Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

lucg

Just wanted to let all the readers know that I
leased my Blazer 2 years ago. I put over 46K on it
already, and not ONE problem yet. The brakes are
still good! Unbelievable!! This is a great truck.
I recommend buying the Blazer. I am going to
purchase one soon.

richman98

I have a 1998 Blazer LS 2-door w/ almost 68K miles on it. About 6 months into my lease, the ignition wiring harness shorted out and left me dead on the road. A few months later, my alternator went out. Soon thereafter, it went out again. The recline levers have snapped off both the passenger and driver side seats. One during warranty, the driver side soon after (not the cheapest fix). Overall it's a good truck, I just hope the redesigned 2001 is a lot more solid like they claim to be.

sdc2

I had a 97 Blazer, put 55K miles on it with nary a problem. 6 months ago I traded it for a Trooper (needed more headroom). Just heard that the people who bought my old Blazer had the tranny go kablooie on them. That's a $2,000 headache I'm glad I don't have.

Just goes to show, 46K miles without a problem isn't necessarily a trend...

poisondartfrog

Tranny life may be shortened due to a design flaw with the ATF dipstick/seal. The defect is it doesn't seal out moisture, and with it positioned below the passenger windshield washer nozzle, moisture can get in the fluid. So without periodic fluid changes, the tranny life may be shortened. On my '97 Bravada, I had the dipstick and the dipstick tube replaced under warranty at 24K last year. I also changed the ATF and filter at 30K miles, and replaced it with Mobil 1 ATF, since it has better heat tolerance than the std. Dex-III fluid. Incidentally, I periodically pull my boat with it, and live in a hilly region, so I think the tranny gets taxed more than a "normal" highway SUV, for example.

No tranny problems, and the truck just turned 40K miles.

Oh yes, my alternator and the belt tensioner developed a squealing bearing at 25K miles, so they were replaced under warranty. My '93 Grand Prix had an alternator let go electrically at 36K miles.

My advice: if you own a GM, odds are good you'll replace an alternator at least once before 100K miles. Replace it with a remanufactured aftermarket (quality) alternator, NOT a GM re-man!

vlkohanski

Thanks for your helpful input, poisondartfrog. I need to squeeze better than 200K miles out of my 1990. At 130K so far. I managed to get 120K out of the alternator and the tranny is still going strong (knock on wood). I change the fluid somewhat regularly, but I'll take your advice and try the Mobil 1.

I'm going to push another six months on the front end, but it's shot. I need to do the whole works. The good thing is that the old models are easy to work on and parts are cheap. But if you can't do the work yourself, the Blazer is definitely a rather expensive truck to upkeep.

jetfixr2

If you put deep-tread knobbie tires on a Blazer (which I wouldn't recommend), would the resulting vibration tear up the trannie any more quickly than AT M+S tires? What's a good type for 50/50 paved road & gravel driving?

poisondartfrog

I'd be more worried about the bearings in the differential. I bet the crazy harmonics from the "knobby" tires on concrete/asphalt would accelerate bearing ball/race wear.

I'd check www.tirerack.com for an AT tire (Michelin & Dunlop come to mind). You probably want the LT rather than the P series tire - gives you better load capability (stiffer sidewall) and 1 or 2 more plys.

sandys2

I bought a used 1996 blazer last april 55.000 miles i also purchased the extenedted warrenty seems my tranmission had water in it and the warrenty will not cover it. ? why would i have water in my trans/

sandys2

but paying 2,350 for a new transmission

poisondartfrog

GM has a service bulletin about corrosion of the dipstick and corrosion of the dipstick tube. I had it on my '97 Bravada, which was fixed under the 3 yr./36K warranty. The fluid was also changed out (very iimportant).

It seems the seal on the top of the dipstick is poorly designed; it allows water to get into the tube, and thus, the transmission. The source of the water can be from the passenger windshield washer nozzle/plumbing, or the water leaking past the nozzle seal. The trans dipstick is located right below!

So it's two-fold - water drips into the tranny through the dipstick seal, and the rest of the water corrodes the outsie of the tube. Check the '97 Blazer forum for more instances of this problem.

I would fight the warranty company on this one. As a design flaw, you shouldn't pay to replace the tranny.

maggies285

Bought Blazer new in 10-98. Recliner mechanisms replaced 3 times, and adjusted, and "cannot detect problem" another 5. Design problem per rep, potmetal used. Failure on 2 door blazers and x-cab Chevy s10. This vehicle has been a nightmare, 35k miles, idler arms, trim, short in instrument panel, more than I care to remember. Pages of dealer visits-must have been one of those Monday or Friday vehicles !

packman2

I own a 97,,,and all of the controls and switches seem to be lit up ,,,all but my headlight switch,,,does the switch cover come off? I didn't try to take it apart,,It looks that there might be a micro bulb behind it...also I have a question,,my tires seem to lose air pressure,,I might have bad valve stems,, or is it a problem with these aluminum rims...

aaaamoore

I too, owned a 98 lemon blazer......it's not to late for you to file a lemon law claim! GM knows they produced alot of these bad blazers. I owned my 98 ZR2 for two years, 36 service visits, (generally unsuccessful service visits)....bad loaner vehicles, crappy treatment from reps at the 1-800, we have your money, we don't give a [non-permissible content removed] hotline( aka customer service). You don't have to live with the nightmare, although it took 2 years to return the lemon to GM,1GNCT18WXWK149605, I got my money back, recovered my attorney fees, and resumed a normal life instead of sitting at the dealership listening to lame excuses for my vehicle problems.

firemedic395

I have a '98 Blazer I leased new...last year as the temps changed, I was having problems with the battery draining overnite...nothing on...but it was dead in the morning...they told me the battery had a dead cell...i replaced the battery with a Diehard(instead of the cheap A/C Delco)...this year as it gets cold...same thing...its happened for the dealer when at the service dept. but they say they cant find anything draining it...well, SOMETHING obviously is...went back in today for the 5th time in a month...anyone else had any similar problems? everytime they say the battery and alt. check out ok and they cant find any drains on the system!!
Im ready to "lemon law" it!!!

firemedic395

Richman, read my posting..#13...is this what yours was doing before they found the wiring harness short?

vlkohanski

There is definitely a short. The trick will be in finding it. There are only about a million things that could cause it. I once had an old Honda that did that. Fortunately, it took two days to drain the battery and it rarely sat for two days. Good luck finding it. Does it have a block heater?

imatoolman

Hello
I was wondering if you could maybe help me out, my 1997 Blazer has a problem with its front wipers. The wipers work fine all the time except when we need them, they work almost all of the time but once in a while they go totally dead, including the washers. This has happened 5 times this year almost always when it starts to rain, I have been able to start the wipers by manually pulling on the arm from outside the vehicle and then they work fine, could this be the control module?
If it is the control module where is it located and what is the best way to replace it?
Thank You
Also is there a recall on this problem Thanks again

blazer1202

I HAVE A 96 BLAZER. LOVE IT TO DEATH, BUT YES I
HAVE A BUT IN THERE CHEVY. CHEVY NEEDS TO LEARN HO
TO MAKE A BLAZER CORRECT. I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE
ROAD AND MY TRUCK TEMP WHEN UP TO 260 AND IT IS
NORMALY AT ROUND 210(RIGHT) WELL I TOOK IT IN TO A
GOODYEAR, AND I WAS WATCHING THEY WORK ON IT. I
DECIDED TO CHECK MY RADIATOR AND GUESS WHAT I
FOUND. MUDD NO WATER JUST WAT MUDD!! SO PISSED OF
I CALLED CHEVY AND THEY SAID IT'S A COMMON
PROBLEM. HERE'S HOW IT HAPPENS. RADIATOR FUILD
NEEDS TO BE CHANGE EVERY 2YEAR. I SAID OK FINE, BUT YOU HAVE TO USE THE SAME LIKED OR FUILD EVERY TIME OR THIS WILL HAPPEN, UNLESS YOU GET A 19.95 BOTTLE OF CLEANER EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE FUILD (2YEARS)NOW HOW MANY PEOPLE KNEW THAT! AND HOW THE HELL AMI GOING TO TELL WHAT KIND(BRAND)SOMEONE PUT IN MY TRUCK IF I BROUGHT IT USED OR IF I GET A SHOP TO CHANGED IT. SO I HAD TO GET A NEW RADIATOR AND $368
CHEVY DEARLSHIP(JERKS) AND BUT BEFORE THAT CHEVY
SAID LETS TRY TO FLUSH IT x2 SO I PAID $222.03 TO
FLUSH IT TWICE AND THEN THEY TELL ME THAT IT NOT
GOING TO WORK, BUT I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE
FLUSHES.(JERKS)AND I NEED A NEW RADIATOR. AND THAT
$368 THAT THE COST OF THE PART NOT THE LABOR. I
HAVE HAD THE OTHER PROBLEMS THAT OTHER PEOPLE TALK
ABOUT TOO.DIPSTICK AND O2CIN AND WINDSHEILD WIPER
MOTOR, AND RUST UNDER THE SEAT. THE A/C DOESN'T
WORK AND I'M NOT FITING THAT UNTIL SUMMER I JUST
PAID $745 DOLLOR TO GET THE DAMN THING ON THE ROAD.I PUT OVER 3,000 DOLLORS INTOP MY TRUCK NOT IN REPLACING PARTS BUT MAKING IT A NICE
TRUCK,TINT,STERIO SYSTEM, REMOTE SARTER, RUNNING
BOARDS, AND EXHAUST AND MUCH MORE. I'M 20 YEARS OLD AND SPENT ALL THAT MONEY TO HAVE A NICE TRUCK ANDI'M STARTING TO THINK I SHOULD OF SPENT 16,000
DOLLORS ON A DIFFRENT SUV AND THEN PUT THE 3000 OR
SOME DOLLORS INTO IT.I LIKE THE LOOK OF THE BLAZER,BUT NOT THEN IT COMES OUT OF MY POCKET. THE
DEALER CALLED IT MISSIPPISSI MUDD IN MY RADIATOR. I LIVE IN VIRGINIA NOT THERE. IF ANYONE HAS HAD
PROBLEMS LIKE THIS PLEASE E-MAIL ME
@BRASNICK12@AOL.COM OR BLAZER1202@YAHOO.COM
WE CAN TALK ABOUT THE PROBLEMS WITH THE BALZERS
AND MAYBE SAVE SOME MONEY.

tug3

The problem with your wipers is going to be the motor itself. Just like the starte n a car, when it goes bad, it wont work, but if you apply power to it, and jar it, like tapping on it or forcing it to move, it will work. Once it stops, it depends on wether or not it stops on the "dead spot" if it will start working on its own next time.

89n98

I own 2 blazers. An 89 and a 98. The 89 has 140,000 on it and still runs strong. Beyond normal maintenance, I've only replaced the Battery, Alternator, and some throttle body gaskets.
On the other hand my 98 LS 4door has put me in the dealer waiting room a couple times. At a little under 10,000 miles I had it in to replace some axle bearings.
Just at 36,000 (ok a little over but the dealer was good to me) the alternator left me stranded in the grocery store parking lot.
Then at 39,000 after some highway driving the transmission would slip and shift really hard. Yep they rebuilt the trans. Luckily I did purchase the extended warranty for the drive train(still had a $250 deductable). I wish I would have gotten the full 60month warranty.
Now a few weeks ago and sitting at 45,000miles, Chicago got that 16inches of snow and I'm crawling to work pushing the 4x4 button and the back end is still coming around. NO 4WHEEL DRIVE!!!!! So I'm thinking its from the trans rebuild. Dealer comes back with "the battery wore away a vacuum hose for the 4x4 solenoid." But how can I complain when I leave the dealer and the bill is under $100?
Oh I forgot about the lumbar support that when I was adjusting popped and doesn't move anymore.
And what's up with the 95mph governer? Is someone really trying to corner one of these things at 100mph?
Don't get me wrong, I love this truck. I could go on and on about how this is a great truck, but what happened to reliability?

vlkohanski

89n98, I hear you. I've done what I call the "typical" repairs to my 1990. It's had a hard life and has held up unbelievably well (except of course for the paint job). It's nearing 140k and I'll be rebuilding the front suspension. Based on the roads it's been driven on for most of its life, I'm not about to complain. When my wife's Nissan crapped out (it WAS a piece of crap) we went to look at the 1999 Blazers, since our 1990 had held up so well. I was appalled at what they wanted to charge me 24K for. It didn't drive or handle as well as the 1990 and there were already rattles. I had also previously tested a used 1995 and wouldn't have given them 1/4 of what they were asking. It was possibly the most awful truck I'd ever driven. Thanks, but I'll just keep my 1990... possibly forever.

ryanbab

My mom has had an 87 and 2000 blazer

I have driven both probably have drove the 87 more than the 2000.

87 was a 2wd 2 door 2.7L factory ordered back in 1987. Truck was great first month there was a hose recall (we broke down and had to be towed) but never had a problem after that. It was only in for some minor rust fixing in the late 90's. Truck was solid and we sold it for $1500 early this past summer. I see this truck everyday at school and its still running with 120,000 some miles on it when we sold it.

2000 is an LT 4wd 4 door with about 11K miles. Not a bad suv. It has its pros (4wd, more gadgets,4 doors easier entry exit, sunroof, leather better engine 4.3) and its cons (not as solid seems weaker, doubt it will last 13+ years like the 87 has) over the 87 blazer. The 2000 has been in the shop 3 times. Twice for alignment which was corrected after about the first 2 months and last month a front diff seal was leaking which is now fixed.

I personally would take the strong feeling of the 87 and combine that with the 4wd, 4 dr, and gadgets of the 2000 and it would be a perfect truck.

89N98 i know what you were going through with the snow. I live in indiana and we got a bunch supposed to get more tonight. I think my silverado handles alot better over the blazer in snow (weight wise more than likely)

Ryan

sasquatch_2000

What to buy and seeking advice by sasquatch_2000

Looking at a Pewter 98 LS 4 Door with 40,000 miles on it. Dealer price $18,000. What is a good price to hit him with? What problems should I look for? Do I gain anything appreciable other than cosmetics by going to a '99? This one has the 5 spoke wheels with worn 235/70R15 tires. What are the biggest tires I can put on these? Can I get 245/75R15 or 255/75R15? How about 30X9.50 or 31X10.50 tires? Do I need a lift kit to mount these? Are lift kits available? I plan on doing some exploring this winter and summer, and want some good clearance. Also, anyone have experience with aftermarket header/exhaust/chip for power/mileage/reliability improvements? Thanks in advance.

flyinby

Look at my post #20 for some things to look for. My opinion, $18,000 is a bit much... I paid $14,000 for a '98 Red LS 4door w/ 36K on it over a year ago. Got my '98 Bravada for $18,000 in May '99 w/ 40K on it. I do not know of any "cosmetic" changes from '98 to '99 other than a few added body colors, the side mirrors are hindged differently, and the daytime running lights shut off when the turnsignals are on.

Good luck on the mod's, I have no idea. I'm just as happy when my two run

sasquatch_2000

"When my two run"? That seems to be the sentiment about Chevys and sometimes JEEPs. I think I am starting to lean towards a Pathfinder, XTerra, or Trooper. Thanks for the words.

lhidalgo

I have a 92 S10 Blazer (Tahoe) 4.3 liter engine that developed a bad oil leak. It's leaking from the "area" where the oil filter usually screws into the block next to the oil pan. I say usually because my oil filter is up near the radiator and is connected by two hoses to an "adapter" that is down below next to the oil pan. Does anyone know what this adapter is or how I can find out more info on this, such as how to replace or repair? thanks much,

drew_

You may also want to post your message above in the Chevy Blazer - Topic consolidation discussion topic and the Maintenance & Repair message board.

Good luck!

Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards

dashriprock1

I am looking at buying a 2001 2door 4X4 Blazer and I can not find any crash test info on anything past 98. Would anyone know how they handle on the road? I am not concerned with a bumpy ride, but what I would like to find out is if it is tippy. The 97 and 98 reviews made reference to taking it easy in the turns but that was before the new body style came into effect. Any info would be helpful

heng

I think they are better than the minivan I had. And no, the minivan did not have worn out shocks. And with the premium Bilstein shocks they do not have a bumpy ride. In fact, the body-on-frame construction actually is smoother riding than the unibody construction of a minivan. It isolates road texture and other small stuff better.

Make no mistake, SUVs are not to be driven like sport cars, or sporty sedans for that matter.

depawl

My 98 Jimmy with 36k miles gives off a burning smell from underneath, in the rear end. Took it to the dealer and they said the rear brakes were seized. Replaced everything for $900. Said it was 3 months over warranty.I still have the smell, dealer can't find anything wrong. It's worse after I wash the truck or when the roads are wet.
Any help?
Thanks.

mrswans

I have a 2000 Blazer and I'm trying to program my remotes, I just bought a third one. I found the steps below and they seem to work until I get to step #7. At this point none of the remotes respond. Am I missing something? Are there any web sites or newsgroups that might be able to help me with this?

Thanks,
Mike
_____________________________________________

(1) With driver door closed, hold down power unlock button on door panel (and hold down until step #6)
(2) Turn ignition switch on
(3) Turn ignition switch off
(4) Turn ignition switch on
(5) Turn ignition switch off
(6) Release power door unlock on door panel; the remote receiver will respond by locking the doors and then unlocking them.
(7) Hold down the lock and unlock button on the remote transmitter until the receiver responds by locking and then unlocking the doors (about 7 seconds typically).
(8) Repeat step #7 for each additional transmitter that is to be used with the vehicle
(9) Turn ignition switch on to exit transmitter programming mode. Note that previously programmed transmitters will be deactivated after the programming procedure.

rolling1

I have a 2000 blazer it's a ls 2wd.We've only put 9000 miles on it.I have taken it to the dealer to many times for this every time they say it's a bad pcv valve.Plus my front end pops.I've owned chevys b4 and I've never had any problems.Last month I bought a 2001 Montero sport and I feel alot better.I will probably trade the blazer this year for a 4runner.

bonkrz

I have a 1995 Blazer LT. Loaded her up at the time. Most unreliable brakes I have ever experienced. Electrical system also bad. Have 50,000 miles on it...in mint condition and already ordered another SUV. I would never normally purchase another car within 5 years, especially with this low mileage and MINT condition. BUT...It's garbage. Braking is completely unreliable and has had two recalls. If you hit just a slight dip...pebble...bump while applying brakes...you hear the anti-lock kick in...and GLIDE...baby...GLIDE. Pedal hits the floor...and no more brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls. OPERATE AS DESIGNED is all they keep saying. Designed to hit another car...maybe. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.

In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.

knokes

I have a 93 S-10 4WD Blazer. Purchased used at 75K. Within 3 months the intake manifold gasket had to be replaced and it has been a downhill slide ever since. Alternator, distributor, ignition control module, ignition coil, MAP sensor, EGR valve, etc. In January of this year, with snow on the ground, I discovered that it would not go into 4WD. Dealership said the 4WD control module was bad & it would cost $400+ to fix. I said I could live without it. Recently it began once again (a recurring problem) not wanting to start, or dying while driving or at idle (trust me, it wasn't picky).Took it to dealership again. Came back to find that they had charged me $102 to change the fuel filter and run cleaner thru the fuel injectors, said if that didnt fix it, it might be the starter & that would be $260+. It died in the parking lot at work that evening. Fed up with the dealership, took to another mechanic. Replaced starter. Truck would start, but again, die while driving or at idle. In tracking the wiring, he discovered that a sensor wire had been pinched in a bolt on the intake manifold and had worn and was shorting. Didn't fix the running problem, but fixed the 4WD! Not finding anything obviously wrong, he has now removed the security system, replaced the ignition control module and pick-up line (which wasn't replaced when the dealership replaced the ign control module) and thinks that may fix it. Any ideas? Any recourse as all these things seem somewhat related and the dealership has screwed up more than they have fixed. Similar problems? If I ever get it running I might drive it off a cliff. If not, I'll just push it!

mom25

I need to trade in my 1993 Explorer. Only 60,000 miles but many problems. I've been the only owner for 8 years. Just looked at a 1998 Jimmy SLT with 37,800 miles. Seems nice and clean. Dealer wants $16,500. Is this a good buy? Anything special I need to know about this car? Thanks! I need a very reliable vehicle.

radcliff3

I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy 4wd SLE with 183k miles. It has been in the shop 4 times in the last 2 weeks for the same problem. The SES light comes on and the idle becomes very rough. When this happens you lose the power brakes. Each time there has been carbon build up in the EGR valve. My current mechanic, whom I have been using for 11 years, told me there was carbon build up, they cleaned it and the truck ran fine for about 100 miles and started again. Took the truck back and they cleaned it again. We left for vacation the next day it happened again. I called my mechanic and he said to take it to a GMC dealership, and he would reimburse me for all costs. The dealership replaced the EGR valve and the computer. Drove the truck for about 150 miles and it happened again, took it back to the dealership and they cleaned the EGR valve. On they way home, we made it about 700 miles and it started happening again. The truck is now sitting on the carport waiting for AAA to take to the local dealership to have the warranty work done. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this continues to happen? By the way, the did clean the fuel injectors twice in the last 2 weeks. I really love my truck, but can't continue to have to take it to the shop every 100 or so miles. I would purchase another GMC truck in a heart beat since this is the only real problem I have had with the truck.

ang7

I have a 2000 Jimmy that hasn't had any problems. But, it sometimes makes a banging noise that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. It shifts very smoothly when accelerating, but if I let off the gas while building rpm it will bang. For example, if I'm accelerating in 2nd or 3rd gear and the person in front of me puts the brakes on I'll let up on the gas to apply the brakes and it will bang. The service tech. at the dealership said he didn't know what it was but it could be the torque converter. Could that be the answer?

bmorgan5

I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: gmcoilline@hotmail.com I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

Thanks,
Brandon Morgan

crod59701

After 25 yrs. of Japanese vehicles, my husband convinced me to "Buy American." So bought a brand new fully loaded 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT. It worked pretty well for about 25,000 miles. Service engine soon light would come on periodically. The manual referenced "emissions", so basically ignored it as it would usually go off in a day or two. Well, put $2000 transmission in at 45,000 miles. New thermostat and fan belt around 50,000 miles. The fuel pump ($650) went out at 51,000 miles in rush hour traffic on a busy interstate. That was real fun!!! Recently had the windshield washer problem someone else mentioned. New wiper motor, but also found rear differential leaking so that was corrected at the same time. Recently moved from Washington to Montana in winter snowstorm over three mountain passes. The four-wheel drive worked over the first pass. Took it into the dealer in MT and they said it needs a new "encoder" - $345 just for the part.

Can someone tell me if there is any hope of a recall on the encoder problem? Another message referenced other people having problems with the 4WD.

I can't get rid of this vehicle soon enough. Buy American again? Maybe, but not Chevy or GMC.

kiki4512

My husband was recently in a rollover accident in a 96 Chevy Blazer The police report states that he went end over end 1 1/2 times and then continued to roll 6 more times before coming to a rest. It is a wonder to me how he lived! He walked away from the accident with only a scrape on his head. I am grateful that we choose the Blazer and am Now looking at the newer Blazer.

stever

Wow, scary. Glad he's ok. I assume he was wearing his seat belt? What happened anyway (or does he remember)?

Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

vossrl

Leak is coming from the seals between that casting you are looking at (connection for remote mounted filter) and the block. With age and heat the seals get hard and then leak. Good thing is they are cheap to buy at your Chevy dealer. Bad thing is they are hard to replace. Two bolts hold the thing in place and are not hard to get out. getting your hand up there to replace seals and reinstall is tough. I think I had to drop the front drive shaft to get my back in place.

vossrl

I struggled for a long time with my 92 Blazer with Throttle body injection (Z code engine). Rough idle, surging at low throttle settings, stumble under initial acceleration. Diagnosing the SES codes led to EGR valve. I cleaned then replaced the EGR. Turned out the problem was bad throttle position sensor on side of throttle body - tricks computer into misreading throttle setting and misreading exhaust gas condition. Changed it and all was well.

vossrl

With 182K miles, I just parked and put a "for sale" sign in window of my 92 Blazer 4dr Sport. Put on lots of miles with no major problems. Normal replacement stuff like shocks, exhaust, lots of brake pads. Other stuff that others have mentioned - crossmember bushings, EGR "gremlins", heater core. The thing always started and ran strong. Always sure-footed in the snow here in northern IL. BTW, put at least 50k miles on Michelin XC LT4's and have agood 10K left - great tires. Just bought 2000 Diamond Edition Jimmy with 5000 miles (guy traded for a new Envoy) and look forward to many more happy GM SUV years.

bmorgan5

I am going to repost this. I didn't get much of a response. I guess I need to post this in other message boards. If anyone would like to pass this on to other boards, please feel free. The email address is there and I have received a few responses, but not like I had hoped.

gmcoilline@hotmail.com

Original message:
I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: gmcoilline@hotmail.com I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

Thanks,

Brandon Morgan
'95 Jimmy

jimnova

Only 40 miles to the house and the Service Engine light appears for the fist time in my 6 years of ownership. After the semi-tempory hypnotic shock wore off... the problems began. The gauges all checked out good, but the idling became erratic with a touch of the old typical loss of power. I manage to creep into the driveway.

The mechanic told me that the EGR valve needs to be replaced, ok. fine. Then he hands me the estimate. $400+ to replace and install (oh and this included the system check for $78.00 what a deal...NOT). Not today, I told him and had him slap it back together. I wanted a second opinion before jumping into the EGR nightmare that seems common in the Jimmy and Blazer models. I drove away and the SES light was off, nice. The vehicle was running good and everthing seemed o.k.

Well, it has been driven 400 miles since then and everythings appears to be fine. My guess is that the mechanic in the process of taking out the EGR valve nocked out some build up or something. He then reset the computer and presto, wamo good as new. I still feel sceptical though and wonder if this is just a tempory fix (it probably is who are we trying to kid here). Anyways I just thought I add this to the lists of SES and EGR stories and chalk this one up for the good guys (that if there is a good side). The Jimmy has been good to me other than this. With 137,000 miles it still strong and has alot left to offer, I hope. Hang tuff everyone and don't let the man get ya down...peace out.

michaelm11

My wife and I purchased a 1998 Blazer LT with only 26,000 on it in October of 2000. I am very impressed with the ride and handle of this truck. It rides just as nice as my parents Cadillac Eldorado.

michaelm11

I took my 1998 Blazer LT into the dealership to get a routine oil change, replace the master control window unit switch (pre-ordered) and to check the security light that periodically came on. I dropped my car off at 7:00AM and this is where the adventure begins. At 1:30PM I got a call from the service manager and he told me that the ignition switch was bad. It was causing the security light to come on. I told him to go ahead and fix it, and I would be in later to pick up the truck. My wife and I purchased an extended warranty. The warranty sat on finance departments desk for a months and was never sent in to the main office. Oh, I forgot to mention that this dealership changes finance managers as often as the sun goes up and down. They have changed personel five times in that department since October of 2000, when we bought the truck. So know one knows what the **** the other person that left has done. As we were getting that extended warranty contract straightened out, the dealership would not honor the price we purchased the warranty for.(We had the contract and the receipt.) They wanted us to pay $400 more dollars or take a lower warranty for the price we paid. Even the General Manager would not honor what his dealership had in writing. This dealership is owned by AUTONATION, and after I asked for the phone number for the district office my contract suddenly appeared. Everyone apologized, but I was so mad I did not care to even talk to anyone at the dealership. THREE hours later and almost blowing my top, I had the contract that I paid for. Oh by the way, I did call the district office and talked to the office of the district VP. They were very apologetic and said they would take CARE of this bad service at this dealership.

poisondartfrog

So what you are really saying is Horizon Chevrolet needs to take some customer satisfaction training at their near-by Lexus dealer??? *lol*

That's really BAD service... my Olds dealer for my '97 Bravada has been much better... maybe it is time for a different dealer?

hankjk

I just purchased a new jimmy & was offered an extended warranty for 6 yrs for $1200 Is this the going rate or can I negotiate a much better price from gm? Where can I get some info on warranty prices & different ones available thru some 3 party or am I better off sticking with the gm plan if I can get a better deal? Any advice on weather or not to take an extended warranty would be appreciated (this is my first 4wd)
THANKS IN ADVANCE HANK

keith24

oil cooler lines fail? My wife's '98 Blazer gave up the ghost yesterday. Luckily, we didn't run it dry of oil. It just leaked all over the driveway. I crawled up under it to find the source of the leak, and deduced that it was the metal (?) portion of the high-pressure oil cooler line. Looks like it had burst right at the seam. When we started it up, I could see where the seam gave way.

Why did this happen? I keep a close eye on the oil pressure & everything, and it never got crazy high. Hopefully, it was just a defective high-pressure hose. Otherwise, Mr. Chevrolet's going to have to give me a heckuva good reason to keep it. Thankfully, its still under warranty.