We live in Strafford VT. just east of Woodstock. Been here 6+ years and we love it. Moved up from Springfield MA and don't miss the city at all! My wife and our two girls took up skiing a couple of years ago and they love it. I'm much happier on an old snowmobile. We've already had a couple of days with some serious snow flurries and I'm waiting to put this MS to the test when the real snow starts flying. One thing I really like about the Montero Sport is, not everyone and there brother (or sister) is driving one! I just hope they don't know something we don't know!(LOL) 1600 miles and no complaints from me.
I have the Yokohama Geolander tires. The book says 26 lbs, but as you know with the Firestone tires, that was the recomended tire pressure. Now they say to have 30 lbs plus.
There was a tire comparison test in Automobile Magazine on a Mercedes SUV a few months ago. They picked the Yokohama's the best all around tire out of the 6 or 7 tested. Included Goodyear, Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelle, BF Goodrich, General, and a couple of others that I cannot remember. That was there choice on dry and wet pavement. Did not get into off-road stuff.
Personally, I think the tire is good, but I like Michelins better. Just have had great wear and durability from Michelin tires.
Just to let you know why I picked the Sport versus others. I narrowed my picks down to three vehicles. The Sport, 4-Runner (I am a Toyota Buff for many years)and the Pathfinder. Ruled out the Pathfinder mainly for one reason. I pull a boat and wanted a full frame vehicle and not unibody. So it came down to the 4-Runner and the Sport. I have owned a 92 4-Runner and it was a good vehicle. Comparison between these two vehicles were almost identical. A few different options one would offer that the other would not. I was looking at the Limited models on both. What it came down to was price. The Sport was 5,000 dollars less than the 4-Runner. I was also aware that the resale value of the Sport was going to be far less than the 4-Runner in the short term and level out as years passed by. I planned to keep the Sport for 6+ years, so I did not weigh that factor in heavily. I did my research on the vehicle, showed to be mostly positive, had a good dealership here, so took the chance. Mitsubishi is a very reputable vehicle in other countries. Just not as well known in the States.
The Sport is a very smooth running vehicle. If you are a tall person, you will not fit well. The seats are raised up from the floor more than the most other SUV's in this class. Rear seat room is good. Better than most, although brochure specs do not show this. Compare to 4-Runner or Pathfinder and you will find out what I mean, even though specs show 4-Runner has more. Don't know where each manufacture measures from.
Cons: Paint (chips easily), transmission (ok, smooth shifting, but not crisp), low head room, low resale, cheap bumpers, need rear spring helpers (installed air bags, work great).
Mention one other thing. If you settle on the Sport and are willing to buy used, there are some great deals out there. I could buy a 2000 LTD 4X4 with less than 15,000 miles for around $23,000. I think this is a screamin deal. Check around. Rental units are being auctioned off.
I am considering the 4Runner and Liberty along with the MS, I have never been to impressed by the Pathfinder. The Liberty seems like a great vehicle, but I just can't get past the small cargo area. I like the 4Runner, but it does seem like it is possible to get a similarly equipped MS for much less. The 4Runner was at the top of my list until I saw the recent safety reviews for the MS, it is rated better than the 4Runner now.
I keep my vehicles for a very long time, so I am not too worried about resale value. I just want a quality vehicle that will be dependable for a very long time. I have read that Mitsu initial quality is lower than Toyota, but 5 to 10 years down the road, they are about the same. I know Toyotas are supposed to be great for long term reliability, but I have a friend with a 92 Toyota truck that is literally falling apart with less than 90K miles.
The more I read about the MS, the more I like it. I will buy new since I do keep vehicles for so long.
Sounds like fun up there. If the in-laws do not decide to retire out in CO. we may be heading your way. As for the snow, we have had some too and the mountains got 4 to 8 inches last night. I was thinking about heading up just to check out how our new MTS handles it. Edmunds reviews states that the MTS is not too good in 4 wheel conditions but who the heck knows until you get out there yourself. I have had mine for 500 miles now and love it!
I traded in my cherokee sport for the Montero. I have had 4 Jeeps in my lifetime and I do like them. However the cherokee sport (which has been replaced by the Liberty) was the worst of the bunch. Very bumpy ride and very rudimentary. I know that the Liberty is less expensive than the MTS but you get what you pay for. I could have bought a new Liberty but opted instead for a 2001 Montero XLS with 13,750 miles for the same price. There is no comparison. In regards to roominess, smooth drive, and comfort the MTS wins hands down. If you were comparing the Grand Cherokee to the MTS then I would say that it is a more difficult call.
I purchased a used 1997 Mitsubishi Montero Sport XLS last November from a M-dealer with 44K miles. I do mostly highway driving (25K/yr), and the vehicle consistently burns a quart of oil every 1K miles. I mentioned this to the M-dealer and he stated that this was normal. Anyone else have the same experience ? To say that I am NOT pleased with the vehicle would be an understatement. Since owning the vehicle (11) I've had the cam seals replaced, the rear main seal replaced, and the transmission rebuilt. Now the rear end whines and clunks. The dealer 60K check w/timing belt was $1,200.00. The only good part is thank heavens I got a 3yr-36K extended warranty with the vehicle. I can't wait to get rid of it and get a Toyota 4Runner!
I have had my Montero Sport Limited for nearly a year and I am really pleased. 12,500 miles and no problems. Picked up a screw in the stock Yokohama's in the first month, but Yoko split the replacement cost with me. I had simply called to see if a screw in the sidewall would be covered. They said no...but still sent me a 50% off coupon. Everything else has been great. Does great in light 4-wheeling, have not really tried any rough stuff. Plenty of room, and the back seat is very roomy for passengers. Wish it was wide enough for a 4x sheet of plywood or drywall.
Well the dealer is going to re program my tranny.Corporate thinks that is why there is a vibration. If it does not stop they will replace my tranny and tranfercase. They think the vibration harms the trans and transfercase output shaft.What do you guys think?
anyone taking advantage of this? no down, no interest, no payments to 2003. was i seeing this right?
i was hoping to get info on a steal on a sport. TMV loaded on LTD is 32,036 is that a possibility? what would you all here try to pay for one of those? Invoice $31,049
hopin for some help. gonna test drive this weekend.
First, there is an advertising charge that is not shown but referred to. Unfortunately, Mitsubishi charges around $550.00 on the Sport. You can try to negotiate that with the dealer, but he still has to pay it.
Second, there is a holdback dollars that the dealer gets back when he sells the vehicle. It is 2% of Base MSRP. LTD 4X4: 32,887 x 2% = 657.74.
Third, if there are any dealer installed options, like hitch, wind deflectors, etc., there will be an extra cost for these items. My dealer gave them to me at his cost.
Fourth, flooring interest charges are applied to the vehicle as soon as it arrives at the dealer.
With all this taken into consideration, I feel if you can negotiate a price 100 to 500 over dealer cost, you have a deal.
The TMV price listed, I feel, is at least 500 to high.
Another note. The Sport depreciates rapidly. The vehicles value will be around $10,000 less in two years. You best figure on keeping it for 5 years. Especially if you do not pay anything on it for the first year. Done that with my 2000 LTD Sport. Been a good vehicle. Wife loves it.
We bought a used 2001 MS LS with 22000 miles on it recently. My wife and I really like the vehicle. I only have really one issue with the vehicle, I have noticed that during a left turn, if we go over a small bump, there is a knock in the front end of our car. It only happens turning left. I am kind of a stickler about our cars and this noise bothers me. Its a lite knocking noise but can be felt through the dead pedal. I cant feel it in the steering. I noticed it one day puling into our driveway. I took to the dealer, he acknowledges that there is a noise, he even said two other used MS had the same knock. I felt this noise was worth investigating further and the dealer was nice enough to inspect our car for over a day and a half. Assuming they really did check the car out, he said they could only duplicate the noise on our vehicle and the used MS on the lot but not the new ones. He was unable to find the source of the knock. They claim that is probably part of the front torsion bar suspension system and is acceptable, but I still don't feel comfortable hearing the noise on a regular basis. I have gotten under the car and pumped up all the grease fittings, like I read here in town hall in another post, and have checked all the suspension mounting points visually, as well as using a small pry bar in hopes if finding a loose bushing or something. I haven't found anything myself. Does anyone have any suggestions/solution/experience with this issue. The dealer says drive on, but I still hear the knock and it bothers me. Thanks in advance.
Last I heard, the operator was having to redo his operation. Crashed! He has a Lexus site and was upgrading that before he was going to do the garage site. Apparently, short of funds. Don't know when he will get to it or he may just bag it.
Had an oil chg ~3000 mi ago and just recently, the oil light would dimly come on when stopped in traffic, idling. Once I give it gas or accelerate, it goes off. Happens again when I idle at a light for more than 30 sec or so. It seems to just barely come on and kind of flicker between on and off.
I checked oil. Level is fine. Anyone ever have this happen?
I bought a '99 LS 4WD used (24K miles)...NO regrets! Have 78K now( combination driving), doesn't burn any oil, avg mpg @23. Still rides/handles great. Just luck?.... OR...
I have changed out a mast on my T100 power antenna. It was done from under the fender. You have to remove the outside flange around the antenna for it to slip downwards. Not hard to do, but for some reason when I put it back together, the antenna would go down when I turned the vehicle on and up when off. I just reversed the wires and it has worked fine since. Strange! When I replaced it, it was in the off position and the new antenna was in the down position.
I've had a great experience with my 2001 XS. It has 3.5 liter engine which is a solid performer. I upgraded to Bridgestone Dueler H/L tires. Improve handling and wet traction 200%. 19,000 mile nary a problem.
I picked up a 99 Montero Sport XLS with 24K on it. I needed a fairly roomy (at least cargo -wise) vehicle for my new family. The Montero seemeed to fit the bill perfectly. It drove and rode well, gets good gas mileage, very comfortable and has better cargo room than its competitors. I always had trepidations about buying Mitsus because of many of the problems mentioned in these discussions. Needless to say, I caved and traded my 97 Subaru Legacy Outback (a nearly flawless vehicle) for the Montero. Since I've purchased the vehicle , I have several complaints/problems: 1.) Cupholder is absolutely rediculous and potentially dangerous since you can't see the radio while in use 2.) Changing oil is a nuisance - (2) skid plates need to be removed - 1 plate stripped all crappy bolts while pulling off - left off permanently 3.) Faint oil burning smell - no oil consumption but oil is black after 2000 miles - PLEASE TELL ME THAT MY WORST FEAR IS NOT A REALITY - that these 3.0L's burn oil for a living. 4.) Blew out a Yokohama after hitting a curb at only 5 MPH!!! What if I were off-road?? 5.) Cheap spare tire winch - tire shop broke it after replacing the above. 6.) Annoying power antenna looks and sounds like something from a 1975 Lincoln - I doubt that it will last another 2 years. 7.) Lots of wind and road noise on the highway 8.) Buzzing 4WD shifter at highway speeds 9.) Erratic 4WD operation - on 1st snowy day had lots of trouble getting it to engage. Dealer checked - no problem found. 10.) Maintenance seems a little excessive - plugs,timing belts, brakes, fluids - all relatively costly operations.
With all that said - the truck looks so damned good! It's got a rugged but refined look that's unmatched by the competition.
The long and short of it is I would NOT recommend this vehicle to anyone simply because of the plethora of overall better choices out there. I'm sure I'll be trading this in before its exorbitantly priced 60K service.
I have a 99 Sport XLS which I have owned since new. I agree about the cup-holders. This was changed in the model year 2000 which made me a little made.
I have Yokohoma tires which have 40,000 + miles on them and living in Minnesota they go through the hot of hot and cold of cold including snow. Never a problem. Yokohoma is one of the better tires out there in my book. I will not replace B4 my lease it up.
I get oil changes done at the dealership. $25 is a little price to pay for my time.
SUV maintanence is always a little more. Work with your service advisor on what needs to be done and you will be surprised how fast the dollar bills go down.
No problem with oil burning or smell. No problem with road noise. No problem with power antenna except in the car wash I ripped one off. Opps. No problem with 4 wheel drive.
Now with the 2002 models coming with all wheel drive and no extra charge or loss in gas mileage it looks like I am into another this summer. They even look better.
Sorry, I thing you got a bad egg. These puppies last forever. To many stories to count. I work at a dealership.
I have just started shopping for an 02 MS limited and was wondering what others have to say about the model. Any ideas on prices and how low the dealers might go? One of the models I am looking at is a 2002 limited (DEMO) with 2500 miles on it. The vehicle has every option/accy available except the roof accy pack, the hitch and the rear spoiler. I know these are around 33k brand new and figured to offer around 31.5k for a new one. Could you bid 30k for this demo realistically? NOTE: MSsquared (My initials are MS and the car I want is MS) (MS + MS = MS Squared!!
$30K would be to low. Dealers do not have that much mark up. $31,500 is also a little low. $32,000 is a little more realistic, but it does not hurt to start at $31,500. MSRP is just under $33,500 and I know they do not have much more than $2000 to work with.
Have fun in your new MS squared....you should try to get that to be a specialized plate.
Hey Sport Owners. You guys and gals still out there? Board has been dead!!! Miss the Montero Sport Garage Board.
Anyhow, I thought I let you know a little information. On my 2000 LTD 4X4 Sport, the dash brake light would come on when I braked and off when I accelerated. Thought I had a bad sensor. Took it in, under warranty, and found that it was low on brake fluid, because the front brake pads were almost gone. Added brake fluid and problem went away. Now I have to replace the brake pads. Either going to do it myself or take to a brake shop that warranties them for as long as you own your vehicle. (Brake Shop)
I have just turned 27,000 miles. Been a great ride, thus far. Thought 27,000 miles was low for the pads to be gone. But I think it is because of the type of pad Mitsu uses. Made of a carbon fiber, I guess, that will cut down on brake squeal. Will upgrade to a better pad that should last longer.
Hello. I am looking for a new car for my father and am very interested in the Montero Sport. I don't know much about them so I was hoping that some of you current owners could tell me your likes and dislikes about the car. One concern of ours is that he is partially deaf and he needs a car that doesn't make much sound on the highway, back roads, etc. You can email me at Ellenneb@aol.com with any useful info about the car. Thank you very much.
My husband and I just bought a 2001 Montero Sport 4WD XLS yesterday. I never thought we would purchase a foreign vehicle. But after pricing different models, the features seemed to be around the same for the price. I have read other boards where they are having problems with vibrations at highway speeds. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem? We got our MS for around $27000, it has 300 miles on it. I was looking at the 2002 LS and it was priced around the same. I have also read problems with the transmission not shifting smoothly. Of course I found these message boards after we bought it. I realize that no vehicle is safe from malfunctions or problems, just wondering what type of problems anyone is having
You should not have to worry about the transmission flare problem. Yours should be corrected. These were on 2000 and, I think, very early 2001 production models.
You will know if it happens. Usually upon heavy acceleration, when it shifts, it will rev up and then pop into gear. I hear some Nissan Pathfinders are having a similar problem.
I just read a post where someone is considering paying 31K or more for a Montero Sport. I looked long and hard at Montero Sports before finally deciding to purchase a Chevy Tahoe. A fully equipped Tahoe definitely costs way more than a fully equipped Montero Sport. However, if you don't have to have leather seats and every other amenity known to man, a Tahoe is comparably priced. I just purchased a nice Tahoe with a third row seat and a 5.3 liter (285 hp / 325 ft/lb of torque) engine for only 31k. Plus, I have been getting 17-18 mpg with the Tahoe. My understanding is that the 3.5 liter engine in the Sport isn't much if any better (and I have a whole bunch more ponies under the hood). I won't debate whether a Mitsubishi is better than a Chevy. Clearly, both have their merits. However, you should at least consider it before going out and spending that kind of money. (One more thing - the insurance on a Tahoe is WAY less than insurance for a Montero Sport - $400 per year different through SAFECO.)
It there any thing wrong with towing a 2500lbs using the montero sport? I know that the company say you can tow up to 5000lbs. But does towing cause anything to happen to the vechile. What are the pros and cons of towing? what should I expectect. How far can I tow somthing? What is recommended? Have you ever tow anything with your montero sport and if so how far. Let me know thanks Email me at Marlo29@bigfoot.com Have a great day
I tow a boat that weighs around 2500 lbs and it does just fine. In fact I was rather surprised how well it does tow. I have the LTD 4x4 with the 3.5 engine, which has very good torque. The 2000 LTD also has a 4:90 rear axle ratio which is also a plus for towing. And a full frame to handle the load. This is one of the reasons why I purchased the Sport.
You can pull for as far as you want and not have any problems as long as you keep your speed under 65. Please note, that most trailer tires are rated for a speed at 65 mph tops. Towing any faster greatly improves your risk of a tire blow out. People do tow faster and they are a accident waiting to happen.
If you pull a lot, I recommend adding a transmission oil cooler. The problems that you can have, as with any vehicle, is the transmission heating up. Do not want to burn it up. There is a warning light that tells you when the transmission is running too hot. Also, you can add a engine oil cooler that will help protect the motor. Cost installed for each is usually under $200.00.
Another item you will want to add, as I did, is some type of rear spring helper. So not to have the body riding on the bump stops. I added Airlift 1000 air bags. They work great and cost around $80.00. Installed, around $150.00 total.
I live in Montana, with hilly roads and mountain passes. The 3.5 litre Sport does a remarkable job of towing. Just drive sensible when towing.
I've just replaced my car battery and now my audio system is asking me for a code.
I've called the dealer that I bought it from but since it was a used car they have no records of the code.
I was then told that I would have to get the serial number off the back of the stereo and bring it to them to look it up. By the way, I was quoted $95 for them to perform this task.
On a small scale, this has the feel of some kind of scam.
One of the sales guy initially told me that all I would need is the VIN for the service department to look it up.
So, what's the deal here? Does anyone have any further insight about this.
I talked with my dealership, who are great, and they told me that the radio would have to be pulled to get the serial number and model number off the back of the radio in order to get back to Mitsu. to get code. Did not ask for a cost but you might even try an audio shop to pull it at a lesser cost.
I test drove a 2001 montero sport 2wd and liked the ride and the price is right at 19k with 23k miles. they look good too, but what about their insides--repair issues.
To the couple who had the problem with the knocking noise under your Montero,I have a 2000ms xls and have had it over a year. The dealer was no help.I finally narrowed it down its the spare tire !!!!!!!!!!Take the spare of and go for a test drive you'll see..It sounds like its coming from the front but it's the spare.
I could not take the front end vibration at high spped any longer nor the cavalier attitude of the dealers who didi nothing.
Originially I had believed 100% that it was tire related, after all this time, I am sure (at least for mine it was not.
I also had the beginnings of tranny issues (I never waited for them to materialize in any detail).
Honestly save for what I said above, I enjoyed it, for the most part. I have MANY issues with Mits service. Seems anyone with a heartbeat can work svs for Mits. That can't be good. And that is not an affront to those of you who are dedicated and hard working Mits svs personnel, most of my probs with svs are from mechs who 'can't duplicate the problem' and office jockeys who are dumb as asphalt.
The MS was getting a bit small for me and the family and I was (even after 2 years) still knocking my head on the door on the first entry of the day (I guess my old body takes more time to limber up for that first entry).
For what it's worth, I went to the top of the heap (or near it sizewise), got an 02 Suburban, LS 4wd. So far with 2k miles, I am happy to report that this massive beast is (in the words of March Madness' Dickie V), Awesome Baby.
And for the record the Burb has the same recirc ball steering that the MS had. So that ain't the problem. The Burb, is roomy (everywhere), quiet, smooth riding, and the economy for me (mpg) is not too off, I was getting around 17 now with the Burb, around 15, not too shabby for about 1500 more lbs.
Good luck to all of you who have them, I hope you never experience that damn vibration.
Mitsu. is adding two new suv's in about a year, as released under Auto.Com. The Montero and The Montero Sport will also be built. So the Sport stays! Yeah!!!
A Piece of the article:
Of the two new models, one will be a "small sport-utility," which is the U.S. version of its Airtrek sport-utility to compete with Honda Motor Co.'s CR-V and Toyota's RAV4, Gagnon said. The vehicle will be exported from Japan in August, he said.
The other will be a "car-based mid-sized sport-utility" that will compete with models such as Toyota Motor Corp.'s Highlander, to be produced at its plant in Illinois. The model will be released in early 2003, he said.
My sport reached 30,000 miles and I want to change the pads. Need to know if anyone has changed their pads... what tools are required? (If there are any special tools) and any helpful hints would be appreciated. Thanx Ed.
AT 34K I had my brake pads replaced by the dealer, hefty price tag close to $400 for front and back. My biggest fear is waiting just long enough to need rotors/calipers etc. repaired. The brakes weren't feeling right to me. Another issue I've had is the alignment. Just can't get away from pulling to the left or right. Now they tell me my tires are "scalloped" (uneven wear). But I've had them checked/balanced/aligned routinely per scheduled maintenance. Will I need to by new tires soon? If so, are there better brands I should be looking at? It'd be nice to get humpy tires, a little wider and nobbier if I do have to buy new ones. Any one with thoughts.
Did not need to turn the rotors, price front only around $100 maybe $150. WHile I no longer have the car, they told me the backs were fine and that the big charge would be when the rotors did need turning, as they were a (expletive deleted) to remove and replace -- maybe $300 for front only?
Mainly it became too small. I now have a Suburban (cavernous by comparison), but I also had the notorious front end shake at high speeds. And the more I read about it, and the more the dealerships and Mitsubishi ignored my issues, the more I knew it was dangerous and that I might be jeopardizing my family or others.
Finally, I became disenchanted with Mitsubishi (the Sport was my 3rd from them), in my area they have awful service and I end needing to complain about it in order to get reimbursed for warranty claims (this happened 2 times).
It was time to cut and run.
I hope you do not experience the front end shimmy and shake at speed, but if you do, document it and prepare for major stonewalling from the triple diamonds. By the way, I am told they do know that a problem exists, because they supposedly moved from recirc ball to rack and pinion steering in the hope that it might go away.
Just had my front brakes done at 30,000. The rears were fine. The front brakes on the Sport are ceramic. The rears are metal. The rears should last around 50,000 miles, depending on how much stop and go you do. I had the Brake Shop do mine at a cost of $145.00. The rotors did not need to be turned. The ceramic pads cost $90.00. The labor cost was $55.00. The Brake Shop has a lifetime warranty. Midas has a similiar program, but not quite as good. The Brake Shop told me if the rotors needed to be turned, they could do them on the vehicle. They had a machine that did not need to pull the rotors off the vehicle.
That is interesting, I hope I can remember that when my Suburban needs a brake job. I don't a 'brake shop' in my area, but despite that I assume a lifetime warranty on pads is as good as it gets anywhere.
How would one know if rotors were well turned if not taken off, and how could a machine get the the tolerances needed if they were not removed?
I hope that they can do as you say -- a real brakethrough sorry I had to do that, as it would save us consumers some real $$
Only some vehicles you can turn the rotors on the vehicle. Others you do have to pull off the rotors. They said the sport and most Toyota's they do not have to pull the rotors. I think it has to do with clearances of other parts. Works the same as if they pull the rotors off. On the lifetime warranty, the pads and labor would be at no cost, if that is all you needed done. Turning rotors and replacing calipers would cost you.
The key with the brake warrantee is to catch the pads by having them inspected prior to them wearing out the other braking components.
I do get shimmy, particularly at 40-50 mph. Not sure how dangerous it is but its wearisome on the arms - not that I mind the exercise. Originally, it was pulling to the right, so I had it aligned, it continued to pull and I was told it was due to the "crown" in the roads here in NE Massachusetts. Then there was the scalloping of the tires causing vibration - caused by what? I will go to the dealer in person and explain, get a credit, whatever. I have to admit, Danvers Mitsu is attentive, yet unable to solve my problem. Perhaps new tires, or trading in is the answer. Though I'd take a HUGE hit on the depreciation of a 2000 LS w/35K on it. Suggestions?
for you and your family (if that is a factor). I took a hit, but it was not as bad as I expected. I got a very generous trade and was not too upside down. I ate the difference and haved chalked it up to learning.
WHy would your wheels scallop? A good question, I'd say. I had my rotated every 6k miles -- and I included the spare in the rotation -- per the manual. Mine did not scallop or cup or anything.
The darn thing just shook like crazy -- to me anyway, at those speeds, a correction of the wheel the shake went away for a couple seconds then resumed.
This cannot be normal nor safe. From my perspective that is.
If you liek the truck and they can fix it and it does what you want keep it.
Comments
There was a tire comparison test in Automobile Magazine on a Mercedes SUV a few months ago. They picked the Yokohama's the best all around tire out of the 6 or 7 tested. Included Goodyear, Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelle, BF Goodrich, General, and a couple of others that I cannot remember. That was there choice on dry and wet pavement. Did not get into off-road stuff.
Personally, I think the tire is good, but I like Michelins better. Just have had great wear and durability from Michelin tires.
The Sport is a very smooth running vehicle. If you are a tall person, you will not fit well. The seats are raised up from the floor more than the most other SUV's in this class. Rear seat room is good. Better than most, although brochure specs do not show this. Compare to 4-Runner or Pathfinder and you will find out what I mean, even though specs show 4-Runner has more. Don't know where each manufacture measures from.
Pros: 3.5L Engine, frame, storage, seats, drivetrain.
Cons: Paint (chips easily), transmission (ok, smooth shifting, but not crisp), low head room, low resale, cheap bumpers, need rear spring helpers (installed air bags, work great).
Mention one other thing. If you settle on the Sport and are willing to buy used, there are some great deals out there. I could buy a 2000 LTD 4X4 with less than 15,000 miles for around $23,000. I think this is a screamin deal. Check around. Rental units are being auctioned off.
I am considering the 4Runner and Liberty along with the MS, I have never been to impressed by the Pathfinder. The Liberty seems like a great vehicle, but I just can't get past the small cargo area. I like the 4Runner, but it does seem like it is possible to get a similarly equipped MS for much less. The 4Runner was at the top of my list until I saw the recent safety reviews for the MS, it is rated better than the 4Runner now.
I keep my vehicles for a very long time, so I am not too worried about resale value. I just want a quality vehicle that will be dependable for a very long time. I have read that Mitsu initial quality is lower than Toyota, but 5 to 10 years down the road, they are about the same. I know Toyotas are supposed to be great for long term reliability, but I have a friend with a 92 Toyota truck that is literally falling apart with less than 90K miles.
The more I read about the MS, the more I like it. I will buy new since I do keep vehicles for so long.
I do mostly highway driving (25K/yr), and the vehicle consistently burns a quart of oil every 1K miles. I mentioned this to the M-dealer and he stated that this was normal. Anyone else have the same experience ? To say that I am NOT pleased with the vehicle would be an understatement. Since owning the vehicle (11) I've had the cam seals replaced, the rear main seal replaced, and the transmission rebuilt. Now the rear end whines and clunks. The dealer 60K check w/timing belt was $1,200.00. The only good part is thank heavens I got a 3yr-36K extended warranty with the vehicle. I can't wait to get rid of it and get a Toyota 4Runner!
i was hoping to get info on a steal on a sport. TMV loaded on LTD is 32,036 is that a possibility? what would you all here try to pay for one of those? Invoice $31,049
hopin for some help. gonna test drive this weekend.
First, there is an advertising charge that is not shown but referred to. Unfortunately, Mitsubishi charges around $550.00 on the Sport. You can try to negotiate that with the dealer, but he still has to pay it.
Second, there is a holdback dollars that the dealer gets back when he sells the vehicle. It is 2% of Base MSRP. LTD 4X4: 32,887 x 2% = 657.74.
Third, if there are any dealer installed options, like hitch, wind deflectors, etc., there will be an extra cost for these items. My dealer gave them to me at his cost.
Fourth, flooring interest charges are applied to the vehicle as soon as it arrives at the dealer.
With all this taken into consideration, I feel if you can negotiate a price 100 to 500 over dealer cost, you have a deal.
The TMV price listed, I feel, is at least 500 to high.
Another note. The Sport depreciates rapidly. The vehicles value will be around $10,000 less in two years. You best figure on keeping it for 5 years. Especially if you do not pay anything on it for the first year. Done that with my 2000 LTD Sport. Been a good vehicle. Wife loves it.
I checked oil. Level is fine. Anyone ever have this happen?
I hit a bird one day and bent the mast. The motor's still good but the mast won't move. The mast is only $45, so I am thinking of doing this myself.
Any help out there?
1.) Cupholder is absolutely rediculous and potentially dangerous since you can't see the radio while in use
2.) Changing oil is a nuisance - (2) skid plates need to be removed - 1 plate stripped all crappy bolts while pulling off - left off permanently
3.) Faint oil burning smell - no oil consumption but oil is black after 2000 miles - PLEASE TELL ME THAT MY WORST FEAR IS NOT A REALITY - that these 3.0L's burn oil for a living.
4.) Blew out a Yokohama after hitting a curb at only 5 MPH!!! What if I were off-road??
5.) Cheap spare tire winch - tire shop broke it after replacing the above.
6.) Annoying power antenna looks and sounds like something from a 1975 Lincoln - I doubt that it will last another 2 years.
7.) Lots of wind and road noise on the highway
8.) Buzzing 4WD shifter at highway speeds
9.) Erratic 4WD operation - on 1st snowy day had lots of trouble getting it to engage. Dealer checked - no problem found.
10.) Maintenance seems a little excessive - plugs,timing belts, brakes, fluids - all relatively costly operations.
With all that said - the truck looks so damned good! It's got a rugged but refined look that's unmatched by the competition.
The long and short of it is I would NOT recommend this vehicle to anyone simply because of the plethora of overall better choices out there. I'm sure I'll be trading this in before its exorbitantly priced 60K service.
Love to hear from fellow owners about above.
I have Yokohoma tires which have 40,000 + miles on them and living in Minnesota they go through the hot of hot and cold of cold including snow. Never a problem. Yokohoma is one of the better tires out there in my book. I will not replace B4 my lease it up.
I get oil changes done at the dealership. $25 is a little price to pay for my time.
SUV maintanence is always a little more. Work with your service advisor on what needs to be done and you will be surprised how fast the dollar bills go down.
No problem with oil burning or smell. No problem with road noise. No problem with power antenna except in the car wash I ripped one off. Opps. No problem with 4 wheel drive.
Now with the 2002 models coming with all wheel drive and no extra charge or loss in gas mileage it looks like I am into another this summer. They even look better.
Sorry, I thing you got a bad egg. These puppies last forever. To many stories to count. I work at a dealership.
NOTE: MSsquared (My initials are MS and the car I want is MS) (MS + MS = MS Squared!!
Have fun in your new MS squared....you should try to get that to be a specialized plate.
Anyhow, I thought I let you know a little information. On my 2000 LTD 4X4 Sport, the dash brake light would come on when I braked and off when I accelerated. Thought I had a bad sensor. Took it in, under warranty, and found that it was low on brake fluid, because the front brake pads were almost gone. Added brake fluid and problem went away. Now I have to replace the brake pads. Either going to do it myself or take to a brake shop that warranties them for as long as you own your vehicle. (Brake Shop)
I have just turned 27,000 miles. Been a great ride, thus far. Thought 27,000 miles was low for the pads to be gone. But I think it is because of the type of pad Mitsu uses. Made of a carbon fiber, I guess, that will cut down on brake squeal. Will upgrade to a better pad that should last longer.
You will know if it happens. Usually upon heavy acceleration, when it shifts, it will rev up and then pop into gear. I hear some Nissan Pathfinders are having a similar problem.
You can pull for as far as you want and not have any problems as long as you keep your speed under 65. Please note, that most trailer tires are rated for a speed at 65 mph tops. Towing any faster greatly improves your risk of a tire blow out. People do tow faster and they are a accident waiting to happen.
If you pull a lot, I recommend adding a transmission oil cooler. The problems that you can have, as with any vehicle, is the transmission heating up. Do not want to burn it up. There is a warning light that tells you when the transmission is running too hot. Also, you can add a engine oil cooler that will help protect the motor. Cost installed for each is usually under $200.00.
Another item you will want to add, as I did, is some type of rear spring helper. So not to have the body riding on the bump stops. I added Airlift 1000 air bags. They work great and cost around $80.00. Installed, around $150.00 total.
I live in Montana, with hilly roads and mountain passes. The 3.5 litre Sport does a remarkable job of towing. Just drive sensible when towing.
I've called the dealer that I bought it from but since it was a used car they have no records of the code.
I was then told that I would have to get the serial number off the back of the stereo and bring it to them to look it up. By the way, I was quoted $95 for them to perform this task.
On a small scale, this has the feel of some kind of scam.
One of the sales guy initially told me that all I would need is the VIN for the service department to look it up.
So, what's the deal here? Does anyone have any further insight about this.
Thanks in advance for your input.
I talked with my dealership, who are great, and they told me that the radio would have to be pulled to get the serial number and model number off the back of the radio in order to get back to Mitsu. to get code. Did not ask for a cost but you might even try an audio shop to pull it at a lesser cost.
Good Luck!
let me know
markw10
Originially I had believed 100% that it was tire related, after all this time, I am sure (at least for mine it was not.
I also had the beginnings of tranny issues (I never waited for them to materialize in any detail).
Honestly save for what I said above, I enjoyed it, for the most part. I have MANY issues with Mits service. Seems anyone with a heartbeat can work svs for Mits. That can't be good. And that is not an affront to those of you who are dedicated and hard working Mits svs personnel, most of my probs with svs are from mechs who 'can't duplicate the problem' and office jockeys who are dumb as asphalt.
The MS was getting a bit small for me and the family and I was (even after 2 years) still knocking my head on the door on the first entry of the day (I guess my old body takes more time to limber up for that first entry).
For what it's worth, I went to the top of the heap (or near it sizewise), got an 02 Suburban, LS 4wd. So far with 2k miles, I am happy to report that this massive beast is (in the words of March Madness' Dickie V), Awesome Baby.
And for the record the Burb has the same recirc ball steering that the MS had. So that ain't the problem. The Burb, is roomy (everywhere), quiet, smooth riding, and the economy for me (mpg) is not too off, I was getting around 17 now with the Burb, around 15, not too shabby for about 1500 more lbs.
Good luck to all of you who have them, I hope you never experience that damn vibration.
A Piece of the article:
Of the two new models, one will be a "small sport-utility," which is the U.S. version of its Airtrek sport-utility to compete with Honda Motor Co.'s CR-V and Toyota's RAV4, Gagnon said. The vehicle will be exported from Japan in August, he said.
The other will be a "car-based mid-sized sport-utility" that will compete with models such as Toyota Motor Corp.'s Highlander, to be produced at its plant in Illinois. The model will be released in early 2003, he said.
The brakes weren't feeling right to me. Another issue I've had is the alignment. Just can't get away from pulling to the left or right. Now they tell me my tires are "scalloped" (uneven wear). But I've had them checked/balanced/aligned routinely per scheduled maintenance. Will I need to by new tires soon? If so, are there better brands I should be looking at? It'd be nice to get humpy tires, a little wider and nobbier if I do have to buy new ones. Any one with thoughts.
Can't remember.
Why did you get rid of it?
Finally, I became disenchanted with Mitsubishi (the Sport was my 3rd from them), in my area they have awful service and I end needing to complain about it in order to get reimbursed for warranty claims (this happened 2 times).
It was time to cut and run.
I hope you do not experience the front end shimmy and shake at speed, but if you do, document it and prepare for major stonewalling from the triple diamonds. By the way, I am told they do know that a problem exists, because they supposedly moved from recirc ball to rack and pinion steering in the hope that it might go away.
Good luck
How would one know if rotors were well turned if not taken off, and how could a machine get the the tolerances needed if they were not removed?
I hope that they can do as you say -- a real brakethrough sorry I had to do that, as it would save us consumers some real $$
On the lifetime warranty, the pads and labor would be at no cost, if that is all you needed done. Turning rotors and replacing calipers would cost you.
I do get shimmy, particularly at 40-50 mph. Not sure how dangerous it is but its wearisome on the arms - not that I mind the exercise. Originally, it was pulling to the right, so I had it aligned, it continued to pull and I was told it was due to the "crown" in the roads here in NE Massachusetts. Then there was the scalloping of the tires causing vibration - caused by what? I will go to the dealer in person and explain, get a credit, whatever. I have to admit, Danvers Mitsu is attentive, yet unable to solve my problem. Perhaps new tires, or trading in is the answer. Though I'd take a HUGE hit on the depreciation of a 2000 LS w/35K on it. Suggestions?
WHy would your wheels scallop? A good question, I'd say. I had my rotated every 6k miles -- and I included the spare in the rotation -- per the manual. Mine did not scallop or cup or anything.
The darn thing just shook like crazy -- to me anyway, at those speeds, a correction of the wheel the shake went away for a couple seconds then resumed.
This cannot be normal nor safe. From my perspective that is.
If you liek the truck and they can fix it and it does what you want keep it.
If not, look around.
Good luck.