came off the back end, not off the price
In the process of pricing a 2010 GT AWD with Bose/Moon, Nav,
Power liftgate, Tow hitch, and Roof rack. MSRP is $39990, Invoice
is $36704, and Dealer cost is $34383. TMV what others are
Paying price is $34601. I would like to throw an OTD price/ offer.
I would also qualify for the $500 loyalty and 0/60 financing. Should I start
with the TMV price of $34601, minus $500 loyalty as base and figure TTL to
come up with my OTD and stand firm? With all the info
In this forum it appears some are doing even better. Anyone made a
Great deal on a similar model?There are lots of CX9 in my state.
In my state.
2010 Mazda CX-9 Touring AWD (MSRP $33,220) for $28,488? This is without the 0% financing.
I am trading 2006 Odyssey exl with 36k miles and they are offering $16,500 trade. That seems a bit low.
What should I push for?
Thanks.
With regards to the price, I think you can do better if it's without 0%. The MSRP of the GT that I bought was almost $34000 and purchased for $29500 with 0%. Based on that price, the difference in our MSRPs ($780) and my purchase price, the Touring you are interested in should be around $26700 with $2K off.
Asked for the "What Others are Paying" from Edmunds and one dealer said ok, come on in but the local dealer where I live said I could not get the financing on that price. It would be a cash price.
The one dealer could be a come on but accepted $37,553 OTD. I am in no hurry so I'll let it ride awhile to see if the local guy comes back.
Regards,
OW
Haven't pushed it further yet and still not where I believe it can be. Thought they might come in a little better being the last day of the month. Will wait to see what incentives Mazda offers for November. Still intrigued with some of the posts saying they are getting both the 0/60 financing and $2000 incentive. My dealer offered one or the other. Didn't push for both yet. If I could land both then would be a lot closer to where I think it should be from many of the deals on this forum. I've bought a few Mazda's from this dealer but may need to expand the search if things stall. Will update as negotiations continue.
Grand GT AWD, w/ Moonroof, Bose, Power Rear Lifted Gate, Navi for $32927 plus $100 processing fee plus TTL.
Is this a good deal? Reasonable deal? What's should I go from there?
Thanks in advance.
Any good? I am pretty happy with the deal. They gave me $10,850 for my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited), too, which was about $1,000 more than anyone else had offered.
I ponied up for an extended warranty (6yr/72,000 since my wife drives her cars forever) as it seemed fairly priced, and I will pay taxes OOP (they charge sales tax on the sales tax in MO from what I understand, if you roll it into the loan).
Was just reading around and wanted some feedback.
I purchased the 2010 CX9 T AWD for 32,990, 0% in the NYC area. Is that a good price?
Am shopping for a Black or Blue CX-9 GT AWD with the bose/moonroof package, Navigation and power rear hatch. I got a quote from a local dealer for a car that has all of the above plus tow hitch and harness, all weather floor mats and rear bumper step plate for $33,000. The MSRP (inluding destination fee) is $40,000.
The $33,000 price includes the $2K incentive, and so, will not qualify for the 0% APR. However, I am planning to put a down payment of ~10K and finance the rest with a 2.99% auto loan. I save more with the $2K off than the 0% in this case.
I was also able to get free oil changes for the life of the car.
This seems to be a good price based on the posts I've read here. The other dealers in the area are quoting $34,800 for the same car (without the tow hitch and the rear bumper step).
Is this really a good price? Any comments/thoughts? Thanks.
Did you get the car? I am trying to get to the same price in the SF Bay area but not succeeding yet. The dealers just got a shipment of 2011's so that might make a difference.
Thanks.
hope this helps
Still a bunch of 2010's in my state and appears that sales have slowed according
To my local dealer. Anyone bought a 2010 or 2011 in last few weeks? Anyone care to guess what Mazda may do as far as incentives for December?
While I loved the Buick, I couldn't see getting another one, or a Traverse, or a Arcadia - needed something different.
Came down to CX-9 and Pilot. Different animals, and might have gone Pilot if it had been comparably priced and did not have the cheap plastic on the dash, but the comparable Pilot was $6,000 more...couldn't see that for my "train car".
Plus, love the sporty ride and quietness of the CX-9.
Got $13,500 for my Spyder, and got the Touring CX9 w/wheel locks for $28,150 plus destination. Might have been able to get something better - but, seemed decent enough.
Now - to lease or just buy. Probably buy. Opinions? I'll probably hold onto this for 6 years, so, probably makes sense to just flat out buy it. Have until Wednesday morning to decide.
I waited for the new Pilot to come out until I saw the spy shots, then, I went to the Mazda dealer for the CX9.
I've owned several Honda/Acura in my life.
The hallmarks of Honda are "noises and lousy brakes".
My CX9 put a smile on my face every time I drive it around. And, I used to own a BMW 540iA for 10 yrs.
Anyway, I usually own vehicles for about 7 yrs. Therefore, I bought all the vehicles I owned. Why 7? Even reliable vehicles start to show problems after 7 yrs statistically.
I happen to agree.
Seeing cars come in on trade that are 7 years old with miles ranging from 90,000 to 150,000 almost always needs thousands in work to be considered a "safe" car to drive by most state laws. Some of this is neglected maintenance but also defective or broken parts (ABS light, check engine light, airbag light). With needing thousands of work, does this make them "reliable"? That's a tough question. I would say no. Just because a car is drivable does not make it reliable. I have seen this is every car made including Toyota's, Honda's, Nissann's, Mazda's, Ford's, GM's, VW's....etc....There are also cars that come in not needing much of all from all manufacturers. I guess how the car is taken care of can determine how "reliable" the car is when it gets older.
How do you figure current prices for 2011?